I like your idea. Thanks for sharing! The way I get bearings off is to put the whole thing in the freezer for a couple hours, then turn a propane torch on the race and heat it up. It helps if someone is aiming the torch. Then take a cold chisel and put it right where the bearing meets the shoulder. A couple whacks and you'll be able to back it off enough to get your puller jaws behind it. The other part is cold enough that it won't even be warm when you touch it. You can do the same for press fit bearings by putting them in the freezer to make them shrink, then get them started easily on a room temperature part. I've rebuilt two transmissions this way and it really works slick!
Perfectly safe as the HAS (Heat Affected Zone) is in the race and the hub isn't brought up anywhere near critical temp for steel. No need to reduce the weld bead length. The video is proof for folks unfamiliar with welding. I like the idea which is ideal for those of us with welders. I've done many by angle grinder (6" diameter cutting disks preferred, if you buy an angle grinder get a 6" so you can use the 6" diameter fine kerf cutting disks, I buy 'em by the box) It also gets around buying a splitter type puller.
I use a flap disc on a 4.5” angle grinder to slowly put a flat in the bearing, once I start seeing the bearing flat going blue, I stop and hit the flatted area with a sharp chisel. Cos the bearing race is made out of hard metal the crack spreads and once its cracked, it comes off with minimal damage to the hub
good work, I found best thing to do just slit the race with a cut off wheel at a 45 deg. angle to the hub without going through just very close and opening the slit with a hammer and a big screwdriver, quick and easy
@@mirzaredjic5131 Just to make you trust this technique: most shops and mechanics use the cutoff wheel and chisel method, even if they used to tell they don't. This is the simplest and cheapest method, although the welded washer seems to be good if you have a thousand of that huge washer.
We just got one of those IR temp guns this week. People say stuff like "What do you need that for?" The answer is that we need it for all kinds of stuff, including things we haven't even found out about, yet. Nice job - it is great that you share what you learn and/or know. There are many ways to skin a cat. Thanks for posting.
If you don't wanna use so much time and effort doing this welding trick > I would suggest using grinder and cutting disc without cutting to the hub and finishing off the cut with chisel and hammer. The bearing race is hard and in tension and will crack and comes off easily.
Never ceases to amaze me how some people can put their gray matter to good use. How much time would you have spent banging the crap out of the bearing. Nice job.
Drill through the race vertically close to the hub then smack it with a cold chisel to split the material that is left.No heat to worry about and no need to buy a tig welder and find/fabricate a big washer to weld.
hello it is a no name puller I bought it maybe 16 years ago. similar to this www.princessauto.com/en/detail/4-in-dual-jaw-gear-puller/A-p8046018e?storeId=10 If you search google for "cr-v puller 2 jaw " you will find some. This Tekton www.amazon.com/TEKTON-5681-3-Inch-2-Jaw-Puller/dp/B000NPT68O?th=1 I think has a lifetime warranty(not 100% sure). Here is where you can buy them direct from china scroll down the page you will see them www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20170220223459&SearchText=2+jaw+puller Tekton also sells
singlecams Wow you had yours for 16 years... Ya I can tell it's a very good quality puller. I did look on amazon and I did see those teckton ones but they just look very weak. And all other ones also look cheap. Yours looks very good.
Hi thanks i'm pretty sure mine is the same as the cheap cr-v ones the only thing is different is the pilot on the end is spring loaded and can go in and out now they just make it like a cone shape
Nice to see an alternative method but its not a great one, what would work better is weld a tab and walk it off with an air chisels. Dont use a puller in this application, the force bends the race inward and amplifies the force needed to remove the race, the tabs bend and break as a result.
hi please see this imgur.com/a/eKfch wheel hubs can fail for other reasons. Using the laser temp i can measure how much heat am i putting into the hub by welding on it. That is why i made really small welds that were also short in length to keep the heat down. Now im not sure at all maybe you can put a lot of heat into the hub without causing problems but if you don't have to use a lot of heat then that is better. But first I want to know what kind of heat is created with those small welds and we can see that with the laser temp gun there is not much heat at all with those welds and it dissipates very quickly. Hope that makes sense?
adding to my last reply sorry :) you can also use that temp gun to see where the heat is going too, was the heat going just up or was it going down into the face of the hub etc. I wouldnt use it next time I do this I thought it would be helpful for all you guys to see how much heat is made when I did it :)
Unfortunately I have no welding equipment. This has though given me an idea of cutting a lateral groove in the race for a puller to latch onto. I've not had much luck with the hammering technique. Never liked hammering stuff anyway, I'm definitely with you on finding more civilized ways!
I tried the bearing seperator on a 2000 echo hub.. not much room to grab it really but the cutoff wheel and chisle saved the day.. the hardest part was removing the hub via slide hammer.. note to self(and first timers): make sure the axle splines are not stuck to the hub, prior to pulling your fingers out of the socket .. cheers
1mm cutting disc cut an angled slot / or \ in the bearing as deep as poss without damaging flange, take a sharp cold chisel and place it on slot and a couple of blowd with a hammer and yhe bearing race will split open releasing from the flange .... 2mins work and no heat required
IF YOUR A REAL WELDER A 2 OR 3. 1/2" LONG TACK WELDS iS ALL THAT NEEDED. i have tack welded a tow bar to steel bumper on 5 ton truck with 2, 1/2" tack welds on each tow bar arm joint an towed it home 12 miles up an down hills and turns, many times
You could also lay a bead down and cut a notch in it to give you a lip to hook the puller on so that you don't have to use a hole saw and a big ass washer
Для внутренней обоймы есть много правильных способов, один из них сепаратный съёмник, остальные - болгарка, зубило, молоток. Нет никакой нужды использовать сварку.
If you can't cut the inner race off a hub in less than 5 minutes, then you're doing it wrong. It only takes me about 5 minutes to cut it and hit it with an air hammer.
Yeah.... but I can pull all 4 in 5 minutes and I dont got to cut or hit anything. I would think the person tig welding washers to races has cut races before and knows what they are doing....this is something different I posted for you.
5 min? I can weld and pull all 4 in 5 min , of course it take long time on video to show how it is done. Also there is no banging , risk of damage so I think it is pretty good. Especially if you use hubs for racing. 1 Honda hub plus wheel studs is over $150USD when you cut into it or stick hub into vice to bang it with chisel who wants to do that.
Unfortunately if you have no welder the only simple way to do it is to cut them off. You can buy a $30 grinder and a disk and go at it, be careful , wear a dustmask and eye protection. Go slow and down cut all the way through.
These honda hubs are very expensive and discontinued it takes a lot of heat for it to "fall right off" which you dont want to put into a track car hub. You also dont want to risk cutting into it either.
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I like your idea. Thanks for sharing!
The way I get bearings off is to put the whole thing in the freezer for a couple hours, then turn a propane torch on the race and heat it up. It helps if someone is aiming the torch. Then take a cold chisel and put it right where the bearing meets the shoulder. A couple whacks and you'll be able to back it off enough to get your puller jaws behind it. The other part is cold enough that it won't even be warm when you touch it.
You can do the same for press fit bearings by putting them in the freezer to make them shrink, then get them started easily on a room temperature part. I've rebuilt two transmissions this way and it really works slick!
Perfectly safe as the HAS (Heat Affected Zone) is in the race and the hub isn't brought up anywhere near critical temp for steel. No need to reduce the weld bead length. The video is proof for folks unfamiliar with welding.
I like the idea which is ideal for those of us with welders. I've done many by angle grinder (6" diameter cutting disks preferred, if you buy an angle grinder get a 6" so you can use the 6" diameter fine kerf cutting disks, I buy 'em by the box) It also gets around buying a splitter type puller.
I use a flap disc on a 4.5” angle grinder to slowly put a flat in the bearing, once I start seeing the bearing flat going blue, I stop and hit the flatted area with a sharp chisel. Cos the bearing race is made out of hard metal the crack spreads and once its cracked, it comes off with minimal damage to the hub
good work, I found best thing to do just slit the race with a cut off wheel at a 45 deg. angle to the hub without going through just very close and opening the slit with a hammer and a big screwdriver, quick and easy
Same as me.When it cracks,it expands,so you can remove it sometimes even with bare hands.
@@mirzaredjic5131 Just to make you trust this technique: most shops and mechanics use the cutoff wheel and chisel method, even if they used to tell they don't. This is the simplest and cheapest method, although the welded washer seems to be good if you have a thousand of that huge washer.
👍
We just got one of those IR temp guns this week. People say stuff like "What do you need that for?" The answer is that we need it for all kinds of stuff, including things we haven't even found out about, yet.
Nice job - it is great that you share what you learn and/or know. There are many ways to skin a cat.
Thanks for posting.
I used mine last week to check the temperature of different areas in my smoker. Not just for checking exhaust manifold temp.
How to take a pulley off of a power steering pump
Awesome,now i just need to buy a welding machine and then learn how to weld
Just cut the inner race with a grinder and knock out with a hammer
Nice technique. The ole chisel and cutting wheel method never failed me though.
But takes to damn long and the hub gets cut into also.
I've been into the hammer and chisel method, the cutting wheel, etc. but by far the best it's the puller. Less sweat and simply easier. :-)
If you don't wanna use so much time and effort doing this welding trick > I would suggest using grinder and cutting disc without cutting to the hub and finishing off the cut with chisel and hammer. The bearing race is hard and in tension and will crack and comes off easily.
Never ceases to amaze me how some people can put their gray matter to good use. How much time would you have spent banging the crap out of the bearing. Nice job.
This app is very useful because although I am a qualified mechanic I have learned new skills
good and unique approach to a tough problem
Drill through the race vertically close to the hub then smack it with a cold chisel to split the material that is left.No heat to worry about and no need to buy a tig welder and find/fabricate a big washer to weld.
Very nice!. please, tell me how do you film welding process. I can't do still. greetings!
3 tools. Grinder , chisel, hammer 😉
You're welcome.
I learned something today! Great video.
Very nice gear puller what brand is that? All I can find is non crv and they all look cheap
hello it is a no name puller I bought it maybe 16 years ago. similar to this www.princessauto.com/en/detail/4-in-dual-jaw-gear-puller/A-p8046018e?storeId=10 If you search google for "cr-v puller 2 jaw " you will find some. This Tekton www.amazon.com/TEKTON-5681-3-Inch-2-Jaw-Puller/dp/B000NPT68O?th=1 I think has a lifetime warranty(not 100% sure). Here is where you can buy them direct from china scroll down the page you will see them www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20170220223459&SearchText=2+jaw+puller Tekton also sells
singlecams
Wow you had yours for 16 years... Ya I can tell it's a very good quality puller. I did look on amazon and I did see those teckton ones but they just look very weak. And all other ones also look cheap. Yours looks very good.
Hi thanks i'm pretty sure mine is the same as the cheap cr-v ones the only thing is different is the pilot on the end is spring loaded and can go in and out now they just make it like a cone shape
Nice to see an alternative method but its not a great one, what would work better is weld a tab and walk it off with an air chisels. Dont use a puller in this application, the force bends the race inward and amplifies the force needed to remove the race, the tabs bend and break as a result.
what was that instrument laser pinter that gave some kind of data? thanks
hello it is a "laser thermometer" (search in google) it shows temperature in F or C where laser is pointing , it cost around $20
singlecams Ohh, I am familiar with those but didn't understand why it was used in this video. ? thanks for clarifying.
hi please see this imgur.com/a/eKfch wheel hubs can fail for other reasons. Using the laser temp i can measure how much heat am i putting into the hub by welding on it. That is why i made really small welds that were also short in length to keep the heat down. Now im not sure at all maybe you can put a lot of heat into the hub without causing problems but if you don't have to use a lot of heat then that is better. But first I want to know what kind of heat is created with those small welds and we can see that with the laser temp gun there is not much heat at all with those welds and it dissipates very quickly. Hope that makes sense?
adding to my last reply sorry :) you can also use that temp gun to see where the heat is going too, was the heat going just up or was it going down into the face of the hub etc. I wouldnt use it next time I do this I thought it would be helpful for all you guys to see how much heat is made when I did it :)
singlecams ohh yeah for realz, now I understand. thanks for sharing...
Grinder works just fine
Are you using the torch to weld
Unfortunately I have no welding equipment. This has though given me an idea of cutting a lateral groove in the race for a puller to latch onto. I've not had much luck with the hammering technique. Never liked hammering stuff anyway, I'm definitely with you on finding more civilized ways!
I tried the bearing seperator on a 2000 echo hub.. not much room to grab it really but the cutoff wheel and chisle saved the day.. the hardest part was removing the hub via slide hammer.. note to self(and first timers): make sure the axle splines are not stuck to the hub, prior to pulling your fingers out of the socket .. cheers
1mm cutting disc cut an angled slot / or \ in the bearing as deep as poss without damaging flange, take a sharp cold chisel and place it on slot and a couple of blowd with a hammer and yhe bearing race will split open releasing from the flange .... 2mins work and no heat required
Nice if you have a welder and puller...I just cut them off with a cheap grinder fitted with a 1.5mm cutting disc.
Never see anyone doing like you.
Great arc.. what welder?
thanks it is a everlast tig welder
like every diy man has a welder to hand
Best tool to remove stuck and stubborn rear wheel hubs too.
IF YOUR A REAL WELDER A 2 OR 3. 1/2" LONG TACK WELDS iS ALL THAT NEEDED. i have tack welded a tow bar to steel bumper on 5 ton truck with 2, 1/2" tack welds on each tow bar arm joint an towed it home 12 miles up an down hills and turns, many times
you didnt like my welds Arnold? they were nice lol . thats right all you need is some quick tacks :)
@@singlecams nothing wrong with your weld, just dont need good welds to be so long
nice bead on the weld
thank you
Freakin genius! This would have taken forever to figure out on my own
complicated solution for a simple problem, saw and chisel five min or less and no heat cracks to worry about
Pittsburg Large Wheel Bearing Separator (Harbour Fright) + Press (12 tons) = done deal
thanks for the share!.. I agree with CJBMAGGOT94.. after making a groove with a cutting wheel.. one good hit and cracks VERy easily..
You could also lay a bead down and cut a notch in it to give you a lip to hook the puller on so that you don't have to use a hole saw and a big ass washer
thats good idea too
that impact ratchet works wonders am I right! lol
Folks must understand that some will utilize the TIG at any possible opportunity.
cutting and chisel will be my preferred still.
Для внутренней обоймы есть много правильных способов, один из них сепаратный съёмник, остальные - болгарка, зубило, молоток. Нет никакой нужды использовать сварку.
Mig a small bead then use an air chisel, fastest method I ever figured out. It doesn't heat treat the hub either.
thats a great idea dubs
great! The smartest way to do this job!
Зачем так сложно ?
If you can't cut the inner race off a hub in less than 5 minutes, then you're doing it wrong. It only takes me about 5 minutes to cut it and hit it with an air hammer.
Yeah.... but I can pull all 4 in 5 minutes and I dont got to cut or hit anything. I would think the person tig welding washers to races has cut races before and knows what they are doing....this is something different I posted for you.
Thank you for your great details video
is so great to watch some one using hus brains 😍👀
Esa jalada ..metes el disco de corte,,y zas
impact wrench on gear puller? makes me cringe but...to each his own.
nice trick used to take out bearing race, appreciable.
nicely done
Or cut it diaganol to break the ring and then hit it off
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i like this
Too much extra work man hammer an chisel fast an furious
Waste of time, this come out for 5 min. with another method
5 min? I can weld and pull all 4 in 5 min , of course it take long time on video to show how it is done. Also there is no banging , risk of damage so I think it is pretty good. Especially if you use hubs for racing. 1 Honda hub plus wheel studs is over $150USD when you cut into it or stick hub into vice to bang it with chisel who wants to do that.
singlecams what is the best method for taking these wheelbearing off the hub without having a welder.
Unfortunately if you have no welder the only simple way to do it is to cut them off. You can buy a $30 grinder and a disk and go at it, be careful , wear a dustmask and eye protection. Go slow and down cut all the way through.
try that th-cam.com/video/f2UMq7rtUko/w-d-xo.html
singlecams ahh OK thanks
you don't need to all that mess
just cutting it alot more easy
U don’t need west you time. Just use grander cut a bit. Come out
very good
Just heat up the race…. Falls right off.
These honda hubs are very expensive and discontinued it takes a lot of heat for it to "fall right off" which you dont want to put into a track car hub. You also dont want to risk cutting into it either.
You have to much time on your hands I would loose money doing it that way
zip saw and chisel...half the time and work...
Now get some finger nail clippers.
Para nada practico
good one
thanks for watching
Genius
good idea
thank you buddy
They make tools for that, you know...
How to dimple die with a bearing race th-cam.com/video/usyUiAaZI4I/w-d-xo.html
singlecams 0g
sir can you please tell me what tool you did use on this video, the puller one. I need it for my research.
Problem solved.
You couldve just cut it
just make a simple cut!!!
c, Kwabena Addo
, Kwabena Addo
Fucking method just take hammer and small rod easily you do or cut with weld only 1 min
nice man thx
thx good idea! :)
genious
thank you for watching
thanks for good info, but the vid could have been 1min instead of 5,
Orqazm
Too much hassle, id rather use hammer a chisel.
It only take 30 sec how long your grinder and chisel take
@@singlecams wow imma amazed, i dont use a grinder, only 3 precise hits.
@@marioarroyos142 man I never seen that either honda hub I would like to see it will u post a video
Just buy a new hub when replacing the bearing!!!! Saves time and headache
SOK JÓ OKOS ÖTLETEKET AD KÖSZI.
No effort whatsoever
thumbs down! not everyone is a Tigger.
u could just use a chisel and be done in less time without a big welder….
c, Kwabena Addo