Great instructional video Mike. I really appreciated the care you took to not scratch it, right down to the cardboard wedge trick, & the brass jawed, cloth-covered vice. The chronological order of disassembly, really helps the flow on reassembly again too! Bravo guys and thanks.
I came here to finally arrive on a great instructional video to replace my fork seals! I have to say a great instructor whose goes into great detail and a awesome camera man capturing all the angles. I will absolutely stop back by your garage for more help! Liked and subscribed!
Great tip on using the wood chisel to spread clamps. A lot different changing fork seal on that style than on a early wide glide front ends. Keep up the good work brother!
Thanks so much for this video. I live in rural Texas , and there's no shops within an hour of my place. So doing it myself is pretty much the norm. Gonna tackle this project on my 99 Dyna Super Glide Sport this weekend. That front end has gotten really spongey.
Great video, fantastic, close-up camera angles, very clear. I have to pull my forks on my 2020 Triglide 49 mm forks and install an intimidator valve just above the dampening rod, then set the spring on top of that and then put it back together. Won’t be doing the full tear down. I have watched a few videos, and yours is the best.
hey hi Mike's I'm glad I found your u tube channel just in time I'm gonna change out the seals on forks on my Dyna got a leak after 3300 miles ride ,Alot of very helpful Info will keep Fav subscribe's
FYI, those are variable rate springs. The closer a spring is wound the softer the spring so that on a smooth road the soft end of the spring is activated but when rougher conditions are encountered the stiffer part of the spring is engaged. So the softer part of the spring should butt up against the active part of the leg. Understanding how things work helps me to assemble things correctly. Another excellent video my friend.
I worked in a independent shop made a tool for seals out of plastic pipe tee so it would have a handle an drove seals in with it. Cheaper than store bought seal driver.
I pretty much do it exactly the way you do it Mike. The one thing I do different is I just snug the tubes in at the end ,I do the measurement at the top when I slide them up but I don't torque yet. I wait until I get the wheel on the bike, or just slide the axle through at the bottom and snug it up, then loosen both sides of the clamps so the left and right tubes will slide up together using the axle to align both tubes to the exact height, I still do the measurement at the top but only on one side because when you push them up together with the axle in place the left has to be exactly as the right. I then snug down both sides then do the final torque. That's just my way of doing it, maybe it's overkill but it's the way I always done it for the last 45 years. Great video as usual. Thanks. LLH&R
Great video man! Here @Buoy4AK we’re on our own on Kodiak Island, Alaska so if we don’t fix it ourselves, it ain’t getting fixed. Needless to say, our 06 FXDBI does more off-roading than most Pan Americas will ever do (@12k, front fork oil is junk). Thanks for the assist brother!
Awesome, thanx my man. Hopefully I'll be doing 3 sets of forks this week including my own. Any other tips or tricks would be greatly appreciated!!! Your videos are very clear and put together very well
I believe the narrow part of spring seats on the dampener, and the wider part of spring seats on the rim of the fortube cap or oil flow restriction purposes
you don't haftoo be a big guy! If you wear your Harley Davidson boots it will give you another 3 inches of height and get more leverage to install cap back on 💪 great video Mike!
Great Videos… you show everything needed for a normal Joe to learn something. Thank you. Heres a question, I have both of my Forks off after installing the seals and they’re ready to reinstall, I noticed you tightened the fork back down without the wheel back on, how do you know its aligned correctly, and how do you align it easily after having them both off? I see some videos about this online, however nobody explains things as thorough in my opinion as you do. I appreciate your time and excellent step by step instruction. Keep them coming 👍🏼
Hi Mike, I have a 2010 Harley dyna 30000 km I have a noise in front of the front fork when there are holes in the road tak, tak, tak, tak 1/ no problem on the brake calipers 2/ no problem on the wheel 3/ no problem on the bearings 4 / no problem on the fork. I changed the fork oil I replaced the front engine mount and still this tak, tak noise, is it possible that it's the front shock absorber springs that are tired? at 30,000 km? Thank you for your reply. JEAN
Always a pleasure seeing a new video from you! Although I own a springer still enjoy watching this done. Where could one get your "See you on the road" air cleaner labels;-) Looking forward to your next video!
@@pacificmike9501 Hello again, Thanks for the reply. I see a whole new side business for you, "See you on the road" labels, tee-shirts, bumper stickers, etc;-) Best wishes to you and thanks for all the video knowledge as greatly appreciated!
Man in my mind this job was going to be a nightmare but your video made it as ease as a paint by numbers project. WOW Great step by step instructions and explanations of what you were doing. I've got my dyna front tubes off and sending them and the lower legs to the powder coater. Any tips for getting there parts powder coated and reinstalling them. Thanks again for your great videos.
mike great video just getting the stuff together to do the 99 road king going to install a legend fork kit upgrade and do my seals i was going to hire someone to do this but it looks pretty simple the bigger job is getting the front of the bike tore down. do you have any videos on head bearing set up ? i have a proper service manual but always nice to see it first thanks !!
Hello Mike, I have watched a few of your videos now and I have enjoyed the content, I am curious though, can you reveal some details about your front wheel chock on your motorcycle lift? looks like some heavy welded angle iron to my eye, a search on your channel didn't reveal you ever having talked about it before, so apologies if it is detailed in a previous video and I've missed it. Thanks in advance for your reply and keep making great videos!
Have you ever done this on a soft tail deuce? The configuration of the top of the fork is different than the one in the video. The spring does not come out when you take the cap off the top of the upper tube. I looks like you need a special tool to take the inner nut out. Great video.
My tip for not crossing those fine fork cap threads is to push down on the cap with the wrench, very slowly rotate the cap counter clockwise until you hear/feel the little "click" as the threads mate. Then slowly rotate clockwise to start the threads.
When you took the fork cap off, there was a spacer... My 2012 street bob has a spacer as well but it is bent and im wondering where i can get a new one and what i should be looking for
If you're speaking of the long spring spacer, go to your local hardware store. Get a length of 3/4" schedule 30 PVC pipe and cut it to desired length. Clean (deburr) the ends and there it is.
There was not a seal there originally. We'll be putting one into the Flathead. It is the same. The seal that is available to us is made by Colony. It is a great part. This is a modification we do for running a belt drive. Otherwise, no need. We've explained this a number of times when explaining installation of belt drives on early (64 and earlier) primaries.. We have some good stuff to look at on Pans and Knuckles in our videos. Go to TH-cam and Look up our TH-cam Homepage. Click on "Videos."
Not sure if you've done it...could you find the time to do a fork oil change on a 1979 FLH with the nacelle? It's not at all clear in the manual and I know this thing is due. (Probably never been done, long story). Easy getting the oil out. Not so much getting the oil back in so I haven't touched it. Great content! Thank you!
Not a big deal. Remove the headlight and the other lights around the nacelle. Take out the four bolts that hold it in place and remove it, being careful with the wires and switches connected to it. Pull the plugs on top and refill (once the drain screws have been reinstalled). Now, reinstalling the nacelle; install the headlight with all of its little screws, aligning as you go, then install the four bolts that hold it to the forks. Fill according to the manual, of course. Put it all back together. Allow yourself time to make it fit right. The order is very important here.
Hi Mike, I did the forks on my '75 Superglide, Kayaba forks. Lots of good tips from here. Thanks very much. When I did the forks I noticed the steering was notchy. I did the steering head bearings. My question is about how tight to make the fork stem nut and whether the sequence I end up following makes sense. I have not been able to find a torque specs for the stem nut or any guidance specific to the re-assembly process for the triple tree for this specific fork design. I viewed lots of others so I get the principles. Here's what I did. Basically I tightened the upper fork stem nut to the point where further tightening would restrict the side to side handlebar motion. After this was tightened, I tightened the upper triple tree bracket to the fork stem. The Kayaba forks have two lower pinch bolts. However for the upper ones, I think the Kayaba forks put on the bikes from '73 - '77, use the combination of the fork stem nut and a 3/8 x 16 x 1-5/8 socket head screw that secures the upper triple tree bracket around the fork stem nut, together, to serve the purpose of the upper pinch bolt. So bottom line, I tightened the fork stem nut as described above and then then secured the upper triple tree bracket to the stem nut using the pinch bolt described above (to 22 lbs torque). Am I at least getting warm? Apologies for being so long winded. thanks for any perspective after reading this.
You're doing fine. For the stem nut, read about "falloff" in your service manual. Your approach is superb. Logic prevails. When doing a front end, it's not a bad idea to go back and loosen the pinch bolts and retighten them. That's pinch bolts and axel, just to relieve any accidentally imposed stress.
@@pacificmike9501 I viewed lots of videos on fall off or as some of the folks call it fall away. I was running those tests as I was tightening things down. I also did go through a specific sequence. The top fork nuts were tightened first as I think they serve as the two upper pinch bolts. I kept the lower ones loose, I also kept the steering stem nut and top triple tree bracket loose. I then went through a sequence to tighten everything down. I found a video on getting the triple tree to a line properly and I followed that after which I tightened things down in sequence. So again appreciate your review. Helpful, very
@@pacificmike9501 in one of your videos you describe how these older motorcycles were 'hand fitted'. Getting them as good as they can be is more or less an act of fine-tuning.
Hey Mike, I’m a little late to the video but if you could tell me where you got that tool to set the dust caps that would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance!
About to do this because I have a leak as of todays ride. What is the ounces on a wet fill? That portion of the video seemed a bit unsure. Having trouble finding a definitive answer. Thank you
What size of in line fuel filter are you running on Baby Doll? I have a 50/66 PanShovel and the tanks are rusty. Any ideas or suggestions on how to resurrect them? Thanks Mike, love your videos
It really depends on what you want. Using a stock (through the tank) petcock on 50 tanks, you're limited to 1/4" line using special fittings. The bike is obviously not a stocker, so I suggest neoprene hoses over stock hard lines. If you're going to install fittings and a modern petcock, I suggest a big free flowing petcock with a 5/16 hose. If you want a nice big petcock (not the place to skimp), install (weld in) a 3/8 pipe coupling and there are really nice petcocks to screw into them. Babydoll has some aftermarket fittings, but uses the original petcock and a Linkert carburetor, so 1/4" hose is adequate.
Fork seals are one of my least favorite tasks. Its interesting that you havent come up with a tool for compressing the spring and threading the cap in place. I havent needed one yet. Ive always managed to get the cap on with a lot of "dad words". Since I work solo, Im always looking for ways to create that necessary third hand
I did not see you show the alignment of the shock assy for proper alignment with the other shock assy. This is so the axle for the wheel can be inserted thru these assy's.
I don't know how tallented you are, but, here goes. Grind down the end of a small chisel. Round it and make it smooth. Use a bunch of tape to protect both upper and lower fork legs. Tap that seal in very carefully using that SMALL chisel and a small mallet. If you slip or mess it up this way, not my fault.
Hey Mike do you think old tubes that have been leaking for years could be warn out so much to where a complete new seal kit bushings and all would not stop the leak? I had my seals replaced years ago and the mechanic said my tubes were warn out that’s why they still leaking after brand new seals I’m wondering if it wasn’t installed correctly Thank you for your knowledge God Bless 🙏
Just go to our TH-cam Channel (Pacific Mike). Click on the word "Videos." Theey'll all come up with thumbnail pictures and a brief description. There are well over 300 videos.
Hi Mike,l 'm working on my 2008 Dyna fxd super glide fork seals,but some say it.takes 10.2 oz.,seeing ur video u say 26.6,so can help me with this issue plz.?
We changed the oil on our forks every every 3 or 4 days in a Softail how do you adjust that air screw on a carburetor it's a 88 Sportster can you give me a tip how to do it art
Are you referring to the "air mixture" screw located on the bottom of a stock Keihin carburetor? I think you are. If the plug has been removed, simply turn the screw while the bike is warmed up and at idle. It has some affect, not a bunch. In California (maybe other places too), the idle mixture screw has an aluminum plug hiding it. If so, I generally drill a hole in that plug (be very careful so as to not damage the carburetor), then screw in a sheet metal screw and yank that plug out. Again, be very careful.
I may have missed something; did you replace the copper plated and moly coated slider bushings? Keeping them fresh protects the inner surface of the slider bore.
Yes, but it requires some special work. It is quite common to use a (if I remember correctly) 91 up pump. I have one on my 77 Shovel. Go to sscycle.com and look at the S&S oil pumps and instructions.
Ah, air left trapped within the oil, is forced to then compress, this gives the damping 'bouncy mode' & leads to some distress, 'Pitter-patter' says the wheel - 'my tyre has got the jitters', 'It's gets my goat & causes float, as you swerve me round the critters'. For damping oil must ebb & flow, as the rider threads these gates, while push & pull are held in check, by Sid Viscous & his mates. (Having just one 'un-burped' rear shock can be entertaining too; 'You wanna see bump-steering son? - follow me! : )
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I have found my new favorite how-to channel. The Bob Ross of motorcycles. I love it.
Wow, thanks!
"Far Out"....had to chuckle when you said that only because I relate to the same date and times.....Good one Mike, Thank's!
Glad you enjoyed it
Haha just watched him say that and this comment immediately came to mind
My dad always said far out! That and "out of sight" 😀
Thank you Mike, always love stopping by the garage have a blessed week my friends.
Thanks, you too!
Thanks. Your video made this repair extremely easy. I would have struggled without it.
Glad it helped
HOWDY MIKE,
Thanks YOU & Mike for walking us through this PROCEDURE.
COOP
...............................................
Glad you liked it.
Thank you for sharing. Watched as always and very much enjoyed and hanging out in the shop with the two Mikes.
Our pleasure!
great info for those that have not done a front end
Thank You.
Great stuff. Thanks for sharing!
Thank You
Another excellent tutorial.
Thanks again!
Once again, I learned something new. Thanks Mike!
Glad to hear it!
Great instructional video Mike. I really appreciated the care you took to not scratch it, right down to the cardboard wedge trick, & the brass jawed, cloth-covered vice. The chronological order of disassembly, really helps the flow on reassembly again too! Bravo guys and thanks.
Thank You.
Thanks again Mike once again I get thru another project thanks to you and your knowledge.
Glad to hear it
Enjoyed it Mike! Thanks for sharing.
Glad you enjoyed it
The silent pause after he said “ya ever try to screw a bolt into something when everybody’s watching ya” was so golden it had me laughing
But, true.
Extremely helpful, just getting ready to accomplish this task for my 2010 Dyna Wide Glide!! Thank You!
Slow and easy=no scratches.
Using an old seal as a driver tool... genius!
And free.
Thanks Mike great video👍
Glad you enjoyed it
Great job mike
Thank You
Very helpful. Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Awesome video
Thank You.
Always good to refresh on how was that done again...Thank You Mike !!
My pleasure!!
Excellent!!!
Glad you like it!
Thank you for the video! Good instructions.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Notified and watched !! Another great, informative vid. Keep it up, Mike !!
Thanks! Will do!
these guys are good!! one take and they got it!
We try. Thank You.
Very interesting, thanks Mike (s). Learned some helpful way to do it! Cheers from France
Glad you enjoyed it
👍🙂
Thank you for the fork tube videos. I happen to have a 99 Dyna FXD and now I know how to do it myself. See you on the road. 🏍️
Cool.
Well done gentlemen. I now know to slide the leg up and down 8 to 10 times to get rid of the air bubbles before reassembling. 👍👍 🇨🇦
Thank You. (It's in the book)
I came here to finally arrive on a great instructional video to replace my fork seals! I have to say a great instructor whose goes into great detail and a awesome camera man capturing all the angles. I will absolutely stop back by your garage for more help! Liked and subscribed!
That's great. Thank you. Go to our Home Page and click on the word "videos." There are 194 of them.
👍🙂
Right on, thanks Mike
Thank You
Once again thank you man ......🍻🇺🇸
You bet
Like always job well dunn ty Mike
Thank You
Perfect video. Thank u man
Thank You. Glad you liked it.
Great tip on using the wood chisel to spread clamps. A lot different changing fork seal on that style than on a early wide glide front ends. Keep up the good work brother!
Yes, it all changed with the "Showa" front ends.
Love the videos
Thank You
Thanks so much for this video. I live in rural Texas , and there's no shops within an hour of my place. So doing it myself is pretty much the norm. Gonna tackle this project on my 99 Dyna Super Glide Sport this weekend. That front end has gotten really spongey.
Just take it slow, enjoy it. Going slow, you won't even scratch it. Thank You.
Mike thank you. We are blessed by your presence. I will carry on your tricks of the trade.
Wow! Thank You.
Great video, fantastic, close-up camera angles, very clear. I have to pull my forks on my 2020 Triglide 49 mm forks and install an intimidator valve just above the dampening rod, then set the spring on top of that and then put it back together. Won’t be doing the full tear down. I have watched a few videos, and yours is the best.
Thank You.
I bet there was a collective gasp when that torx slipped, I know I did. Great video! ✌
Thanks 👍
Thanks for sharing Mike great shows and it make me want to work on bike again but I love riding more
I like to do both. This may require more than one motorcycle.
@@pacificmike9501 yes sir I have four but can ride only one at w time but still I work on other people’s to it supports my riding to
I certainly understand that.
Mike, an easy way for people to remember what direction to install seals is (for oil, open side in, for grease, open side out).
Okay.
hey hi Mike's I'm glad I found your u tube channel just in time I'm gonna change out the seals on forks on my Dyna got a leak after 3300 miles ride ,Alot of very helpful Info will keep Fav subscribe's
Thank You.
Thank you
You're welcome
Thanks for another great video Mike. You too camera man Mike.
Thanks 👍
😊
Puff Puff Pass...
Thanx Mike
Thank You
FYI, those are variable rate springs. The closer a spring is wound the softer the spring so that on a smooth road the soft end of the spring is activated but when rougher conditions are encountered the stiffer part of the spring is engaged. So the softer part of the spring should butt up against the active part of the leg. Understanding how things work helps me to assemble things correctly. Another excellent video my friend.
Thank You. Nice explanation.
Another word would be "progressive" springs.
@@pacificmike9501 Yah, I could have used that term but I didn't want any of your viewers who are "conservative" to have a fit. Later bro'
And I should have said, "progressively wound." "Conservatively wound" would really have been confusing.
I need one of those seal installers. Thank for the content.
Any time!
I worked in a independent shop made a tool for seals out of plastic pipe tee so it would have a handle an drove seals in with it. Cheaper than store bought seal driver.
Sounds good to me.
Any tips for installing seals without owning a seal driver like yours? Thank you for the video very helpful
I pretty much do it exactly the way you do it Mike. The one thing I do different is I just snug the tubes in at the end ,I do the measurement at the top when I slide them up but I don't torque yet. I wait until I get the wheel on the bike, or just slide the axle through at the bottom and snug it up, then loosen both sides of the clamps so the left and right tubes will slide up together using the axle to align both tubes to the exact height, I still do the measurement at the top but only on one side because when you push them up together with the axle in place the left has to be exactly as the right. I then snug down both sides then do the final torque. That's just my way of doing it, maybe it's overkill but it's the way I always done it for the last 45 years. Great video as usual. Thanks. LLH&R
Sounds pretty thorough to me. I like it.
Great video man! Here @Buoy4AK we’re on our own on Kodiak Island, Alaska so if we don’t fix it ourselves, it ain’t getting fixed. Needless to say, our 06 FXDBI does more off-roading than most Pan Americas will ever do (@12k, front fork oil is junk). Thanks for the assist brother!
I am impressed! Wishing you the best. You've got some serious extremes.
Awesome, thanx my man. Hopefully I'll be doing 3 sets of forks this week including my own. Any other tips or tricks would be greatly appreciated!!! Your videos are very clear and put together very well
Thank You.
I believe the narrow part of spring seats on the dampener, and the wider part of spring seats on the rim of the fortube cap or oil flow restriction purposes
Thank You.
Far out, indeed!
Thank You.
Always respect the grey beard’s…✌️
Thank You.
you don't haftoo be a big guy! If you wear your Harley Davidson boots it will give you another 3 inches of height and get more leverage to install cap back on 💪 great video Mike!
Why didn't I think of that?
Great Videos… you show everything needed for a normal Joe to learn something. Thank you. Heres a question, I have both of my Forks off after installing the seals and they’re ready to reinstall, I noticed you tightened the fork back down without the wheel back on, how do you know its aligned correctly, and how do you align it easily after having them both off? I see some videos about this online, however nobody explains things as thorough in my opinion as you do. I appreciate your time and excellent step by step instruction. Keep them coming 👍🏼
If you install the legs and all of the parts, loosen it up and let it relax and align itself. Then tighten things up with no stress on them,
i ues a speed wrench on the top nut keeps it centerd
That would take some doing.
Cameraman Mike - welcome to the screen actors guild! 😂
Thank you. He is a little shy.
👍😊
bravo bon tuto👍 JEAN MARSEILLE france
Thank You.
Hi Mike, I have a 2010 Harley dyna
30000 km I have a noise in front of the front fork when there are holes in the road
tak, tak, tak, tak 1/ no problem on the brake calipers 2/ no problem on the wheel 3/ no problem on the bearings 4 / no problem on the fork. I changed the fork oil
I replaced the front engine mount and still this tak, tak noise, is it possible that it's the front shock absorber springs that are tired? at 30,000 km? Thank you for your reply.
JEAN
Always a pleasure seeing a new video from you! Although I own a springer still enjoy watching this done. Where could one get your "See you on the road" air cleaner labels;-) Looking forward to your next video!
They were quite expensive and I only had a very few made, but, if I have a bunch made, I'll be able to afford it. Thank you for asking.
@@pacificmike9501 Hello again, Thanks for the reply. I see a whole new side business for you, "See you on the road" labels, tee-shirts, bumper stickers, etc;-) Best wishes to you and thanks for all the video knowledge as greatly appreciated!
Good idea. It's going to take a little time and money to get started.
thanks again. with the drain plug air rattle gun, we call the 2 x dugga duggas in australia
Cool. Now I'm becoming "bylingual."
Wait! I think it's "bilingual." That's betta.
Man in my mind this job was going to be a nightmare but your video made it as ease as a paint by numbers project. WOW
Great step by step instructions and explanations of what you were doing. I've got my dyna front tubes off and sending them
and the lower legs to the powder coater. Any tips for getting there parts powder coated and reinstalling them.
Thanks again for your great videos.
Just make sure you explain what you need masked. Removing that stuff is a real nightmare.
@@pacificmike9501 👍Thanks
👍🖖
Thank You
mike great video just getting the stuff together to do the 99 road king going to install a legend fork kit upgrade and do my seals i was going to hire someone to do this but it looks pretty simple the bigger job is getting the front of the bike tore down. do you have any videos on head bearing set up ? i have a proper service manual but always nice to see it first thanks !!
I think I covered it when I put my Shovelhead together. Go to our youtube homepage and click on "videos." At this point, there are over 200 of them.
I just want to thank you I wrecked my Dyna and had to replace the fork tubes I couldn't have done it without this video thank man...she rides again
Great to hear! Take care.
Hello Mike, I have watched a few of your videos now and I have enjoyed the content, I am curious though, can you reveal some details about your front wheel chock on your motorcycle lift? looks like some heavy welded angle iron to my eye, a search on your channel didn't reveal you ever having talked about it before, so apologies if it is detailed in a previous video and I've missed it. Thanks in advance for your reply and keep making great videos!
The lifts are K&L. The clamps (wheel chocks) are from Western Manufacturing. I mixed two brands together.
Have you ever done this on a soft tail deuce? The configuration of the top of the fork is different than the one in the video. The spring does not come out when you take the cap off the top of the upper tube. I looks like you need a special tool to take the inner nut out. Great video.
You should have an appropriate service manual. You don't need to remove the springs to replace the seals.
My tip for not crossing those fine fork cap threads is to push down on the cap with the wrench, very slowly rotate the cap counter clockwise until you hear/feel the little "click" as the threads mate. Then slowly rotate clockwise to start the threads.
It is a feel thing.
dang ill try that but its always hair raising
its that damn spacer thats the issue... goes to show Harley aint always the best engineers at the game
When you took the fork cap off, there was a spacer... My 2012 street bob has a spacer as well but it is bent and im wondering where i can get a new one and what i should be looking for
If you're speaking of the long spring spacer, go to your local hardware store. Get a length of 3/4" schedule 30 PVC pipe and cut it to desired length. Clean (deburr) the ends and there it is.
@@pacificmike9501 Thank you Pacific Mike
Mike, have you done a video on knucklehead left crank case shaft seal replacement? My FL 41 leaks like a sieve. Thanks
There was not a seal there originally. We'll be putting one into the Flathead. It is the same. The seal that is available to us is made by Colony. It is a great part. This is a modification we do for running a belt drive. Otherwise, no need. We've explained this a number of times when explaining installation of belt drives on early (64 and earlier) primaries.. We have some good stuff to look at on Pans and Knuckles in our videos. Go to TH-cam and Look up our TH-cam Homepage. Click on "Videos."
✊🏻👍👌
Ride today ; pi town loop -
Clears the brain 🧠
Yes it does. Enjoy!
Not sure if you've done it...could you find the time to do a fork oil change on a 1979 FLH with the nacelle? It's not at all clear in the manual and I know this thing is due. (Probably never been done, long story). Easy getting the oil out. Not so much getting the oil back in so I haven't touched it. Great content! Thank you!
Not a big deal. Remove the headlight and the other lights around the nacelle. Take out the four bolts that hold it in place and remove it, being careful with the wires and switches connected to it. Pull the plugs on top and refill (once the drain screws have been reinstalled). Now, reinstalling the nacelle; install the headlight with all of its little screws, aligning as you go, then install the four bolts that hold it to the forks. Fill according to the manual, of course. Put it all back together. Allow yourself time to make it fit right. The order is very important here.
@@pacificmike9501 thank you. Very thoughtful reply. Love the content.
It’s a variable spring, same as automobile
Okay.
Hi Mike, I did the forks on my '75 Superglide, Kayaba forks. Lots of good tips from here. Thanks very much.
When I did the forks I noticed the steering was notchy. I did the steering head bearings.
My question is about how tight to make the fork stem nut and whether the sequence I end up following makes sense. I have not been able to find a torque specs for the stem nut or any guidance specific to the re-assembly process for the triple tree for this specific fork design. I viewed lots of others so I get the principles.
Here's what I did. Basically I tightened the upper fork stem nut to the point where further tightening would restrict the side to side handlebar motion. After this was tightened, I tightened the upper triple tree bracket to the fork stem. The Kayaba forks have two lower pinch bolts. However for the upper ones, I think the Kayaba forks put on the bikes from '73 - '77, use the combination of the fork stem nut and a 3/8 x 16 x 1-5/8 socket head screw that secures the upper triple tree bracket around the fork stem nut, together, to serve the purpose of the upper pinch bolt. So bottom line, I tightened the fork stem nut as described above and then then secured the upper triple tree bracket to the stem nut using the pinch bolt described above (to 22 lbs torque). Am I at least getting warm?
Apologies for being so long winded. thanks for any perspective after reading this.
You're doing fine. For the stem nut, read about "falloff" in your service manual. Your approach is superb. Logic prevails. When doing a front end, it's not a bad idea to go back and loosen the pinch bolts and retighten them. That's pinch bolts and axel, just to relieve any accidentally imposed stress.
@@pacificmike9501 your comments are very much appreciated. Boosts my confidence.
@@pacificmike9501 I viewed lots of videos on fall off or as some of the folks call it fall away. I was running those tests as I was tightening things down. I also did go through a specific sequence. The top fork nuts were tightened first as I think they serve as the two upper pinch bolts. I kept the lower ones loose, I also kept the steering stem nut and top triple tree bracket loose. I then went through a sequence to tighten everything down. I found a video on getting the triple tree to a line properly and I followed that after which I tightened things down in sequence. So again appreciate your review. Helpful, very
You are way thorough. I'm duly impressed.
@@pacificmike9501 in one of your videos you describe how these older motorcycles were 'hand fitted'. Getting them as good as they can be is more or less an act of fine-tuning.
Hey mike hope all is well can you tell me what the black box is that’s under the dash of my 93 FXSTC thank you
I believe what you're describing is your "turn signal" module. And I hope all is well with you.
I want to know where can we get that special tool for driving the seals straight?
Any of the major aftermarket suppliers carry them. There are a couple of different manufacturers. Jim's Machine is the first one that comes to mind.
What socket size is that you used for the fork fill plug
I believe (without going to the garage with a ruler) it is 1 3/8".
Hey Mike, I’m a little late to the video but if you could tell me where you got that tool to set the dust caps that would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance!
I believe it is a tool from Jim's Machine and carried by most aftermarket suppliers.
About to do this because I have a leak as of todays ride. What is the ounces on a wet fill? That portion of the video seemed a bit unsure. Having trouble finding a definitive answer. Thank you
Very simple. Section two (chassis section) of your model and year specific service manual. I have no idea which bike you have.
What do you use to ensure the forks are aligned for the tire shaft to line up with the tire on the tree.
They twist freely with the axle out.
@@pacificmike9501 Okay, thanks. So your just using the axle to line up the forks, after installing the axle.
The sliders turn 360 degrees without the axle or a fender.
@@pacificmike9501 Thanks, Mike. I see what you mean now.
What size of in line fuel filter are you running on Baby Doll? I have a 50/66 PanShovel and the tanks are rusty. Any ideas or suggestions on how to resurrect them? Thanks Mike, love your videos
It really depends on what you want. Using a stock (through the tank) petcock on 50 tanks, you're limited to 1/4" line using special fittings. The bike is obviously not a stocker, so I suggest neoprene hoses over stock hard lines. If you're going to install fittings and a modern petcock, I suggest a big free flowing petcock with a 5/16 hose. If you want a nice big petcock (not the place to skimp), install (weld in) a 3/8 pipe coupling and there are really nice petcocks to screw into them. Babydoll has some aftermarket fittings, but uses the original petcock and a Linkert carburetor, so 1/4" hose is adequate.
I use a Russell inline filter with a washable scintered brass element.
Available at any speed shop.
@@pacificmike9501 Thank you, Pacific Mike. Have fun this weekend, and maybe someday I'll see you on the road
No thread locker when putting the first bike on?
I use thread locker where needed.
Fork seals are one of my least favorite tasks. Its interesting that you havent come up with a tool for compressing the spring and threading the cap in place. I havent needed one yet. Ive always managed to get the cap on with a lot of "dad words". Since I work solo, Im always looking for ways to create that necessary third hand
I believe there is a tool available.
I did not see you show the alignment of the shock assy for proper alignment with the other shock assy. This is so the axle for the wheel can be inserted thru these assy's.
They rotate 360 degrees with no fender mounted.
what can I use to install the seal if I do not have the tool like you do?
I don't know how tallented you are, but, here goes. Grind down the end of a small chisel. Round it and make it smooth. Use a bunch of tape to protect both upper and lower fork legs. Tap that seal in very carefully using that SMALL chisel and a small mallet. If you slip or mess it up this way, not my fault.
Hey Mike do you think old tubes that have been leaking for years could be warn out so much to where a complete new seal kit bushings and all would not stop the leak?
I had my seals replaced years ago and the mechanic said my tubes were warn out that’s why they still leaking after brand new seals I’m wondering if it wasn’t installed correctly
Thank you for your knowledge
God Bless 🙏
Hard to say from here, but it certainly happens.
Ok thank you Mike
Mike new here great show how do you find the series to any rebuild
Thank You
Just go to our TH-cam Channel (Pacific Mike). Click on the word "Videos." Theey'll all come up with thumbnail pictures and a brief description. There are well over 300 videos.
Is there a site I can find all of Mikes videos at ? My bikes a 1991 FXSTS and old now, and it's hard to find videos .
Go to youtube, then Pacific Mike, then, on that homepage, click on "videos." There are 189 of them.
The lower leg polishing would be interesting. How do you get the clear coat off?
He just buffed it off. Didn't seem as tough as the clear coat I remember.
Scotch-Brite it all over until dull then buff it out with Black compound then White 👍🙂
@@pacificmike9501 I remember trying it years ago. Nearly impossible
At that point, I used to farm it out to a professional polisher. Now, I got this cameraman who's really good at it...
I used a scotch bright to remove and happach semi-chrome polish and a buffer to bring them up- worked great
Hi Mike,how many oz. Of fork oil Go into my 2008 Dyna fxd super glide is it 26.6 or 10.2 oz. ???
I'd have to dig up that service manual. You need one.
Hi Mike,l 'm working on my 2008 Dyna fxd super glide fork seals,but some say it.takes 10.2 oz.,seeing ur video u say 26.6,so can help me with this issue plz.?
There are different front ends. Check your service manual for your specific model.
We changed the oil on our forks every every 3 or 4 days in a Softail how do you adjust that air screw on a carburetor it's a 88 Sportster can you give me a tip how to do it art
Are you referring to the "air mixture" screw located on the bottom of a stock Keihin carburetor? I think you are. If the plug has been removed, simply turn the screw while the bike is warmed up and at idle. It has some affect, not a bunch. In California (maybe other places too), the idle mixture screw has an aluminum plug hiding it. If so, I generally drill a hole in that plug (be very careful so as to not damage the carburetor), then screw in a sheet metal screw and yank that plug out. Again, be very careful.
I may have missed something; did you replace the copper plated and moly coated slider bushings? Keeping them fresh protects the inner surface of the slider bore.
Low mileage, good shape.
Can I put an evo oil pump on a nose cone shovelhead?
Yes, but it requires some special work. It is quite common to use a (if I remember correctly) 91 up pump. I have one on my 77 Shovel. Go to sscycle.com and look at the S&S oil pumps and instructions.
What’s the tape for on top of the fork I didn’t see you put that on
Thank you
Just protecting from scratching the chrome.
@@pacificmike9501 ok thank you 🙏
Thank you Mike. Is there a vaccine for shovelhead fever ? I think I got it.
No, you just gotta ride it out.
Ah, air left trapped within the oil, is forced to then compress,
this gives the damping 'bouncy mode' & leads to some distress,
'Pitter-patter' says the wheel - 'my tyre has got the jitters',
'It's gets my goat & causes float, as you swerve me round the critters'.
For damping oil must ebb & flow, as the rider threads these gates,
while push & pull are held in check, by Sid Viscous & his mates.
(Having just one 'un-burped' rear shock can be entertaining too; 'You wanna see bump-steering son? - follow me! : )
The poetry is great, but truer words were never spake.
👍💯😊
1st do you ever do anything on FXRS?
I don't have one. Mike doesn't have one.
@@pacificmike9501 good answer
Sorry 'bout that. I am an FXR fan.
👍👍🇨🇦✌️🇨🇦✌️🇨🇦👍
Thank You.
what is the name of that seal driver?
I believe it is made by Jim's Machine.