This video is unbelievably helpful. I have scoured the internet and this is the clearest and most straightforward troubleshooting video for a very frustrating and annoying problem. One question, do the PTO and starter switches need to be checked? Thx
You will need to set you meter to read low voltage DC to check the starter and electric PTO. You can check the starter voltage at the large wire connected to the terminal on the starter. The PTO voltage should be checked with the wire unplugged so there is no chance of engaging the blades while testing. Ensure all other safety switches are set so the blades will engage(seat, and reverse if present). You should have 12 plus volts between the two plug connections pins.
Leaving praise here too for the clear, logical, thorough explanation of these switches, but also the brevity and understandability of the presentation- MAJOR THANK YOU!!! But it is cool to see that it's a good video when you find dozens of comments praising you already! Followed and liked! A credit to bald eagles everywhere!
@kidritalin1 Thank you for sharing your comment! Your feedback means the world to us. It's incredibly uplifting to hear from viewers who have discovered solutions through our videos. We hope to see you around in the future as well. Wishing you all the best! 😊👍
@@GeraldAlan-ix6dx it shouldn’t matter. The solenoid should work either way. You can check the solenoid wire for 12 volts with the key on if you have a test light or multi meter. If you have no way to test for voltage you can spray a small amount of fuel or starting fluid directly into the carb. If it fires and dies with the wire on the side of the engine disconnected there’s a good chance it’s stuck shut and not working properly.
The solenoid is not clicking. I checked the battery when it wouldn’t start, but it is a new battery from August. It started fine and after I filled the bags and emptied them. It wouldn’t start. That’s when I checked out your site. ??
You're Unusual in that, after only 15 seconds, and that of a relative subject, you're Already Talking about the title subject. Better than unusual, Rare! 🏆 THANK YOU! Subscribed.
Excellent video. Thank you so much. I have an old Bestgreen mower with no cutting deck which pulls small trailer around our property. Very useful it is too. This morning it wouldn't start. I knew it would be safety switch related, but had no idea where they were. As I'd been meaning to disconnect them all at some point, this was the opportunity to do it. Found the under seat switch and afrwe testing with a meter shorted out the two white wires. Still no start. Eventually found the switch under the parking brake - same type of switch so shorted out the same. Still no start. Spent over an hour trying to find another switch - which I knew must be related to the Brake/clutch but I couldnt find it anywhere. Google is my friend and I hit your excellent video first go. 5 mins later I knew where to look, found it, shorted it out and BINGO! She runs perfectly so I finished the job by removing all unnecessary levers and clutter. Thank you so much and best wishes from an Englishman living in France!
Finally…. This test tutorial is absolutely spot on, clearly presented.. after the first view you have plan…me being me, i did watch it twice…. All BaldEagle staff… thank you so much….
Hey man. Just wanted to thank you. Just bought this exact model and it kept dying. Watches your video and figures out it was the reverse switch that went bad. You are awesome!
@@ronhutton9739 I appreciate that very much. I’m here to help anyway I can. A lot of common problems have probably already been answered in previous videos or comments under the video. 😁👍
I saw this add here about replacing windows. Sure, anyone can do it, so can you. It's simple really. I replaced 33 in my home, bought from home depot. Took less than 20 minutes each. Repainting the trim takes the longest time. GOOD LUCK but it really is easy. I did one room per day and was done in about 2 weeks.
Thanks, John! I've received quite a few comments about these switches lately. Hopefully, this will help a few people to understand them better. Thanks for watching!
This was an excellent video right to the point and simplified explanation of all the safety switches, wish your videos were around at least a decade ago 👍
+@brianhenson6141 Thanks for watching! Hopefully you’ll find other videos I’ve posted interesting or useful. th-cam.com/play/PL5_ZXmQpcjpac4UV8OW8g-IWVCR8tqy79.html&si=RKfnQL-PAcZFy67a
@C T Thank you so much for sharing your comment! Your feedback means the world to me. It's incredibly uplifting to hear from viewers who have discovered solutions through my videos. I genuinely hope to see you around in the future as well. Wishing you all the best! 😊👍
Supremely helpful video! Now I know my issue is the brake switch, but thanks the whoever engineered the YT3000 series decided the best place for the switch was directly on top of both the deck pulley assembly and the brake linkage itself! Virtually no room to let the old switch just fall down without first taking both assemblies completely off! A 10 minute job (at most) is now close to an hour. More if you run in to new problems resulting from removing everything that shouldn't have needed removal in the first place! Thank you, Mr Craftsman "I've never actually worked on a lawn mower" Engineer!
This was the professional way of doing it made easy to understand quickly. No cutting corners or running jumper wires, i like this. You got a sub outta this one!
Thanks, Stella. Next to carbs it’s the main reason I pick these mowers up cheap. Im still trying to figure out what formats work for me and which ones don’t. I’ve always heard your first 100 videos are should all be experimental. I haven’t noticed anything negative from either format but it definitely attracts a different age group of viewers. Thanks for stopping by. 🦅🇺🇸
I would truly like to thank you for this video. I'm having a problem with my mower and I have a much clearer understanding of how exactly everything is supposed to work Thanks again Hopefully with your video I will be able to get my mower running again
Thanks for the tips. I had the engine cover all already, so I use the wire right off the coil for the diagnostics. Found I had an intermittent seat switch. Put some wd40 and worked by hand about 20 times (wd40 is non conductive) fixed that. Test the rest of the switches and all worked per your walkthrough. The end culprit was also a blown 20amp fuse… so, key wasn’t giving power to starter relay nor the carburetor solenoid. Engine cranks now.
+@cueballsi Thanks for watching! Here’s a link to other videos I’ve posted that you may find useful. th-cam.com/play/PL5_ZXmQpcjpac4UV8OW8g-IWVCR8tqy79.html&si=RKfnQL-PAcZFy67a
Thanks Baldeagle242, I just acquired my first Lawn Tractor, a JD X300 2007 FH491V 2007 (just like the one in your video regrading surging - thanks!). I have no spark but cranks issue and unplugged the wire to the coil (mine has a connector already in place where you cut this one) and once disconnected it will start and run and shut off at the key switch. I set the voltmeter for continuity and when I turn on the key, no matter what I do the beeping never stops. Your video doesn't state the switches need to be checked one by one or in any certain order but that was my approach. First of all I set the emergency brake and made sure the PTO button is off (pushed down). Pushing the seat down does not stop the beeping took switch out and depressed by hand, still beeps. I do notice the fuel solenoid clicks when I depress the seat switch. I had thought it was the ECM but thought I would go through the switched first since it seems the only way to test the ECM is to bypass it but a bad switch can identify the same I believe. Any advice? Thanks.
@@careypruett9602 From what you’re explaining it sounds like a bad carburetor solenoid or the ECM under the dash. The X300 is a little different from the mower shown in this video. If the ECM goes out it will mimic a safety switch issue. This is a video I made on the X300 issues. 👇 Troubleshooting John Deere ECM No Start: How To Diagnose The Issue th-cam.com/video/MZGeSEVz5wQ/w-d-xo.html
@@baldeagle242 Thanks for the response. I had already watched your video regarding the ECM issues and decided the check the switches first. I have just installed a knockoff ECM ($40 Amazon), reconnected the black wire and it starts and drives fine. Woohoo! But the PTO does not engage. Again this IS my first rodeo and I'm not sure if I'm holding my toungue out just right or not. ;) I lowered the deck and tried, raised the deck and tried, parking brake on/off, cruise button is down, throttle up / down and several combinations of the above. Could it be the new cheap ECM is faulty or is there something else to look for. Your videos have been great and helped me with so much already. I know I'm getting close to cutting my first blade of grass with this thing! tks.
@@careypruett9602 I’ve used the cheap ECMs myself with no problems but anything is possible. The 2007 John Deere X300 does have a fuse for the mower deck electric PTO (Power Take-Off) clutch. It’s part of the electrical system that controls the engagement of the mower deck. Open the hood and look for the fuse block, which is usually under the hood near the battery or behind the dash panel. There should be a fuse labeled for the PTO clutch or mower deck. The fuse is typically a standard automotive-style blade fuse, often around 15-20 amps. If the clutch isn’t engaging, check the fuse and replace it if it’s blown. If the fuse keeps blowing, there might be an underlying electrical issue, such as a short circuit or a problem with the clutch itself.
One thing is when i first got the mower, I tried to push it with out disengaging the hydro. I only tried shoving it a few times with no luck and searched up the fact you are not supposed to move it with the hydro engaged. Are they that easily damaged? I didn't force it by towing or anything else, just leaning my body weight on it. The machine supposedly worked before I got it but had "starting issues".
Thanks for this. I was pulling my hair out because I am generally pretty good with a wrench or a soldering iron, but it took me an hour to figure out that the circuit for the seat safety on mine was open circuit for on instead of closed.
Thanks, Bill. A lot of people make them out to be more complicated than they are. Hopefully this simplifies things enough for a few people to successfully figure out some common problems. Thanks for watching. 🦅🇺🇸
Excellent video. Very clear and easy to understand. My Craftsman lawn tractor recently stopped working after running for a while. It starts alright but when I try to release the clutch/break pedal the engine stalls/stops. Could this be because of a faulty switch under the clutch/beak pedal? Thank you.
+Slippery Johnson Glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching! Here’s a link to other videos I’ve posted that you may find useful. th-cam.com/play/PL5_ZXmQpcjpac4UV8OW8g-IWVCR8tqy79.html&si=RKfnQL-PAcZFy67a
Wow. Great video. I have a no start no click issue, so far all I tested was the battery and the main fuse. Can't wait to try this tomorrow, I'm sure it's gotta be something in this loop. Crazy cuz I was just running it , stopped it for 5 min then nothing.
Oh Yes !!! Nothing but Awesome brother!! Ray Charles can see that is an easy way to diagnose safety switches. 😀 Such a great job, easy to follow and understand. Outstanding editing and commentary, thanks for sharing Steve.
Hello,, I was looking through some videos regarding safety switches and discovered your TH-cam channel. I wanted to let you know that I am now one of your subscribers - So I guess that you are stuck with me(LOL).
+@editotrujillo3182 Thanks for watching! Hopefully you’ll find other videos I’ve posted interesting or useful. th-cam.com/play/PL5_ZXmQpcjpac4UV8OW8g-IWVCR8tqy79.html&si=RKfnQL-PAcZFy67a
This video was extremely helpful, thank you! Thought I knew what my problem was and replaced both the starter solenoid and brake interlock switch with no luck. I was about to disable the seat safety switch when I found this video. I went through the test procedure and found that my seat switch was good. My problem seems to be the PTO. Do you have any other videos that cover diagnosing/troubleshooting the PTO clutch?
Awesome job Bald eagle!! I'm going back out to try this on my Cub Cadet Ultima Z1. It has been driving me nuts trying to figure this out. Your video inspired me. LOL. Thanks again Steve.
You’re welcome. Just keep in mind that fuel will run out of the bottom of the carb once you loosen it up. I’d recommend pinching off the fuel line and taking precautions to catch the fuel.
This is great advice! But I’m not sure which black wire I am starting with. Mine looks a little different. If I use the black wire off of the starter solenoid then I am getting the beep constantly. Should I just start unplugging switches to see if any stop the beeping?
If your unsure you can follow the wire up to your coil(s) and attach your test lead there. You may have to remove the plastic cover on the engine to get to it this way.
+@jamesfletcher1874 Thanks for watching! Here’s a link to other videos I’ve posted that you may find useful. th-cam.com/play/PL5_ZXmQpcjpac4UV8OW8g-IWVCR8tqy79.html&si=RKfnQL-PAcZFy67a
Just found your channel and subscribed because of the great information and the way you teach with a no nonsense simple explanation approach. BTW, I have a 2015 Cub Cadet XT1 LT46 that still runs perfect. My complaint however is the piece of sh*t seat which has fallen apart. But, try to find a good seat (so far impossible for me) and I refuse to pay Cub Cadet $249.00 for another piece of sh*t. What do you recommend? I would like a heavy duty one and NOT the thin vinyl that came with it. Any ideas?
It’s been a while since I’ve bought anything other than the less expensive aftermarket seats. I’ve often wondered what an upholsterer would charge to redo one but I’ve never looked into it. Thanks for subscribing. 😁👍
+@icusawme2 Thanks for watching! Here’s a link to other videos I’ve posted that you may find useful. th-cam.com/play/PL5_ZXmQpcjpac4UV8OW8g-IWVCR8tqy79.html&si=RKfnQL-PAcZFy67a
Great video. I have a question. I've got a snapper nxt2346. It has the push button start/stop switch. When I shut the mower off, the switch and the dash stay turned on and drain battery. Only way to kill the power is to pull the fuse out that's under the dash. Any clues or help?? Thanks in advance.
Hello! Great video! Very understandable and you get right at it! I have a Poulan similar to what you used for the video,hit a cable rope in grass which wrapped around blades and stalled motor. Removed cable,turn key to start,nothing. No attempt to start whatsoever. In your opinion do you think I twisted the motor out of timing? I would think if I did so the mower would at least turn over.
@@baldeagle242 Eagle! Man o man.. I`ll tell you what. Last year I had this no start issue which you tried to help me with and I did numerous things to check it out. Even took it a repair fella I grew up with but "luckily" he was closed that day and I brought mower back home. So I went and bought a new JD120 from Home Depot brought it home ...looking it over in the garage and my son comes over to check it out. After shooting the breeze for awhile....son goes over to the "broken" mower ....the old Craftsman Polan....and I`m bellie aching on about it and he says..."Dad...you know the blade activation lever is in the "on" position right"??? I about fell over right there! He pulls it down in the off position and turned the key and it fired right up!! Now ....I can NOT explain....how completely freekin stupid I felt and STILL do!! I couldn`t bring myself to muster up the courage to touch base with ya and tell ya about it. But now.....a year later....before I die.....had to come clean ol boy. As a kid during summer vacations we used to tear old mowers apart and put them back together. So...the know how is there.....but perhaps the common sense is starting to slip in this old 67 yr old knucklehead. Anyhow Eagle....hope this at least brought a smile! Signed....Idiot
@@francisjames57 That’s funny. I’m happy to hear it was nothing serious. 😁👍 I’ve went to pick mowers up in the past from people who have had the same issue. I politely ask them if they’ve tried to start the mower with the blades disengaged. It’s something I need to start asking before I go down a rabbit hole. 😉👍
informative video! However, my craftsman also has RELAYS in addition to the switches. So now I am troubleshooting switches and relays. any suggestions on simplest methods of doing so? Thanks
You're doing a good job on your video. and it is a very easy a more effective way to find the problem.on One of your videos would you like to explain all the reasons for not bypassing safety switches?I think you could help people have a lot less accidents that would be great.as always thank you so much for the video great job have a great day
Thanks, Don. I recorded a little bit on why you shouldn't bypass the safety switches, but it didn't turn out the way I wanted. In the end, I cut it out of the video and stuck to how to fix them. Thanks for watching. I'll put something together for a future video about this issue.
@@baldeagle242 Thank you I really appreciate your work and time you put in your video It's not as easy as people might think. But I think you do a good job 👍 I had a friend that bypassed low oil switch on a Honda he was soon sorry 😐
Picked up a little tractor off the side of the road I’ve been trouble shooting. The problem I’m having now is that when I engage the PTO lever the engine cuts off. I suspect the safety switch is the issue but not certain. I have the mower deck removed so there is no binding. When I hold the lever in the off position it will start but will kill the engine when it starts to move to the on position.
That sounds like a safety switch. The video below will show you a quick and easy way to troubleshoot the switches without knowing much about the electronics of the mower. 👇 th-cam.com/video/dTBJi2BOlVg/w-d-xo.html
Sir. Very precise indeed! Have you done this on a Snapper 2013 RER 210, as it's called, "Turtle"? I'm trying this same idea myself. I don't know if I've found all the safety swithes. Thank you.
Excellent and out of the box thinking. I have a Cub cadet where when you turn the switch to start it, the starter gear rises up but it doesn't turn the flywheel it just seems to run out of momentum. Will any of those switches affect that?
None of the safety switches will have an effect on the starter gear. I would however double check to make sure the positive and negative cables are not reversed on your battery.
Great videos. If the engine turns over when key is turned, does that mean all 3 safety switchs are operating properly. Hence, I can eliminate safety switches as reason mower won't start. In other words, does a bad switch always present itself as a disconnected battery.
On most AYP and MTD mowers this is true. When you get into some of the higher end John Deere or commercial fuel injected models you will still be able to crank them with safety issues but no fire. On must residential mowers if it cranks the safety switches are normally good. Most common issue with a crack and no fire is the carb solenoid followed by a shorted wire (mouse?)
@@baldeagle242 Thanks. I've replaced the carb, plug, coil, and gas and cleaned all the dirt from safety switches and can only manage a short, halfway start when gumout is sprayed in the carb, then it quickly dies. Don't know what to do next. Murray 425000 with B&S motor.
@MrLMJohnson If it’s firing with gum out sprayed directly into the carb I’d suspect the solenoid on the bottom of your carburetor is stuck shut. First check to see if it possibly came unplugged. It requires power to open the solenoid to allow fuel into the main jet of the carburetor. I don’t recommend disabling it but there are plenty of videos on TH-cam showing you how to cut the stopper off. If you choose to do this I would suggest replacing it after you confirm it’s bad.
The solenoid on the old and new carbs are engaging. The old one was slow at first, but not the new carb. I found a bent push rod on the exhaust side. Aluminum. Just received the replacement today and will install tomorrow.@@baldeagle242
my J Deere has lasted so long that all my wires have gone bad. and each one failed halfway thru mowing. to the point the only thing worth saving is the engine. but not before i wasted my time re wiring everything. tranny was final straw. thanks for the tips , i have started same scenario with another mower so....
I've had a few like that myself over the years. Unfurtenetly all good things must end at some point. Good luck with the other mower. Hopefully nothing too serious. Thanks for watching.
My father has an old Craftsman 917.271060 that I'm trying to fix-up for him. Already replaced mower deck components, but noticed while testing that the parking brake won't engage. I looked under the hood and can see it's just a half-inch shy of where I believe the lever would be able to engage it. I was going to order a new rod brake hydro (part #169498) because I thought it must be damaged (one of the old spindles was bent, along with a really bent blade, so I know he hit something HARD). I'm wondering now if maybe the nuts near the brakes just need to be adjusted one way or the other (?) Thanks if you have any suggestions. I will continue to browse your vids but coming up with nothing on finding any 'parking brake adjustment' or 'rod brake hydro' help. Thank you!
Without seeing it myself it’s difficult to say exactly. There’s not much to it. If you look underneath as you (or a helper) try to engage it, that may give you a better understanding of what’s going on under there. It’s definitely possible that something is broken off or bent to where it doesn’t catch.
Thank you for the reply. Very kind of you. Yeah, I'm trying to wrap my head around it. With the brake pedal fully engaged, the lever is just barely shy of being able to lock it in, so my initial thoughts were that the brake rod must've got bent by the deck during a collision with a tree root or whatever. I hoped maybe it was something you had seen a time or two. Thanks again. I like the way you present your vids! Best wishes- @@baldeagle242
Thank you. I do have a question, though. I have no power to the key switch to activate the start solenoid to the starter. But if I turn the key to the run position, I can cross the battery poles, and it will activate the start solenoid, and it will run. Is this a safty switch issue or a key switch issue? How do you determine that? Thank you in advance for any help. Sorry, info craftsman 15.5 hp 42 inch deck
See if you’re getting power to the primary side of the solenoid when you turn the key to start. If you are the problem is most likely your solenoid. If not it’s most likely your key switch.
Did all your test and seem good. Not getting any voltage on the white wire on the sol. Jumping with a screw driver with kill wire off it stars right up. Any ideas? Sol is good and test of brake and seat switch seem good.
We will need to check a few more things before I can answer that. Are you getting 12 volts on the solenoid engagement wire when you turn the key? If not you possibly have a loose wire on the key switch or a bad switch. If you are it’s probably a bad connection at the solenoid or a bad solenoid itself.
@@baldeagle242 Got it running and noticed sparks down by the shield. It was the + wire going to the carb sol. Think that was why I keep blowing fuses. thanks for responding!
Hey I’m having problems with my cub cadet I put a brand new wireing harness and key switch and got the brake sensor tested and the pto switch tested there good but it still don’t have power to the key switch and the battery is off
I have a 2003 craftsmans LT 2000 lawn tractor with a 17 horse Kohler engine. The lawn tractor runs; however, after warming up the engine just cuts off as if I had turned the key to the off position. There's no coughing or sputtering noise as if engine wasn't receiving enough gas or air. The carberator was replaced in 2022. Ihave replaced the fuel filter, fuel line, oil filter, and changed the oil. Any thoughts as to next steps? Reply
@Kenneth Flowers Thank you for sharing your comment! Your feedback means the world to us. It's incredibly uplifting to hear from viewers who have discovered solutions through our videos and share their own experiences. We genuinely hope to see you around in the future as well. youtube.com/@baldeagle242 Wishing you all the best! 😊👍
My LT1000 has new-working battery, new solenoid, new starter, good battery ground, turn key and cranks to compression point and stops. battery meter shows battery at 12 volts but drops under load to 8 or so. Any guesses as to my problem/fix?
It sounds like the compression release has broken on your camshaft. I mentioned it around the 1 minute and 15 second mark in this video and show you what it looks like. th-cam.com/video/8VxTRqJZi0Q/w-d-xo.html
+@RealToolReviews Thank you! Here’s a link to other videos I’ve posted that you may find useful. th-cam.com/play/PL5_ZXmQpcjpac4UV8OW8g-IWVCR8tqy79.html&si=RKfnQL-PAcZFy67a
Bald eagle, do you give advice on specific pieces of equipment. I have a Husqvarna rider 155, 2003 version residential zero turn unit. I got it running for the season ran for five minutes while I was getting ready to cut and it all of a sudden died out. I put my tools away sit on it and I have no click I’ve replaced the solenoid tested all the kill switches and I still have no click. I just saw this video of yours but I don’t know where that black wire for the coil is and it also distinctly says don’t cut this and try to run your unit so that’s a little confusing help the grass is getting long. Ron
You don’t want to cut that wire and try to use your machine. Cutting it is for testing components only. If it died and won’t click that could be a few things. Are you sure the battery is still good?
Id first clip your test light onto a good ground point and then test the starter solenoid for power on the small solenoid wire(not the battery wire) It should have power when you hold the key in the start position.
I have an 2007 John Deere X300. When I drew up the. Wiring diagram for the starter relay I left something out can you help me find the right schematic. Every one I find is for a different model.
is the plug that goes into the interlock switch mower dependent? On my ztr the switch on the handle has a broken wire at the connector. It's a 2 wire connector.
@@virgilsmith5792 This is a common issue in some mowers, and the plug can be specific to the brand or model, but many interlock switches and connectors follow standard designs across various manufacturers. However, it’s essential to check the mower’s manual or part number to ensure compatibility when replacing or repairing the connector. If the connector isn’t specific to the mower, generic replacements could work, but it’s best to confirm wiring diagrams to be certain.
The solenoid on the carb will have no effect on the other switches. It is supplied with 12 volts DC when the key is on. All other safety switches work strictly with continuity to ground out the ignition coil and prevent it from creating spark. Here is another video I posted earlier this year that may help to troubleshoot your problem. th-cam.com/video/dTBJi2BOlVg/w-d-xo.html
Our problem is the lawn mower shuts off when the brake pedal is RELEASED. It has new ignition switch, new brake switch, new solenoid, good ground, 12 v at battery. Would a bad seat switch cause this to happen?? We have power to seat safety switch, if we get off seat it still runs.
There should be continuity at the seat switch but there should never be any power or voltage. Assuming for now you’re talking about continuity and not power… Yes, it sounds like your seat safety switch is not working. When you depress the brake switch it effectively bypasses the seat safety switch. When you engage the blades this re-enables the seat safety switch even if the brake pedal is pressed. Some of the safety switches have two circuits (4 connection points) this allowed the switches to work similarly to how a two way light switch works in your house. If either switch is turned on or off it will complete or break the circuit. It’s slightly different on your mower but it’s something that tends to make sense to most people when I explain it that way. From what your saying I have to assume you have a seat safety switch with 4 connection points. If that’s true you either have a bad switch, a bad connection or a broken or damaged wire.
@@baldeagle242 Hello again, we replaced the seat switch and tested the seat harness both are good. The mower starts but continues to shut off when the brake pedal is released. (Once again, new ignition switch, new blade switch, new brake switch, new seat switch, new solenoid, good battery.) The only thing left is a new wiring harness...which they are out of stock everywhere. Frustrated and feel like a dummy. It must be a simple thing, because it starts and runs good but I can't find the problem.
IMy son has a Troy Bilt TB30R (the small rear engine mower). There is one connector that is in the vicinity of the battery and starter, that is not connected. It is just a 2 wire connector, red and green. I assume green is ground and red is power, and the wires are part of a large wire bundle. The leads on the connecter are fairly short, so it could not go very far. Any ideas what might be going on? Obviously, we do not see any corresponding connectors that are not engaged. The mower will not start, much like if a safety switch is not working. Any help appreciated
I don’t recall the colors for the wire connections but generally the safety circuits are black wires. It’s possible the connection your talking about would be for the charging system. Without tracing the wires down it would be difficult for me to be certain what that plug is for. I would start by checking to see if either wire connects to ground or power before trying to connect it to anything. Hooking it up someplace it shouldn’t be could cause damage somewhere else.
I am having issues with my craftsman riding mower. I have done everything I can think of. Engine start right up every time,new pto switch, good fuse, no brake switch found, runs but when brake is released engine dies. I have checked seat and works fine also belt are in good condition. Can you contact me. I need help please??
No, that would probably be the larger negative ground wire for the battery or starter solenoid. The black wire your looking for will trace back under the shroud cover on the top of the engine and attach to the coil(s) with a quick connection.
@@baldeagle242 I found a white wire coming from the connector that has a larger barrel connector with heat shrink wrap that connects to a black wire that runs under the plastic. Looks like the manufacturer wire (scag )that connects to Kawasaki engines wiring
Difficulty shifting a riding mower while the engine is running could be due to issues with the clutch, transmission, or the belt tension. Ensure the clutch is fully disengaged, and check for any debris or damage around the shifting mechanism.
+@BillVacca Thanks for watching! Here’s a link to other videos I’ve posted that you may find useful. th-cam.com/play/PL5_ZXmQpcjpac4UV8OW8g-IWVCR8tqy79.html&si=RKfnQL-PAcZFy67a
![⭐️( ลอยกระทง 2024 ) Ver. แดนซ์ Remix BY [ ดีเจกิต รีมิกซ์ ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/rMWOLhgXUHc/mqdefault.jpg)
This video is unbelievably helpful. I have scoured the internet and this is the clearest and most straightforward troubleshooting video for a very frustrating and annoying problem. One question, do the PTO and starter switches need to be checked? Thx
You will need to set you meter to read low voltage DC to check the starter and electric PTO. You can check the starter voltage at the large wire connected to the terminal on the starter. The PTO voltage should be checked with the wire unplugged so there is no chance of engaging the blades while testing. Ensure all other safety switches are set so the blades will engage(seat, and reverse if present). You should have 12 plus volts between the two plug connections pins.
Finally someone checking a mower with the solenoid on the carb. Thanks.
😁👍
Leaving praise here too for the clear, logical, thorough explanation of these switches, but also the brevity and understandability of the presentation- MAJOR THANK YOU!!! But it is cool to see that it's a good video when you find dozens of comments praising you already! Followed and liked! A credit to bald eagles everywhere!
@Gusflix Thank you very much. 😁👍
What a GREAT video ! You got right into the mechanics, theory, and problem solving in 8 minutes time. This is a lifetime lesson for me. Thank you.
@kidritalin1 Thank you for sharing your comment! Your feedback means the world to us. It's incredibly uplifting to hear from viewers who have discovered solutions through our videos. We hope to see you around in the future as well. Wishing you all the best! 😊👍
9:20
That was one of the most informative posts I have ever seen. Especially since I have a LT 2000 mower. It’s almost identical. Thank you so much.
You’re welcome! Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comments. 😁👍
When you check the solenoid, have you already cut the black wire or before?
@@GeraldAlan-ix6dx it shouldn’t matter. The solenoid should work either way. You can check the solenoid wire for 12 volts with the key on if you have a test light or multi meter.
If you have no way to test for voltage you can spray a small amount of fuel or starting fluid directly into the carb. If it fires and dies with the wire on the side of the engine disconnected there’s a good chance it’s stuck shut and not working properly.
The solenoid is not clicking. I checked the battery when it wouldn’t start, but it is a new battery from August. It started fine and after I filled the bags and emptied them. It wouldn’t start. That’s when I checked out your site. ??
@@baldeagle242 The solenoid is not clicking when I turn the key on. Battery charger says it is fully charged, but nothing.
This video is very thorough and well thought out. Thank you!
You're Unusual in that, after only 15 seconds, and that of a relative subject, you're Already Talking about the title subject. Better than unusual, Rare! 🏆
THANK YOU!
Subscribed.
Thank you! 😁👍
Excellent video. Thank you so much. I have an old Bestgreen mower with no cutting deck which pulls small trailer around our property. Very useful it is too. This morning it wouldn't start. I knew it would be safety switch related, but had no idea where they were. As I'd been meaning to disconnect them all at some point, this was the opportunity to do it. Found the under seat switch and afrwe testing with a meter shorted out the two white wires. Still no start. Eventually found the switch under the parking brake - same type of switch so shorted out the same. Still no start. Spent over an hour trying to find another switch - which I knew must be related to the Brake/clutch but I couldnt find it anywhere. Google is my friend and I hit your excellent video first go. 5 mins later I knew where to look, found it, shorted it out and BINGO! She runs perfectly so I finished the job by removing all unnecessary levers and clutter. Thank you so much and best wishes from an Englishman living in France!
Finally…. This test tutorial is absolutely spot on, clearly presented.. after the first view you have plan…me being me, i did watch it twice…. All BaldEagle staff… thank you so much….
Thank you for taking the time to leave a comment! We appreciate it very much. Let us know how it works out on your mower. 😁👍
Good teaching.
Precise and to the point.
A REAL safety engineer.
Thank you sir.
Thank you, and thanks for taking the time to leave a comment. 😁👍
Hey man. Just wanted to thank you. Just bought this exact model and it kept dying. Watches your video and figures out it was the reverse switch that went bad. You are awesome!
That’s great that you were able to fix it. 😁👍
Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment!
@@baldeagle242 just subscribed to your channel, looking forward to checking out your other videos
@@ronhutton9739 I appreciate that very much. I’m here to help anyway I can. A lot of common problems have probably already been answered in previous videos or comments under the video. 😁👍
I saw this add here about replacing windows. Sure, anyone can do it, so can you. It's simple really. I replaced 33 in my home, bought from home depot. Took less than 20 minutes each. Repainting the trim takes the longest time. GOOD LUCK but it really is easy. I did one room per day and was done in about 2 weeks.
by far the best video on this issue. My mower's issue exactly! Tired of the poor build on these
Thank you.
Clear, concise and simple to follow instructions Steve, thank you for the video. 👍
Thanks, John! I've received quite a few comments about these switches lately. Hopefully, this will help a few people to understand them better. Thanks for watching!
Anytime brother, they should really appreciate this video then.
This was an excellent video right to the point and simplified explanation of all the safety switches, wish your videos were around at least a decade ago 👍
+@brianhenson6141 Thanks for watching! Hopefully you’ll find other videos I’ve posted interesting or useful. th-cam.com/play/PL5_ZXmQpcjpac4UV8OW8g-IWVCR8tqy79.html&si=RKfnQL-PAcZFy67a
Excellent job and you explain everything perfectly and simply done !
Thank you.
This vid saved my mower. One of the best on TH-cam.
@C T Thank you so much for sharing your comment! Your feedback means the world to me. It's incredibly uplifting to hear from viewers who have discovered solutions through my videos. I genuinely hope to see you around in the future as well. Wishing you all the best! 😊👍
Supremely helpful video! Now I know my issue is the brake switch, but thanks the whoever engineered the YT3000 series decided the best place for the switch was directly on top of both the deck pulley assembly and the brake linkage itself! Virtually no room to let the old switch just fall down without first taking both assemblies completely off! A 10 minute job (at most) is now close to an hour. More if you run in to new problems resulting from removing everything that shouldn't have needed removal in the first place! Thank you, Mr Craftsman "I've never actually worked on a lawn mower" Engineer!
Great video!! Straight to the point, a huge help, Thanks!!
Thank you. 😁👍
Best interlock video I've seen. Thank you for putting the cookies on the bottom shelf. very informative video
This was the professional way of doing it made easy to understand quickly. No cutting corners or running jumper wires, i like this. You got a sub outta this one!
Thank you! 😁👍
Seen some new mowers now adding safety on mower chute. Getting crazy trying to fix stuff.
I’ve seen that on a few push mowers but haven’t run across any on riders yet.
This is a great troubleshooting tip for the safety switches, thanks for posting.
You’re welcome. Thanks for watching. 😁👍
I see you've gone back to long form content 👍 Seriously, anyone should understand this easily. Cheers!
Thanks, Stella. Next to carbs it’s the main reason I pick these mowers up cheap. Im still trying to figure out what formats work for me and which ones don’t. I’ve always heard your first 100 videos are should all be experimental. I haven’t noticed anything negative from either format but it definitely attracts a different age group of viewers. Thanks for stopping by. 🦅🇺🇸
Great video Steve. This should help a lot of folks In need of some safety switch info.
Thanks Alex. I tried to keep it as simple as I could. Thanks for watching. 😁👍
I would truly like to thank you for this video. I'm having a problem with my mower and I have a much clearer understanding of how exactly everything is supposed to work
Thanks again
Hopefully with your video I will be able to get my mower running again
Thank you. If you have any questions don’t hesitate to post them here or check other replies of left.
Thanks for the tips. I had the engine cover all already, so I use the wire right off the coil for the diagnostics. Found I had an intermittent seat switch. Put some wd40 and worked by hand about 20 times (wd40 is non conductive) fixed that. Test the rest of the switches and all worked per your walkthrough. The end culprit was also a blown 20amp fuse… so, key wasn’t giving power to starter relay nor the carburetor solenoid. Engine cranks now.
+@cueballsi Thanks for watching! Here’s a link to other videos I’ve posted that you may find useful. th-cam.com/play/PL5_ZXmQpcjpac4UV8OW8g-IWVCR8tqy79.html&si=RKfnQL-PAcZFy67a
Great tutorial, I been working on mowers over 45 years and didn't knnow this trick. Thanks for sharing.
You’re welcome. Thanks for watching. 🦅🇺🇸
Thanks Baldeagle242, I just acquired my first Lawn Tractor, a JD X300 2007 FH491V 2007 (just like the one in your video regrading surging - thanks!). I have no spark but cranks issue and unplugged the wire to the coil (mine has a connector already in place where you cut this one) and once disconnected it will start and run and shut off at the key switch. I set the voltmeter for continuity and when I turn on the key, no matter what I do the beeping never stops. Your video doesn't state the switches need to be checked one by one or in any certain order but that was my approach. First of all I set the emergency brake and made sure the PTO button is off (pushed down). Pushing the seat down does not stop the beeping took switch out and depressed by hand, still beeps. I do notice the fuel solenoid clicks when I depress the seat switch. I had thought it was the
ECM but thought I would go through the switched first since it seems the only way to test the ECM is to bypass it but a bad switch can identify the same I believe. Any advice? Thanks.
@@careypruett9602 From what you’re explaining it sounds like a bad carburetor solenoid or the ECM under the dash. The X300 is a little different from the mower shown in this video. If the ECM goes out it will mimic a safety switch issue. This is a video I made on the X300 issues. 👇
Troubleshooting John Deere ECM No Start: How To Diagnose The Issue
th-cam.com/video/MZGeSEVz5wQ/w-d-xo.html
@@baldeagle242 Thanks for the response. I had already watched your video regarding the ECM issues and decided the check the switches first. I have just installed a knockoff ECM ($40 Amazon), reconnected the black wire and it starts and drives fine. Woohoo! But the PTO does not engage. Again this IS my first rodeo and I'm not sure if I'm holding my toungue out just right or not. ;) I lowered the deck and tried, raised the deck and tried, parking brake on/off, cruise button is down, throttle up / down and several combinations of the above. Could it be the new cheap ECM is faulty or is there something else to look for. Your videos have been great and helped me with so much already. I know I'm getting close to cutting my first blade of grass with this thing! tks.
@@careypruett9602 I’ve used the cheap ECMs myself with no problems but anything is possible.
The 2007 John Deere X300 does have a fuse for the mower deck electric PTO (Power Take-Off) clutch. It’s part of the electrical system that controls the engagement of the mower deck.
Open the hood and look for the fuse block, which is usually under the hood near the battery or behind the dash panel.
There should be a fuse labeled for the PTO clutch or mower deck.
The fuse is typically a standard automotive-style blade fuse, often around 15-20 amps. If the clutch isn’t engaging, check the fuse and replace it if it’s blown. If the fuse keeps blowing, there might be an underlying electrical issue, such as a short circuit or a problem with the clutch itself.
@@baldeagle242 All three are fine, I even checked them for resistance and all three check out ok.
One thing is when i first got the mower, I tried to push it with out disengaging the hydro. I only tried shoving it a few times with no luck and searched up the fact you are not supposed to move it with the hydro engaged. Are they that easily damaged? I didn't force it by towing or anything else, just leaning my body weight on it. The machine supposedly worked before I got it but had "starting issues".
Thanks for this. I was pulling my hair out because I am generally pretty good with a wrench or a soldering iron, but it took me an hour to figure out that the circuit for the seat safety on mine was open circuit for on instead of closed.
I’m glad it was helpful. 😁👍
I don't work on riders but I might now with all this helpful content nice one Steve !
Thanks, Bill. A lot of people make them out to be more complicated than they are. Hopefully this simplifies things enough for a few people to successfully figure out some common problems. Thanks for watching. 🦅🇺🇸
Excellent video. Very clear and easy to understand.
My Craftsman lawn tractor recently stopped working after running for a while. It starts alright but when I try to release the clutch/break pedal the engine stalls/stops. Could this be because of a faulty switch under the clutch/beak pedal?
Thank you.
Yes, it’s likely a bad switch or connection.
Nice! I have an issue with my mower dying when I release the brake and I don't know what switch it is. Now I can check. Thanks
+Slippery Johnson Glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching! Here’s a link to other videos I’ve posted that you may find useful. th-cam.com/play/PL5_ZXmQpcjpac4UV8OW8g-IWVCR8tqy79.html&si=RKfnQL-PAcZFy67a
Wow. Great video. I have a no start no click issue, so far all I tested was the battery and the main fuse. Can't wait to try this tomorrow, I'm sure it's gotta be something in this loop. Crazy cuz I was just running it , stopped it for 5 min then nothing.
Hopefully this will help to narrow down your problem. Let me know how it works out. 😁👍
Oh Yes !!! Nothing but Awesome brother!! Ray Charles can see that is an easy way to diagnose safety switches. 😀 Such a great job, easy to follow and understand. Outstanding editing and commentary, thanks for sharing Steve.
Thanks T-Bone. Hopefully it will help a few people out. Thanks for watching my friend.
@Baldeagle242 it definitely will help many people!! Great job brother!
@@RaleysSmallEngines A big hello to you from Mark In Kentucky.
Hello,, I was looking through some videos regarding safety switches and discovered your TH-cam channel. I wanted to let you know that I am now one of your subscribers - So I guess that you are stuck with me(LOL).
Thank you for the life saving video sir. Great service to the community.🙃
+@editotrujillo3182 Thanks for watching! Hopefully you’ll find other videos I’ve posted interesting or useful. th-cam.com/play/PL5_ZXmQpcjpac4UV8OW8g-IWVCR8tqy79.html&si=RKfnQL-PAcZFy67a
This video was extremely helpful, thank you! Thought I knew what my problem was and replaced both the starter solenoid and brake interlock switch with no luck. I was about to disable the seat safety switch when I found this video. I went through the test procedure and found that my seat switch was good. My problem seems to be the PTO. Do you have any other videos that cover diagnosing/troubleshooting the PTO clutch?
At this time I do not. Next time I come across that issue I will make a video though.
What a time saver!! Thanks for sharing!!
You’re welcome. Thanks for watching. 😁👍
I like that kill wire disconnect plan for testing, will prob do that on my JD SX85 as I test my safety switches :-)
Awesome job Bald eagle!! I'm going back out to try this on my Cub Cadet Ultima Z1. It has been driving me nuts trying to figure this out. Your video inspired me. LOL. Thanks again Steve.
Let us know what you find. 😁👍
@@baldeagle242 Right off the bat my solenoid under the carb is not clicking.
@@marksanders3237 it’s pretty common for those to fail. You can replace them without removing the carburetor on most mowers.
Thanks so much. We appreciate ya!!
You’re welcome. Just keep in mind that fuel will run out of the bottom of the carb once you loosen it up. I’d recommend pinching off the fuel line and taking precautions to catch the fuel.
Once again easy to follow and clear advice. Thanks Steve. 🙂🚜🐻 Bear Queensland Oztralia
Thanks Greg. I’m always happy to see you stop by. 😁👍
@Baldeagle242 Thanks Steve, i have been unwell so have not been around much. 🙂🚜🐻
@@gregmaxfield4405 I hate to hear that my friend. 😔
You have my prayers and well wishes. I sincerely hope you feel better soon.
This is great advice! But I’m not sure which black wire I am starting with. Mine looks a little different. If I use the black wire off of the starter solenoid then I am getting the beep constantly. Should I just start unplugging switches to see if any stop the beeping?
If your unsure you can follow the wire up to your coil(s) and attach your test lead there. You may have to remove the plastic cover on the engine to get to it this way.
Excellent video to help me sort my problem with my mower.
+@jamesfletcher1874 Thanks for watching! Here’s a link to other videos I’ve posted that you may find useful. th-cam.com/play/PL5_ZXmQpcjpac4UV8OW8g-IWVCR8tqy79.html&si=RKfnQL-PAcZFy67a
Good job thank you, if i take my foot off the brake the motor stop if I engage mower deck the motor stop. I guess I need to buy two switches ?
That’s probably a seat safety switch. It doesn’t realize your sitting on the seat.
Thanks for this. Definitely helped me out.
Just found your channel and subscribed because of the great information and the way you teach with a no nonsense simple explanation approach. BTW, I have a 2015 Cub Cadet XT1 LT46 that still runs perfect. My complaint however is the piece of sh*t seat which has fallen apart. But, try to find a good seat (so far impossible for me) and I refuse to pay Cub Cadet $249.00 for another piece of sh*t. What do you recommend? I would like a heavy duty one and NOT the thin vinyl that came with it. Any ideas?
It’s been a while since I’ve bought anything other than the less expensive aftermarket seats. I’ve often wondered what an upholsterer would charge to redo one but I’ve never looked into it. Thanks for subscribing. 😁👍
Excellent, informative video. Short and to the point. Thanks!
+Art Ramirez Thank you! I hope to see you around on future videos. 😁👍
I'm pretty sure the carb solenoid is out on my mower. I'll have a new one tomorrow to confirm. Thanks for the great video.
+@icusawme2 Thanks for watching! Here’s a link to other videos I’ve posted that you may find useful. th-cam.com/play/PL5_ZXmQpcjpac4UV8OW8g-IWVCR8tqy79.html&si=RKfnQL-PAcZFy67a
Great info Steve on how to check safety switches .
Thank you 😁👍
@@baldeagle242 your welcome ☺
Great video. I have a question. I've got a snapper nxt2346. It has the push button start/stop switch. When I shut the mower off, the switch and the dash stay turned on and drain battery. Only way to kill the power is to pull the fuse out that's under the dash. Any clues or help?? Thanks in advance.
+Ohio 24 without any further diagnosis i’d say you have a bad switch.
Just found your channel you have good information.
Thank you! 🦅🇺🇸
Hello! Great video! Very understandable and you get right at it! I have a Poulan similar to what you used for the video,hit a cable rope in grass which wrapped around blades and stalled motor. Removed cable,turn key to start,nothing. No attempt to start whatsoever. In your opinion do you think I twisted the motor out of timing? I would think if I did so the mower would at least turn over.
It probably sheared (or partially sheared) the flywheel key.
@@baldeagle242 thanks eagle!
@@francisjames57 Any time my friend. Good luck with it.
Let me know what you find.
@@baldeagle242 Eagle! Man o man.. I`ll tell you what. Last year I had this no start issue which you tried to help me with and I did numerous things to check it out. Even took it a repair fella I grew up with but "luckily" he was closed that day and I brought mower back home. So I went and bought a new JD120 from Home Depot brought it home ...looking it over in the garage and my son comes over to check it out. After shooting the breeze for awhile....son goes over to the "broken" mower ....the old Craftsman Polan....and I`m bellie aching on about it and he says..."Dad...you know the blade activation lever is in the "on" position right"??? I about fell over right there! He pulls it down in the off position and turned the key and it fired right up!! Now ....I can NOT explain....how completely freekin stupid I felt and STILL do!! I couldn`t bring myself to muster up the courage to touch base with ya and tell ya about it. But now.....a year later....before I die.....had to come clean ol boy. As a kid during summer vacations we used to tear old mowers apart and put them back together. So...the know how is there.....but perhaps the common sense is starting to slip in this old 67 yr old knucklehead. Anyhow Eagle....hope this at least brought a smile! Signed....Idiot
@@francisjames57 That’s funny. I’m happy to hear it was nothing serious. 😁👍
I’ve went to pick mowers up in the past from people who have had the same issue. I politely ask them if they’ve tried to start the mower with the blades disengaged. It’s something I need to start asking before I go down a rabbit hole. 😉👍
informative video! However, my craftsman also has RELAYS in addition to the switches. So now I am troubleshooting switches and relays. any suggestions on simplest methods of doing so? Thanks
You're doing a good job on your video. and it is a very easy a more effective way to find the problem.on One of your videos would you like to explain all the reasons for not bypassing safety switches?I think you could help people have a lot less accidents that would be great.as always thank you so much for the video great job have a great day
Thanks, Don. I recorded a little bit on why you shouldn't bypass the safety switches, but it didn't turn out the way I wanted. In the end, I cut it out of the video and stuck to how to fix them. Thanks for watching. I'll put something together for a future video about this issue.
@@baldeagle242 Thank you I really appreciate your work and time you put in your video It's not as easy as people might think. But I think you do a good job 👍 I had a friend that bypassed low oil switch on a Honda he was soon sorry 😐
Picked up a little tractor off the side of the road I’ve been trouble shooting. The problem I’m having now is that when I engage the PTO lever the engine cuts off. I suspect the safety switch is the issue but not certain. I have the mower deck removed so there is no binding. When I hold the lever in the off position it will start but will kill the engine when it starts to move to the on position.
That sounds like a safety switch. The video below will show you a quick and easy way to troubleshoot the switches without knowing much about the electronics of the mower. 👇
th-cam.com/video/dTBJi2BOlVg/w-d-xo.html
Very nice tutorial!
Sir. Very precise indeed! Have you done this on a Snapper 2013 RER 210, as it's called, "Turtle"? I'm trying this same idea myself. I don't know if I've found all the safety swithes. Thank you.
This should work on any mower. They all use a pretty similar safety switch system.
@@baldeagle242Thank you very much. I will thoroughly be using this as a guide.
good video,i learnt alot about the switches and where they were
+Shelley Hannah Thank you so much for taking the time to share your comment! Your feedback is greatly appreciated. 😊👍
Excellent and out of the box thinking. I have a Cub cadet where when you turn the switch to start it, the starter gear rises up but it doesn't turn the flywheel it just seems to run out of momentum. Will any of those switches affect that?
None of the safety switches will have an effect on the starter gear. I would however double check to make sure the positive and negative cables are not reversed on your battery.
@@baldeagle242 will do today and also the fuses.
@@baldeagle242 it's a brand new starter
Great videos. If the engine turns over when key is turned, does that mean all 3 safety switchs are operating properly. Hence, I can eliminate safety switches as reason mower won't start. In other words, does a bad switch always present itself as a disconnected battery.
On most AYP and MTD mowers this is true. When you get into some of the higher end John Deere or commercial fuel injected models you will still be able to crank them with safety issues but no fire.
On must residential mowers if it cranks the safety switches are normally good. Most common issue with a crack and no fire is the carb solenoid followed by a shorted wire (mouse?)
@@baldeagle242 Thanks. I've replaced the carb, plug, coil, and gas and cleaned all the dirt from safety switches and can only manage a short, halfway start when gumout is sprayed in the carb, then it quickly dies. Don't know what to do next. Murray 425000 with B&S motor.
@MrLMJohnson If it’s firing with gum out sprayed directly into the carb I’d suspect the solenoid on the bottom of your carburetor is stuck shut. First check to see if it possibly came unplugged. It requires power to open the solenoid to allow fuel into the main jet of the carburetor.
I don’t recommend disabling it but there are plenty of videos on TH-cam showing you how to cut the stopper off. If you choose to do this I would suggest replacing it after you confirm it’s bad.
The solenoid on the old and new carbs are engaging. The old one was slow at first, but not the new carb. I found a bent push rod on the exhaust side. Aluminum. Just received the replacement today and will install tomorrow.@@baldeagle242
my J Deere has lasted so long that all my wires have gone bad. and each one failed halfway thru mowing. to the point the only thing worth saving is the engine. but not before i wasted my time re wiring everything. tranny was final straw. thanks for the tips , i have started same scenario with another mower so....
I've had a few like that myself over the years. Unfurtenetly all good things must end at some point. Good luck with the other mower. Hopefully nothing too serious. Thanks for watching.
i have 21 yr old mower its not a john deere but thats no problem i use it weekly during summer no problem i can not fix bought it new
I just by pass all safety and full send YOLO
🤦🏻
My father has an old Craftsman 917.271060 that I'm trying to fix-up for him. Already replaced mower deck components, but noticed while testing that the parking brake won't engage. I looked under the hood and can see it's just a half-inch shy of where I believe the lever would be able to engage it. I was going to order a new rod brake hydro (part #169498) because I thought it must be damaged (one of the old spindles was bent, along with a really bent blade, so I know he hit something HARD). I'm wondering now if maybe the nuts near the brakes just need to be adjusted one way or the other (?) Thanks if you have any suggestions. I will continue to browse your vids but coming up with nothing on finding any 'parking brake adjustment' or 'rod brake hydro' help. Thank you!
Without seeing it myself it’s difficult to say exactly. There’s not much to it. If you look underneath as you (or a helper) try to engage it, that may give you a better understanding of what’s going on under there. It’s definitely possible that something is broken off or bent to where it doesn’t catch.
Thank you for the reply. Very kind of you. Yeah, I'm trying to wrap my head around it. With the brake pedal fully engaged, the lever is just barely shy of being able to lock it in, so my initial thoughts were that the brake rod must've got bent by the deck during a collision with a tree root or whatever. I hoped maybe it was something you had seen a time or two. Thanks again. I like the way you present your vids! Best wishes- @@baldeagle242
@@thomasperry313 thank you.
Good stuff, good to know. Thanks for sharing.
+larry kent Thank you so much for taking the time to share your comment! I hope to see you around on future videos. 😊👍
Thank you. I do have a question, though. I have no power to the key switch to activate the start solenoid to the starter. But if I turn the key to the run position, I can cross the battery poles, and it will activate the start solenoid, and it will run. Is this a safty switch issue or a key switch issue? How do you determine that? Thank you in advance for any help. Sorry, info craftsman 15.5 hp 42 inch deck
See if you’re getting power to the primary side of the solenoid when you turn the key to start. If you are the problem is most likely your solenoid. If not it’s most likely your key switch.
Did all your test and seem good. Not getting any voltage on the white wire on the sol. Jumping with a screw driver with kill wire off it stars right up. Any ideas? Sol is good and test of brake and seat switch seem good.
We will need to check a few more things before I can answer that. Are you getting 12 volts on the solenoid engagement wire when you turn the key? If not you possibly have a loose wire on the key switch or a bad switch. If you are it’s probably a bad connection at the solenoid or a bad solenoid itself.
@@baldeagle242 Got it running and noticed sparks down by the shield. It was the + wire going to the carb sol. Think that was why I keep blowing fuses.
thanks for responding!
@@55chevytruck Yes, that will do it. Should be 12 volts on that wire when running to engage the solenoid. I’m glad you were able to figure it out. 😁👍
great instructional video
You’re very welcome. I’m glad it helped. Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment. 😁👍
Hey I’m having problems with my cub cadet I put a brand new wireing harness and key switch and got the brake sensor tested and the pto switch tested there good but it still don’t have power to the key switch and the battery is off
@@dakotarollins3899 What happens if the battery is connected?
I have a 2003 craftsmans LT 2000 lawn tractor with a 17 horse Kohler engine. The lawn tractor runs; however, after warming up the engine just cuts off as if I had turned the key to the off position. There's no coughing or sputtering noise as if engine wasn't receiving enough gas or air. The carberator was replaced in 2022. Ihave replaced the fuel filter, fuel line, oil filter, and changed the oil. Any thoughts as to next steps?
Reply
Fabulous job man helps me alot
@Kenneth Flowers Thank you for sharing your comment! Your feedback means the world to us. It's incredibly uplifting to hear from viewers who have discovered solutions through our videos and share their own experiences. We genuinely hope to see you around in the future as well. youtube.com/@baldeagle242
Wishing you all the best! 😊👍
Very informative.Thank you bald eagle just what I wanted to know
And you know your stuff... don't have to read a script!😊
My LT1000 has new-working battery, new solenoid, new starter, good battery ground, turn key and cranks to compression point and stops. battery meter shows battery at 12 volts but drops under load to 8 or so. Any guesses as to my problem/fix?
It sounds like the compression release has broken on your camshaft. I mentioned it around the 1 minute and 15 second mark in this video and show you what it looks like. th-cam.com/video/8VxTRqJZi0Q/w-d-xo.html
Also, pull the spark plug and turn the engine over by hand to make sure it’s not hydrolocked
great video brother steve!
Thank you Tom. Hopefully it will help a few people who don’t understand how they work. 😁👍
Nice video! 😄
+@RealToolReviews Thank you! Here’s a link to other videos I’ve posted that you may find useful. th-cam.com/play/PL5_ZXmQpcjpac4UV8OW8g-IWVCR8tqy79.html&si=RKfnQL-PAcZFy67a
Bald eagle, do you give advice on specific pieces of equipment. I have a Husqvarna rider 155, 2003 version residential zero turn unit. I got it running for the season ran for five minutes while I was getting ready to cut and it all of a sudden died out. I put my tools away sit on it and I have no click I’ve replaced the solenoid tested all the kill switches and I still have no click. I just saw this video of yours but I don’t know where that black wire for the coil is and it also distinctly says don’t cut this and try to run your unit so that’s a little confusing help the grass is getting long. Ron
You don’t want to cut that wire and try to use your machine. Cutting it is for testing components only.
If it died and won’t click that could be a few things. Are you sure the battery is still good?
I am sure battery is good, 1) it started with the battery first thing this season 2) I can jump the solenoid terminals and it turns over
I just bought a short-test light but am unsure what do with it. At this point I’m thinking it’s a short.
I have a mult- meter too
Id first clip your test light onto a good ground point and then test the starter solenoid for power on the small solenoid wire(not the battery wire)
It should have power when you hold the key in the start position.
I have an 2007 John Deere X300. When I drew up the. Wiring diagram for the starter relay I left something out can you help me find the right schematic. Every one I find is for a different model.
If you have a local dealer they will usually help you with what you need and can print a diagram for you.
is the plug that goes into the interlock switch mower dependent? On my ztr the switch on the handle has a broken wire at the connector. It's a 2 wire connector.
@@virgilsmith5792
This is a common issue in some mowers, and the plug can be specific to the brand or model, but many interlock switches and connectors follow standard designs across various manufacturers. However, it’s essential to check the mower’s manual or part number to ensure compatibility when replacing or repairing the connector. If the connector isn’t specific to the mower, generic replacements could work, but it’s best to confirm wiring diagrams to be certain.
Good information...thanks
Question, so if one of the safety switches is bad will it stop the spark plug from firing?
@@danrt52 Yes, if they fail that’s exactly what they do.
@@baldeagle242 Thanks for the quick response, and the info.
Thanks and God bless.
Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment. 😁👍
Great video, thanks!
So the black sire going to the starter from the key switch is a "kill wire" and if it has a connection than it is killing the starter.
The black wire goes to the coil. If it has a connection to ground it will kill the spark.
I'm having trouble with the solenoid at the carb. It only clicks once. Could that affect my other three switches?
The solenoid on the carb will have no effect on the other switches. It is supplied with 12 volts DC when the key is on. All other safety switches work strictly with continuity to ground out the ignition coil and prevent it from creating spark.
Here is another video I posted earlier this year that may help to troubleshoot your problem.
th-cam.com/video/dTBJi2BOlVg/w-d-xo.html
@@baldeagle242 the link is to this video
Good info- thanks
Our problem is the lawn mower shuts off when the brake pedal is RELEASED. It has new ignition switch, new brake switch, new solenoid, good ground, 12 v at battery. Would a bad seat switch cause this to happen?? We have power to seat safety switch, if we get off seat it still runs.
There should be continuity at the seat switch but there should never be any power or voltage. Assuming for now you’re talking about continuity and not power… Yes, it sounds like your seat safety switch is not working. When you depress the brake switch it effectively bypasses the seat safety switch. When you engage the blades this re-enables the seat safety switch even if the brake pedal is pressed. Some of the safety switches have two circuits (4 connection points) this allowed the switches to work similarly to how a two way light switch works in your house. If either switch is turned on or off it will complete or break the circuit. It’s slightly different on your mower but it’s something that tends to make sense to most people when I explain it that way.
From what your saying I have to assume you have a seat safety switch with 4 connection points. If that’s true you either have a bad switch, a bad connection or a broken or damaged wire.
@Baldeagle242 thank you so much for responding. The way you explained it, helped us so much. We have a new seat safety switch on the way.
Let me know how it works out. 😁👍
@@baldeagle242 Hello again, we replaced the seat switch and tested the seat harness both are good. The mower starts but continues to shut off when the brake pedal is released. (Once again, new ignition switch, new blade switch, new brake switch, new seat switch, new solenoid, good battery.) The only thing left is a new wiring harness...which they are out of stock everywhere. Frustrated and feel like a dummy. It must be a simple thing, because it starts and runs good but I can't find the problem.
Without tracing the wires down I hate to just start replacing wires.
IMy son has a Troy Bilt TB30R (the small rear engine mower). There is one connector that is in the vicinity of the battery and starter, that is not connected. It is just a 2 wire connector, red and green. I assume green is ground and red is power, and the wires are part of a large wire bundle. The leads on the connecter are fairly short, so it could not go very far. Any ideas what might be going on? Obviously, we do not see any corresponding connectors that are not engaged. The mower will not start, much like if a safety switch is not working. Any help appreciated
I don’t recall the colors for the wire connections but generally the safety circuits are black wires. It’s possible the connection your talking about would be for the charging system. Without tracing the wires down it would be difficult for me to be certain what that plug is for.
I would start by checking to see if either wire connects to ground or power before trying to connect it to anything. Hooking it up someplace it shouldn’t be could cause damage somewhere else.
Great video
Thank you, Rick. 😁👍
Which safety switch is bad if the riding mower engine dies when put into gear?
Without checking them it’s difficult to say. It’s best to test them before you start blindly replacing them.
Newbie here. I wanted to know would this process work on a zero turn?
Yes, it will work the same way. You will have extra switches on the control arms but you can test exactly the same way.
@@baldeagle242 thanks. Hope to learn more from your videos.
I am having issues with my craftsman riding mower. I have done everything I can think of. Engine start right up every time,new pto switch, good fuse, no brake switch found, runs but when brake is released engine dies. I have checked seat and works fine also belt are in good condition. Can you contact me. I need help please??
Is there any chance the reverse safety switch is engaged?
I found the black wire traced it back to the engine block attached with a bolt. Would that be the same wire?
No, that would probably be the larger negative ground wire for the battery or starter solenoid. The black wire your looking for will trace back under the shroud cover on the top of the engine and attach to the coil(s) with a quick connection.
@@baldeagle242 I found a white wire coming from the connector that has a larger barrel connector with heat shrink wrap that connects to a black wire that runs under the plastic. Looks like the manufacturer wire (scag )that connects to Kawasaki engines wiring
My lt1000 transmission can not be shifted if the engine is running. What could have caused it. How do I fix this problem. Thank you.
Difficulty shifting a riding mower while the engine is running could be due to issues with the clutch, transmission, or the belt tension. Ensure the clutch is fully disengaged, and check for any debris or damage around the shifting mechanism.
Thanks main!
You’re welcome. Thanks for watching. 😁👍
Thx very informative.
+@BillVacca Thanks for watching! Here’s a link to other videos I’ve posted that you may find useful. th-cam.com/play/PL5_ZXmQpcjpac4UV8OW8g-IWVCR8tqy79.html&si=RKfnQL-PAcZFy67a
Great tips 👍
Thanks Dave. 😁👍
Perfect
Stay safe with Ian
Thank you Sir.
+Jerry Barker You’re welcome. Thank you! I hope to see you around on future videos. 😁👍
Good test,now do you have diagram or pic for putting pump belt back on EXMARK ZERO TURN Mod# QTE651KA421?,Thanks
I’m sorry I do not.
Ok thanks!
No problem. I wish I could help.
excellent!!
Thank you. 😁👍