You convinced me. I'm working on a 1987 suburban and it did not have the high pressure switch in the R4 compressor. I'm doing a Sanden FLX7 conversion and i'll now put a binary switch on the factory high side R12 port, factory low side switch on the accumulator will be wired in series. Will also cut the (new)factory hose set and crimp in a couple of R134 ports. That has a added benefit of extending the hose a couple inchs for the VA sanden bracket and keeps me from needing to use those leaky R12 to R134 fitting adapters.
Great video thank you. I have been trying to figure out why I have both a binary and trinary switch on my receiver dryer. It's an aftermarket install.... Seems like it is redundant safety that won't hurt...
Thanks for the great video and information. Quick question if you have a second: We have a VA system using a stock mechanical fan, but we're getting some overheating. So, we are adding an additional pusher electric fan to help out. This fan will be mounted in front of the condenser. We had originally been planning to just stay with the binary switch and splicing into the compressor activation wire into the fan controller. However, we read about how VA recommends trinary switches for electric fans, so we were now making plans to change out the binary to a trinary switch. But, after doing more reading, and watching your video, I'm wondering if that is completely necessary. The VA system has worked well with the mechanical fan, even when the engine runs hot. If the main benefit of the trinary switch is to get the fan turned on early, knowing that with a binary switch our fan will turn on immediately, is there another reason to go with the trinary switch over a binary when using both a mechanical and auxiliary electric fan? Thank you for any advice and for the great video.
The trinary switch's third function is to turn the fan on when the system is at optimum pressure. We don't recommend pusher fans as an addition because they can often create cavitation between the two fans and limit the amount of airflow through the system. Typically we recommend going to a single large electric puller fan like the ones from Cooling Components. If your engine only gets hot when running the AC then yes you could use the compressor trigger wire to trigger a relay to run the fan, but if the overheating happens when the AC is not on then you'd be better off running a temp sender in the engine block to trigger the fan relay - Travis
Yes, safety switches, whether it's a binary or trinary only go in the #6 lines between the condenser and the evaporator. All of our safety switch options can be found here: www.affordablestreetrods.com/shop-for-parts/vintage-air-performance-air-conditioning/safety-switches-safety-switch-fittings/
Great video.. thank you~🏆 I can barely reach the low pressure switch.. silly question.. how do I remove it? (please don't say "carefully" .. ha) Is there a special tool~?
Need help with wiring vintage air with the efi sniper unit and trinary switch I have dual fans already wired one to the unit direct and one to a solid state relay can u help
I am trying to install an aftermarket 12V ac unit. It came with a binary pressure switch and a 80C/176F temperature sensor/switch, you mention engine temperature any idea where I should mount this? Maybe just somewhere on the side of the condenser? Should I just swap it out for a trinary and not even bother? Much appreciated if you can find the time to respond.
Your binary safety switch should be used if you have a mechanical cooling fan on your engine, if you have an electric fan for engine cooling then you will want to swap out to the trinary switch. Either way the safety switch is usually screwed into the front of the drier on Vintage Air systems, sometimes they have a special connection in the line for them if the drier does not have provisions for the safety switch. Your temp sender should go in your intake manifold (or sometimes in a head if you don't have a spare spot in your intake). - Travis
Would this system still activate the A/C fan when the car is at cruise speeds? Or would the air flow through the condenser drop the high side pressure enough to turn the fan off?
austinmaxi Any time the system hit the limits of the trinary switch, it would trigger the fan circuit. Most of the time while driving you should have enough air flow that it wouldn’t need to activate the fan.
We sell them at www.affordablestreetrods.com/parts-department/air-conditioning/safety-switches-safety-switch-fittings/ You have the choice between male and female threaded trinary switches
You just made it easy for anyone who wants to do this themselves Thank you for taking the time to make this video
Thank you for such a simple and straight forward explanation.
You convinced me. I'm working on a 1987 suburban and it did not have the high pressure switch in the R4 compressor.
I'm doing a Sanden FLX7 conversion and i'll now put a binary switch on the factory high side R12 port, factory low side switch on the accumulator will be wired in series. Will also cut the (new)factory hose set and crimp in a couple of R134 ports. That has a added benefit of extending the hose a couple inchs for the VA sanden bracket and keeps me from needing to use those leaky R12 to R134 fitting adapters.
Excellent presentation, clear and simple to understand.
Great video thank you. I have been trying to figure out why I have both a binary and trinary switch on my receiver dryer. It's an aftermarket install.... Seems like it is redundant safety that won't hurt...
Thank you for easy to understand explanation. I really appreciate it
You are welcome!
Super clear. Thank you.
Well Done! This will be very helpful. Thank You!
You're welcome!
Nice job sir
Thanks for the great video and information. Quick question if you have a second: We have a VA system using a stock mechanical fan, but we're getting some overheating. So, we are adding an additional pusher electric fan to help out. This fan will be mounted in front of the condenser. We had originally been planning to just stay with the binary switch and splicing into the compressor activation wire into the fan controller. However, we read about how VA recommends trinary switches for electric fans, so we were now making plans to change out the binary to a trinary switch. But, after doing more reading, and watching your video, I'm wondering if that is completely necessary. The VA system has worked well with the mechanical fan, even when the engine runs hot. If the main benefit of the trinary switch is to get the fan turned on early, knowing that with a binary switch our fan will turn on immediately, is there another reason to go with the trinary switch over a binary when using both a mechanical and auxiliary electric fan? Thank you for any advice and for the great video.
The trinary switch's third function is to turn the fan on when the system is at optimum pressure. We don't recommend pusher fans as an addition because they can often create cavitation between the two fans and limit the amount of airflow through the system. Typically we recommend going to a single large electric puller fan like the ones from Cooling Components. If your engine only gets hot when running the AC then yes you could use the compressor trigger wire to trigger a relay to run the fan, but if the overheating happens when the AC is not on then you'd be better off running a temp sender in the engine block to trigger the fan relay - Travis
binary switches are only on the hight side lines? also do you have a link for the safety switch adaptor fitting (threaded)
Yes, safety switches, whether it's a binary or trinary only go in the #6 lines between the condenser and the evaporator. All of our safety switch options can be found here: www.affordablestreetrods.com/shop-for-parts/vintage-air-performance-air-conditioning/safety-switches-safety-switch-fittings/
Great video.. thank you~🏆
I can barely reach the low pressure switch.. silly question.. how do I remove it? (please don't say "carefully" .. ha)
Is there a special tool~?
All of our binary & trinary switches are both low and high pressure switches in the same unit so I'm not sure what you're working with. Sorry!
I have a 1970 camaro id like to get vintage air put on do u do installs where is ur shop located
Hi you said on trinary switch for e fan turns on at 254 pounds,but a what pressure turns off ,thanks in advance
Thank you sir
You're welcome
Need help with wiring vintage air with the efi sniper unit and trinary switch I have dual fans already wired one to the unit direct and one to a solid state relay can u help
Thanx
Nice job boss
I am trying to install an aftermarket 12V ac unit. It came with a binary pressure switch and a 80C/176F temperature sensor/switch, you mention engine temperature any idea where I should mount this? Maybe just somewhere on the side of the condenser? Should I just swap it out for a trinary and not even bother? Much appreciated if you can find the time to respond.
Your binary safety switch should be used if you have a mechanical cooling fan on your engine, if you have an electric fan for engine cooling then you will want to swap out to the trinary switch. Either way the safety switch is usually screwed into the front of the drier on Vintage Air systems, sometimes they have a special connection in the line for them if the drier does not have provisions for the safety switch. Your temp sender should go in your intake manifold (or sometimes in a head if you don't have a spare spot in your intake). - Travis
@@affordablestreetrods thanks for your reply. I should have mentioned this is not a pulley driven compressor and is powered instead by a battery bank.
Would this system still activate the A/C fan when the car is at cruise speeds? Or would the air flow through the condenser drop the high side pressure enough to turn the fan off?
austinmaxi Any time the system hit the limits of the trinary switch, it would trigger the fan circuit. Most of the time while driving you should have enough air flow that it wouldn’t need to activate the fan.
good video sir
Where can I get a trinary switch from?
We sell them at www.affordablestreetrods.com/parts-department/air-conditioning/safety-switches-safety-switch-fittings/ You have the choice between male and female threaded trinary switches
Okay cool so I’ll use the binary switch with my mechanical fan.