Add 3D Texture to Anything - 3D Printing Wolverine Helmet Pt2
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ส.ค. 2023
- Easily add 3D Textured effect to your projects that feels like rubber! 3D Printed Wolverine Helmet pt 2
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#3DPrinting #3DPrinter #wolverine - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
tip when working with green stuff - cut out the centre of the strip where the two colours meet - this will likely already be hard and will make mixing it difficult, giving a poor finish. You can also use water and vaseline to smooth it out
Oh man that is a fantastic tip! As there was for sure some already tiny harder bits in there. Not sure why they package it like that
@@UncleJessy they sell it in 2 seperate parts too. the touching strip is just so its quick cut and get about the right ratio. greenstuff is techically a kind of plummers epoxy putty. not just hobbyshops sell it. googlesearch will help find it.
@@UncleJessy also green stuff when cured does have a bit of flexibility to it, what is common is to mix the green stuff with miliput to get a hybrid putty
@@UncleJessyIt's probably cheaper for them to run dual extrusion machines than pairs of single extrusion ones.
Another way to get that yellow more vibrant is to paint it primer white/light grey, then a yellow that’s a little brighter than you want then do a black wash. That way the darker black will sit in the lower points but the yellow will stay on the high point and the wash should dull it down ever so slightly. That way you get the colors you want, where you want them. 🖤
Try a combo of milliput and green stuff. They mix well and makes the green stuff sand better
a little tip for yellow, always apply a white base ESPECIALLY over black otherwise you get that green tone. if you had did a dry brush of the white first, you probably would have gotten your vibrant yellow that you were looking for. also, you can take silicon putty for molding and used to to mold the textures and then went back and used it as a stamp to get your texture back on those seams and help kinda blend it in a little more :) i love these cowls, i might have to do one myself, great attention to detail
I found a nice trick for sanding the other day: use drywall screen sanding sheets. Sheds plastic so much better than traditional sandpaper.
def gonna try this for my next mask
Painting Tip, Yellow directly over black is always going to be very desaturated. You could dry brush on a lighter color first (light grey/light brown or even white) then dry brush yellow over that. You will get a much more vibrant result.
This, yellow on black will never get real yellow
yup agree with this. get light grey and white then finish with yellow will give you more vibrant yellow!
I think it looks good with yellow on black, it gives it a little bit of an aged look.
For large items like that I think I would recommend Apoxie Sculpt over green stuff. Has a longer working time and I think it is a bit softer and easier to work with in the long run.
Next time try Milliput. It’s another 2-part epoxy putty like greenstuff but it cures much harder and sands way better.
I absolutely second that. Milliut gets you much more detail, I use it all the time.
this!!
I love the idea of using flex seal as a spraypaint!
Yeah it worked pretty dang well. Especially for some extra texture
@@UncleJessy I've always been a fan of using clearcoats and high-gloss enamel spraypaints when doing the painting/sanding/painting/sanding process of prints, do you think you might do a video focusing on unusual or interesting coatings/methods like using flex seal? That might be a fun (if a little bit messy!) video to make! Big fan of your content
What I've used on textured prints that's worked well is Liquid Green Stuff. The control with the brush and being able to really smooth/texture was so much easier.
They turned out amazing!! Can’t wait to print one to before Deadpool 3 comes out 😁
the fact that you printed the one in a single piece is making me want that max even more.
WOAH! That coating looks awesome; definitely adding this to my list of things to try!
Millennium games! I didnt realize you were so close well a few hours away but still awesome store. And I find milliput (or greenstuff) is easier to mold when wet. I love using that stuff to hide seams. Also grab a set of clay tools they're great for molding the putty.
Great work, I love seeing you back finishing props!
It looks great!!!! For the next time if I can suggest a little tip to make the texture pop out on the yellow part...you can normally spray few coats of solid jellow with no fear and once is completely dry you can wash it with a darker oil color ( Brown, Black or often I use Burnt Umber) mixed in a bit of "Zippo" lighter fluid, wipe off the excess and let it dry...if you need you can repeat the process giving more layers but generally for props making that works great. 💪
So beautiful well done, one day I will get to where you are, save me a place when I get there lol❤️
Print in ABS. Very easy to trim, sand, and finish. Fuse the parts together with acetone--it only takes one or two applications with an eye dropper on opposing surfaces until they are tacky. Then mix scraps with acetone until you have a thick paste and carefully use that as a filler. Not only will you have a solid part in the end, as the parts are fused together, it will be more durable with slight flex, and not melt or deform in the sun or inside a hot car. Also, a spool of ABS can be purchased for $10-15. Of course take precautions to limit exposure to VOCs during printing, and ABS particles when finishing, and an enclosed printer is mandatory.
Looks Awesome!!
Those turned out pretty awesome. I'd love to see you turn one into a battle damaged version!
To avoid the yellow turning green, try drybrushing white, or pink first, then yellow once its dry. it will greatly brighten up the yellow. yellow on black brings out the blue in the black....blue and yellow make green.....thus the greenness
Try printing a negative square of the fins out of some flexible filament and use that as at texture stamp to get a matching texture.
such an awesome result!
Dude this is awesome!!!
pre ordered the 4 pro a few weeks ago and im on the sept. list. absolutely cannot wait
Greenstuff is a great tool, sculptors have been making miniature model prototypes (or conversions) for 40 years with it. But it takes a bit of practice to wield it effectively.
At mix, it's terribly sticky, you want to use water or vaseline to keep tools and fingers from sticking to it. It's workable for about 2h unless you mix too much which fasten the chemical reaction just like with regular epoxy putty (which it is). It hardens faster with heat than cold so if you mixed too much just drop it in the freezer, it will stay workable for a few days. It also is going to stay relatively soft and easy to carve for a few days.
You deffo applied too much and that forced you to sand way more than needed. Next time, try to apply a thin cordon (2-3mm diameter thin rope) ON THE INSIDE edge of the ear piece and squish it so you'll only have to scrap the excess with a dental tool.
Flaswess! Next: 1989 Batman mask?
I'd love to see you make a TPU version... maybe a combo of TPU for the black part and PLA for the yellow?
Pro tip for sanding parts perfectly flat... Tape a sheet of sandpaper to a flat surface. Then sand back and forth with the side you want flat down, against the sandpaper.
It looks nice! The seam is not perfect, but it's only noticeable when the light hit it from certain angles.
You may want to cut out the bottom of the chin strap, so you can talk?
Have you thought about adding an orange wash over the yellow areas so it won’t look greenish?
The helmets look awesome! I wonder if using old bits of filament, like the supports, and either a soldering iron, or something to melt into those cracks to better hide the seems? IDK its just something ive seen others try. I wish I could print things like this, but if I did my house would soon be full of things
For easier use of green stuff I normally do a 50/50 mix of green stuff and milliput as they become together the best of both worlds, very easy to work with. Also if you wet your hands before it is way easier to sculpt and tame.
Love your videos hope this helps especially with your Magneto Sculpture! 😊
Vallejo Liquid Putty is also a great way to fill gaps.
One more green stuff tip: that hardening effect you felt around the 3 minute mark on was probably because it was getting cold. I always stick my excess green stuff in a crook between my fingers to keep it warm while I work with a model.
When I use green stuff, I like to brush it with water to taper off the edges, it would help blend those seems out a lot and you might not even need to sand afterwards!
Yep, greenstuff / kneadatite is a wonder. As I said before, I repaired my car dashboard with it, added a little paint, and almost perfect.
A few tips:
Clay sculpting tools, the metal push ball for stippling, a silicone wedge brush for pushing it into cracks or smoothing, and the dentist's pick for forcing it into small holes.
Vaseline on the tool helps to keep the greenstuff onto only the part, but it can lead to painting issues later if you do not thoroughly clean, cold/ice water is a good alternative.
Also, if you can find the product already separated into Blue and Yellow strips it helps, otherwise when you get a new package remove a small amount through the whole center as that starts curing in the package. I have a 3-foot roll (down to 1 foot now) that is stable and usable after 6 years.
If you need more rigidity a combination of greenstuff and milliput (sometimes called graystuff) 50/50 is a strong blend, but alters the working time.
Painting tip regarding yellow. Undercoat white. Then drop a good yellow coat. Dark undertones can be added/created post processing by creating a wash or dry brushing. Yellow does tend to go green over black. A wash will fill in the (in between texture) shading while falling off the higher areas you want to keep yellow. You can even dab it with a paper towel to make the contrast more dramatic.
Looks great. I wonder is stippling liquid have helped with the texture
Next time try milliput! Also when working with green stuff get a small bowl of water and keep your hands wet/moist and it’ll spread/fill in way better and smooth too.
Try making texture stamps before you fill the seams. Just brush a thick layer or two of latex rubber over any spot that has the texture you want to replicate. Cut a small patch of fabric and place it on top of the latex you just applied before it dries. Then another coat of latex over the fabric. The fabric will strengthen the stamp. Let it all dry on the print before peeling it off. Apply the gap filler. Not too much, just enough to fill the seam. Try not to overlap like Jesse did LOL. Some gap fillers can be smoothed out with water to blend the edges better. Magic Sculp is one of these. Then before the gap filler dries, push and remove the texture stamp into the soft gap filler in several areas to create the same texture as on the rest of the print. Then just let the filler dry. In most cases, if you applied the right amount of filler and smoothed the edges well, you won't be able to tell there was ever a seam there.
Maybe with the green stuff instead of a ball try rolling it out into a long snake, lay it along the seem, then just press it in.
For the eyes, you can make some custom meshes by printing a 2 layer thick mesh with 40% infill in bambu slicer with no walls but just infills. They works well as semi-transparent eye covers.
Flex Seal...brilliant!
When using Green Stuff or Milliput to fill gaps, I like to roll the putty out into thin worms, and then just lay them over the gaps. Then you can just smoosh them flush. Very little excess material to clean up that way.
a tip for using milliput or green stuff: roll it out to a very thin cord and put that in the seam When needed apply one layer on top but try to get as less milliput/green stuff sticking out on the top. Then smooth it out with a wet finger and add some texture with a sculpting tool. You can get special sticks with a (fairly stiff) silicone tip that are great for this
Smooth On freeform air. You can thin it with water and apply it with a paint brush. You can then wipe the excess off with a wet rag.
Dude, you make a good looking Wolvy, I say go for the whole thing like you did with Magneto
another great texture finish is duplicolor "Bed Armor" bed liner. comes in rattle cans in a few colors, as well as black and clear. its WATER BASED and dries rapidly. you can vary the texture size by spraying from different distances. i use it a lot. very durable. all my trucks are painted with this stuff LOL
Is this also rubber like the flex seal and plastidip?
@@LightsFirstSon I think it is rubber..however when it cures it has a tougher, less soft finish than flex seal. more like regular paint that has a texture. its easy to paint over as well.
@@stephengolaski6451 that's good info. Thank you.
tip on the greenstuff. on a clean wet surface like water on glass or the table.... roll the green stuff into a long thin log for filling gaps, you can roll it thin as you want to make it so it fits the long gaps easier. Always wet your tools or fingers when working with it so you dont stick. when you were dimpling the greenstuff with the paintbrush end you could hear the tak tak tak sound of it sticking to it. if you wet the end of the paintbrush that wouldnt happen. also as said before cut out the small bit where the 2 colours join as it will have already cured. thats why you have yellow lumps in your mix. you can play with the ratio of the mix. you can play with the mix a ratio of three parts blue to one part yellow when they need a super-firm putty. For more detailed work, you should increase the ratio of yellow filler to blue hardener. This will form a lighter green putty which is slower to cure and much more flexible for carving and sculpting. once done a warm area will cause it to cure faster. it was a old sculptors trick to put it near a old lightbulb (non led) to act like a putty oven to cure it faster. it will cure in 24 hours unless you heat it which might speed it. it shouldnt be tacky anymore but it inherantly will be slightly rubbery/bendable, which can be good for bond not snapping if bumped.
With halloween coming up, you can always do Zombie wolverine look on it.
Yellow is a PITA to paint over a darker surface. Try priming, or even printing, in white or grey, lay on a decent yellow base, and then tone that down with darker washes and dry brushing. It is a lot easier to make something bright darker than it is to make something dark brighter.
As for the texture, jeez, I never liked trying to match molded-in textures on models cars. I always ended up sanding the part smooth and making my own texture on there LOL This mask has such a large, flat area, you might be able to find some kind of textured fabric or something and stick in on with spray adhesive.
if your doing the ears in pieces i would see if you can do a smooth finish on the black before printing,and then do flex seal after you've attached them and sanded the seams smooth, that flex seal is just gonna build up on the seam they way its been done here and youll always see it
The max is the best printer I’ve ever used. Good for my company
I own the Neptune 4, its incredible I can only reccomend it. You also dont really need rapid pla in my opinion
Im in love with this printer
if you want a yellow that pops without making it a full coat, you can try a neon yellow and dry brush that on. obviously I havent tried it, but it might be something to try out.
Weldon 40... the adhesive of my dreams. Use a glass syringe and an 18g/16g stainless needle and you're sorted.
With a texture like that I bet you could give it a nice even coat of yellow then do a black paint wash. maybe test it out on one of the failed prints first to see if that’s the look you’re going for.
GREAT VIDEO!! do you have the stl for eyes? thanks
I mostly use spackle paste drywall for tiles, it's non toxic, has consistency of toothpaste and can be thinned and removed with water, for large holes i use Aves.
The spackle paste i just apply, let it fully cure up to a day then apply water on it and go over it with a cloth in one direction, each time more of it get smooth till eventually its only in the holes and scratches. For painting i would have painted with an airbrush fully yellow the head part then apply a dark wash over it to fill in all the crevices and textures and finally a dry brush of the base color to get the high points back, just my workflow.
Nice job on the eyes I like that 👍👍 sweet if you could show more info on how you did that
Great job. I see that the "Green stuff" is also available in a small tube and it can be thinned with water which means you could smooth out the surface with a damp cloth after applying to reduce the sanding. I liked your helmet stands as well. Are yo able to drop a link for the source?
Always love your videos. Here are my suggestions (from experience} when using green stuff( or any 2 part epoxy) and/or seaming something:
Trim off the first 1/16" of the 2 part epoxy putty and throw away. This gets rid of the crusty part that may be present.
Mix the two parts really, really well. It should only be one color when done with no chunks in the mix.
Use very little to fill in seam to begin with. It's much easier to add more than it is having to sand some away.
Slightly bevel the very edges of the parts you are joining before applying the putty. This makes the edge round and easier to blend.
Slightly moisten the tool you are using with water to keep it from sticking to the putty. Spit works better. Yes I know, gross.
Take your time.
Another vote for milliput. You can apply it much more finely and use a wet brush to smooth it out. You won't have any over application issues. Also it's cheaper than green stuff, and there are way cheaper yellows than Citadel that are just as good or better!
If you want to do a poppy yellow, start with a white drybrush and then yellow over the top of it. Yellow is a weak pigment so it takes many coats to move from black to vibrant yellow. White does all that for you.
Love your channel! Can you please share your slicer settings please 🙏 I am new to this
I used that pla gloop for the first time today and omgsh, why didn’t anybody warn me about the fumes?! Holy cow!
One thing you could also do is before you try to cram the putty in a gap, coat some vaseline into surfaces you want to protect beforehand. Nothing should cure against that so it only cures in the crack then you wipe it down after curing and smooth just that spot back down
Looking real nice. That flush smooth fitting worked well.
How would you apply a texture to your model in something like Fusion 360, that you can 3D print yourself?
This looks great, what layer height do you usually print at?
I’ve tried covering large seams with bono plastic metal and that worked pretty well, is the green stuff better?
you could try micro holes/mesh for the eyes. Something is better than nothing.
You should turn one into the force wolverine color and print out red eyes for it 😮💨🔥
Battle Damage! Yeah!
Personally I'd have just used a wood filler putty but I'd also have cut the portion of the strap under the chin and replace it with nylon or heavy elastic so as to not hinder jaw movement. As for the color I'd have gone for the tan and brown from the Miller/Claremont run vs the black and yellow
I saw that design on the internet. But it was too much big for my printer so i printed it with a smaller size to my lego man
okay... now that is an awesome idea!
Yes. But it does fall when i turn it
how did you print it in that texture in the first place? i dont see any print lines just the nice texture
Thats why modelers need to make sure the tabs are a bit smaller than the hole they go in. Size head the stock file fits would also be helpful. I usually have to go to 103 or 105 percent on some of Nicco Industries helmets. Not sure about others... I just made a Star Trek Tricorder and to put the rough finish I used a truck bed liner and bottom panel protection paint. Comes out black and bumpy. The farther away you spray the better it looks... Full pressure sprays, starting off the model and then onto it works. If I could I'd send you a picture. You read my mind... the scale and sizing at the end...:-) Thanks.
Just curious how a fine mesh eye socket would look and also could you look out of it?
Hello. Sorry if I'm out of topic, but ... suggestions about a good UV torch for curing resin and soldering parts with it? Thanks in advance. Mattia
Also tamiya putty you can thin it with thinners amd get into small gaps
I would love to see it on the Elegoo Jupiter in resin!!!
with the eyes, i reccomened making a very slight shadow with an airbrush. having them comletely white makes them look a bit out of place in my opinion
Green stuff always cures a bit squishy, not that good for sanding. Milliput is good if you want to sand it after. You can combine the two and somehow they just retain all the good properties.
Also cut out the part in the centre where the two colours meet, it cures in storage and doesn’t mix leaving little lumps in your putty.
Lastly, “green stuff” is a hobby brand name so comes with the hobby price mark up. Search for kneadadite, might find it cheaper
Could try putting strips of tape on either side of the seam, so after it's cured you can pull up all the excess. Might not work, idk, just an idea.
I admit I'm a newb in this topic, but why not use the same filament to blend the seams? 3d pen comes to mind.
there is liquid greenstuff that may work for this too, maybe would be easier to make it smoother
Green stuff isnt mixed well enough. you can still see the yellow in it. I like the galeforce brand myself. it comes in seperate tubes of blue and yellow in one pack. then you can mix 50:50, rather than the AP pre determined amount. Stellar result you have tho.
Hi, Love your energy in all the videos you do. Can you recommend 3D modelers that do commissioned work? I'm fairly new to this world and I have been having a difficult time finding anyone. It seems they all have patreons and there pages never have contact information. Thanks in advance!
Hey @UncleJessy I bought today the Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro and i see you have it too. I wanted to ask if you have some advice for me to get the best print quality. I dont bother with print time very much but i want it as smooth ond detailed as possible. Thank you very much :)
you need to drybrush white then go back to yellow, its gonna make it pop more
When scaling this would you just do test rings of the chin area and the head opening?
Is it possible to paint the flex seal with plaidfx paint? Or not a great idea?
Glazing putty seems like it would be faster and a lot easier to work with.
If you did a micro mesh you will be able to see through the eye bits.
Uncle Jessy, do you have any good slicer profiles for the Netune 4 Pro?
Use power mesh fabric for eye mesh if you actually plan to wear it.
Did you 3d print the mask stand? If so, can you share the link?
Before painting, try aplly a primer first, it will give the paint a better adhesion, specially the acrylic. Neve put paint directly to plastic.
jess use a little water on your finger to smooth the green stuff
Does the 3d gloop work on resin?
How do you get exact size to print for the eyes.