🔴 Miniware MDP-P906 Power Supply Review & Repair - No.1041
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 ก.ย. 2022
- Miniware MDP-P906 Power Supply Review & Repair
I review the Miniware MDP-P906 power supply, it has a surprising outcome!
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Mine has the same issue. Thanks for documenting your repair! It gave me enough inspiration to save it from the landfill.
Never before have I needed something so much, and never knew it till I saw it. Despite the cap issue, I think that little gem has it's place in portable tech work for sure.
Marco Reps reviewed the MDP-P905 with the display addon a while back.
I’m so pleased you repaired it and continued testing. I like your approach. Subscribed.
Thank you
@@TheDefpom Sarcastically calling a POS would have been hilarious but not so good for the relationship.
Very cool. Thanks for the review. The power supply seemed to be well made. The features seemed handy. The small size is darned handy. I'm guessing that it was just a flaky cap. I have a shoe box full of small desktop devices that I can just grab when I'm puttering at my desk (as opposed to my bench where I've stacked all the usual goodies). This would fit in nicely. Appreciate the video....
Is there actually any need to make a PSU that small ? Would have been interesting to see how it copes thermally at full load for a long time.
I will need to set it up on a better DC power supply using the DC in Jack instead of USBC so I can crank it up higher for a longer time, that is something I will do when I get some spare time.
No problem whatsoever at full load in my tests. The fan turns on and the case gets warm, after 15 minutes its below 50° C on thermal camera due to high efficency (around 95%) as claimed by MINIWARE.
Thanks for the excellent review. It would be interesting to see what kind of voltages those caps see.
"It worked well till it blew up!" Haha!😄
Umm why is it ticking
given the smoke was getting worse I'd wager it was still working after it blew up
I had a Turnigy RC lithium charger do the same thing a few years ago changed the cap and not a problem since
That looks like a competitor for the Toolkit RC stuff. The day my P200 arrived, I short circuit tested the output, when set to a low current limit and the mains board smoked. Smoke everywhere too.
The general rule I've always used is to spec capacitors for twice the max expected voltage. A 30V rail should have caps rated for 60V, or more.
The problem with that is you usually end up using significantly larger components, which affects the form factor of any portable equipment. However, it does make sense to overspec voltages for electrolytics, but the question will always be "by how much?" If you're buying quality components, and you're certain that you'll never get spikes in excess of your maximum expected voltage, then there's nothing wrong with using 35V rated caps on a 30V absolute max supply rail. If you get a genuinely bad part, then I'm afraid that a bad 60V cap is just as likely as a bad 35V cap to spill its guts on a 30V line. The failure mechanism is the same for both caps.
@@markonw6661 I agree completely about the useful life of electrolytic caps, and it is the usual 'U;-curve. However, unless you are suggesting that the PSU has been in use for 12 years, I don't think the long-term viability has any bearing on the failure in the video, do you. My point is that I'm completely unaware of any study that shows any effect of derating a cap on its short-term failure. Sure, a 63V cap is likely to last longer than a 35V on a 25V rail _in the long run,_ but I don't believe it's any less likely to fail in the first 72 hours. A defect is a defect.
Leakage in solid polymer-Al caps comes from imperfect insulation in the dielectric layer. As I noted earlier, the problem with solid caps is the inability of an oxide layer to heal, so leakage will always increase over time, and I firmly believe that the failure shown in the video was caused by a voltage spike further damaging the dielectric, leading to escalating current through the capacitor. I really don't think you can blame ESR and ripple for heating the component when the failure occurred under _no load_ conditions.
@@markonw6661 I started as EE in 1972, so please don't try to patronise me. I don't need lessons from self-important lab rats who don't even take the time to understand the scenario.
In order for ripple to exist you have to charge and discharge the capacitor. When there is no load, the capacitor is not discharging; the dc voltage on it is stable, and there's *no ripple.*
It doesn't matter whether you have a linear circuit or a switching circuit, if you're drawing no current, you won't have any ripple on the capacitor.
Did you not see the video? The cap failed when no current was being drawn. VC = It, so I=0 means V=0. I don't think I can simplify it any further for you. The only mechanism for heating a capacitor which has a stable dc voltage on it is leakage, and there's no way ripple can come into it.
How on earth can you claim to be an investigator into failures and then try to tell me that a capacitor blowing under no load with minutes of first belling switched is not a early failure. Do you know what shape a bell is? Failures of electronic components are U-shaped: more failures very early on, then a low rate of failures for the usable lifetime, followed by a an increasing rate of failure beyond that. Why do you think we have "burn-in" periods for a lot of equipment? It's to catch most of those early failures that we expect will occur. Am I to assume your company just lets the customer find those for you?
It's clear the capacitor that failed overheated because it passed excessive direct current directly through a short in the dielectric. For a capacitor to fail because of excessive ripple current causing heating in the ESR, you need to be pushing a lot of current both into and out of the cap. That is only going to occur when large currents are being drawn from the rail that the capacitor is smoothing.
Feel free to give your considered estimate of the value of the ESR and the ripple current that caused the cap to overheat, and justify how the ripple current and associated ripple voltage came about when no load was connected. Then we can all have a good laugh.
@@markonw6661 You don't understand that ripple voltage will be dependent on load current, and this failed under zero load? There's nothing wrong with being an inexperienced newb, but trying to talk down to people with far more knowledge isn't going to ingratiate yourself.
That capacitor issue made it actually much more interesting video :D Nice one, it would be nice to see also cap replacement. :D
A neat prodct but blowing caps shoudn't be there on a €200 product.
@@hoggif low quality cap,why are you wondering?
Miniware is just milking their customers the same way as Apple do it for decades.
Mine unit was fine. I did a review of this model some time ago (with EN subs), you can check it on my channel. Its a very cool device. Buck-boost on the input and linear output, passed all tests. Very accurate, well built, efficent and almost zero noise. My only concern was about a voltage overshoot after switching on the output.
Overall not fitting my needs though. Without the MDP-M01 display module, the P906 interface is very inconvenient.
Interesting, could be a bit thicker to allow for a bigger screen/digits and more spacing for controls without impacting portability.
Neat! it is certainly cool for the functionality and form factor. But I dont know if I would trust all those tiny mosfets getting their heat dissipated through vias and solder. Thanks for a doing a teardown so we can see the build quality! Too bad for that faulty cap! that is why you over spec your voltages by more than just 5v.
I like it need to be 100v if I switched all the caps and mosfets would the software compensate if I feed it 67 volts. Amperage 40 amps too. I want to put this on a bike I want consistent voltage and amperage regardless of battery voltage. If that makes sense
Of all capacitor types, I HATE those the most! These junk caps have a very high failure rate.
I did have to buy some bulk caps of this type for a Channel Master PVR that is freezing up and very unstable.
With these units, it's ALWAYS the caps and sadly, they are of this type.
The afterthought that I had was that perhaps it may not be prudent to recap this PVR using the same type.
Perhaps I should replace caps with much better ones. The only issue, is that it may be more difficult as I'd have to bend the legs to become SMD compatible as there's little to no through-hole.
Oh what fun.
Nice review
Great video. Have the older version of the psu. Works great.
Btw. Your SDL1020X-E Have an extra digit. Maybe a video on how to hack it?
Yes this is now a 1030 👍
I've tried a few mini power supplies, so far I've been very disappointed with all of them. They fail or just don't perform well. I might order this in to give it a go but my overall recommendation is to just get a proper full size bench power supply. Even the cheap ones have served me well.
USB Power Supply would need to have Power Delivery compatibility to work with this one. Just something to note on the review :).
Not a bad little unit. The reason it is so small is because it is basically just a buck/boost converter capable of 10amps. All the actual power supply stuff is external in whatever power supply you connect to it .
Thanks for the review.
The price for this thing though $200 it's a lot for what it is. For that amount of money you can buy an actual adjustable power supply.
@@BinaryOptionRomaniaBOR1 That is very true. I was trying to keep my comment positive, but yeah, it is an expensive buck/boost converter really........
Mine lasted about 30 seconds before the input current limit started reading back false values, and the output voltage limited at 0V9 open circuit.
From what I could find on Aliexpress, they put a hefty price tag on this one!
I prefer a Riden 6018W with case and 800W PS. More power, less money. And still doing strong with all the original caps 😂.
On the other hand, releasing the magic smoke in a review is premium!
Ya looked at the 6018W it was $250 CDN delivered I think. But he did not have the magic smoke collection system active. :(
"Toolkitrc P200"
Thats a nice mini powersupply with GaN technology
Going from batteries to a capacitor bank the your power supply to my controller to my hub motors .
I don’t like voltage sag .
The power supply will compensate taking the brunt of the battery and also efficient getting the most usable power out of it .
Perhaps under no load the capacitor was seeing a much larger than 30V on it (if it was on the unregulated side of things). They should have put in 50V caps for some margin.
@@jaro6985 Yeah, I don't know if there's an LDO for the final output. If there is, it will have to have at least 2-5V headroom to have good ripple performance and decent load regulation. In addition, any variation in the voltages will have to be accounted for. For the FET to have a 30V rating is dumb. It will be stressed especially under no load conditions. I guess for sake of miniaturization, they have skimped on the specs.
4:40 the better way is the MDP-XP, or the control unit. The power supply can work stsndalone... Just a bit fiddly. Holding the menu button steps per half volt iirc. 8:00 ah, set button. Been a while. Only used the previous P905.
13:40 It looks to me like the Red labeled cap on the left side of the board (surrounded by black labeled caps) looks like the top of the dome is bulged up, compared to the other caps.
Hahah, 17:40, found!! 👍
I could be wrong, but do I see completely uninsulated output posts? On something that can output 10A? Looks like a fire waiting to happen.
There's a reason why most binding posts are recessed or have plastic shrouds.
All it takes is a dropped paperclip or a screwdriver to roll in the wrong direction, and suddenly your workbench is on fire with your workshop burning to the ground.
I will have to check, but I think it has clear plastic covers over the outside.
I have 3 of the little brother and one screen. No issues out of mine so far.
how do they work exactly? I guess you can't power them from one source and put them in series, since there's no galvanic isolation?
I have only used them individually to test different parts of a circuit under test. I haven't tried them in series. Perhaps someone else can help answer your question.
Can you make a adapter to correct the spacing for the plugs ?
It would certainly be possible
15:22 lower right corner, one of the two black squares looks suspicious...
I might have spotted it before you, I'll continue watching now and find out! ;)
Ok I didn't. =D
It was still fun following you around looking for the fault though.
I wonder if the output went in to oscillation causing the cap to blow?
He mentioned all the caps in that grid were in parallel, bit of a coincidence that the only one with red printing blew up.
HP E361x, working well, even after 30years.
No need for tiny disposable gadgets!
cluelss..are you comparing an extremely heavy low wattage old PSU that likely are on the verge to fail from age to a tiny 300W adj. mobile power supply?
I have the same load but mine does not have the possibility to use banana plugs.
I purchased the after market knobs on eBay, they are from a binding post set, they have the same threads so it was possible to simply replace the original knobs, much more convenient.
Dang. I love PSUs. Any death hurts.
So then? Alarms off. That wasn't a PSU!
A tiny gadget. A toy.
I share your love, too. And in fact is a PSU what you need, to make this overpriced DC/DC Converter work;)
Good thing you have a hoard of capacitors! 😁
And yet I still didn’t have quite the right one LOL
Do you read the instructions before filming and reviewing or just figure it out as you go?
It really depends on the device and how much time I have, sometimes I do the review from the perspective of someone that just got it and trying to figure it out, sometimes I will have a quick skim through instructions to pick out things to talk about which may not be obvious. In this case as no instructions came with the unit I went with the figure it out as I went approach, as that is how purchasers would experience it.
I did not finish watching it yet, but my fingers are itchy. Isn’t that a punctured mosfet at 14’31”?
“Yeah, it’s nothing”
so it's a buck converter in an enclosure then?
It’s much better than that, extremely low noise
35volt rating is very close to the 30volt maybe a 40/50volt would have been better, you need to order more capacitors🙂
Yes I agree. To both points.
Concur, it is extremely bad design practice to fit any component that could operate relatively close to its maximum or even 'supposed' working voltage, even if quality parts are used. In my design days caps were generally selected to be three times expected voltage. Twice should be an absolute minimum (in my opinion). Jamming a 300W power supply in such a small enclosure is asking for trouble.
What is that opening tool you used in the video? I want to get one
I showed it in a recent mailbag, I’m not sure which one, but within the past few weeks, check the video descriptions for it.
Simply find on aliexpress Daniu brand...
have you checked if the negative output is tied to the negative input?
if yes, you couldnt make a dual rail supply (positive from one to the negative of another) when both are hooked up to the same power source (or when both power sources grounded their negative pin).
90W "powersupply" (that isnt one since you need a actual power supply to use it) that costs 150-200 bucks? what were they thinking.
its literally a fancy version of those ebay buck boost converters for 10..15 bucks with a oled and wireless strapped to it.
they made their name with the ts soldering iron series which for 50 bucks blew stations away that cost orders of magnitude more. great job
but this psu is just a bad product for a bad price and they started getting greedy.
I will have to check off the outputs are isolated.
@@TheDefpom That would require an intermediate circuit converter with a fully insulated transformer. But I only see the (relatively small) flyback(or similar type of that circuit-family) converter inductance at 18:52 . The transformers of potential-free converters are a lot larger with a nominal current of 10A.
The protection, the stabilization and the wiring of the voltage outputs is then much more demanding. I wouldn't expect that.
Already measured? It's a matter of 10 seconds, or? Thank you for that and the video!:)
Agree with you at 100%
Also this fancy smoky box isn't even powered by fancy GaN mosfets.
Agree with you at 100%
Also this fancy smoky box isn't even powered by fancy GaN mosfets.
@@gregandark8571 gan mosfets are not intended for low voltage applications like these. they are used in high voltage switching at 200..400volts where traditional silicon mosfets have a high RDS(on) resistance, but on low voltage stuff silicon mosfets have a much lower resistance currently
That thing is rated at 30V but only has 35V caps?
All logic says that those caps are under rated!
Why is there an nRF24 on a power supply? (Visible at 13:43)
It is to connect different modules wireless... There is a whole serie of things to come, such as electronic load and stackable PSU modules...
@@muppetpaster like what modules?
Was that cap not in backwards? Looks like it to me.
At 18:05 you can see the silk screen and it was in correctly, but I've seen them in backwards so that's a good thing to check.
🤔 It's scarily tiny for something that is designed to handle 300W! Personally - unless I REALLY needed it that small - I'd pass on buying it until they've sold a few thousand without problems.
Does anyone know what brand that capacitor was?
For a recap project I have that uses these types of caps, I bought a kit with many values and sizes.
They LOOK exactly the same as those in the video and the kit I got has ELNA at the top of the values and RVT below the values.
I believe that RVT may mean Low ESR, Long Life.
As for the ones with the red strip on them, I notice in the video that it says, "MV" below the values.
I think that the MV indicator just means that these caps can withstand HCFC cleaning agents for five minutes, which allows all circuit board components to be cleaned together, at the same time, without resorting to more expensive epoxy end-sealed capacitors.
I really don't like these types of caps. They can be a pain to work with, especially when soldering them on. I'm always afraid to allow them to get hot while soldering because I've heard others say that they will POP. I should test that. LOL
Yesterday, I had to make a quick regulator circuit that was tiny, so I used these caps.
Before using any cap, I always test them to confirm their value and expected ESR.
These are brand new caps and still, some did NOT test well.
I did find good ones, however, and all is working well.
@@BlondieSL Yeah, I like theough hole capacitors better, but I think they use these because you can put them in a pick and place machine.
The sleeve on the through hole capacitors does make identifying the brand and type much easier.
it is always the crapacitor 🙂
With THAT MUCH magic smoke, it's almost always a cap.
Other components, while they can/do smoke, don't usually produce enough smoke that a magician could make their assistant disappear! LOL
Modern cap quality has been a crapshoot for at least a couple of decade now, but they've always been one of the weaker points in a circuit. Funny that since the early days touting "Solid State!" devices have been carrying around little cans filled with shorts waiting to happen and goo waiting to dry out or get out explosively and stink up the place.
it's just a fancy variable regulator
Would you say the same about a bench top power supply…?
Its A Good Review When You Need To Fix A Brand New Product, LMFAO !!! THIS Went Wrong REAL FAST ! :D
Well U worked for that Freebie😁 see what it costs?.
Indeed Peter
Excuse me, but testing PSU without oscilloscope is a bla-bla about nothing. Without transient current testing - doubling it.
For what do you want to use an oscilloscope except meassuring the ripple?
Using a load to test a power supply is excactly what they were invented for.
you get a good idea of how good the power supply is (or not) when the current rises and the voltage drops. What do you want meassure? The time for coming back the voltage? Everyone can see that shoudl be better and so this is nothing more than wasting world ressources ... and you shouldn't buy it.
As I mentioned in another comment I had intended to connect a scope to check for noise as these are marketed as being very low noise devices, but the need to repair it threw me off, I may do a follow up video if there is enough to talk about.
@@franke5478 , usually the question is half of an answer. On the oscilloscope, I want to see that thing for what oscilloscope was invented: to see forms of voltages and currents. Traces of possible oscillations and so on.
> Using a load to test a power supply is excactly what they were invented for.
Definitely not. Actual power consumers eat power in a way that is far from the electronic load.
> you get a good idea of how good the power supply is (or not) when the current rises and the voltage drops.
It is only the inner resistance. Besides the fact, that has a static and dynamic component.
> What do you want meassure? The time for coming back the voltage?
Not only me. All PSU investigators want it. And forms, specter, and voltage of spikes.
@@TheDefpom , I'll be waiting for the second part. Thank you!
@@Scorry You're oversimplifying the issues. Real loads can be different from electronic loads, but that is unlikely to be anything more than a transient effect due to reactive impedances. In such a case, I agree that you need a scope to see how the output _voltage_ varies. But it's not a question of power.
When the voltage starts to deviate significantly from the set value at a particular current, it is _not_ "only the internal resistance". Either the effect is as a result of current limiting circuitry, or the design has reached an inherent limit for the components used. We definitely want to know under what conditions that occurs, as it tells us a lot about how the power supply is going to perform in the real world.
So we actually want to know both things: the voltages and currents when the PSU "runs out of steam", and what spikes, ripple, etc, appears on the output under different settings and loads. Might be worth a short follow-up video with the answers to those sort of questions.
This is not a ‘power supply’. It’s a selectable voltage/current regulator.
If it supplies power, then it is a power supply in my book
pls check noise,,spikes etc
I intended to check that in the review but the repair kind of threw me off track, maybe I will do a follow up video of I think I have enough to talk about.
@@TheDefpom Please do, I would be interested in seeing turn on/off voltage behaviour and going in and out of constant current. Volatge overshoots can be a big problem.
Mine p906 after some shelf life now starts with low voltage < 3v error message, regardless of power source. What a waste of money....
35V capacitors in a 30V power supply...not good enough
Cute, but I can buy 3 regular Chinese power supplies for the price of one of these. Niche item for sure.
Depends on use cases. I have an affordable, modern programmable power supply on my bench, but that plugs into the mains and would be inconvenient to carry for field service work (e.g. crawled up inside an industrial machine).
This Miniware device might be handy for me to dial in supply power from batteries for various QRP transceivers during portable operations. That may depend on how much RF noise it generates... which would be a nice thing to test.
@@Randrew There are definitely some mobile uses for it.
I'm not a person who enjoys criticizing anyone, but I have to make it clear that this is just an expensive DC regulator. You need to know what you're buying
Surely it is a bit more than just that?
You are truly wrong, watch his followup video. I own 4 of these units and also many standard boost/buck converters and there is simply no comparison whatsoever. This is an extremely well specd and ultra clean power supply, esp considering the form factor
@@TylrVncnt This unit is super over expensive ...... the low quality of components inside this trash says it clearly.
IMO, it would not have been very interesting, if it hand not blown and had not been opened and repaired. lol.
did you not record when it died?
No I had paused recording whilst I was changing the setting, I hit record as soon as I pulled the power plug.
@@TheDefpom thats unfortunate, i would have loved to see the exact moment^^
Maybe I'm stupid, but what is the point of the unit. I assumed it had lipo battery inside, but no, so what is the point????????
Most laboratory PSU’s are supposed to have adjustable output voltage, adjustable current limiter, and a way to display their settings. At least some of them your average wall adapter lacks and this unit is supposed to correct that, whilst also being portable.
The point is that you can supply an unregulated voltage anywhere between 4.2V and 30V and get a stable voltage out which you can set to any value between 0V and 30V. You can also set a current limit anywhere between 0A and 10A. Think of it as a variable voltage/current buck-boost regulator, rather than a psu in its own right.
Small,portable and stackable where 4 of them can be controlled using the display unit
It's a variable dc to dc power converter where you can output your desired voltage and current. All you need it a fixed input source.
It has the same functionality as a bench power supply but without the ac to dc converter
All in all it's just a dc to dc converter
@@redmist4963 Well, yeah, that is my point, it's an overpriced fancy DC-DC converter with severe power limitations.
Il Bell'Antonio
I'm a be honest, this is more of a gimmicky thing for those hard core device junkies out there, A fancy way too involved phone charger with poor design and cheap parts... I'll pass.
Miniware products are nice but use of cheap OLED is a show stopper.
I’m not sure there is any other display type that comes in that size with the ability to display as much detail, or be as visible, I’m fine with it.
Odd observation. The tiny OLED displays are almost a Miniware trademark, along with putting those displays on compact things that otherwise mightn't fit but 3 or 4 discrete LEDs.
@@TheDefpom The problem is the life time of those OLED screen. Couple of years max is not a acceptable for a tool. Miniware have great ideas and product. But if they do not upgrade to better screens there will be a ceiling for them. Who want disposable tools ?
@@Randrew These are cheap OLED you find on numerous aliex novelties or modules... Miniware uses a ratio that is of their taste but I doubt they hold any patent on this... Still great ideas but bad oled screens quality , a bit of a pitty for such great potential. But they seem to double down.
@@testman9541 I think lifetime will depend greatly on usage, I have used oled screens on devices which I designed that are used for 10 hours straight a couple of days a week, they have lasted over 3 years so far with no apparent loss of brightness.
I have no use an overpriced power supply that requires a power supply built with inferior components.
Are you actually going to use it or relegate it to the junk bin?
I think it has its uses, mainly if required for portable use maybe running from a DC vehicle battery or something like that where an AC power supply isn’t possible.
I agree. While it is a cute design, I too find it way over priced for what it is.
I went to their website and they don't even have the guts to post their prices!!!!!!!!!!!!
When you click on a button to "get the details" (which I assume means pricing) they
TRY TO GET ALL YOUR PERSONAL INFO!!!!!!!!!!!!
*For me, ANY site that does that, is SKETCHY!*
NO SITE *NEEDS* my info to give me a freak'n price on THEIR PRODUCTS that they are trying to sell.
That's beyond SKETCHY!
We ALL KNOW how personal information is SOLD to the highest bidder and in countries that
ARE KNOWN TO ABUSE people's information!!!!
So NO! It's a HARD NO!
I bet it's expensive lol
150 quid are they taking the piss can get a dual lipo charger for 80 quid
Double the price cus of the size 😂
I hate the fact that another power supply is needed to power this power supply, I don't have a high voltage USB c brick
It also has a round dc in jack which can be used instead (and is probably the better option)
but you probably already have a laptop power brick
@@SD-xu3mz That doesn't change the fact that the manufacturer (Miniware) "offloads" that not so small cost to the customer.
In case of amateurs or inexperienced folk this comes close to dubious business practices. I've already written too much about this toy. For the $260 price tag (October 2022) you easily can have TWO linear regulated PSUs which are more helpful, stable, cleaner, maintenance free and make more sense in a hobbyist or semi-professional lab environment setup. BTW. please be honest. "but you probably already have one" is just wishful thinking, that (as I said) offloads the responsibility to others. And we have no clue about their circumstances (or the right) to "redefine" how they have to use their stuff. With that, I mean: Use your brain! Which will possibly the worst situation in terms of this superfluous (YOUR convenient assumption!) "laptop power brick"? You get it!;)
These Reviews Are So Unnaccurate Because You Are UNBOXING THEM, Not Reviewing Them, There is a HUGE Difrence, You Need To use It For Atleast A Week If You Want To Let people Know Whats UpW ith It
As I have said many times, I often do reviews of the perspective of the first time user, so it is accurate to how people will experience the product. I disagree with your opinion, unboxing videos don’t actually TEST the devices like I do, let alone investigate why something failed and even repair them.
You need to stop capitalising the first letter of every word.
Can you review the shift and caps lock keys? You seem to be getting a lot of use out of them.
@@TheDefpom Incidentally the [2] build quality, maintainability, efficiency, power factor, residual ripple, temperature stability and long-term stability over the entire output range of a power supply are also essential data. Without that, a review is simply not complete, we can also read a fortune cookie[1]. Because without this data, a purchase decision is just a gamble. I'm not asking you to do that, by the way, or especially in that video. It was a nice watch, thank you!:) It's just a suggestion, a service that you maybe want to offer to the viewer. Okay, there are people who will buy something just because it looks "pretty". But yes ...
[1] Imagine the same with automobile reviews: Without fuel consumption, performance data and price, etc. That leaves you with the uneasy feeling that you just wasted a lot of time watching it, doesn't it? We all experienced that before, right?:))
[2] This is not a complete list and in no way a critique about the steps you've done: You checked and documented the voltage stability under load and the accuracy of the actual and target values.