Really enjoyed this one! Maybe try a tall vs short climber for a future video (and more elimination). Also, more Holly in future videos. She's got a really clean climbing style.
Also agree on all points. I use my tiny height as an excuse far too much, would be really cool to see someone show me how they compensate with technique! Holly's static style was inspiring to watch, really interesting. It seemed she used less muscle as a result, always good to do!
@@DeShark88 static means you have to use muscles for longer so you need more muscular endurance. Dynamic means you need explosiveness/power which means you use fast twich muscle fibres.
both are great. i prefer static climbing, since i'm a bit more heavyset so dynamic moves are tougher for me, and more taxing on my body. but they definitely have their place. i've encountered a fair number of problems where i couldn't get past a certain point statically, but was able to in a dynamic move.
Good comparison, definitely not the same climbing styles and perfect video to show the differences. Agree they should set routes for each other and encourage the other to cross train in each other’s styles.
I'm a static climber and thr guy I usually partner with is Dynamic. Only difference is those two really respect eachother's styles and my partner constantly teases me about not being strong enough to climb dynamic.
Sophie Bauman Maybe you should tell him that climbing static actually takes more power than climbing dynamic.. it takes way more body control at least.
if it's harmless teasing and you tease him back and that's your dynamic, then that's ok. but if he's taking it too far or if it offends you (no shame in admitting that) and you tell him to stop and he doesn't respect that, find someone else. no point in being upset when you should be having fun.
if it's harmless teasing and you tease him back and that's your dynamic, then that's ok. but if he's taking it too far or if it offends you (no shame in admitting that) and you tell him to stop and he doesn't respect that, find someone else. no point in being upset when you should be having fun.
Throughout my climbing I've become a more dynamic climber. Combine it with balance and you just save so much energy. It requires a lot of coordination but there are a few tricks which can make it easier. Especially with the run & jump problems I always see people look at the handhold they're going for, miss the foothold completely and just faceplant. The key here is to look at your feet, get them planted and then your hands will automatically follow. However, some climbs are just meant to be done statically, but using a dynamic style where possible is definitely a good thing.
Drinkyoghurt I generally try statically; however, lately I’ve found that I loose all my energy and can never reach the final hold of a puzzle if it is more than one meter away (although that could be due to me being a small skinny weakling). Do you have any tips on how to convert? 😊
I know it's been a year. But how important are the grades of the routes? I'm just a noob having fun and playing in the gym. Should it concern me at this point?
vaporTrail not really cuz sometimes you might look at route with a high rating and not even consider trying it but without rating you an just find routes that look fun and send it
what i learn from this is that it is a good idea to practice both dyno and static climbing because you can be in situations where both methods are needed
It seems like, for pound-for-pound Holly might be stronger and more flexible, but because of the guy's speed, explosiveness, I think finger strength (maybe) and knowledge of the routes he was a bit better at completing them without as much effort. It was an awesome video. Also, note how he swings a lot more, it seems to me he has a really good grasp on controlling momentum to help him, I think that's the difference between the style and when it's necessary, definitely the amount of momentum increases the more dynamic you become, being purely dynamic or static would be wastes of energy in various situations, so for people who like the look of dynamic, it isn't the best, and nor is just static.
I find you really need a combination of both. Dynamic works in situations where you will be changing direction, or changing your the location of your center of weight, because usually their is a lot of movement involved in those changes, and it puts you more into a mindset of managing your momentum, Static in those situations makes you use energy directly to control and deny the momentum that is part of such a transition.
im def a mix of both, all really depends on what you’re climbing. personally, I find dynamic more useful for harder bouldering, but I’ve definitely had my fair share of boulders where I can’t do it without a static style
I've been climbing for 12 years now and I have to say that even though the dynamic moves are cooler to watch, you are much more prone to injury, especially in your shoulders. Additionally working on core strength, body tension and technique will serve you much more than purely training power. Great video though!
I find myself using static climbing methods most often. I see the merit of both being useful for particular climbs. I can see where each climber has there own style and each of us can improve by trying new techniques. The static way certain builds balance strength and flexibility, Dynamic or as John Gill calls them “free aerials" can be great for saving strength, creating precision gymnastic ‘release’ and ‘regrasp’.
As a new climber (5.10 b/c), I find climbing dynamically easier because I have been lifting weights and have a fairly high strength to weight ratio. As my balance / core has been improving, I have been making more static moves. I think it kind of depends on what you're climbing too
nice contrasts! Static is more aesthetically pleasing b/c you see how the body needs to flow or contort to reach the holds that sometimes aren't obvious to the untrained eye (me lol).
If I find a route I can flash dynamically (or vice versa) I like to look for more static solutions. I think people tend to climb more static on trad gear because it feels safer to do so. So I to think practicing doing the same moves in both styles is helpful for me.
WAZZZZZAPpeeps4 sometimes you need to do one or the other. If you’re short you may need to use dynamic moves to reach some holds, for example. And if there aren’t any good holds it pays to go static, as taking out the good hold on the last climb did.
I think they were just a bit spooked when the camera got pulled out so they started 'acting natural' and then decided to move off-frame so they don't get filmed while climbing
Newbie here, I can say I have a static style based on this, hopefully I can learn how to do those pretty climbs, that dynamic climbers in the gym do. It just looks so finesse and beautiful 🥰
I’ve never climbed before. I have zero knowledge or skill. I feel like static is good practice for outdoor climbing while dynamic is for indoor “I can see all my possible holds” climbing. Static seems to be much more careful (as you would, I assume, with climbing outdoors.)
never climbed before in my life but love this. is static 'safer'? having seen 'free solo' - in that sort of thing surely you don't want to be dynamic in case you miss a catch...
8:16 What is the deal wit the guy in the background on the right shoving himself under the wall? Is that like a thing you do in this specific gym or is he just a bit crazy? :D
It seems like static leans more towards technique and you need to be more flexible, while Dynamic seems more explosive, just trusting your strength. So, it would seem to me more girls use Static than guys because they usually are more flexible and maybe less used to jumping around, but it could go either way. Thoughts?
That first climb only looked 'easier' dynamically because he is twice her height... if you stretched out the length between the holds then he couldn't have done it like that
06:50 That was realy smooth, wow. I have to say while I´m in completly in between, I personaly respect her style much more. It just requires more training and sometimes a tougher body.
I really want to get into indoor bouldering, but............................virus won't allow people to open without weird restrictions. Damn shame. Maybe in 5 years when all the panic dies down.
@@BoulderingBobat Hey, sorry for the late reply. I live in Seattle, and although the gyms are open, there are a lot of strange stipulations in place because of the virus. So, I was thinking of waiting out the fear, let it pass, then find a proper gym
Dynamic climbing looks definitely cooler. However, for new routes, static climbing looks a bit more safer, as it allows you to study the route a bit more. ))
Hey is there a name for what they're doing with their foot work where they have each place the back of their left foot on the volume as at 7:13 & 7:57 as a kind of anchor? I've seen people do this lots of times at walls and just wondered if it had a name / so I can look into it a bit more as I'm struggling to do it myself atm.
Hm. So static is about constantly being secured on something, and dynamic is about using momentum to avoid bits where having constant grounding would be awkward? That's what it seems like at least, I don't climb and my knowledge about it is very minimal.
can we do this series again but see how it is “supposed” to be dynamically climbed and how holly statically breaks the beta?! because her attempts are so intriguing.
Looked like climbing yoga vs climbing parkour. Awesome video.
that’s a perfect way to describe it!
nailed this analogy.
i like that comparison
Really enjoyed this one! Maybe try a tall vs short climber for a future video (and more elimination). Also, more Holly in future videos. She's got a really clean climbing style.
Agree with all of this
Also agree on all points. I use my tiny height as an excuse far too much, would be really cool to see someone show me how they compensate with technique!
Holly's static style was inspiring to watch, really interesting. It seemed she used less muscle as a result, always good to do!
Nam Tran good idea
@@DeShark88 static means you have to use muscles for longer so you need more muscular endurance. Dynamic means you need explosiveness/power which means you use fast twich muscle fibres.
DeShark88 i also use my height as an excuse a lot
I think that static climbing has a certain control and grace that is rather powerful
I’ve only been climbing a few months off and on and I can tell static is more my style, personal preference I guess
The same argument can be made about dynamic having power and coordination
Both are great. Static is definitely underated. Static, mastering control. Dynamic, mastering coordination. Both complement each other.
What do you mean underrated? Almost everyone climbs static
both are great. i prefer static climbing, since i'm a bit more heavyset so dynamic moves are tougher for me, and more taxing on my body. but they definitely have their place. i've encountered a fair number of problems where i couldn't get past a certain point statically, but was able to in a dynamic move.
Good comparison, definitely not the same climbing styles and perfect video to show the differences. Agree they should set routes for each other and encourage the other to cross train in each other’s styles.
Static vs. Dynamic is like Balance vs. Momentum it seems
I'm a static climber and thr guy I usually partner with is Dynamic. Only difference is those two really respect eachother's styles and my partner constantly teases me about not being strong enough to climb dynamic.
Sophie Bauman Maybe you should tell him that climbing static actually takes more power than climbing dynamic.. it takes way more body control at least.
maybe you should get a new partner that respects you lol hes whack af
if it's harmless teasing and you tease him back and that's your dynamic, then that's ok. but if he's taking it too far or if it offends you (no shame in admitting that) and you tell him to stop and he doesn't respect that, find someone else. no point in being upset when you should be having fun.
if it's harmless teasing and you tease him back and that's your dynamic, then that's ok. but if he's taking it too far or if it offends you (no shame in admitting that) and you tell him to stop and he doesn't respect that, find someone else. no point in being upset when you should be having fun.
Imo static is more demanding in technique and endurance
Throughout my climbing I've become a more dynamic climber. Combine it with balance and you just save so much energy. It requires a lot of coordination but there are a few tricks which can make it easier. Especially with the run & jump problems I always see people look at the handhold they're going for, miss the foothold completely and just faceplant. The key here is to look at your feet, get them planted and then your hands will automatically follow.
However, some climbs are just meant to be done statically, but using a dynamic style where possible is definitely a good thing.
Drinkyoghurt I generally try statically; however, lately I’ve found that I loose all my energy and can never reach the final hold of a puzzle if it is more than one meter away (although that could be due to me being a small skinny weakling). Do you have any tips on how to convert? 😊
Holly's great, love watching her climb
This was a super cool video idea! Maybe in the future put the grades of the routes in the corner as people start climbing for reference.
I know it's been a year. But how important are the grades of the routes? I'm just a noob having fun and playing in the gym. Should it concern me at this point?
vaporTrail not really cuz sometimes you might look at route with a high rating and not even consider trying it but without rating you an just find routes that look fun and send it
what i learn from this is that it is a good idea to practice both dyno and static climbing because you can be in situations where both methods are needed
Dynamic climbing looks cooler than static, but I have much more respect for static technique.
Both are good both are equally hard. It only depends on your pros and cons and the wall that you try to climb.
To me, static climbing looks more graceful whereas dynamic looks more all over the place.
@@philippebaillargeon5204 That can't be true for very tall climbers.
A comment like that is enough to make one wonder what you think "respect" means
jonpwoodward very well said
It seems like, for pound-for-pound Holly might be stronger and more flexible, but because of the guy's speed, explosiveness, I think finger strength (maybe) and knowledge of the routes he was a bit better at completing them without as much effort. It was an awesome video.
Also, note how he swings a lot more, it seems to me he has a really good grasp on controlling momentum to help him, I think that's the difference between the style and when it's necessary, definitely the amount of momentum increases the more dynamic you become, being purely dynamic or static would be wastes of energy in various situations, so for people who like the look of dynamic, it isn't the best, and nor is just static.
I find you really need a combination of both. Dynamic works in situations where you will be changing direction, or changing your the location of your center of weight, because usually their is a lot of movement involved in those changes, and it puts you more into a mindset of managing your momentum, Static in those situations makes you use energy directly to control and deny the momentum that is part of such a transition.
Also, cheeky little knob scratch at 6.34.
It all depends on the climb. A good climber knows when to climb dynamic and when to climb static. And sometimes just POOOWER is the answer!!
im def a mix of both, all really depends on what you’re climbing. personally, I find dynamic more useful for harder bouldering, but I’ve definitely had my fair share of boulders where I can’t do it without a static style
(for reference, the “harder boulders” are the ones that are very spread out, it all varies with what gym you’re at)
Was amazing to be here on Saturday and to have had my son's t-shirt signed by all the team I can not thank you enough
Liam Reid
So happy you liked it man! Keep on climbing and let us know next time you come down to london :)
It's great that they tried each others style. It pointed out that none of them is easier. They're good because they practiced their own way.
'Who taught you to do this stuff??'
'YOU!!! I learned it from watching you!!!'
Awesome bg tune!!!
I've been climbing for 12 years now and I have to say that even though the dynamic moves are cooler to watch, you are much more prone to injury, especially in your shoulders. Additionally working on core strength, body tension and technique will serve you much more than purely training power. Great video though!
Very new climber, IMO the static looks really clean and precise
holly has such fine balance
bet she got a fine ass too, sorry couldn't hold back
She is so graceful!!
More Holly! It was really fun to watch them both climb.
This was super awesome as a beginner, I didnt understand the big differences in the two applications but I see now im more dynamic.
@Max Masteller apply
I find myself using static climbing methods most often. I see the merit of both being useful for particular climbs. I can see where each climber has there own style and each of us can improve by trying new techniques. The static way certain builds balance strength and flexibility, Dynamic or as John Gill calls them “free aerials" can be great for saving strength, creating precision gymnastic ‘release’ and ‘regrasp’.
Thank you so much for your vids! I just started climbing, so these are super-useful!
As a new climber (5.10 b/c), I find climbing dynamically easier because I have been lifting weights and have a fairly high strength to weight ratio. As my balance / core has been improving, I have been making more static moves. I think it kind of depends on what you're climbing too
You kick ass holly, no need to be nervous :)
Loved watching this, makes me crave climbing and people to do it with.
Really enjoyed seeing the different styles, helps with the learning process. Thanks guys. Awesome content.
Brilliant videos... One of the best yet!
I knew this place looked familiar! The arch is the first place I ever went bouldering :)
nice contrasts! Static is more aesthetically pleasing b/c you see how the body needs to flow or contort to reach the holds that sometimes aren't obvious to the untrained eye (me lol).
Great video! More of these videos would be awesome!
If I find a route I can flash dynamically (or vice versa) I like to look for more static solutions. I think people tend to climb more static on trad gear because it feels safer to do so. So I to think practicing doing the same moves in both styles is helpful for me.
I love how this shows how different styles work for different people!
It’s so interesting to see this because it seems like a natural mindset that decides what style you feel comfortable with
WAZZZZZAPpeeps4 sometimes you need to do one or the other. If you’re short you may need to use dynamic moves to reach some holds, for example. And if there aren’t any good holds it pays to go static, as taking out the good hold on the last climb did.
Great music for this! Really makes me want to climb.
Holly looks wonderful! Hope we see her again!
6:32 guys at the back checking her out 😂😂😂
They are definitely just looking at the camera...
I think they were just a bit spooked when the camera got pulled out so they started 'acting natural' and then decided to move off-frame so they don't get filmed while climbing
I love watching Holly climb! So controlled
I would love watching more static climbing.
Newbie here, I can say I have a static style based on this, hopefully I can learn how to do those pretty climbs, that dynamic climbers in the gym do. It just looks so finesse and beautiful 🥰
quality video, and I like the music...
She did a great job. really unique way of climbing, insisting on static climbing everything almost. graceful af dude.
I’ve never climbed before. I have zero knowledge or skill. I feel like static is good practice for outdoor climbing while dynamic is for indoor “I can see all my possible holds” climbing. Static seems to be much more careful (as you would, I assume, with climbing outdoors.)
OMG thanks for the video. There was exactly a line I realized I could try to dyno with after watching this video.
10:33
"How was your first video Holly?"
"(mouths) it was......................." *NODS*
"Cool!"
never climbed before in my life but love this. is static 'safer'? having seen 'free solo' - in that sort of thing surely you don't want to be dynamic in case you miss a catch...
Great vid. Enjoy these two alot
what is the guy at 8:30 doing?XD
honestly i have like a lil of both
my hands r sweatin just watching this video
This was pretty awesome :D
Possibly my favourite video. Defo want to see more holly.
Good video, interesting! I think that a good static and dynamic mix is the better way to solve problems
I'm a static climber (and kind of new) but I would love to be dynamic)
Really interesting and cool as always!
8:16 What is the deal wit the guy in the background on the right shoving himself under the wall? Is that like a thing you do in this specific gym or is he just a bit crazy? :D
I think he's working on fixing / modifying the wall :)
I train static. Dynamic is cool and all... If you never plan on climbing on a real mountian
i feel it would be a good cardio exercise
I rock climb at earth treks and I’m on the team and it’s amazing ❤️🧗♂️🧗♀️
It seems like static leans more towards technique and you need to be more flexible, while
Dynamic seems more explosive, just trusting your strength. So, it would seem to me more girls use
Static than guys because they usually are more flexible and maybe less used to jumping around, but it could go either way. Thoughts?
That first climb only looked 'easier' dynamically because he is twice her height... if you stretched out the length between the holds then he couldn't have done it like that
Johnny Joseph assuming she is ~5’5” and he is twice her height. He is the shortest 11’ tall man I’ve ever seen.
I would like to see more videos like this, static vs dynamic.
06:50 That was realy smooth, wow.
I have to say while I´m in completly in between, I personaly respect her style much more. It just requires more training and sometimes a tougher body.
One of my favorite Bobat videos. Possibly my 3rd or 4th time watching. Realized I never gave it a like. TH-cam obviously wanted me to right a wrong. 😂
Do you think the yellow one is part of that boulder at 4:22 and 4:53?
This makes me more comfortable finding my own style knowing it's challenging for them to switch their own styles here. If that makes sense lol
This reminds me of my friend and I cause she is super static and I’m super dynamic
I was at Biscuit quite recently and found that green V4 problem relativity easy statically. Although I am 6'2" with an ape index of 4 inches :D
Dynamic climbing while free solo would be really scary
I really want to get into indoor bouldering, but............................virus won't allow people to open without weird restrictions. Damn shame. Maybe in 5 years when all the panic dies down.
That’s sad to hear! Where abouts in the coronaverse are you living? The gyms only opened here about two weeks ago!
@@BoulderingBobat Hey, sorry for the late reply. I live in Seattle, and although the gyms are open, there are a lot of strange stipulations in place because of the virus. So, I was thinking of waiting out the fear, let it pass, then find a proper gym
Oh, how I miss this place 😭😭😭
If they did more route with smaller holds I think the static climber would have shined abit more...no?
9:05 Smooth and awesome/cool move!
Yo thanks I got a tricky blue one today which I had to do partly dynamic. This vid made me think outside the box ✌
It is very beautiful climbing.
Nice music choice, really enjoyed this :)
I used to hateeeee taking my hands off the wall and now I’m totally dynamic
Dynamic climbing looks definitely cooler. However, for new routes, static climbing looks a bit more safer, as it allows you to study the route a bit more. ))
HOW DOES JAKE KEEP WEARING ALL THOSE FREAKIN' CLOTHES INSIDE?!?
damn, thats impressive gotta say
The music in the beginning makes me feel like im in the beach fase of some mario game.
HI HOLLY!
This was a nice video. Not too long that I didn't get sucked into a youtube hole but long enough to eat my sandwhich.
Hey is there a name for what they're doing with their foot work where they have each place the back of their left foot on the volume as at 7:13 & 7:57 as a kind of anchor? I've seen people do this lots of times at walls and just wondered if it had a name / so I can look into it a bit more as I'm struggling to do it myself atm.
as someone stated in a climbing book: isn't about dynamic or static but about momentum :)
Thank you 🙏
Static is so tiring.
My arms get so pumped by the lactic acid by retaining the position for too long.
dudes got height advantage
They should have picked two people same size (and reach) But the difference in style is pretty clear.
Hm. So static is about constantly being secured on something, and dynamic is about using momentum to avoid bits where having constant grounding would be awkward? That's what it seems like at least, I don't climb and my knowledge about it is very minimal.
Would love to go to a climbing gym but my anxiety is a bitch
Love this channel
Great Video and very interesting! Greetings Tom
Brilliant video, loved watching Holly climb, very impressive. Great style!
so..... did jake and holly ever set problems for each other? if not get on it and film it! lol
What’s the song I’m vibin
can we do this series again but see how it is “supposed” to be dynamically climbed and how holly statically breaks the beta?! because her attempts are so intriguing.
Im gonna start climbing