Very helpful. I smooshed the input sensor B wires and exposed the conductors trying to get the trans back in place. I found a replacement pigtail right away once you mentioned the ABS pigtail is the same.
I have a cheap cable obd2 I don't believe I have options for PID, would you happen to know if cheap obd2 scanners have options for pid, I might have to invest in a better obd2 or a wireless wifi obd2
Recently I found your video and very instructive. I have ford focus 2014 but it's giving me hard time with the ABS light, traction control and speedometer doesn't work. I changed all the wheels sensor already. Front right wheel sensor is not reading, besides that ANY advice. Thank you 👍 👍👍👍 Good day
Hey Ben, big fan of your videos I actually recently did the clutch/fork replacement on my ford focus 2013 thanks to your tutorials I put everything back but the car won’t start I put the scanner in to it to do the adaptive learning and I get a range sensor code do you think thats the reason for the car not starting I also noticed that on the scanner I can see that it says it’s on drive when it’s really on park I’m thinking of replacing the range sensor but I thought I’d run it by you thanks again
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles that is the first thing I checked when i noticed it was not working I get a lot of different range sensor codes like P0707,P2801,P2802,P2803 I just hope it’s not tcm related
@2010dlewis the tcm uses an algorithm that uses detected slip to assume overheating. Usually if overheating you need a full clutch job and new actuators
@ okay good. Makes me feel little better. Just done the clutch swap from your videos and I half broke this connector. Car says not in park. That’s what I was hoping was. Thank you for fast reply
@ ok. So I checked the connector. Getting 5 volts. But no crank. Took the shifter off moved it to park. No crank. The indicator light isn’t on either. I just put new clutch in it and just had TCM repaired few weeks ago before I done the clutch. Do you think it’s the positional sensor? Or is it a voltage issue?
I broke sensor a removing transmission luckily I was able to find the problem as it was letting me program it in forscan fixed it and running great still!
Big Ben I replaced both oem actuators and it made my shifting worse and the performance worse my speedometer wasn't working and my dash started acting up, I had to take them back out and put the old ones back In, when I took it for a test drive I decided to just step on the gas pedal and see what happens with the old actuators the rpms still hit 2500 almost 3000 in 1st and 2nd and 3rd gear, this is an automatic transmission, I ordered an output shaft speed sensor I'll see if that fixes the problem, next step would probably be to replace the TCM, any suggestions?
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles no codes are showing, my speedometer works just fine now with the old actuators put back in, I'll wait until I get the output shaft speed sensor installed and see what happens probably nothing lol, I don't think it's normal for a car to hit 2500 or 3000 rpms In 1st 2nd, 3rd gear is it? Can a bad tcm cause that to happen? Will PID read the tcm ?
I just read online that if you have an automatic transmission dual clutch and your replacing the actuators that the tcm needs to be re-learned or reprogrammed with an high end scan tool or thru the ford dealer is this true? That's probably why the actuators were not were not working correctly?
Could the sensor B being faulty, be the cause of the transmission overheating? It says the transmission is overheating but I checked it with an obd2 scanner and it says its just the clutch position sensor B
@ Thanks for the quick reply I also had another question. When I turn the key the car wont start for a few cranks until I hear the engine make a lot of noises then it will start. This noise also happens when I open the door does that mean its most probably the actuators as you mentioned?
Great job ben! Just wondering if i have a error code P1934 Engine Control Unit - Vehicle Speed Signal, can i solve the error just by replacing the input speed sensor A (the grey one). I have other codes about ABS U3000(48), but i just want to leave it by when i have the funds to replace/fix the ABS. Thankyou!
@risuchannel8115 hi, glad the videos helped. I would look for a damaged OSS or OSS wiring. If that looks OK, I'd monitor signals for OSS, rf wheel speed and left front wheel speed while driving
Hey Ben, you have been really helpful with the problems I have been having with my ford focus. I am in the middle of replacing my neutral safety switch and I am having trouble getting the connector off and I don’t want to break it. Could you please explain how it’s supposed to come off? It would be greatly appreciated
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles yes i do see a p287B , the car can drive in forward but the reverse isn't taking along with the second gear. the clutch was updated because i saw a sticker on the transmission stated. any advice on how i can check to fix this please . thank you so much in advance watching your videos give me a sense of relief
My vehicle makes like a rattling noise from the driver side. Think its transmission related. It does it before giving gas and get it moving. Then noise goes away. Then back when at idle. Any idel why it makes noise?
Hi BigBen thanks for sharing this video. My 2010 ford fiesta 1.6 T giving me lot of issues with the transmission malfunction message. I went to a dealer service and after diagnose they informed TCM module need replace. The next day when i went to replace the part they informed the ABS also need replace. I feel something wrong and i didnt replace anything after seeing the cost of both module arround 1500$ Still the car is running and speedo Audo meter not working. Some time the car show the message transmission malfunction service now!!! Can you advise me any other reason for this issue or I need to replace the TCM and ABS?
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles There are a bunch of codes as below P0507: 27-24 U2005: 86-EC 1934: 86-EC U0001: 88-2E U0121: 87-2F U0101: 00 - AE P060A: 47-AF P0072: 94-AE I did a 150k service in another dealer center last week and after diagnose they repeated the same to change the ABS module. Now after service the engine malfunction also showing and dealer saying it all because of ABS module. They said I can use the car but ABS will not work.
hey ben: i recently rebuilt my 6f35 and got it working great, for a few hundred miles. i have a bearing that goes between the 3-5-reverse and the case. the one at the bottom that surrounds the ring tower. do you know the name of this bearing? i found a kit, but i really just want the one bearing and dont know what its called so i cant find it anywhere. anything helps. thanks
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles ok let me tell you the car drives fine and also I have no check engine light on like if something is wrong with the transmission like you would usually get from a faulty A or B Fork or actuator
All your videos are extremely helpful and very well done . Much appreciate all you do for us ford owners .
As usual, Ben is just out here saving the world. Well atleast the DPS6 world. Thanks Ben!
Very helpful. I smooshed the input sensor B wires and exposed the conductors trying to get the trans back in place. I found a replacement pigtail right away once you mentioned the ABS pigtail is the same.
Love it, it's already been out for the clutch update in the past and what do you know, she's out again 😃
Ben, Great video. Can you replace the sensor - output shaft speed and transmission connector kit without going under the car?
Yes. You can remove the airbox, battery, battery tray, and unplug all 3 speed sensors, then pull the harness up on top to work on it.
Excellent videos. Thank you😊
Thank you so much for your help Ben. just to make doubly sure all three sensors have a spacer on them or only the top two.? Thank you!
@MartinBachler just the top two you're welcome !
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles bro that is the best news anyone has given me in my whole life almost.
Thanks has help on my sho
If I'm not showing any codes can a faulty output shaft speed sensor cause poor acceleration with high rpms?
@@michaelbarela2733 maybe. Check the pids on the scan tool for signal drops or spikes
I have a cheap cable obd2 I don't believe I have options for PID, would you happen to know if cheap obd2 scanners have options for pid, I might have to invest in a better obd2 or a wireless wifi obd2
@michaelbarela2733 forscan is a good option, you need a laptop interface for 30 bucks
Can I reline the stud in the flywheel after the transmission is in ?
No, it needs to be pulled back. But I haven't found indexing to be a problem
Recently I found your video and very instructive.
I have ford focus 2014 but it's giving me hard time with the ABS light, traction control and speedometer doesn't work.
I changed all the wheels sensor already.
Front right wheel sensor is not reading, besides that ANY advice.
Thank you 👍 👍👍👍 Good day
@@ismaelalvarado706 hi! Check for damaged wires by the abs module behind the battery tray
thank you for this, very informative
You're welcome!
Hey Ben, big fan of your videos I actually recently did the clutch/fork replacement on my ford focus 2013 thanks to your tutorials I put everything back but the car won’t start I put the scanner in to it to do the adaptive learning and I get a range sensor code do you think thats the reason for the car not starting I also noticed that on the scanner I can see that it says it’s on drive when it’s really on park I’m thinking of replacing the range sensor but I thought I’d run it by you thanks again
@@LuisGarcia-pr3rv hi, glad the the videos helped. I would make sure you reattached the shifter cable to the transmission
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles that is the first thing I checked when i noticed it was not working I get a lot of different range sensor codes like P0707,P2801,P2802,P2803 I just hope it’s not tcm related
Which sensor is the “overheating “
@2010dlewis the tcm uses an algorithm that uses detected slip to assume overheating. Usually if overheating you need a full clutch job and new actuators
@ I did that already. Just started driving it. After 20 minutes on highway it pops up.
Which one is the park sensor? Or neutral sensor?
@@2010dlewis it's the range sensor on top
@ okay good. Makes me feel little better. Just done the clutch swap from your videos and I half broke this connector. Car says not in park. That’s what I was hoping was. Thank you for fast reply
@ ok. So I checked the connector. Getting 5 volts. But no crank. Took the shifter off moved it to park. No crank. The indicator light isn’t on either. I just put new clutch in it and just had TCM repaired few weeks ago before I done the clutch. Do you think it’s the positional sensor? Or is it a voltage issue?
@ also do you know what numbers 1,2,3,4 on the position sensor I can jump to get it to crank?
I broke sensor a removing transmission luckily I was able to find the problem as it was letting me program it in forscan fixed it and running great still!
Big Ben I replaced both oem actuators and it made my shifting worse and the performance worse my speedometer wasn't working and my dash started acting up, I had to take them back out and put the old ones back In, when I took it for a test drive I decided to just step on the gas pedal and see what happens with the old actuators the rpms still hit 2500 almost 3000 in 1st and 2nd and 3rd gear, this is an automatic transmission, I ordered an output shaft speed sensor I'll see if that fixes the problem, next step would probably be to replace the TCM, any suggestions?
@michaelbarela2733 hi, what fault codes are present? And yeah since your speed wasn't showing that may be the problem
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles no codes are showing, my speedometer works just fine now with the old actuators put back in, I'll wait until I get the output shaft speed sensor installed and see what happens probably nothing lol, I don't think it's normal for a car to hit 2500 or 3000 rpms In 1st 2nd, 3rd gear is it? Can a bad tcm cause that to happen? Will PID read the tcm ?
@michaelbarela2733 I'd drive it until it sets a code. If you full throttle it while it's acting strange that can help set a code faster
I just read online that if you have an automatic transmission dual clutch and your replacing the actuators that the tcm needs to be re-learned or reprogrammed with an high end scan tool or thru the ford dealer is this true? That's probably why the actuators were not were not working correctly?
@@michaelbarela2733 hi, replacing the 2 actuators does not require anything after
Could the sensor B being faulty, be the cause of the transmission overheating? It says the transmission is overheating but I checked it with an obd2 scanner and it says its just the clutch position sensor B
I've got a video for clutch position sensor codes explained. Its probably a bad actuator
@ Thanks for the quick reply I also had another question. When I turn the key the car wont start for a few cranks until I hear the engine make a lot of noises then it will start. This noise also happens when I open the door does that mean its most probably the actuators as you mentioned?
Hi Ben, somehow I lost the third speed sensor spacer. Where do I get a new one?
@@MartinBachler junkyard or ford dealer
Thank you!
Is normal when the car is reversing, there is a clicking sound. I don't know if its the tcm. Thank you
Great job ben! Just wondering if i have a error code P1934 Engine Control Unit - Vehicle Speed Signal, can i solve the error just by replacing the input speed sensor A (the grey one). I have other codes about ABS U3000(48), but i just want to leave it by when i have the funds to replace/fix the ABS. Thankyou!
@risuchannel8115 hi, glad the videos helped. I would look for a damaged OSS or OSS wiring. If that looks OK, I'd monitor signals for OSS, rf wheel speed and left front wheel speed while driving
Thanks for the information!
You bet!
Do you have a link or a part code for the input speed sensors A/B?
Hey Ben, you have been really helpful with the problems I have been having with my ford focus. I am in the middle of replacing my neutral safety switch and I am having trouble getting the connector off and I don’t want to break it. Could you please explain how it’s supposed to come off? It would be greatly appreciated
I'm glad the videos helped. There's a lock you have to slide up. Then the connector has a release button and comes up
Excellent mate !
Good evening sir, I have a question which signal use de instrumental cluster for vehícle speed ? The oss sensor or the wheel speed sensor ?
hey love the great work you'r doing, im kinda suck right now but have you ever deal with a 2014 focus with a code p2837?
Hi, glad to help. If that's your only code (and you dont have P287B) then its probably a bad tcm
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles yes i do see a p287B , the car can drive in forward but the reverse isn't taking along with the second gear. the clutch was updated because i saw a sticker on the transmission stated. any advice on how i can check to fix this please . thank you so much in advance watching your videos give me a sense of relief
My vehicle makes like a rattling noise from the driver side. Think its transmission related. It does it before giving gas and get it moving. Then noise goes away. Then back when at idle. Any idel why it makes noise?
Sounds like soda cans? It’s the two clock gears apparently it’s normal
Thank you very much !
@@elgroso806 you're welcome!
Hi BigBen thanks for sharing this video. My 2010 ford fiesta 1.6 T giving me lot of issues with the transmission malfunction message. I went to a dealer service and after diagnose they informed TCM module need replace. The next day when i went to replace the part they informed the ABS also need replace. I feel something wrong and i didnt replace anything after seeing the cost of both module arround 1500$ Still the car is running and speedo Audo meter not working. Some time the car show the message transmission malfunction service now!!! Can you advise me any other reason for this issue or I need to replace the TCM and ABS?
What codes are you getting?
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles There are a bunch of codes as below
P0507: 27-24
U2005: 86-EC
1934: 86-EC
U0001: 88-2E
U0121: 87-2F
U0101: 00 - AE
P060A: 47-AF
P0072: 94-AE
I did a 150k service in another dealer center last week and after diagnose they repeated the same to change the ABS module. Now after service the engine malfunction also showing and dealer saying it all because of ABS module. They said I can use the car but ABS will not work.
What if it fails the test of the ISS and OSS sensor using an IDS.
Check for chafed wires next to the sensors
hey ben: i recently rebuilt my 6f35 and got it working great, for a few hundred miles. i have a bearing that goes between the 3-5-reverse and the case. the one at the bottom that surrounds the ring tower. do you know the name of this bearing? i found a kit, but i really just want the one bearing and dont know what its called so i cant find it anywhere. anything helps. thanks
Direct/od to case thrust bearing. It'll be obvious it's the only one with black on one side
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles thanks, been looking for weeks
Is it normal for the transmission to shudder and vibrate hard?
Pretty much characteristic
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles but it only does it when is in idle also I get that code that says transmission fault service now
@andresquinonezramirez9373 OK that's not normal. Gotta diagnose the code
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles ok let me tell you the car drives fine and also I have no check engine light on like if something is wrong with the transmission like you would usually get from a faulty A or B Fork or actuator
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles what you think it could be?
Отличный мастер
Спасибо. Я рад, что это было полезно для вас.
Hi