Brother, that was a good one! You’re a comedic genius. When you said, “the top will be facing up…” on the seal… my girlfriend and I almost lost it laughing…
Rob, that was great. I've watched at least half a. dozen videos on this. Yours was included the clearest instruction and the best camera work. Much appreciated!
You'r brave not covering the fuel tank with a thick towel , If it was me I'd defiantly drop a spanner on the tank with horrible consequentness ! Best video I've seen on service. So well explained and fool proofed. Great job. With thanks.
This video is great. I especially appreciate you going over all the necessary tools at the beginning. Not many DIY build channels do that. I literally stopped the video and ordered anything I didn't have off of Amazon, then played the video again. Super useful for my new fork tube/fork spring upgrade to my iron 883. It's pretty straightforward, but it's always good to watch videos like this to pick up tricks and tips. Thanks!
Thank you for having good lighting and not having the camera mounted 45 feet away. I've watched about 10 vids, people pick up all parts at once, beat on and done. I have a box of parts therefore I don't know the order of parts. Great vid.
Thanks for a great video, very helpful, started a youtube channel following my first bobber build, and I could not do it without great how-to videos like this,
Many thanks for this outstanding step-by-step video...got a '92 XLH 1200 that's leaking pretty bad on one side. This guide will help me tremendously. Thank you again and keep up the great work!
Hello, your video is very informative. My 2005 sportster front forks bottoms completely. It doesn't have any leaks, looks completely fine. Can I just take off fork caps, replace springs and oil from top ?? Thanks.
My Softail heritage 93 says the washer needs to be with the flanged side facing up… does that mean the flat side must face down ? What’s the difference between facing it down or up it makes more sense to lay the flat side in the bed of the fork slider than the rounded side. Can anybody share some info into this ? Minute 11:20
Very educational... I have a 2004 V-rod I want to install chrome lower sliders. Are they similar to this video ? Can I do it without removing the shocks from the bike? Seals have all been replaced so I dont intend to go that far.
Great video. Since everything is disassembled it would make sense to replace fork springs if desired and brake pads, especially if they were contaminated with leaking fork oil.
Great fork service video, will be doing my '05 FXDL next weekend. Any trick of the trade or tip to help make the difficult task of getting that fork cap back on the tube a little easier???
Dude, such a good how-to. I'm gonna give it a whirl. Hopefully I don't completely fuck it up haha...I wish I could send in requests for each project I have!
Great Video. Quick question: what is that thin metal string located inside the fork seal itself? And what is its function exactly? I realised my left fork was leaking (Ive recently replaced the seals) and when I opened the cap that string was broken...
That spring is the most important part of the seal, it helps pinch the seal around the tube with equal pressure. With that spring broken you probably had a pretty decent oil leak. If the rubber hasn't been damaged or isn't hard from being old, You might wipe the oil off the fork when parked and not see any more oil until after riding. If the seal rubber is old or damaged, you could wipe the oil off and 30mins later it's back, or over night it's visible on the ground.
@@GrigoriMalikim True, but I just happened to find out the hard way! :d It leaked a fair amount of oil, so I replaced it and its all well and dry atm. I literally took everything off and then back on just for that tiny spring, but it is what it is.. Thanks so much for your reply.
Hello, I have Deuce lowers and need to take them off their current tubes and put them on a different set of tubes, would the process be the same as this?
I had my forks serviced by a shop about 6 months ago. I noticed a month later that there was plenty oil on the tubes from the seals area and also oil leaking from the tops of the forks where they meet the triple tree, was it a bad job or are my tubes shot?
I have a 2003 XLC, ( Seals NOT LEAKING! ) I was just going to change my Oil, Can I drain it by taking off the damper rod bolts, or should I just use the drain plugs? (I thought it might drain easier using the damper rod bolts) I have about 38,000 miles on the bike. Should I put some progressive springs in there, or should the factory ones be OK for a while? What weight oil should I use, 10W or is 15 better. I don't ride real aggressive. Or do you think at 38,000 I would need bushings.
Great video, exactly what I was looking for as a refresher But....how do I know what it the correct amount of oil and weight for a custom application? +10 soft tail forks....any clue?
@@thedewdster Yes, I know that now. Unfortunately, you’d be surprised how many people (just like me) don’t know that. Oil is contained in the lower leg, and that has nothing to do with upper tube length.
In the process of replacing fork seals. I noticed my springs only stick out about a half inch. There was no pressure against the cap. Is that normal? Other than that it's been a pretty simple job. Great video makes the job so much easier.
@@rouserworks the only problem sir is the seal is not made at the threads it's made at the Copper washer that so-called sealant is nothing more than a contaminant and will certainly not help the ceiling process as if that copper washer needed any help you're giving bad information and introducing a contaminant to the system
Practical Experience thank you for your reply. This step is not required, but this is something I do and have been doing for 20 years now. I was taught this practice from a Master Tech at Harley Davidson. Thank you for your input.
@@rouserworks I don't care who taught you that that's wrong and you're not going to find that in any written text I promise you because it's wrong lots of so-called Master's teaching a lot of things that are wrong just because somebody calls himself a master or labeled as a master doesn't mean they know what they're talking about we're doing it correctly I'm here to tell you sir that that seal is made by that copper washer and that thread seal that you're putting on them threads are in no way assisting the seal in fact it's only a contaminant and if you can't see that then you have no idea how a seal is made again I tell you the seal is made at the Copper washer not on the threads why don't you do some technical research and find one technical book that supports your claim you won't find it because it's wrong and introduces contaminants into the system
Ryan, there is no need to bleed any air out of your forks. Just make sure you give ample time fr the new fork oil to settle in the damper rod before you install the fork caps. If you are in a rush you can “cycle” the fork lower up and down to speed up the process of getting the damper rod filled with fork oil.
You need to use the same amount of oil in each 8” over tube as you would in your stock set up. Just check your service manual for the proper amount and weight and apply it to your 8 over set up.
The best how to video. Spent 4 hours looking for a good video. Question where do I place my lift underneath the bike? I dont have enough money for those fancy lifts.
We put the little lift under the lower frame rails. If it is an uneven surface, or the kickstand mount gets in the way you can use a block of wood on top of the lift.
It is always best to use the proper tools, but in a pinch a piece of PVC pipe that is the right diameter will get the job done. Or take it to your local Harley shop.
After having done this procedure, I can say it's very difficult to remove the decorative chrome cap without damaging it. Just buy new ones before you start.
Currently doing this procedure and I can’t get the seal down far enough for the retaining clip. Any tips? I pre oiled it just like the video and have been hammering on it for over an hour. I can see the groove but still need to go down more. Please help🤬😭
Rob, you warned about not installing the replacement components from the bottom of the rod upward because of possible damage from sharp edges, but in your video that appears to be exactly what you did???
good tutorial, but rest assured - removing the bolts for the caliper, if they've never been removed before, is WAY harder than that. Using an impact like he did is smart, but if you dont have access to one, use a cheater bar.
Those forks are very unique. They require special tools and a completely different process. We suggest checking your manual or taking it to a professional Harley shop.
this is by far the best tutorial I've come across on TH-cam! Thank you!
Brother, that was a good one! You’re a comedic genius. When you said, “the top will be facing up…” on the seal… my girlfriend and I almost lost it laughing…
Rob, that was great. I've watched at least half a. dozen videos on this. Yours was included the clearest instruction and the best camera work. Much appreciated!
Clear, concise, no useless banter. Excellent videography. Thanks!
You'r brave not covering the fuel tank with a thick towel , If it was me I'd defiantly drop a spanner on the tank with horrible consequentness ! Best video I've seen on service. So well explained and fool proofed. Great job. With thanks.
You are a bold man to do all these without covering your tank :D
This is the Best fork seal video I’ve seen!
Extremely helpful
My Dyna failed inspection due to a fork seal leak!
Thank You!
This video is great. I especially appreciate you going over all the necessary tools at the beginning. Not many DIY build channels do that. I literally stopped the video and ordered anything I didn't have off of Amazon, then played the video again. Super useful for my new fork tube/fork spring upgrade to my iron 883. It's pretty straightforward, but it's always good to watch videos like this to pick up tricks and tips. Thanks!
Thank you for having good lighting and not having the camera mounted 45 feet away. I've watched about 10 vids, people pick up all parts at once, beat on and done. I have a box of parts therefore I don't know the order of parts. Great vid.
Great vid man thanks! Helps out dudes like me trying to learn about and maintain our bikes on our own.
would there be any reason why the thin bushing would have a problem seating into the fork lower ?
I've been watching a bunch of these. This was truly exceptional. Thanks. I think I can handle this service now.
Best Vid ever on this procedure. Great job man!
The manual says bevel side UP! Other than that and not protecting the paint- good video.
Thanks for a great video, very helpful, started a youtube channel following my first bobber build, and I could not do it without great how-to videos like this,
Doing this next weekend, this video made it look easy
Many thanks for this outstanding step-by-step video...got a '92 XLH 1200 that's leaking pretty bad on one side. This guide will help me tremendously. Thank you again and keep up the great work!
Excellent Video and I have a 2005 FXD with 39MM Saving this one ..
Hello, your video is very informative.
My 2005 sportster front forks bottoms completely. It doesn't have any leaks, looks completely fine.
Can I just take off fork caps, replace springs and oil from top ??
Thanks.
Glad you guys are doing videos again! Keep it up!
Best video tutorial I've seen! Good job bro!
Great Job! Best tutorial on this subject on the net. I learned a great deal!!!!!! Thanks.
great how too...it saved me a lot of heartache..cheers Bud...
My Softail heritage 93 says the washer needs to be with the flanged side facing up… does that mean the flat side must face down ? What’s the difference between facing it down or up it makes more sense to lay the flat side in the bed of the fork slider than the rounded side. Can anybody share some info into this ? Minute 11:20
Very educational... I have a 2004 V-rod I want to install chrome lower sliders. Are they similar to this video ? Can I do it without removing the shocks from the bike? Seals have all been replaced so I dont intend to go that far.
Nice video! Thank you for sharing! Im doing mine now 😊
Nicely done. Making a quality video is harder than it looks.
love it. I'm getting ready to get my forks service done on my FLHTK. And this video gives me the confidence to do it myself.
You guys saved my ass again I do all my own work on my bike but this was always a big ? Thanks again guys!
great tutorial... I'm doing mine soon... I hope the dampener bolt comes off as easy as it did here!
Excellent video, very well done with excellent explanation of each step of the process.
This guy's freaking awesome!
Very good video.
Outstanding teacher and video. Thank you
Please do a series video how to install a 883-1200 kick up kit.
First time in my life i watch 21 minutes vid very carefully ..
i've been putting off redoing my fork seals cause i thought it was gonna be tough. thanks for the info!
Don't look too bad, Right? Good Video.
Great video. Since everything is disassembled it would make sense to replace fork springs if desired and brake pads, especially if they were contaminated with leaking fork oil.
Nice work, thanks for sharing knowledge
Great fork service video, will be doing my '05 FXDL next weekend. Any trick of the trade or tip to help make the difficult task of getting that fork cap back on the tube a little easier???
Try and get above the fork cap (step ladder or the like) and use your body weight to force the spring down as you screw the fork cap into place.
Thanks..great, easy to understand video..what is the correct torque pressure for the pinch bolts etc?
not sure, i'm thinking 30-35 on uppers and 29 on axle
This was an extremely well don video. Thank you so much for sharing. I'm getting ready to do mine as well. I'm subscribed.
How did it go ??
Dude, such a good how-to. I'm gonna give it a whirl. Hopefully I don't completely fuck it up haha...I wish I could send in requests for each project I have!
"Gently tap it in" *proceeds to not so gently bang forks on work bench*. All jokes aside, great video. Thank you!
Excellent video. I have to do this service on my '06..it just started leaking. Keeps me out of the stealership!
Having a tough time with the decorative chrome cap removal, any suggestions?
You can make a seal driver from PVC pipe from the hardware store. Longer then the tube allows you to use a rubber mallet to drive them in.
How far does the upper bushing go into the tube ?Mine only went halfway
Thanks much, Sir. 👍🏽🤠 8/14/23
Fantastic How to. thanks.
Great Video.
Quick question: what is that thin metal string located inside the fork seal itself? And what is its function exactly? I realised my left fork was leaking (Ive recently replaced the seals) and when I opened the cap that string was broken...
That spring is the most important part of the seal, it helps pinch the seal around the tube with equal pressure. With that spring broken you probably had a pretty decent oil leak. If the rubber hasn't been damaged or isn't hard from being old, You might wipe the oil off the fork when parked and not see any more oil until after riding. If the seal rubber is old or damaged, you could wipe the oil off and 30mins later it's back, or over night it's visible on the ground.
@@GrigoriMalikim True, but I just happened to find out the hard way! :d
It leaked a fair amount of oil, so I replaced it and its all well and dry atm. I literally took everything off and then back on just for that tiny spring, but it is what it is..
Thanks so much for your reply.
Great series.
I wonder if I could put some tape over the bottom of leg and slide new parts on? Do you think it would be an issue?
Great informative video and presentation .... thanks...
What about the springs on in the forks ?? Don’t You Have To Change The Springs Also ??
Great video nice and clearly
Thank you
Nice video. But you didn't mention the nylon damper tube rings that go onto the damper tubes. At least on my 1994 Hugger there is one.
Hello, I have Deuce lowers and need to take them off their current tubes and put them on a different set of tubes, would the process be the same as this?
very good video, followed step by step, buy the seal tool Amazon 25.00 also on newer dynas takes a 12 mm long hex socket.
I had my forks serviced by a shop about 6 months ago. I noticed a month later that there was plenty oil on the tubes from the seals area and also oil leaking from the tops of the forks where they meet the triple tree, was it a bad job or are my tubes shot?
Thanks for your input. Enjoyed muchly 👍🏻
Great vid 👌
Nice job. Thanks!
I have a 2003 XLC, ( Seals NOT LEAKING! ) I was just going to change my Oil, Can I drain it by taking off the damper rod bolts, or should I just use the drain plugs? (I thought it might drain easier using the damper rod bolts)
I have about 38,000 miles on the bike.
Should I put some progressive springs in there, or should the factory ones be OK for a while?
What weight oil should I use, 10W or is 15 better. I don't ride real aggressive.
Or do you think at 38,000 I would need bushings.
Well done!
Great job bud. Rock on!
Did it really take 2 hours to get the cap on? If so, what's the trick or is it just perseverance. Thx
Great video, exactly what I was looking for as a refresher
But....how do I know what it the correct amount of oil and weight for a custom application? +10 soft tail forks....any clue?
Fork oil amount does not change with longer tubes.
@@thedewdster
Yes, I know that now. Unfortunately, you’d be surprised how many people (just like me) don’t know that.
Oil is contained in the lower leg, and that has nothing to do with upper tube length.
very good explanation I like very much.
In the process of replacing fork seals. I noticed my springs only stick out about a half inch. There was no pressure against the cap. Is that normal? Other than that it's been a pretty simple job. Great video makes the job so much easier.
Nice video but I don't get the pipe dope isn't the seal made at the Copper washer
It’s just one of those “tricks” I learned from the Master Mechanic that I worked under. Think of it as extra insurance, but it is not mandatory.
@@rouserworks the only problem sir is the seal is not made at the threads it's made at the Copper washer that so-called sealant is nothing more than a contaminant and will certainly not help the ceiling process as if that copper washer needed any help you're giving bad information and introducing a contaminant to the system
Practical Experience thank you for your reply. This step is not required, but this is something I do and have been doing for 20 years now. I was taught this practice from a Master Tech at Harley Davidson. Thank you for your input.
@@rouserworks I don't care who taught you that that's wrong and you're not going to find that in any written text I promise you because it's wrong lots of so-called Master's teaching a lot of things that are wrong just because somebody calls himself a master or labeled as a master doesn't mean they know what they're talking about we're doing it correctly I'm here to tell you sir that that seal is made by that copper washer and that thread seal that you're putting on them threads are in no way assisting the seal in fact it's only a contaminant and if you can't see that then you have no idea how a seal is made again I tell you the seal is made at the Copper washer not on the threads why don't you do some technical research and find one technical book that supports your claim you won't find it because it's wrong and introduces contaminants into the system
why did you need pump the tube when fill it with fluid to release air from it.
How do you bleed the air out? Isn’t that critical? Or do you just slap it together and roll lol.
Ryan, there is no need to bleed any air out of your forks. Just make sure you give ample time fr the new fork oil to settle in the damper rod before you install the fork caps. If you are in a rush you can “cycle” the fork lower up and down to speed up the process of getting the damper rod filled with fork oil.
He doesn't know what he's doing someone will get killed doing this.
Great video!
If I’m running 8 over on my sportster how much oil do I need
You need to use the same amount of oil in each 8” over tube as you would in your stock set up. Just check your service manual for the proper amount and weight and apply it to your 8 over set up.
What was the size of the fork cap socket?
The best how to video. Spent 4 hours looking for a good video. Question where do I place my lift underneath the bike? I dont have enough money for those fancy lifts.
We put the little lift under the lower frame rails. If it is an uneven surface, or the kickstand mount gets in the way you can use a block of wood on top of the lift.
Awesome and detailed video! Do you know of the process is pretty similar to an 2018 FXBB? About to rebuild both seals on mine.
I’m looking for the same thing. Did you find any info? If so, where?
I'm sure it's similar. It's just a spring loaded dampener rod in a tube full of oil. How hard could it be
How many ounces of fluid for 39mm forks?
420
wow great video
Why do you take the top off?
Well done sir, thank you.
if i don't have a fork seal driver, can i substitute something for it or is imperative that i use one?
It is always best to use the proper tools, but in a pinch a piece of PVC pipe that is the right diameter will get the job done. Or take it to your local Harley shop.
@@BiltwellCycleParts awesome, thank you.
After having done this procedure, I can say it's very difficult to remove the decorative chrome cap without damaging it. Just buy new ones before you start.
Good pro tip! They are pretty thin chrome plated metal. Easy to damage.
Get the right size and style of punch. A cheap larger size punch will definitely get save you the replacement
Did u invent the shake weight? 😂nice videos thanks so much man
Thanks - clear as glass! :-)
Currently doing this procedure and I can’t get the seal down far enough for the retaining clip. Any tips? I pre oiled it just like the video and have been hammering on it for over an hour. I can see the groove but still need to go down more. Please help🤬😭
If you see the groove, you're down far enough. The clip is only as wide as the groove.
Rob, you warned about not installing the replacement components from the bottom of the rod upward because of possible damage from sharp edges, but in your video that appears to be exactly what you did???
Are 49mm dyna forks basically the same process other then the torque specs?
A non cartridge 49mm front end should be the same process. If you have a cartridge front end its a completely different deal.
Why didn’t he say what the torque specs were????
Baby blanket over the tank. One slip of the tool and ding city.
Always cover the tank with towel or something
Learned that spring part the hard way lol
Good video right on point
My dampening rod cap is jammed in the lower fork. Not sure how to get it out, or if it even matters. Anyone else have a similar issue or any advice?
Is the HD Roadster 1200 xc the same forks as these?
These are not the same forks as the hd roadster. The roadster ( if it is stock ) has inverted forks which is a different process.
Thank you so much for replying. I'll look into it some more and yes they are inverted forks
Thanks !
Awesome video. As good or better than Fix my Hog Videos!
good tutorial, but rest assured - removing the bolts for the caliper, if they've never been removed before, is WAY harder than that. Using an impact like he did is smart, but if you dont have access to one, use a cheater bar.
what about the 39mm Sportster S? those are cartridge forks
Those forks are very unique. They require special tools and a completely different process. We suggest checking your manual or taking it to a professional Harley shop.
Great vidyo