I have always admired anyone good at their craft no matter what their craft is whether it is an actor or transmission specialist as long as they are good and man he is good I'm mesmerised watching how professional he is and I'm sure he could become a brain surgeon without any problem, top class
The Pine hollow auto diagnostics channel took a CVT apart from a Nissan Rogue and also found the cobalt ball bearings had grinded away the groves they were supposed to sit in. This caused extra strain on the metal belt and broke it.
Thank you! I almost got taken by a shifty shop. Tried to tell me the TC needed replacing, valve body and pulley. Checked the TC, nothing, checked the valve body, nothing, didn’t know enough about the pulley to check it. Thanks!!!
Kennedy's Transmission, where ever day's arms day. I recon he moseyed up to the work bench with that transmission under his arm. Good info, thanks for posting.
Yeah, that's my thinking...Otherwise if I had a Nissan with a CVT Transmission, I'd want this guy to take a look and give it a tune-up; but at least Nissan is trying to improve on their transmissions. Toyota is suppose to have the best CVTs, but hopefully Nissan can change that aspect...
I can watch this video 20k times but I can't really do this man's job. No wonder why TransShop charges so much money because of all this work that they have to go through. My Nissan 2015 CVT failed @ 59k miles. My Toyota Corolla 2017 CVT failed @ 60k miles.
@@honestone490 I'm lucky in a way because, with my Toyota Corolla, the CVT brokedown at 60400 miles which is 400 miles over my 60k under warranty. I just talked to the Toyota corporate office to give me a break because it's just 400 miles over. After a month of begging, Toyota replaced my CVT for free.
6 tiny ball bearings in groves to operate that shaft? That's a disaster waiting to happen... intentional failer point right there. They couldn't have designed the shaft and drum with splines?
This guy's a beast at transmission I'm having my own transmission worked on now & this cleared up a lot of what I'm paying for its sucks bad that I'm having this problem but hey I got some clearly how much they actually have to do .
For those of us that bought a Vehicle with a CVT transmission. I bought a 2010 Subaru Outback, now has 120,000 miles on it and no CVT fluid change as of yet, and my dealership says it doesn’t need to be changed. Factory warranty period is over. The question is; does changing the fluid more often solve these types of problems? Then how often to change the CVT fluid? Then what to use? Subaru, Amsoil, Redline, Purple or Valvoline CVT fluid. The list of fluids is endless now days and perhaps the most expensive is not the best choice? I am currently planning to change when the weather warms up. Do it myself with Valvoline CVT fluid. Buy 7 quarts. Level vehicle on jack stands. Drain thru drain plug. Try to warm the new fluid to between 90 and 105 degrees, Fill thru the fill plug with a manual pump until fluid comes out, start vehicle, cycle thru gears, leave idling and continue to fill until it comes out the fill plug. Try to measure temperature of new fluid in tranny with a laser Temp measurer until around 105 degrees and no fluid dripping from fill plug. Torque drain plug, fill plug, and call it done. Any comments?
These things rarely last to a hundred thousand miles. It usually costs more to replace than the car is worth. Throw away cars are the new business model.
I were gonna ask about my vehicle but I think you answered it. The CEILING RING.....I have an 2007 Nissan Murano 3.5L AWD CVT transmission and it cranks fine sounds fine just won't drive foward or reverse. So the ceiling ring is the guilty one that's causing my vehicle not to move.
Outstanding video. Thank you for sharing. I have a 2013 Infiniti JX35 with this cvt and when I dropped the pan I have noticed a few 1 inch long, thin and flexible metal pieces. Should I be worried? I only got the P1778 code which is for stepper motor. Please help.
My wifes Maxima 2011 with 94k on the clock is going in for replacement next week. How can they not admit there is a problem with all these junk transmissions.
Don’t know if this would be helpful, but I work at a nissan dealer, Nissan now offers parts for repairing pretty much all of there 2013 and newer cvts, they released service bulletins for this, there are several kits that come with new belt and pulley kits that come as an assembly and a box with seals and thrust bearings and a new pump
Bob,I really appreciate the feedback. I have heard that parts were coming from my local Nissan dealers, but have not been able to actually get what we have needed, when we have needed it. I know they have a couple pulley assemblies and valve bodies available, but Nissan apparently has not upgraded the variator; please let me know if you have heard anything different.Thanks,Matt
Kennedy Transmission, CVT & Auto yes very limited on what’s available, they seem to only be releasing enough parts “fix” the problems they are having with them
I venture to make two suggestions: The Element should have a hole in the middle to accommodate a thin meshed / spun steel wire to keep Elements in tact even at high speed. The Achilles Heel is the Belt. It is not easy to get it and replace it, therefore, a substitute CVT should be available to replace the malfunctioning one while original is being repaired. It would keep the vehicle functioning. I wonder how long it takes to take out the CVT and install one?
.Wow thanks for posting. I got a lot out if this. I just bought a 2019 Nissan Qushqai It has a CTV transmission I also have a 1997 landscaper 80 it has done over 450,000 klms 279,617.037 miles And beside the recommended transmission servicing It still the same old transmission I know know the Nissan Qushqai will never last as long as that.
Hi Jeff, first I would like to congratulate Americans to have a wonderful & experienced CVT Transmission Specialist in US. I wish you were in England & sorted my Toyota Verso 2013 1.8 CVT, 120k miles which has started making Grinding, Slipping & engaging noise after going on the left & right turns & going round the roundabouts (slow to medium speed) Please suggest the cause & cure for it. Last Transmission fluid change 60k miles but the dealer didn’t change the filter he admitted!! Waiting for your quick reply! Kind regards MAK
My 2019 pathfinder with 45000 miles had a CVT. It literally exploded. Worst designed thing ever. My 2005 pathfinder had 322000 miles on it. I will never buy another Nissan or another car with a CVT in it
Thanks for the fantastic video. I have a Dodge Caliber with the JF011E. When it is cold i can get normal forward and reverse motion, as soon as it heats up which is about halfway around a block it no longer moves forward or reverse the RPMs go up but there is no motion. Right before the issues started the trans got louder. I'm about to take it apart, any advice on what to look at first? 85k miles. As far as I know no service has ever been completed.
I don't know if you were referring to the variator or the transmission, but I used to work for a company in Oklahoma City that remanufactures nissan cvts.
Do you have any video on how to replace the manual valve selector? I think that is the name, it is the lever to change the shifts which is a long one, you may see it in minute 7:19 seconds
Great info sir! New subscriber question. On the cvt belt the oem has ridges like the edge of a quarter. I'm rebuilding a jfo15e (12 Nissan versa) the ridges where worm off the belt. The belt is smooth on the sides now not grooved or chewed up just not grooved. (Variator pulleys look great) Question #1 Can the old belt be reused? Question #2 I did buy a new aftermarket belt and it has no ridges at all just smooth. Should I use it or the old one? Just not sure what's best. Thanks For your time.
Hey, great job, thank you for the effort to share your experience with us! Could you please tell the secondary pulley external diameter, as I want to make clamp puller - like yours. Thanks!
Hi, Jeff. Great vids appreciate the straight forward info. CAR: Nissan 08 Sentra, Used, bought with 120,000 miles BUT I missed the TSB for trans repair/replacement; to my knowledge the filter has nvr been changed. I have drained and refilled the trans 4x since, now @170,000. Com. throwing P0745, I'm testing and replacing any faulty solenoids. I removed and cleaned the valve body, new filter, about to reinstall. The visible part of the belt is in good condition, is there a way to manually turn the belt while the V.B. is out to inspect the full length?
Hey I've got a 05 Murano that slips when it gets hot so I know the belt is good so I guess if I replace the valve body or the valves or the solenoids themselves will that fix my problem more or less?
Any chance there is a video that takes out the transmission from a 2005-2007 Ford freestyle, or Montego or Ford 500? My transmission is making that infamous helicopter sound that is in relation to the input shaft going out or the bearings or the sun gear have grinding teeth. Any help is appreciated and thanks in advance for a reply
Hi, How do you put the ball when you're done. Do you have a video of that. And do you know what could be making nose when I was driving. It's not de bearing. Could it be something else in the differential?
Armand,The sheave bearings need to be inserted with the sheave's inserted together about half way (a piece of foam supporting them at the proper distance is very helpful). As far as the noise is concerned, a differential issue is certainly a possibility, however, we do see a fair amount of issues with the transfer gear bearings.Thanks,Matt
George,We really went deep into CVT's in 2015; largely because we were seeing such high failure rates on the dealership rebuilt units we were installing for our customers. I purchased multiple trailer loads of CVT cores that we disassembled and analyzed for failures. Since we already specialized in European transmissions, I have contacts in Europe that were helpful in obtaining parts. We can now improve on a number of the factory failure points on quite a few units if they require an overhaul.Thanks,Matt
On the Jatco units without a dipstick, we monitor the temperature on a scan tool as we drive until it is proper (most require 135 degrees f to 165 degrees f) before pulling it in. We leave it running and check it from underneath. We like to see a moderately thin stream from the check port on a full unit at proper temp range.Thanks,Matt Johnson
My wife’s 2013 Jeep Compass with the 2.4 liter engine, will go into drive and move forward but not over 20-25 mph. It moves in reverse also. Seems like it is “stuck in 1st gear”. I changed all 4 solenoids as well as the stepper motor but still does the same thing. Any idea or suggestion to try next ? The belt looked in perfect condition when I had the valve body out.
Damn Jeff, you make it look easy from all your knowledge and experience. I have many questions, answer one or more and I will be grateful. Given say a Honda Civic, same driving conditions, which type of transmission would like order given the choice, CVT and standard 6spd automatic? Which type will last longer? Can a CVT handle high torque\HP power? Do you think sports cars will ever use CVT transmissions? Thank you for the video.
No if you're looking for sports car transmission then you'll want a straight 6 manual. Automatic transmission are better than CVT if you don't want a manual. That's my opinion. Jeff may have better advice though.
I have 2012 Nissan Maxima. 158k. Starting to hear cricket sound when accelerating. Finally made complaint to NHTSA about CVT transmission. Apparently if everyone files Complaint about Nissan CVT transmission IT WILL EVENTUALLY BE A RECALL IF ENOUGH NISSAN CVT owner file complaint with NHTSA.
Hi Jeff! Considering the most common failure modes of the JF010E (specifically 2009 model). On cars with manual shift mode, is it better for transmission longevity to just put it in drive and let the CVT continually adjust ratios, OR is it better to use the manual shift mode and manually switch ratios only when needed? In stop-and-go city traffic, the CVT can adjust ratios many times per minute, but in that same traffic, I can hold the ratio at 2 or 3 for 10-15 minutes.
Joshua,I would suspect that minimizing the amount of extending and compressing that the primary and secondary variator pulleys do (i.e. using the manual steps and minimizing "shifting") would reduce the wear a little on the 6mm sheave bearings. I do not think it would likely have any benefit for the pulley bearings themselves or the pump and valving. There may be some additional wear at those exact points on the sheave faces, but I have not seen this as an issue before. We recommend replacing the fluid and filter(s) every 30,000 to minimize the internal wear. Thanks,Matt Johnson
Great video! Have question about a whining noise in my cvt. It’s a 2014 Nissan Pathfinder. 90000 km. Just started hearing a speed related whine at about 40km and onward. Other than the whine no difference in performance. Removed bottom pan and magnets were clean showing little wear. Changed filter also fairly clean. I also flushed through 16 litres N.S.-3 until clean. Any help on the whine issue would be greatly appreciated.
Ok so I found out were the whine was coming from! I thought it was from the cvt but wasn’t. I discovered that the rear output seal was leaking and through the jugs and reels ended up replacing the front transfer case and noise is gone! It’s apparently a very common problem for that rear output seal to leak on the transfer case.
Alan, Yes, the fluid and filters can be changed. We recommend changing fluid and filters (both the pan and cooler return) every 30,000 miles on the Jatco CVT's. Thanks, Matt Johnson
I drive a 20 years old manual Peugeot and had ZERO problems related to transmission. I want to buy a nissan automatic but seeing all these problems I am having second thoughts. An automatic transmission is another thing that can break. And the least reliable seem to be these jatco CVTs.
Do you ever think it will be cost effective to fix a broken CVT transmission. For example, my 2011 Nissan Altima 2.5s just died because the CVT died. Had 187,000 miles on it - was very lucky it lasted that long. Fast forward to the future, do you think there will be a time when these transmissions can be cost effectively repaired?
I have a CVT with 149,000 miles, its never had its transmission fluid changed before but I heard that it can do more harm than good, it has no problems and I don't want to create any, should I?
@@honestone490 exactly. I hear some say never ever do drain and fill. They are usually running shops doing flushes with EXPENSIVE machines and they must justify the cost by making some of it back. Hey I'd like to know isn't cleaner fluid better than dark dirty fluid? I'll listen to folks who always changed theirs at 15000-20000. Drain. Fill.
We recommend changing the fluid and filters every 30,000 - 50,000 miles to all of our customers. These units are very sensitive to debris and frequent services is about the only way to help minimize it. Thanks, Matt
Hi Jeff, I have a 2015 altima s (don't know cvt model) and the front desk staff at my dealership tell me to change the cvt fluid at every 60k as opposed to the recommended 30k per the manual. I'm not an aggressive accelerator (only when short highway on-ramps call for it), and live in a mostly flat area in CA. Caring for the longevity of my cvt, what would you consider an appropriate change interval?
We recommend 30,000 mile service intervals to all of our CVT customers. I would recommend the filter(s) be changed as well at that time.Thanks,Matt Johnson
2012 Rogue. Had a wine to the CVT, especially when hot. When accelerating from a stop the RPM’s will go up as they should, but will suddenly drop 500-700 RPM’s then regain a high RPM with no change on load or acceleration. Dropped pan and cleaned everything. I didn’t see anything unusual in the pan or on the magnets (very little friction material). Refilled CVT fluid and after 200 miles did another drain and fill. Wine is gone and the RPM drop and regain during steady acceleration has lessened in severity, but still present. No codes. 55,000 miles. Been doing it for years. Dealer says everting normal. I have two other CVT’s both Altima’s ‘11 and ‘12 and neither jerk rpm nor wine. Any ideas? Thanks! I made a TH-cam video of the RPM drop on a hill. I’ll try and attach link. th-cam.com/video/vgEfTfmtPjg/w-d-xo.html
Jeff from what i know mitsubishi use jatco cvt as well and the failure rate on mitsubishi is a bit low than on nissan,it has something to do with cvt programming for both,mitsubishi is better in their cvt control programming,is that true?
Hey Jeff, Thanks for the informative, to the point video. If I may ask, what would the underlying issue be to cause belt failure? I have a 2008 Mitsubishi Lancer with a CVT that has been slipping at low speed, and it's throwing a fault code for fluid pressure. Unfortunately no one in my town in Louisiana that owns a transmission shop wants to work on it. Everyone just wants to replace it, at quite a large cost...and many don't even want to replace it. Have you heard of a similar issue before? Would it be worth my money to replace the whole thing on a 10 year old car? It only has 68,000 miles on the damned thing. And get this...I only bought it last freakin' week! Thanks for any advice.
The most common causes for belt failure on the JF011E are the pump flow control valve sticking, sheave bearing wear in the primary variator pulley or being run low on fluid. That being said, if you have any movement at all, we know that the belt is still in tact (although slipping will certainly damage it). The Lancer's generally seem to be pretty good cars so you certainly may want to have the CVT repaired or replaced; particularly with such low mileage. Is the pressure code you are getting a P0868? Are there any other codes?Thanks,Matt Johnson
Matt - The code I'm getting is indeed P0868, as well as P0776 (which is for the Secondary Pressure Control Solenoid - performance or stuck Off). I had a guy flush it and refill it, and add a CVT additive from a company called BG...drove it for a week, and now it drives fine, with no issues. I'm not so sure about that "fix" though. It's not setting any codes, or slipping/hesitating. The first owner obviously didn't drive it much, as it's a 10 year old car with only 70,000 miles. They actually traded it in because it started having transmission issues. I found their phone number in the glove box and was able to contact them. Thing is, it was supposed to be serviced at 60,000 miles and they never did. I've read that CVT transmissions can be very sensitive to dirty fluid. Do you think it's possible that the car not being driven often, coupled with not having the trans. serviced at 60,000 miles could cause junk to clog stuff up that the CVT additive broke free and "cleaned up"? Or, do you think I have an issue that's going to pop back up at some point? Thanks for any advice Matt. You guys are running a good, honest shop, and I wish I could take my car to you. Wanna open a branch in Louisiana, lol?
I have sentera with 11e ,no fluid discoloring and no part breaking in it.have good line and primery pressure but no goof forward pressure, on idle low on acceleration way height and almost none engagement,as soon as total disengaging start buzzing sound coming from near valve body and pump.would tell me what need to be down next.tnx
Taare,By no good forward pressure, do you mean the secondary pulley pressure is significantly lower than the primary? Are you able to see the primary pressure rise with engine RPM's when there is a lack of acceleration? The buzzing sound may be a pump or fluid supply issue- is the noise similar to that of a whining power steering pump.Thanks,Matt Johnson
Ahmed,I believe this JF010E is out of a Murano, but is essentially the same as the JF010E in the Maxima. The filter in the pan is a metal screen type and the auxiliary filter (if equipped) is on the rear of the case (self contained metal canister with filter media). I hope this helps. Thanks, Matt Johnson
I have a maxima with the Reofo9b and i changed the valve body and now it won't drive.. i put it in drive it'll act like it engages in drive but doesn't move and i can't pinpoint anything wrong with it unless i was just sent a faulty valve body.. would you have any idea's on what could be causing this? TIA
Matt,If you did not swap the ROM card from the original valve body to the replacement, you will need to do that (or have the new ROM card flashed with a Nissan scan tool (Consult).Thanks,Matt Johnson
I ended up swapping the sylonoids from the new valve body onto the old valve body but it's still doing the same thing... where is the rom card located?
Just bought a 2009 murano and the trany is bad p0868, Nissan says solenoid internal line pressure regulator. Am i toast or can i have the trany pulled and have the solenoid replaced or fix, might be stuck open? Help. Just wasted 3 grand.
@@jeffstepp1969 it had metal. Flushed it and cleaned the valve body. Had sticking primary and secondary valves. Cleaned bore holes and still it has to be the pump valve regular. Heard that they stick or wear our. The transmission runs fine once it starts going. No slipping. The front axle was leaking and I assumed that the metal wear was from the low fluid. Hoping to replace the pump valve with a transgo kit. I dont hear any bearing issues. I'm hoping that once I have the pump valve regular, I'll be set. As long as the pulleys are not bad. Any thoughts? Or it this just a pipe dream?
Codes p0686 pump pressure. Works for a little but when I try to go up a hill or from a stop, not consistent will give a p1746. The p0686 is causing the other code. Drove to shop about 35 min, no issue. Thoughts. My hope is that low fluid caused the metal pieces, maybe for the belt. Saw the belt when I I removed the valve body and looked ok. Cant afford a rebuild for something I just bought.
@@jeffstepp1969 the murano has 190k. That would make sense. I'm sure at this point the flow control is both worn and sticking from a scored bore hole. No bearing noise on the pulleys that I have heard from other you tube videos that give that indication. I think I found a local shop to put in the transgo replacement value, but I dont think they will do the bearings on the pulley. I guess I'll find out when I get to that point. I'm weighting my options before spending another grand on a car I bought and can not drive. I figure 1k is not a bad price to pull the trans and put in the transgo kit. Am I wrong to think it? Thanks for your help and advise....
I have always admired anyone good at their craft no matter what their craft is whether it is an actor or transmission specialist as long as they are good and man he is good I'm mesmerised watching how professional he is and I'm sure he could become a brain surgeon without any problem, top class
nice to have someone familiar with these cvt units to explain what's the problem by experience of working with them. nice videos.
The Pine hollow auto diagnostics channel took a CVT apart from a Nissan Rogue and also found the cobalt ball bearings had grinded away the groves they were supposed to sit in. This caused extra strain on the metal belt and broke it.
I watched that one also.
Ivan is one smart guy!
Thank you!
I almost got taken by a shifty shop. Tried to tell me the TC needed replacing, valve body and pulley. Checked the TC, nothing, checked the valve body, nothing, didn’t know enough about the pulley to check it. Thanks!!!
Kennedy's Transmission, where ever day's arms day.
I recon he moseyed up to the work bench with that transmission under his arm.
Good info, thanks for posting.
This guy really knows what is he doing
Yeah, that's my thinking...Otherwise if I had a Nissan with a CVT Transmission, I'd want this guy to take a look and give it a tune-up; but at least Nissan is trying to improve on their transmissions. Toyota is suppose to have the best CVTs, but hopefully Nissan can change that aspect...
cause cvt transmissions go bad more often than my transmission needs fluid changes
I can watch this video 20k times but I can't really do this man's job. No wonder why TransShop charges so much money because of all this work that they have to go through. My Nissan 2015 CVT failed @ 59k miles. My Toyota Corolla 2017 CVT failed @ 60k miles.
Did you change the transmission oil every 20k miles ?
@@sammax4245 I do it every 30k.
@@robertbolivarr8363
I hope the dealer fixed them for free , they are still under warranty
Although I'm sorry about what happened to your vehicles. However, I'm glad to see you disprove the myth that Toyota CVT's never fail prematurely.
@@honestone490 I'm lucky in a way because, with my Toyota Corolla, the CVT brokedown at 60400 miles which is 400 miles over my 60k under warranty. I just talked to the Toyota corporate office to give me a break because it's just 400 miles over. After a month of begging, Toyota replaced my CVT for free.
You definitely are the poster boy for taking care of your car like you take care of your body. I need a heath coach for both.
I don't have a CVT car and probably will never buy any. I just love to watch the work of good and honest men.
6 tiny ball bearings in groves to operate that shaft? That's a disaster waiting to happen... intentional failer point right there. They couldn't have designed the shaft and drum with splines?
This guy's a beast at transmission I'm having my own transmission worked on now & this cleared up a lot of what I'm paying for its sucks bad that I'm having this problem but hey I got some clearly how much they actually have to do .
Im new to the whole cvt wave but I just want to say I enjoyed your video and found it very informative and educational . Thanks
New wave.. it was invented in 1879
i need to buff my body before working on my transmission
I'm not even doing engine work, just clicked for the arms
For those of us that bought a Vehicle with a CVT transmission. I bought a 2010 Subaru Outback, now has 120,000 miles on it and no CVT fluid change as of yet, and my dealership says it doesn’t need to be changed. Factory warranty period is over.
The question is; does changing the fluid more often solve these types of problems? Then how often to change the CVT fluid? Then what to use? Subaru, Amsoil, Redline, Purple or Valvoline CVT fluid. The list of fluids is endless now days and perhaps the most expensive is not the best choice?
I am currently planning to change when the weather warms up. Do it myself with Valvoline CVT fluid. Buy 7 quarts. Level vehicle on jack stands. Drain thru drain plug. Try to warm the new fluid to between 90 and 105 degrees, Fill thru the fill plug with a manual pump until fluid comes out, start vehicle, cycle thru gears, leave idling and continue to fill until it comes out the fill plug. Try to measure temperature of new fluid in tranny with a laser Temp measurer until around 105 degrees and no fluid dripping from fill plug. Torque drain plug, fill plug, and call it done. Any comments?
These things rarely last to a hundred thousand miles. It usually costs more to replace than the car is worth. Throw away cars are the new business model.
Got 120,000 miles on mine and still perfoms as new. I also change the fluid every 40,000 miles. Maintain it and it will last forever.
I were gonna ask about my vehicle but I think you answered it. The CEILING RING.....I have an 2007 Nissan Murano 3.5L AWD CVT transmission and it cranks fine sounds fine just won't drive foward or reverse. So the ceiling ring is the guilty one that's causing my vehicle not to move.
Outstanding video. Thank you for sharing. I have a 2013 Infiniti JX35 with this cvt and when I dropped the pan I have noticed a few 1 inch long, thin and flexible metal pieces. Should I be worried? I only got the P1778 code which is for stepper motor. Please help.
Nice guns. Excellent tips on disassembly and inspection.
Excellent kenndy explanation
Man as soon as I heard that scraper on the steel table. I miss all that.
Great video... just got a rogue with a cvt and your video cleared up a lot of questions for me
ill stick with my 6 speed automatic thank you very much
These are great, bit at the same time these are sooooo slow :(
Great video. This transmission is scary simple in function and design.
Great video. A disassembly and inspection video of a Honda Civic 10th gen CVT would be amazing!
My wifes Maxima 2011 with 94k on the clock is going in for replacement next week. How can they not admit there is a problem with all these junk transmissions.
Zapsurf 13 because there isn’t. Thousands of cars every year being driven with them without a problem.
CVT's themselves aren't bad just the way Nissan built these ones are pretty shitty newer ones are getting a lot of improvements
I would run for the hills from those cvt rattle snakes😣!
Thanks for the vid tho!
Don’t know if this would be helpful, but I work at a nissan dealer, Nissan now offers parts for repairing pretty much all of there 2013 and newer cvts, they released service bulletins for this, there are several kits that come with new belt and pulley kits that come as an assembly and a box with seals and thrust bearings and a new pump
Bob,I really appreciate the feedback. I have heard that parts were coming from my local Nissan dealers, but have not been able to actually get what we have needed, when we have needed it. I know they have a couple pulley assemblies and valve bodies available, but Nissan apparently has not upgraded the variator; please let me know if you have heard anything different.Thanks,Matt
Kennedy Transmission, CVT & Auto yes very limited on what’s available, they seem to only be releasing enough parts “fix” the problems they are having with them
Hi Sir , do you know if is necesary to remove the forward and reverse cluches for remove the pulley assembly on a Jatco JF015e?
Cheers.
Ricardo,We always disassemble them fully, but you may be able to work the end cover and pulleys out after the valve body has been removed.Thanks,Matt
Kennedy Transmission, CVT & Auto Thanks so Much
Great Video! Good information and Like see a pro work!
I venture to make two suggestions: The Element should have a hole in the middle to accommodate a thin meshed / spun steel wire to keep Elements in tact even at high speed.
The Achilles Heel is the Belt. It is not easy to get it and replace it, therefore, a substitute CVT should be available to replace the malfunctioning one while original is being repaired. It would keep the vehicle functioning. I wonder how long it takes to take out the CVT and install one?
.Wow thanks for posting. I got a lot out if this. I just bought a 2019 Nissan Qushqai It has a CTV transmission I also have a 1997 landscaper 80 it has done over 450,000 klms 279,617.037 miles And beside the recommended transmission servicing It still the same old transmission I know know the Nissan Qushqai will never last as long as that.
Thanks mate! Very informative.
I'm trying to fix a cvt out of a mini Cooper r50 for the first time and tje disassembly has been a challenge! :)
The VT1 can be some work. We have not had one apart in the shop in a while and parts can be tricky to get at times.Thanks,Matt Johnson
Holy heck, I wasn't expecting to see a white go t behind those big arms.
Hi Jeff, first I would like to congratulate Americans to have a wonderful & experienced CVT Transmission Specialist in US. I wish you were in England & sorted my Toyota Verso 2013 1.8 CVT, 120k miles which has started making Grinding, Slipping & engaging noise after going on the left & right turns & going round the roundabouts (slow to medium speed)
Please suggest the cause & cure for it.
Last Transmission fluid change 60k miles but the dealer didn’t change the filter he admitted!! Waiting for your quick reply!
Kind regards
MAK
Un adevarat mesereasi!!!
My 2019 pathfinder with 45000 miles had a CVT. It literally exploded. Worst designed thing ever. My 2005 pathfinder had 322000 miles on it. I will never buy another Nissan or another car with a CVT in it
Thanks for the fantastic video. I have a Dodge Caliber with the JF011E. When it is cold i can get normal forward and reverse motion, as soon as it heats up which is about halfway around a block it no longer moves forward or reverse the RPMs go up but there is no motion. Right before the issues started the trans got louder. I'm about to take it apart, any advice on what to look at first? 85k miles. As far as I know no service has ever been completed.
Why doesn't Jatco put an access cap to get to the flow control valve from the outside?!
Was about to buy a Rouge. CVT killed it for me.
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আমাকে শিখাতে
@@AbuKalam-uk5to .. speak English you moron
I don't know if you were referring to the variator or the transmission, but I used to work for a company in Oklahoma City that remanufactures nissan cvts.
Do you have any video on how to replace the manual valve selector? I think that is the name, it is the lever to change the shifts which is a long one, you may see it in minute 7:19 seconds
Good muscle 🔥
Great info sir! New subscriber question.
On the cvt belt the oem has ridges like the edge of a quarter. I'm rebuilding a jfo15e (12 Nissan versa) the ridges where worm off the belt. The belt is smooth on the sides now not grooved or chewed up just not grooved. (Variator pulleys look great)
Question #1 Can the old belt be reused?
Question #2 I did buy a new aftermarket belt and it has no ridges at all just smooth. Should I use it or the old one?
Just not sure what's best.
Thanks For your time.
So how many reps do you do with with a CVT? lol my man you area beast with the CVT's keep up the amazing work 🙏🏾💪🏾
Hey, great job, thank you for the effort to share your experience with us! Could you please tell the secondary pulley external diameter, as I want to make clamp puller - like yours. Thanks!
Hi, Jeff. Great vids appreciate the straight forward info. CAR: Nissan 08 Sentra, Used, bought with 120,000 miles BUT I missed the TSB for trans repair/replacement; to my knowledge the filter has nvr been changed. I have drained and refilled the trans 4x since, now @170,000. Com. throwing P0745, I'm testing and replacing any faulty solenoids. I removed and cleaned the valve body, new filter, about to reinstall. The visible part of the belt is in good condition, is there a way to manually turn the belt while the V.B. is out to inspect the full length?
Hey I've got a 05 Murano that slips when it gets hot so I know the belt is good so I guess if I replace the valve body or the valves or the solenoids themselves will that fix my problem more or less?
Any chance there is a video that takes out the transmission from a 2005-2007 Ford freestyle, or Montego or Ford 500? My transmission is making that infamous helicopter sound that is in relation to the input shaft going out or the bearings or the sun gear have grinding teeth. Any help is appreciated and thanks in advance for a reply
I have a question where do u guys order your seals for cvts I cant find a front pump seal for my 11 versa 1.8 with a cvt cant find. A seal anywhere
If I had arms like that I wouldn't need a trans jack to R&I ;)
Won't be simply replacing a belt on these like you would on an ATV or snowmobile! Holy heck
Hi, How do you put the ball when you're done. Do you have a video of that. And do you know what could be making nose when I was driving. It's not de bearing. Could it be something else in the differential?
Armand,The sheave bearings need to be inserted with the sheave's inserted together about half way (a piece of foam supporting them at the proper distance is very helpful). As far as the noise is concerned, a differential issue is certainly a possibility, however, we do see a fair amount of issues with the transfer gear bearings.Thanks,Matt
And don’t ever skip arm day 💪🏻
But apparently okay to skip shoulders.
Bill Goldberg working on transmissions!
Man, great video and explanation- thanks. How long did it take you to become a CVT expert? g-
George,We really went deep into CVT's in 2015; largely because we were seeing such high failure rates on the dealership rebuilt units we were installing for our customers. I purchased multiple trailer loads of CVT cores that we disassembled and analyzed for failures. Since we already specialized in European transmissions, I have contacts in Europe that were helpful in obtaining parts. We can now improve on a number of the factory failure points on quite a few units if they require an overhaul.Thanks,Matt
Kennedy Transmission, CVT & Auto Wow, thanks. Best of luck with your business. g-
wow good music good instructions whats up with filling and checking ?on no dip stick?
On the Jatco units without a dipstick, we monitor the temperature on a scan tool as we drive until it is proper (most require 135 degrees f to 165 degrees f) before pulling it in. We leave it running and check it from underneath. We like to see a moderately thin stream from the check port on a full unit at proper temp range.Thanks,Matt Johnson
How is the zf cvt used briefly by ford, i have one with 100k, serviced it twice..whats your opinion on its durability?
You seem very well practiced at your work. Any more vids coming?
Whatever it Takes WIT transmission parts in Louisville Ky has the parts for a ton of transmissions.
@Maciek Bokina always worked out well for our shop. Been open 30 years.
@Maciek Bokina i will sure thing. wit sells sonnax products though.
@Maciek Bokina they build they're own transmissions and sell most all internals at different price points from basic to racing quality parts.
@Maciek Bokina they have a site it shows all they offer. Transtar is pretty good too.
What do you mean when you said Metal in the transmission stepper motor to late
This guy is jacked!
My wife’s 2013 Jeep Compass with the 2.4 liter engine, will go into drive and move forward but not over 20-25 mph. It moves in reverse also. Seems like it is “stuck in 1st gear”. I changed all 4 solenoids as well as the stepper motor but still does the same thing. Any idea or suggestion to try next ? The belt looked in perfect condition when I had the valve body out.
PRIMARY PULLEY STUCK
Damn Jeff, you make it look easy from all your knowledge and experience. I have many questions, answer one or more and I will be grateful.
Given say a Honda Civic, same driving conditions, which type of transmission would like order given the choice, CVT and standard 6spd automatic?
Which type will last longer?
Can a CVT handle high torque\HP power? Do you think sports cars will ever use CVT transmissions?
Thank you for the video.
No if you're looking for sports car transmission then you'll want a straight 6 manual. Automatic transmission are better than CVT if you don't want a manual. That's my opinion. Jeff may have better advice though.
What you mean by the chems I just replaced that but didn’t see no washer or anything for the speed sensor
Does cvt really needs flushing or just drain the fluid?
I have 2012 Nissan Maxima. 158k. Starting to hear cricket sound when accelerating. Finally made complaint to NHTSA about CVT transmission. Apparently if everyone files Complaint about Nissan CVT transmission IT WILL EVENTUALLY BE A RECALL IF ENOUGH NISSAN CVT owner file complaint with NHTSA.
Awesome video! Pro!
Thanks mate....really appreciate.....
Hi Jeff! Considering the most common failure modes of the JF010E (specifically 2009 model). On cars with manual shift mode, is it better for transmission longevity to just put it in drive and let the CVT continually adjust ratios, OR is it better to use the manual shift mode and manually switch ratios only when needed? In stop-and-go city traffic, the CVT can adjust ratios many times per minute, but in that same traffic, I can hold the ratio at 2 or 3 for 10-15 minutes.
Joshua,I would suspect that minimizing the amount of extending and compressing that the primary and secondary variator pulleys do (i.e. using the manual steps and minimizing "shifting") would reduce the wear a little on the 6mm sheave bearings. I do not think it would likely have any benefit for the pulley bearings themselves or the pump and valving. There may be some additional wear at those exact points on the sheave faces, but I have not seen this as an issue before. We recommend replacing the fluid and filter(s) every 30,000 to minimize the internal wear. Thanks,Matt Johnson
Great video! Have question about a whining noise in my cvt. It’s a 2014 Nissan Pathfinder. 90000 km. Just started hearing a speed related whine at about 40km and onward. Other than the whine no difference in performance. Removed bottom pan and magnets were clean showing little wear. Changed filter also fairly clean. I also flushed through 16 litres N.S.-3 until clean. Any help on the whine issue would be greatly appreciated.
Ok so I found out were the whine was coming from! I thought it was from the cvt but wasn’t. I discovered that the rear output seal was leaking and through the jugs and reels ended up replacing the front transfer case and noise is gone! It’s apparently a very common problem for that rear output seal to leak on the transfer case.
Great great video. I subscribed!
Question: can you changed CVT oil and how often from your experience should it be changed? Thanks.
Alan,
Yes, the fluid and filters can be changed. We recommend changing fluid and filters (both the pan and cooler return) every 30,000 miles on the Jatco CVT's.
Thanks,
Matt Johnson
Nice tools
I drive a 20 years old manual Peugeot and had ZERO problems related to transmission. I want to buy a nissan automatic but seeing all these problems I am having second thoughts. An automatic transmission is another thing that can break. And the least reliable seem to be these jatco CVTs.
Hello! can you share jf414e/re4f03c repair service manual
We're can I find it the chain or belt tramsmission Murano 2007 3.5
so many friggin bolts ! ... geez is that guy on steroids ? cool video ...
Who needs to go to the gym wen you can lift car all days lol
Strong man,,..
Hi please tell me questions. Car use transmission cvt about kilometers . It is good.
Nice job
Do you ever think it will be cost effective to fix a broken CVT transmission. For example, my 2011 Nissan Altima 2.5s just died because the CVT died. Had 187,000 miles on it - was very lucky it lasted that long. Fast forward to the future, do you think there will be a time when these transmissions can be cost effectively repaired?
আবুকালাম আৃমিচিকেতেচাই
@@AbuKalam-uk5to ?
I have a CVT with 149,000 miles, its never had its transmission fluid changed before but I heard that it can do more harm than good, it has no problems and I don't want to create any, should I?
Never do a transmission flush. That's what could create future problem. However, it's perfectly safe to do just a drain and fill.
@@honestone490 exactly. I hear some say never ever do drain and fill. They are usually running shops doing flushes with EXPENSIVE machines and they must justify the cost by making some of it back. Hey I'd like to know isn't cleaner fluid better than dark dirty fluid? I'll listen to folks who always changed theirs at 15000-20000. Drain. Fill.
great music
Would changing the fluid improve the lifespan of these CVT's or is it a roll of dice to say if they last?
We recommend changing the fluid and filters every 30,000 - 50,000 miles to all of our customers. These units are very sensitive to debris and frequent services is about the only way to help minimize it.
Thanks,
Matt
You are good bro
Hi Jeff, I have a 2015 altima s (don't know cvt model) and the front desk staff at my dealership tell me to change the cvt fluid at every 60k as opposed to the recommended 30k per the manual. I'm not an aggressive accelerator (only when short highway on-ramps call for it), and live in a mostly flat area in CA. Caring for the longevity of my cvt, what would you consider an appropriate change interval?
We recommend 30,000 mile service intervals to all of our CVT customers. I would recommend the filter(s) be changed as well at that time.Thanks,Matt Johnson
what's the common problem cvt transmission?
Aren't you supposed to unscrew the bolts in a pattern?
no
So has anyone tackled one yet? Good place for parts? I have nothing to loose.
2012 Rogue. Had a wine to the CVT, especially when hot. When accelerating from a stop the RPM’s will go up as they should, but will suddenly drop 500-700 RPM’s then regain a high RPM with no change on load or acceleration. Dropped pan and cleaned everything. I didn’t see anything unusual in the pan or on the magnets (very little friction material). Refilled CVT fluid and after 200 miles did another drain and fill. Wine is gone and the RPM drop and regain during steady acceleration has lessened in severity, but still present. No codes. 55,000 miles. Been doing it for years. Dealer says everting normal. I have two other CVT’s both Altima’s ‘11 and ‘12 and neither jerk rpm nor wine. Any ideas? Thanks! I made a TH-cam video of the RPM drop on a hill. I’ll try and attach link. th-cam.com/video/vgEfTfmtPjg/w-d-xo.html
Fluid was filthy. May have never been changed
Somebody needs a permit for those guns
Jeff from what i know mitsubishi use jatco cvt as well and the failure rate on mitsubishi is a bit low than on nissan,it has something to do with cvt programming for both,mitsubishi is better in their cvt control programming,is that true?
My Mitzubishi Gallant tran went bad😣!
Good thank from indonesia
How many miles is a belt good for on a well kept transmission?
The belts can certainly go over 200K on most CVT's. When we see belt failure, it is generally caused by an underlying issue.Thanks,Matt
Hey Jeff,
Thanks for the informative, to the point video. If I may ask, what would the underlying issue be to cause belt failure?
I have a 2008 Mitsubishi Lancer with a CVT that has been slipping at low speed, and it's throwing a fault code for fluid pressure.
Unfortunately no one in my town in Louisiana that owns a transmission shop wants to work on it. Everyone just wants to replace it, at quite a large cost...and many don't even want to replace it.
Have you heard of a similar issue before? Would it be worth my money to replace the whole thing on a 10 year old car? It only has 68,000 miles on the damned thing. And get this...I only bought it last freakin' week!
Thanks for any advice.
The most common causes for belt failure on the JF011E are the pump flow control valve sticking, sheave bearing wear in the primary variator pulley or being run low on fluid. That being said, if you have any movement at all, we know that the belt is still in tact (although slipping will certainly damage it). The Lancer's generally seem to be pretty good cars so you certainly may want to have the CVT repaired or replaced; particularly with such low mileage. Is the pressure code you are getting a P0868? Are there any other codes?Thanks,Matt Johnson
Matt - The code I'm getting is indeed P0868, as well as P0776 (which is for the Secondary Pressure Control Solenoid - performance or stuck Off).
I had a guy flush it and refill it, and add a CVT additive from a company called BG...drove it for a week, and now it drives fine, with no issues. I'm not so sure about that "fix" though. It's not setting any codes, or slipping/hesitating.
The first owner obviously didn't drive it much, as it's a 10 year old car with only 70,000 miles. They actually traded it in because it started having transmission issues. I found their phone number in the glove box and was able to contact them.
Thing is, it was supposed to be serviced at 60,000 miles and they never did. I've read that CVT transmissions can be very sensitive to dirty fluid. Do you think it's possible that the car not being driven often, coupled with not having the trans. serviced at 60,000 miles could cause junk to clog stuff up that the CVT additive broke free and "cleaned up"? Or, do you think I have an issue that's going to pop back up at some point?
Thanks for any advice Matt. You guys are running a good, honest shop, and I wish I could take my car to you. Wanna open a branch in Louisiana, lol?
I have sentera with 11e ,no fluid discoloring and no part breaking in it.have good line and primery pressure but no goof forward pressure, on idle low on acceleration way height and almost none engagement,as soon as total disengaging start buzzing sound coming from near valve body and pump.would tell me what need to be down next.tnx
Taare,By no good forward pressure, do you mean the secondary pulley pressure is significantly lower than the primary? Are you able to see the primary pressure rise with engine RPM's when there is a lack of acceleration? The buzzing sound may be a pump or fluid supply issue- is the noise similar to that of a whining power steering pump.Thanks,Matt Johnson
P/s noise more like lose belt ,but this more like a fly trap in a jar.vizzzzzzzz.....
Nice
Hi, dear jeff is this a maxima 2010 v6 transmission if yes can you please confirm if there is a paper oil filter in it ?
Ahmed,I believe this JF010E is out of a Murano, but is essentially the same as the JF010E in the Maxima. The filter in the pan is a metal screen type and the auxiliary filter (if equipped) is on the rear of the case (self contained metal canister with filter media). I hope this helps. Thanks, Matt Johnson
I have a maxima with the Reofo9b and i changed the valve body and now it won't drive.. i put it in drive it'll act like it engages in drive but doesn't move and i can't pinpoint anything wrong with it unless i was just sent a faulty valve body.. would you have any idea's on what could be causing this? TIA
Matt,If you did not swap the ROM card from the original valve body to the replacement, you will need to do that (or have the new ROM card flashed with a Nissan scan tool (Consult).Thanks,Matt Johnson
I ended up swapping the sylonoids from the new valve body onto the old valve body but it's still doing the same thing... where is the rom card located?
Just bought a 2009 murano and the trany is bad p0868, Nissan says solenoid internal line pressure regulator. Am i toast or can i have the trany pulled and have the solenoid replaced or fix, might be stuck open? Help. Just wasted 3 grand.
probably needs an oh for that code pull pan and see if magnet is full of metal
@@jeffstepp1969 it had metal. Flushed it and cleaned the valve body. Had sticking primary and secondary valves. Cleaned bore holes and still it has to be the pump valve regular. Heard that they stick or wear our. The transmission runs fine once it starts going. No slipping. The front axle was leaking and I assumed that the metal wear was from the low fluid. Hoping to replace the pump valve with a transgo kit. I dont hear any bearing issues. I'm hoping that once I have the pump valve regular, I'll be set. As long as the pulleys are not bad. Any thoughts? Or it this just a pipe dream?
Codes p0686 pump pressure. Works for a little but when I try to go up a hill or from a stop, not consistent will give a p1746. The p0686 is causing the other code. Drove to shop about 35 min, no issue. Thoughts. My hope is that low fluid caused the metal pieces, maybe for the belt. Saw the belt when I I removed the valve body and looked ok. Cant afford a rebuild for something I just bought.
@@manna5610 the flow control valve in the pump is always worn this cvt its usually worn primary pulley balls and flow valve worn
@@jeffstepp1969 the murano has 190k. That would make sense. I'm sure at this point the flow control is both worn and sticking from a scored bore hole. No bearing noise on the pulleys that I have heard from other you tube videos that give that indication. I think I found a local shop to put in the transgo replacement value, but I dont think they will do the bearings on the pulley. I guess I'll find out when I get to that point. I'm weighting my options before spending another grand on a car I bought and can not drive. I figure 1k is not a bad price to pull the trans and put in the transgo kit. Am I wrong to think it? Thanks for your help and advise....