Well done!!! At times wondered on using V blocks. The few times I tried it just didn't seem right. Now I know why! You answered a question while it was still bouncing around. Very cool. Thanks!
For my CT 110, the Honda manual shows the crank on vee blocks with main bearings in place & state 35mm from the webs as the point to place the dial gauges. I wasn't sure about that idea so I made up two different stands, one using knife edges, similar to yours. I also made one using live centres, holding the crank at the ends. I measured with the main bearings removed & the gauges as close to the web as possible. I know that it's not possible on all cranks to suspend them at the ends, but I found it gives a more accurate result.
No one said anything till after I already shot this corrected the issue. Since I have had one gentleman that offered great advice, I really appreciate folks that are helpful.
great job dalemany a workshop manual tells u to check the runout on the cranks near to the end as possible but not always possible great jig and glad u sorted crank before u shipped it back keep up the good work
Thanks Dale for your videos They do make knife edge steel wheel center checkers,a buddy of mine had an old time alternator/starter service shop,and he had one . It was used for armature checks
Nice work, just found your channel a couple of weeks back and went thru this same process when I wanted to double check centre to centre in my lathe on an old twin BSA crank, bought those wide V blocks and like you didnt trust they were telling me anything. You just confirmed what I thought, off to Make some thin V blocks now. Cheers From Australia, also just doing a 73 RT3 crank today aswell 😊
Thanks my friend, my go to is center to center on the lathe, but if the center holes are messed up I go to the knife blade V blocks I made. The wide ones just will not work. I just had a visitor from Australia in my shop a few weeks ago. We had a great visit. Nice people. Best of luck with your project.
Hey Dale, On the D group models, BSA have you check the crank in V-blocks, but with the main bearings fitted. I suppose this isolates the shaft from the surface of the block somewhat. They don't have a lathe centre on both ends, just on the mag side. I like your new jig, very good indeed. Best wishes, Dean.
Yes, if I had the bearings, I could have done it that way, but the customer had already installed the bearings in the cases. One side was common, and I had it 6205, I think. The other side was a weird double row ball bearing......expensive. I will be doing more and more this way I think, so many have the centering holes messed up. Thanks buddy.
Just found your channel you do nice work 👍👍🏁🏁 what I do for truing is take drum sander to old- good bearings so they're slip fit. Then can spin on bearing and check end of taper furthest away from where they sit on v blocks. If you use a layd you check where bearings go. Furthest away from ends . Opposite when using v blocks 😃
Thanks for the kind words, I generally do crank truing in the lathe, but more and more of them come into the shop with beat up centering holes. In the case of this RM crank, if you follow the whole series (think there were 6 videos on this), this was a 2 year only crank, and the owner was unable to find one, so I had to make the threads on both ends, cut off the old beat-up ones, then drill the shafts and press in the new ones with Loctite and then pin them in place. I didn't feel that I could get the centering holes in the proper place, so I built this fixture to check the runout. To be honest, I will probably be using this fixture more and more in the future because the cranks left out there are so beat up. Sometimes I can set them up in the lathe if I have the crank split apart and carefully recut the centering hole, but you have to go at it slow with a single point cutting tool to keep it as it should be. Thanks for spending time with me in the shop.
@@montana2strokeracer ya I watched bunch of your videos last night and I don't tend to watch guys on TH-cam 😆 but you know what you're doing for sure 🔧🔧 i actually do alot of vintage engines for local vintage racers. More modern stuff but have a gt80 and it175 engines on bench rn 🔧🔧 would you be interested in doing some bores for me in future? One thing I don't do and I got hurt racing in 2020 so in wheelchair now makes everything a pita lol. Local shop that's done bores for many years isn't doing them as much cause old mechanic is retiring. They'll still do but takes awhile. You do good work and have the machines to do them. I'd send the correct piston and have cylinder clean and stripped 🔧🔧
@@thetwostrokerebuilder Hi there, I hate to commit to an open-ended thing for any type of engine. You can send me an email at dsweger@bresnan.net when you have something needing bored. I will determine at that time if I have the time and if that's something I want to work on. I get pretty busy at times and one thing for sure is I don't get in a hurry on anything, so if you need it quick, you probably should find someone else. Thanks buddy sure appreciate it.
Dale I have a question for you. When you made the new crank ends, couldn't you have put in the tapered centers for the center-to-center method, into the new parts? Wouldn't they have been spot on once you pressed them into the crank?
Yes, I could have put them in, but if they were only off by a little....I would not be getting good measurements and I may have made the runout worse and not even know it. Thinking about it now I probably should have put them in just for the pullers to center on if nothing else, and still set it up this way.
Yes like I said in the video, I normally set these up between lathe centers, this crank has no holes in the shaft ends, so had to figure another way to skin the cat.
Interresting topic. I was looking into the same problem, and I'm thinking of building something like the Harley Davidson crankshaft truing tool (th-cam.com/video/CnhkuR4esfE/w-d-xo.html)
Dale, I never even thought about the wide serface of the V-blocks, great catch.
Thanks Don.
Well done!!! At times wondered on using V blocks. The few times I tried it just didn't seem right. Now I know why! You answered a question while it was still bouncing around. Very cool. Thanks!
Thanks Jim, we all learn stuff, every day.
For my CT 110, the Honda manual shows the crank on vee blocks with main bearings in place & state 35mm from the webs as the point to place the dial gauges. I wasn't sure about that idea so I made up two different stands, one using knife edges, similar to yours. I also made one using live centres, holding the crank at the ends. I measured with the main bearings removed & the gauges as close to the web as possible. I know that it's not possible on all cranks to suspend them at the ends, but I found it gives a more accurate result.
Thank you, that is reassuring. I normally check center to center on the lathe. No holes in this one. I was happy with the set up.
Dale, great catch and thanks again for teaching us how to do these things. You're the best, don't sweat it, we all know you're awesome.
You are too kind Jeff, I learn something everyday, and a lot of it comes from the viewers.
Glad you caught it.
Me too
Excellent jig you've made up Dale. Thanks for the video and the explanation. The issue with the V-blocks never crossed my mind!
Thanks Peter, I learn something every day, and a lot of it comes from the viewers.
surprized that some of the gang thought you were having a issue with the wide V-block. some pretty sharp folks in the Dale fan club for sure!
No one said anything till after I already shot this corrected the issue. Since I have had one gentleman that offered great advice, I really appreciate folks that are helpful.
@@montana2strokeracer hey, we are all here to help some moer than others. great bunch of subscribers you have for sure.
great job dalemany a workshop manual tells u to check the runout on the cranks near to the end as possible but not always possible great jig and glad u sorted crank before u shipped it back keep up the good work
Thanks Mark, yes, the farthest out is the best for sure. Thanks for spending time with me in the shop
Thanks Dale for your videos
They do make knife edge steel wheel center checkers,a buddy of mine had an old time alternator/starter service shop,and he had one .
It was used for armature checks
Thats cool, Wally. Some of the oldest tools are the best still.
Makes sense. Nice jig dale
Thanks Matt.
Nice work, just found your channel a couple of weeks back and went thru this same process when I wanted to double check centre to centre in my lathe on an old twin BSA crank, bought those wide V blocks and like you didnt trust they were telling me anything. You just confirmed what I thought, off to Make some thin V blocks now.
Cheers From Australia, also just doing a 73 RT3 crank today aswell 😊
Thanks my friend, my go to is center to center on the lathe, but if the center holes are messed up I go to the knife blade V blocks I made. The wide ones just will not work. I just had a visitor from Australia in my shop a few weeks ago. We had a great visit. Nice people. Best of luck with your project.
🤙👌👌👌🔥
Thank you.
Hey Dale, On the D group models, BSA have you check the crank in V-blocks, but with the main bearings fitted. I suppose this isolates the shaft from the surface of the block somewhat. They don't have a lathe centre on both ends, just on the mag side. I like your new jig, very good indeed.
Best wishes, Dean.
Yes, if I had the bearings, I could have done it that way, but the customer had already installed the bearings in the cases. One side was common, and I had it 6205, I think. The other side was a weird double row ball bearing......expensive. I will be doing more and more this way I think, so many have the centering holes messed up. Thanks buddy.
@@montana2strokeracer I like it Dale, I may well build one myself.
Just found your channel you do nice work 👍👍🏁🏁 what I do for truing is take drum sander to old- good bearings so they're slip fit. Then can spin on bearing and check end of taper furthest away from where they sit on v blocks. If you use a layd you check where bearings go. Furthest away from ends . Opposite when using v blocks 😃
Thanks for the kind words, I generally do crank truing in the lathe, but more and more of them come into the shop with beat up centering holes. In the case of this RM crank, if you follow the whole series (think there were 6 videos on this), this was a 2 year only crank, and the owner was unable to find one, so I had to make the threads on both ends, cut off the old beat-up ones, then drill the shafts and press in the new ones with Loctite and then pin them in place. I didn't feel that I could get the centering holes in the proper place, so I built this fixture to check the runout. To be honest, I will probably be using this fixture more and more in the future because the cranks left out there are so beat up. Sometimes I can set them up in the lathe if I have the crank split apart and carefully recut the centering hole, but you have to go at it slow with a single point cutting tool to keep it as it should be. Thanks for spending time with me in the shop.
@@montana2strokeracer ya I watched bunch of your videos last night and I don't tend to watch guys on TH-cam 😆 but you know what you're doing for sure 🔧🔧 i actually do alot of vintage engines for local vintage racers. More modern stuff but have a gt80 and it175 engines on bench rn 🔧🔧 would you be interested in doing some bores for me in future? One thing I don't do and I got hurt racing in 2020 so in wheelchair now makes everything a pita lol. Local shop that's done bores for many years isn't doing them as much cause old mechanic is retiring. They'll still do but takes awhile. You do good work and have the machines to do them. I'd send the correct piston and have cylinder clean and stripped 🔧🔧
I'm in upstate NY close to old national track broometioga or Binghamton they called it. Although not in Binghamton or even close lol
@@thetwostrokerebuilder Hi there, I hate to commit to an open-ended thing for any type of engine. You can send me an email at dsweger@bresnan.net when you have something needing bored. I will determine at that time if I have the time and if that's something I want to work on. I get pretty busy at times and one thing for sure is I don't get in a hurry on anything, so if you need it quick, you probably should find someone else. Thanks buddy sure appreciate it.
@@montana2strokeracer Roger that 👍 thanks for the message back 👊
Dale I have a question for you. When you made the new crank ends, couldn't you have put in the tapered centers for the center-to-center method, into the new parts? Wouldn't they have been spot on once you pressed them into the crank?
Yes, I could have put them in, but if they were only off by a little....I would not be getting good measurements and I may have made the runout worse and not even know it. Thinking about it now I probably should have put them in just for the pullers to center on if nothing else, and still set it up this way.
Here
Thanks for stopping by Cain.
okay where is everyone?
Nice to see you Frank
Lathe centers.
Yes like I said in the video, I normally set these up between lathe centers, this crank has no holes in the shaft ends, so had to figure another way to skin the cat.
Don’t trust the center bore in the crankshaft of old bikes. As showed is the best way. (my humble experience)
Interresting topic. I was looking into the same problem, and I'm thinking of building something like the Harley Davidson crankshaft truing tool (th-cam.com/video/CnhkuR4esfE/w-d-xo.html)