So there are a couple things about this that I think are important. First, you showed people a lot of resourcefulness figuring these different steps out. Second, you're showing what someone who knows their trade can do to save useful equipment from going to the scrap yard. I love seeing good machines get saved and getting a second life. And lastly, you're showing young people how smart you need to be to do this work, and you bring diginity to the art of working with your hands. Thanks for sharing this, I learned a lot. Appreciate you.
That is an excellent job done. You helped someone who couldn’t do the job, at a very reasonable price. Kudos to you. I wish there were more people around like you!
Thank you too! CHECK OUT THIS GANG MOWER Help me out with a comment & share on your social media th-cam.com/video/fJbMjetltTc/w-d-xo.htmlsi=i_PTXBeUL5IewtcM
First thing i try to remove a broken bolt like that is to sharpen a chisel real good and hit it so it digs in and i turn the bolt as i hit it...if the bolt is loose and able to move..you can get it out pretty fast and easy... even if it is tight i have a 90%+ chance of extracting it without any major effort.... if that fails i go to the welding or drilling plans .... have done them all to get a bolt removed... 50 + years of fixing stuff 🇨🇦🤓🤟
Done that before. The bolt was not rusted in and might have turned fairly easy. It does turn slow and can be difficult in close quarters. His welded on bolt head looked really good though. I missed out on the cussin' at nickel.
First time look & subscribe. Masterful work! Whatever you charged the customer was not near enough. That tractor was rode hard and put away wet all its life I bet. Excellent, thanks!
Most of my viewers don't understand how TH-cam works and they don't comment, subscribe, like, or do anything that helps with the algorithm that spreads the videos and grows the channel. Most of my regular viewers aren't even signed up so they can't subscribe. Thanks for watching and commenting
As an owner of an old workhorse of a tractor i gotta say this was an awesome video and hell of a job. You seem to really know your metallurgy and have some skill. I hope to be on your level one day. Keep making this great content.
Hey CB, great repair on the old Mahindra. I think you're right about the bolts working loose, which started the whole breakdown in motion. On the Locktite, it sets up in the absence of air, so you've got some time. Heat will reduce the amount of torque required to loosen a bolt if locktite is used. I twisted the square drive of a 1/2" Snapon ratchet off on the rear brake calipers of a Ford F450 the first time I tried to remove the calipers. Next time I waved the torch over the caliper directly above the bolt just to warm it up and it came apart with little effort. This was on first time removal with factory Ford yellow locktite. So heat does help.
Hi, great job mate, very professional, and clearly explained the way you went about it, as a 75yr old ex mechanic I still learned a thing or two from watching a craftsman at work. And I was most impressed by the very tidy shop you have there, thanks for the video, stay safe, best wishe's to you and your's, Stuart UK.
Obewan Phillips pulled off some real Jedi engeneering on this one! Thanks for all the detailed explanations of your process, CB…makes the time watching worth the effort. You did very well on that repair, and the 7018 in the transmission case turned out to be a fortunate thing indeed! Keep up the good work!
great job i have a drill doctor for about 10 years and until now never had dull drill bit and it even does concrete bits and broken drill bits it puts a point back om them
That was an extremely good job. I have no idea what kind of metal the transmission housing was but I know if I tried that there would been gear oil on the floor and one totally screwed up tractor. The bolt removal was very good too. The owner of that tractor was very lucky in find you to make this repair.
Welding on a stud removes the studs temper and makes it very weak...bolts, studs, or chain links that have been welded on are not as strong as they were originally
I watch all your videos, not that I’m calling you old , but you’re just a smart old dude. Remind me so much of all the people that have taught me along my way in life, would be awesome to work with you one day
I have not watched the whole video because I came across it late Friday night, but when I first saw the damage, I thought to myself that it's a "total" in terms of the damage, and then you made the same comment at just over 7:00 minutes into the vid. So I'm looking forward to seeing what you do with this mess- and that's what it is, a MESS. But I can't wait to see you work your magic.
Great job again. I had to drill a hole that was welded with nickel rod in a water pump hole on a small block 400. I ended up setting the engine in a drill press, and drilled the hole with a burr bit, and somehow got it tapped. A royal pain in the butt. Got it done, but that sucked. Thank you for bringing back a memory from the early 90’s.
Nice stuff! I was thinking about a stud in the casting broken out and nickel rod together. Hopefully the bracket could fit back? Very cool video. No $h!t too 😅
Well done CB! I've heard of & used the grinder/spark test.....but that's the first I've heard of cutting it to test with O/A; will definitely remember that one. 7018 is some awesome rod, & undoubtedly stronger than the original. Glad it worked!
Blessings Brother. My Momma used to say "Stay within your station"! That applies to machines too. I wonder if the Good 'Ol Boy wasn't taxing the machine in ways beyond its designed limits. Just saying.
This is a reminder for the annual look over to see if frame bolts, draw bar and lug nuts are tight. We forget. But with all but one coming loose, th dealer's install played a part in this failure. Almost like they forgot to torque that side.
I would have cut a new front plate bolted it in place and tacked the rest of the bracket to it. Seems simpler than welding all those little fatigued pieces back together There are lots more version of thread locker than just red and blue. If you're worried about time use an anaerobic thread locker
What your suggesting would take alot more work than what I did with no improvement in outcome...making a new plate involves much more cutting and drilling time than I spent welding
The "other " option is to weld a stud in the hole " if" you can attach loader back on no clearance issues, an weld with nickel or 7018 save the drillng time,, an attach loader back on with nut an lock washer , some dosing on my part
Welding studs damages the heat treatment of the stud and once you destroy the temper by welding on it the stud is much weaker....welded studs or chain links that have been welded on have no where near the strength they originally had
Such a great job done on this wee tractor CB. I have a question. Can you explain why we pein the weld after each small pass? I was told this was to prevent the weld from cracking.
When you peen the hot metal you are causing it to expand into the steel that you just welded it to....that helps to fight against the force of the shrinking it is trying to do as it cools which could pull the weld away from the base metal....so yes it absolutely can help prevent cracking
@NBSWELDING Ok awesome! So you using the needle scaler would have had a positive effect on the outcome of this weld repair. The last one I did I did by hand and it was a slow process. I now have a needle scaler. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge.
I know this sounds simplistic, why not use quality lockwashers or star washers on the bolts? They're tightening against the flat steel of the brackets which seem to be a nice flat, true surface to bite into. And like you've stated, won't be a bear to deal with in the future?
I've not ever been impressed with lockwashers...I've actually had things come loose because of the failure of a lockwasher...they also make bolts longer and a shorter bolt is stronger
There you go CB! Good job. These are the kind of jobs that I seem to get on a pretty regular basis. Not to be ornery but, given that all of this carnage is just below the engine oil filter and that it didn’t just happen overnight, in one instant event; how do you not see what’s fixing to happen while servicing the tractor? Oh wait, I know…, he’s NOT servicing the tractor 🤷🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️🤬!
The stress of using the bucket (ramming, digging, and prying) caused flexing of the loader frame and it worked the bolts out. This happens often with these light duty machines. They're not designed for this kind of abuse. If you would've red locktighted or barred the bolts, the stresses will build until the next weakest link would break. Probably the case. This customer needs a heavier duty machine like a skid steer.
Bolts like these need to be checked yearly. But you could be right, i didn't realize how small the tractor was till he was knelt beside it and zoomed out.
For the bolt hole with the missing chunk, was there an option to the plug the hole with a carbon or copper rod and weld around the rod to build it up? Then remove the rod and tap the hole?
CB, I’ve seen you do more with stick wire than most guys could do if they were given their choice of any process. But do you own any machines that run solid or flux cored wire. Just curious! I know if it ain’t broke don’t fix it
3:30 beginning of the failure....nope Beginning failure is..... china made... foreign made... not made to last no more.... 40's/50's/60's/70's USA made or Canada made. Very very unlikely This problem would not of developed.😁 For me I would make fold over locks so the bolts would not come undone again. Great job as always good to see you had time to make a video 👍👍
I agree with you, you gotta be a jack-of-all-trades to do something like this repair. I'm alot like that too, except for the welding\machining experience. I don't doubt for a minute that you're the man(Ninja) for this project!👍🏻👌🏻🛠️🔧🔩🚜 This is also why its a great idea that you wanna go around and check all the brackets, nuts, bolts, and such on your machines from time to time looking for loose or broken stuff! These 17 bolts didn't fall out in one day of use. I get it though, you get to working at a steady pace and don't notice a bolt or 2 falls off, gets pressed into mud\dirt pile\hole, never to be seen again. These things do happen from time to time, especially on a tractor that vibrates like I'm sure this one does well. This is where the old (red or blue?)Locktite comes into play to prevent bolts from backing out of their holes...ever, from vibration! Don't forget the Locktite when putting these accessories onto your tractor or anything else, and torque to manufacturers specifications to reduce chances of them falling out like this. If theres no nylock nut, or lock washer definitely use a lil blue Loctite to prevent fasteners from backing out & potentially wreaking havoc inside something that will cause permanent catastrophic damage when the bolt or nut goes through a set of gears, a chain, or something even worse. This is the reason why they tell you to re-torque your new wheels after 50 -100 miles, cause they will probably need a little tightening up after some vibration, several heat up\cool down phases, etc. Stay safe & check dem nuts! 🤔👍🏻👌🏻🛠️🔧🗜️📏🔩🔧🔩⚙️✔️✅✔️
15:14 Wow I almost forgot how yellow those old incandescent light bulb 'drop lights' are! They're becoming rarer by the day with all of the LED 'light bulbs' on everything nowadays which are a much whiter light(temperature). It's hard to even find them at the stores anymore, because they're getting outlawed in many places, replaced by CFL, & LED's. Even some of the [worklight]halogen bulbs are getting harder to find now. 💡🔦🕯️
Surprised to see you stick weld instead of using mig torch. Usually I always see everyone doing this broken bolt extraction with MIG wire cause its finer. I guess they both have their pros & cons. You can see more with stick, the mig torch blocks some of what you can see but wire sticking out is easier to get on to smaller diameter bolt\holes. You're just a ninja with whatever you use & I love watching the Master. Learn to work with what you got then you always have what you need! (I think I got that right!?)🤔😀😂😂👍🏻 Have you ever heard, seen or done one of these extractions that were so deep you need to use a copper tube in the hole to prevent fusing bolt to threads & surface? I remember seeing someone on YT doing it that way before, but can't seem to find it now. ->Put the small diameter copper tube into the hole, build up weld slowly to get up above surface so you can get the nut &\or washer stuck to the snapped stud. Copper tube just prevents sticking the wrong stuff together inside hole. Carry on Sensei! 👍🏻
And another win for the 7018…🫡 Did ya give any thought to simply converting that one hole into a stud? Insert a threaded rod into what remained of the threads and then do your build-up of the housing while welding the stud in place with the nickel rod. Just a thought. 😁
When you weld on a stud the heat will remove its temper and can make it every weak...a bolt, stud, or chain link that has been welded on is no where near as strong as it once was
So there are a couple things about this that I think are important. First, you showed people a lot of resourcefulness figuring these different steps out. Second, you're showing what someone who knows their trade can do to save useful equipment from going to the scrap yard. I love seeing good machines get saved and getting a second life. And lastly, you're showing young people how smart you need to be to do this work, and you bring diginity to the art of working with your hands. Thanks for sharing this, I learned a lot. Appreciate you.
Thanks for everything
love your videos cb iv been welder fabricator for nearly 20 years and i learn something new from you on every single video i watch 👍
Cool, thanks
That is an excellent job done. You helped someone who couldn’t do the job, at a very reasonable price. Kudos to you. I wish there were more people around like you!
Thank you
A lot of people don’t realize how hard of a repair that was
Beautiful work
👍👍👍 Great job. Thank you
Thank you too!
CHECK OUT THIS GANG MOWER
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First thing i try to remove a broken bolt like that is to sharpen a chisel real good and hit it so it digs in and i turn the bolt as i hit it...if the bolt is loose and able to move..you can get it out pretty fast and easy... even if it is tight i have a 90%+ chance of extracting it without any major effort.... if that fails i go to the welding or drilling plans .... have done them all to get a bolt removed...
50 + years of fixing stuff
🇨🇦🤓🤟
Done that before. The bolt was not rusted in and might have turned fairly easy. It does turn slow and can be difficult in close quarters.
His welded on bolt head looked really good though. I missed out on the cussin' at nickel.
From a fellow West Virginian really nice job.
Thanks
Amazing skill enjoyed watching
Thanks for watching and commenting
Respect from West Texas
Thanks
First time look & subscribe. Masterful work! Whatever you charged the customer was not near enough. That tractor was rode hard and put away wet all its life I bet. Excellent, thanks!
I don’t understand how every one of your videos doesn’t have 10s of thousands of views.
Most of my viewers don't understand how TH-cam works and they don't comment, subscribe, like, or do anything that helps with the algorithm that spreads the videos and grows the channel.
Most of my regular viewers aren't even signed up so they can't subscribe.
Thanks for watching and commenting
Please share the channel
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@@NBSWELDING I hear ya. I always try to like and comment. Anytime I see comments talking about best channels I recommend you.
Excellent job
Professionel work what a task
Bravo well do e
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As an owner of an old workhorse of a tractor i gotta say this was an awesome video and hell of a job. You seem to really know your metallurgy and have some skill. I hope to be on your level one day. Keep making this great content.
Thanks
Will do
Thank you very much!
Awesome job molten metal manipulation at it finest 🎉.
Thanks 😅
Hey CB, great repair on the old Mahindra. I think you're right about the bolts working loose, which started the whole breakdown in motion. On the Locktite, it sets up in the absence of air, so you've got some time. Heat will reduce the amount of torque required to loosen a bolt if locktite is used. I twisted the square drive of a 1/2" Snapon ratchet off on the rear brake calipers of a Ford F450 the first time I tried to remove the calipers. Next time I waved the torch over the caliper directly above the bolt just to warm it up and it came apart with little effort. This was on first time removal with factory Ford yellow locktite. So heat does help.
Thanks And good to hear from ya again
Hi, great job mate, very professional, and clearly explained the way you went about it, as a 75yr old ex mechanic I still learned a thing or two from watching a craftsman at work. And I was most impressed by the very tidy shop you have there, thanks for the video, stay safe, best wishe's to you and your's, Stuart UK.
Thanks 👍
Great job. Learned good pointers on welding broken bolt and dealing with cast iron. Repair was first class. Thank you.😊
So nice to see someone who says what they mean and means what they say. Keep up the great videos!
Hotter than a "hub to hell". Love it 😀 Thanks for letting me watch your brain work out a problem.
😁
Fantastic job mate
Many thanks!
i have learned a lot watching you. you are a great mechanic . keep on keeping on ✌️👌👍👀
Thanks 👍
Fantastic job sir showing what you did and what rods and tools you did it with. Most people wouldn't have explained it to the point you did.
Thanks. Great video.
Thanks for watching
Obewan Phillips pulled off some real Jedi engeneering on this one! Thanks for all the detailed explanations of your process, CB…makes the time watching worth the effort. You did very well on that repair, and the 7018 in the transmission case turned out to be a fortunate thing indeed! Keep up the good work!
Looks like a brand new one
👍
great job i have a drill doctor for about 10 years and until now never had dull drill bit and it even does concrete bits and broken drill bits it puts a point back om them
I've heard of those but never tried one
@@NBSWELDING they work great I build bbq pits always drilling holes on 1/4 steel it saves time and money
Thanks!
Wow thank you!
Tough job. requires cool head and whole lotta patience and skill.
Was glad to do it for him 👍
Very impressive! So glad that transmission took the 7018!
That was an extremely good job. I have no idea what kind of metal the transmission housing was but I know if I tried that there would been gear oil on the floor and one totally screwed up tractor. The bolt removal was very good too. The owner of that tractor was very lucky in find you to make this repair.
Fantastic job as usual! Thanks for taking the time to share this with us.. Much appreciated.. As usual, I learn from your videos.
Great project and I learned a lot about your thought process to make this repair. Awesome job! Thank you.
After such a difficult repair, you should be considered a Ninja and Jedi Master.
I had an idea that is probably dumb but could you have put a threaded stud in the broken hole and welded it in with nickel.
Welding on a stud removes the studs temper and makes it very weak...bolts, studs, or chain links that have been welded on are not as strong as they were originally
I said I thought is was probably a dumb idea
Cool to see the thread repair
👍
I watch all your videos, not that I’m calling you old , but you’re just a smart old dude. Remind me so much of all the people that have taught me along my way in life, would be awesome to work with you one day
I have not watched the whole video because I came across it late Friday night, but when I first saw the damage, I thought to myself that it's a "total" in terms of the damage, and then you made the same comment at just over 7:00 minutes into the vid. So I'm looking forward to seeing what you do with this mess- and that's what it is, a MESS. But I can't wait to see you work your magic.
A real nice save there for the ole boy. Thanks for the videos.
Heat, The Oil Inside the Housing would Help Regulate the Temp of the Base metal a bit as well.
Great job again. I had to drill a hole that was welded with nickel rod in a water pump hole on a small block 400. I ended up setting the engine in a drill press, and drilled the hole with a burr bit, and somehow got it tapped. A royal pain in the butt. Got it done, but that sucked. Thank you for bringing back a memory from the early 90’s.
Very explicit thought process & fabrication... Thanks! From a Quebecer up north...
Nice stuff! I was thinking about a stud in the casting broken out and nickel rod together. Hopefully the bracket could fit back? Very cool video. No $h!t too 😅
The heat applied from welding on a stud will remove the temper of the stud and make it very weak
@@NBSWELDING excellent point sir. I could not make such a nice weld as you have done for sure. I appreciate your insight and knowledge. Thank you.
Fantastic
Thanks
good channel. thorough mechanic. fortunate customers
Thanks
Well done CB! I've heard of & used the grinder/spark test.....but that's the first I've heard of cutting it to test with O/A; will definitely remember that one. 7018 is some awesome rod, & undoubtedly stronger than the original. Glad it worked!
I've had this very same repair. It is common for these bolts to come loose. LOTS to be done, and good work on your behave. 👍
Love your videos and I learned so much from watching you! Keep up the good work!
excellent job as always ..., using the Loctite, assemble everything so it doesn't move and then loctite each bolt one at a time
Good idea
Beautiful job 😍😍😍😍😍😍
Thank you! 😊
I have some Cobalt drill bits and they are so much better than the standard but they aren't cheap.
Fantastic video
Blessings Brother. My Momma used to say "Stay within your station"! That applies to machines too. I wonder if the Good 'Ol Boy wasn't taxing the machine in ways beyond its designed limits. Just saying.
Don't know what it won't do until ya find out
This is a reminder for the annual look over to see if frame bolts, draw bar and lug nuts are tight. We forget. But with all but one coming loose, th dealer's install played a part in this failure. Almost like they forgot to torque that side.
Perfect as usual.
Wow, thank you!
I would have cut a new front plate bolted it in place and tacked the rest of the bracket to it. Seems simpler than welding all those little fatigued pieces back together
There are lots more version of thread locker than just red and blue. If you're worried about time use an anaerobic thread locker
What your suggesting would take alot more work than what I did with no improvement in outcome...making a new plate involves much more cutting and drilling time than I spent welding
The "other " option is to weld a stud in the hole " if" you can attach loader back on no clearance issues, an weld with nickel or 7018 save the drillng time,, an attach loader back on with nut an lock washer , some dosing on my part
Welding studs damages the heat treatment of the stud and once you destroy the temper by welding on it the stud is much weaker....welded studs or chain links that have been welded on have no where near the strength they originally had
Such a great job done on this wee tractor CB.
I have a question. Can you explain why we pein the weld after each small pass? I was told this was to prevent the weld from cracking.
When you peen the hot metal you are causing it to expand into the steel that you just welded it to....that helps to fight against the force of the shrinking it is trying to do as it cools which could pull the weld away from the base metal....so yes it absolutely can help prevent cracking
@NBSWELDING Ok awesome! So you using the needle scaler would have had a positive effect on the outcome of this weld repair. The last one I did I did by hand and it was a slow process. I now have a needle scaler. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge.
seems like straight cast iron would have been a bad design choice for that casting.
I know this sounds simplistic, why not use quality lockwashers or star washers on the bolts? They're tightening against the flat steel of the brackets which seem to be a nice flat, true surface to bite into. And like you've stated, won't be a bear to deal with in the future?
I've not ever been impressed with lockwashers...I've actually had things come loose because of the failure of a lockwasher...they also make bolts longer and a shorter bolt is stronger
There you go CB! Good job. These are the kind of jobs that I seem to get on a pretty regular basis. Not to be ornery but, given that all of this carnage is just below the engine oil filter and that it didn’t just happen overnight, in one instant event; how do you not see what’s fixing to happen while servicing the tractor? Oh wait, I know…, he’s NOT servicing the tractor 🤷🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️🤬!
The stress of using the bucket (ramming, digging, and prying) caused flexing of the loader frame and it worked the bolts out.
This happens often with these light duty machines. They're not designed for this kind of abuse.
If you would've red locktighted or barred the bolts, the stresses will build until the next weakest link would break. Probably the case.
This customer needs a heavier duty machine like a skid steer.
Bolts like these need to be checked yearly. But you could be right, i didn't realize how small the tractor was till he was knelt beside it and zoomed out.
Given how it broke and the difficulty getting the bolts to line up, wouldn't surprise me if that loader bracket is warped.
Weld a stud into that broken hole...then you can nickel arc weld it solid and they can put a nut there??
🇨🇦🤓🤟
If you weld on a stud the heat will remove the temper of the stud and make it very weak...I wouldn't recommend doing that
@@NBSWELDING
👍
For the bolt hole with the missing chunk, was there an option to the plug the hole with a carbon or copper rod and weld around the rod to build it up? Then remove the rod and tap the hole?
You won't get the exact size hole that you can tap by doing that...a good tapped hole must be machined by drilling
👍
👍
CB, have you ever tried laser welding?
No....never have
CB, I’ve seen you do more with stick wire than most guys could do if they were given their choice of any process. But do you own any machines that run solid or flux cored wire. Just curious! I know if it ain’t broke don’t fix it
I use both solid and flux core wire quite often and I have several machines that do both processes
Whom ever owns that tractor needs to be taught how to tighten bolts.
I'm sure he was unaware that they were coming loose or he would have took care of it
Would you say that your Kubota is a superior machine compared with this Mahindra?
I love my Kubota and I'm impressed with the engineering on it...I've never had or ran a Mahindra much
3:30 beginning of the failure....nope
Beginning failure is.....
china made...
foreign made... not made to last no more....
40's/50's/60's/70's USA made
or Canada made.
Very very unlikely This problem would not of developed.😁
For me I would make fold over locks so the bolts would not come undone again.
Great job as always good to see you had time to make a video 👍👍
@@Look_What_You_Did🤣🤣pos how do u know if I...
😎
👍
good save.........the dealer would have tried to sell a new machine.
Screw a stud in and weld it solid instead of repairing for a bolt
Welding on a stud removes the temper of it and makes it weak and prone to breaking...I wouldn't recommend doing that
BUTTERING , NICKEL THEN mig on top but you need to heat first lol
👍
👍🏻
Where there's a bolt there's a way.
👌🏻👍🏻🤘🏼
How's the other side??? Ha ha ha 😅
Well hello
Fast forward to about 19 minutes if you actually want to see something get done....
Is it just me or does he just beat a dead horse all the time over explaining things? Repeating it??
I do repeat myself...sorry about that
I agree with you, you gotta be a jack-of-all-trades to do something like this repair. I'm alot like that too, except for the welding\machining experience. I don't doubt for a minute that you're the man(Ninja) for this project!👍🏻👌🏻🛠️🔧🔩🚜
This is also why its a great idea that you wanna go around and check all the brackets, nuts, bolts, and such on your machines from time to time looking for loose or broken stuff! These 17 bolts didn't fall out in one day of use. I get it though, you get to working at a steady pace and don't notice a bolt or 2 falls off, gets pressed into mud\dirt pile\hole, never to be seen again. These things do happen from time to time, especially on a tractor that vibrates like I'm sure this one does well. This is where the old (red or blue?)Locktite comes into play to prevent bolts from backing out of their holes...ever, from vibration! Don't forget the Locktite when putting these accessories onto your tractor or anything else, and torque to manufacturers specifications to reduce chances of them falling out like this. If theres no nylock nut, or lock washer definitely use a lil blue Loctite to prevent fasteners from backing out & potentially wreaking havoc inside something that will cause permanent catastrophic damage when the bolt or nut goes through a set of gears, a chain, or something even worse. This is the reason why they tell you to re-torque your new wheels after 50 -100 miles, cause they will probably need a little tightening up after some vibration, several heat up\cool down phases, etc. Stay safe & check dem nuts! 🤔👍🏻👌🏻🛠️🔧🗜️📏🔩🔧🔩⚙️✔️✅✔️
15:14 Wow I almost forgot how yellow those old incandescent light bulb 'drop lights' are! They're becoming rarer by the day with all of the LED 'light bulbs' on everything nowadays which are a much whiter light(temperature). It's hard to even find them at the stores anymore, because they're getting outlawed in many places, replaced by CFL, & LED's. Even some of the [worklight]halogen bulbs are getting harder to find now. 💡🔦🕯️
Surprised to see you stick weld instead of using mig torch. Usually I always see everyone doing this broken bolt extraction with MIG wire cause its finer. I guess they both have their pros & cons. You can see more with stick, the mig torch blocks some of what you can see but wire sticking out is easier to get on to smaller diameter bolt\holes. You're just a ninja with whatever you use & I love watching the Master. Learn to work with what you got then you always have what you need! (I think I got that right!?)🤔😀😂😂👍🏻
Have you ever heard, seen or done one of these extractions that were so deep you need to use a copper tube in the hole to prevent fusing bolt to threads & surface? I remember seeing someone on YT doing it that way before, but can't seem to find it now. ->Put the small diameter copper tube into the hole, build up weld slowly to get up above surface so you can get the nut &\or washer stuck to the snapped stud. Copper tube just prevents sticking the wrong stuff together inside hole.
Carry on Sensei! 👍🏻
CB thanks for the no music on this one. I'm really not a fan of the music as you know. 😅😂
I've built them up pretty deep without any copper tube
Right on
And another win for the 7018…🫡
Did ya give any thought to simply converting that one hole into a stud? Insert a threaded rod into what remained of the threads and then do your build-up of the housing while welding the stud in place with the nickel rod. Just a thought. 😁
When you weld on a stud the heat will remove its temper and can make it every weak...a bolt, stud, or chain link that has been welded on is no where near as strong as it once was