A warning to anyone modding this keyboard, the screwholes holding the metal frame on can be easily stripped, so only tighten the allen screws until they make contact.
The tilde key is the only key that requires a 3 prong switch because of the USB C port is situated underneath. So you can use 5 prong switch sets, but just be weary that your tilde will most likely have to be modified
Nice Video mate! Changing the Keycaps alone feels so much better on the K4. The original ones feel pretty cheap. I also used some Killmat and it sounds so mucher better without changing or lubing the switches.
Can you link all the items that you used in the mod? I found switches polyfill and switch lubing kit, i cannot find durock stabilisers and how you removed and fit the new stabilisers? Are these plate mounted or screw in? Also can i use prelubes milky yellow pro from amazon?
Haha yeah I honestly underestimated how long it would take but once I started I was committed I couldn’t stop haha. But I don’t even use it anymore. I built a new keyboard from scratch that took way less effort and I love it.
The power draw from a keyboard is so low your battery is never going to get hot enough to be concerned about that. I just made sure to not put foam around the battery area to leave it enough space to breathe.
GREAT Video. But I have a question: It would be possible to use some LOW PROFILE switches (and Keycaps) in this K4 keyboard? Im thinking about it and I cant find any review about this possibility. Thans for the video again!
Wondering if you have any tips for installing the stabs? New to this and put durock pcb mount stabs from switchkeys. The stabs just dont lift up with the switch when I press it.
It sounds like you may have the inner piece back to front or you’ve got the poles going into the bottom hole and it needs to be the top hole to get leverage.
An awesome sound, does it (kinda) work if I keep the original gateron brown switches and I apply lube and all other mods? I bought it a couple of months ago and there is a little clearance inside the switch that makes the keys wobble a lot and they make a lot of noise.
Yes lubing the switches will make a big difference but if you want my advice, buy some pre-lubed switches and just swap them out because the time it takes to lube is painful. I would rather just swap switches which is like a 20 min job compared with lubing which is literally hours on hours.
Yes and no. Lubing them would make them sound way softer yes but browns are still a semi tactile switch compared with the linear milky yellows I have used in this video.
A warning to anyone modding this keyboard, the screwholes holding the metal frame on can be easily stripped, so only tighten the allen screws until they make contact.
The tilde key is the only key that requires a 3 prong switch because of the USB C port is situated underneath. So you can use 5 prong switch sets, but just be weary that your tilde will most likely have to be modified
That's interesting. Did not know that but makes sense.
Is there any advantage using the 5 pin over 3 pin switches?
Nice Video mate! Changing the Keycaps alone feels so much better on the K4. The original ones feel pretty cheap.
I also used some Killmat and it sounds so mucher better without changing or lubing the switches.
Can you link all the items that you used in the mod? I found switches polyfill and switch lubing kit, i cannot find durock stabilisers and how you removed and fit the new stabilisers? Are these plate mounted or screw in? Also can i use prelubes milky yellow pro from amazon?
Sounds so much better after the mod but 7+ hours! You should do a video on modding a K3v2 and use my keyboard! ;)
Haha yeah I honestly underestimated how long it would take but once I started I was committed I couldn’t stop haha. But I don’t even use it anymore. I built a new keyboard from scratch that took way less effort and I love it.
Where did you get your key caps pictured in the thumbnail? Thanks ☺️
They are from AliExpress
ahhh so beautiful, love keychron k4
U can instal pcb mount stabilizer on this keyboard ??? I mean this pcb does not support pcb mount. How?????
I realized my K4 is not hot swapable...ugh...worth it you think to try to desolder all the switches, and resolder millmax sockets?
This was awesome. Thank you for sharing!
Have you got an update on this? I got the same one, it’ll be my first mod and I’m curious about tape/foam on a case with a battery.
The power draw from a keyboard is so low your battery is never going to get hot enough to be concerned about that. I just made sure to not put foam around the battery area to leave it enough space to breathe.
Welcome back bro
My No.1
GREAT Video. But I have a question: It would be possible to use some LOW PROFILE switches (and Keycaps) in this K4 keyboard? Im thinking about it and I cant find any review about this possibility. Thans for the video again!
Due to the position of the LEDs on the board I don't think it would be possible to be honest. Bummer I know.
Great video, Is this k4 the "Hot Swappable" variant?
Yeah. I mean I wouldn't have been able to replace the switches if it wasn't.
@@TheGeekZone lol yea sorry kinda new to this. I almost ordered the non hot swap just now. I thought maybe the hot swap just made it "easier." lol
Wondering if you have any tips for installing the stabs? New to this and put durock pcb mount stabs from switchkeys. The stabs just dont lift up with the switch when I press it.
It sounds like you may have the inner piece back to front or you’ve got the poles going into the bottom hole and it needs to be the top hole to get leverage.
Thank for your video
Where did you get the polyfill ?
Would you give me a website to get it ?
I bought it from Switch Keys.
An awesome sound, does it (kinda) work if I keep the original gateron brown switches and I apply lube and all other mods? I bought it a couple of months ago and there is a little clearance inside the switch that makes the keys wobble a lot and they make a lot of noise.
Yes lubing the switches will make a big difference but if you want my advice, buy some pre-lubed switches and just swap them out because the time it takes to lube is painful. I would rather just swap switches which is like a 20 min job compared with lubing which is literally hours on hours.
Did you end up lubing the brown switches or buying pre lubed? I am doing the same thing now and wondering lol
Would this sound similar with Gateron browns?
Yes and no. Lubing them would make them sound way softer yes but browns are still a semi tactile switch compared with the linear milky yellows I have used in this video.
I didn't know i was clicking on an ASMR video lol