I know this guy probably knows his stuff but I listen to his rambling then try to repeat in my mind what he said. All I can recall is just buy my stuff.
I had bought 2 lbs of humic powder. I mix 8oz per gal and apply 1oz per 1k. So I get a TON of humic concentrate that goes a long way. I then put that in combo with some sea kelp and have a nice cheap effective spray to put down.
Honestly, wouldn't a 100% water soluble humic acid powder pretty much be the same as the liquid though? Humic acid powder is different than granular humic. I believe I have been told it is already combined (chemically reacted in this case?) with a potassium ion. I know of at least two vendors (that I consider reasonably well respected) selling 100% water soluble humic powder. I've also been told it can't be completely soluble without having this reaction with a potassium ion already. I believe I read an article about reactions with NH4 as well. EDIT: You really need to decipher between granular and powder. The powders have been reacted, precipitated, dried and can will be re-dissolved into an actual solution (not a mixture).
Too bad GCF can't ship to Canada, was so excited to receive it when I ordered it form your store today, only to get an e-mail from the store saying GCF does not ship to Canada. Oh well, we can't always get what we want, and my neghbours don't take of their lawns anyway so it's pretty easy to dominate.
@@Pelley4560 If your interested in Humic products in Canada please feel free to contact us at SHAC Solutions Inc. we have been in the humic market for 30 years now. Our humics are much more than just humics were not bound by metal Ions like all these other humic products. We have hydrogen bonded our humics and you maybe need to use 1-2 litres per acre. For lawns we suggest 500ml per 2500ft2
So, applying granular that’s X% and a liquid that is also X%... and it’s all about application rate... Wouldn’t I need to apply the same amount of each by weight? Or are you saying X% as a liquid is more efficacious than X% as a granular such as Andersons DG?
Hi John ... several videos out on TH-cam RE: mixing some humic granular with water and spraying onto the lawn as it disintegrates. When you say “react” the humic, how much time on average are you doing this before you bottle up a finished product? I’m assuming it’s not once & done, but it takes some time.
Milan Jurich here what I would say: As far as I know, Humic DG is raw leonardite and lignosulfanate. That material is used as a binder and a dispersing agent. Their patents are on the release of the material, not the lignosulfanate itself. I would state it simply like this, the low rate of that material is 44lbs per acre and at 70% HA, you would think you’d see incredible responses in soil, what you see is more efficient use of fertilizer because of the carbon content. Many HA producers like myself would say liquid over granular or powder for all things growing or about to grow. Powder or raw material for field prep or major soil remediation when tillage is involved and the need is high. Humic added to any program will make a difference in any form, but the process may be slower depending on which route you go.
Lawncology thx for the info. Just applied Humic12 and Air8 this afternoon to help work on the “clay” soil. Very surprised at how nicely it went down with a hose end sprayer. No smell ... just a nice brown color painting the turf. 👍
I've definitely seen an improvement using the N-ext Humic line. I am curious on your take on the use of some of the products on sandy soils. I live basically half mile inland from the ocean here in NJ and have 98% sandy as my soil type. I've read a ton of research and a lot of people seem to be of the opinion that Air8 (and things like it) is something to be avoided when you have sandy soil to that level. Curious if you have any other recommendations for that type of soil besides just "KEEP POURING THAT HUMIC OUT" which has basically been what I've done all year. RGS and Humic have shown some great results so far. As has the foliar MicroGreen apps. Also, any chance of getting 2.5gal jugs of MicroGreen/RGS through Allyn or Pete? The 1gal packs are just a bit short on my property size for a full year. I figured the 2.5Gal would be perfect for around 2 years worth of product.
Great Vid, I had those same questions as well. Makes more since to apply liquid in a more concentrated % of Humic/Fulvic as a basic rule Liquid is a much better bang for your buck especially for the Home Owner/DIY'r. Thanks for sharing John.
Can you explain why? He mentions liquid Humic acid is more 'available' than dry. And mentions that the Humic acids have been 'reacted' into the solution. However, he doesn't mention what specifically this reaction is. There are Humic acid powders on the market which are water soluble in a matter of seconds to a minute of stirring/agitating. i have been told this is due to a reaction with a potassium ion. Is this the same reaction he is speaking of? If soluble powder is cheaper (which it definitely is), why is liquid more bang for your buck. He seems to be only discussing Liquid vs. Granular/non-soluble powder, if I am understanding correctly. I would genuinely like to understand if there is a difference between 100% soluble (if it truly exists) Humic (or Fulvic) acid powder and liquid Humic acid that are currently on the market. Best I can tell, they are either a) the same, or b) he is claiming that they are not truly water soluble/not forming a solution (simply a suspension). The 'reaction making it more available to the soil/nutrients' does not make sense to me based on discussions with other suppliers. The one Humic acid powder vendor I have talked to about this states that their powder has been reacted with a potassium ion in order to make it soluble. I am curious if this counts as the 'reaction' he mentions in this video or if there is something more special about the reaction taking place. I want to know what this reaction is that he speaks of to make it more available vs. the reaction powder vendors are using to make Humic soluble. How are they different and why that applies.
Go check out Grass Factor (Matt Martin) last Live show. Pretty sure he explains your exact question and answers it fully in his last show, but could have been the one before. From my understanding is power fomula Humic/Fullvic can be just as good as long as it is processed correctly. i.e it needs to reacted the same why John does with his but then dried out to power fomula than added to water, etc., its going to depend on who is maufacturing it and how their process is staged for reaction. If the power your a refering to does not explain their process chances are they are cuting corners to save $$$. I believe John P did a vid a while back on his 3 stage process and filteration, but you cannot expect him to give away all his secrets! My thoughts for what they are worth!.
Thanks. I will look for this video. It is not that I don't trust anyone. I just like to have a good understanding of things before making a purchasing decision. Especially if I am knowingly choosing a more expensive product.
Yeah I get it! I stick with GCF products as they have a lot of University Studies behind them and John is also open to the community for questions and answers. I appreciate that and I am willing to pay a little more for that comfort!
Watched the one where he talked with John P. There was some discussion about Humic DG (which is a granular not a soluble powder, not to mention I feel like he described it inaccurately) but nothing regarding soluble powders. It's that right one? Or is it another Live Stream?
I’ve been trying to find a solution to prevent the dog spots in my yard that I’ve heard are caused by the sodium in the urine. My thought has been to apply something that could tend to lower the Ph level of the soil to counteract the sodium generally. With the ash in the solid form of the Humate, do you think that would be an effective method to try if I apply it regularly? Could I get the same benefit (if my theory is correct) by applying the liquid form? Or would that even be a reasonable course of action? Thanks!
In farming I look at it differently. If I am preparing a pasture for reseeding then granular leonardite and rock phosphate mean I don't have to resupplement for years. Of course your business model can't be that way, it would not make sense, you need to sell product and ship for a reasonable cost.
Wayne Essar this will all depend on your ground and type of planting. Pasture, yes. This is a good time to incorporate and not worry about it again until you till it down and do it again later. If it were a hay field for cutting, then likely supplementation would be needed with every haul away.
When you were talking about creating spaces for microbes. I immediately thought of a you cant plug in a light unless you have a socket. Ty sir for the science.
I don't care what you say about availability or efficacy. There is no possible way that spraying a liquid application with about 2 dry ounces of humic extract has a better effect than spreading 20 lbs of humic on my lawn.
I appreciate you not caring what I say and then making an argument so I’ll take this moment and teach. The difference you used in your statement is this: You are applying shale, not the actual released acid. If it were able to release on its own, you wouldn’t be able to a have that dry medium to spread. The material sits just under the surface layer of soil and rock and has for eons. Why would it suddenly be able to activate once it hits your lawn? To make it easier to understand, you have a car correct? Do you fill the tank with crude oil or refined gasoline made from oil? They both burn, they are both liquid, but only one will give your car performance.
@@Lawncology "Why would it suddenly be able to activate once it hits your lawn?" Because water. More specifically, water and bio-chemical reactions in the soil. It's the same process your "associates" use to extract the humic for the liquid extract, except you have 100x more humic substance down and it breaks down over time rather than giving a short boost. In other words, whats happening at your associate's liquid humic factory is happening at the microscopic level in the root zone for weeks after application. Granular humic forms are the only one that can truly "condition" the soil because you have have tons of organic carbon that act like a nutrient sponge/reaction chamber. You don't get that with liquid apps.
ForexTradex unfortunately that’s incorrect. It takes an alkali extraction to release the acids. The granular creates a housing for microbes which is just fine if that’s what you’re going for. “Water extracted” humic releases fulvic if it is able to sit in a solution for an extended period of time.
Why do these lugans need to film these selves driving? Are they trying to make themselves look like celebrities? of try to show they are too busy to film at home? lol people are so funny..
I'm going to save everyone 9 minutes. Buy his liquid humic and not the other guys granular humic.
myriadcorp 🙏🏻
I know this guy probably knows his stuff but I listen to his rambling then try to repeat in my mind what he said.
All I can recall is just buy my stuff.
I had bought 2 lbs of humic powder. I mix 8oz per gal and apply 1oz per 1k. So I get a TON of humic concentrate that goes a long way. I then put that in combo with some sea kelp and have a nice cheap effective spray to put down.
Honestly, wouldn't a 100% water soluble humic acid powder pretty much be the same as the liquid though? Humic acid powder is different than granular humic. I believe I have been told it is already combined (chemically reacted in this case?) with a potassium ion. I know of at least two vendors (that I consider reasonably well respected) selling 100% water soluble humic powder. I've also been told it can't be completely soluble without having this reaction with a potassium ion already. I believe I read an article about reactions with NH4 as well.
EDIT: You really need to decipher between granular and powder. The powders have been reacted, precipitated, dried and can will be re-dissolved into an actual solution (not a mixture).
Can you bring that tote to my house please?
lol spyed that tote too did ya?
I’ll put it in your mailbox!
Too bad GCF can't ship to Canada, was so excited to receive it when I ordered it form your store today, only to get an e-mail from the store saying GCF does not ship to Canada. Oh well, we can't always get what we want, and my neghbours don't take of their lawns anyway so it's pretty easy to dominate.
When
@@Pelley4560 If your interested in Humic products in Canada please feel free to contact us at SHAC Solutions Inc. we have been in the humic market for 30 years now. Our humics are much more than just humics were not bound by metal Ions like all these other humic products. We have hydrogen bonded our humics and you maybe need to use 1-2 litres per acre. For lawns we suggest 500ml per 2500ft2
So, applying granular that’s X% and a liquid that is also X%... and it’s all about application rate...
Wouldn’t I need to apply the same amount of each by weight? Or are you saying X% as a liquid is more efficacious than X% as a granular such as Andersons DG?
I (as a home owner) run it through my hand held spreader (dry granules) on the lowest setting...crank it out!! =-)
Hi John ... several videos out on TH-cam RE: mixing some humic granular with water and spraying onto the lawn as it disintegrates. When you say “react” the humic, how much time on average are you doing this before you bottle up a finished product? I’m assuming it’s not once & done, but it takes some time.
Milan Jurich the initial mix is three days, followed by settling, filtering, stabilizing, filtering, stabilizing... minimum of 45 days
To react use KOH or better yet NH4OH (ammonia) for a little fertilizer also
th-cam.com/video/AobakDzBeLk/w-d-xo.html
Let’s get more specific ... Humic12 liquid vs Humic DG granular. Is Humic DG as good after watering in as Humic12?
Milan Jurich here what I would say: As far as I know, Humic DG is raw leonardite and lignosulfanate. That material is used as a binder and a dispersing agent. Their patents are on the release of the material, not the lignosulfanate itself. I would state it simply like this, the low rate of that material is 44lbs per acre and at 70% HA, you would think you’d see incredible responses in soil, what you see is more efficient use of fertilizer because of the carbon content.
Many HA producers like myself would say liquid over granular or powder for all things growing or about to grow. Powder or raw material for field prep or major soil remediation when tillage is involved and the need is high.
Humic added to any program will make a difference in any form, but the process may be slower depending on which route you go.
Lawncology thx for the info. Just applied Humic12 and Air8 this afternoon to help work on the “clay” soil. Very surprised at how nicely it went down with a hose end sprayer. No smell ... just a nice brown color painting the turf. 👍
I've definitely seen an improvement using the N-ext Humic line. I am curious on your take on the use of some of the products on sandy soils. I live basically half mile inland from the ocean here in NJ and have 98% sandy as my soil type. I've read a ton of research and a lot of people seem to be of the opinion that Air8 (and things like it) is something to be avoided when you have sandy soil to that level. Curious if you have any other recommendations for that type of soil besides just "KEEP POURING THAT HUMIC OUT" which has basically been what I've done all year. RGS and Humic have shown some great results so far. As has the foliar MicroGreen apps.
Also, any chance of getting 2.5gal jugs of MicroGreen/RGS through Allyn or Pete? The 1gal packs are just a bit short on my property size for a full year. I figured the 2.5Gal would be perfect for around 2 years worth of product.
I do both, next humic products, and solid. Get 50lbs of solid for $30, but I only have 2300sq ft to cover, so it keeps things reasonable
@Lilbabykenny: what is your source for the granular?
Can you send the product link?
Great Vid, I had those same questions as well. Makes more since to apply liquid in a more concentrated % of Humic/Fulvic as a basic rule Liquid is a much better bang for your buck especially for the Home Owner/DIY'r. Thanks for sharing John.
Can you explain why? He mentions liquid Humic acid is more 'available' than dry. And mentions that the Humic acids have been 'reacted' into the solution. However, he doesn't mention what specifically this reaction is. There are Humic acid powders on the market which are water soluble in a matter of seconds to a minute of stirring/agitating. i have been told this is due to a reaction with a potassium ion. Is this the same reaction he is speaking of? If soluble powder is cheaper (which it definitely is), why is liquid more bang for your buck. He seems to be only discussing Liquid vs. Granular/non-soluble powder, if I am understanding correctly.
I would genuinely like to understand if there is a difference between 100% soluble (if it truly exists) Humic (or Fulvic) acid powder and liquid Humic acid that are currently on the market. Best I can tell, they are either a) the same, or b) he is claiming that they are not truly water soluble/not forming a solution (simply a suspension). The 'reaction making it more available to the soil/nutrients' does not make sense to me based on discussions with other suppliers. The one Humic acid powder vendor I have talked to about this states that their powder has been reacted with a potassium ion in order to make it soluble. I am curious if this counts as the 'reaction' he mentions in this video or if there is something more special about the reaction taking place. I want to know what this reaction is that he speaks of to make it more available vs. the reaction powder vendors are using to make Humic soluble. How are they different and why that applies.
Go check out Grass Factor (Matt Martin) last Live show. Pretty sure he explains your exact question and answers it fully in his last show, but could have been the one before. From my understanding is power fomula Humic/Fullvic can be just as good as long as it is processed correctly. i.e it needs to reacted the same why John does with his but then dried out to power fomula than added to water, etc., its going to depend on who is maufacturing it and how their process is staged for reaction. If the power your a refering to does not explain their process chances are they are cuting corners to save $$$. I believe John P did a vid a while back on his 3 stage process and filteration, but you cannot expect him to give away all his secrets! My thoughts for what they are worth!.
Thanks. I will look for this video. It is not that I don't trust anyone. I just like to have a good understanding of things before making a purchasing decision. Especially if I am knowingly choosing a more expensive product.
Yeah I get it! I stick with GCF products as they have a lot of University Studies behind them and John is also open to the community for questions and answers. I appreciate that and I am willing to pay a little more for that comfort!
Watched the one where he talked with John P. There was some discussion about Humic DG (which is a granular not a soluble powder, not to mention I feel like he described it inaccurately) but nothing regarding soluble powders. It's that right one? Or is it another Live Stream?
Does it matter which goes down first liquid humic acid to liquid aeration?
No
I’ve been trying to find a solution to prevent the dog spots in my yard that I’ve heard are caused by the sodium in the urine. My thought has been to apply something that could tend to lower the Ph level of the soil to counteract the sodium generally. With the ash in the solid form of the Humate, do you think that would be an effective method to try if I apply it regularly? Could I get the same benefit (if my theory is correct) by applying the liquid form? Or would that even be a reasonable course of action? Thanks!
Spray dog and cat repellent. That’s what you need to spray
Have you tried Green Earth Agriculture liquid humic acid?
Great info John, thanks!
Can you apply a fungicide “ propiconazole” with the n-ext products?
Can i get tote of your products deliver to long island ? Would like to used your products for my customers.
Mustang shelby yes of course. We ship bulk and small packaging from our plant in Georgia.
@@Lawncology nice you may my day now you got a new customer you got highly recommended by Freddy (Thumb Lawn) .
In farming I look at it differently.
If I am preparing a pasture for reseeding then granular leonardite and rock phosphate mean I don't have to resupplement for years.
Of course your business model can't be that way, it would not make sense, you need to sell product and ship for a reasonable cost.
Wayne Essar this will all depend on your ground and type of planting. Pasture, yes. This is a good time to incorporate and not worry about it again until you till it down and do it again later. If it were a hay field for cutting, then likely supplementation would be needed with every haul away.
Hello sir how to turn dust humic acid into liquid humic acid please reply me sir
I have no idea what I just watched....
When you were talking about creating spaces for microbes. I immediately thought of a you cant plug in a light unless you have a socket. Ty sir for the science.
Throwing out some Humic12 while I watch this.
Once I get a sprayer big enough for my yard, I’m all N-EXT products!
I don't care what you say about availability or efficacy. There is no possible way that spraying a liquid application with about 2 dry ounces of humic extract has a better effect than spreading 20 lbs of humic on my lawn.
I appreciate you not caring what I say and then making an argument so I’ll take this moment and teach. The difference you used in your statement is this:
You are applying shale, not the actual released acid. If it were able to release on its own, you wouldn’t be able to a have that dry medium to spread. The material sits just under the surface layer of soil and rock and has for eons. Why would it suddenly be able to activate once it hits your lawn? To make it easier to understand, you have a car correct? Do you fill the tank with crude oil or refined gasoline made from oil? They both burn, they are both liquid, but only one will give your car performance.
@@Lawncology "Why would it suddenly be able to activate once it hits your lawn?"
Because water. More specifically, water and bio-chemical reactions in the soil. It's the same process your "associates" use to extract the humic for the liquid extract, except you have 100x more humic substance down and it breaks down over time rather than giving a short boost. In other words, whats happening at your associate's liquid humic factory is happening at the microscopic level in the root zone for weeks after application.
Granular humic forms are the only one that can truly "condition" the soil because you have have tons of organic carbon that act like a nutrient sponge/reaction chamber. You don't get that with liquid apps.
ForexTradex unfortunately that’s incorrect. It takes an alkali extraction to release the acids. The granular creates a housing for microbes which is just fine if that’s what you’re going for. “Water extracted” humic releases fulvic if it is able to sit in a solution for an extended period of time.
sry but im not paying 90 dollars to ship Humic12
Why do these lugans need to film these selves driving? Are they trying to make themselves look like celebrities? of try to show they are too busy to film at home? lol people are so funny..
😂😂 what’s a Lugan? And yes, that day I was too busy to film at home on a topic that was asked of me!
A Lugan is a Lithuanian.
Larry Musick I have never heard of that.
JP IS a celebrity in the YT turfverse, doesn't have to try...
@@JEK They do when there wannabees
Talk is cheap. Viewers need to see the proof of your words please
smickness take a look at all other related content on my channel. Proof is everywhere.
look at his lawn