Multi-zone RADIANT HEAT from our outdoor WOOD BOILER (091) | Hydronic System - Part 1
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ธ.ค. 2021
- We start the install of our multi-zone hydronic radiant heating system which is fueled by our Central Boiler Classic Edge 760 outdoor wood boiler. We install our zone manifolds, pumps, and mixers. We also get into a disagreement with our inspector regarding how the system will function.
Recording date: 05 November 2021
you do amazing work.
Thank you very much! We do make mistakes, but we’re learning. Folks on YT often help with suggestions.
wow what a great video.
Thank you. Glad you found it helpful.
Nice video. I’m in the process of hooking my Central Boiler up to my closed system and was worried about over pressurizing the system when the boiler is cranking out some BTU’s.
The water above the boiler level will drain back and possibly air-lock the pump. There is a device called a pressure sustaining valve that will hold the column of water that is above the boiler level (set by pressure). Where I work we have an open thermal storage tank (open to atmosphere like your boiler) and a building that is 80 feet taller than the tank. That building has a sustaining valve on the return line to keep the chilled water from draining back. There is a check valve on the outlet of the booster pump to keep the water from draining back that way. In our case, these are relatively large pipes (6"). Our ground floor closed loop boiler system feeding the units at the roof also has a sustaining valve. Before that was installed the operators could open the strainers and lose the water column.
How much elevation change between the highest point in the hydronic loop and the minimum level in the boiler? 2.31 feet=1 psi. If it is only a few psi then a check valve in the return may be enough. Many take 2 psi to open which would hold 4.6 feet of head behind it.
Thank you for your amazing comment. Great info. A 6” pipe up 80’ seems like quite the thing. Makes what we’re doing seem very silly. Ha.
It’s only a foot or two between the top water level in the boiler and highest point in the upstairs loop. So probably less than 1 psi of head. Our videos are about 2 months behind reality, so we already know how this story ends. :). Basically it works just fine.
We installed a check valve on the output-side of our zone circulators, and we haven’t had any air get into the system. We installed the check valve to prevent “ghost flow”, but it should also help with potential drainage. We also upgraded our pumps to models that self-purge air (we’ll discuss that upgrade in a future vid), so that’s a nice fail-safe.
It’s interesting to see it working. And I’m looking forward to sharing the rest of the story. Thanks again for your thoughts and guidance. We appreciate it.
could you put a check valve in on the upstairs loop so it won't let the water leak back?
Heh. Great point. We actually end up doing that. You’ll see it in a couple weeks. I’m not sure the check valve is necessary, but it’s cheap and easy insurance.
@@wanderwoodfarm3801 if it makes the inspector happy it’s worth it. 😆