I feel like a thank you just isn't enough for all the knowledge you've been able to pass on via these videos. Your methods of diagnosis, the video angles, the detailed explanations of each step, it's all just so well done. Thank you so much.
50's Kid is so helpful!!! Clearly explained in a foolproof manner. I watch this guy everytime I need to do a DIY Job on one of my 3 BMW e46 cars & has saved me a fortune! With help like this why would you ever need to buy a new car as looked after they go on forever. Keep up the good work, much appreciated Stevie M
This helped out a lot when replacing mine. Unfortunately my boot clamps were different and not as easy. For the torque specs, the outer tie rod to the knuckle is actually 48 ft lbs. The center nut where the tie rods connects is 33 ft lbs.
I know this is an old video but I did this today, and my only comment is that pounding and trying to shock the tie rod loose didn't work for me. I ended up keeping the old nut a few threads on and pounding on the nut from above.
What does it depend on whether the new tie rod has a rubber ring at one end? The one you removed didn't have it. Good job my friend. Thank you so much from Spain.
FWIW, places like Autozone will lend a Tie Rod and Pitman Arm Puller for free so one doesn't need to use the huge hammer. Beyond that, your video (and your other videos) are very helpful. Thanks.
I am envious of the fact whoever owns this car has an E46 with no rust on it! I just did the same job and it was a total pain because every single thing was rusted to fuck. What took him less than 3 minutes took me about 3 hours just having to blow torch everything that was seized in place i.e everything I touched. :-/ The UK environment does bad things to cars.
Thank you so much for these videos. I think we all can agree your way of explaining diagnosing issues is great. Thank you again. I can do this myself now
Just did tie rod on my X5. Actually there should be some twisting play on the outer tie rod, thats why its on a balljoint. Where there shouldnt be play is the in and out motion as when you did the 3-9o'clock test. Mine didnt have any play, just alot of squeaking from the ball joint.
Question Jason, I seen lots of others torque the outer tie rod end nut to 48 foot pounds an I did mine the same . I just watched yours . You recommend loosing it and re-torque it to 33 ft pounds or just leave it ? Thanks
If I'm just replacing a boot. Can't I leave the Tie-Rod Threaded where its at,,, and the Replacement version of the new boot with the big mouth design slip over the Rack Nut End of the Shaft So I don't loose my alignment?
Thanks! Just reassembling a E46 'purple' rack which I acquired disassembled to go on my 318. It looks as if this rack doesn't use a lock tab between the inner ball joint and the rack shaft (most earlier models of rack do). I was going nuts searching on Ebay for locktabs for it. :)
Great! I wish you have also showed us if there is any play with the new part: if you could move the wheel at 9 and 3 or if you could twist the tie rod. On my car, just on the ground, with the wheel turned to the max, I can grab the tie rod and twist it left and right. There is no sound but, it still feels like it should not twist!
I have a 2008 x3 Si and I hit the curb the other day cause a car pulled out in front of me and I had to move out of the way. Both tires on the right side hit but the back tire hit so hard that it bent the control arm. I had the control arm replaced, normally I do this myself but had no time so had to take it to the shop. When they went to do the alignment they're telling me that the tie rod on the passengers side won't go in all the way and that the steering is off by about 4 mm. Is this related to me hitting the curb or just typical problem on older x 3's? If not what could cause this and how do I fix it? Do I need to replace the entire rack and pinion? They told me the tie rod was not cross threaded nor stripped out but something is keeping it from going all the way. Any advice? Thank you
When installing your new boot I noticed you did not apply any lubricant? does it not call for any, do you recommend any? My kit came with some unknown black lube, however I was thinking of using a general grease such as Aeroshell7 or something of that nature. Any thoughts? Thanks for all your work!!
Great video, I’m confused on the alignment stage w new tie rod. Is it comparing end of tie rod, or just centerline or bushing that connects to control arm w end? In that case seems like a jig to mount them both on piece of wood would get you very close… within mm if you had an end oiece
usually by the time the tierods are wearing out, your front end is out of alignment anyway. you can align it close yourself by copying the ones you take off, then making small adjustments and testing it until the car tracks straight, but its hard to tell if you have too much toe in or out and are scrubbing rubber off your tires. if your tires are already old, go for it, and just get an alignment when you get new tires.
when driving my steering tends to wiggle. could it be the lower arm or the tie rod? cuz i’ve already change the steering rack and also the lower arm bushing.
Hey . Doing my tie rod assembly with boot this weekend. Thanks for the great info . My comprehension sucks when reading how to do something . Watching a good video like your videos I get it and I got it . I am getting a alignment . I have done control arms inner balljoints and bushings . . Just a question on alignments . C T stores around here , big box auto stores with repair bays can't do alignments on my e46 touring . What is the counter weight proses needed to do a alignment properly ?
+André Roy Alignments are all done with computerized tools and the E46 is no different than any other modern car, so I can't understand why they would be unable to do it. I've never heard of counter weights being used for alignments, though. Here's a good example of how an alignment is done: th-cam.com/video/3a08DyXcpic/w-d-xo.html Pretty basic, they hang the laser pointer things off the wheels and the computer reads the angles of the wheels, then they just adjust 'em. Around here there are places that will charge $40 and places that will charge $80 for the same exact service.
Thanks for the info . Yah . Canadian tire here in Canada won't do alingment on BMW'S at least here around my place . I wanted to take advantage of 50 % off of a alignment when purchasing new tires. . Going to halfto go to toronto to get the best deal on tires . Thanks again for the info .
@@50sKid Apparently, these are weights required in the car to get the correct ride height (which slightly affects suspension angles). 150lbs in each front seat, 150 lbs in centre of rear seat, 50lbs in the trunk, full tank. You could use sandbags I guess. (I'd never heard of this either till I saw these comments and went Googling)
cr01 I have never heard of this but it sounds so much better than anything I’ve ever had done to my car. Probably SPOT ON. Now I’m gonna shop around and find a place that does it.
@@matthewjswider dont have to shop, take it to your local BMW dealership and pay them 600 bucks for it. then they will probably just do a normal $40 alignment without the weights and tell you they did it right. lol
+Dabuten Zhp You can't. Just do your best to adjust it and make your tires visually straight and parallel to each other then immediately drive to your alignment shop.
If your doing this on the xi version subframe is in the way of boot and clamp. Need to drop it or i put the inner tie rod boot on with a ziptie and cut the boot so it will slide on easier.
Edit: Disregard the below. You've got it at 7:15. First one I've seen. Why do people always suggest counting threads? How do you know the lengths are the same? Just measure from the base of the inner to the center of the through bolt on the outer. Much more reliable.
Hey can bad inner tire rod trigger the DSC light to stay on?? I check all wheeel sensor.. they are good no abs light on just the dsc. my car steering shakes when driving on highway..
you usually hear it making noise. or you find that it takes more effort to turn the wheel than it used to. I think all the E46s have rack and pinion steering with hydraulic boost. So even if the pump fails you can still drive. Much less sketchy than when gearbox steering fails.
Sooo what if the BMW dealership tells you (after getting your car aligned) that your left front tie rod end is seized, and needs replaced, $1400 quote. Is it just a bunch of garbage they're feeding me ? You made it sound so easy when you said, "if it's seized up, just spray some pb plaster or just torch it and warm it up" is it that easy?
+JAY201065 Yes, you need to suspend the engine from above and lower the subframe to be able to get the rack out. Check out my oil pan gasket video to see how to do that.
I'm sure there is a seal that can be replaced, but I'm not sure how easy it is to get out with the rack still in the car (and the shaft still in the rack & pinion). If it were me, I'd pull out the rack and break it down. There are rebuild kits out there with all the seals.
Not necessary, and you probably want to do the opposite and put some antiseize. The nut holding the tie rod ends are probably self locking. Rust will also form by the locking nut, and that isnt going to come loose by itself. The nuts are not subjected to any rotational force, just locking everything in place. Tie rods are high wear and will probably need to be replaced down the line.
@3:58 I'm replacing my tie rods at the moment, one sides done but the right side I can't get it off. Any suggestions? Seem locked in place doesn't want to move at all.
Thanks for replying 50sKid! I don't have one unfortunately, I've booked it in to an alignment place tomorrow for them to do it. Managed to change my control arms and 1 of my tie rods thanks to you! Plus some other things like CCV and VANOS etc, best DIY videos I've ever seen can't thank you enough.
Hey Kid. Just wondering if you have ever changed a power steering cooling line on your e46? I looked at mine while I was under the car , it needs a new one lol. . ( That tie rod job went well till I figured out that they sold me the wrong boot for the rack and pinion )
+50sKid . when I was under the car I had a look around that cooling line for the power steering was pealing rust chunks off of it . I am going to take another look at it when i purchase the proper boot for the rack . and install them. they sent me moog boots without the small end gromets . this really sucks because I have to deal with the outdoor elements. windy . a bit of snow and cold when i did the tie rod ends on the car. sometimes it sucks to be a backyard dyi person. lol
Can you believe somehow the metal sleeve inside steering knuckle came out with tapered shaft of tie rod? E39. So I put ball joint separator onto sleeve, crank, crank, crank - separator tool snapped. old tie rod back into car, and I need a machine shop to separate old tie rod from metal sleeve insert. Unbelievable.
2:15 - ah haha. I'll make sure I warm up my nut before I remove it. jokes aside, helpful video like always. I prematurely worn my tires by taking too long to replace my lower control arms. I fell a very slight shake and I'm quite sure it's the control arm, don't wanna make the same mistake.
@@50sKid Oh, I just saw a video from someone else doing it. He just used a metal tie wrap for the inner side. Oh well. I usually try to keep everything stock, the way it was. But hey, sometimes, you gotta do what you gotta do. Thanks. 👍
For real i have been fighting with my right side tie rod for like 3 hours now and i can't get the f**king outer tie rod off the inner. When i tried to take the whole tie rod off it wont get off....
With rust, the outer is fused to the inner. Almost 2 inches of rusty thread goes into the outer. I used a torch to help the outer expand and a pipe wrench on the inner while the ball joint still seated. Once you break that rust, a sigh of relief.
Thanks, question: the part where you move the tierod by hand on 1:19min, got same, than its bad? Or its normal movement? I got play on wheel when move it left to right, You say " you shouldt be able to move it" but on internet i read something else... mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/42669/is-this-abnormal-tie-rod-play-axial-rotation
Well, I will go ahead and update myself here. The play in the video at that timestamp is fine. New rods won’t stay stiff forever and will loosen up pretty quickly. What you do not want is axial back and forth play when moving the wheel. If there is empty space where the bushing inside the ball joint can move back and forth and make kind of a knocking sound, it’s done and needs to be replaced.
@@irobot4761 thank you 50s kid, yeah my garage also says the tierod should be able to move sideways like that, i have play from left to right in the wheel and a knock sound when i move it by hand, no play from top to bottom when pushing the wheel back and forth We think it comes from the ball joint of the control arm, you can see it also move a little on the bottom of the control arm what connects to the wheel, also at high speed the car wobbles and my steeringwheel shakes some, have a new Meyle HD control arm just delivered, hope it fix my problem soon when installed
Check your CV axle boots to see if one is torn. When they get torn, the grease comes out, dirt gets in, play increases, and they start clicking/knocking.
I would appreciate if you let me know where did you purchase the replacement parts you used in this video. Great video by the way. I am a diy guy and Iove working on my car. I also wonder why you chose 50skid as you name; is there a meaning to it?. Keep those great videos coming. Thank you.
+jorge vega Thanks. I believe I bought the tie rods off eBay so they were a no-name brand. I chose 50sKid because i've always felt like I shoulda been born in the 50s because back then every kid knew how to fix a car and build a radio, whereas today not so much.
I like how easily you say "go get an alignment". Where I live none of the shops will touch my 325xi, saying I have to take it to a dealer ... 2 1/2 hours away and $250.
Holly crap that is the dumbest thing I've ever heard [from a shop]! Just tell them it's the same as any other car--it literally is. All cars have tie rods and control arms and macpherson struts.
Update: Local shop just got $50k worth of align equipment and the software includes BMWs ... and mine! However, they don't have the weights that need to be placed in the car ... 150lbs each front seat, 150lbs center rear seat and 60lbs in the trunk ... to do the job. Those I have to supply. Argh.
Dont do this if you dont want to spend $$$ on alignment, just remove the old tie rod boot and get a new one, cut it vertical and put it on and super glue it with the best super glue in the market and seal it with permatex black adhesive silicone! Dont waste money by removing everything! Mine looks like its lasting forever! -Rommel Bucasas Garcia
This man makes owning an e46 at 20 so much easier and cheaper, thank you so much
I feel u I own a 2004 325xi for winter and I don't wanna spend to much cause it's just a cheap daily and these videos make it super easy
I feel like a thank you just isn't enough for all the knowledge you've been able to pass on via these videos. Your methods of diagnosis, the video angles, the detailed explanations of each step, it's all just so well done. Thank you so much.
thanks man, you are doing the bmw community a monumental service!
50's Kid is so helpful!!! Clearly explained in a foolproof manner. I watch this guy everytime I need to do a DIY Job on one of my 3 BMW e46 cars & has saved me a fortune! With help like this why would you ever need to buy a new car as looked after they go on forever.
Keep up the good work, much appreciated
Stevie M
This helped out a lot when replacing mine. Unfortunately my boot clamps were different and not as easy. For the torque specs, the outer tie rod to the knuckle is actually 48 ft lbs. The center nut where the tie rods connects is 33 ft lbs.
I know this is an old video but I did this today, and my only comment is that pounding and trying to shock the tie rod loose didn't work for me. I ended up keeping the old nut a few threads on and pounding on the nut from above.
What does it depend on whether the new tie rod has a rubber ring at one end? The one you removed didn't have it. Good job my friend.
Thank you so much from Spain.
man i can get the kit for just over £100 and watching this video mann save a lot of money. I hope to do this sometime in my ownership of an e46
50sKid, thanks again for the DIYs. Always spot on with information, camera views, and advice.
FWIW, places like Autozone will lend a Tie Rod and Pitman Arm Puller for free so one doesn't need to use the huge hammer. Beyond that, your video (and your other videos) are very helpful. Thanks.
I am envious of the fact whoever owns this car has an E46 with no rust on it! I just did the same job and it was a total pain because every single thing was rusted to fuck. What took him less than 3 minutes took me about 3 hours just having to blow torch everything that was seized in place i.e everything I touched. :-/ The UK environment does bad things to cars.
Zip-ties may not rust but they do wear out (become brittle and break and fall off and you wont know when they do) best to use s.s. clamps.
Thank you so much for these videos. I think we all can agree your way of explaining diagnosing issues is great. Thank you again. I can do this myself now
I can definitely tell you live in California, here in Pennsylvania that tie rod would have never dropped out that easy
Clear, concise with great camera work. Thank you sir!!
great videos!I'm glad I was able to find these videos on bmws. other people show videos on junks that they are not even in the road any more.
Just did tie rod on my X5. Actually there should be some twisting play on the outer tie rod, thats why its on a balljoint. Where there shouldnt be play is the in and out motion as when you did the 3-9o'clock test. Mine didnt have any play, just alot of squeaking from the ball joint.
Thanks for the informative vid. But why didn't you clean shaft on the rack before putting the new boot in?
Question Jason, I seen lots of others torque the outer tie rod end nut to 48 foot pounds an I did mine the same . I just watched yours . You recommend loosing it and re-torque it to 33 ft pounds or just leave it ? Thanks
Just a big Thank you from me down in Australia. Love what you provide. Strong Work Mate!
Thanks bro, another great vid which helped me replace my tie rod ends👍🔧🔨🥊
Awesome, just like every other video you've done! Thank you
If I'm just replacing a boot. Can't I leave the Tie-Rod Threaded where its at,,, and the Replacement version of the new boot with the big mouth design slip over the Rack Nut End of the Shaft So I don't loose my alignment?
Thanks! Just reassembling a E46 'purple' rack which I acquired disassembled to go on my 318. It looks as if this rack doesn't use a lock tab between the inner ball joint and the rack shaft (most earlier models of rack do). I was going nuts searching on Ebay for locktabs for it. :)
Great!
I wish you have also showed us if there is any play with the new part: if you could move the wheel at 9 and 3 or if you could twist the tie rod.
On my car, just on the ground, with the wheel turned to the max, I can grab the tie rod and twist it left and right. There is no sound but, it still feels like it should not twist!
Appreciated the video! Just an observation, the sway bar links are worn down also! Time to change that as well. Thanks again
CJ Solomon Good eye!
I have a 2008 x3 Si and I hit the curb the other day cause a car pulled out in front of me and I had to move out of the way. Both tires on the right side hit but the back tire hit so hard that it bent the control arm.
I had the control arm replaced, normally I do this myself but had no time so had to take it to the shop. When they went to do the alignment they're telling me that the tie rod on the passengers side won't go in all the way and that the steering is off by about 4 mm.
Is this related to me hitting the curb or just typical problem on older x 3's? If not what could cause this and how do I fix it? Do I need to replace the entire rack and pinion?
They told me the tie rod was not cross threaded nor stripped out but something is keeping it from going all the way.
Any advice?
Thank you
When installing your new boot I noticed you did not apply any lubricant? does it not call for any, do you recommend any? My kit came with some unknown black lube, however I was thinking of using a general grease such as Aeroshell7 or something of that nature. Any thoughts? Thanks for all your work!!
What did you end up using?
Hi. Can you make a video removing/replacing the steering rack?
The clunk that you are talking about, do they occur when you press on the brake and feel them in pedal, especially at lower speeds?
Thanks for showin us the best easy way to do👍this is my next the same project on my 03 330i...
Great video, I’m confused on the alignment stage w new tie rod. Is it comparing end of tie rod, or just centerline or bushing that connects to control arm w end? In that case seems like a jig to mount them both on piece of wood would get you very close… within mm if you had an end oiece
It's comparing the total length of the rod when assembled
usually by the time the tierods are wearing out, your front end is out of alignment anyway. you can align it close yourself by copying the ones you take off, then making small adjustments and testing it until the car tracks straight, but its hard to tell if you have too much toe in or out and are scrubbing rubber off your tires. if your tires are already old, go for it, and just get an alignment when you get new tires.
Isn’t there a locking washer between the end of the steering rack and the inner tie rod? I know there is on the E36.
if the steering boots are torn does that suggest a replacement of both the boots and the tie rod ends?
can you use this vid for just a steering wheel boot replacement?
when driving my steering tends to wiggle. could it be the lower arm or the tie rod? cuz i’ve already change the steering rack and also the lower arm bushing.
شكرا لكم على هذه المعلومات والشروحات التي تقدمونها لنا فلكم الشكر الجزيل
Super helpful, where'd you get the tie rod set at?
No mention of locking washer when removing or replacing the tie rod??
I think the locking washer is on older models.
What type of alignment place do I look for?
Hey . Doing my tie rod assembly with boot this weekend.
Thanks for the great info . My comprehension sucks when reading how to do something . Watching a good video like your videos I get it and I got it . I am getting a alignment . I have done control arms inner balljoints and bushings . .
Just a question on alignments . C T stores around here , big box auto stores with repair bays can't do alignments on my e46 touring .
What is the counter weight proses needed to do a alignment properly ?
+André Roy Alignments are all done with computerized tools and the E46 is no different than any other modern car, so I can't understand why they would be unable to do it. I've never heard of counter weights being used for alignments, though. Here's a good example of how an alignment is done: th-cam.com/video/3a08DyXcpic/w-d-xo.html Pretty basic, they hang the laser pointer things off the wheels and the computer reads the angles of the wheels, then they just adjust 'em. Around here there are places that will charge $40 and places that will charge $80 for the same exact service.
Thanks for the info . Yah . Canadian tire here in Canada won't do alingment on BMW'S at least here around my place . I wanted to take advantage of 50 % off of a alignment when purchasing new tires. . Going to halfto go to toronto to get the best deal on tires . Thanks again for the info .
@@50sKid Apparently, these are weights required in the car to get the correct ride height (which slightly affects suspension angles). 150lbs in each front seat, 150 lbs in centre of rear seat, 50lbs in the trunk, full tank. You could use sandbags I guess. (I'd never heard of this either till I saw these comments and went Googling)
cr01 I have never heard of this but it sounds so much better than anything I’ve ever had done to my car. Probably SPOT ON. Now I’m gonna shop around and find a place that does it.
@@matthewjswider dont have to shop, take it to your local BMW dealership and pay them 600 bucks for it. then they will probably just do a normal $40 alignment without the weights and tell you they did it right. lol
Good job.
How I can to measure exactly the new tie rod if the old is broken?
+Dabuten Zhp You can't. Just do your best to adjust it and make your tires visually straight and parallel to each other then immediately drive to your alignment shop.
If your doing this on the xi version subframe is in the way of boot and clamp. Need to drop it or i put the inner tie rod boot on with a ziptie and cut the boot so it will slide on easier.
Where would you cut the boot? Doesn't that defeat the purpose of it if it is cut?
I very much , enjoy you videos; you made this one look nice and easy.
Edit: Disregard the below. You've got it at 7:15. First one I've seen.
Why do people always suggest counting threads? How do you know the lengths are the same?
Just measure from the base of the inner to the center of the through bolt on the outer. Much more reliable.
No grease into the rubber boot?
Hey can bad inner tire rod trigger the DSC light to stay on?? I check all wheeel sensor.. they are good no abs light on just the dsc. my car steering shakes when driving on highway..
Usually if your alignment is off, or if your tires aren't balanced, is when I noticed my lights on
Great overview. Worked just as you said. Thank you!
On my car the other side had a circle around the main bolt to unscrew the other side but no one shows driver side only passenger side
Dear Master how did you know if your power steering have problems?
you usually hear it making noise. or you find that it takes more effort to turn the wheel than it used to. I think all the E46s have rack and pinion steering with hydraulic boost. So even if the pump fails you can still drive. Much less sketchy than when gearbox steering fails.
Sooo what if the BMW dealership tells you (after getting your car aligned) that your left front tie rod end is seized, and needs replaced, $1400 quote. Is it just a bunch of garbage they're feeding me ? You made it sound so easy when you said, "if it's seized up, just spray some pb plaster or just torch it and warm it up" is it that easy?
Yes, pretty much. There is nothing super complicated about rusted/seized threads. Heat fixes everything
is the rack and pinion replacement a whole different job from this
+JAY201065 Yes, you need to suspend the engine from above and lower the subframe to be able to get the rack out. Check out my oil pan gasket video to see how to do that.
if there is a pretty bad leak right there at that shaft the tie rod threads into.. is there a seal for that or is the whole rack n pinion bad?
I'm sure there is a seal that can be replaced, but I'm not sure how easy it is to get out with the rack still in the car (and the shaft still in the rack & pinion). If it were me, I'd pull out the rack and break it down. There are rebuild kits out there with all the seals.
You da best. I will be doing this tomorrow
I learnt from u how replace zi engine thanks
would it be good practice using some thread locker on the rods?
Not necessary, and you probably want to do the opposite and put some antiseize. The nut holding the tie rod ends are probably self locking. Rust will also form by the locking nut, and that isnt going to come loose by itself. The nuts are not subjected to any rotational force, just locking everything in place. Tie rods are high wear and will probably need to be replaced down the line.
@3:58 I'm replacing my tie rods at the moment, one sides done but the right side I can't get it off. Any suggestions? Seem locked in place doesn't want to move at all.
heat it up with a propane torch, preferably map gas
Thanks for replying 50sKid! I don't have one unfortunately, I've booked it in to an alignment place tomorrow for them to do it. Managed to change my control arms and 1 of my tie rods thanks to you! Plus some other things like CCV and VANOS etc, best DIY videos I've ever seen can't thank you enough.
Best video I seen on this great work
Hey Kid. Just wondering if you have ever changed a power steering cooling line on your e46? I looked at mine while I was under the car , it needs a new one lol. . ( That tie rod job went well till I figured out that they sold me the wrong boot for the rack and pinion )
+André Roy You talking about the hard line? Why do you need a new one?
+50sKid . when I was under the car I had a look around that cooling line for the power steering was pealing rust chunks off of it . I am going to take another look at it when i purchase the proper boot for the rack . and install them. they sent me moog boots without the small end gromets . this really sucks because I have to deal with the outdoor elements. windy . a bit of snow and cold when i did the tie rod ends on the car. sometimes it sucks to be a backyard dyi person. lol
Aha, yeah in that situation I understand. It shouldn't be hard to get off. A little silicone spray does wonders for getting rubber lines off.
Haven’t you forgotten to add the lube on the ball joint on the outer tie rod?
I believe they are sealed units that are already prelubed. unless some aftermarket company makes one with a grease zerk.
Where u get that little piece for the boot
What size tool do I use to put a ball joint from the tie rode back into the rack and pinion
for a 2001 bmw 330ci coupe
Can you believe somehow the metal sleeve inside steering knuckle came out with tapered shaft of tie rod?
E39.
So I put ball joint separator onto sleeve, crank, crank, crank - separator tool snapped.
old tie rod back into car, and I need a machine shop to separate old tie rod from metal sleeve insert. Unbelievable.
What kind of alignment do I have to do?
What brand tie rods did you use?
2:15 - ah haha. I'll make sure I warm up my nut before I remove it. jokes aside, helpful video like always. I prematurely worn my tires by taking too long to replace my lower control arms. I fell a very slight shake and I'm quite sure it's the control arm, don't wanna make the same mistake.
Love your videos, have you done one on the control arms yet?
Any tricks on how to do it on an xi? Those clamps on the inner side of the boots are impossible to get to.
I’ve never done an xi, I’m afraid. But if you’re having trouble getting access you might have to drop the subframe a little
@@50sKid Yep, that was my fear. ☹️
@@50sKid Oh, I just saw a video from someone else doing it. He just used a metal tie wrap for the inner side. Oh well. I usually try to keep everything stock, the way it was. But hey, sometimes, you gotta do what you gotta do. Thanks. 👍
@@eduardopietri8575 Yeah you can also just use a big zip tie. It's just a dust boot.
Same procedure for an xi?
Hit the knuckle with a large two-handed sledge for hours. Couldn't get that tie rod to come out :/
For real i have been fighting with my right side tie rod for like 3 hours now and i can't get the f**king outer tie rod off the inner. When i tried to take the whole tie rod off it wont get off....
With rust, the outer is fused to the inner. Almost 2 inches of rusty thread goes into the outer. I used a torch to help the outer expand and a pipe wrench on the inner while the ball joint still seated. Once you break that rust, a sigh of relief.
Thanks, question: the part where you move the tierod by hand on 1:19min, got same, than its bad? Or its normal movement? I got play on wheel when move it left to right, You say " you shouldt be able to move it" but on internet i read something else... mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/42669/is-this-abnormal-tie-rod-play-axial-rotation
yes, that’s another sign they’re bad. Mine also have play when twisting the tie rods, planning on replacing soon
Well, I will go ahead and update myself here. The play in the video at that timestamp is fine. New rods won’t stay stiff forever and will loosen up pretty quickly. What you do not want is axial back and forth play when moving the wheel. If there is empty space where the bushing inside the ball joint can move back and forth and make kind of a knocking sound, it’s done and needs to be replaced.
@@irobot4761 thank you 50s kid, yeah my garage also says the tierod should be able to move sideways like that, i have play from left to right in the wheel and a knock sound when i move it by hand, no play from top to bottom when pushing the wheel back and forth
We think it comes from the ball joint of the control arm, you can see it also move a little on the bottom of the control arm what connects to the wheel, also at high speed the car wobbles and my steeringwheel shakes some, have a new Meyle HD control arm just delivered, hope it fix my problem soon when installed
@@50sKid thanks for clearing that up cuz I was under the same impression as you were in the video
Hello from Athens,good job,but you don't put grass no were
This is really helpful! Thank you
will do that asap
really appreciate it
lower control arm ball joint as well
Awesome as always
You just saved me 600$ for one tire rod
Thank you so much for this
where did you purchase your tie rods from?
www.fcpeuro.com/cart
that is really helpfull thanks bro
Nice work kid!!
If my car makes knocking noise when I turn my steering wheel low speed, is that from tie rod??
Check your CV axle boots to see if one is torn. When they get torn, the grease comes out, dirt gets in, play increases, and they start clicking/knocking.
Great and helpful vid man
does this apply to xi cars as well?
yes
I would appreciate if you let me know where did you purchase the replacement parts you used in this video. Great video by the way. I am a diy guy and Iove working on my car. I also wonder why you chose 50skid as you name; is there a meaning to it?. Keep those great videos coming. Thank you.
+jorge vega Thanks. I believe I bought the tie rods off eBay so they were a no-name brand. I chose 50sKid because i've always felt like I shoulda been born in the 50s because back then every kid knew how to fix a car and build a radio, whereas today not so much.
How's the ebay rods treating you?
1:11 track rod ends will pivot like this when new, its a ball socket joint its designed to do that
Awesome, thanks very much!
will this same work on a e36 325i 92 model
+will cornelius Yeah this applies to almost any car.
Over tightening the outer tie rod nut is just asking for premature failure. And you definitely overtightened it.
I like how easily you say "go get an alignment".
Where I live none of the shops will touch my 325xi, saying I have to take it to a dealer ... 2 1/2 hours away and $250.
Holly crap that is the dumbest thing I've ever heard [from a shop]! Just tell them it's the same as any other car--it literally is. All cars have tie rods and control arms and macpherson struts.
I'm told 'special tools', 'bags', and an 'exotic car', lol.
I'm running into this problem, again, because I'm about to replace the tie rod boots.
Update: Local shop just got $50k worth of align equipment and the software includes BMWs ... and mine! However, they don't have the weights that need to be placed in the car ... 150lbs each front seat, 150lbs center rear seat and 60lbs in the trunk ... to do the job. Those I have to supply. Argh.
My comment: eye roll.
Fill the boot with beer and get two of their guys in the front seat, and you will get your alignment done for free :)
Thanks so much.
great video
+Jarrett Culmer Thanks
thank you very much .
Dont do this if you dont want to spend $$$ on alignment, just remove the old tie rod boot and get a new one, cut it vertical and put it on and super glue it with the best super glue in the market and seal it with permatex black adhesive silicone! Dont waste money by removing everything! Mine looks like its lasting forever!
-Rommel Bucasas Garcia
You sounded so tired in that intro 😂
Good job
Great stuff
thank you
thanks