Hey Ronald, first of all I want to say thank you very much for watching the video. Thank you very much for your comments. Very much appreciated. And I want to also say that when it comes to setting up these electronic ignition systems, everybody offers this very basic very very basic wiring diagram. And I guess if you're like some sort of wiring wizard which I am not, then it's probably not much of a big deal. It's like I said in the video for some of the people this is not going to be that informative or that helpful and then there's some of us like myself where this is to me. There's lots of times where if something is laid out in front of me then it starts to make sense. Then it starts adding up and it starts being something that I can work with when it's on paper. Sometimes it just doesn't transfer over to the real world. So anyway, I'm glad you found this useful and if there's any of further questions feel free to ask. God bless, have a great one!
You really helped to put it in perspective, I told my buddy that you won out of twelve people valid pros it seemed they where all keeping some secret . But you where breaking it down something that makes sense. Again I thank you for the gold . I'll stay tuned in , I love your bouquet of sparks by the way true art .Aloha from HAWAII. Peace brother
AWESOME!! I'm getting closer to adapting a 440 into a '88 Dakota reg cab, long bed. So, THANK YOU SOOOO MUCH for making this video (I'm not going to comment in your other video) Spent most of my 61yrs with Chevy and old Honda/imports. So this is going to help me get her bench-run. I have a harness from a old Winnebago Camper that had all the necessary stuff on a panel so going from there.. (if I can find it...)
WE ARE DOING A LEAN BURN CONVERSION ON A 77 NEW YORKER, THIS WAS VERY INFORMATIVE, THANK YOU SO MUCH! IF YOU COULD POST A SHORT VIDEO OR ANSWER WHICH WIRES YOU HOOKED UP TO BALLAST RESISTOR (THE RUN AND START WIRES IN DIRECTIONS) IN CAR WE WOULD APPRECIATE IT.
@@slantfish65sd Yeah, I'm doing a "lean-burnectomy" also. I've reviewed as carefully as I can the 1983 D150 factory manual's wiring diagrams. Trying VERY hard to not "let the smoke out" of this thing! The manual shows a pink wire from the "+" side of the coil going to the resistor and then on to the "Ball" terminal of the starter relay. This truck originally had a dual pickup distributor. I've now installed a single pickup dist.. The manual states these are "dual pickup starter relays". I'm still running some checks, but I suspect I can still "possibly" use the same starter Relay. Any help you can give is definitely appreciated! I'd love for you to shed some light on these specific areas when you do that Ramcharger, etc.
@@slantfish65sd My boyfriend owns a 1976 dodge Tioga rv. She's a short model. Anyways we are having problems with it starting up. It will turn over, but has no spark to start it. We have replaced the coils and checked the basics. Distributor, wires, plugs. Etc. Do you have any idea what else it could be.
Thank you for the video been many years since I've worked on older Dodge motors 32 ft motorhome for fifty bucks has no spark can I got 2 days to get it running you made the video very simple thank you😊
Thank you very much for that kind comment something else you may want to consider. I made a video showing how to use an HEI GM HEI module 4-pin module from like a mid-70s GM car truck and use it with the Mopar electronic ignition distributor plus a more modern coil like say something from a '90s Dodge truck or van Magnum engine and that produces a very healthy spark. Plus you don't have a ballast resistor that's going to go bad and wear out. Unfortunately, in today's world the ballast resistors and the ignition brain boxes don't seem to make it very long. Just your average dose of Chineseum
Well Mr. Green I thank you very much I really appreciate it and I'm not joking I'm not being sarcastic I just wanted to make a video showing how to do that job and how to just lay it out. Very simple like so that you could clearly and easily see where all the wires are supposed to go and how to demonstrate how it works or how to set it up so thank you again for your comments and have yourself a great day. If you have any further questions feel free to ask
The best thing to do is first to check the ignition timing and the coil is not supposed to have 12 volt to it its supposed to be 6-7 volts if it has 12 volts going to it for to long it can burn up the coil also check the grounds the ignition brain box is supposed to be grounded
Yes I do phone calls and conversations over the phone to help people out with their vehicles. You can email me at slantfish65sd@gmail.com and I will give you my phone number after you email me and then we can or you can give me your phone number and I will call you
Hey, thank you for watching the video. Really appreciate it. If you want to do a swap from points to electronic ignition, there is the traditional way of changing out the distributors for points to electronic ignition or you can use a pertronix setup. It comes in a kit. It allows you use the points distributor and convert everything inside to electronic ignition or there is also the MSD kit. MSD allows you to use the points distributor and maintain the points in the distributor and it triggers the electronic box the MSD box and then there is also Axel ignition. They also have a conversion kit to convert a points distributor to electronic
Hello Steven, the blue wire you're talking about is only supposed to go to your ballast resistor and it goes to one side of the baluster sister. Then there is another wire that you provide that comes from the other side of the ballast resistor and goes to the positive side of the coil. That is going to be the best way to run your ignition system. The reason why you want to go with the balance resistor is because it cuts down the voltage going to the coil and if you don't it could burn the coil up prematurely also in all of the diagrams I've been looking at there is a light blue with yellow tracer to ballast resistor in and there is a blue main ignition feed from engine harness and they both go to the same side of the ballast resistor and so if you have any of further questions feel free to ask. Thank you very much and thank you very much for watching and thank you for your comments. Have a great day
First of all I want to say thank you so much for watching the video and thank you for your comments really appreciate it. As for your 318, the best thing I can recommend for you too is to check the ignition timing or having checked with a timing light because you say it was misfiring and pinging and now it backfires and it doesn't make enough power to go down the interstate or freeway sounds like to me the ignition timing was very much advanced too far advanced and that was what was causing the misfiring. But it also sounds like that whoever worked on it they retarded the ignition timing. They may not have used any sort of turning light. Something else to be aware of is that Make sure that you're timing chain doesn't have too much slop in it. Too much wear. If it's worn too much it will cause problems with ignition timing and camshaft timing as well. Also make sure that the harmonic balancer outer ring hasn't slipped and is indicating the wrong timing marks. This is a little bit more involved and it doesn't take just a few minutes to fix this. This is something you have to pull a valve cover off for her and it's a little bit more involved but it's something that can be done and probably under an hour as far as luck what you should set your ignition timing to. I'm going to say probably about most of those engines LA Mopar small block, they're going to need their timing around 12-15 degrees before top dead center. Now that could vary. That is not an absolute okay. So you may need less ignition timing. Something like maybe 10 or 11:00 degrees? Or you may need more like 16, 17, maybe 18°. It just depends this is initial base ignition timing. Okay? Make sure when somebody is adjusting this ignition timing that the vacuum advances disconnected off of the distributor. If it isn't, then that can affect your overall readings and skew things okay, I hope that fixes your car. If it doesn't, let me know. Thank you very much. Have a great day. God bless
Hey, thank you very much for watching the video and thank you very much for your comments. As far as me not showing you how to set up and wire the electronic voltage regulator that wasn't part of this video. It clearly says in the title Mopar electronic ignition distributor setup and demonstration. It says nothing about the voltage regulator at all so unfortunately I'm not going to be able to electronic voltage regulator the voltage regulator is not part of the ignition system. It is only part of the voltage regulator system to regulate the amount of voltage coming out of the alternator granted. However, when you do go to electronic ignition, it is a good idea to step up and swap your voltage regulator from the point style that it originally came with and go to electronic voltage regulator but maybe I can cover that in the future video
Actually I did cover that in the video. I apologize for not getting back to you sooner. You may want to go back and watch the video multiple times two or three times. Just to make sure where the black and the gray wires go, it is very important and there are several good wiring diagrams online for the Chrysler Mopar electronic ignition system
i think he ment that you had black to yellow and gray to black instead of black to black on the distributer....does these two wires matter not black to black ?
I have a 1987 d150 318 I got a new carborator for it and it the closest I could find that I had in my 72 dodge dart years ago it's the carter style the 2280 holly just was too rich even after I rebuild it so I put on this new carb and it was great just had to change base plate gasket. So I took it on a trip and all of a sudden it started ideling rough and so I got it home and now it will fire right up after one pump on the gas peddle then it sets on fast idle and all is fine until I go to give it a kick down and it starts to run rough and shake then dies but will start back up if I use starting fluid but then after I give that kick starts all over with the rough again .what could my problem be you think? Thank you if you read this and any help would be great since il be faced with this this weekend😉
Be sure to check your basics idle screw settings idle mixture screws check for vacuum leaks check ignition timing and when you do start it up be sure to see if you can keep it running also check the float settings in the carb and the jets also the idle passages could be clogged with some kind of crud however the Holley 2280 carb is probably not the best option there are plenty of other really good other carbs out there that are two barrel that would be much better suited for your application
First, I'd like to say thank you very much for watching the video and thank you for your comments as how to convert from a four-pin ballast resistor to a 2-pin ballast resistor. Usually you would just use one side of a four-pin balance resistor or you would use a dedicated to pin balust resistor. Usually that is if you're going to go and trace the wires down. Make sure what they're going to in the vehicle now. The best way to really do that is to get a wiring diagram and figure out where the wires are going in your car which means you're going to have to have a really good service manual. Now. I would suggest to get a factory service manual. There's some companies that are selling them as reproductions. That is really the best way to go. However, I would settle for even a Hanes manual when there is nothing else that's better than nothing. That will at least get you started on the right track also, of course there is Chilton's manuals as well. They are usually better than Hanes again. Better that than nothing at all that what you really need is a factory service manual. Unfortunately I do not have any such thing. Some of the companies that sell reproduction parts for a lot of your mopars do sell the manuals as well. If you come up into handed that away, try googling it there might even be some people on eBay selling an original one
You probably have a lean bird ignition system on your 318 in your truck. These lean burn systems aren't the greatest. They're pretty limiting as to what you can do to make them better. Like if you want to like make changes like headers, camshaft, intake manifold carburetor you know to make more power or to improve efficiency they're really limiting. They don't do well with any of those modifications. You can use one of those distributors. With an electronic ignition system, but you're going to be locked into one timing setting. And if it's something that's going to be a street driver then you're going to not be very happy with it. If it was going to be a race on leave vehicle then okay. Yeah that would probably work but for something you're going to be driving on the street and you know using multi-purpose you're going to be pretty unhappy with it. If you're going to make changes to that truck like some of the changes I just talked about, I would run the lean burn ignition system that is currently on the truck. Until you get the parts you want to put on that engine then switch it over to an older style. Chrysler electronic ignition system or swamp it all over to a Mallory or MSD or Accel, electronic ignition system a pertronix or an HEI Davis unified ignition system Hope that helps. If there's any other questions let me know
@@slantfish65sd I think there’s a wiring harness that bypasses the lean burn system. I’d like to put a HEI destributer with a 4 barrel carb on mine. Another problem I’m facing is my transmission. The torque converter went out in my 86 d100. I come to find out it has a 904 in it which I didn’t think they put the 904 in 80s dodge truck because I can’t find any other one with the 904 in it. No part stores can get a torque converter for my truck. All the pops up is the 727 and the A518 torque converter
As far as I know I don't have any info on a wiring harness that bypasses the lean burn computer I do know that Jacobs electronics makes and sells a HEI distributor for the Mopars you can also wire up a GM HEI ignition module to work very well with a Mopar electronic vacuum advance distributor that setup eliminates the ballast resistor and the Mopar electronic ignition brain box as for your torque converter I would try to get one for a 904 like in a car that should work out fine you will need to figure out if you have a lockup or non lockup converter
Thank you very much for watching the video and thank you for your comment. However, I'm having a lot of trouble understanding the wording of your comment. The word uptake is that supposed to be update and then bypass coil. Not entirely sure what your suggesting. Leaving me with a lot of question marks here if you wouldn't mind and redoing the comment and maybe I can give you some better answers the way you're comment is right now. It's there's just nothing I can do with it. I definitely want to help you out but I just can't make heading or tails of your comment
No, it probably will not work on a positive ground system. It will have to be a 12-volt negative ground system. I want to thank you so much for watching the video and for your comment. If there's anything else I can do to help you, let me know
Well first of all thank you there blueflamenco because whether you realize it or not. Whenever you watch a video, if you comment on a video whether it's good or bad, it helps to video out. It helps out the algorithm so thank you. But if you don't like my accent, then I suggest don't watch people from Tennessee or from the south or the southeastern part of the United States because we all talk like that and as far as how I say stuff that's up to me. That's all on me because it's my video and I made it and if you don't like it again just don't watch it. Pretty simple concept. I'm not sure if you'll be able to get that, but you may have to do some thinking on that. Have a nice day!
![[TH] 2024 PMSL SEA Finals D3 | Fall | รู้ผลทีมแชมป์ พร้อมตั๋วสู่ PMGC](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/7NxsN0Ch6vk/mqdefault.jpg)
![Megan Thee Stallion - Neva Play (feat. RM) [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/TpYTyAaTRts/mqdefault.jpg)
😂thank you brother you have no idea how much you helped the ohana "family "
Hey Ronald, first of all I want to say thank you very much for watching the video. Thank you very much for your comments. Very much appreciated. And I want to also say that when it comes to setting up these electronic ignition systems, everybody offers this very basic very very basic wiring diagram. And I guess if you're like some sort of wiring wizard which I am not, then it's probably not much of a big deal. It's like I said in the video for some of the people this is not going to be that informative or that helpful and then there's some of us like myself where this is to me. There's lots of times where if something is laid out in front of me then it starts to make sense. Then it starts adding up and it starts being something that I can work with when it's on paper. Sometimes it just doesn't transfer over to the real world. So anyway, I'm glad you found this useful and if there's any of further questions feel free to ask. God bless, have a great one!
You really helped to put it in perspective, I told my buddy that you won out of twelve people valid pros it seemed they where all keeping some secret . But you where breaking it down something that makes sense. Again I thank you for the gold . I'll stay tuned in , I love your bouquet of sparks by the way true art .Aloha from HAWAII. Peace brother
AWESOME!! I'm getting closer to adapting a 440 into a '88 Dakota reg cab, long bed. So, THANK YOU SOOOO MUCH for making this video (I'm not going to comment in your other video) Spent most of my 61yrs with Chevy and old Honda/imports.
So this is going to help me get her bench-run. I have a harness from a old Winnebago Camper that had all the necessary stuff on a panel so going from there.. (if I can find it...)
@@blownaway4371 awesome! Sounds like a great project and thank you for your comments and thank you for watching the video
Thanks, been wanting to change this 83 318 dodge Miradas lean burn with this carb for a while now. Hope I can handle it
Thank you for a great explanation and greetings from Finland. I am building a -74 barracuda with 383.
Very cool! Would love to see the engine and car. If you can share some pictures of it that would be fantastic. Whether it's finished or not
Hell yea man I’m building a 73 roadrunner with a 440
Yeah you got them boys sparking....
Thank u it's the first video that actually showed me how to do it. Fu awesome. I can do it myself. Yeah
WE ARE DOING A LEAN BURN CONVERSION ON A 77 NEW YORKER, THIS WAS VERY INFORMATIVE, THANK YOU SO MUCH! IF YOU COULD POST A SHORT VIDEO OR ANSWER WHICH WIRES YOU HOOKED UP TO BALLAST RESISTOR (THE RUN AND START WIRES IN DIRECTIONS) IN CAR WE WOULD APPRECIATE IT.
Yes I will make another video of this very soon
And I will detail the wiring a little bit more
@@slantfish65sd Yeah, I'm doing a "lean-burnectomy" also. I've reviewed as carefully as I can the 1983 D150 factory manual's wiring diagrams.
Trying VERY hard to not "let the smoke out" of this thing! The manual shows a pink wire from the "+" side of the coil going to the resistor and then on to the "Ball" terminal of the starter relay.
This truck originally had a dual pickup distributor. I've now installed a single pickup dist..
The manual states these are "dual pickup starter relays". I'm still running some checks, but I suspect I can still "possibly" use the same starter Relay.
Any help you can give is definitely appreciated!
I'd love for you to shed some light on these specific areas when you do that Ramcharger, etc.
@@slantfish65sd My boyfriend owns a 1976 dodge Tioga rv. She's a short model. Anyways we are having problems with it starting up. It will turn over, but has no spark to start it. We have replaced the coils and checked the basics. Distributor, wires, plugs. Etc. Do you have any idea what else it could be.
Its a 318 v8. I'pretty sure
EXTREMELY helpful. Thank you for the educational content slantfish65sd!
Thank you for the video been many years since I've worked on older Dodge motors 32 ft motorhome for fifty bucks has no spark can I got 2 days to get it running you made the video very simple thank you😊
Thank you very much for that kind comment something else you may want to consider. I made a video showing how to use an HEI GM HEI module 4-pin module from like a mid-70s GM car truck and use it with the Mopar electronic ignition distributor plus a more modern coil like say something from a '90s Dodge truck or van Magnum engine and that produces a very healthy spark. Plus you don't have a ballast resistor that's going to go bad and wear out. Unfortunately, in today's world the ballast resistors and the ignition brain boxes don't seem to make it very long. Just your average dose of Chineseum
I like this video
Well Mr. Green I thank you very much I really appreciate it and I'm not joking I'm not being sarcastic I just wanted to make a video showing how to do that job and how to just lay it out. Very simple like so that you could clearly and easily see where all the wires are supposed to go and how to demonstrate how it works or how to set it up so thank you again for your comments and have yourself a great day. If you have any further questions feel free to ask
I have to subscribe on your channel because you did good 👍 job thank you
Cool video!!
The best thing to do is first to check the ignition timing and the coil is not supposed to have 12 volt to it its supposed to be 6-7 volts if it has 12 volts going to it for to long it can burn up the coil also check the grounds the ignition brain box is supposed to be grounded
awesome loved it
Another great video. Do you take quick phone calls 🤣👍🏽
Yes I do phone calls and conversations over the phone to help people out with their vehicles. You can email me at slantfish65sd@gmail.com and I will give you my phone number after you email me and then we can or you can give me your phone number and I will call you
Thank you
I want to know how to replace only the point system just like in the motorcycles.
Hey, thank you for watching the video. Really appreciate it. If you want to do a swap from points to electronic ignition, there is the traditional way of changing out the distributors for points to electronic ignition or you can use a pertronix setup. It comes in a kit. It allows you use the points distributor and convert everything inside to electronic ignition or there is also the MSD kit. MSD allows you to use the points distributor and maintain the points in the distributor and it triggers the electronic box the MSD box and then there is also Axel ignition. They also have a conversion kit to convert a points distributor to electronic
Thats cool
Thank you very very much
Can l run my blue wire to the positive side of my coil?
Hello Steven, the blue wire you're talking about is only supposed to go to your ballast resistor and it goes to one side of the baluster sister. Then there is another wire that you provide that comes from the other side of the ballast resistor and goes to the positive side of the coil. That is going to be the best way to run your ignition system. The reason why you want to go with the balance resistor is because it cuts down the voltage going to the coil and if you don't it could burn the coil up prematurely also in all of the diagrams I've been looking at there is a light blue with yellow tracer to ballast resistor in and there is a blue main ignition feed from engine harness and they both go to the same side of the ballast resistor and so if you have any of further questions feel free to ask. Thank you very much and thank you very much for watching and thank you for your comments. Have a great day
My 318 misfires and pings any advice o that took it into shop to get timing and ignition done cans get on freeway without backfire
First of all I want to say thank you so much for watching the video and thank you for your comments really appreciate it. As for your 318, the best thing I can recommend for you too is to check the ignition timing or having checked with a timing light because you say it was misfiring and pinging and now it backfires and it doesn't make enough power to go down the interstate or freeway sounds like to me the ignition timing was very much advanced too far advanced and that was what was causing the misfiring. But it also sounds like that whoever worked on it they retarded the ignition timing. They may not have used any sort of turning light. Something else to be aware of is that Make sure that you're timing chain doesn't have too much slop in it. Too much wear. If it's worn too much it will cause problems with ignition timing and camshaft timing as well. Also make sure that the harmonic balancer outer ring hasn't slipped and is indicating the wrong timing marks. This is a little bit more involved and it doesn't take just a few minutes to fix this. This is something you have to pull a valve cover off for her and it's a little bit more involved but it's something that can be done and probably under an hour as far as luck what you should set your ignition timing to. I'm going to say probably about most of those engines LA Mopar small block, they're going to need their timing around 12-15 degrees before top dead center. Now that could vary. That is not an absolute okay. So you may need less ignition timing. Something like maybe 10 or 11:00 degrees? Or you may need more like 16, 17, maybe 18°. It just depends this is initial base ignition timing. Okay? Make sure when somebody is adjusting this ignition timing that the vacuum advances disconnected off of the distributor. If it isn't, then that can affect your overall readings and skew things okay, I hope that fixes your car. If it doesn't, let me know. Thank you very much. Have a great day. God bless
Your missing the voltage regulator set up. Ugh.
Hey, thank you very much for watching the video and thank you very much for your comments. As far as me not showing you how to set up and wire the electronic voltage regulator that wasn't part of this video. It clearly says in the title Mopar electronic ignition distributor setup and demonstration. It says nothing about the voltage regulator at all so unfortunately I'm not going to be able to electronic voltage regulator the voltage regulator is not part of the ignition system. It is only part of the voltage regulator system to regulate the amount of voltage coming out of the alternator granted. However, when you do go to electronic ignition, it is a good idea to step up and swap your voltage regulator from the point style that it originally came with and go to electronic voltage regulator but maybe I can cover that in the future video
When you wire up own system does it matter which way the grey and the black wire go?
Actually I did cover that in the video. I apologize for not getting back to you sooner. You may want to go back and watch the video multiple times two or three times. Just to make sure where the black and the gray wires go, it is very important and there are several good wiring diagrams online for the Chrysler Mopar electronic ignition system
Also, thank you for watching and have a great set of holidays
No worries brother, I appreciate you taking the time to get back to me, Merry Christmas and Happy New Year
i think he ment that you had black to yellow and gray to black instead of black to black on the distributer....does these two wires matter not black to black ?
I have a 1987 d150 318 I got a new carborator for it and it the closest I could find that I had in my 72 dodge dart years ago it's the carter style the 2280 holly just was too rich even after I rebuild it so I put on this new carb and it was great just had to change base plate gasket. So I took it on a trip and all of a sudden it started ideling rough and so I got it home and now it will fire right up after one pump on the gas peddle then it sets on fast idle and all is fine until I go to give it a kick down and it starts to run rough and shake then dies but will start back up if I use starting fluid but then after I give that kick starts all over with the rough again .what could my problem be you think? Thank you if you read this and any help would be great since il be faced with this this weekend😉
Be sure to check your basics idle screw settings idle mixture screws check for vacuum leaks check ignition timing and when you do start it up be sure to see if you can keep it running also check the float settings in the carb and the jets also the idle passages could be clogged with some kind of crud however the Holley 2280 carb is probably not the best option there are plenty of other really good other carbs out there that are two barrel that would be much better suited for your application
How to convert to pln resister 4 pl to two pin on orange box sytem on 69 rt has 4 pin resister
First, I'd like to say thank you very much for watching the video and thank you for your comments as how to convert from a four-pin ballast resistor to a 2-pin ballast resistor. Usually you would just use one side of a four-pin balance resistor or you would use a dedicated to pin balust resistor. Usually that is if you're going to go and trace the wires down. Make sure what they're going to in the vehicle now. The best way to really do that is to get a wiring diagram and figure out where the wires are going in your car which means you're going to have to have a really good service manual. Now. I would suggest to get a factory service manual. There's some companies that are selling them as reproductions. That is really the best way to go. However, I would settle for even a Hanes manual when there is nothing else that's better than nothing. That will at least get you started on the right track also, of course there is Chilton's manuals as well. They are usually better than Hanes again. Better that than nothing at all that what you really need is a factory service manual. Unfortunately I do not have any such thing. Some of the companies that sell reproduction parts for a lot of your mopars do sell the manuals as well. If you come up into handed that away, try googling it there might even be some people on eBay selling an original one
Why doesn’t mine have the vacuum advance on the distributor? I have an 86 d100 with the 318
You probably have a lean bird ignition system on your 318 in your truck. These lean burn systems aren't the greatest. They're pretty limiting as to what you can do to make them better. Like if you want to like make changes like headers, camshaft, intake manifold carburetor you know to make more power or to improve efficiency they're really limiting. They don't do well with any of those modifications. You can use one of those distributors. With an electronic ignition system, but you're going to be locked into one timing setting. And if it's something that's going to be a street driver then you're going to not be very happy with it. If it was going to be a race on leave vehicle then okay. Yeah that would probably work but for something you're going to be driving on the street and you know using multi-purpose you're going to be pretty unhappy with it. If you're going to make changes to that truck like some of the changes I just talked about, I would run the lean burn ignition system that is currently on the truck. Until you get the parts you want to put on that engine then switch it over to an older style. Chrysler electronic ignition system or swamp it all over to a Mallory or MSD or Accel, electronic ignition system a pertronix or an HEI Davis unified ignition system Hope that helps. If there's any other questions let me know
@@slantfish65sd I think there’s a wiring harness that bypasses the lean burn system. I’d like to put a HEI destributer with a 4 barrel carb on mine. Another problem I’m facing is my transmission. The torque converter went out in my 86 d100. I come to find out it has a 904 in it which I didn’t think they put the 904 in 80s dodge truck because I can’t find any other one with the 904 in it. No part stores can get a torque converter for my truck. All the pops up is the 727 and the A518 torque converter
As far as I know I don't have any info on a wiring harness that bypasses the lean burn computer I do know that Jacobs electronics makes and sells a HEI distributor for the Mopars you can also wire up a GM HEI ignition module to work very well with a Mopar electronic vacuum advance distributor that setup eliminates the ballast resistor and the Mopar electronic ignition brain box as for your torque converter I would try to get one for a 904 like in a car that should work out fine you will need to figure out if you have a lockup or non lockup converter
Why can’t uptake the box off n bypass coil only
Thank you very much for watching the video and thank you for your comment. However, I'm having a lot of trouble understanding the wording of your comment. The word uptake is that supposed to be update and then bypass coil. Not entirely sure what your suggesting. Leaving me with a lot of question marks here if you wouldn't mind and redoing the comment and maybe I can give you some better answers the way you're comment is right now. It's there's just nothing I can do with it. I definitely want to help you out but I just can't make heading or tails of your comment
Ook
Will this work on a positive ground car?
No, it probably will not work on a positive ground system. It will have to be a 12-volt negative ground system. I want to thank you so much for watching the video and for your comment. If there's anything else I can do to help you, let me know
Thanks but I turn my key on, not awn. :)
Well first of all thank you there blueflamenco because whether you realize it or not. Whenever you watch a video, if you comment on a video whether it's good or bad, it helps to video out. It helps out the algorithm so thank you. But if you don't like my accent, then I suggest don't watch people from Tennessee or from the south or the southeastern part of the United States because we all talk like that and as far as how I say stuff that's up to me. That's all on me because it's my video and I made it and if you don't like it again just don't watch it. Pretty simple concept. I'm not sure if you'll be able to get that, but you may have to do some thinking on that. Have a nice day!
@@slantfish65sd I put the :) there for a reason.