NOCO Boost GBX45 Repair
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 มี.ค. 2023
- Diagnosis, disassembly, and simple repair for NOCO GBX series battery boosters that won't turn on. No lights, non-responsive, no charge input, no boost output, bricked!
Here's the meter I use: amzn.to/3W4qnbI - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
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Thank for your video, I can see some relays in the video on the (-) side so it gave me the idea that you can also do this without opening the noco. I did it and it worked.
Just connect a USB wire to the USB OUTPUT port on the noco then clip the (-)9V to the other side on the outer metal. Then connect the (+) to the red car jumper cable. 9V battery or PSU
disconnect it and then put the USBC charger in.
it might take a few attempts if the charger LED goes red next to the usb c port then it needs longer on the 9V. if it stays off and the battery health light flashes red then its worked. =)
Very clever! I like that idea!
To anyone reading this comment and looking for a bit more info: I opened the NOCO so that I could get to the negative lead that goes direct to the battery. But the cool thing in this comment is that the USB interface gives you direct access to the negative side of the battery too! So at very least, you can take a measurement, but if you're careful you can also input a charge direct to the battery. You won't be going through the USB charge controller, you'll just be using the negative connection which is present on the USB port. Genius!
Hi, would this method work with a 12v battery as well, or is that too much voltage?
@@Cobra-sy3sv 12V isn't too much, but you'll need some means of limiting current. It's not like charging a lead acid car battery, Lithium has low internal resistance, so it doesn't self-regulate. If you were to hook up a car battery, the lithium cells would suck up amps way way too fast!
Thanks for sharing this! Instead of a 9v battery I used an old 12V 1A power supply for an old router. I connected it to the noco for maybe 2 mins. After that it was enough to not give the red blinking light when connected to a USB C charger.
@@carjason19 Great solution!
i just wanted to extend a thanks..you inspired me :) :).. mine is 9 months old and used once to test, put it away fully charged and went back to it 7 months later again to test and fully charge again, and it was dead.. as you described..
i was reluctant to open it up thinking it was full of epoxy due to the weight of it, but i did and got it back up and running..
also.. the back cover is taped onto the battery with double sided tape so it would just unstick and allow for full access, i just slipped a small screwdriver up into the cover between the battery and cover and it just popped off....
I dont own a Noco and decided to pick up a fanttik instead . I enjoyed the video because you helped other folks solving a issue. Great video and clear and knowledgeable.
Your video motivated me to buy the benchtop power supply I had already been eyeing. $60-70 PSU saved me from buying another $100-150 jump pack. The NOCO was super dead and failed to be revived by the 12V car outlet quick-charger. It's back in business and has probably been used a dozen times since. Bonus points for the PSU having already seen use bench-testing components and circuits since the NOCO repair. Big ups for fixing stuff rather than tossing.
That's great! Good going!
I just posted a video detailing how I built mine from an ATX power supply. I know you already bought one, but thought you might be interested!
@@colindgrant I'll definitely check it out. Especially since I just dove into PC building this past year as well. So it'll be neat to see. Cheers for the comment/content
Thank you for this excellent no nonsense video. Very clear methodology and instructions!
Thank you for your clear and great video, I have saved my booster by following your method, thank you again
Hi Colin,
This was a great video and informative. You explained the process very well.
Would you consider sharing how made the bench power supply with LED display and InLine meter w/LED display?
Excellent video, thank you! So the key here is NOT to let the internal batteries discharge to a low level where you need to do this.
Exactly!!!
So charge at 1/2 way point is what I've been seening and understanding from different videos.
I think this apply to anything with a lithium Ion Battery such as solar lights with no BMS chip (battery management system)
I’ve rescued several devices with internal batteries using this same approach, the most recent is a Phillips razor.
I also have a GBX75 and will go out and charge it right now while I’m thinking about it! I used it to boost my neighbor’s car a couple months ago and didn’t charge it after.
Why don’t they fix the issue instead of making the consumer do this nonsense. Ridiculous
Thank you for the video
I used lipo charger it working now
Thank you so much, this worked for my exact same battery when it was totally dead. I didn't know what to do, again thanks!
Thanks for the video! I was able to use my rc lipo charger to bring my noco back to life.
Which Noco model did you revive?
where do I get that inline meter?
Can I ask what charger you used to charge the battery?
would have liked to see info on your testing instruments , like that one that showed charge info.
It's made by AVHzY
How long did the GBX45 sit in order to discharge? Also did you try a USB-C Power Delivery source to try to charge it? This may be important since they provide up to 20 Volts to charge the GBX series.
Definitely used USB-C power delivery. That's what the MacBook charger is all about. And yes, the maximum 60W fast charge comes from USB-PD 20V@3A.
I don't know what discharged it. But I have a feeling it was left in the 'override' mode, since that would disable the normal BMS protection features.
Hi, thanks for this video. I'm considering about buying this booster. If I know, it hasn't direct 12V out (for 12V devices). Can you see there any possibility how to get from it 12V (about 10 - 15 A) for this use, for example longtime use of manual override mode and conect 12V device to clamps out? (Better with some fuse ofcourse) Or some DIY hack?
Thanks 🙂
I think the override mode will do what you want. It just directly connects the battery pack to the clamps with no protections. You'll get 12-16 volts and there's no timeout that I'm aware of.
@@colindgrant thank you 🙂
Thanks for the Video Colin, I’ve heard that if you use the 12V Car accessory port to charge the NOCO GBX series when the battery is too low for USB charging that it will come back to life after 15 mins.
Have you tried that?
I don't see why that would work. You're still powering through the USB-C interface, so I would assume you would hit the same internal PD charge controller limitations. I have read that as well but never tried it.
@@colindgrant I’m not sure why it would work, but that’s what some people who work at NOCO were telling customers.
I’ve heard the same thing. That is what Noco has stated also regarding this issue.
That info will potentially keep my GB40 working nicely, Thanks for the Upload :)
Would you be able to fix my 24 V mine won’t get past the first red line
How long did you have the battery hooked up to your external power source before hooking it up to a USB C charger. I have 2 of these with this problem. 1 has 5.57v and the other has 4.39v.
Time isn't so important as voltage. You'll want to *slow* charge the pack up to 12V+.
Nice video.
Would like to check if I can fix the GB40 with the same method?
Thanks. It should be the same process, I just don't know if they have 3s or 4s battery packs inside. You'd have to figure that out. Or maybe somebody reading this knows?
So... In between those 2 negative terminals on that little board, is the BMS. Right?
Yes. A high current relay that is controlled by a Battery Management/Monitoring System.
It doesn't look like the BMS does any balancing, it just looks out for maximum and minimum voltages on any of the cells.
You made the power supply yourself using PC power supply ? looks cool
Yes I did. I used a DPH5005 50V 5A buck boost converter, powered off of the 12V rail inside of an ATX power supply (that I pulled out of an e-waste bin)! It was a fun project.
have you or anyone tried to jump start anything with it afterwards?
Yes I have jump started a midsize SUV and also used it to crank a utility vehicle that lost its fuel prime, for about 30 seconds straight.
Mine something just burned out in boost mode - they say they don’t recommend you use boost mode… I would concur!
There isn't actually any boost mode. The battery is either connected to the clamps or not. If you're talking about the override, that is a feature of the product. It's fine to use if you know what you're doing, and follow instructions.
Is the older version better?
I only have experience with a few of them.
The GB40 is USB-A/Micro only, so it doesn't charge up as quickly. The GBX45 and GBX55 are nearly identical inside, with different sized pouch cells, and they have USB-C in/out as well as USB-A out. So I like the GBX series.
@@colindgrant Thank you. I wish I could use a memory saver with those.
Why should I have to fix this thing? I just bought one on Amazon. I'll send it back.
Damn...I should of bought the 2year warranty..
Try charging with a 65W USB-C fast charger before taking it apart
I used a 140W USB-PD (Power Delivery) capable charger. I was able to measure it providing 60W charge power once the unit was fixed. Prior to taking things apart, no current would flow from any charger, whether old or new, regardless of wattage. Do you know something I don't?
@@colindgrant NOCO support recommended trying a fast charger
@@DavidK-uv8oe yeah, that's what I used. I was able to measure the actual current flow, and there was next to none, regardless of charger used.
I tried that did not work
This could void the warranty
LOL, way passed that point
idk somone in NOCO have to know this "issue" and provide a solution wth
From a business standpoint, I get why they design them this way. They have to ensure an extremely high degree of safety.
Open it up there’s a yellow and a black wire marked on the circuit board positive and negative expose some wire and connect it to a Dewalt battery
Do not do that. You have no idea how much current that DeWalt battery can dump into those tiny wires in certain circumstances. Easily over 100 amps, from a 5S battery pack while the NOCO is a 4S pack. And DeWalt is the worst choice of all power tool batteries to use because they are unregulated (DeWalt puts the battery smarts in the tool, everyone else puts it in the battery). I have no doubt it worked for you, but it's it great way to melt wires or much worse. A 12V wall adapter would at least limit the current and the voltage. Lastly there's no reason to expose wire, or to use the yellow wire, when you've got access to the heavy duty red and black lines direct to the pack.
I'm a safety 3rd kind of guy, but this is really dangerous advice. Please don't follow it.
So it's a bad idea to buy this brand
Works great if you keep it charged.
NONE of this GBX are worth 💩💩💩💩💩💩, GB much better, the newer type are junk 👌👌👌👌👌👌👌👌
Why do you say that?
@@gonzchi all the GBX are the ones with big problems, the older GB dont have so many problems.
GB are equally useless, I had two GB70s given to me to fix. SOSfixElectronics has also got numerous videos where he's fixed various knackered GB series units.
I did some research and found that the GBX were supposed to be good. Got a GBX55 for myself and convinced others to buy GBX45's. Used it a few times, and charged it for a trip. 2 weeks later - with no use - it wouldn't take a charge. I bought it from Amazon open box, so no warranty for me. I then found videos saying that the GBX series isn't good. I got an older model (refurbished) GB70. Used it a few times, and 8 months later, it shows charged, but when I hook it to a battery (several different batteries), the charge indicator drops to one light. The error light isn't on, and the override doesn't help. NoCo said if it does that in less than 10 minutes, it's bad. I bought it refurbished, so I took the risk and now it's my problem. I'm debating sending these to SOSfixElectronics mentioned below. I opened the GBX, charged the battery with a Noco battery tender, and no luck.
For the price of these things (albeit I bought open box/refurbished), they should work longer than 3-9 months.
looks like the low voltage protection shuts off and keeps it off. really stupid of them.....or just really good marketing.
I think it's a safety thing. If a battery goes below a certain level, NOCO can't be 100% certain that it is safe to recharge. The battery manufacturers specify max depth of discharge. They're fine to recharge 'manually' like I did (slowly, careful monitoring, not on an airplane)! But NOCO probably considered the cost of developing a more advanced charging BMS that can handle every conceivable scenario, then considered potential liability, and decided it to just have it self-brick. Most of the power tool battery systems are like this too. I've broken down dozens of them, and there is usually just one low cell. It's a shame so many good cells get thrown away as a result.