Rear Deck Sub Replacement - Genesis Sedan
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ย. 2024
- In this video I'll be replacing the factory 8" deck sub with an aftermarket Kicker one. Most people choose to just install an aftermarket box in the trunk to avoid this job but it wasn't to bad and worth it if you wanna keep the trunk space.
Aftermarket Sub box install : • Genesis Sedan Sub Inst...
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Rear Deck Sub Replacement - Genesis Sedan
Thank you kindly for making all of these repair videos for the Genesis
no problem, glad I can help :D
@@GenerationGaragegotta subscribe man I got one these it’s 2011 silver with black interior with about 121k miles has muffler delete sounds so good was looking for a video like this 🔥🔥🔥
Hey quick question I’m trying to replace my sub with the same kicker sub or the comp r can I use my factory lexicon amp or no ??
@@jaylanjackson4653 yes you can but you'll need to turn the bass up higher on the head unit
Keep posting all your work bro.. I have this same year and model!! I'm about to post me changing out the head gaskets. Stay tuned.
I wanted to hear it
Camera doesn't do justice
I have a 2015 and I ran from the amp on the left side but I get low bass return what can I have done wrong ?
What does it sound like?
oem
I bought a comp r but im very disappointed especially since kicker doesn't put there spec on the site
You can add a small amp under it in the trunk if you want to run more watts
For the left and right speakers on the rear deck would some Kicker DSC4’s (41DSC44) work?
Unfortunately, I'm not sure. I don't recall what the watt requirements are but if I had to guess it would be less then 200w and probably 2ohm
Hey man my stock sub keeps cutting in and out especially at higher volumes, highs and mids work at all time.. is there a couple of fuses to check or anything else i should diagnose or is it probably toast?
Responded to first comment in the other video
Any idea on what 4” speakers would fit on that rear deck area next to the 8” sub? Any templates or anything necessary?
Unfortunately, I'm not sure. I don't recall what the watt requirements are but if I had to guess it would be less then 200w and probably 2ohm
Even though the factory sub is blown, can you still get power from it “green and black wires” to go with the rca for the aftermarket sub? Or should I say connection?
Yes you can, see my other sub videos for details
@@GenerationGarage got it to work 🤜🏽
I'm wanting to drop an 8" sub and take the stock one out. I notice a year ago you said the stock sub was a DVC 2ohm. Then a month ago you said 4ohm. Could you tell me if you got the lexicon sub and if it's DVC or SVC, and what the ohms are? I can't find anything online about it. Thanks bro.
Sorry about that, the whole system should be 2ohm but I used a 4ohm instead. The factory system is an open are dual voice coil sub, so if you decide to put a bigger sub in keep in mind the watts as I believe the factory system only puts out about 400 so anything larger would require a standalone amp (I have the full lexicon system)
@@GenerationGarage thanks for the reply. I only want a little more bass so I'm just adding an aftermarket 8 inch. I know the stock system only puts out 538 watts, but I don't want to add an amp. I am staying close to stock until they make an Android head unit that works with the Lexicon system. Love the videos by the way
Is the factory DVC sub dual 4ohm or dual 2ohm?
2ohm
Thank you for the video.... Question???? I blow my rear door speakers, also the Sub, and tried to replace them with a pair of MTX Terminator 6 from Crutchfield... Very easy to do but the sound is horrible. The original Lexicon are so much better.... What do you recommend for better, louder sound? I plan to replace all of them.
If your sound isn’t the same it’s because your running 4 ohms in the doors instead of two, 2 ohms produces louder and better quality sounds
Also the doors actually have mini subs not speakers, the entire car uses 2 ohms but 4 ohm can be used although you'll need to turn the gain up on your head unit so supply the extra power
Would definitely look into the speaker specs and use something close to what it was running if using stock unit and like he said ohms Matter.
What if I’m not getting any sound from the stock sub where else can I tap into
you'd need to tap into one of the door speakers with the high low converter
@@GenerationGarage thank you I’ll try that out
Which wire is positive and negative? Green and black from stock sub?
Its shown at 18:09 but black is positive and green is negative
@@GenerationGarage I wired mine green positive and black negative lol
@@angellujan5794 it's gonna be inverted and not sound right
What ohm is the factory sub?
4ohm
@GenerationGarage thank You...I ha a 2014 azera, hard to find any info as far as specs on the infinity logic 7...big help thanks again!
So this would be my first time doing it but how do you wire the sub
Get a duel voice coil sub and clip the plugs for the factory one then just plug it in to the 4 wires like shown in the video, if you decide to go to a bigger watt sub then you'll need an aftermarket amp and high low converter to power it correctly. If you go with an aftermarket amp then for the high low converter you'll only need the 2 wires on the drivers side and just unplug the right side and leave it capped
@@GenerationGarage so I only need to splice wires on the left
@@DTBINAGENNY if your going with a single coil sub then yes you can use just the left but it's not recommended if your staying with the factory amp, if you just want an easy install with like OEM quality get a duel voice coil sub and use both sets of wires. If you wanna run am aftermarket sub & box combo with an aftermarket amp then yes only the left is required to go to a high low converter
@@DTBINAGENNY I just did it. My 2011 Genesis has 300k and still running super well. No major repairs. If you decide to do it I got a $50 Recoil LOC (Hi/Low Line out converter) that kinda fixes the bass. But it has Signal Sensing (LOC turns on when it senses a signal from the factory sub, and has a remote wire out for the aftermarket amp) so no need to run a Fuse Jumper from the front passenger fuse box to the trunk. Still need to test for parasitic drain but seems like its running well. @Generation Garage took all the guesswork out of the job.
Wait why did you take out the aftermarket subs? I was going to ask... how did the fuse taps work? Doing a 2011 genesis rn. Also, why did you route remote wire up the center vs up floorboard?
I still have my aftermarket 12s but I also wanted to fix the factory 8" The fuse hop runs to the passenger side fuse box on the dash and only gets power when the car turns on. I did remove most of my interior to run the wire so its not visible, I made a video on this awhile back if you wanna go check it out
@@GenerationGarage cool thanks so much man! I joined the Facebook group super appreciate your help. I was thinking I might just run speedwire 9 conductor and aux in case I do a head unit or speakers later. Either gonna go up the center or under the foot panels they both look tricky. Is your factory aux super static?
@@h8h81 running through the center console is how I did it up into the dash and under the rear seat for my signal but as for quality for the RCA output its actually decent and gives all I need out of it
@@GenerationGarage for sure man your vids really helped me with my install I appreciate it! I did the Walmart special power acoustik with the recoil LOC with the bass x kinda like audiocontrol lc7i. I feel like the signal is a little anemic from the factory sub. I shouldn't have t3sted th3 sub in between my back seats cuz now I'm never gonna move it to the trunk 😞.
No subwoofer demo?
Did you use the stock amp with the kicker?
Yes I did
That’s not an infinite baffle type of sub. Don’t try this you will be disappointed
You’ll need an IB sub!!
I heard most subs will sound good for IB.
Its an open air sub as per the manufacture specs, if you don't believe me just look it up..
Sounds great to me and hits better then the factory one did