#1 reason why I went with the best 3D printer, prusa mk3s. Not a single problem with printing all the parts right the first time every time. Matter of fact I’m going to print another set just in case. Good build by the way!
Great Video and tips :) im already Own one of These for a year now. I had to reprint sliders too, in my case the Mistake was, i printed with 100% Material Flow. The Problem is Pla is getting bigger by cooling out. Had no problems with 90% Flow, everything Fits better than before.
@@motorsport_doc It would stand the heat better but PLA is harder and actually stronger before failing on load test (but brittle vs stretch) than PETG and should be better suited for this application
@@sixdegreesofflight7765 hi, im assembling my actuators right now, this video helped me, thanks! one of my actuators seems much looser than the others, when I shut it down, the one basically slams down, and the others float down a little more softly. do you have any variation like this in yours?
@@slikk66 Hi, I don't have any variation at all. If it's only the motion from working height to the rest position that is different, it points strongly to the Arduino being the problem. The first thing I would try is unplugging the DB25 cable and switching it with one of the known good ones. Then press Start and Stop. If that fixes it then I would try uploading the firmware to the Arduino again. Otherwise, I would replace the Arduino. All the best
@@sixdegreesofflight7765 ok thanks for replying, maybe I'll try opening up the actuators again and taking a look. i dont have the arduino connected yet, im simply using the JOG function on the driver boxes. if I lift them all up then let off, one slams down, the others are much softer as they return to bottom. it almost feels like the ball screw isnt tight enough on the shaft, if you just invert it the slider slides down, whereas the others dont, but I dont think that is a piece you can tighten :/ other than that it seems to work fine, just much easier to spin with pressure than the others. the fitment of the slider printed piece seems same as the others, there isn't a lot of play or anything.
@@slikk66 OK I understand now. The ball screws in mine are quite sticky. I did put in a LOT of grease but even before adding more grease they took some effort to move them. Even without the grease the ball screw should not move on its own. It almost seems like it doesn't have enough ball bearings to hold it snugly up against the lead screw. Let me know how it goes.
Saxxon66 has abandoned this project. Do not make a donation for advanced setting to SimFeedback, you WILL NOT GET IT! Go with the Thanos controller instead.
Thanks for putting up these two videos, started researching making these and a cost analysis and they helped a ton! Hope you're enjoying it!
#1 reason why I went with the best 3D printer, prusa mk3s. Not a single problem with printing all the parts right the first time every time. Matter of fact I’m going to print another set just in case. Good build by the way!
Thanks for the contribution.
Hey mate, just adding up the figures in the videos, excluding the 3d printed parts did this cost
i see some build of material that recommended using a LMK30uu and some LMEK30uu. which one is the correct one?
Great Video and tips :) im already Own one of These for a year now. I had to reprint sliders too, in my case the Mistake was, i printed with 100% Material Flow. The Problem is Pla is getting bigger by cooling out. Had no problems with 90% Flow, everything Fits better than before.
Thank you - that's a good tip. Time will tell how the filament I used stands up to wear and tear.
It’s so obvious that sliders take the most load and crap out before anything else. I’m going to try printing the next set of parts out of petg
@@motorsport_doc It would stand the heat better but PLA is harder and actually stronger before failing on load test (but brittle vs stretch) than PETG and should be better suited for this application
Great vid, I'm printing the parts now and have scared me quite a bit. Hopefully things print of as per the instructions.
Good luck!
@SixDegreesOfFlight Hi mate. At 2:19 your slider looks damaged can you explain what was up and why it looks likes this
Which nozzle size did you use for printing?
Sa ne fait pas 25 mais 24 en théorie?
Wow wee not bad mate
Thank you!
what is the model of the moor?
90ST M02430 servo drivers and motors
Aliexpress - David Shen
@@sixdegreesofflight7765 hi, im assembling my actuators right now, this video helped me, thanks! one of my actuators seems much looser than the others, when I shut it down, the one basically slams down, and the others float down a little more softly. do you have any variation like this in yours?
@@slikk66 Hi, I don't have any variation at all. If it's only the motion from working height to the rest position that is different, it points strongly to the Arduino being the problem. The first thing I would try is unplugging the DB25 cable and switching it with one of the known good ones. Then press Start and Stop. If that fixes it then I would try uploading the firmware to the Arduino again. Otherwise, I would replace the Arduino. All the best
@@sixdegreesofflight7765 ok thanks for replying, maybe I'll try opening up the actuators again and taking a look. i dont have the arduino connected yet, im simply using the JOG function on the driver boxes. if I lift them all up then let off, one slams down, the others are much softer as they return to bottom. it almost feels like the ball screw isnt tight enough on the shaft, if you just invert it the slider slides down, whereas the others dont, but I dont think that is a piece you can tighten :/ other than that it seems to work fine, just much easier to spin with pressure than the others. the fitment of the slider printed piece seems same as the others, there isn't a lot of play or anything.
@@slikk66 OK I understand now. The ball screws in mine are quite sticky. I did put in a LOT of grease but even before adding more grease they took some effort to move them. Even without the grease the ball screw should not move on its own. It almost seems like it doesn't have enough ball bearings to hold it snugly up against the lead screw. Let me know how it goes.
Can you be my sponsor :) ?
Saxxon66 has abandoned this project. Do not make a donation for advanced setting to SimFeedback, you WILL NOT GET IT! Go with the Thanos controller instead.
Agreed! I have just purchased the Thanos4U module and registered version of Simracing studio.
He is happy to take your money. Tried contacting him with no success to get my money back.