Awesome as always Ken, don’t forget, keep an eye out for a used toaster oven, and a small fridge with a freezer. Side bonus to the roster oven, is light tempering too.
I've only done one of these before and it was exactly what you are doing. I built a clutch for my lathe and I had to make it fit on the tapered input shaft on the headstock. Fortunately for me the original pulley was not damaged and I chucked it up and picked up the taper the same way I did on this video (albeit on the bore rather that the OD). The only other time I successfully measured a taper was on a short shaft that I could stand up squarely on my surface plate. I then put 1-2-3 block on each side and laid my calipers flat on top of the blocks and measured the diameter. (the 1-2-3 blocks ensured the caliper was square to the axis of the taper). I then added another set of 1-2-3 blocks onto the first set and measured the diameter again. Knowing the difference in diameter between the two measurements and knowing that the measurements were taken exactly 1" apart I then calculated the taper angle. Ken
Nice repair , that will last no worries . That compressor may just be like a Tu Flow 500 or 700 . On a pump they just blow air through a venturi to create a vacuum for the pump , so no big load on them . Was the pulley made from some wierd cast stuff or steel ? 👍
Thanks Max. I was wondering how they could draw a vacuum without risk of ingesting water. The venturi solves that problem. Funny you ask about the material. At the beginning I thought it was steel. While I was machining it the surface looked like cast iron but the swarf acted like it was steel. In the end I suspect it was some weird cast iron that seems to behave like steel. The material caused me to change my repair several times. When I thought it was steel I was going to use a heavy press fit (.002"/inch) and no set screws. After boring out the pulley and thinking it may be cast I decided to ease up on the interference and use set screws if necessary. In the end the lighter press fit (slightly more then .001"/inch diameter) took all my hydraulic press could give and convinced me set screws were unnecessary. Ken
@@hmw-ms3tx I was going to say , go lighter on the interference but you already had that part sorted ! Earlier pumps had a vacuum pump & a tank with a float to control the vacuum . A bit like a dunny cistern , shit house troublesome system . 👍
Awesome as always Ken, don’t forget, keep an eye out for a used toaster oven, and a small fridge with a freezer.
Side bonus to the roster oven, is light tempering too.
Thanks for video. I always enjoy a real world repair.
Talk about Deja-vu. Nice you had the crank so you could dial in the taper. It was a guessing game for me since I don't have any taper mics.
I've only done one of these before and it was exactly what you are doing. I built a clutch for my lathe and I had to make it fit on the tapered input shaft on the headstock. Fortunately for me the original pulley was not damaged and I chucked it up and picked up the taper the same way I did on this video (albeit on the bore rather that the OD). The only other time I successfully measured a taper was on a short shaft that I could stand up squarely on my surface plate. I then put 1-2-3 block on each side and laid my calipers flat on top of the blocks and measured the diameter. (the 1-2-3 blocks ensured the caliper was square to the axis of the taper). I then added another set of 1-2-3 blocks onto the first set and measured the diameter again. Knowing the difference in diameter between the two measurements and knowing that the measurements were taken exactly 1" apart I then calculated the taper angle. Ken
I was thinking that there was not a video from you theese days. Thank you!
Hello Christos. Yes it's been awhile. I really need to get a stand for my phone. Ken
Nice repair , that will last no worries . That compressor may just be like a Tu Flow 500 or 700 . On a pump they just blow air through a venturi to create a vacuum for the pump , so no big load on them . Was the pulley made from some wierd cast stuff or steel ? 👍
Thanks Max. I was wondering how they could draw a vacuum without risk of ingesting water. The venturi solves that problem. Funny you ask about the material. At the beginning I thought it was steel. While I was machining it the surface looked like cast iron but the swarf acted like it was steel. In the end I suspect it was some weird cast iron that seems to behave like steel. The material caused me to change my repair several times. When I thought it was steel I was going to use a heavy press fit (.002"/inch) and no set screws. After boring out the pulley and thinking it may be cast I decided to ease up on the interference and use set screws if necessary. In the end the lighter press fit (slightly more then .001"/inch diameter) took all my hydraulic press could give and convinced me set screws were unnecessary. Ken
@@hmw-ms3tx I was going to say , go lighter on the interference but you already had that part sorted ! Earlier pumps had a vacuum pump & a tank with a float to control the vacuum . A bit like a dunny cistern , shit house troublesome system . 👍
I think that bushing isn't going anywhere :)