You are an amazing diagnostician! All the new KTM's and other brands are full of complicated electronics, I would never consider buying one. Thank you for sharing this video!
Hey! But honestly, it’s pretty simple. Electronics are usually more reliable than mechanical parts. It might seem a bit harder to understand at first, but once you get the hang of it, it’s no big deal.
I have 790 adv r and about to pull the trigger on 2024 1290 SAR. With this video, I am more confident servicing and fixing the bike my self. Thanks for the tutorial. Keep the good content. Cheers!
I would send it to the dealer... remembering all those screw locations, then finding all the torque specs for them... a nightmare for me :) Kudo's for doing it all by yourself.
Regarding the little metal shaving that you found in the oil screw filter ... that is a piece from the thread of the engine case ( where you screw the bolt with filter) I had mine overtight or put back on an angle and stripped all the teeth of the engine case! Had it fixed with a TIME SERT! keep an eye on it next oil change! good luck
Great job i have the same bike and took the tank and cowling off right after buying it off the showroom floor to install Denali Lights and also reposition some loose wiring harness resting on the hot radiator. Wasn't difficult bur it does have a sequence.
Hi! You're right, there are a lot of sensors. But if the others are broken, the bike will start, or indicate the problem on the screen. Like the gear sensor or the footpeg sensor. If the temperature or air pressure sensor fails, the computer can operate in emergency mode. The engine will not work properly, but it will start.
You're absolutely right! The service manual says so, but there is one point. In my version of the sensor and seat, there is no possibility to adjust the gap. I couldn't find it. There were specific protrusions on the sensor so that it could not be displaced. Because of this, I just looked that the sensor does not touch the rotor, and the gap is small by eye. But it also puzzled me. Is it possible that the sensor has to be bent for revalidation? That can't be.
@@ItsReallyEasy Apparently if the airgap is not right the bike can misfire when giving (a lot of) throttle at about 3000 rpm. I heard KTM mechanics had to adjust the airgap from 0.5 to 0.7mm and that solved the problem. Don't you have this problem?
@@fredh4641 This is very interesting information. I had ignition skips before the sensor problems and they were solved by replacing the spark plugs. The plugs have worked for about 50,000 kilometers.
I live in Northwest Arkansas. We have finally seen temps below freezing. My '22 SAS will not start unless the battery has full charge. I had to take off a lithium battery I bought in early Summer, it just will not start this LC8 in the cold. I put the stock battery back on (after a load test and full charge) and could not start without using a jump pack. Needless to say, I will be investing in an AGM battery. I have over 12k miles on mine, but am frustrated that these 1290s are so sensitive to battery voltage at startup. BTW, once running, battery volatage is around 14v
Hey! Yes, batteries are a problem! If the battery is a bit low or old, it doesn't have enough starting current to turn the engine. That's because of the big cylinders and the high compression ratio. Or do you have one that cranks but won't start? Sometimes it has helped me to push the bike back and forth with the gear engaged to move the piston, then it will start. But that trick doesn't work in the dirt.
@D-Stealth I think my issue is battery related. The lithium isn't recommended for cold storage, even says so on the package, but an option for summer. It is very light, not even 1kg versus nearly 4kg for stock lead battery. My SAS is parked in storage with no heat/electricity so I pull battery off (a minor pain) and trickle charge. I will try rocking bike in gear to see if that helps.
@@scottieray Well, you really need to rock the bike hard to get the crankshaft to turn a little. About the weight savings, is it really worth it for just a couple of kilograms? When I ride off-road, my bike usually picks up at least 10 kg of mud anyway. And when I travel, I feel like I’m carrying half of my house with me! :) I was actually considering a lithium battery mainly for the higher cranking power. But thanks for the info - I can see it won’t really help in my case. For example, today I was riding in 2°C weather.
Didn't you get any flashing codes for the sensor? I had the same issue on my 2016 1290, and i had the red led flash the code (short and long flashes in a specific order), so I was sure it was the crank sensor. In any case, great course of diagnosing and solving the issue yourselfn
Hi! Thank you! I think on newer bikes you can only diagnose with a diagnostic tool. I haven't seen any mention of self-diagnosis with a flashing light. The principle itself is familiar to me, on my Dodge Stealth I can do such diagnostics.
@@ItsReallyEasy there is nothing on the repair manual of my 1290 either. they dont mention the list of fault codes, and they dont even mention the fact that the led flashing can indicate an issue, which i find really weird. a fellow rider managed to compile a list of fault codes and i found that list online. i guess KTM does not want us to self-diagnose any issues (not surprised tbh lol)
Excellent tutorial, thanks! Just a quick question - could you plug in a engine trouble code reader and get an error code from the bike, like you do with cars?
I have that same shaving from mine. 2017 55k. I use diesel semi synthetic oil lol. Every task, fuel filter, air filter, spark plug, timing, sas, all come with a mandatory 4 hour de-robing argh
wow you are overqualified for home garage mechanic )) its sad that such high priced bike have a problems like this. I have 1190 adv r and the same issue - bike eats crank sensors twice a year (( nobody knows why it happened. advices - you can put motorcycle on the left side using small chair - no oil spill when remove cover, clean motor with pressure air before removing the cover AND you need to check the space between sensor and wheel
Thank you! But it's really not hard. And about the sensors, I have a suspicion that they use wires with inadequate insulation on the sensors. It's hardening, and it's probably causing half the problems. I'll have to take the sensor apart and see if I can confirm what I'm saying.
maybe it depends what continent you're riding or what sensor SKU they use in different locations. I had 30000k on it and it didn't have that problem. The only sensor that ever failed on mine was the side stand sensor :)
@@dawn-moon Hi. I've done 68,000, maybe you'll have it break down later too. But you are right, maybe different parts manufacturers are used, for different regions. Probably depends on the oil used, or driving style.
@@kj385the number of bolts and the different sizes are absolutely ridiculous. On my vfr everything was the same size. Also; to connect the Acc it takes 7 panels and 40+ bolts with 6 different sizes if I recall correctly. This is absolutely bonkers.
Hi! It's not as hard as it sounds. You can do it. Just make sure that's the problem. You can go the diagnostic route like in the video. It could be nothing at all, like a broken button on the remote control.
@ItsReallyEasy Not that, many excellent videos like this are spoiled by music in the background , which in my opinion and that of others too, is unecessary .
@@rogerwilliams2902 Yeah, I totally get that. But in this case, the ambient sound wasn’t great, and the frequent speed-ups made the audio even worse. Had to cover it up with some music!
Wow, what a paint to change that sensor. Well done 👏
You are an amazing diagnostician! All the new KTM's and other brands are full of complicated electronics, I would never consider buying one. Thank you for sharing this video!
Hey!
But honestly, it’s pretty simple. Electronics are usually more reliable than mechanical parts. It might seem a bit harder to understand at first, but once you get the hang of it, it’s no big deal.
A great video, very educational, thank you very much!
I have 790 adv r and about to pull the trigger on 2024 1290 SAR. With this video, I am more confident servicing and fixing the bike my self. Thanks for the tutorial. Keep the good content. Cheers!
Thank you! This is a really fantastic tutorial.
So much work on this video for us! Thanks buddy!
Your skills are impressive!
Cheers, appreciate the kind words!
Great video ! Cheers
I would send it to the dealer... remembering all those screw locations, then finding all the torque specs for them... a nightmare for me :) Kudo's for doing it all by yourself.
Regarding the little metal shaving that you found in the oil screw filter ... that is a piece from the thread of the engine case ( where you screw the bolt with filter)
I had mine overtight or put back on an angle and stripped all the teeth of the engine case! Had it fixed with a TIME SERT!
keep an eye on it next oil change! good luck
Great job i have the same bike and took the tank and cowling off right after buying it off the showroom floor to install Denali Lights and also reposition some loose wiring harness resting on the hot radiator. Wasn't difficult bur it does have a sequence.
Love the video mate! But crankhaft position sensor is not the only one. Coolant temperature, oil temperature, air sensor and others.
Hi! You're right, there are a lot of sensors. But if the others are broken, the bike will start, or indicate the problem on the screen. Like the gear sensor or the footpeg sensor. If the temperature or air pressure sensor fails, the computer can operate in emergency mode. The engine will not work properly, but it will start.
Great tut. And yes, KTM use a screw from every box 😕 I'd never have thought about that sensor, so nice one
What was the mileage on your bike?
Hey! Right now, it’s at 68,000 km.
With that mechanic skills I bet you can fix everything 😄And a bike and a car and whatever else you want
Isn't there an specific air gap between the crankshaft position sensor and rotor (about 0.5mm I think) you should measure?
You're absolutely right! The service manual says so, but there is one point. In my version of the sensor and seat, there is no possibility to adjust the gap. I couldn't find it. There were specific protrusions on the sensor so that it could not be displaced. Because of this, I just looked that the sensor does not touch the rotor, and the gap is small by eye. But it also puzzled me. Is it possible that the sensor has to be bent for revalidation? That can't be.
@@ItsReallyEasy Apparently if the airgap is not right the bike can misfire when giving (a lot of) throttle at about 3000 rpm. I heard KTM mechanics had to adjust the airgap from 0.5 to 0.7mm and that solved the problem. Don't you have this problem?
@@fredh4641 This is very interesting information. I had ignition skips before the sensor problems and they were solved by replacing the spark plugs. The plugs have worked for about 50,000 kilometers.
I live in Northwest Arkansas. We have finally seen temps below freezing. My '22 SAS will not start unless the battery has full charge. I had to take off a lithium battery I bought in early Summer, it just will not start this LC8 in the cold. I put the stock battery back on (after a load test and full charge) and could not start without using a jump pack. Needless to say, I will be investing in an AGM battery. I have over 12k miles on mine, but am frustrated that these 1290s are so sensitive to battery voltage at startup. BTW, once running, battery volatage is around 14v
Hey!
Yes, batteries are a problem! If the battery is a bit low or old, it doesn't have enough starting current to turn the engine. That's because of the big cylinders and the high compression ratio. Or do you have one that cranks but won't start?
Sometimes it has helped me to push the bike back and forth with the gear engaged to move the piston, then it will start. But that trick doesn't work in the dirt.
@D-Stealth I think my issue is battery related. The lithium isn't recommended for cold storage, even says so on the package, but an option for summer. It is very light, not even 1kg versus nearly 4kg for stock lead battery. My SAS is parked in storage with no heat/electricity so I pull battery off (a minor pain) and trickle charge. I will try rocking bike in gear to see if that helps.
@@scottieray Well, you really need to rock the bike hard to get the crankshaft to turn a little. About the weight savings, is it really worth it for just a couple of kilograms? When I ride off-road, my bike usually picks up at least 10 kg of mud anyway. And when I travel, I feel like I’m carrying half of my house with me! :)
I was actually considering a lithium battery mainly for the higher cranking power. But thanks for the info - I can see it won’t really help in my case. For example, today I was riding in 2°C weather.
Didn't you get any flashing codes for the sensor? I had the same issue on my 2016 1290, and i had the red led flash the code (short and long flashes in a specific order), so I was sure it was the crank sensor.
In any case, great course of diagnosing and solving the issue yourselfn
Hi! Thank you! I think on newer bikes you can only diagnose with a diagnostic tool. I haven't seen any mention of self-diagnosis with a flashing light. The principle itself is familiar to me, on my Dodge Stealth I can do such diagnostics.
@@ItsReallyEasy there is nothing on the repair manual of my 1290 either. they dont mention the list of fault codes, and they dont even mention the fact that the led flashing can indicate an issue, which i find really weird.
a fellow rider managed to compile a list of fault codes and i found that list online.
i guess KTM does not want us to self-diagnose any issues (not surprised tbh lol)
👍
Excellent tutorial, thanks! Just a quick question - could you plug in a engine trouble code reader and get an error code from the bike, like you do with cars?
Yes, you can. The diagnostic device costs about 400 euros. And it is not an original device, but one that can read codes.
I didn't buy one.
I have that same shaving from mine. 2017 55k. I use diesel semi synthetic oil lol. Every task, fuel filter, air filter, spark plug, timing, sas, all come with a mandatory 4 hour de-robing argh
HI! What does this cleanse involve, or what does it look like?
A little more involved than a DR650!
what was the mileage when the sensor broke?
@@alexrzr ~65K km
Glad I ride a 990.
Hi! The 1290 SAR is actually not that bad. This is the first such repair in its 68K km.
The only way to fix ktm's and stop worries for any problem is to sell it and buy japanese model, i am helping you
:) You're probably right! But life is much more fun with a KTM!
A beautiful grave from outside but filthy inside
Well, it's not that bad. He's driven 68,000 kilometers. :)
Good oil 😎
wow you are overqualified for home garage mechanic )) its sad that such high priced bike have a problems like this. I have 1190 adv r and the same issue - bike eats crank sensors twice a year (( nobody knows why it happened. advices - you can put motorcycle on the left side using small chair - no oil spill when remove cover, clean motor with pressure air before removing the cover AND you need to check the space between sensor and wheel
Thank you! But it's really not hard. And about the sensors, I have a suspicion that they use wires with inadequate insulation on the sensors. It's hardening, and it's probably causing half the problems. I'll have to take the sensor apart and see if I can confirm what I'm saying.
maybe it depends what continent you're riding or what sensor SKU they use in different locations. I had 30000k on it and it didn't have that problem. The only sensor that ever failed on mine was the side stand sensor :)
@@dawn-moon Hi. I've done 68,000, maybe you'll have it break down later too. But you are right, maybe different parts manufacturers are used, for different regions. Probably depends on the oil used, or driving style.
These bikes are ridiculously dufficult to work on. Have to take half the bike apart for everything.
Yeah, you’re right. But compared to cars, they’re still easier to work on.
Bodywork and tank are pretty basic to remove. And really not any more work than my naked bikes.
@@kj385the number of bolts and the different sizes are absolutely ridiculous. On my vfr everything was the same size. Also; to connect the Acc it takes 7 panels and 40+ bolts with 6 different sizes if I recall correctly. This is absolutely bonkers.
@@michaelrjacobsthen maybe you’re not the type to work on bikes 😅
@@kj385 nonsense. They should have thought about serviceability.
È il problema che ho io...ma non sono bravo come te😢
Hi! It's not as hard as it sounds. You can do it. Just make sure that's the problem. You can go the diagnostic route like in the video. It could be nothing at all, like a broken button on the remote control.
Shame about the music.
Hey, not a fan of this music choice?
@ItsReallyEasy Not that, many excellent videos like this are spoiled by music in the background , which in my opinion and that of others too, is unecessary .
@@rogerwilliams2902 Yeah, I totally get that. But in this case, the ambient sound wasn’t great, and the frequent speed-ups made the audio even worse. Had to cover it up with some music!