How to shoot and light a colored room
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ย. 2024
- Not all houses have white ceilings or walls to bounce from, leading to various challenges. Here I show simple techniques to overcome these problems using a recently difficult room to work with. See more techniques in my real estate photography series at amzn.to/3mFoznx
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Seems like all i get anymore are peach walls with peach ceilings and dark wood floors.... ugh. It's a nightmare.
Thank you so much for your channel! I'm just getting out of HDR, and your tutorials have really opened things up for me. Cheers!
Super helpful!!! Loved your comment about the nice sellers :)
Great tutorial. Thank u! Very much appreciated!
Thank you Nathan. Great advice, great tool, great tutorial!
Thanks for the great tutorials. I would be interested in a video on the gear you use.
Hi Nathan - great video again, nice job!
Question: Have you considered/tried to keep your light pointing straight up and position the larger white reflector a few feet directly above it (parallel with the ceiling - and close to it)? Wouldn't the resulting light be similar to one bounced off of a white ceiling?
That would direct the light down, not out, and I'd have to get on a ladder ;)
Some good solutions here. Had a very difficult house the other day with coloured ceilings. Forgot about trying to bounce off something white. Got useable product somehow with a lot of post work. Your books are excellent too
Good video, Nathan! Orange walls... mama mia!
Your ebooks are worth it!!!
Hey Nathan - another epic video, it's been a pleasure learning from these and your books! Being based in Norway many properties for REP and tourism are wooden cabin types - soft wood floors ceilings and walls - would the same tips apply from this video or do you have any specific thoughts when it comes to being surrounded by pine?? Thanks!
Hi Sam, I show how to light wooden rooms in my Lighting Guide, here's a link if you'd like to check that out: www.amazon.nl/dp/B089SB3RY3
awesome, very helpful!
Thanks for the nice video!
Great program, thank you!
Great info, Nathan. Made me decide to buy a gray card finally. You should have affiliate links for those & the flashes you use. Would love for you to get a cut.
Glad I watched this video the other day because the next day I had to shoot a house with all colored ceilings and it was difficult. I didn't have the bounce card in time, but it helped me think about what to do
Which strobe light are you using? Looking to buying one for myself for my properties and speed lights aren't removing some natural highlights so I'm window shopping strobe's at the moment.
XPLOR 600 or Rovelight, both available at Adorama, both 600WS, both great lights.
Hey Nathan - another great vid! Keep up the great work! Just out of curiosity....when you shoot with direct, harsh speed/strobe light (straight into the room), when it comes to the post production of that image (harsh light) and ambient, do you blend those layers in 'normal' mode? I've noticed that luminosity mode can be very tricky in those situations (when you have harsh shadows) and doesn't work out so well, so 'normal mode' is what I tend to lean towards in these type of conditions but wanted to get your take on it. Thanks for all the great advice!
Hi Zach, I never shoot flash directly into a room; instead, it's bounced. On the blending mode, I use luminosity, except for certain repairs which I talk about in other videos and in my advanced editing book. If you are using normal blending mode then you are defeating the purpose of using lights and it's a sign that you are probably doing something wrong. My most recent video talks about one particular, and I also discuss this in greater detail in my interiors e-book at www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0755KXSL4?ref_=dbs_mng_calw_0&storeType=ebooks
Thank you! I learned alot from you, i just have one question. I don't have a white reflector, but i do have a silver reflector. Do you think i can use that one instead?
That's odd...most reflectors come with removable covers so you can switch from silver to white. Check if your reflector has a zipper, which allows you to remove the reflector material, turn it inside out, thus showing white. If not, then I'd suggest spending a few dollars to buy one, since silver is far too specular for most interior work. I cover reflectors and such in my new lighting guide as well at www.amazon.com/dp/B07Z9KKGCS
Could you save a step by transferring your temp settings from the gray card shot to your ambient (since it's probably the next shot you'll take after the gray card shot) and then, with your lens correction/vertical etc. standard preset applied to your ambient plus the new temperature setting copy/paste to the other imports? I seem to recall that in one of your videos you mentioned to copy/paste everything BUT the white balance when you are applying to the other frames you are going to take into Photoshop. Perhaps I'm confused, although there are no hard and fast rules, by the order in which you take your shots and the fact that they differ from video to video. In your most recent video regarding the two-stop rule the workflow seems to be that you are taking the ambient first, followed by at least one flash shot with the exposure reduced via the shutter speed by around two stops or so. Here you mention you are taking the flash shot first. So, do you apply those color settings from the gray card shot to all shots (ambient/flash/pulls) or to just one of your choosing - say, only the shot that immediately follows the gray card shot? Sorry if I sound so obsessive compulsive on this one, but I'm really getting so much out of your videos and there's so much to take in (although the workflow is very streamlined once you get it!) Thanks
Basically, you only want to copy WB from a grey-card frame to your base flash layer. More on that in my ebook: www.amazon.com/dp/B0755KXSL4
@@NathanCoolPhoto would love to see another tutorial on the science behind that grey card trick and maybe doing different types of in-camera white balance as well as post white balance. - just a thought for a future vid.
What are your thoughts about using a normal dish reflector with one of those soft white covers over the bulb?
Since shots are diffused from bounces or STUs, the XPLOR600 diffuser's purpose is more for bulb protection than anything.
@@NathanCoolPhoto I see. Im actually using a ad200 with a white dome diffuser over the bulb. Would you suggest just take the white protector off and bounce directly off a white reflector or wall?
I love your videos and your book was excellent, I'm looking forward to the advanced book. Why not do a direct flash every time instead of a bounce since you need less power and the colors are truer? Since you're blending ambient you can get rid of any hard shadows?
It's because of the spread and fall-off, first thing discussed in the "Lighting" chapter: www.amazon.com/dp/B0755KXSL4
Thank you, I did read and then re-read that chapter and understand the softness of bounced light. However, if we're only using the flash for color and to get rid of artifacts, I don't understand why we'd introduce color casts from bouncing off a ceiling (reflecting the floor) that you wouldn't have in a direct flash. Your videos are great and so is the book. I recommend for all.
Direct flash introduces shadows and uneven lighting (and subsequent color). Bounced light with good fall-off avoids all of that. Take home point: you want good fall-off for REP.
I am very happy I discovered your channel, Nathan! I am starting out as an interior photographer and your tutorials are super helpful - thank you! :)