Two guys right here who must have at least 50 combined years of reloading for competitive shooting. Thank you, Erik. I really learned a lot and regarded each word in this interview.
Erik - HUGE fan of your page! watched TONS of hours of your videos. SUPER helpful making small groups happen for me :-) BUT, I'm really not clear on something with some of my Redding die sets. They have a "speedy" bushing "NK" die in the same kit as a FL die kit... but then on other kits I have only a "FL" type "S" die... is there ANY reason you'd want to separate the "NK" sizing operation from the "FL" operation?? I FL size every time to a .002 bump with a neck bushing, all in one step, no mandrel afterwards, and usually just leave the "NK" die in the case chucked to the side because I don't know when the heck in the brass prep process I would use it... Please help!
Caveat: I’m lazy. I trim 1/2 between min and max length BEFORE sizing, but do it every time. I’m not going for match winning accuracy. 1 moa is satisfactory for what I do with my rifles.
No offense bud, but if you're asking that question you probably shouldn't be reloading. The short answer is yes. At a minimum they should be resized, then measured for overall case length, before being reloaded. If your case is too long and you drive the mouth into the front of the chamber where it doesn't have room to move, you're basically shoving a cone, tight inside another cone...then releasing 44,000 psi behind it. Best case scenario your gun doesn't shoot for crap, middle case scenario, the case is too long and the gun jams, trying to load. Worst case scenario, the gun explodes in your face because the chamber pressure skyrockets and can't release pressure fast enough. (These guys are/were naively nuts) On a side note, not all brass grows at the same rate. High pressure, bottleneck carriages grow the most. Low pressure straight wall cases grow the least. (Example: a 45 auto case would be completely junk before it grew enough to ever need trimming)
@@EitriBrokkr Oh sorry for the misunderstanding. I know all of that. I meant for fine tuning MOA. With the tube magazine attatched to the barrel, the barrel harmonics are only so sensitive so no tuner would be useful. Was wondering if there was a sweet spot for trim length on a lever action.I will find out myself, I just dont get out much lately
@@vdog4799 I don't know why you'd think a tuner would be useless. All barrels have harmonics. All it does is letting you manually adjust the harmonics. That being said, they are kind of a scam, because you can tune your reloads to your barrel. The only reason to tune your barrel to your ammo is A. You're lazy and B. You only shoot factory ammo.
Tuners are used in high level F-Class and Benchrest competitions. You don’t think we know how to load ammo or tune ammo to barrel? 🙄 Tuner add another layer of tunability. It allows us to get the most out of our handloads.
This podcast is worth gold!
Always trim....that was one of the first things we were told to do 30 years ago when handloading...good to hear it's importance.
Two guys right here who must have at least 50 combined years of reloading for competitive shooting. Thank you, Erik. I really learned a lot and regarded each word in this interview.
I hope you learned what not to do
Jack is THE MAN.
Right now watching this and full sizing 👍
Great info!! Happy new year.
Going to fireform some brass at the range in morning. Great vids
Erik - HUGE fan of your page! watched TONS of hours of your videos. SUPER helpful making small groups happen for me :-) BUT, I'm really not clear on something with some of my Redding die sets. They have a "speedy" bushing "NK" die in the same kit as a FL die kit... but then on other kits I have only a "FL" type "S" die... is there ANY reason you'd want to separate the "NK" sizing operation from the "FL" operation?? I FL size every time to a .002 bump with a neck bushing, all in one step, no mandrel afterwards, and usually just leave the "NK" die in the case chucked to the side because I don't know when the heck in the brass prep process I would use it... Please help!
Some people ONLY neck size, no full length size. They're not usually used together
Always trim before matches 👍 and cull them when the web gets to hard or primer pockets get loose
Caveat: I’m lazy. I trim 1/2 between min and max length BEFORE sizing, but do it every time. I’m not going for match winning accuracy. 1 moa is satisfactory for what I do with my rifles.
Erik
I'd like to ask can you explain shoulder bumping for belted magnums I'm a little confused with these cases
Is there a happy medium that you should trim to? Or is this going to change barrel to barrel?
I would like to know too.
It’s based on the reamer that was used. For correct trim length just check the print for the reamer used to chamber your rifle
Turn closed captioning on and go to 8min 33sec. You'll get a good laugh at what you read.
Oh no, please don't make me trim...
So that applies to all rifles? I have a lever action Winchester 25-35
No offense bud, but if you're asking that question you probably shouldn't be reloading.
The short answer is yes. At a minimum they should be resized, then measured for overall case length, before being reloaded.
If your case is too long and you drive the mouth into the front of the chamber where it doesn't have room to move, you're basically shoving a cone, tight inside another cone...then releasing 44,000 psi behind it.
Best case scenario your gun doesn't shoot for crap, middle case scenario, the case is too long and the gun jams, trying to load. Worst case scenario, the gun explodes in your face because the chamber pressure skyrockets and can't release pressure fast enough. (These guys are/were naively nuts)
On a side note, not all brass grows at the same rate. High pressure, bottleneck carriages grow the most. Low pressure straight wall cases grow the least. (Example: a 45 auto case would be completely junk before it grew enough to ever need trimming)
@@EitriBrokkr Oh sorry for the misunderstanding. I know all of that. I meant for fine tuning MOA. With the tube magazine attatched to the barrel, the barrel harmonics are only so sensitive so no tuner would be useful. Was wondering if there was a sweet spot for trim length on a lever action.I will find out myself, I just dont get out much lately
@@vdog4799 I don't know why you'd think a tuner would be useless. All barrels have harmonics. All it does is letting you manually adjust the harmonics.
That being said, they are kind of a scam, because you can tune your reloads to your barrel. The only reason to tune your barrel to your ammo is A. You're lazy and B. You only shoot factory ammo.
@@EitriBrokkr 👍
Tuners are used in high level F-Class and Benchrest competitions. You don’t think we know how to load ammo or tune ammo to barrel? 🙄
Tuner add another layer of tunability. It allows us to get the most out of our handloads.
Do you still use the 1.525" reamer?
Really? You didn't think trimming brass was important? Amateur hour...