regarding the calculation of wax for the sculpture, you can calculate the volume of wax needed easily by water displacement. fill a container to the absolute brim with water, put it in another container that can catch overflow. then put in your object. make sure it's completely covered by water. the water that overflows into the outer container is the exact volume of the object. you can then use that volume to measure out a different liquid, in this case, wax.
A tip for the wick Robert, dip it in the hot wax and hang it to dry before you fix it in the mould, it makes it much simpler and becomes self-supporting. You also get an actual "wick" not a "piece of string" when you de-mould it.
Thanks Robert. Perfect timing, I am making a David mould for a candle maker client next week, sculpture arrived this afternoon. Today's video will save me plenty of time. Thank you. Best Regards Jez
I'm in my sixth year of teaching. I normally do EMT classes, but have gotten myself into prosthetics now. I am being trained in a lot of different fields that encompass this area of Medical technology. One of the fields, and the one I am most interested in, is creating synthetic skin using lifelike silicone. I love this channel already and I am going to watch everything you have! Thank you!
I called the wax supply house, and asked if they carried: "Magnificent, Beautiful, Sticky Wax"; the length of the pause from their end of the phone was hysterically uncomfortable. LOL!!!
This is the best molding and casting channel I found and if you were here on youtube years ago, I would avoid many mistakes and save so much time. Thank you for teaching us. Watching your results, I will now be cutting molds as first option from now.
To avoid bubbles you could carfully slushcast the first part to make sure all of the holes and pockets are filled after which you fill up the remainder of the model.
Sir, you deserve my sub. I am very delighted to see an older gentleman in the workshop enjoying interesting projects while sharing his knowledge and experience.
Great mold and video, very thorough. A couple of tips for you, which you're probably already aware of; A cheap (ebay) pair of medical retractors act as a second pair of hands when cutting open the mould - helpful when scalpels are close to fingers. Soft clay in a syringe with the needle removed creates great spaghetti like 'worms' to seal around mold bases. Cheers Robert.
Bravo, that sure was something new. I tried wax casting and found that controling the right pour temprature can be a problem. I think that moderate heating of the mold does help in some ways. Still amazing to see what some folk artists can do with this medium. Wax has been used as a casting compound producing religious folk articles (figurines, angels etc.) for ages. As I understand there are a lot of old secret formulars and ingrediants around, kept secret outside the family. If you make it to Germany, Bavaria is a good place to look around for wax art. Makes one speechless to see what castings once where (and still are) mass produced without the aid of a pressure pot etc. I think pressure wasn´t even in this world than .... Great Show as usual - looking forward to next friday.
My father would make sealed molds by pouring another thin layer around the seal, and have them suspended in boiling water. One wick hole filled tight, you can let the wax settle without melting immediately. Then you you can easily tear it back open. Turn off the hot water, walk away. He made a lot of
Mannnn I can't even right now! ♥️😆🤗 I decided to watch 3 hrs of mold making on TH-cam (because well why not at 3am with insomnia lol). Not only did you make me smile, laugh and learn you added alot of love to your tutorials. ♥️ A breath of fresh air if I must say! Thank you for helping me get over my frustration with mold making! Next... Must learn how to make molds for earring tunnels and earring plugs! ♥️Thank you Sir and keep doing what you're doing!
Great Work Robert! Mostly I do CAD modeling, 3D printing, and blow/injection molding models, but you have really influenced me to want to try silicone casting!
I have cast toy dog heads in wax for a project in art school. To get out some of the voids out i poured out the hot wax after it coated the inner surface. Then filled after the inner core cooled.
I watched to see if making my own molds for candle making was feasible, so obviously I've never made a mild before. I've bought plenty of pre-made molds and the advice for wax is always to slightly pre-heat the mold. Hope that helps ❤. Thank you for this video even if you only rated your end product a B-😊!
Nice to see a simple cut mould . When you held up the original and the casting , even before you said it I could see the shrinkage . Thanks for something different. Hope you're well mate .
That was a fun watch, thanks Robert! I've got a book called Pop Sculpture about making figurines and collectibles, and they use wax castings during the refinement process. The way they avoid shrinkage, distortion, and loss of detail is preheating the mold in the microwave as well as doing pressure casting. This necessitates a small reservoir of extra wax to fill in as the shrink occurs, like a larger pour funnel integrated into the mold. They also use crayons (white + desired color) in the wax batch to pigment the sculpture's surface and get it more visible, but I'm not sure if those pigments are safe to burn in a candle.
Yes, a reservoir is a good idea. I often rough out a sculpt in clay then re-cast it in sculpting wax to do the final work. In those cases I make the clay sculpture 8 to 10% oversized and place it on a reservoir base. Of course, I am casting it in sculpting wax which has a lot of solids. That reduces the amount of shrink and preserves the detail. I pressure cast it to remove bubbles and also heat the mold so that the wax doesn’t cool while it is being poured into the mold. Still, it shrinks enough to be noticeable.
Michelangelo starting David at 26 may kill you, but seeing you making such interesting things at an age older than me gives me hope for what my future might look like someday too. Love the channel, love all your vids. Thanks for what you do!
Well of course!! I enjoy ( so much) watching you tackle new projects and using different crafting materials. It is such a pleasure to watch your videos and they are SO helpful as well. Thank you!!
your channel is so wonderful thank you for sharing knowledge for artists like me who want to do mold making! Your tips and tricks save us lots of wasted rubber!
I expected worse. I've made candles and there is ussually a deep divot down the center and once fill it it has its own divot. You do it a few times. Lots of regular like votive candles are compressed sort of powdered wax.
I was just introduced to the channel a few days ago… I’ve been watching a lot of them since… i love the information and how you deliver it. I’m curious about approaching a mold of a reverse light housing for an old car.. would love your input. Thanks for the channel
You got new subscriber!. I enjoyed a lot how do you managed to make it works, and you are sharing your experience so naturally, congratulations. Here a cuban guy learning from you :D
Interesting to see wax used for casting, I am not sure about Noura’s choice of David, I think Michael Jackson or Joan of Arc would’ve been good subjects for Candle making.
The proper technique is to use a wick needle and just poke a hole and pull the wick through. I don’t have a wick needle, so I cut the parting line to the top of the head and just secured the wick between the halves of the mold.
@@RobertTolone Hi Robert, watch you a lot. Great stuff. I made a candle mould for a client and created the wick hole with just a thin wire pushed through the top of the mould after curing. Use the same wire with a looped end to insert the wick. The silicon just closes and holds the wick in place.
I wonder if there would be a way to 3D print the object with more volume than intended so that when the wax shrinks it ends up with the proper proportion and detail. Like an embroidery machine, when creating a digital design you have to overcompensate the size and stretch the image to account for the shrinkage that happens when stitching tightens the material during embroidery and shrinks the image
Nice work! But there is one thing I don't really understand. You have a perfect mould case from when you made the mould but you don't use it for the cast. Would it not make it easier to get even pressure on the mould than with the rubber bands alone?
That is an excellent question Christian. The reason I don’t use it is because it can be difficult to perfectly align the rubber mold with the original case. Also inside the case I cannot see the parting lines. I like to be able to massage, prod and poke the rubber mold into a proper alignment along the parting line. When you cannot see the parting line you can’t tell if it is aligned with certainty.
Great result Robert. I wonder....if you put the molten wax under pressure to shrink bubbles, would they then suddenly release/expand as the candle burns?
Robert could using a surfactant to help aid surface tension and cut down the bubbles? If yes what would you use? Also would warming the mold up help when pouring hot material?
I don’t know of any surfactant that would help and I am always leery of extra materials in the process. When casting wax it is very helpful to warm the mold.
i would look for some sort of color additive that works well with wax it just doesn't have the same quality of the dramatic lighting and shadows that the original does
Very interesting. Looks like the casting is a thinner, angrier distant cousin to David, probably because he isn’t quite as famous. The loss of detail was a big surprise.
Love your videos Robert. How come you didn't just put the 2 carboard parts back together as a mold case for pouring? Are the several rubber bands on the rubber better than encasing it back in that cardboard tube shell? Thanks!
It’s usually a pain to get the mold back into the case that formed it and also it obscures my view of the parting line. I like to be able to see the parting line and make sure that it is correctly aligned as I put on the rubber bands. And finally, it’s an extra step that is not necessary.
Robert, I follow your channel and your tips have helped me make better castings. I make mostly resin cast bits and pieces for classic car restorations for parts that are no longer available. Resins that cure very hard are brittle when the casting is thin. Have you ever added milled glass fiber to resin to increase the strength of parts? Thanks, Ben
I have experimented with various additives to modify the resin characteristics. Usually the only difficulty is they can make the resin less viscous and more difficult to pour. I always follow the manufacturers instructions as to the maximum amount of material that can be added to the resin.
what type of wax did you use on the cardboard tube to act as a release agent? and why not use a pencil to indicate where to cut the mould, seems more logical to me?
When you get ready to use the mold would it help to reuse the cardboard edges held in place with the rubber bands? I think that would help prevent shape distortions.
I don’t like to use the mold case under the rubber bands because it prevents me from seeing the parting lines. I like to see the lines so I can adjust them and make sure they’re tight. If the rubber bands are applied properly they should not distort the mold.
![ทุกครั้งที่หลับตา (Lucid Dream) - AYLA's [ Official MV ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4i1OBAQyv58/mqdefault.jpg)
The Bob Ross of the waxing world. What an adorable human being ✨
He’s my favorite ❤
So nice to see an older youtuber sharing their experience and skills! 💗
FYI-"older" people have a lot more knowledge than younger ones.
regarding the calculation of wax for the sculpture, you can calculate the volume of wax needed easily by water displacement.
fill a container to the absolute brim with water, put it in another container that can catch overflow. then put in your object. make sure it's completely covered by water. the water that overflows into the outer container is the exact volume of the object. you can then use that volume to measure out a different liquid, in this case, wax.
A tip for the wick Robert, dip it in the hot wax and hang it to dry before you fix it in the mould, it makes it much simpler and becomes self-supporting. You also get an actual "wick" not a "piece of string" when you de-mould it.
Great idea!
you dont make boring videos, nice lessons. all thumbs up!!
Thanks Robert. Perfect timing, I am making a David mould for a candle maker client next week, sculpture arrived this afternoon. Today's video will save me plenty of time. Thank you. Best Regards Jez
We’re living in parallel universes Jez.
Aren’t you glad she didn’t send you Medusa 😂 still over all it came out pretty good!
I love Medusa! ❤
I'm in my sixth year of teaching. I normally do EMT classes, but have gotten myself into prosthetics now. I am being trained in a lot of different fields that encompass this area of Medical technology. One of the fields, and the one I am most interested in, is creating synthetic skin using lifelike silicone. I love this channel already and I am going to watch everything you have! Thank you!
Thanks for watching Tyler!
I called the wax supply house, and asked if they carried: "Magnificent, Beautiful, Sticky Wax"; the length of the pause from their end of the phone was hysterically uncomfortable. LOL!!!
Sometimes you get some ignoramus on the phone who fails to appreciate the splendors of sticky wax! 😄
This is the best molding and casting channel I found and if you were here on youtube years ago, I would avoid many mistakes and save so much time. Thank you for teaching us. Watching your results, I will now be cutting molds as first option from now.
To avoid bubbles you could carfully slushcast the first part to make sure all of the holes and pockets are filled after which you fill up the remainder of the model.
Wow, you are truly amazing. The tutorial was perfect, the best I've seen. I was just excited as you. Thanks for making my day!
I love how you MacGyver little obstacle that come your way.
Great video!
Haha, thanks Henry!
Bob and Dave. Wonderful combination. Thank you.
Dammit! I could have titled the video Bob and Dave’s Big Adventure!
@@RobertTolone 🤣
Sir, you deserve my sub. I am very delighted to see an older gentleman in the workshop enjoying interesting projects while sharing his knowledge and experience.
Great mold and video, very thorough. A couple of tips for you, which you're probably already aware of; A cheap (ebay) pair of medical retractors act as a second pair of hands when cutting open the mould - helpful when scalpels are close to fingers. Soft clay in a syringe with the needle removed creates great spaghetti like 'worms' to seal around mold bases. Cheers Robert.
Bravo, that sure was something new. I tried wax casting and found that controling the right pour temprature can be a problem.
I think that moderate heating of the mold does help in some ways. Still amazing to see what some folk artists can do with this medium. Wax has been used as a casting compound producing religious folk articles (figurines, angels etc.) for ages. As I understand there are a lot of old secret formulars and ingrediants around, kept secret outside the family. If you make it to Germany, Bavaria is a good place to look around for wax art. Makes one speechless to see what castings once where (and still are) mass produced without the aid of a pressure pot etc. I think pressure wasn´t even in this world than ....
Great Show as usual - looking forward to next friday.
My father would make sealed molds by pouring another thin layer around the seal, and have them suspended in boiling water. One wick hole filled tight, you can let the wax settle without melting immediately. Then you you can easily tear it back open.
Turn off the hot water, walk away. He made a lot of
Mannnn I can't even right now! ♥️😆🤗 I decided to watch 3 hrs of mold making on TH-cam (because well why not at 3am with insomnia lol). Not only did you make me smile, laugh and learn you added alot of love to your tutorials. ♥️ A breath of fresh air if I must say! Thank you for helping me get over my frustration with mold making! Next... Must learn how to make molds for earring tunnels and earring plugs! ♥️Thank you Sir and keep doing what you're doing!
Glad you like my videos; thanks for the nice comment!
You are the Bob Ross of casting
Great Work Robert! Mostly I do CAD modeling, 3D printing, and blow/injection molding models, but you have really influenced me to want to try silicone casting!
Give it a try! It’s a lot of fun. Thanks for watching my videos.
Is it alright to not vacuum seal while curing?
Excellent video. Good film quality with good light, nice closeups and good overall video timing
I have cast toy dog heads in wax for a project in art school. To get out some of the voids out i poured out the hot wax after it coated the inner surface. Then filled after the inner core cooled.
I watched to see if making my own molds for candle making was feasible, so obviously I've never made a mild before. I've bought plenty of pre-made molds and the advice for wax is always to slightly pre-heat the mold. Hope that helps ❤. Thank you for this video even if you only rated your end product a B-😊!
No matter how old we get it is always good to learn something new. Doc BC
Fanito! You had me at that!
Nice to see a simple cut mould . When you held up the original and the casting , even before you said it I could see the shrinkage . Thanks for something different. Hope you're well mate .
All is well Glen. Thanks.
If you need a 31 year old son, I’m up for grabs.
Thanks for teaching me how to make a candle dad !
That was thoroughly enjoyable to watch. Very succinct and Robert I could listen to you all day.
That's most beautiful tutorial I have ever saw.. thanks master
That was a fun watch, thanks Robert!
I've got a book called Pop Sculpture about making figurines and collectibles, and they use wax castings during the refinement process. The way they avoid shrinkage, distortion, and loss of detail is preheating the mold in the microwave as well as doing pressure casting. This necessitates a small reservoir of extra wax to fill in as the shrink occurs, like a larger pour funnel integrated into the mold. They also use crayons (white + desired color) in the wax batch to pigment the sculpture's surface and get it more visible, but I'm not sure if those pigments are safe to burn in a candle.
Yes, a reservoir is a good idea. I often rough out a sculpt in clay then re-cast it in sculpting wax to do the final work. In those cases I make the clay sculpture 8 to 10% oversized and place it on a reservoir base. Of course, I am casting it in sculpting wax which has a lot of solids. That reduces the amount of shrink and preserves the detail. I pressure cast it to remove bubbles and also heat the mold so that the wax doesn’t cool while it is being poured into the mold. Still, it shrinks enough to be noticeable.
Pro Tip @14:24 Knowing what i thought i knew...I would have over looked that. I learned something new.
Really neat! I have been wanting to make my wife some candles that smell really good like this. Can't wait to try this method.
Robert I loved watching this. Great information. I want to make candle molds and you definitely inspire me.
Michelangelo starting David at 26 may kill you, but seeing you making such interesting things at an age older than me gives me hope for what my future might look like someday too. Love the channel, love all your vids. Thanks for what you do!
Old artists never retire; they just die in their studios and hope somebody notices!
@@RobertTolone I love that quote!
Nice result Robert and not a shred of 'duct tape' to be seen. Cheers!
You are a master in your craft !!!
Only if a master is someone who never stops trying to learn and improve.
Well of course!! I enjoy ( so much) watching you tackle new projects and using different crafting materials. It is such a pleasure to watch your videos and they are SO helpful as well. Thank you!!
your channel is so wonderful thank you for sharing knowledge for artists like me who want to do mold making! Your tips and tricks save us lots of wasted rubber!
So glad you find the channel useful! Thanks.
You're amazing !! Love it.
Please I would love to know all the product to use. 🇨🇦😁
Came out amazing Dora got a amazing eye sight thank you guys for this video!!
That shrinkage tho. wow. did not expect that.
I expected worse. I've made candles and there is ussually a deep divot down the center and once fill it it has its own divot. You do it a few times.
Lots of regular like votive candles are compressed sort of powdered wax.
@@chartle1 I have a silicone mold and poured lead into it.(yes 360°c Hot)
I also made a pour with gipsum/cement. Guess which one is bigger!
Belethor's goods anyone? Some may call this junk, me I call them treasures.
Awesome video. Really informative. The wax is such a good idea.
This was fantastic.
I love it! 😍
I’m going to try using my molds to make a candle.
it's great to see you Robert!! As always it's another great tutorial!!!
Thanks Melo!
Fantastic video . I plan to cast some 1/25 wheel set. This was extremely helpful.
Thanks Rob.
You’re the best man! The absolute best
Im ordering some wax right now! This looks like a fun weekend project. Great video as always
Let us know how it turns out!
Great teacher! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching!
Did you make a hole for the wick in the mold?
im loving this channel
Very cute and informative video, thanks a lot for sharing 🥰🥰
I want a mold like that!!!! I’ve been wanting to make candles of that exactly but bigger
Thank you so much for you amazing videos!
I was just introduced to the channel a few days ago… I’ve been watching a lot of them since… i love the information and how you deliver it. I’m curious about approaching a mold of a reverse light housing for an old car.. would love your input. Thanks for the channel
this infomration is so useful. thank you very much!
I'm new to stuff like this. and you did well😄.
I hope you always healthy❤️❤️
You got new subscriber!. I enjoyed a lot how do you managed to make it works, and you are sharing your experience so naturally, congratulations. Here a cuban guy learning from you :D
Interesting to see wax used for casting, I am not sure about Noura’s choice of David, I think Michael Jackson or Joan of Arc would’ve been good subjects for Candle making.
Nice to see that even you do something completely new sometimes, that you've never done before. :-D
Another great video!
I have learnt a lot from your videos and am about to embark on my first silicone mold of a metal skull gear stick knob ...wish me luck
so neat! thanks for sharing
Nice Video!
Take a shot every time he says "catch a bubble" 😂 great video, mate! 👍
great video
Nice cast! Love this vid. Wonderful make
Where are you getting your wax from and what's it called?
I’m really enjoying all your videos informative educational and all-around excellent thank you so much
Another great video Robert, having a warm mold helps when candle making. Im guessing you made a hole to pull the wick through the top?
The proper technique is to use a wick needle and just poke a hole and pull the wick through. I don’t have a wick needle, so I cut the parting line to the top of the head and just secured the wick between the halves of the mold.
@@RobertTolone Hi Robert, watch you a lot. Great stuff. I made a candle mould for a client and created the wick hole with just a thin wire pushed through the top of the mould after curing. Use the same wire with a looped end to insert the wick. The silicon just closes and holds the wick in place.
How cool is that ✅
Question; If you placed the original upside down-wouldn't that (mostly) eliminate potential bubbles?
Super cool! Do you use wax because it's sustainable? Can you actually reuse the waxed boards and cardboard you coat or do you discard them?
Next time: must light candle at end of video.
I wonder if there would be a way to 3D print the object with more volume than intended so that when the wax shrinks it ends up with the proper proportion and detail. Like an embroidery machine, when creating a digital design you have to overcompensate the size and stretch the image to account for the shrinkage that happens when stitching tightens the material during embroidery and shrinks the image
Great show! Thanks!
Can one use a hair dryer on hot instead of the heat gun?
Impressive!
Nice work!
But there is one thing I don't really understand. You have a perfect mould case from when you made the mould but you don't use it for the cast. Would it not make it easier to get even pressure on the mould than with the rubber bands alone?
That is an excellent question Christian. The reason I don’t use it is because it can be difficult to perfectly align the rubber mold with the original case. Also inside the case I cannot see the parting lines. I like to be able to massage, prod and poke the rubber mold into a proper alignment along the parting line. When you cannot see the parting line you can’t tell if it is aligned with certainty.
@@RobertTolone thank you for your answer. Now I see the sense in your decision.
Great result Robert. I wonder....if you put the molten wax under pressure to shrink bubbles, would they then suddenly release/expand as the candle burns?
I don’t thinks so but I’ve never tried it!
Man you are such a cool dude I love your videos.
Hey, thanks for watching!
Robert could using a surfactant to help aid surface tension and cut down the bubbles? If yes what would you use? Also would warming the mold up help when pouring hot material?
I don’t know of any surfactant that would help and I am always leery of extra materials in the process. When casting wax it is very helpful to warm the mold.
all ways fun to watch ur video sr 😃👍
Thanks Julio!
what do you call the electric device to fix the bubbles?
It is a Foredom Wax Carving Pen.
Very nice explan
Experimente encher este molde com resina cristal, ficará maravilhoso também.
Wonderful! Thank you.
Thanks Paul!
Could you do this with monster clay? Since it is a wax based castelline?
i would look for some sort of color additive that works well with wax it just doesn't have the same quality of the dramatic lighting and shadows that the original does
Very interesting. Looks like the casting is a thinner, angrier distant cousin to David, probably because he isn’t quite as famous. The loss of detail was a big surprise.
Dave’s cousin Larry. Bitter and jealous of his handsome famous cousin!
Love this dude! Doesn't he sound like Red Green?
Love your videos Robert. How come you didn't just put the 2 carboard parts back together as a mold case for pouring? Are the several rubber bands on the rubber better than encasing it back in that cardboard tube shell? Thanks!
It’s usually a pain to get the mold back into the case that formed it and also it obscures my view of the parting line. I like to be able to see the parting line and make sure that it is correctly aligned as I put on the rubber bands. And finally, it’s an extra step that is not necessary.
Hey! I’m trying to cast an 8 inch pleaser stiletto and running into some issues with the straps ! Any tips ???
Robert, I follow your channel and your tips have helped me make better castings. I make mostly resin cast bits and pieces for classic car restorations for parts that are no longer available. Resins that cure very hard are brittle when the casting is thin. Have you ever added milled glass fiber to resin to increase the strength of parts? Thanks, Ben
I have experimented with various additives to modify the resin characteristics. Usually the only difficulty is they can make the resin less viscous and more difficult to pour. I always follow the manufacturers instructions as to the maximum amount of material that can be added to the resin.
I want to make of a candle jar vessel mold out of a mug? How does that happen?
Question, why do you use rubber instead of silicone for mold? I am just starting learning to mk molds so I have no idea.
What product do you use to make the silicone mold,? Great video!
Econosil-25 silicone rubber from www.Silpak.com
what type of wax did you use on the cardboard tube to act as a release agent? and why not use a pencil to indicate where to cut the mould, seems more logical to me?
Where can I get hold of some cheap but good mold rubber?
When you get ready to use the mold would it help to reuse the cardboard edges held in place with the rubber bands? I think that would help prevent shape distortions.
I don’t like to use the mold case under the rubber bands because it prevents me from seeing the parting lines. I like to see the lines so I can adjust them and make sure they’re tight. If the rubber bands are applied properly they should not distort the mold.