Thanks man, appreciate the video! Was literally struggling with a Focus RS (500+bhp) and seemed impossible to drive. Now I have seen my ballast positioning was wrong and the initial torque setting too. Top tips man, thank you!
Something that I think gets slept on as well, particularly with the focus, in increasing the rigidity. That combined with a good suspension set up will stop the lift off oversteer and tankslappers you get in that car.
Don’t discount suspension tuning default settings are completely Wrong. Buy the fully customisable suspension (coilovers) Then simply remember softer equals More - priority of Grip in weight Balance. You have anti-roll bars / dampers compression (bump) and expansion (rebound) / natural frequency (Springs rate) E.g. anti-roll bars F6 R3 Damping bump F35 R23 Damping rebound F45 R39 Spring stiffness F2.20 R1.70 Or to much understeer Anti roll bar F5 R3 And springs F2.25 R1.70 Those are example figures as a base setup to give you an idea, Rear wheel drive or AWD (in this game) cars may need a great difference, depending In mid-engined or rear engined cars then the spring rate equalling grip changes along with the weight balance of the car. Sometimes less of a difference F2.20 R2.00 sometimes equal, and sometimes opposite That should help Massively, Anyway “keep it simple stupid” haha
General rules with 4wd and prop -first. a car with a lot of hp is unstabble by nature. You can only make good setup if you are gentle with your power and brakes during the first part of your test. The hard part is not to confuse oversteer and a to heavy foot on throttle ans brakes. Look for the limit of the grip and try to analyse the behavior of your car on brakes, on power and during slow and fast corners. Avoid tcs. -Oversteer on power: lower the rear bump damping and lower the front rebound damping. It allows, on power, the front to go up and the rear to go down. More understeer on the front and more grip on the rear. The car will be more stable. If you suffer from understeer, just do the opposite. -Oversteer on brake. Stiffen the front bump damping, and stiffen the rear rebound damping. It allows to keep more grip on the rear. The front will be less reactiv. If you suffer from understeer, just do the opposite. -general oversteer, you want the front more stiff (natural frequency and antiroll bar) Set correctly your lsd If oversteer, Rear lsd Initial torque low, acceleration torque low, deceleration torque high
Just for comparison sake I think the TCS should be turn off for at least the initial comparison. I feel it's just TCS doing it's work rn. None the less good video!
mostly its the TC working here.. you can see how it is working from 3:39 for 4 soconds straight, trying to control the car... so yeah... kinda pointless, you should compare with tc off, but the rest is good. Also for everybody whos interested: with the Anti-Roll-Bar adjustment, you set if your car shall behave more oversteery or understeery. stiffer rear ARB + softer front ARB = makes your car more oversteery softer rear ARB + stiffer front ARB = makes your car more understeery
Your corner speed has 10+/- in variation between the runs, also TC will make the car “driveable” without playing much with settings. The 100kg Ballast to the front will comprise the corner entry speed and promote under steer.
Heads up for future videos, lowering some cars to the lowest setting can induce rubbing which has a really negative impacts on turn in for tight corners. Finding that sweet spot is key.
Agreed with everything you said - one more thing …add some more negative camber from minus 3 to minus 4 Cornering is much better when you go from -3 to -4 camber …this means the tyres will grip more. Given most circuits are cambered corners anyway. This will give you more traction and quicker speeds coming out of corners.
Thanks for the tips but i think it would be more interesting to see the effects first without TC and then show the TC. Like this you can really feel the changes and it gets overshadowed by TC.
Adding the ballast all the way to rear helped out better for me. The extra weight on the rear wheels helps the car stick better for FR, then tune the initial torque on the lsd to manage the oversteer out of turns.
This... Adding ballast to the front will only induce understeer during turn entry. It will do little to nothing for when powering out of a turn which is when it is needed in this high torque vehicle. Adding to the rear will help for powering out of turns but most of the improvement is made in the diff honestly.
Lowering your torque was all you had to do. Adding ballast, especially to the front is exactly why you slammed into the wall still at the end. Weight wins races...or rather the lack of it.
Ok appreciate the tips.. however placing the ballast to the front in FR car increases the oversteers as the traction in the front increases by teh additional weight. Ballast is pushed to the front in some MRs but especially RRs (Porsches) as the rear wheels have great traction (due to engine location) but the from is light and thus understeer then snap oversteer hence ballast is used to give stability/traction to the front... the Diff+TC1 should resolve the oversteer in this car and maybe will reduce Rear roll bar to 0
Very useful Kireth. I was struggling with the 911 GT3 and putting ballast of just 50kg, suspension tweaks, and TC1 really helped in the wet weather Porsche cup menu book. Car was balanced really nicely.
Dude, you are a life saver. I could race the Escudo at all at Willow Springs and this solved my problem. The stability increased and no more spin outs. I used the trial track to practice settings and then got 3rd in the race and 1st on the other track. Excellent work.
I found ride height as low as possible on most cars scrubs tyres & causes vehicle not to turn properly on sharp turns ie hairpin at Suzuka. I always leave at least 5mm off lowest & it helps lots.
That, and stiffen the front suspension compression, expansion and frequency to prevent the front from bottoming out under heavy load. Add more negative front camber as well to give you more clearance during a full turn. Be wary of the steering angle modification as well. It could give too much steering angle and make the wheel have contact with the inner fender. I started doing turning tests with my cars during tuning. Drive about 10mph and turn hard left and right, then do a replay and watch your clearance. Usually this gets away with it.
@@frantz4g63 cheers mate, I actually do stiffen suspension & add neg camber for same reason. I also add ballast to some cars & only use steering angle adaptor for drift cars. Thanks mate for welcome input always helps.
@@geoganicus7238 I spent enough time beating my head on a brick trying to figure it out 😅 it would be a shame not to share a solution since we both know tons of people are going to go through this since pretty much everyone loves slamming their cars to the ground. Glad you already had a solution for it man, because I wish I had the help when I was trying to figure it out. Didn't expect real world dimensional physics to take place in a game. Good thing me knowing a thing or two in the real world I was able to think logically 🤣
@@frantz4g63 spot on mate. Me too 🤣. I'm a motor mechanic by trade so that helps immensely. Feel a bit for those without mech knowledge trying to set up cars. Must be frustrating. It gets that way for me! Any help is always good. Cheers again.
@@geoganicus7238 ahh same here, mainly on rotary engines, but I do know my way around piston engines as well. Knowledge will get around since the game is new, then the early bloomers will catch on. Definitely will teach them a few aspects in the real world. Enjoy the game and stay informative my man 👍🏽
Nice vid mate, earned a sub. I see a lot of people talk about not using TC, like it's a badge of honour if you don't, which is nonsense. Most sports cars in reality have TC to some extent, so using no TC in GT7 would be "unrealistic". Maybe see you on the track. 🙏🏻
@@Kireth its not "elitism", most of us who know how to drive go TCS off in the real world as well because its intrusive and takes away from what the car can actually do. My S6, cousins ATS-V, buddies SC S197 Mustang, my old BMW M3 and so many more.... all hampered by factory TCS, and all shut off when going for a spirited drive or track day. My FD RX7 never had it, and it never should. I understand there are TCS nazis out there hell bent on shaming people, but there are also TCS brigaders that think TCS this holy savior, when its really just teaching you to not learn the car, or manage your inputs like you should. Driving with TCS is easy mode, TCS off is hard mode, real mode.... and its the only way to play.
I got the old Camaro car and have horse power of 600 plus then next thing you know my car was just spinning 🤣🤣🤣🤣 good thing i found this video to help me out. Thank you sir.
You can even increase the lsd brake sensitivity 😉 example of lsd values for very oversteering cars: 5/5/60. If the car is too slow, you can try to increase the fist two and decrease the third gradually
TC is viable, but practicing without TC eventually improves throttle control. I understand if you're top split, there is likely not much more to improve, which i understand. This isn't any sort of thing you have to do, as you probably should be racing with TC on, but it does slightly help.
Are people who consider themselves somewhat high level in GT driving with TC on? I played through the Cafe with TC1 because I couldn't get used to the oversteer, but once I was at Gr.4 and had driven a few tracks, I realized that TC was basically bottlenecking my turn radius. I just couldn't do hairpins for example at the same speed using the same like as the AI. And you're absolutely right, that forcing yourself to turn off traction control teaches you better throttle control. After about a week with TC off, I'll be driving a Gr.3 car and sometimes I have to double check that the assists didn't get turned back on because I'm just getting better at being careful and precise. I play on a controller and I honestly feel that granularity of brakes and throttle is a bigger disadvantage versus a wheel than steering.
@@Kireth Maybe I'll give it a shot again. I definitely lose corner exit speed versus with TC on because I'm babying the throttle whenever I'm not perfectly straight. Do you just blanket use TC1 on everything, or vary per car? I feel like I don't need it with Gr.4 much, but Gr.3 and certain street cars, or events restricted to comfort tires I do much more.
thanks for the video. The ZL1 gave me some trouble, even though i put racing hard on it. I dealt with it with Traction control 3, and pressing half R2 whenever i accelerate from near zero. your video is very helpful, even for a filthy casual like me who couldnt care less about "never TCR" elitists.
Thanks dude, starting to understand things more and more. I've also seen that some cars dropped fully can stop the wheels turning as they should. Completely agree about tc right now, this ain't no GT Sport. I played against one of you're doppelgangers last night. Unless you were racing at 2am 😂
@@Kireth so you're just as tired as I am now 😂 maybe it was you. We're both in the Mazda but I remember seeing your car had no fuel left on the lap 6 pit. I'd been more Greta and jumped loads of cars.
TC1 can also still make your car spin out if you are not careful, especially if the turbo kicks in and the torque is going into heaven. I use TC1 aswell as ABS on weak with my controller, works pretty well.
I always did the ballast the opposite on FR cars. I would put weight at the rear, just enough to get 50/50 balance. Then tune everything else from there. This is how you would do it in real life. Maybe the game is different and making it front heavy is better?
I appreciate the video and pointing out that GT7 is really a new game. it feels very familiar but the settings and driving dynamics have undergone significant changes. I imagine TC1 is similar to how traction control off (but not 100% off) works on street cars in the real world. Cars like the Camaro, Mustang GT350 etc. are really designed to have the computer help provide that stable acceleration rather than simply pull power like a full on TC setting does. I would also mention as an aside to be careful with certain cars about lowering the ride height all the way. I watched another video where lowering the ride height all the way resulted in less turning angle available due to "rubbing" it is definitely a car by car issue though and not a criticism. just a warning about simply lowering the car on the front all the way on any and every vehicle.
Awesome tips, this shows how Polyphony definitely are great game developers but really make car physics a trial & error process, mostly errors!! LOL 😂, that's why it takes a year + of updates to make cars have realistic traction
I both love and hate how detailed the settings are. I love it because it makes the game that much more like a simulation but I hate how little I actual know about these things IRL.
Hey bro, thanks so much for your advices here, I´m driving daily race online with the clio RS and the difference it is obvious mate hehehe much appreciate it ;)
Gonna try this tonight with my Subi and my M3 ‘03 which I used for a lot of races. This is what is happening to me. So I will let you know how it turns out.
Personally I wouldn't add ballast first thing. Rather change the spring on the rear softer and slightly taller to compensate, add a little bit of camber on the rear, also stiffening the diff a bit.
Thanks this helped. Btw 100 ballast is to much. Braking performance dropped with 100. Also I agree gt sport tc off is completely different from gt 7 tc off
I never understood the issues with using TC, Even car manufactures will tell you the car they built is faster with the provided assists. We dont live in the old days of race cars with no power steering, TC, ABS, or other features. I love driving the ZL1 but have gone further into the suspension turning, this car loves negative camber and stiff springs.
throttle control to keep traction is always faster than using TC. And sometimes you WANT the tires to spin a little to help rotate the car in tight corners, which is impossible with TC on. Sometimes a little wheel spin can knock a lot off lap times
Great video, I have avoided the big American cars on anything other than oval tracks so far as I find they just don’t like turning. I’ll be sure to use your advice and give them another go.
0:43 thanks for the tuning vid but maybe you spun out because you slammed it coming out of a turn with no TCS in a rwd car, its a simulator game after all.
In the beginning most people just told me tires was the issue. Even though it's got an impact, the initial issues were still there. I have not played Gran Turismo since GT2 so I have no clue how the cars are supposed to behave according to the physics of this game, because I first need learn setups as well. I'm playing with the gamepad, so yes I have managed to spin around a few times already...
Can you post a tuning guide for RR drivetrain cars? I am having so much trouble with my 356 A/1500 GS Carrera ‘56, it just spins out of control on any slight curve.
instead of TCS why not lowering "acceleration sensitivity" to reach same objective ? e.g instead of 40 put 10... when keeping to higher levels both wheels spin at the same power causing the car to snap. Lowering is kind of a TCS
@@jonathanmjolnir8550 you need to compromise this value ... if you go too much on the lower end you will have a much controllable car when accelerating but at the cost of responsiveness... my suggestion is to start with a lower level then increase little by little untill you dont loose control . do it after an hairpin
@@Mike-1000 I do agree completely. But there are cars in real life Iv driven on track that do not have TC and don’t need it. and yet on GT7 have way more “spikey” Handling than they do in real life.
GT7 doesn't have good throttle input on controller. You'll go from 10% throttle to 70% throttle with a slight twitch of the finger. This has been an issue for years that was never addressed. They need to add a throttle and braking sensitivity slider and dead zone setting so we can adjust it. To me, TCS feels like more of a bandaid at the moment given we don't have sensitivity options. The default settings are not good at all. And I'm playing on PS5 with the Triggers on Strong so I'm less likely to squeeze a little more than I should. I'm not having that much of an issue with the handling, but it would be a smoother experience with sensitivity settings.
A little correction, more front downforce will increase oversteer, more rear downforce will increase understeer. TC should be used if it helps, this is an old myth spanning years now. There is even a video about this false Alien nonsense on TH-cam about why it's perfectly acceptable to use TC. Its even used in the real modern Motorsport world.
Sometimes intentionally spinning the wheels helps rotate the car, which is impossible wiht TC. Throttle control to keep traction is always faster than TC
I'm sure TC on one click didn't make that huge of a difference but you did have it all the way off on the car spinning out. Odd to do a comparican vid on spinning up the rears and then using TC on the one but not the other.
1st test is without tc and 2nd one is with. Not sure any of your modifications help but for sure tc works...should have done both tests with tc on or off to prove your point, now i call this clickbait...
the end result speaks for its self for sure. so props for this tutorial. yet I am just a bit confused on the explanation of the ballast with an FR or MR car, you say to put it to the front cause they have light front ends? yet FR have the engine in the Front, leading to the front end already have most the weight so adding more weight to the front (my head ) would lead to the rear being "lifted" and cause more tail spins.... mechanically can we explain to me what is happening in the applied physics? I would thinking adding more down force to the rear would counter act the ass end from fishing. I just want to grasp why this works.
You need the driver mod. That's one of the most stable boring cars in the game, just gotta learn to downshift more and know you're braking points. Trail braking is another skill that's important. You need the driver mod
You say you know how to drive on the game yet I can handle this car perfectly, wheel and pedals. Might just be my driving style, it's quite aggressive but clean
Try it without TC lol. I feather the throttle but it still breaks loose its really frustrating. Rear downforce helps. Adjust rear camber to -0.5 or 0.0
The only thing I can say I disagree with is adding the traction control. That is all preference everything else you’ve done yes. I can also say certain cars I have staggered the height front and back to adjust the understeer or oversteer problems
One thing I've learned is just how useful the "toe-in" and "toe-out" is for turning as it controls understeer and oversteer respectively. I was driving a Honda Civic Type R '20 and using the stock car it was pretty good at turning but not incredible. I then made my rear wheels neutral and my front wheels "toe-out" for the oversteer and i was flying through the racetrack managing every corner with ease. Another thing I love about it is that turning the toe-in/out barely affected PP which could be a way to make cars better without increasing PP too much.
Best way to figure it out is to do it for yourself. Pick a car that drives like poo poo and go one ticker at a time and see what it changes and how much it changes it. I’ve got myself a pretty decent system now where I can make just about any car drive really really well to the point where I’m challenging myself driving severely under powered cars in races just for funzies into my shock. I’m doing really well putting huge gaps between myself and 2nd place almost more fun, driving under powered cars at the limit then severely overpowered cars, just tender footing them.
The key thing seems to be the TC in this as it made more difference than all of the handling settings combined, this car is a bastard but anyone can chuck a bit of TC on and survive
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Thanks man, appreciate the video!
Was literally struggling with a Focus RS (500+bhp) and seemed impossible to drive. Now I have seen my ballast positioning was wrong and the initial torque setting too. Top tips man, thank you!
Hopefully it helps!!
Something that I think gets slept on as well, particularly with the focus, in increasing the rigidity. That combined with a good suspension set up will stop the lift off oversteer and tankslappers you get in that car.
This helped me so much with my rs! I couldn't drive it at all.
Don’t discount suspension tuning default settings are completely Wrong. Buy the fully customisable suspension (coilovers) Then simply remember softer equals More - priority of Grip in weight Balance. You have anti-roll bars / dampers compression (bump) and expansion (rebound) / natural frequency (Springs rate)
E.g.
anti-roll bars F6 R3
Damping bump F35 R23
Damping rebound F45 R39
Spring stiffness F2.20 R1.70
Or to much understeer
Anti roll bar F5 R3
And springs F2.25 R1.70
Those are example figures as a base setup to give you an idea, Rear wheel drive or AWD (in this game) cars may need a great difference, depending
In mid-engined or rear engined cars then the spring rate equalling grip changes along with the weight balance of the car. Sometimes less of a difference F2.20 R2.00 sometimes equal, and sometimes opposite
That should help Massively, Anyway “keep it simple stupid” haha
General rules with 4wd and prop
-first. a car with a lot of hp is unstabble by nature. You can only make good setup if you are gentle with your power and brakes during the first part of your test. The hard part is not to confuse oversteer and a to heavy foot on throttle ans brakes. Look for the limit of the grip and try to analyse the behavior of your car on brakes, on power and during slow and fast corners. Avoid tcs.
-Oversteer on power: lower the rear bump damping and lower the front rebound damping. It allows, on power, the front to go up and the rear to go down. More understeer on the front and more grip on the rear. The car will be more stable. If you suffer from understeer, just do the opposite.
-Oversteer on brake. Stiffen the front bump damping, and stiffen the rear rebound damping. It allows to keep more grip on the rear. The front will be less reactiv. If you suffer from understeer, just do the opposite.
-general oversteer, you want the front more stiff (natural frequency and antiroll bar)
Set correctly your lsd
If oversteer, Rear lsd Initial torque low, acceleration torque low, deceleration torque high
To be fair you did drive the first one without any TCS and you added it in the second run. This makes a difference as well.
As I explained this is part of the setup 👍
Absolutely need TCS
100% very helpful in these sort of cars
Just for comparison sake I think the TCS should be turn off for at least the initial comparison. I feel it's just TCS doing it's work rn. None the less good video!
I was going to say, any set up changes would have been needed by the addition of TCS.. show how it drives without TCS after set up change
mostly its the TC working here..
you can see how it is working from 3:39 for 4 soconds straight, trying to control the car... so yeah... kinda pointless, you should compare with tc off, but the rest is good.
Also for everybody whos interested:
with the Anti-Roll-Bar adjustment, you set if your car shall behave more oversteery or understeery.
stiffer rear ARB + softer front ARB = makes your car more oversteery
softer rear ARB + stiffer front ARB = makes your car more understeery
Great analysis and much appreciated 👍
Your corner speed has 10+/- in variation between the runs, also TC will make the car “driveable” without playing much with settings. The 100kg Ballast to the front will comprise the corner entry speed and promote under steer.
Better to have understeer than oversteering off the track, pretty silly say these things when you can clearly see that it works.
Better to just tune the suspension settings to eliminate all bad characteristics of the vehicle and enjoy a pleasant drive 👍
I love that you don't disrespect peoples time with 10 minute videos
🙌🙌🙌
Heads up for future videos, lowering some cars to the lowest setting can induce rubbing which has a really negative impacts on turn in for tight corners. Finding that sweet spot is key.
Yep great tip here, thanks
This is exactly what he did in the video, that's why it went from massive oversteer to understeering into the wall.
Agreed with everything you said - one more thing …add some more negative camber from minus 3 to minus 4
Cornering is much better when you go from -3 to -4 camber …this means the tyres will grip more. Given most circuits are cambered corners anyway. This will give you more traction and quicker speeds coming out of corners.
Great tip, thanks!
This is nonsense.
Thanks for the tips but i think it would be more interesting to see the effects first without TC and then show the TC.
Like this you can really feel the changes and it gets overshadowed by TC.
Adding the ballast all the way to rear helped out better for me. The extra weight on the rear wheels helps the car stick better for FR, then tune the initial torque on the lsd to manage the oversteer out of turns.
Hmm interesting
This... Adding ballast to the front will only induce understeer during turn entry. It will do little to nothing for when powering out of a turn which is when it is needed in this high torque vehicle. Adding to the rear will help for powering out of turns but most of the improvement is made in the diff honestly.
Thanks dude! This was actually really helpful!
Lowering your torque was all you had to do. Adding ballast, especially to the front is exactly why you slammed into the wall still at the end. Weight wins
races...or rather the lack of it.
Ok appreciate the tips.. however placing the ballast to the front in FR car increases the oversteers as the traction in the front increases by teh additional weight. Ballast is pushed to the front in some MRs but especially RRs (Porsches) as the rear wheels have great traction (due to engine location) but the from is light and thus understeer then snap oversteer hence ballast is used to give stability/traction to the front... the Diff+TC1 should resolve the oversteer in this car and maybe will reduce Rear roll bar to 0
Very useful Kireth. I was struggling with the 911 GT3 and putting ballast of just 50kg, suspension tweaks, and TC1 really helped in the wet weather Porsche cup menu book. Car was balanced really nicely.
Sounds counterintuitive but it works!
@@danielstokker Send them. My 911 is squirmy as heck on curves!
@@danielstokker what are they? Pls like this comment so ik you replied cus TH-cam doesn’t notify me about replies
Dude, you are a life saver. I could race the Escudo at all at Willow Springs and this solved my problem. The stability increased and no more spin outs. I used the trial track to practice settings and then got 3rd in the race and 1st on the other track. Excellent work.
Awesome love to hear it man!
I found ride height as low as possible on most cars scrubs tyres & causes vehicle not to turn properly on sharp turns ie hairpin at Suzuka. I always leave at least 5mm off lowest & it helps lots.
That, and stiffen the front suspension compression, expansion and frequency to prevent the front from bottoming out under heavy load. Add more negative front camber as well to give you more clearance during a full turn. Be wary of the steering angle modification as well. It could give too much steering angle and make the wheel have contact with the inner fender.
I started doing turning tests with my cars during tuning. Drive about 10mph and turn hard left and right, then do a replay and watch your clearance. Usually this gets away with it.
@@frantz4g63 cheers mate, I actually do stiffen suspension & add neg camber for same reason. I also add ballast to some cars & only use steering angle adaptor for drift cars. Thanks mate for welcome input always helps.
@@geoganicus7238 I spent enough time beating my head on a brick trying to figure it out 😅 it would be a shame not to share a solution since we both know tons of people are going to go through this since pretty much everyone loves slamming their cars to the ground. Glad you already had a solution for it man, because I wish I had the help when I was trying to figure it out. Didn't expect real world dimensional physics to take place in a game. Good thing me knowing a thing or two in the real world I was able to think logically 🤣
@@frantz4g63 spot on mate. Me too 🤣. I'm a motor mechanic by trade so that helps immensely. Feel a bit for those without mech knowledge trying to set up cars. Must be frustrating. It gets that way for me! Any help is always good. Cheers again.
@@geoganicus7238 ahh same here, mainly on rotary engines, but I do know my way around piston engines as well. Knowledge will get around since the game is new, then the early bloomers will catch on. Definitely will teach them a few aspects in the real world. Enjoy the game and stay informative my man 👍🏽
Nice vid mate, earned a sub. I see a lot of people talk about not using TC, like it's a badge of honour if you don't, which is nonsense. Most sports cars in reality have TC to some extent, so using no TC in GT7 would be "unrealistic". Maybe see you on the track. 🙏🏻
Completely agree - not a fan of this elitism
@@Kireth its not "elitism", most of us who know how to drive go TCS off in the real world as well because its intrusive and takes away from what the car can actually do. My S6, cousins ATS-V, buddies SC S197 Mustang, my old BMW M3 and so many more.... all hampered by factory TCS, and all shut off when going for a spirited drive or track day. My FD RX7 never had it, and it never should.
I understand there are TCS nazis out there hell bent on shaming people, but there are also TCS brigaders that think TCS this holy savior, when its really just teaching you to not learn the car, or manage your inputs like you should.
Driving with TCS is easy mode, TCS off is hard mode, real mode.... and its the only way to play.
Wow made a world of difference on the handling. Thanks.
No problem!
Kireth you just saved the day! I’ve been chasing my tail on the gt350 I’ve been using
No worries, that is a tricky car!
I got the old Camaro car and have horse power of 600 plus then next thing you know my car was just spinning 🤣🤣🤣🤣 good thing i found this video to help me out. Thank you sir.
No problem man!
Really helped, i was spinning out on every turn! lol thx
Try my GT7 Masterclass next! www.getfasteronline.com 🙌🙌🙌
I struggled so much with that Camaro! Thank you for the video, that really helped out a lot 👏🏻
Thanks James!!
i do agree most of time i play TC off against AI but for faster time i play tc1
🤘🤘🤘
that was awesome thanks so much. that happens to me so many times with so many cars now I know what to do .again thank you so much, keep them coming
No problem man!
You can even increase the lsd brake sensitivity 😉 example of lsd values for very oversteering cars: 5/5/60. If the car is too slow, you can try to increase the fist two and decrease the third gradually
Great tips, thanks!
Since you seem to know what you are talking about: How would i set up a diff for drifting?
@@danielstokker thanks!
Would love to see these types of vids on as many cars as possible, especially the popular cars like this one. Very nice!
Glad to say they are coming on this channel!
At the start the GT40 was uncontrollable garbage but after a couple tuning tweaks it became one of the best US cars in my garage
Love to hear that!
TC is viable, but practicing without TC eventually improves throttle control. I understand if you're top split, there is likely not much more to improve, which i understand. This isn't any sort of thing you have to do, as you probably should be racing with TC on, but it does slightly help.
Yeah some are straight up undrivable due to the gt7 physics and stupid unrealistic snap oversteer.
Agreed but the physics of some road cars are weird
Are people who consider themselves somewhat high level in GT driving with TC on? I played through the Cafe with TC1 because I couldn't get used to the oversteer, but once I was at Gr.4 and had driven a few tracks, I realized that TC was basically bottlenecking my turn radius. I just couldn't do hairpins for example at the same speed using the same like as the AI.
And you're absolutely right, that forcing yourself to turn off traction control teaches you better throttle control. After about a week with TC off, I'll be driving a Gr.3 car and sometimes I have to double check that the assists didn't get turned back on because I'm just getting better at being careful and precise.
I play on a controller and I honestly feel that granularity of brakes and throttle is a bigger disadvantage versus a wheel than steering.
@@DriftEJ20 I race in the top 20 drivers in Europe in daily races and used TC on this car 👍
@@Kireth Maybe I'll give it a shot again. I definitely lose corner exit speed versus with TC on because I'm babying the throttle whenever I'm not perfectly straight. Do you just blanket use TC1 on everything, or vary per car? I feel like I don't need it with Gr.4 much, but Gr.3 and certain street cars, or events restricted to comfort tires I do much more.
thanks for the video. The ZL1 gave me some trouble, even though i put racing hard on it. I dealt with it with Traction control 3, and pressing half R2 whenever i accelerate from near zero.
your video is very helpful, even for a filthy casual like me who couldnt care less about "never TCR" elitists.
Hey no problem man, really glad it helps!
Thanks dude, starting to understand things more and more. I've also seen that some cars dropped fully can stop the wheels turning as they should. Completely agree about tc right now, this ain't no GT Sport. I played against one of you're doppelgangers last night. Unless you were racing at 2am 😂
I was racing at 2am 😅
@@Kireth so you're just as tired as I am now 😂 maybe it was you. We're both in the Mazda but I remember seeing your car had no fuel left on the lap 6 pit. I'd been more Greta and jumped loads of cars.
Thanks, this made a massive difference.
No worries man!
This has really helped me mate! Thank you 😁
No worries Paul!
Nice one Kireth, will take these into account for future builds! Also yeah TC1 is basically a must for me right now on track, no shame using it 👍
TC1 can also still make your car spin out if you are not careful, especially if the turbo kicks in and the torque is going into heaven.
I use TC1 aswell as ABS on weak with my controller, works pretty well.
Hopefully we get some sweet road car builds!
I always did the ballast the opposite on FR cars. I would put weight at the rear, just enough to get 50/50 balance. Then tune everything else from there. This is how you would do it in real life. Maybe the game is different and making it front heavy is better?
The game is essentially exploitable like all games are! Unfortunately stock setups are sometimes basically undriveable
Makes sense why everyone is suddenly the greatest driver in sims in recent years. TC short for tomys my first car
I figured it had to do with the LSD I was cranking up TC up to 5 and still had trouble with the SRT
Great video. For sure many cars is undrivable without correct settings. I love to this Camaro, but driving it is NIGHTMARE!
100% it's crazy on stock!
Ah, it's the cars fault and not mine? Phew, what a relief. XD! In all seriousness, great video!
Thanks for the tips friend! This really helped me out on my Mustang GT road car in GT7! 👍🏿
So open diff and traction control well done excellent secret
Thank a lot 👏👏👏👌
Greetings from Germany Country Hessen 👍❤️
I appreciate the video and pointing out that GT7 is really a new game. it feels very familiar but the settings and driving dynamics have undergone significant changes. I imagine TC1 is similar to how traction control off (but not 100% off) works on street cars in the real world. Cars like the Camaro, Mustang GT350 etc. are really designed to have the computer help provide that stable acceleration rather than simply pull power like a full on TC setting does.
I would also mention as an aside to be careful with certain cars about lowering the ride height all the way. I watched another video where lowering the ride height all the way resulted in less turning angle available due to "rubbing" it is definitely a car by car issue though and not a criticism. just a warning about simply lowering the car on the front all the way on any and every vehicle.
Awesome tips, this shows how Polyphony definitely are great game developers but really make car physics a trial & error process, mostly errors!! LOL 😂, that's why it takes a year + of updates to make cars have realistic traction
Thank you so much for this video!!!!!
No problem!
I both love and hate how detailed the settings are. I love it because it makes the game that much more like a simulation but I hate how little I actual know about these things IRL.
Such a journey to learn though!
On some cars if ride height is all the way down the wheels won’t turn all the way
Yep definitely something to be aware of
Keep these vids coming, really appreciate the more technical vids.
More coming 👍
Hey bro, thanks so much for your advices here, I´m driving daily race online with the clio RS and the difference it is obvious mate hehehe much appreciate it ;)
Glad it helped mate and good luck!
Great video brother!!
Thanks man!
Thank you! Definitely trying this
Let us know how you find it!
@@Kireth helped out alot using the cayman got my first 2nd place trophy in the daily race!
Gonna try this tonight with my Subi and my M3 ‘03 which I used for a lot of races. This is what is happening to me. So I will let you know how it turns out.
Yes let us know please!
@@danielstokker please post your #s for the subaru! Thanks!!
Personally I wouldn't add ballast first thing. Rather change the spring on the rear softer and slightly taller to compensate, add a little bit of camber on the rear, also stiffening the diff a bit.
Love and appreciate this series of tips you've been doing. Keep them coming. Thank you!
Thankyou kireth
No problem!
Thanks this helped. Btw 100 ballast is to much. Braking performance dropped with 100. Also I agree gt sport tc off is completely different from gt 7 tc off
comparing apples to plums here. Tsc off spins, tsc on, no spin
Awesome tips. Much appreciated.
Tysm bro I literally couldn't drive the Hellcat, it's still difficult tho
I never understood the issues with using TC, Even car manufactures will tell you the car they built is faster with the provided assists. We dont live in the old days of race cars with no power steering, TC, ABS, or other features. I love driving the ZL1 but have gone further into the suspension turning, this car loves negative camber and stiff springs.
throttle control to keep traction is always faster than using TC. And sometimes you WANT the tires to spin a little to help rotate the car in tight corners, which is impossible with TC on. Sometimes a little wheel spin can knock a lot off lap times
great video! maybe you could do a video on the new C8 Corvette. The rear end really likes to come loose in on slight turns at top speed.
Great video, I have avoided the big American cars on anything other than oval tracks so far as I find they just don’t like turning. I’ll be sure to use your advice and give them another go.
0:43 thanks for the tuning vid but maybe you spun out because you slammed it coming out of a turn with no TCS in a rwd car, its a simulator game after all.
I think driver tuning would be the best for this guy
It works! My NSX stays on the track!
Great video, thank you sharing. TCS is a technology at our disposal, if that makes you perform better then just use it…
Completely agree 👍
There's too many players out there who look down upon using TC. Look at real motorsports and see how much they use TC.
This was great
All I want to do is drive me m3 e46 and it’s a nightmare to drive. I might try this on it and see how we go. Cheers brotha
In the beginning most people just told me tires was the issue. Even though it's got an impact, the initial issues were still there. I have not played Gran Turismo since GT2 so I have no clue how the cars are supposed to behave according to the physics of this game, because I first need learn setups as well. I'm playing with the gamepad, so yes I have managed to spin around a few times already...
Can you post a tuning guide for RR drivetrain cars?
I am having so much trouble with my 356 A/1500 GS Carrera ‘56, it just spins out of control on any slight curve.
I usually change the camber and caster of the rear wheels.
instead of TCS why not lowering "acceleration sensitivity" to reach same objective ? e.g instead of 40 put 10... when keeping to higher levels both wheels spin at the same power causing the car to snap. Lowering is kind of a TCS
Very good point 👍
where Can I adjust the acc sensitivity?
@@jonathanmjolnir8550 in tbe game itself under car settings (section LSD) there are 3 values, settings can be applied for each car before you race
@@ienaridens7979 Thanks.
@@jonathanmjolnir8550 you need to compromise this value ... if you go too much on the lower end you will have a much controllable car when accelerating but at the cost of responsiveness... my suggestion is to start with a lower level then increase little by little untill you dont loose control . do it after an hairpin
Iv felt like less off a driver having to use TC on 1 in GT7. Iv never used it in any previous GT games but seems like a must in GT7.
Why do you feel like less of a driver?
There's too many players out there who look down upon using TC. Look at real motorsports and see how much they use TC.
@@Mike-1000 I do agree completely. But there are cars in real life Iv driven on track that do not have TC and don’t need it. and yet on GT7 have way more “spikey” Handling than they do in real life.
GT7 doesn't have good throttle input on controller. You'll go from 10% throttle to 70% throttle with a slight twitch of the finger. This has been an issue for years that was never addressed. They need to add a throttle and braking sensitivity slider and dead zone setting so we can adjust it. To me, TCS feels like more of a bandaid at the moment given we don't have sensitivity options. The default settings are not good at all. And I'm playing on PS5 with the Triggers on Strong so I'm less likely to squeeze a little more than I should. I'm not having that much of an issue with the handling, but it would be a smoother experience with sensitivity settings.
TBH you don't need all the other stuff. Just setting TC to 1or 2 would solve the problem.
Start accelerating when you start steering out. The straighter the wheel the more gas you put.
Tires are key as well. Huge... Huge difference in street tires vs Slicks. Although I would say they have the Hard Slick sorta screwed up.
I was doing this, but I was missing the ballast. Thanks.
Np!
Found my way to grip up my cars. My cars are just as good as it was on gt sport. Il post a video later😊👍🏼
Your tips are really helpful, do you have a link for your discord channel
Lol I can hear the gt7 elite’s crying about tc .. well done for telling the truth
TC literally solves the problem. I don't wanna use TC, I'm not a noob.
A little correction, more front downforce will increase oversteer, more rear downforce will increase understeer. TC should be used if it helps, this is an old myth spanning years now. There is even a video about this false Alien nonsense on TH-cam about why it's perfectly acceptable to use TC. Its even used in the real modern Motorsport world.
Sometimes intentionally spinning the wheels helps rotate the car, which is impossible wiht TC. Throttle control to keep traction is always faster than TC
I'm sure TC on one click didn't make that huge of a difference but you did have it all the way off on the car spinning out. Odd to do a comparican vid on spinning up the rears and then using TC on the one but not the other.
Well done ❤️
They game even utilizes TC in the license demonstrations for at least a and b to get gold times.
Hello Kireth! If you show us the Last licence of gt7 Porsche spa is very difficult to pass! 💪🏻💪🏻🎮🎮
1st test is without tc and 2nd one is with. Not sure any of your modifications help but for sure tc works...should have done both tests with tc on or off to prove your point, now i call this clickbait...
TC is part of the setup mate 👍
@@Kireth TC is assist not car/tuning settings
@@Kireth I did use stock car without TC and with TC without tuning and got the same result you had in this video. It is clickbait.
It's part of the setup - how to make these cars more driveable 👍
Yep won't get many 1st' with tc online
the end result speaks for its self for sure. so props for this tutorial. yet I am just a bit confused on the explanation of the ballast with an FR or MR car, you say to put it to the front cause they have light front ends? yet FR have the engine in the Front, leading to the front end already have most the weight so adding more weight to the front (my head ) would lead to the rear being "lifted" and cause more tail spins.... mechanically can we explain to me what is happening in the applied physics? I would thinking adding more down force to the rear would counter act the ass end from fishing. I just want to grasp why this works.
It's a great question. While since I looked at this, but here's another video that could be interesting? th-cam.com/video/PF2p_fzGs6U/w-d-xo.html
You need the driver mod. That's one of the most stable boring cars in the game, just gotta learn to downshift more and know you're braking points. Trail braking is another skill that's important. You need the driver mod
sometimes if you lower the car all the way it effect the wheel turning radius
You say you know how to drive on the game yet I can handle this car perfectly, wheel and pedals. Might just be my driving style, it's quite aggressive but clean
Yea bro is just trash
Try it without TC lol. I feather the throttle but it still breaks loose its really frustrating. Rear downforce helps. Adjust rear camber to -0.5 or 0.0
The only thing I can say I disagree with is adding the traction control. That is all preference everything else you’ve done yes. I can also say certain cars I have staggered the height front and back to adjust the understeer or oversteer problems
One thing I've learned is just how useful the "toe-in" and "toe-out" is for turning as it controls understeer and oversteer respectively. I was driving a Honda Civic Type R '20 and using the stock car it was pretty good at turning but not incredible. I then made my rear wheels neutral and my front wheels "toe-out" for the oversteer and i was flying through the racetrack managing every corner with ease. Another thing I love about it is that turning the toe-in/out barely affected PP which could be a way to make cars better without increasing PP too much.
Best way to figure it out is to do it for yourself. Pick a car that drives like poo poo and go one ticker at a time and see what it changes and how much it changes it. I’ve got myself a pretty decent system now where I can make just about any car drive really really well to the point where I’m challenging myself driving severely under powered cars in races just for funzies into my shock. I’m doing really well putting huge gaps between myself and 2nd place almost more fun, driving under powered cars at the limit then severely overpowered cars, just tender footing them.
i used this setup and i was 40 seconds ahead of everyone in a 700 PP race
Love it man 🙌🙌🙌
Which is weird as I own this car in metal and do track it and it handles great on a track on the street it kills my back
💁♂️💁♂️💁♂️
If only GT added a feature like the FM clutch pedal vs getting the steering with clutch setup
Hilarious to see it’s the ZL1 you use as an example. I got mine to like 950 hp for shits and giggles.
95% of the work was done by TCS
balast in the front makes it even worst, so the TC makes 120% of the work 😅
i cant take it serius
The key thing seems to be the TC in this as it made more difference than all of the handling settings combined, this car is a bastard but anyone can chuck a bit of TC on and survive
Or a fair comparison, drive same without tc and let’s see what happens as you did in the initial run