Hi guys, I've been running a lot of tests to troubleshoot the Artillery SidewinderX1 uneven layer issue. So far I've done the following: - Installed TMC2100 drivers - Replaced the stock nozzle with a Trianglelab nozzle - Printed without the filament sensor - Printed with the spool on a different spool holder (Out from the printer) - Replaced the extruder feeding gear with a titan feeding gear This issue is most likely to be related to feeding problems and not Z wobble. However, I ran a few tests to confirm such as: - Replaced the spring couplings with rigid couplings - Printed without the top leadscrew bearings The results are still showing the uneven layers but I noticed a small improvement after replacing the nozzle. All the tests were performed by printing with the gcode cube provided by the manufacturer. Now I will print with my own profiles/models and check if there are any differences.
Thanks for the thorough review!. From my experience with the same issue on other printers, it seems like it might result from: 1- Excessive and uneven pull/push on the filament that could be due to: friction on the filament inside the small Teflon tube in the extruder or just wobbly extrusion gears. 2- Bed bowing up and down in tiny increments during On/Off thermostat heat cycles, this could be mitigated (or reduced) by activating PID option for bed in the firmware.
Wow that's what i would have tried, could the z-rods themselves have inconsistent threads? or maybe the thread pitch has a magic number layer height that is unusual?
@@tareql1906 , Thanks for the inputs. We already did a few of those things like replacing the extruder gear, completely disassembled the extruder and hotend and inspected everything, checked bed temperature variation, etc. One thing I noticed with the bed is that the silicone heat element is coming off from the bed. They probably did not use the correct glue for this temperature demanding application. We eventually stopped the troubleshooting because we have many other projects at the moment and not too much time to do them all :)
@@moltech Olá Marcelo, nós já fizemos imensos testes e o problema está praticamente na mesma. Neste momento esta impressora encontra-se em standby porque temos imensos projectos em mãos e muito pouco tempo disponível para os desenvolver. Logo que possível voltaremos a estudar este caso. Qualquer novidade postaremos aqui e/ou no facebook :)
Hei guys, Alex here. Unfortunatelly i still don't have my youtube channel, but still I want to share my experience of this printer as a comment to the most helpfull video i watched trying to eliminate the problems of Sidewinder. So on I read all the comments here, did everything people said, but it was no help eliminating this so called @z-axis wobble. Then i tried the spiralize setting of Cura sliser for the vase. A little bit of shaman dance and wuoala - the print looked fine on all heights. Spiralize gradually changes z-axis coordinate during print in "vase" mode. Then i looked to the original config file of artillery sidewinder firmware and discovered that steps/mm on z axis was 399.778 (also for x and y axis it was 80.121), and the G-code was just saying the printer to move z axis to coordinate corresponding layer with two signs over coma. So the mistake has a cumulative character and after a sertain ammount of layers it just skipped a layer, then making the other one thinner resulting in "random" layer height over layer 63 (0.2mm layers). The solution: Add the following lines to your G-code preambula under @Cura->printers->artillery->machine settings M92 X80 Y80 Z400 Enjoy your clean layers )
@@jimscobie6646 how's your experience with your sidewinder? I'm on the fence about getting one. What site would you recommend me buying it from. Thanks in advance
Nice to hear Sandra her voice too. Further, what to say. The standard for reviews once again brought to a higher level. Keep up the good work for the 3D printer world. I hope the company takes your remarks into consideration to improve the product.
Hi, It depends on where you buy. If you buy from the official artillery store, you can send them a message directly and ask that. In other stores like gearbest or banggood, there is no way to know for sure which version they have in stock.
flat cables maybe not designed for hotend as you said, but do you check how many cables are used only for the heater ? i'm sure they multiplied cables to avoid overteating But for sure I will buy 5 of this printers for my next batch printers for my printing compagny
Hi, yes, they have used more than one wire to divide the current between them. I also mentioned in the video that there are no signs of abnormal temperature on those flat cables which means that together they can handle the current.
@@ruiraptor on electricity, have 5000 little same cables or one big change nothing. The important is the total section of the total cable. But I will certainly buy this cool printer. The only thing I hate in the design.... Is the glass build plate, I really prefer magnetic flexible coating
@@isaacdahab9509 hi They work perfectly,I love them, just power on, launch prints. No problems at all, just change sometimes the nozzle ( like on any other printers. I also selled other old printer's to buy also 2 Elf corexy. I love them too and work perfectly with my Mosaic Palette 2s pro
I just received my X1, and I noticed the WiFi button but can't find any documentation on it. How do you use this? Does this printer have WiFi built in?
Nice video guys, printer looks very clean with a couple of minor issues. Would like to see if you and Nerys solve the uneven layer issue, be interesting to see if its a current to the stepper motor or the plastic cogs having some play in them when they turn causing pauses in extrusion.
Hi, I ran a few more tests and I can confirm what I've said at the beginning which is not related to the z wobble. I replaced the nozzle with a trianglelab one and the print quality increased a bit but the uneven layers are still there. My main suspicion is still the extruder and I'm focused on that right now. Will feedback when I have more information.
the uneven layering is caused by the titan replica design - the pressure on the filament is uneven due to the eccentricity of the feeder wheel in the big gear. Same issue on the newer versions of tevo flash.
Hi Tedy, That could be a reason and i will explore that. However i must say that i have 2 tevo flash printers and i don't have any issue with the extruders and they print perfectly.
@@ruiraptor he said newer version so I wonder if you and I got the original versions because my two TiVo flash printers also print perfectly quality control? Batch issue?
That is a possibility. Tevo has the titan extruder (with tevo logo on the case) for a long time since the tornado and michelangelo. For a long time they include the titan with the stock extruder with all the tevo tarantulas. If it's related to the extruder I might suspect of a bad batch. Unfortunately, I don't have one of those new versions to make a few tests :( I have a list of tests I need to run first but will disassemble the extruder of the sidewinder next and check that in detail.
Hi, Our printer is the first version and it is known to have the layer issue. The newest versions seem not to have the layer issues. Structure-wise, the artillery is very good but the tornado is easier to mod.
Hey Rui. I have the exact problem with my tevo tarantula. The layers look absolutely perfect when viewed in a certain way, but once you look at them from an upwards angle you can see uneven layers. Im running the stock hotend and stock extruder and did not get this problem in the past. What do you think is causing it on both printers? Could it be the steps per mm on the motors? My best guess is Z backlash.
Hi, I don't think it's caused by the steps per mm. Even if your steps per mm are wrong, they are constant. I'm currently working on this issue with this printer and will feedback on my facebook page when I find a solid solution.
There are a lot of things to like about this printer, but inconsistent extrusion seems a pretty big deal. Will you think about doing a "how to" tweak video soon on what needs to be done to get it tuned to its highest potential? That would really help me decide if I want to get one, or to go for some other "I3" type printer for my second one. Job well done on your videos, by the way. Informative and to the point. You are one of my four or five "go to" sources right now.
Hi Val, Our printer is the first version and it seems that the first version was the most affected one by the inconsistent extrusion. From what i read from other users, the newer version does not have that issue since the manufacturer modified a few things.
@@ruiraptor You should add that information to this video you do a disservice to you followers or make a second video explaining that information, I might be done with this channel!!~!
Hi! Looks like some better Flash/Ender-3 with a bigger printing area. Not sure if load/unload for this direct extruder is better than manual procedure in cases of some bowden extruders if there will be a need to change a spool in one print. Print bed seems to be great if they will be maintaining the same quality further. I would buy this if didn't have Flash :) I guess that Sidewinder's firmware can be changed by users.
My printer exhibit the same uneven layer extrusion issue and I replace my nozzle with stainless steel one and it works like a charm but the stringing is hell.
No ABL? The filament sensor is a good addition but no ABL makes no sense. It seems FDM printer design has plateaued with just more of the same with manufacturers just ripping each other off. Also, I could not find a source for a copy of the software to be able to modify or tune it.
Hi, when you say software, you mean firmware? If you mean firmware, the sidewinder uses marlin firmware (which is open source). You can contact the manufacturer for the firmware.
"We tested the print-resume feature, *but, unfortunately, it didn't work* ." "In the menus, we can find the resume button. From there... *WORKS PERFECTLY* ." You might consider re-wording a few of those sentences. Despite the happy ending, it does SOUND like bad news, a little misleading for anyone NOT paying attention, or prematurely hitting the stop button on the video. But, as usual... another great video.
You should watch the review(same printer) by that yoyo dude with the funny hair, I forget his name I think it is Brad he had uneven layers and then adjusted I think the z steppermotor where it connects to the ball screw and it went away!!!.........Thanks for sharing!!!
I do not like the restrained and interlinked z-axis I would prefer if they would get rid of the belt and the bearings at the top and it's dead at a second and stop for the second Z Motor that would take care of the uneven z-access draft every time that printer is homed Otherwise however the printer looks extremely nice and I look forward to digging into it tomorrow
Hi Nerys, thank you for your comment. The dual Z with belt on top is not new. The tevo flash also has that system. A dual endstop for dual z motor implies that you edit the firmware so that it would know that each Z motor/axis has an individual z sensor and with that, each z axis will continue turning until the correspondent endstop is triggered.
I know. I removed it from mine. z wobble in my prints went away after that :-) such a system requires machining level precision in QC and assembly to not get z wobble. I VERY much suspect your oddities might be related to it. by linking the system like that you are turning a motive system into a guidance system. this bad since you already have a guidance system (the rails and wheels) this means if the two are not PRECISELY aligned and I do mean precisely they will "fight" each other. they will push and pull on each other resulting in distortion of the kinematics. this will result in noise. when I assemble mine tomorrow I will leave it stock to see how it goes but if it goes like the flash I will remove it and the bearings so the tops of the z rods are unrestrained. this will remove any wobble from those rods being translated into the guidance system and therefore into the print. I could be wrong. maybe they did it to enough precision to avoid that but I see no benefit to it. @@ruiraptor
Hi Nerys, That was one of my initial suspicions and I did remove the top bearings and belt and ran a print without them (before publishing the video) but the result was the same. I also tested rigid couplings too. Because of these initial tests and results, I mentioned in the video that was probably not related with Z-wooble.
intriguing. I am glad you had done that already. have you tested what others have mentioned regarding eccentric gear in the feeder assembly? IE QC issue. ? the one thing that led to it not being z wobble was that it was not consistent on Z. feeder issue makes a little more sense but I lack experience with that to say for sure either way. @@ruiraptor
What I'd like to know is... how the hell does anything stay stuck to the bed after the first print? I printed the cube. Came out perfectly. But I had to beat it off the bed, that it was stuck so hard. But after that, I couldn't get anything to stick to it. I cleaned it with isopropyl alcohol. Took a yellowish film off the bed. Tried to print another filament spool holder. And nothing would stick. I wasted so much material (As everyone knows... a watched pot never boils.) because I would walk away, and THEN it would come loose, and fall off the bed. I had the bed preheated to 60, and the extruder to 200. From watching other videos, I accepted these settings to be the norm. Of course, I would level the bed just prior to the print. That's a project, all by itself. None the less... it got done. And every single time, it would get through 25%-50% of the project, and it would come loose. I've tried messing with the bed temp... 50, then 70, then 55, then 65. I'd walk away from it for a few minutes... and come back to a hay stack. I've even tried a glue stick, even thinning out the glue with an alcohol smear. For the love of God... WHAT THE HELL AM I DOING WRONG?!!! Do I invest in glass? Or cover the bed with pre-mask tape, buy a gallon of tar, maybe a case of fly strips, or crack a beer & be thankful that I don't live under a bridge? There has to be an answer. Too many people are printing nice, BIG things, while I struggle to print a subway token. Really gettin sick of starting over, half way through a 6-hour print.
@@christerwestlund4015 I forgot I posted this. But I remember the moment. Come to find out that, I wasn't having adhesion problems. I was having "the nozzle is too damn far from the bed" problems. This printer has a 5-point leveling system, which I completely overlooked. The most basic of things NOT to do, and I didn't do it. I forgot to level the damn thing. So... now I'm back to needing a hammer to get my prints off. Thanks for chiming in, Christer. Appreciate it.
Na just polarization in Fanboys on the internet it happens it's no big deal shills don't last long in this industry so that takes care of itself in time :-) I look forward to seeing what modifications he comes up with! This picture looks promising time will tell :-)
I have both the Sidewinder and the Genius and they have spent more time broken down than they have printing. The heat beds, ribbon cables etc they are cheap as he'll parts right through. There's a reason they are so cheap.
Artillery warmly welcome more and more you to be our good partners. We warmly welcome you to be our distributors and have a good cooperations. best wishes.
Hi guys,
I've been running a lot of tests to troubleshoot the Artillery SidewinderX1 uneven layer issue.
So far I've done the following:
- Installed TMC2100 drivers
- Replaced the stock nozzle with a Trianglelab nozzle
- Printed without the filament sensor
- Printed with the spool on a different spool holder (Out from the printer)
- Replaced the extruder feeding gear with a titan feeding gear
This issue is most likely to be related to feeding problems and not Z wobble. However, I ran a few tests to confirm such as:
- Replaced the spring couplings with rigid couplings
- Printed without the top leadscrew bearings
The results are still showing the uneven layers but I noticed a small improvement after replacing the nozzle.
All the tests were performed by printing with the gcode cube provided by the manufacturer.
Now I will print with my own profiles/models and check if there are any differences.
Thanks for the thorough review!. From my experience with the same issue on other printers, it seems like it might result from: 1- Excessive and uneven pull/push on the filament that could be due to: friction on the filament inside the small Teflon tube in the extruder or just wobbly extrusion gears. 2- Bed bowing up and down in tiny increments during On/Off thermostat heat cycles, this could be mitigated (or reduced) by activating PID option for bed in the firmware.
Wow that's what i would have tried, could the z-rods themselves have inconsistent threads? or maybe the thread pitch has a magic number layer height that is unusual?
Hi Ruy! Did you solve the uneven layer problems already?
@@tareql1906 ,
Thanks for the inputs. We already did a few of those things like replacing the extruder gear, completely disassembled the extruder and hotend and inspected everything, checked bed temperature variation, etc. One thing I noticed with the bed is that the silicone heat element is coming off from the bed. They probably did not use the correct glue for this temperature demanding application. We eventually stopped the troubleshooting because we have many other projects at the moment and not too much time to do them all :)
@@moltech
Olá Marcelo, nós já fizemos imensos testes e o problema está praticamente na mesma. Neste momento esta impressora encontra-se em standby porque temos imensos projectos em mãos e muito pouco tempo disponível para os desenvolver. Logo que possível voltaremos a estudar este caso. Qualquer novidade postaremos aqui e/ou no facebook :)
Hei guys, Alex here. Unfortunatelly i still don't have my youtube channel, but still I want to share my experience of this printer as a comment to the most helpfull video i watched trying to eliminate the problems of Sidewinder. So on
I read all the comments here, did everything people said, but it was no help eliminating this so called @z-axis wobble.
Then i tried the spiralize setting of Cura sliser for the vase. A little bit of shaman dance and wuoala - the print looked fine on all heights. Spiralize gradually changes z-axis coordinate during print in "vase" mode.
Then i looked to the original config file of artillery sidewinder firmware and discovered that steps/mm on z axis was 399.778 (also for x and y axis it was 80.121), and the G-code was just saying the printer to move z axis to coordinate corresponding layer with two signs over coma. So the mistake has a cumulative character and after a sertain ammount of layers it just skipped a layer, then making the other one thinner resulting in "random" layer height over layer 63 (0.2mm layers).
The solution:
Add the following lines to your G-code preambula under @Cura->printers->artillery->machine settings
M92 X80 Y80 Z400
Enjoy your clean layers )
Is it in the start gcode? No replacement? Just add? Thx
Very helpful. I ordered one already. Should get it next week.
@@jimscobie6646 how's your experience with your sidewinder? I'm on the fence about getting one. What site would you recommend me buying it from. Thanks in advance
more video on this printer will be great
Not too bad printer.
I'm super excited to see the printer upgrade video :)
Thanks for sharing!
Looks like a nice start point to make a good printer.
Excuse me, but what secret about the Sidewinder X1 was revealed in this video?
We were the first youtube channel to launch a video about the Artillhery Sidewinder and we included all the details. That's why ;)
it's great review. thank you very much, dear ruiraptor.
After this review, I will be staying with my cr10s
It's just a clone of the cr-10s pro which is about as shitty of a printer as the CR-X it's based on. I'm sticking to my cr-10s for as long as I can.
Nice to hear Sandra her voice too. Further, what to say. The standard for reviews once again brought to a higher level. Keep up the good work for the 3D printer world. I hope the company takes your remarks into consideration to improve the product.
thank you very much for your treasure suggetions, dear friend. we'll improve and give our clients good things.
Hello one question.
Do you know how to choose the latest version of this printer or can I buy any?
Hi,
It depends on where you buy. If you buy from the official artillery store, you can send them a message directly and ask that. In other stores like gearbest or banggood, there is no way to know for sure which version they have in stock.
Artillery Siderwinder is cool and high-quality with special features
Hi Rui. My printer will be here next week. question; what is this PID calibration you mentioned at 13:30 regarding the temperature? thanks
Hi,
To make the PID calibration, you need to connect a PC to the board and run a few commands.
Check here all the details:
reprap.org/wiki/PID_Tuning
Hello,
What slicer has been used to print the rocket? What profile has been used to get that print quality? Thanks!
Hi, With that machine we used S3D and our own profile.
flat cables maybe not designed for hotend as you said, but do you check how many cables are used only for the heater ? i'm sure they multiplied cables to avoid overteating
But for sure I will buy 5 of this printers for my next batch printers for my printing compagny
Hi, yes, they have used more than one wire to divide the current between them. I also mentioned in the video that there are no signs of abnormal temperature on those flat cables which means that together they can handle the current.
@@ruiraptor on electricity, have 5000 little same cables or one big change nothing. The important is the total section of the total cable.
But I will certainly buy this cool printer.
The only thing I hate in the design.... Is the glass build plate, I really prefer magnetic flexible coating
@@xTreme.Power. a bit late but how did it go with those 5 printers? im thinking of getting one
@@isaacdahab9509 hi
They work perfectly,I love them, just power on, launch prints. No problems at all, just change sometimes the nozzle ( like on any other printers.
I also selled other old printer's to buy also 2 Elf corexy. I love them too and work perfectly with my Mosaic Palette 2s pro
I just received my X1, and I noticed the WiFi button but can't find any documentation on it. How do you use this? Does this printer have WiFi built in?
If your version is equipped with the same MKS GEN L board then no, it does not imclude the wifi module.
@@ruiraptor Doesn't it include the MKS TFT (touchscreen) that does have the wifi module?
Nice review, but not familiar with doing the IPD process ... what’s the best way to do that. Thanks.
Hi Robert, PID calibration is very important. You can check here all the details and the best way to do it.
reprap.org/wiki/PID_Tuning
Nice video guys, printer looks very clean with a couple of minor issues. Would like to see if you and Nerys solve the uneven layer issue, be interesting to see if its a current to the stepper motor or the plastic cogs having some play in them when they turn causing pauses in extrusion.
Hi,
I ran a few more tests and I can confirm what I've said at the beginning which is not related to the z wobble.
I replaced the nozzle with a trianglelab one and the print quality increased a bit but the uneven layers are still there.
My main suspicion is still the extruder and I'm focused on that right now.
Will feedback when I have more information.
Thank you very much,Rui.It is good review.
the uneven layering is caused by the titan replica design - the pressure on the filament is uneven due to the eccentricity of the feeder wheel in the big gear. Same issue on the newer versions of tevo flash.
Hi Tedy,
That could be a reason and i will explore that.
However i must say that i have 2 tevo flash printers and i don't have any issue with the extruders and they print perfectly.
@@ruiraptor he said newer version so I wonder if you and I got the original versions because my two TiVo flash printers also print perfectly quality control? Batch issue?
That is a possibility.
Tevo has the titan extruder (with tevo logo on the case) for a long time since the tornado and michelangelo. For a long time they include the titan with the stock extruder with all the tevo tarantulas. If it's related to the extruder I might suspect of a bad batch. Unfortunately, I don't have one of those new versions to make a few tests :(
I have a list of tests I need to run first but will disassemble the extruder of the sidewinder next and check that in detail.
Artillery SidewinderX1 is a best printer.
Hi Rui. How would you compare this printer to the Tornado. I see some features I like but you mentioned some problems.
Hi,
Our printer is the first version and it is known to have the layer issue. The newest versions seem not to have the layer issues.
Structure-wise, the artillery is very good but the tornado is easier to mod.
@@ruiraptor Okay thanks
Hi friend,
an excellent review, very detailed. Have you managed to solve the problem of layer shifting??? Thanks a los for your work.
Hi,
We have tried many things at that time but we didn't continue with the troubleshooting :(
Hey Rui. I have the exact problem with my tevo tarantula. The layers look absolutely perfect when viewed in a certain way, but once you look at them from an upwards angle you can see uneven layers. Im running the stock hotend and stock extruder and did not get this problem in the past. What do you think is causing it on both printers? Could it be the steps per mm on the motors? My best guess is Z backlash.
Hi,
I don't think it's caused by the steps per mm. Even if your steps per mm are wrong, they are constant.
I'm currently working on this issue with this printer and will feedback on my facebook page when I find a solid solution.
@@ruiraptor awesome. Im very curious as to what it is. I cant seem to get rid of it on my printer.
Where can I find that rocket file?
Can they just be replaced without making any changes in the firmware?
Please tell me, did you find the answer to this question?
Wow,cool. Great printer, love it
There are a lot of things to like about this printer, but inconsistent extrusion seems a pretty big deal. Will you think about doing a "how to" tweak video soon on what needs to be done to get it tuned to its highest potential? That would really help me decide if I want to get one, or to go for some other "I3" type printer for my second one.
Job well done on your videos, by the way. Informative and to the point. You are one of my four or five "go to" sources right now.
Hi Val,
Our printer is the first version and it seems that the first version was the most affected one by the inconsistent extrusion.
From what i read from other users, the newer version does not have that issue since the manufacturer modified a few things.
@@ruiraptor You should add that information to this video you do a disservice to you followers or make a second video explaining that information, I might be done with this channel!!~!
What causes the sidewinder to have a thermal failure shutdown?
What kind of thermal error are you getting?
Hi! Looks like some better Flash/Ender-3 with a bigger printing area. Not sure if load/unload for this direct extruder is better than manual procedure in cases of some bowden extruders if there will be a need to change a spool in one print.
Print bed seems to be great if they will be maintaining the same quality further. I would buy this if didn't have Flash :)
I guess that Sidewinder's firmware can be changed by users.
Hi,
you are correct. The firmware can be easily updated.
dear Rui, I would like to info you that we updated the instruction about limited switches, pls kindly check, thank you very much.
Nice job, and I learned how to print with 3D printer as I have the same model but still I didn't run it.
Nice review
Are the 3D printer companies starting to name their products like this too now? I thought it was supper silly with motherboards already.
My printer exhibit the same uneven layer extrusion issue and I replace my nozzle with stainless steel one and it works like a charm but the stringing is hell.
Hi Dennis,
I might try that. Thanks.
Will let you know how it worked ;)
Nice, thanks for sharing👍😀
a good review,a good printer
No ABL? The filament sensor is a good addition but no ABL makes no sense. It seems FDM printer design has plateaued with just more of the same with manufacturers just ripping each other off. Also, I could not find a source for a copy of the software to be able to modify or tune it.
Hi,
when you say software, you mean firmware?
If you mean firmware, the sidewinder uses marlin firmware (which is open source). You can contact the manufacturer for the firmware.
Cool! I want it.
"We tested the print-resume feature, *but, unfortunately, it didn't work* ."
"In the menus, we can find the resume button. From there... *WORKS PERFECTLY* ."
You might consider re-wording a few of those sentences. Despite the happy ending,
it does SOUND like bad news, a little misleading for anyone NOT paying attention, or prematurely
hitting the stop button on the video.
But, as usual... another great video.
You should watch the review(same printer) by that yoyo dude with the funny hair, I forget his name I think it is Brad he had uneven layers and then adjusted I think the z steppermotor where it connects to the ball screw and it went away!!!.........Thanks for sharing!!!
Thanks Eric, however, we did try that (together with a few other things) and didn't help either.
A clickbait'y title, nothing more than an unboxing and setup video.
I do not like the restrained and interlinked z-axis I would prefer if they would get rid of the belt and the bearings at the top and it's dead at a second and stop for the second Z Motor that would take care of the uneven z-access draft every time that printer is homed
Otherwise however the printer looks extremely nice and I look forward to digging into it tomorrow
Hi Nerys,
thank you for your comment. The dual Z with belt on top is not new. The tevo flash also has that system.
A dual endstop for dual z motor implies that you edit the firmware so that it would know that each Z motor/axis has an individual z sensor and with that, each z axis will continue turning until the correspondent endstop is triggered.
I know. I removed it from mine. z wobble in my prints went away after that :-)
such a system requires machining level precision in QC and assembly to not get z wobble. I VERY much suspect your oddities might be related to it.
by linking the system like that you are turning a motive system into a guidance system. this bad since you already have a guidance system (the rails and wheels) this means if the two are not PRECISELY aligned and I do mean precisely they will "fight" each other. they will push and pull on each other resulting in distortion of the kinematics. this will result in noise.
when I assemble mine tomorrow I will leave it stock to see how it goes but if it goes like the flash I will remove it and the bearings so the tops of the z rods are unrestrained. this will remove any wobble from those rods being translated into the guidance system and therefore into the print.
I could be wrong. maybe they did it to enough precision to avoid that but I see no benefit to it.
@@ruiraptor
Hi Nerys,
That was one of my initial suspicions and I did remove the top bearings and belt and ran a print without them (before publishing the video) but the result was the same. I also tested rigid couplings too. Because of these initial tests and results, I mentioned in the video that was probably not related with Z-wooble.
intriguing. I am glad you had done that already.
have you tested what others have mentioned regarding eccentric gear in the feeder assembly? IE QC issue. ?
the one thing that led to it not being z wobble was that it was not consistent on Z. feeder issue makes a little more sense but I lack experience with that to say for sure either way.
@@ruiraptor
Hi @Nerys,
The extruder and nozzle tests will be done next. I will feedback as soon as I have the results ;)
What I'd like to know is... how the hell does anything stay stuck to the bed after the first print?
I printed the cube. Came out perfectly. But I had to beat it off the bed, that it was stuck so hard.
But after that, I couldn't get anything to stick to it. I cleaned it with isopropyl alcohol. Took a
yellowish film off the bed. Tried to print another filament spool holder. And nothing would stick.
I wasted so much material (As everyone knows... a watched pot never boils.) because I would
walk away, and THEN it would come loose, and fall off the bed.
I had the bed preheated to 60, and the extruder to 200. From watching other videos, I accepted
these settings to be the norm. Of course, I would level the bed just prior to the print. That's a
project, all by itself. None the less... it got done. And every single time, it would get through
25%-50% of the project, and it would come loose.
I've tried messing with the bed temp... 50, then 70, then 55, then 65. I'd walk away from it for a
few minutes... and come back to a hay stack. I've even tried a glue stick, even thinning out the
glue with an alcohol smear.
For the love of God... WHAT THE HELL AM I DOING WRONG?!!!
Do I invest in glass? Or cover the bed with pre-mask tape, buy a gallon of tar, maybe a case of
fly strips, or crack a beer & be thankful that I don't live under a bridge? There has to be an answer.
Too many people are printing nice, BIG things, while I struggle to print a subway token. Really
gettin sick of starting over, half way through a 6-hour print.
use hairspray on the bed and it comes lose after it cool down
@@christerwestlund4015 I forgot I posted this. But I remember the moment.
Come to find out that, I wasn't having adhesion problems. I was having
"the nozzle is too damn far from the bed" problems.
This printer has a 5-point leveling system, which I completely overlooked.
The most basic of things NOT to do, and I didn't do it. I forgot to level the
damn thing. So... now I'm back to needing a hammer to get my prints off.
Thanks for chiming in, Christer. Appreciate it.
Ha looking at the comments you can tell the people who work for or been paid by the company to comment......that's not the way to do things
Na just polarization in Fanboys on the internet it happens it's no big deal shills don't last long in this industry so that takes care of itself in time :-) I look forward to seeing what modifications he comes up with! This picture looks promising time will tell :-)
retraction settings and/or bad extruders do dis.
I'll stick with my Tevo Tornado Thank you. ;-)
I have both the Sidewinder and the Genius and they have spent more time broken down than they have printing. The heat beds, ribbon cables etc they are cheap as he'll parts right through. There's a reason they are so cheap.
Artillery warmly welcome more and more you to be our good partners. We warmly welcome you to be our distributors and have a good cooperations. best wishes.
Sick man
i have opened a new facebook group
facebook.com/groups/2277023895866486/
Isn't there already a Sidewinder X1 Facebook Group? Why 2?