A riveting video would be great! I’ve just now assembled all the parts including an Evocatus barrel. However, the riveting and especially gas port drilling have a guy nervous about shmisting the bed.
That is exactly the way I headspaced my Galil and my Russian type 3!!! It’s a long tedious process, but in the end, it worked out perfectly!! I liked your use of the sharpie, the same thing I did, lol. Great job!!
It's my understanding the bolts are "Case Hardened". And the Hardness depth is shallow .004-.005. Now by your removal of material i.e. imparting wear. The surface (bolt) area which comes in contact with the receiver probably has substantially less hardness. My question is have you ever conducted a ROCKWELL HARDNESS TEST?? And if you haven't would you consider doing a test on your finished product??
Very good, in-depth video guys! It's always satisfying finding channels like yours that show the ins and outs of firearms as well as the procedures you use. I'm very interested in building a Galil myself and this series is a phenomenal reference. Keep up the great work!
Thank you. Every technique helps our community. On AKs, many "lap in" the last, to an 80% or more lug face engagement with non-embedding lapping compound. Then settling at a "two thumb" close from rear carrier pressure on a GO Gauge. Having a gas tube installed, or some other form of piston guide helps ensure parallel lug engagement during lapping.
@@evocatusstrategic You are welcome. Some of the best knowledge I have found comes from the translated DDR East German armorers manuals, a wealth to say the least, but nothing compares to expierence. God bless, Keep yer powder dry, and front sight well sooted.
I’ve done 4 Galil builds on TorTort receivers, using Troy Ess barrels. I haven’t found it necessary to do anything with the bolt. All the barrels, including a 16 inch unknown maker, have had too tight headspace, which is much better than being too loose. I’ve used shims from .004 to .009 with a 130 ft/lb torque that takes just a bit of pressure to close on a Go Gauge. I doubt long term use is going to change the headspace enough to matter.
Great video. Well explained and shown. Would love to see a tutorial on installing the bullet guide. That's the one step of the process that gives me pause.
Hello I got my bullet guide from hillbilly firearms. it doesn't fit quite right. its a tortort 80% . it's sits all the way down in the receiver but the guide ramp is below the rail in the receiver by probly 0.030 but I think if I shim it up to flush with the rail the bolt will jump on the guide any ideas what's going on . idk how to post pics or video in the comments . And another issue I'm having is the barrel threads to receiver seem crazy loose to me but I don't know how loose is to loose any help is much appreciated. Thanks in advance
Thank you for taking time to make these videos. I'm not a gun Smith but I've built a few aks and I'm currently building a sar kit on a Tortort 80% and my kit didn't come with a bullet guide. Would you happen to know where I could find one and witch one I need. I've heard there are guide issues with different receivers. Thank you for your service 🇺🇸 Any help is much appreciated
building on a threaded barrel and receiver that are not perfectly machined for each other can be tricky....but if your chamber is shallow, and you dont like the idea of filing away on the bolt or finish reaming the chamber, I would get it as close as possible with shims then lap for the perfect lug engagement. Just watching someone filing on the bolt makes me nervous....
I was slightly, taken off originally when I started this video of the head spacing process. thank you for confirming my thoughts on shims , when using new and old parts together . I have not started yet and I'm glade I have found this vid. on the processes. I've read on a well known web page on a head spacing process , that I wasn't seeing here. I see why , new parts is always different then used with new parts , (says me ). again, awesome video !!.
Yuuuup. Any gun headspaced like this is a hand grenade waiting to happen. The barrel is short chambered and needs cut deeper. The technique shown here is no different than century grinding the back of cetme bolts. Force matching is terrible. If the bolt closes on an empty chamber, it has plenty of lug space. If you add a go gauge and it doesn't close, the chamber needs cut deeper. DO NOT cut on lugs. This practice is dangerous and lazy.
@@mikecramer3258 Is it safe to set the barrel out with shims instead of reaming the chamber deeper? I thought the chamber depth was good to go from the barrel maker and you just need to get it positioned correctly relative to the receiver.
@@AlwaysBored123 Some barrels are short chambered, some are long chambered. Meaning you need to cut the chamber deeper or trim shoulders and face, respectively. Depends on the barrel, the maker, everything. I would not use shims unless barrel is chrome lined, in which case a chamber reamer would not work, unless maybe carbide.
@@mikecramer3258 Thanks for the info. I think I have a good idea of the process now. I wonder why no one seems to do press in barrels like this? I had never heard of reaming a chamber until I started digging into building a Galil. Never seen it mentioned as part of AK building.
@@AlwaysBored123 An AK barrel is more "standardized" as far as chamber depth cut, and setting it in and out by pressing it. One should still check with gauges, obviously! The Israelis opted for threaded barrels after capturing AKs during the six day war and liked how they didn't jam with sand as their FALs sometimes would. FAL barrels are threaded into a milled receiver, so they already had the tooling and knowledge on how to do it, so that was that. The Galil takes features from the AK, FAL, and AR15 and makes an amalgamation, best of the best, gun. In a time when optics were still very rare, the Galil had flip up tritium sights. Nothing else had that, especially standard on a service rifle; a very forward thinking design. There are a couple options for press-in barrels now. Iron Curtain Customs makes trunnion blocks, Childers makes the stamped receivers to take Galil parts. Standard AKM barrel, but is 7.62x39 instead of 5.56. Would obviously need a 7.62 bolt too.
Never ever hit a carrier with a hammer when checking headspace with a gauge in the chamber. Also you are compromising the bolt when removing that much material off the bolt lugs. Chamber needs to be deeper. This is backyard gunsmithing at best. Sorry man I’m just being honest
I would not advise it. You’d be torquing against the lock up of the lugs on the bolt and not the threads in the receiver. So, No. I recommend you check out episode one in this series that shows how to torque the barrel to spec.
A lot of work. Easier to make the shoulder of the barrel longer and then machine it down to fit the bolt without messing with a bolt that is responsible for high psi
What's the best way to get ahold of you guys to inquire about build services? I've got a Yugo M72B1 kit that needs some 6.5 Grendel in its life sometime in the future.
how do you reharden the surface after you headspace?
These bolts are through-hardened, not case hardened, so it’s all just as hard. There’s no thin candy shell.
Anyone telling you these are case hardened are trying to sell you a process.
A riveting video would be great! I’ve just now assembled all the parts including an Evocatus barrel. However, the riveting and especially gas port drilling have a guy nervous about shmisting the bed.
That is exactly the way I headspaced my Galil and my Russian type 3!!! It’s a long tedious process, but in the end, it worked out perfectly!! I liked your use of the sharpie, the same thing I did, lol.
Great job!!
Right on!
It's my understanding the bolts are "Case Hardened". And the Hardness depth is shallow .004-.005. Now by your removal of material i.e. imparting wear. The surface (bolt) area which comes in contact with the receiver probably has substantially less hardness. My question is have you ever conducted a ROCKWELL HARDNESS TEST??
And if you haven't would you consider doing a test on your finished product??
Kalashnikov and to extent Galil parts are through hardened. They are not case hardened
Very good, in-depth video guys! It's always satisfying finding channels like yours that show the ins and outs of firearms as well as the procedures you use. I'm very interested in building a Galil myself and this series is a phenomenal reference. Keep up the great work!
I have never done a Galil , so Thanks for doing great a video to help further educate new builders. And how to install your barrel .
Thanks! I love this info. Always wanted aks and galils. Finally got into them this year and I love it. Would love to see a riveting video.
Thank you. Every technique helps our community. On AKs, many "lap in" the last, to an 80% or more lug face engagement with non-embedding lapping compound. Then settling at a "two thumb" close from rear carrier pressure on a GO Gauge. Having a gas tube installed, or some other form of piston guide helps ensure parallel lug engagement during lapping.
Yeah, I should’ve covered lapping a little better here, but thank you for sharing it! All great knowledge.
@@evocatusstrategic You are welcome. Some of the best knowledge I have found comes from the translated DDR East German armorers manuals, a wealth to say the least, but nothing compares to expierence. God bless, Keep yer powder dry, and front sight well sooted.
Appreciate you sharing this knowledge. " I'm not used to working under lights. That's what she said." Holy smokes that had me cracking up 🤣🤣🤣
I’ve done 4 Galil builds on TorTort receivers, using Troy Ess barrels. I haven’t found it necessary to do anything with the bolt. All the barrels, including a 16 inch unknown maker, have had too tight headspace, which is much better than being too loose. I’ve used shims from .004 to .009 with a 130 ft/lb torque that takes just a bit of pressure to close on a Go Gauge. I doubt long term use is going to change the headspace enough to matter.
Our Galil build class for September is live on our website!
Golllyyyy, I feel like I went threw it with you there lol
Great video. Well explained and shown.
Would love to see a tutorial on installing the bullet guide. That's the one step of the process that gives me pause.
Hello I got my bullet guide from hillbilly firearms.
it doesn't fit quite right.
its a tortort 80% .
it's sits all the way down in the receiver but the guide ramp is below the rail in the receiver by probly 0.030 but I think if I shim it up to flush with the rail the bolt will jump on the guide any ideas what's going on .
idk how to post pics or video in the comments . And another issue I'm having is the barrel threads to receiver seem crazy loose to me but I don't know how loose is to loose any help is much appreciated. Thanks in advance
Thank you for taking time to make these videos. I'm not a gun Smith but I've built a few aks and I'm currently building a sar kit on a Tortort 80% and my kit didn't come with a bullet guide.
Would you happen to know where I could find one and witch one I need.
I've heard there are guide issues with different receivers.
Thank you for your service 🇺🇸
Any help is much appreciated
Hillbilly Firearms has those bullet guides. At least thats where I got mine a couple months ago.
@@seibertsmiths Hillbilly is the only one I've found that the the bullet guide and rivet. Mine just arrived in the mail today.
Excellent video.
building on a threaded barrel and receiver that are not perfectly machined for each other can be tricky....but if your chamber is shallow, and you dont like the idea of filing away on the bolt or finish reaming the chamber, I would get it as close as possible with shims then lap for the perfect lug engagement. Just watching someone filing on the bolt makes me nervous....
I was slightly, taken off originally when I started this video of the head spacing process. thank you for confirming my thoughts on shims , when using new and old parts together . I have not started yet and I'm glade I have found this vid. on the processes. I've read on a well known web page on a head spacing process , that I wasn't seeing here. I see why , new parts is always different then used with new parts , (says me ). again, awesome video !!.
“Don’t use lapping compound on your bolt!”
Proceeds to file the lugs on bolt to obtain headspace 😅
Forgive me if this is incorrect, but wouldn't filing these areas remove the surface hardness? Or are the bolts hardened through and through?
Yuuuup. Any gun headspaced like this is a hand grenade waiting to happen. The barrel is short chambered and needs cut deeper. The technique shown here is no different than century grinding the back of cetme bolts. Force matching is terrible.
If the bolt closes on an empty chamber, it has plenty of lug space. If you add a go gauge and it doesn't close, the chamber needs cut deeper. DO NOT cut on lugs. This practice is dangerous and lazy.
@@mikecramer3258 Is it safe to set the barrel out with shims instead of reaming the chamber deeper? I thought the chamber depth was good to go from the barrel maker and you just need to get it positioned correctly relative to the receiver.
@@AlwaysBored123 Some barrels are short chambered, some are long chambered. Meaning you need to cut the chamber deeper or trim shoulders and face, respectively. Depends on the barrel, the maker, everything. I would not use shims unless barrel is chrome lined, in which case a chamber reamer would not work, unless maybe carbide.
@@mikecramer3258 Thanks for the info. I think I have a good idea of the process now. I wonder why no one seems to do press in barrels like this? I had never heard of reaming a chamber until I started digging into building a Galil. Never seen it mentioned as part of AK building.
@@AlwaysBored123 An AK barrel is more "standardized" as far as chamber depth cut, and setting it in and out by pressing it. One should still check with gauges, obviously! The Israelis opted for threaded barrels after capturing AKs during the six day war and liked how they didn't jam with sand as their FALs sometimes would. FAL barrels are threaded into a milled receiver, so they already had the tooling and knowledge on how to do it, so that was that. The Galil takes features from the AK, FAL, and AR15 and makes an amalgamation, best of the best, gun. In a time when optics were still very rare, the Galil had flip up tritium sights. Nothing else had that, especially standard on a service rifle; a very forward thinking design.
There are a couple options for press-in barrels now. Iron Curtain Customs makes trunnion blocks, Childers makes the stamped receivers to take Galil parts. Standard AKM barrel, but is 7.62x39 instead of 5.56. Would obviously need a 7.62 bolt too.
Thank you, I’ve been looking for info to finish my parts kit. Galils are sparse on you tube as far as diy stuff.
Never ever hit a carrier with a hammer when checking headspace with a gauge in the chamber. Also you are compromising the bolt when removing that much material off the bolt lugs. Chamber needs to be deeper. This is backyard gunsmithing at best. Sorry man I’m just being honest
Awesome
Where do you discuss how to strip the bolt? I can't find it...
Ok . I’m Over thinking the processes . I’m spoiled with pressing in to adjust head spacing .
im looking at chopping my ace barrel down. do i have to re force match if its the same barrel and bolt?
you guys ever going to make some 308 bolts ? so I can build a 308 galil.
Could you install the bolt and carrier with the go gauge installed and then torque the barrel in?
I would not advise it. You’d be torquing against the lock up of the lugs on the bolt and not the threads in the receiver. So, No. I recommend you check out episode one in this series that shows how to torque the barrel to spec.
A lot of work. Easier to make the shoulder of the barrel longer and then machine it down to fit the bolt without messing with a bolt that is responsible for high psi
What's the best way to get ahold of you guys to inquire about build services? I've got a Yugo M72B1 kit that needs some 6.5 Grendel in its life sometime in the future.
What is your website?
Do you guys make the extractor cut on the barrel? Or is that optional?
If so how?
Only if the extractor protrudes past the bolt face
If your headspace it too large, then, of course, you have a problem that cannot be fixed with sharpies, needle files or emery paper.
Have to set the barrel back
Let's remove material from the interface surface that keeps your face from blowing up
So I was looking at mine and there's like over an ⅛" of material that needs to come off to even have a hope of camming. Am I missing something?