There’s obviously enough friction with the clutch still in that it grabs just a bit. Plates should be removed and soaked in oil overnight. Or, start bike up, build revs up a bit, put into gear and hold clutch in for a minute. Then try it after. Or mis-adjusted clutch, not enough pull.
I just bought a 92 cr250r and im taking the motor apart and my inner hub has some cracks on the inside of it around the studs I was wondering if anyone knew if this would affect the operation of the clutch and if I should spend the money replacing it
Well it won’t affect anything until one breaks. All depends on where its cracked. I’m guessing you’re referring to the studs that the clutch spring bolts thread into? They are the anchor that allow the springs to do their job. If say one was to snap on the outer end and only some material came off, but there was still enough threads for the bolt to grab, you’re probably ok for a bit. That’ll have to be a judgement call. But if it looks like it may snap in a way where the bolt isn’t securing anything anymore then yeah it’d greatly effect the operation of the clutch.
Just want to see if anyone knows the answer to my problem, I have a 91 CR250 2 stroke. I'm having problems with my clutch engagement, when I put my pressure plate on I have movement between my clutch plates and the clutch is really really hard to pull in. Manual says there's no bearing for this year. The actuator is in good shape just replaced it. I have 7 clutch plates that are also in good shape. I'm not sure why I can't get the pressure plate tight against the disk. Any suggestions or tips ?
The parts diagram I see has a bearing, item #22 on this link. www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/1991-honda-cr250r/o/m11896#sch413690 The clutch you have should be pretty similar if not the same as my 98’ here. As far as the movement goes, besides spring tensions and the physical width of each individual plate I can’t picture what would cause that. With the cover off how does it all look when you pull the clutch in? Does the plate come out evenly, albeit stiff?
@@turdpike yah without the plate everything pushes out nicely. I'm thinking it might be the rod isn't sitting properly on the actuator ? That's the only thing I can think of. So I'll probably take off the flywheel and fool around with the actuator. When the clutch is engaged the plates come out. But I've noticed that the rear wheel is spinning still even when it is in gear. Not too sure. & I have #22
Hmmm, yeah give that a look. But without the clutch cover on it seems fine eh? No evidence on the inside of the clutch cover of the pressure plate hitting it I hope? Also did the bike just start doing this randomly? Any other recent work done to it? If you have the bike on the stand in gear with the clutch in, most bikes out there will still spin the rear wheel. They need to have a substantial enough load on the rear wheel to get the plates to slip on one another. And on the stand there isn’t much of a load so even the limited friction is enough to spin the wheel.
No I did not. My buddy put one in without having to do that plus I didn't take out the basket either and adjust the bearing too. Could that play a part too?
Even if it’s worked in the past soaking the fibre plates with oil is an easy troubleshooting step. It’s bit me before. They need time to soak. Also the basket doesn’t need to come out to inspect the tangs for grooves, just all the clutch plates need to be removed. If everything was working before this work was done, my guess though is that the plates aren’t saturated enough in oil. If it wasn’t working properly even before the work was done I’d guess the basket it notched. They are all pretty fool proof to put together, so I’m gonna assume it was assembled correctly
Perfect quarantine activity. Thanks for this how-to, going to work on the bike this weekend 😁
Ermagherd glad to hear good luck thanks bye dude have fun!
Thankyou very much i think i now found the problem - the outer clutch basket:/
More quarantine vids! Everyone has so much time to work on their bikes and follow these wonderful tutorials!
Ikr!
Smooth video. I'm going to do my CR500. Not sure if clutch kit comes with basket. I imagine mine has the grooves in tangs.
What causes it to kill it in first when u let off clutch because I’m running with choke on because it never wants to idle right with it off
There’s obviously enough friction with the clutch still in that it grabs just a bit. Plates should be removed and soaked in oil overnight. Or, start bike up, build revs up a bit, put into gear and hold clutch in for a minute. Then try it after. Or mis-adjusted clutch, not enough pull.
Idk how you torqued those spring bolts to 88 inch pounds. Tried doing that to mine and snapped the head right off the bolt
What size drive torque wrench did you use?? Either you set it to 88 ft/Lb or something was already wrong with that bolt. 88 in/lb is hardly any torque
I just bought a 92 cr250r and im taking the motor apart and my inner hub has some cracks on the inside of it around the studs I was wondering if anyone knew if this would affect the operation of the clutch and if I should spend the money replacing it
Well it won’t affect anything until one breaks. All depends on where its cracked. I’m guessing you’re referring to the studs that the clutch spring bolts thread into? They are the anchor that allow the springs to do their job. If say one was to snap on the outer end and only some material came off, but there was still enough threads for the bolt to grab, you’re probably ok for a bit. That’ll have to be a judgement call. But if it looks like it may snap in a way where the bolt isn’t securing anything anymore then yeah it’d greatly effect the operation of the clutch.
Hey there quick question what year is your bike ?91?
It’s a 98’
@@turdpike thank you nice bike !
Just want to see if anyone knows the answer to my problem, I have a 91 CR250 2 stroke. I'm having problems with my clutch engagement, when I put my pressure plate on I have movement between my clutch plates and the clutch is really really hard to pull in. Manual says there's no bearing for this year. The actuator is in good shape just replaced it. I have 7 clutch plates that are also in good shape. I'm not sure why I can't get the pressure plate tight against the disk. Any suggestions or tips ?
The parts diagram I see has a bearing, item #22 on this link.
www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/1991-honda-cr250r/o/m11896#sch413690
The clutch you have should be pretty similar if not the same as my 98’ here. As far as the movement goes, besides spring tensions and the physical width of each individual plate I can’t picture what would cause that. With the cover off how does it all look when you pull the clutch in? Does the plate come out evenly, albeit stiff?
@@turdpike yah without the plate everything pushes out nicely. I'm thinking it might be the rod isn't sitting properly on the actuator ? That's the only thing I can think of. So I'll probably take off the flywheel and fool around with the actuator. When the clutch is engaged the plates come out. But I've noticed that the rear wheel is spinning still even when it is in gear. Not too sure. & I have #22
Hmmm, yeah give that a look. But without the clutch cover on it seems fine eh? No evidence on the inside of the clutch cover of the pressure plate hitting it I hope? Also did the bike just start doing this randomly? Any other recent work done to it?
If you have the bike on the stand in gear with the clutch in, most bikes out there will still spin the rear wheel. They need to have a substantial enough load on the rear wheel to get the plates to slip on one another. And on the stand there isn’t much of a load so even the limited friction is enough to spin the wheel.
@@turdpike okay thank you !
How come my new clutch for my 2003 cr250r doesn't want to disengage and acts like it still in gear? Can you help to fix it?
Is the outer clutch basket notched? I describe it in the video
Also, did you let the plates soak in oil overnight before putting them in?
No I did not. My buddy put one in without having to do that plus I didn't take out the basket either and adjust the bearing too. Could that play a part too?
Even if it’s worked in the past soaking the fibre plates with oil is an easy troubleshooting step. It’s bit me before. They need time to soak. Also the basket doesn’t need to come out to inspect the tangs for grooves, just all the clutch plates need to be removed. If everything was working before this work was done, my guess though is that the plates aren’t saturated enough in oil. If it wasn’t working properly even before the work was done I’d guess the basket it notched. They are all pretty fool proof to put together, so I’m gonna assume it was assembled correctly
So what should I do, take out the clutch plates and soak them and then reinstall them? Thank you btw!