Once again your videos save me money! Thank you!! You always make it so straight forward for us layman/non-tradesmen and you recommend the best quality products. Thank you!
A trick I saw on another channel (would give credit but forgot which one) for drilling perfectly horizontally is to put a ring on your drill bit. When drilling down the ring will move to the piece you’re drilling, when drilling up the ring will move towards your drill.
If worried about drilling into the edge of the carcass you can still use the holder for the piston when using overlay doors, the magnetic plate will just sit further down.
Thought about that, still you need to leave a gap to push the door in so it opens, and you still have a slight uneven look, thats why he suggested it works with a countertop to hide it
Personally I prefer the non magnetic version with soft close hinges, saves on putting any metal hardware on the door. I also use a drill guide for drilling into the carcass. I've had a few mishaps with that in the past.
Made me smile when you actually know you have a blunt 10mm bit and rather than replacing it youve put a work around in place ! 😁 .. sad that the podcast has ended but good luck with your next venture!
Thanks! Even funnier, I started out using the 10mm bit in my fancy bit set - only to discover after a minute of two of cursing that the set tops out at 9mm... 😂🤷♂️👍
As a retired cabinet maker I wish Utube and your chanel was available back when I started ( 40+ years ago. Would have avoided the learning curve. I don't know if they are still around but lightweight tables often had a reinforcing "screw plate" fixed to the underside of top/shelf this was a 1.5" x 1/2 inch steel plate with a screw formed on the end, this screws into the leg and a couple of screw holes in the plate for fixing. I still have some examples they were also available in plastic.
Thanks for this video. To be exhaustive, it might be worth mentioning these latches should be used with unsprung hinges (e,g, BLUM 70T. 3550.TL or 70T.3750.TL)
Just noticed there's a 'buffer' version of these pistons, non magnetic, which can work with soft close hinges. Not sure how it behaves to open though. Push to unlatch but then have to pull the door open past the spring action. Without handles or knobs....hmmm.
Great vid! Just a thought on the overlay doors, you might be able to make the gap smaller by using the washers instead of the sticky plates. But then just make the washers inset by drilling a small hole into the door with a small forstner bit. Probably you could also do same for the catch in the carcass, as it also has a small plastic lip that sticks out a little bit.
Another good how to video, I have used the Blum self closing hinges on an inset door and those push to open would have been a good solution for me as I ended up making a wooden stop.Thanks for sharing as always a great little video as you share your tips and solutions.
Brilliant vid as always Peter I can Remember about 19yrs ago when the company I worked for used to fit these they charged £250 per kitchen except it was the bare piston no shroud you had to drill a hole into the side/base of the kitchen unit ( 9mm if I remember right ) the fitters hated them as often or not they came out the bottom of the unit or up into it …. keep the vids coming ANDY
Hi peter. I would like to thank you for this video. I had to install a system exactly like this and without amy worries i did it cause i had seen your video few weeks before. Thanks a lot i follow all your videos. Keep safe
Hi mate, How about a short series of basic woodwork project videos? A bit like Steve Ramsey. A small cupboard from start to finish with basic tools in say 5 parts? I’m a big fan, just thought I’d throw my idea out there 👍
I've got an IKEA unit with two drawers and one push latch on each. They're really poor. Almost every third or fourth close you have to adjust it by a mm either way in order for it to work. I generally find Ikea's stuff to be pretty good, but I wouldn't recommend these at all. The Blum ones look far more substantial, and I expect that the IKEA ones are struggling with the weight of a drawer full of kids toys. I expect they'd work fine on doors however.
@@ricos1497 fitted a few Ikea kitchens over the years .. wont touch them now .. they make every thing such a pain to fit all the units there own sizes ie every one else makes units 720 high not Ikea .. and no void in back of units so all utility's run inside of units could go on and on but hey hoy ...
Hi peter can you tell me how much the clearance of door from cabinet holes both horizontal and vertical for inset door..first time to install inset door.thanks.
Excellent video as always, thanks. That gap on that overlay door is really quite large. I suspect what catches the eye though is that the gap narrows towards the hinge. Putting an overlay on top isn't a great solution because you've visually created an inset door. Definitely going to have to try out those catches though, I've used the other types and had the same experience as you've had with reliability.
You can get the gap down to a couple of mm, maybe 2.5, around there. And obviously if you were fitting it for real you’d tweak the hinges so the gao was consistent. 👍
#380 how to fit touch latches - very well set out and definitely something I will try. Oddly, there is a segment of a different video tacked to the end of this - the good/strong enough glued & screwed side table video. Perhaps a gremlin in my TH-cam app.
Thanks Lukas. re the additional video, I do explain it here - th-cam.com/video/6yCdFClXUOU/w-d-xo.html; it's a short clip of a Patreon-exclusive video, intended to give non-members a taste of what's on offer. 👍
Peter, I’m trying to build inset cabinet doors with handles. All the European style (concealed) inset hinges I’ve tried (4 manufacturers) have a strong spring or soft close mechanism which won’t work with the touch to open mechanism’s. I know you said your favorite Baum (I think they were) even the inset type have, a switch to turn the soft close off. Hopefully you do use European style for inset doors and some sort of touch magnet to spring open the door.
You need to use unsprung hinges. The Blum hinges have a switch to turn off the soft close, but they’re still a spring hinge. Try searching for these product numbers. 👍 Blum unsprung inset hinge 70T 3750.TL and overlay hinge 70T 3550.TL
Hi Peter, Blum selling a relatively cheap (by their standards) 10mm drilling alignment jig for drilling those deep holes. Especially relevant for their 75mm version. I got one and found it quite frankly invaluable, especially if you are drilling a lot of holes.
Hi Peter, I realise you put this video up some time ago but handle-less kitchens are the current trend right? I plan to buy the longer Blum tip on ones from a company called Isaac something.. You know the one! If I have built in appliances such as a dishwasher, can I fit the tip on piston to this unit? I also have lift up door wall units using the Blum Aventos system and I think shorter pistons are needed in this application. I am using (already bought) the SOTO grey drawers from B AND Q which are soft close similar to Blum in quality. Do you think I can fit the pistons to the carcase edge for drawers too? I have designed my own kitchen and now making it using the workshops were I work. Thanks Aaron
Hi Peter ...that's why the mini-latches have a small nail hole in them :-) . To keep them in place after final adjustment. I use the stick on plates with the Blum latches ALL the time. Why fiddle with the washer and screw when the almost invisible "plate" works so well? Regards Peter Sanders
Hello Peter. Do you know what is the maximal weight of the cabinet door for this king of push/pull latches. I have a wardrobe door of about 92" x 20" (234 cm x 50cm) of MDF, and am wondering whether the magnet is strong enough for this size (weight). Tank you for your videos. They are clear and straightforward.
great video. I was wondering about using these pistons on under stair cabinets but on drawers; would they be able to pop a large drawer (1200 x 900 x 500) out?
Thanks! Not sure if those pistons have enough oomph for a fully loaded drawer of that size - might be OK if you doubled them up, but I’d want to run a couple of tests first! 👍
just had a problem with some of the off the shelve screwfix versions. trying to get them to work with some soft close door and drawers in a wardrobe. any advice mate would be appreciated. all the best.
Touch late he’s and soft close don’t play nicely together. You need unsprung hinges and runners designed for touch latches eg Blum tip-on to make them work successfully. Sorry it’s not better news. 👍👍
Thanks for the useful video. Like many people I have standard IKEA Blum hinges with springs. Do you have any comments/advice on removing these springs for use with these Blum Tip-On do dads? Many thanks
Im doing the drilled ones in cabinets hanging in a kitchen, will have to drill in vertical side wall, i herad somewhere that they should not be centered but rather closer to the inside edge, but I couldnt find any details anywhere about it, Have you herd about it and if so, how close to the inside ledge it should be? Im using 18 mm ones.
Well, that sorts out deciding on what handles to go for, just don't use handles! if you are using these with the Blum soft close hinges, do you need to disable the soft closer on the hinge as well? or will the soft close play nicely with the latch thing?
Perfect timing with this video I need to fit some of these next weekend! I knew soft close hinges would be no good (of course 😂) - I can put my hands on those straight away. Now the unsprung ones, who knows, possibly buried under the Christmas decorations🙄😡😂. Thanks again for the usual top class and very useful video
Thinking of using these on a job I'm doing this month, the doors are overlayed but 2.3m high. Will they still work being drilled in the top or bottom of the units?
Depends on the thickness; I’d be concerned about the flex in the door on something as tall as that, but U guess if it’s 22 or 25mm thick it should be OK. 🤷♂️👍
Hiya. Yes, it just goes in as a snug friction fit; you can remove it with a thin blade or scraper under the small flange that prevents it from disappearing into the hole. It's a bit of a fiddle, but it can be done. 👍
Thanks Peter, its was kind of the right video ,right time situation for me when this popped up. Would those latches work on full height wardrobe doors. Overlay.
Hi Peter, do those push to open latches work well with Blum soft close hinge? Or the soft close mechanism makes it harder for the latch? Thank you so much
They’ll open, but they won’t ‘ping’ open like they would with an unsprung hinge, and the soft-close isn’t strong enough to close the latch . I always spec unsprung hinges with touch-latches tbh. 👍👍
Hi Peter, Another excellent video thanks. Note the comments about using un-sprung hinges. Am I correct in thinking this Blum device will work ok if you disable the 'soft close' mechanism on a Blum Blumotion hinge, or do I definitely need to spec an unsprung hinge? I've got a kitchen install coming up where the base and tower units have handles, so use conventional hinges but the wall units are to be push latches. Wanted to try and avoid getting different hinges if pos. Thanks again
Thanks Barry. If you disable the soft-close on a blumotion hinge, it's just becomes a sprung hinge, so you'd still have the same issue; the touch-latch would open the door as far as the piston protrudes, but the door wouldn't spring open because the hinge is always trying to stay closed. I recommend using unsprung hinges. Hope that helps! P
Thanks for the great videos! On a vertical opening overlaid cabinet door, would it be possible to use these touch latches with gas struts to hold the door up when it is open?
Hi Peter, I don't understand why you drilled a hole for the overlay door when you could have just used the first type and screwed it inside the top like the first one.have I missed something?
Drilling them into the carcass really comes in handy if it is used in an overhead cabinet. The catch any the holder take up space on the bottom of the cabinet and prevent the customer just sliding things in and out. I use the BLUM jig with HETTICH push to open pistons(no magnets). But I've recently found a self centring jig by HETTICH to have a look at.
Hy Peter , really good content as usual , just a question which is not specific to this video as such but just want your take on it, Your workshop space doesn’t look too gigantic so how do you find making larger commissions? Such as say a 7 feet long window storage seating area? Any little tricks you do which Iv not thought of? Thanks. Scott
Thanks Scott! Yes, the larger stuff was tricky to deal with; I do have another room that was arranged differently back when I was still grafting on the fitted furniture, and that was well used, especially when I was spray painting; I also had access to some storage in the main building when air was doing my largest commission - the ‘big job’ series from a couple of years ago - which was a godsend! 👍
Hi, as usual very good tips. I enjoy watching your videos. I would like know which festool Domino router size bit mostly used to build boxes. Thank you
Wow, wide door! As long as the door’s staying level on the hinges, then a single tip-on should be fine. I’d try it with one, and if it needs a second you can always add one. 👍
Hello Peter, I have a really important question. I have a cabinet with that exact latch and I just want to know how to remove it? The reason I want it removed is because the latch when pushed back isn't sticking inside. Meaning the door won't close.
You’ll need to get a blade or something thin and rigid under the lip of the latch and lever it out. If you try and grab the plunger with pliers it may just pull out, but a blade is beat. 👍👍
The latch needs a couple of mm of rearward travel to unlatch itself so there’s not much you can do about that. And the ‘sticky thing’ is sub-mm thickness, about as thin as it can be. 👍👍
Any tips on a set that actually work. I hate them as often you have to press them several times to latch. 4 x out 10 you have to press to get it to lock in again.
If it’s a commercial door it will be toughened, so not possible to drill it. I’d probably use a strong double-sided tape, there’s a 3M one specifically for glass. 👍👍
Hi Peter,very informative videos as always,just a quick question on primer for mdf,do you need a solvent based primer or will a water Bourne one be ok. Would the water in the primer have a poor effect on the mdf,I am wondering for regular mdf and tikkurila otex akva adhesion primer, thanks for all the videos.
Thanks! I’ve only used water-based paints for almost as long as I can remember, and have never had any problems. Otex Akvar works very nicely without any issues (though as an adhesion primer it is meant for ‘problem’ surfaces) and I’ve used it on MDF and it’s worked great. If possible, I’d recommend switching to MR MDF as it’s a better quality board for not much more money. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop thanks Peter,yep for any edges that will show or be on display i use the mr mdf,I had requested different samples from medite and routered them and mr mdf was alot nicer on edge than regular mdf,thanks again 👍
Peter hi, on another matter I’ve a need to buy a track saw and have found a Makita SP6000J1 which comes with 2 1.5m rails for £369 do you think a cheaper one would be adequate ie, triton or erbauer to save a few quid? It’s mainly for cutting down doors in one pass. Be interested in your view mate. Thanks Craig
Hi Craig. Honestly, aside from the ‘supermarket saws’ I think the Makita is the entry-level of the upper-mid range saws. I’ve just bought one to play with, will keep you posted. I had a Triton briefly, but it was a dead ringer for the old screwfix Titan, with added soft start & variable speed. Haven’t used the Erbauer, but it takes a slightly odd sized blade - which to be fair increases the depth of cut by 10mm it so, but could make getting alternative blades a bit hit ‘n miss. So yes, I’d say Makita’s a good entry-level to the ‘big five’ 👍👍
Peter Millard cheers Peter, looks like I will be spending again. Am a fan of Makita anyway so not to sad. Have a great weekend and are you going to Makers this year as I’d like to meet a few people?
@@craigpeel5995 Hi Craig! No problem! Yes, I'll be at Makers Central this year; I've teamed up with the guys at Essex Makers and the Hardwood Offcuts shop, and we have a big block of 4 stands - M13-M16 - so be sure to come and say hi! 👍
You won't regret it, bought the same kit some time ago, very nice cuts on MDF, MFC & Ply. Only problem is it doesn't tell you before making the cut that you've aligned the track with the wrong marks :-)
@@10MinuteWorkshop Thanks. Also another question: Can 4 Roller catches be used to hold a door without any hinge? so that the door can be pulled out when needed. (Door not opened frequently)
I thought you were joking - you know, on account of my 10mm drill bit being blunt - so I answered in kind. I’ve never sharpened a drill bit, wouldn’t know where to start. 🤷♂️👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop I sharpen my normal bits on a bench grinder, but haven't found anything for brad point bits, which is a bind as that's what i use the most on my wood turning lathe
When fitting Blum touch latches to overlay doors, why don't you counterbore the latch plate (washer) into the back of the door by a few millimeters. This would get rid of the gap you were concerned about. You would obviously need a shorter screw or alternatively, where the door is too thin to allow this, you could always use epoxy.
For the overlay, rather than drilling carcass, Why not just install the latch as per the inset but move it out to the front of the carcass? Saves a hole in the face of the carcass. Cheers
@@10MinuteWorkshop cheers. Yep will be on show more agree, but less damage if you need to remove and fit different type at later date. Do you have any recommendations for a simple push lock which actually locks for a caravan where contents of cupboard can move and potentially push open door👍
![Painting MDF Doors [video 407]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ZIwNJGlVtwc/mqdefault.jpg)
![เปิด อาณาจักร หมื่นล้าน "สาระตั้ม" l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3XE0nPF4YkQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Once again your videos save me money! Thank you!! You always make it so straight forward for us layman/non-tradesmen and you recommend the best quality products. Thank you!
Those latches you use do seem a lot easier to fit than the old school type. As usual concise and very watchable video.
Thanks! 👍
Peter you make it look so easy, especially with tape for measuring HACK.
A trick I saw on another channel (would give credit but forgot which one) for drilling perfectly horizontally is to put a ring on your drill bit. When drilling down the ring will move to the piece you’re drilling, when drilling up the ring will move towards your drill.
If worried about drilling into the edge of the carcass you can still use the holder for the piston when using overlay doors, the magnetic plate will just sit further down.
Thought about that, still you need to leave a gap to push the door in so it opens, and you still have a slight uneven look, thats why he suggested it works with a countertop to hide it
Personally I prefer the non magnetic version with soft close hinges, saves on putting any metal hardware on the door. I also use a drill guide for drilling into the carcass. I've had a few mishaps with that in the past.
Top tip about overlay latch and cover Pete!
Made me smile when you actually know you have a blunt 10mm bit and rather than replacing it youve put a work around in place ! 😁 .. sad that the podcast has ended but good luck with your next venture!
Thanks! Even funnier, I started out using the 10mm bit in my fancy bit set - only to discover after a minute of two of cursing that the set tops out at 9mm... 😂🤷♂️👍
A simple guide but very useful. Thank you Peter
Thanks! 👍
As a retired cabinet maker I wish Utube and your chanel was available back when I started ( 40+ years ago. Would have avoided the learning curve. I don't know if they are still around but lightweight tables often had a reinforcing "screw plate" fixed to the underside of top/shelf this was a 1.5" x 1/2 inch steel plate with a screw formed on the end, this screws into the leg and a couple of screw holes in the plate for fixing. I still have some examples they were also available in plastic.
Thanks! Wow, I remember seeing those when I was much younger, haven’t come across them for a while! 👍👍
I really enjoyed the video and it was really beneficial for me because of unexpected reason for my design project
Thanks for this video. To be exhaustive, it might be worth mentioning these latches should be used with unsprung hinges (e,g, BLUM 70T. 3550.TL or 70T.3750.TL)
Yes indeed; I kind of assumed that was obvious, but judging from some of the comments I was wrong! 🤷♂️
Just noticed there's a 'buffer' version of these pistons, non magnetic, which can work with soft close hinges. Not sure how it behaves to open though. Push to unlatch but then have to pull the door open past the spring action. Without handles or knobs....hmmm.
Great vid! Just a thought on the overlay doors, you might be able to make the gap smaller by using the washers instead of the sticky plates. But then just make the washers inset by drilling a small hole into the door with a small forstner bit. Probably you could also do same for the catch in the carcass, as it also has a small plastic lip that sticks out a little bit.
Thanks. The sticky metal plate is a fraction of a mm thick - it really is the best thing to use. 👍
Another good how to video, I have used the Blum self closing hinges on an inset door and those push to open would have been a good solution for me as I ended up making a wooden stop.Thanks for sharing as always a great little video as you share your tips and solutions.
Cheers Ray! 👍
Brilliant vid as always Peter I can Remember about 19yrs ago when the company I worked for used to fit these they charged £250 per kitchen except it was the bare piston no shroud you had to drill a hole into the side/base of the kitchen unit ( 9mm if I remember right ) the fitters hated them as often or not they came out the bottom of the unit or up into it …. keep the vids coming
ANDY
Cheers Andy! 👍👍
@6:55 sounds like some clients I have encountered, "Oh I didn't realize it would be like that"
Nice one Peter...good to see how those fitted
Thanks Paul, 👍👍
Hi peter. I would like to thank you for this video. I had to install a system exactly like this and without amy worries i did it cause i had seen your video few weeks before. Thanks a lot i follow all your videos. Keep safe
Thanks Adrian, you too! 👍👍
man you're cool. amazing video, exactly what I needed.
Hi mate, How about a short series of basic woodwork project videos? A bit like Steve Ramsey. A small cupboard from start to finish with basic tools in say 5 parts? I’m a big fan, just thought I’d throw my idea out there 👍
Peter this was awesome. Thank you
The first latch you showed where did you get it? I had one for 30yrs and it worked perfectly. I’d love to get another one.
You gained a subscriber today❤️Thank you😍
6:55 That sounds like personal experience Peter lol
Blum makes so many great products.
Hi Peter. IKEA has really similar product without the magnet. Works really well. Cheers.
I've got an IKEA unit with two drawers and one push latch on each. They're really poor. Almost every third or fourth close you have to adjust it by a mm either way in order for it to work. I generally find Ikea's stuff to be pretty good, but I wouldn't recommend these at all. The Blum ones look far more substantial, and I expect that the IKEA ones are struggling with the weight of a drawer full of kids toys. I expect they'd work fine on doors however.
@@ricos1497 fitted a few Ikea kitchens over the years .. wont touch them now .. they make every thing such a pain to fit all the units there own sizes ie every one else makes units 720 high not Ikea .. and no void in back of units so all utility's run inside of units could go on and on but hey hoy ...
Hi peter can you tell me how much the clearance of door from cabinet holes both horizontal and vertical for inset door..first time to install inset door.thanks.
even though you look like a gardener... I.m loving the content bonnie lad!
Who’s gardener? Has Lady Chattersly been talking again?? 🤷♂️👍😂
Excellent video as always, thanks. That gap on that overlay door is really quite large. I suspect what catches the eye though is that the gap narrows towards the hinge. Putting an overlay on top isn't a great solution because you've visually created an inset door. Definitely going to have to try out those catches though, I've used the other types and had the same experience as you've had with reliability.
You can get the gap down to a couple of mm, maybe 2.5, around there. And obviously if you were fitting it for real you’d tweak the hinges so the gao was consistent. 👍
Thank you for that Peter. I had a similar issue with MDF and dowels making a shoe rack.
#380 how to fit touch latches - very well set out and definitely something I will try. Oddly, there is a segment of a different video tacked to the end of this - the good/strong enough glued & screwed side table video. Perhaps a gremlin in my TH-cam app.
Thanks Lukas. re the additional video, I do explain it here - th-cam.com/video/6yCdFClXUOU/w-d-xo.html; it's a short clip of a Patreon-exclusive video, intended to give non-members a taste of what's on offer. 👍
Peter, I’m trying to build inset cabinet doors with handles. All the European style (concealed) inset hinges I’ve tried (4 manufacturers) have a strong spring or soft close mechanism which won’t work with the touch to open mechanism’s. I know you said your favorite Baum (I think they were) even the inset type have, a switch to turn the soft close off. Hopefully you do use European style for inset doors and some sort of touch magnet to spring open the door.
You need to use unsprung hinges. The Blum hinges have a switch to turn off the soft close, but they’re still a spring hinge. Try searching for these product numbers. 👍 Blum unsprung inset hinge 70T 3750.TL and overlay hinge 70T 3550.TL
‘Blunt as a dog’s hind leg.’ 😂 im going to use that one.
Blum makes great products. Love the Tandem drawer slide.
Hi Peter, Blum selling a relatively cheap (by their standards) 10mm drilling alignment jig for drilling those deep holes. Especially relevant for their 75mm version. I got one and found it quite frankly invaluable, especially if you are drilling a lot of holes.
Good to know, thanks Alex. 👍
No worries Paul.
Sorry Alex, struggling with my last ever wardrobe job so not paying attention 100% 🤷♂️👍
Never knew they did such a thing. I'll need to ask my boss to get one. Can be a bit worrying drilling that 10mm hole.
Hi Peter, I realise you put this video up some time ago but handle-less kitchens are the current trend right? I plan to buy the longer Blum tip on ones from a company called Isaac something.. You know the one! If I have built in appliances such as a dishwasher, can I fit the tip on piston to this unit? I also have lift up door wall units using the Blum Aventos system and I think shorter pistons are needed in this application. I am using (already bought) the SOTO grey drawers from B AND Q which are soft close similar to Blum in quality. Do you think I can fit the pistons to the carcase edge for drawers too? I have designed my own kitchen and now making it using the workshops were I work. Thanks Aaron
Awesome video mate. Thank you.
As always Peter, informative
Hi Peter
...that's why the mini-latches have a small nail hole in them :-) . To keep them in place after final adjustment.
I use the stick on plates with the Blum latches ALL the time. Why fiddle with the washer and screw when the almost invisible "plate" works so well?
Regards
Peter Sanders
And over time the nail still lets go. 🤷♂️👍
Thanks Peter and agree totally with Peter(below,)...cheers...rr Normandy
Thank you Peter very useful on my current howdens kitchen instrall
Cheers David! 👍👍
Would this work if the doors have piano hinges?
Hello Peter. Do you know what is the maximal weight of the cabinet door for this king of push/pull latches. I have a wardrobe door of about 92" x 20" (234 cm x 50cm) of MDF, and am wondering whether the magnet is strong enough for this size (weight). Tank you for your videos. They are clear and straightforward.
Hi Hilal. I dont I'm sorry, though I imagine Blum would have the specs published somewhere. 👍
great video. I was wondering about using these pistons on under stair cabinets but on drawers; would they be able to pop a large drawer (1200 x 900 x 500) out?
Thanks! Not sure if those pistons have enough oomph for a fully loaded drawer of that size - might be OK if you doubled them up, but I’d want to run a couple of tests first! 👍
Blum do a guide for drilling the carcass, think mine was about £10
I suppose you could use the first shown on the second type of door, save having to drill into the top. Just a thought.
You could, but drilled into the carcass us neater. 👍👍
just had a problem with some of the off the shelve screwfix versions. trying to get them to work with some soft close door and drawers in a wardrobe. any advice mate would be appreciated. all the best.
Touch late he’s and soft close don’t play nicely together. You need unsprung hinges and runners designed for touch latches eg Blum tip-on to make them work successfully. Sorry it’s not better news. 👍👍
Thanks, that was helpful
Thanks for the useful video. Like many people I have standard IKEA Blum hinges with springs. Do you have any comments/advice on removing these springs for use with these Blum Tip-On do dads?
Many thanks
Thanks! It’s not something I’ve ever tried I’m afraid - wouldn’t know where to start! 🤷♂️👍
Good day, what kind of concealed hinges did you used?
Blum, unsprung.👍
Nice video Peter.
Cheers George! 👍👍
Thank you so much it's so helpful ❤
Im doing the drilled ones in cabinets hanging in a kitchen, will have to drill in vertical side wall, i herad somewhere that they should not be centered but rather closer to the inside edge, but I couldnt find any details anywhere about it, Have you herd about it and if so, how close to the inside ledge it should be? Im using 18 mm ones.
Bah, I wanted to say vertical of course......
What is this white plasitc pice for where I put it please can you help me by picture
On the overlay door is there a reason why you wouldn’t just mount it to the underside of the top panel?
Peter, do you still use and prefer these type latches for inset cabinet doors? Thank you for an informative video for us DIYers!
For handle-less doors, yes. 👍
Well, that sorts out deciding on what handles to go for, just don't use handles! if you are using these with the Blum soft close hinges, do you need to disable the soft closer on the hinge as well? or will the soft close play nicely with the latch thing?
No, you must use unsprung hinges wi try a touch latch, otherwise they cancel each other out. 👍👍
Perfect timing with this video I need to fit some of these next weekend! I knew soft close hinges would be no good (of course 😂) - I can put my hands on those straight away. Now the unsprung ones, who knows, possibly buried under the Christmas decorations🙄😡😂. Thanks again for the usual top class and very useful video
Thinking of using these on a job I'm doing this month, the doors are overlayed but 2.3m high. Will they still work being drilled in the top or bottom of the units?
Depends on the thickness; I’d be concerned about the flex in the door on something as tall as that, but U guess if it’s 22 or 25mm thick it should be OK. 🤷♂️👍
Nice! Exactly what i needed! Thanks Big P!
👍👍🤔😂
Hello Peter, is there a way to pull out the mechanism from a drill hole if it got broken?
Hiya. Yes, it just goes in as a snug friction fit; you can remove it with a thin blade or scraper under the small flange that prevents it from disappearing into the hole. It's a bit of a fiddle, but it can be done. 👍
Thank you so much.
What material is the carcass made from? Looks like a nice veneer, but couldn’t tell from camera shots.
It’s Sapele veneer. Still have a ton of Offcuts from last years big wardrobe job! 👍👍
Thanks Peter, its was kind of the right video ,right time situation for me when this popped up. Would those latches work on full height wardrobe doors. Overlay.
Blum do a long throw version that works well for wardrobe doors. 👍👍
Hi Peter, do those push to open latches work well with Blum soft close hinge? Or the soft close mechanism makes it harder for the latch? Thank you so much
They’ll open, but they won’t ‘ping’ open like they would with an unsprung hinge, and the soft-close isn’t strong enough to close the latch . I always spec unsprung hinges with touch-latches tbh. 👍👍
Hi Peter, Another excellent video thanks. Note the comments about using un-sprung hinges. Am I correct in thinking this Blum device will work ok if you disable the 'soft close' mechanism on a Blum Blumotion hinge, or do I definitely need to spec an unsprung hinge? I've got a kitchen install coming up where the base and tower units have handles, so use conventional hinges but the wall units are to be push latches. Wanted to try and avoid getting different hinges if pos. Thanks again
Thanks Barry. If you disable the soft-close on a blumotion hinge, it's just becomes a sprung hinge, so you'd still have the same issue; the touch-latch would open the door as far as the piston protrudes, but the door wouldn't spring open because the hinge is always trying to stay closed. I recommend using unsprung hinges. Hope that helps! P
@@10MinuteWorkshop thanks Peter, that all makes sense
Thanks for the great videos! On a vertical opening overlaid cabinet door, would it be possible to use these touch latches with gas struts to hold the door up when it is open?
Thanks! You probably could, but there are plenty of fittings made for that application. If you google ‘flap stay’ there’ll be loads to choose from. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Thanks I will take a look.
Very interesting and informative. Thank you.
Hi Peter, I don't understand why you drilled a hole for the overlay door when you could have just used the first type and screwed it inside the top like the first one.have I missed something?
Jim Rowland I was thinking exactly the same thing.
It’s just neater to drill it into the carcass, but feel free to use the holder 🤷♂️👍
Drilling them into the carcass really comes in handy if it is used in an overhead cabinet. The catch any the holder take up space on the bottom of the cabinet and prevent the customer just sliding things in and out.
I use the BLUM jig with HETTICH push to open pistons(no magnets). But I've recently found a self centring jig by HETTICH to have a look at.
Hy Peter , really good content as usual , just a question which is not specific to this video as such but just want your take on it,
Your workshop space doesn’t look too gigantic so how do you find making larger commissions? Such as say a 7 feet long window storage seating area? Any little tricks you do which Iv not thought of?
Thanks.
Scott
Thanks Scott! Yes, the larger stuff was tricky to deal with; I do have another room that was arranged differently back when I was still grafting on the fitted furniture, and that was well used, especially when I was spray painting; I also had access to some storage in the main building when air was doing my largest commission - the ‘big job’ series from a couple of years ago - which was a godsend! 👍
great video thanks
Thanks for sharing Mr M
Hi, as usual very good tips. I enjoy watching your videos. I would like know which festool Domino router size bit mostly used to build boxes. Thank you
I use the 5mm bit and 5x30mm dominos 99% of the time. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Thank you
If I have an Overlay door that is 20" wide and 8' tall should I put a tip-on on the top and bottom?
Wow, wide door! As long as the door’s staying level on the hinges, then a single tip-on should be fine. I’d try it with one, and if it needs a second you can always add one. 👍
On a frameless cabinet would touch latch work conveniently with lift doors?
Don’t see how I’m afraid, no. 🤷♂️👍
Fit and Forget is always best, even if it costs a bit more.
Always! 👍
Hello Peter, I have a really important question. I have a cabinet with that exact latch and I just want to know how to remove it? The reason I want it removed is because the latch when pushed back isn't sticking inside. Meaning the door won't close.
You’ll need to get a blade or something thin and rigid under the lip of the latch and lever it out. If you try and grab the plunger with pliers it may just pull out, but a blade is beat. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop thank you. I'll have to replace it
Can’t you inset the magnetic sticky thing slightly? To get rid of the gap where it needs to spring backwards
The latch needs a couple of mm of rearward travel to unlatch itself so there’s not much you can do about that. And the ‘sticky thing’ is sub-mm thickness, about as thin as it can be. 👍👍
Hi Peter, would these latches work in drawers too with side mounted drawer runners?
Not sure they have the oomph to be honest. Better to go for eg the Blum tip-on push-to-open system. 👍👍
Ok thanks for such a quick reply peter. Will have a look at them for sure. Cheers
You are great thanks!
You're welcome! 👍
Any tips on a set that actually work. I hate them as often you have to press them several times to latch. 4 x out 10 you have to press to get it to lock in again.
The Blum ones I use in this video work really well. 👍👍
Hi! Please tell me how to put a washer in case of a glass door? You cannot drill it will break obviously.
If it’s a commercial door it will be toughened, so not possible to drill it. I’d probably use a strong double-sided tape, there’s a 3M one specifically for glass. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Thx
Hi Peter,very informative videos as always,just a quick question on primer for mdf,do you need a solvent based primer or will a water Bourne one be ok. Would the water in the primer have a poor effect on the mdf,I am wondering for regular mdf and tikkurila otex akva adhesion primer, thanks for all the videos.
Thanks! I’ve only used water-based paints for almost as long as I can remember, and have never had any problems. Otex Akvar works very nicely without any issues (though as an adhesion primer it is meant for ‘problem’ surfaces) and I’ve used it on MDF and it’s worked great. If possible, I’d recommend switching to MR MDF as it’s a better quality board for not much more money. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop thanks Peter,yep for any edges that will show or be on display i use the mr mdf,I had requested different samples from medite and routered them and mr mdf was alot nicer on edge than regular mdf,thanks again 👍
Howto remove inner push pull from hole in the finiture?
how would you install the mini latch?
On the overlay door could you not use the carrier version and set the washer thingy further down the door?
You could, but drilling the piston into the carcass is much neater. 👍
Peter Millard unless the client who are always right of course changes their mind 🤦🏻♂️
Peter hi, on another matter I’ve a need to buy a track saw and have found a Makita SP6000J1 which comes with 2 1.5m rails for £369 do you think a cheaper one would be adequate ie, triton or erbauer to save a few quid? It’s mainly for cutting down doors in one pass. Be interested in your view mate. Thanks Craig
Hi Craig. Honestly, aside from the ‘supermarket saws’ I think the Makita is the entry-level of the upper-mid range saws. I’ve just bought one to play with, will keep you posted. I had a Triton briefly, but it was a dead ringer for the old screwfix Titan, with added soft start & variable speed. Haven’t used the Erbauer, but it takes a slightly odd sized blade - which to be fair increases the depth of cut by 10mm it so, but could make getting alternative blades a bit hit ‘n miss. So yes, I’d say Makita’s a good entry-level to the ‘big five’ 👍👍
Peter Millard cheers Peter, looks like I will be spending again. Am a fan of Makita anyway so not to sad. Have a great weekend and are you going to Makers this year as I’d like to meet a few people?
@@craigpeel5995 Hi Craig! No problem! Yes, I'll be at Makers Central this year; I've teamed up with the guys at Essex Makers and the Hardwood Offcuts shop, and we have a big block of 4 stands - M13-M16 - so be sure to come and say hi! 👍
You won't regret it, bought the same kit some time ago, very nice cuts on MDF, MFC & Ply. Only problem is it doesn't tell you before making the cut that you've aligned the track with the wrong marks :-)
What is better type of concealed hinge to use with these latches? Soft close or Non soft close?
Unsprung, always. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Thanks. Also another question: Can 4 Roller catches be used to hold a door without any hinge? so that the door can be pulled out when needed. (Door not opened frequently)
Sure - one of the easiest ways to attach a removable panel.👍👍
Could you use the magnetic catch for a loft hatch?
I’ve seen it done, but they’re not generally strong enough - I wouldn’t fit them there, personally. 👍
Please what store do you buy them at.
Usually buy from Amazon - links in the description.
Love these great tips.
Thanks! 👍👍
Lovely done, But can you recommend a drill bit sharpener ?
No, can you?? 😂👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Funny guy
I thought you were joking - you know, on account of my 10mm drill bit being blunt - so I answered in kind. I’ve never sharpened a drill bit, wouldn’t know where to start. 🤷♂️👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop I sharpen my normal bits on a bench grinder, but haven't found anything for brad point bits, which is a bind as that's what i use the most on my wood turning lathe
Is the click-clack fixing from Ikea?
No, it's from Hafele -links in the video description - but Ikea do use a lot of Blum and Hafele fixings. 👍
nice video
Thanks! 👍
When fitting Blum touch latches to overlay doors, why don't you counterbore the latch plate (washer) into the back of the door by a few millimeters. This would get rid of the gap you were concerned about. You would obviously need a shorter screw or alternatively, where the door is too thin to allow this, you could always use epoxy.
Or you could just use the sub-mm thick self-adhesive plate they supply 🤷♂️👍
The gap is a necessary evil. The door needs to be able to move inward in order for the latch to release
Blum actually sell a drilling jig for these latches if your not confident freehand or like me just pure lazy and can’t be bothered to mark things out
For the overlay, rather than drilling carcass, Why not just install the latch as per the inset but move it out to the front of the carcass? Saves a hole in the face of the carcass. Cheers
Always an option, but drilling into the carcass is much neater, and leaves the internals clear. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop cheers. Yep will be on show more agree, but less damage if you need to remove and fit different type at later date. Do you have any recommendations for a simple push lock which actually locks for a caravan where contents of cupboard can move and potentially push open door👍
I don't understand why the overlay cannot be fitted just like the inlay one. The washer just be much lower from the edge.
Could anyone please lead me in the right direction either by video or instructions on how to use a Magnetic Touch Latch on an all glass door?
No more Measuring Up podcast. 😔
All good things gotta come to an end. 🤷♂️👍
8:48 Noooo!