Thanks for pointing out the issue with the Sharge sponsor read, we're removing that short portion from this video and we'll reshoot it for future integrations.
Honestly one of the coolest videos LTT has posted in a while. Please go down this rabbit hole. Im sure more will be uncovered of how viable this might actually be
I didn't realize there was a scanning spray that cleaned up with sublimation. I was only aware of ones that required manual cleaning. Going to have to give it a try.
I use it all the time in my job. It can take quite a while to fully sublimate, but even if you end up having to clean some of it off manually, it's still a lot less messy than dealing with the non-sublimating stuff.
There was a recent post in the r/SFFPC subreddit where a user 3D printed molds instead. Then used regular hardline tubing and used heat to fit them to the mold. Was able to achieve something super complex but without having to go resin and print the full tubes. It would work great for an SI when they have fixed configurations, they could just premake all the tube runs with ease.
Custom Scientific Glass Blowing has a similar process where they use regular tubing and stock glass to form custom pieces for laboratory and manufacturing use which has to be of a high standard for professional use to withstand heat and pressure tolerances fit for purpose. Or if you think of it as a prototyping route, make a model test fit... and then go completely over the top and follow an artistic route glass blower/sculpter to make the final product. The looks you could pull off like go full glass crazy straw, mad-scientist labratory glass kit, abstract art like a glass knot or klein bottle, or waterflow sculptures.
If you don't want to resin print you can fdm print casings to hold softline tubing, you just thread the tubing through the printed casing and you have your shaped tubing
Open loop splashing water on a tower heatsink would be hilarious. You'll probably have to top it off every week due to evaporation, but it'll double as a humidifier.
Every week? Eh, if the capacity is like common loops, several times a day to once every hour or so running an i9 with load on it. You'd have to demineralize the loop once or twice a day or your pump won't make a full day without seizing. Realistically you'd have to automate refill based on some level point or you'll cook stuff or have auto shutdown due to thermal alarm constantly. Think of it this way, would you want a 100w+ air humidifier?
I am kind of glad that they brought the intro back. Honestly I feel like linus should do more off script stuff. Makes the video more genuine and spontaneous
remember kids, the difference between doing something stupid and doing something for science is that for science you take notes of your results (and shout "FOR SCIENCE!!" )
Empirical testing and knowledge is the backbone of the scientific method, afterall. There is no science behind the scientific method; it is just a structured/formalized format for messing about.
You absolutely can use FDM printing to produce watertight objects, I have done it myself using PETG and even in vase mode (where the wall is just a single continuous extrusion). You just need to have well tuned settings. PLA isn't good for watertight objects but most other materials are absolutely fine. Yes prints have layers but if your settings are right then the layers should be fused enough that there isn't any gap.
Man I have been 3d printing for nearly 6 years now and this is very cool tbh I’m very surprised no one thought of this before but man you guys did a great job keep up the brilliant work guys your all the best.
About time you guys tried this, I did this years back with my Anycubic Photon, only did a few difficult bends, but 4 yrs later they are still in daily use.
That would be pretty sweet. I'm picturing the tubing coming out of the case and forming a neon sign-like word above the pc, with some (occasionally flickering..?) black light LEDs pointed at it, if they exist.
This is cool. If you have a small resin printer, you could conceivably print separate tube sections with each end having a male/female end that fit together and glued with resin. Each section can be oriented for best quality.
This opens a lot of opportunities! Why even have tubes, when you can have any shape? Why not build in additional little coolers at places where you have additional space? Why not build in LED and go crazy on the material, to create something really funky? You could really build individual custom PC and you could try out cooling solutions that have not been done before.
You could also 3D print the reservoir, distribution block, and fittings with O-ring grooves. Plus you could vary the width of tubes, adapt between sizes without fittings, and make structural or decorative components that are part of the loop. Even FDM prints can be water tight, though it depends on material and print settings.
You can add a bit of adjustability into the tube as well by adding extra bends that allow some 'squishiness' in certain directions, depending on the rigidity of the plastic used.
The resin is usually very rigid. And putting more bends in it than necessary could lower your efficient fluid movement. You can't just heat bend it like the plastic or the glass.
This is the kind of shit that I love ltt for. It’s crazy enough that I’d never try it first, but now that they’ve done it I’m kind of intrigued to try. Great video 👍
Linus took off his metal challenge gauntlet, slapped Charles Harwood across the face, took his puppy, and stomped over his flower garden and said this isn’t a challenge. 😂😂😂
4:56 One thing you could improve: The edge of the bending looks pretty sharp. Plastic doesn't like these sharp edges because there can act alot of forces, which can lead to hairline cracks. What you want is a curve redirecting this force.
12:36 - 12:39 "100,000mAh battery capacity" Hey Alex, you've got some info the printer doesn't have? Cause it printed 10,000mAh on the powerbank (as shown at 12:44)...
Resin toxicity varies dramatically depending on the formulation - and there are low toxicity formulations that are dramatically safer to use, but be aware that to achieve low toxicity tradeoffs in cost, mechanical (ex, tensile strength, glass transition temp), printable (viscosity, curing wavelengths, curing time, etc), optical (coloration, UV stabilization, opacity), or chemical (water sensitivity, ozone sensitivity, etc) must be made, so do your research on what you need to make the print actually function in its intended role and its compatibility with printers/curing lights/etc. I personally work with a very low toxicity PMMA/acrylic formulation for most of what I do personally, but while its got pretty decent mechanical and cost properties, it does make notable tradeoffs in chemical (high water sensitivity causing hydrolysis of the plastic before being fully cured), optical (low clarity on "transparent"/translucent prints), and printable (high viscosity) properties
The point is that its usually far more toxic than regular fdm printing, most hobbyist filaments besides abs asa or composites, dont really produce Vocs or affect air quality if you arent right next to them
If the tubing does not fail within six months I would recommend leaving it in direct sunlight or under UV lights to see how long it survives thereafter. I would also love to see a comparison with parts printed by xometry or someone with a traditional industrial 355nm wavelength printer using ceramic resin or something of the like. The desktop models or DLP models use 405nm wavelength to cure the resin.
You know who is also as mad? Our sponsor, Acronis! Okay jokes aside this is really cool. It’s even done in a SSUPD case with the Barrow combined pump/reservoir/block
Oh it will. I thought about doing this almost 6 years ago. Turns out that resin prints dissolve in water. Hope that the resin they used resolves this issue.
@@hed420 There are plenty of resins that aren't water soluble. In fact, can you guess what kind of technique dentists use nowadays? Surprise! Resin 3D printing.
Well resin has been known to be water tight for years. Most of the resins for hobby use don't stand up well in water. That said there are plenty of ones that are water safe. Some of the new ones that you can thermal cure on top of the UV cure so you don't end up with the uncured internal resin issues although it is absurdly expensive and I don't think I have seen clear.
This is one of the only times I was ahead of the game with one of your sponsors. We use Acronis for a number of our IT needs and it has definitely made my job a crap ton easier. It's also super affordable compared to anything close to a competitor.
4:04 means your settings are not correct, although it's less relevant because you can coat the stuff in epoxy. I printed a part in petg for a hydrolic tank and it is indeed water tight. There is a alternative where you fill the part with sand and put it in a box of packed sand then heat it enough to somewhat melt which will also seal the print.
Maybe on a high-end printer I would agree with you, but on a lot of the extremely low quality low-cost consumer models, I would not expect those prints to be water tight. And yes, there are solutions for that problem but coding an entire tube in epoxy at that point, why don't you just use traditional hardline methods because it's impressive enough for way less manual labor
@@xXlURMOMlXx but can you reliably do that with relatively thin tubes? And also can you do that from printer to printer because something that you need to understand Is these cheap consumer models? Do not have high tolerances so you could get one that's capable of amazing precision and you can get another one that couldn't print watertight tubes to save its life, especially because a lot of these companies do not care about the tolerances they're they are just trying to sell you really cheap garbage
@@the_undead that's a skill issue. The printers are cheap because you have to build them and calibrate it yourself. It's a pita but you get what you pay for. Spend a little more for a bambu and it's a non issue
Okay I will admit that is pretty awesome...been watching a ton of custom loop videos since my next build I want to finally do my first hard line...and this is just cool!
if you clearcoat the resin print you can achieve translucency. I have lightly wetsanded some resin prints, clearcoated them and ended up with parts clear enough to easily read text through. Resin prints can continue to cure in sunlight and end up cracking so a UV clearcoat is a nice way to mitigate that
Hey LInus, you absolutely can print watertight tubing in PETG on a regular 3D printer. I've done a bunch of experiments on this because I can't use resin printers in our apartment. Over extruding the flow rate along with reducing cooling of PETG can give the right amount of 'squish' and stickyness between the layers. Yes, there's a bit of experimentation to get the profile right but on my Artillery Sidewinder X2 bed slinger I can regularly print watertight pipes and other designs. Another technique is to print in PLA and flood fill the interior in slow set low viscosity epoxy but it's a bit finnicky and messy. I've had a lot of fun doing 3D printing for PC interiors. In fact, I've currently got an air cooled modded Y40 on the Hyte subreddit. Marrying 3D printing with PC design could really be a game changer in the modded PC community.
quick tip for ppl, since im working with resin a lot and had the vid on in the back and didnt hear them saying that: resin takes in water. you can see how much over how long on the manufacturers sites. most that i use take in something like 5% water in 1-3 days. so they are not recommended to use in a loop or something that should hold water in general. they will deteriorate fast, and the loop will lose water fast from evaporation. some resins will lose their structural integrity after a hwile in water, and might be prone to warp or break under stress. resin also gets a bit pliable or atleast bendable after it gets soaked in hot water. so having it in a loop might cause the whole thing to distort after a while due to temps and exposure to water.
5:51 if you guys didn’t know why he suggested using uv paint it’s because if you watch one of his older videos he shows off his old pcs and one of those pcs had custom water cooling and uv reactive paint and a crap ton of I’ve lights. I just wanted to point this out because that is really cool that he still to this day loved uv pcs
@@VitalVampyr but not a fully 3d printed one idk maybe add 3d printed screws, GPU riser water-cooling blocks (and using the stuff in this video) + 3d printed monitor stand mouse and keyboard
Love seeing you guys dabbling in resin printing and this application is absolutely sick and limitless! Resin printing is what I do professionally. For finishing, get a highspeed handheld micromotor with Scotch Brite brush attachments. That takes the support flash off and you can add a little mineral oil for a nice, polished finish, making those clear and translucent materials really pop. Looks like you could improve on the support tip parameters as well. There were a couple of shots that showed some obvious uneven surfaces and bowing/sagging of the tube. Would love to consult on that if you need an opinion. Cheers.
I’ve been trying to figure out a good way to do all the tubes for water cooling a computer and this literally is my answer. I already know how to do all of this and it should be easy for me. Thanks for being guinea pigs for me.
You should look into the resleeving pipe process, you could potentially 3d print the lines with holes then sleeve it to avoid leaks. 3d print provides the hard structure, sleeve actually contains the fluid.
One interesting benefit to the spiral tubing is you've inadvertently created a secondary radiator in your PC. There's a heckin lot of extra surface area to radiate heat through.
I want to try and build custom distroplates with this idea. Finding one for each case is insane, but with this, you could beef it up and counter sink the screw areas for the fittings.
one thing i would love to see now, is a small reservoir built into the tube(so for instance the spiral could be filled out, and used as a reservoir) and it could make water cooling a tiny form factor pc better, since you can fit the tubes in where there is space, and make a small reservoir where there is space for it, and even a fill cap located in a convenient spot, and a drain port as well.
Hey LTT, i have a bit of experience with 3D printer resin and achiving a high gloss transparency with it. I highly recommend picking up some egger medical grade IEM lacquer and dip coating your prints. You'll need a special nm wavelegnth UV light but you can use two common amazon $30 flourecent nail lamps stacked instead of a $300 IEM cure chamber. Just maken sure you have some UV Goggles handy. If you dont want to use egger lacquer you can also use Mia Secret ultra shine finish Gel with the same lamps... Just make sure you thin it out with some lacquer thinner or blow/bleed out the excess because its thiccc. Being gel and all.
if you do have trouble making PLA water tight, you can also change the settings to completely infill the model, and also make the extruder hotter to meld the layers together far better, ive made a water fountain with PLA and was able to keep it water tight just with this trick
In my state we can print bottom receivers of pistols with resin printers using engineering resin as long as it isn’t sold and it’s so much stronger than you would think
Yo! Linus, this is one of the reason why I keep watching every video release you guys have.. This surely will change a lot for Hard line tubing a computer, and yeah.. having a waterfall as part of the water cooling would be an awesome idea, checking the effectivity for thermal I'm pretty sure that will be a game changer. The concept is phenomenal and the applications if proven effective for thermal cooling, has tons of potential. ~Im watching here all the way from PH.
![[TH] 2024 PMGC League | Survival Stage วันที่ 1 | PUBG MOBILE Global Championship](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/FVFT-PFwU80/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for pointing out the issue with the Sharge sponsor read, we're removing that short portion from this video and we'll reshoot it for future integrations.
Wow 1h ago
is this a trick to make me watch the ad spot
Gaming subreddit toxic, nice.😂
Does the ECC all have AdBlock? (I know it's not a yt ad.)
There goes the 100,000mAh dream 😔
3D print a case. Make it be the tubing and reservoir.
That is an incredible idea but would be hella complex to make
Metal 3d print the case so it can be the tubing, reservoir, and the radiator.
They already printed a case. Nice one
thats actually genious
That case already exists. Uh. I don't know the name. I saw it on one of the Asian pc build channels
Honestly one of the coolest videos LTT has posted in a while. Please go down this rabbit hole. Im sure more will be uncovered of how viable this might actually be
This!
I didn't realize there was a scanning spray that cleaned up with sublimation. I was only aware of ones that required manual cleaning.
Going to have to give it a try.
I use it all the time in my job. It can take quite a while to fully sublimate, but even if you end up having to clean some of it off manually, it's still a lot less messy than dealing with the non-sublimating stuff.
I have never even heard of scanning spray before and even I was super excited about it sublimating to remove itself
It works really well but it’s quite expensive. I usually just use foot spray unless it’s a very complex component
There was a recent post in the r/SFFPC subreddit where a user 3D printed molds instead. Then used regular hardline tubing and used heat to fit them to the mold. Was able to achieve something super complex but without having to go resin and print the full tubes. It would work great for an SI when they have fixed configurations, they could just premake all the tube runs with ease.
Custom Scientific Glass Blowing has a similar process where they use regular tubing and stock glass to form custom pieces for laboratory and manufacturing use which has to be of a high standard for professional use to withstand heat and pressure tolerances fit for purpose.
Or if you think of it as a prototyping route, make a model test fit... and then go completely over the top and follow an artistic route glass blower/sculpter to make the final product.
The looks you could pull off like go full glass crazy straw, mad-scientist labratory glass kit, abstract art like a glass knot or klein bottle, or waterflow sculptures.
If you don't want to resin print you can fdm print casings to hold softline tubing, you just thread the tubing through the printed casing and you have your shaped tubing
Open loop splashing water on a tower heatsink would be hilarious.
You'll probably have to top it off every week due to evaporation, but it'll double as a humidifier.
Auto refill with a toilet filler thing like recently did on the server cooler thing
@@toddblankenship7164 How about a PC that uses your home's toilet bowl as the reservoir?
Ah yes, the algae breeder 9000.
Have it be refilled by a Swipe+ bidet on a RasPi with a level sensor.
Every week? Eh, if the capacity is like common loops, several times a day to once every hour or so running an i9 with load on it. You'd have to demineralize the loop once or twice a day or your pump won't make a full day without seizing. Realistically you'd have to automate refill based on some level point or you'll cook stuff or have auto shutdown due to thermal alarm constantly.
Think of it this way, would you want a 100w+ air humidifier?
I am kind of glad that they brought the intro back. Honestly I feel like linus should do more off script stuff. Makes the video more genuine and spontaneous
That may not be off script though.
remember kids, the difference between doing something stupid and doing something for science is that for science you take notes of your results (and shout "FOR SCIENCE!!" )
You also have to share your findings(notes) with other people
"The difference between science and screwing around is writing it down."
-Adam Savage
@@Renegade605I came here to quote this exactly... thank you! :)
Gave me nostalgic Bill Nye vibes too.
Empirical testing and knowledge is the backbone of the scientific method, afterall. There is no science behind the scientific method; it is just a structured/formalized format for messing about.
You absolutely can use FDM printing to produce watertight objects, I have done it myself using PETG and even in vase mode (where the wall is just a single continuous extrusion). You just need to have well tuned settings. PLA isn't good for watertight objects but most other materials are absolutely fine. Yes prints have layers but if your settings are right then the layers should be fused enough that there isn't any gap.
@@conorstewart2214 Any recommendations for a YT videos that shows what you explained?
also having temps a little heigher than normal helps seal the gaps
Man I have been 3d printing for nearly 6 years now and this is very cool tbh I’m very surprised no one thought of this before but man you guys did a great job keep up the brilliant work guys your all the best.
He did it. He actually did it. The absolute madman.
Yeah, yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could that they didn't stop to think if they should.
Can't wait to see Linus on the r/madlads
I 100% hope you do have Alex do that. It sounds awesome!
"You're a mad man"
-Someone to Linus probably
@tomjansen629 said.
Linus to Linus*
Probably all his employees on a regular basis
Me to linus
About time you guys tried this, I did this years back with my Anycubic Photon, only did a few difficult bends, but 4 yrs later they are still in daily use.
Ah yes, the Dreamcast pc
Mosquito coil?
This was my first thought. Glad someone else came to the same conclusion!
bah, I didn't like it until this comment now I have to have it.
I see you a man of culture as well
Dreamcast IS the PC, since it's running on Windows CE, has a keyboard and mouse, and can go online (even still, due to fan-hosted dedicated servers).
Saw the snail spiral, the color and genuinely thought "Dreamcast?"
UV reactive resin mixed with classic neon signage bends would look amazing on a cyberpunk style build
That would be pretty sweet. I'm picturing the tubing coming out of the case and forming a neon sign-like word above the pc, with some (occasionally flickering..?) black light LEDs pointed at it, if they exist.
This is probably one of the most exiting, thought provoking things I've seen out of you guys. And that's a feat in and of itself.
You are mad
He is mad scientist
Mald*
Bald too
Maid
Yep
This is cool. If you have a small resin printer, you could conceivably print separate tube sections with each end having a male/female end that fit together and glued with resin. Each section can be oriented for best quality.
Damn you promised an NDH-15 waterfall cooler
Will wait to see that!
This opens a lot of opportunities! Why even have tubes, when you can have any shape? Why not build in additional little coolers at places where you have additional space? Why not build in LED and go crazy on the material, to create something really funky? You could really build individual custom PC and you could try out cooling solutions that have not been done before.
The orange spiral loop looks like a JALEBI.
Never heard of them. Looks yummy.
@@_D_P_ if you like sweets and sugar syrup, you will be at home.
Need Linus singing jalebi baby on an update
@@CyberNacho no
Came to the comments section looking for someone to say this and found out that its the second liked comment
You could also 3D print the reservoir, distribution block, and fittings with O-ring grooves. Plus you could vary the width of tubes, adapt between sizes without fittings, and make structural or decorative components that are part of the loop. Even FDM prints can be water tight, though it depends on material and print settings.
You can add a bit of adjustability into the tube as well by adding extra bends that allow some 'squishiness' in certain directions, depending on the rigidity of the plastic used.
The resin is usually very rigid. And putting more bends in it than necessary could lower your efficient fluid movement.
You can't just heat bend it like the plastic or the glass.
I didn't know scanning spray just fades away!! That is gonna change a lot for me. Wonderful!
This is the kind of shit that I love ltt for. It’s crazy enough that I’d never try it first, but now that they’ve done it I’m kind of intrigued to try.
Great video 👍
i gota give props to the borderline fear in linuss voice when he tells charles to sit down he actually sounds a little worried
“I paid for the whole tube, i must use the whole tube” ahh cooling tube
A N I M E
N
I
M
E
This is why I love this channel. You take thought experiments and go for it.
Linus took off his metal challenge gauntlet, slapped Charles Harwood across the face, took his puppy, and stomped over his flower garden and said this isn’t a challenge. 😂😂😂
wow
Saying that something isn't a challenge make it a challenge.
Watching the 3D printed tubing in action felt like witnessing the future. The possibilities this opens up are insane.
"im confident enought to risk my own 4080" *nudges the pile of 10 behind the table
That orange spiral looks like JALEBI sweet....!!!😋😋😋😋😋
10:04 - YES YES YES!!! YES!! I want to see this so badly!!
It's pretty fun in seeing how far 3D printing continues to progress!
12:37 umm this should be 10,000mAh rather than the 100,000mAh stated in the video... (If I'm not mistaken)
Glad I wasn’t the only one who spotted the Engineer’s numerical disabilities
Don't you have to be < 99,999 mAh to be on a plane?
@@donc-m4900 yea that's the legal limit, also on the powerbank's website it says 10,000mah so he said the wrong number
@@staffie85 (he's a writer not a engineer)
@@donc-m4900 The limit is 100Wh. For a 14.4V laptop battery, that would be 7000mAh
4:56
One thing you could improve:
The edge of the bending looks pretty sharp. Plastic doesn't like these sharp edges because there can act alot of forces, which can lead to hairline cracks. What you want is a curve redirecting this force.
12:36 - 12:39 "100,000mAh battery capacity"
Hey Alex, you've got some info the printer doesn't have? Cause it printed 10,000mAh on the powerbank (as shown at 12:44)...
Resin toxicity varies dramatically depending on the formulation - and there are low toxicity formulations that are dramatically safer to use, but be aware that to achieve low toxicity tradeoffs in cost, mechanical (ex, tensile strength, glass transition temp), printable (viscosity, curing wavelengths, curing time, etc), optical (coloration, UV stabilization, opacity), or chemical (water sensitivity, ozone sensitivity, etc) must be made, so do your research on what you need to make the print actually function in its intended role and its compatibility with printers/curing lights/etc.
I personally work with a very low toxicity PMMA/acrylic formulation for most of what I do personally, but while its got pretty decent mechanical and cost properties, it does make notable tradeoffs in chemical (high water sensitivity causing hydrolysis of the plastic before being fully cured), optical (low clarity on "transparent"/translucent prints), and printable (high viscosity) properties
The point is that its usually far more toxic than regular fdm printing, most hobbyist filaments besides abs asa or composites, dont really produce Vocs or affect air quality if you arent right next to them
*Dreamcast startup intensifies*
Thank you, I too was thinking Dreamcast lol 🍥
Mashes the start button.
Looks more like a resistive heated stovetop to me.
If the tubing does not fail within six months I would recommend leaving it in direct sunlight or under UV lights to see how long it survives thereafter. I would also love to see a comparison with parts printed by xometry or someone with a traditional industrial 355nm wavelength printer using ceramic resin or something of the like. The desktop models or DLP models use 405nm wavelength to cure the resin.
As a user of shinning 3Ds scanners! It’s great to see this company get some exposure!
Nice
This is super cool but the GENUINE excitement just makes it all the cooler. Can't wait for the waterfall cooled PC.
THE INTRO IS BACK
YESSSSSSSS
literally all i like to see in an ltt video
6:38 "Worked out pretty great so far" As Alex is turning the case on its side, you see the water dripping off the bottom of the case lol
You know who is also as mad? Our sponsor, Acronis!
Okay jokes aside this is really cool. It’s even done in a SSUPD case with the Barrow combined pump/reservoir/block
Just want to add that as I have grown older, this is one of the very few channels that still manages to maintain my attention
Its insane that this doesn't leak like hell
Oh it will. I thought about doing this almost 6 years ago. Turns out that resin prints dissolve in water. Hope that the resin they used resolves this issue.
@@hed420 There are plenty of resins that aren't water soluble. In fact, can you guess what kind of technique dentists use nowadays?
Surprise! Resin 3D printing.
Well resin has been known to be water tight for years. Most of the resins for hobby use don't stand up well in water. That said there are plenty of ones that are water safe. Some of the new ones that you can thermal cure on top of the UV cure so you don't end up with the uncured internal resin issues although it is absurdly expensive and I don't think I have seen clear.
With the right settings, you can do this with FDM printing.
7:25 yeah Charles 😂
I've never water cooled anything and don't know anything about it outside what I see on this channel, and this is still a super cool video.
That's so funny that you guys had to tell Charles that it wasn't a challenge because he's 100% going to take that as a challenge😂😂😂😂
This is one of the only times I was ahead of the game with one of your sponsors. We use Acronis for a number of our IT needs and it has definitely made my job a crap ton easier. It's also super affordable compared to anything close to a competitor.
4:04 means your settings are not correct, although it's less relevant because you can coat the stuff in epoxy. I printed a part in petg for a hydrolic tank and it is indeed water tight.
There is a alternative where you fill the part with sand and put it in a box of packed sand then heat it enough to somewhat melt which will also seal the print.
Maybe on a high-end printer I would agree with you, but on a lot of the extremely low quality low-cost consumer models, I would not expect those prints to be water tight. And yes, there are solutions for that problem but coding an entire tube in epoxy at that point, why don't you just use traditional hardline methods because it's impressive enough for way less manual labor
@@the_undead because you can do shapes that are impossible for a normal tube.
Also I do this crap on my used cr10 max.
@@the_undeadI made water tight stuff on an ender 3 lol
@@xXlURMOMlXx but can you reliably do that with relatively thin tubes? And also can you do that from printer to printer because something that you need to understand Is these cheap consumer models? Do not have high tolerances so you could get one that's capable of amazing precision and you can get another one that couldn't print watertight tubes to save its life, especially because a lot of these companies do not care about the tolerances they're they are just trying to sell you really cheap garbage
@@the_undead that's a skill issue. The printers are cheap because you have to build them and calibrate it yourself. It's a pita but you get what you pay for. Spend a little more for a bambu and it's a non issue
I like the shorter form videos. It's easier to watch and keeps my attention longer than those 30+ minute videos.
"You're definetly a mad man"
-Someone who watched all linus dropping stuff scenes
Okay I will admit that is pretty awesome...been watching a ton of custom loop videos since my next build I want to finally do my first hard line...and this is just cool!
i miss the beard
don't we all 😞
He says it's staying off until he's finished painting his motorcycle pink.
I don't.
if you clearcoat the resin print you can achieve translucency. I have lightly wetsanded some resin prints, clearcoated them and ended up with parts clear enough to easily read text through.
Resin prints can continue to cure in sunlight and end up cracking so a UV clearcoat is a nice way to mitigate that
Linus is legit good at front of the camera... Like he makes me sooo invested in the video...
It's like he's talking to me specifically not just talking at the camera...
He talks like an overproduced, hyped up kids presenter 😂😂 you're joking
He does have 16 years of experience doing that
@@mycelia_ow nah, he never used to act like he's jacked up 😂 been watching him be consumed by corporate for about a decade lol
@@CannaKittydid you watch all the way through with the video?
Hey LInus, you absolutely can print watertight tubing in PETG on a regular 3D printer. I've done a bunch of experiments on this because I can't use resin printers in our apartment. Over extruding the flow rate along with reducing cooling of PETG can give the right amount of 'squish' and stickyness between the layers. Yes, there's a bit of experimentation to get the profile right but on my Artillery Sidewinder X2 bed slinger I can regularly print watertight pipes and other designs. Another technique is to print in PLA and flood fill the interior in slow set low viscosity epoxy but it's a bit finnicky and messy. I've had a lot of fun doing 3D printing for PC interiors. In fact, I've currently got an air cooled modded Y40 on the Hyte subreddit. Marrying 3D printing with PC design could really be a game changer in the modded PC community.
He’s only mad without the beard
quick tip for ppl, since im working with resin a lot and had the vid on in the back and didnt hear them saying that: resin takes in water. you can see how much over how long on the manufacturers sites. most that i use take in something like 5% water in 1-3 days. so they are not recommended to use in a loop or something that should hold water in general. they will deteriorate fast, and the loop will lose water fast from evaporation. some resins will lose their structural integrity after a hwile in water, and might be prone to warp or break under stress. resin also gets a bit pliable or atleast bendable after it gets soaked in hot water. so having it in a loop might cause the whole thing to distort after a while due to temps and exposure to water.
5:51 if you guys didn’t know why he suggested using uv paint it’s because if you watch one of his older videos he shows off his old pcs and one of those pcs had custom water cooling and uv reactive paint and a crap ton of I’ve lights. I just wanted to point this out because that is really cool that he still to this day loved uv pcs
AESUB is an awesome company. They sponsored my formula student team to enable us to scan our carbon fiber monocoque. Incredible stuff the do.
12:35 That power bank sure doesn't look like it does 100k mAH
I don't think I've ever seen someone write kilo milli before. They're literally opposites; just write 100 Ah.
@@aaronmdjonesbruh. Different measurements. They don't cancel each other out.
@@fkosh2 yeah, they do. But 100 Ah is quite large even for a car battery. It must be 10.
@@fkosh2 They do cancel eachother out; please learn the metric system. Kilo (k) means thousand, Milli (m) means thousandth. 1000 * 1/1000 = 1.
I loved the “Charles that’s not a challenge just sit down.”
Linus do you prefer bagels or croissants ?
i like tortoises
Food
This could be combined with that Humble PC and look absolutely incredible
Printed 3D PC when?
What's wrong with the cardboard PC?
They already made a 3D printed computer case.
@@VitalVampyr but not a fully 3d printed one idk maybe add 3d printed screws, GPU riser water-cooling blocks (and using the stuff in this video) + 3d printed monitor stand mouse and keyboard
I want to download a PC
Love seeing you guys dabbling in resin printing and this application is absolutely sick and limitless! Resin printing is what I do professionally. For finishing, get a highspeed handheld micromotor with Scotch Brite brush attachments. That takes the support flash off and you can add a little mineral oil for a nice, polished finish, making those clear and translucent materials really pop. Looks like you could improve on the support tip parameters as well. There were a couple of shots that showed some obvious uneven surfaces and bowing/sagging of the tube. Would love to consult on that if you need an opinion. Cheers.
Linus- I'm not a mad man ❌
Also Linus- Creates the weirdest PC cooling known to mankind✅
Recent iPhones have LiDAR sensors that you can use to generate 3D models with apps like Polycam. It can be a lot better if the app is more refined.
the bland video title really undersells how interesting the video actually is
I’ve been trying to figure out a good way to do all the tubes for water cooling a computer and this literally is my answer. I already know how to do all of this and it should be easy for me. Thanks for being guinea pigs for me.
6:20 GYATTTTTT
I'm loving the Dreamcast PC good times. It's Thinking
Damn
first comment
You should look into the resleeving pipe process, you could potentially 3d print the lines with holes then sleeve it to avoid leaks.
3d print provides the hard structure, sleeve actually contains the fluid.
Please start offering this service! You'll make so much $$$
As someone who builds underwater hardware, it was fun to see them learn lessons that I learned a few years ago.
I just appreciate the fact you're using a Meshlicious case! (I think...). Love mine a lot, despite the trickery in routing things!
That's one cool-ass Dreamcast logo.
Remember that old multi-coloured pipes screensaver? You could literally make that into a case now... love it. Also kinda want to see it
Tube clear that's pretty cool. You got a fan out of me.
One interesting benefit to the spiral tubing is you've inadvertently created a secondary radiator in your PC. There's a heckin lot of extra surface area to radiate heat through.
I want to try and build custom distroplates with this idea. Finding one for each case is insane, but with this, you could beef it up and counter sink the screw areas for the fittings.
one thing i would love to see now, is a small reservoir built into the tube(so for instance the spiral could be filled out, and used as a reservoir) and it could make water cooling a tiny form factor pc better, since you can fit the tubes in where there is space, and make a small reservoir where there is space for it, and even a fill cap located in a convenient spot, and a drain port as well.
this is genuinely awesome. And the cost of these resin printers is so much cheaper than I thought.
Charles Harwood callout at 7:20
Hey LTT, i have a bit of experience with 3D printer resin and achiving a high gloss transparency with it.
I highly recommend picking up some egger medical grade IEM lacquer and dip coating your prints. You'll need a special nm wavelegnth UV light but you can use two common amazon $30 flourecent nail lamps stacked instead of a $300 IEM cure chamber.
Just maken sure you have some UV Goggles handy.
If you dont want to use egger lacquer you can also use Mia Secret ultra shine finish Gel with the same lamps... Just make sure you thin it out with some lacquer thinner or blow/bleed out the excess because its thiccc. Being gel and all.
if you do have trouble making PLA water tight, you can also change the settings to completely infill the model, and also make the extruder hotter to meld the layers together far better, ive made a water fountain with PLA and was able to keep it water tight just with this trick
Custom reservoirs would be cool. A custom screen name one, or the name of a build or the shape of a dinosaur or something lol.
In my state we can print bottom receivers of pistols with resin printers using engineering resin as long as it isn’t sold and it’s so much stronger than you would think
I feel like, ever since Linus gave up the role of CEO, the videos and ideas have just gotten better and better!
2016 Linus is back
(I haven't watched ltt in a while but the white coat and camera angle are rather nostalgic)
Yo! Linus, this is one of the reason why I keep watching every video release you guys have.. This surely will change a lot for Hard line tubing a computer, and yeah.. having a waterfall as part of the water cooling would be an awesome idea, checking the effectivity for thermal I'm pretty sure that will be a game changer. The concept is phenomenal and the applications if proven effective for thermal cooling, has tons of potential. ~Im watching here all the way from PH.
The orange swirl immediately got me thinking of the Dreamcast.
Looks like the Sega DreamCast logo. Still Great Job on The Video! :)