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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ส.ค. 2024
- Since Ford decided to bury a flawed and failure-prone sensor deep within the dash of the vehicle, here’s a 45 min - 1 hour shortcut that can save you upwards of a grand for someone to pull the dash and do this for you.
I never replaced any of the plastic pieces I removed, and the A/C worked perfectly afterwards. Defrost/AC airflow was not affected in any noticeable way.
If you don’t have a dremel, you can use a hammer and chisel or similar - the plastic is hard and brittle. Easy to break.
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That strap is not for preventing theft, it's for keeping that in place in the event of airbag deployment. Now that u cut it, it will fly at your face if given an accident
Someone else pointed that out, it's a good correction I wish I had mentioned. Guess I just won't crash then
I apologize if my comment came off snarky. It was just meant to reflect what will happen if given an accident. I almost cut mine when I installed my head unit but someone stopped me and explained.
@@tams7arlynn761 no offense taken, I pinned your comment because it's good advice, people should be aware of the correct purpose of the strap
I wonder If theres anyway to rig it after cutting the strap? Even an ugly clamp of some sort on the top of it--which would look bad but maybe keep it in place?
I don't buy it. The two 8 mm bold holding down the compartment is sufficient. Also, how are a driver's airside bag and passenger airbag affecting this centerpiece during airbag deployment? If this compartment is flying off during an accident, you have bigger problems. This is just my opinion.
I thought the same thing about doing this when I watched a video of how to do this the dumb way. This should be in all the ford repair manuals. I am bowing to you..
The stealership wanted to charge me $980.00 for replacing that sensor, now thanks to your video I will do it myself, thanks a lot!!!
Lmfao - $1k they’re out of their minds. Glad I can help people. Back when I made this video I didn’t know how common this was
Would you believe I thought about doing this to my fusion. 6 months ago but wasnt sure it would work. You just confirm my theory wasnt garbage. Great minds think alike. Thanks a lot
Omg, I’ve been out of AC for over a year now, I’m not going to lie I was so scared to try this but I’m so happy I did!! AC worked instantly and I was so relieved that the cuts and holes don’t even make a difference, thank you so much for sharing, Im beyond thankful!!! And the best part you saved me 800 dollars! Here’s five stars you deserve them! ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
You’re welcome and Thanks so much! Glad I could help u and others with this BS
Omg thanks men, I went to a mechanic, and he said to me that they need to pull off the entire board to change the evaporator temperature sensor and the worse part was they wanna charge me 1k for that, and following your video only took me 1h and 35 $ , my respect bro 😎😎
That’s what I like to hear if 10% of people who watched this video uses this trick, that means I kept $6,000,000 out of greedy dealership’s pockets 😎
Man, thanks so much. My daughter has ac again. This is the easiest and best way to replace this sensor. I had a hard time removing the sensor but once I did it was so easy. Ac worked instantly.
Yes sir glad it helped 👍
How did you remove it? I'm trying now. Do you pull it? UnScrew? I'm lost
This video was instructional going through the steps for this access hack and I thank you for that, but you failed to mention how difficult it was to get that sensor out, LOL. It's not just a simple twist. My hands are about medium and I had a hell of a time getting that sensor out. You won't be able to grab that sensor with your fingers and twist. You'll create almost a fist if you tried and there isn't enough room in that cavity to do that. I barely got my finger on the locking tab to rotate it. Another video mention using a mirror and scribe, so this is a critical step. Removing the wires from the sensor was also a PITA. That locking tab was relentless. Getting the replacement sensor back was a lot easier. Anyway, if you're all thinking about doing this, it's doable, but pulling out the sensor is the challenging part. I'm glad this video was created because I've wondered if it was accessible from the compartment and it is. I'm not worried about the damage because I am now on my fourth sensor and this to me is just an access point for the future. I've had my sensor repaired the correct way by the dealership twice, at the time it was around $750. I only paid for it that one time because the replacement failed within two years, so their guaranteed parts and labor kicked in. Suckers. I recommend doing this if you're mechanically inclined. This is not for the average Joe.
thanks for your video my wife and i changed this sensor on a 2012 ford fusion. we used a mirror, lights, camera inside to see the sensor in position so we could unlock it. It wasn't an easy job, but it was possible and now it works.
Glad to hear it. Easier than pulling the dash. I think I remember doing something similar
Not too shabby, it worked on my 2010 SEL before I ran out of refrigerant, for a separate leak.
This video fails to mention some really important things:
1. screw/bolt sizes. 7mm to remove the speaker and 8mm to remove the console.
2. to remove the console, you also have to disconnect the wiring for the passenger airbag indicator and your hazard light button. It works best if you come at it from the back and go between the vents. There will be just enough cable length to rotate and unplug these.
3. The safety cable on the console is to keep it in place should the airbag ever deploy - which has already been addressed in the comments.
Good video overall, but really should have included those details. It's tricky since with this approach it's very hard to see what you're doing, if you can even see at all - but it's doable.
Other notes:
The evap sensor itself is keyed - it only goes in one way. The sensor should be inserted at about the 7 o'clock position.
What is the symptom of bad evap sensor? My ac shuts off and comes back on . No air blows out of the vent. When it comes on , it blows cold again
I know this is a late response, but what you're describing is almost certainly the blower motor resistor for the blower fan. This is a very simple fix. Pretty cheap part you can find on Amazon, and there are vids here on youtube on how to fix. When it goes out or is failing the blower motor will not spin at all. Cold air means your A/C system is working fine.
A failing evap temp sensor will cause warm or slightly cold A/C air because it signals the compressor to shut off early, but will not cause any issues with the blower motor like you're experiencing.
My son and did it in about hour and half. Are hands where to big! Found small screwdrive to help disconnect wire, sensor still in . Replace with the new senosr letting it set there. Cover up hole with gorillia tape lol. Blowing cold air for about a month.
Way out of the box - great work bro!!
After doing this to my 2007 ford fusion se v6 i can confirm that its a little different for the older models just an extra plastic in the way …..no rattles after (did not replace plastics) a/c and defrost work great no airflow lost .!.!. Ty for this quick shortcut
you're welcome Jose - glad it worked on an older model too
Jose I have a 2008 fusion-U wouldn’t happen to have any pictures or video of how u did it?
Hey so how did you do it? Can you explain or something? I would really appreciate it.
Although my fusion doesn't have the speaker there, I have replaced the sensor the way you have. It doesn't affect airflow at all. And the air in my car works like new.
Glad to have helped!
@@jtfoog5220 sorry, but I followed josh Andrews video, I was commenting on the airflow issue during your video.
Thank you for this video. After changing the ac door actuator on my 2011 fusion se , I realized I also had to change my evap sensor. This worked out so much. I did have to use needle nose pliers to remove. My hands were too big to try and twist. Thank again.
NP - yeah i guess it’s a little harder to twist out than I made it seem.
Great video it saved me hours from having to pull the whole dash. The only thing that you really need to do is duct tape up the area that you removed. Because it does effect the defrost. I noticed that when my windshield iced up it took a lot longer to defrost then normal . Other than that awesome job. Thank you. Also use the good 3m cold weather duct tape that has the foil backing. It’s worth the extra money. It won’t dry out or loose it’s adhesion over time like regular duct tape
Good call I might add that to the description when I get a chance. I have noticed poor defrost performance but didn’t connect the dots somehow. I thought it may have been that way prior to my “repair”
Did you replace it ?...in that way..because this guy..just show..the hole..never remove the sensor?
That strap is to prevent that whole cubby from flying out during a crash
Hmm, thanks…. You’d think they’d just use a couple more fasteners instead of a plastic strap
My guess is it took him longer to get cutters in there to cut the strap then it would have for him to disconnect it at the end under the dash.
@@robertrobeson1546 you can’t disconnect it. Needs to be cut, at least in this job, which is a shortcut and not the proper way.
@@jtfoog5220 I guess I'm a genius then because it took me all of about 5 seconds to follow it down to where it attaches to the dash bar and about another 10 seconds to disconnect it. It would have taken at least 30 to walk to the tool box to get a pair of side cutters.
@@robertrobeson1546 nice work 👍
Just did this on our 2012 Ford fusion today. Took about 2 hrs due to the fact my hands are not as small as I thought. Had the wife get in there and twist the evac temp sensor out and twist the new one back in. We have cold air!! Shop wanted to charge us $1400. Only cost us $53 for the part.
Yessir - Glad to help! Screw them for having the balls to charge 1400. Happy this vid is still saving people money
yeah im going to be doing this tomorrow on my 2006 mecury milan same problem took it to a ford shop and they said it is 1200 to do it. i just did not want to pull the dash. and this will save alot of time and 💰.. i was trying to find a way and then i foud this video... thx for the information and instructions
1200…. These people r crooks. They should be covering this for free, it’s a known bad sensor they used for years. Good luck 👍
did it to day and now ac blows cold as hell thx again
Im to try this tomorrow ... l wish to help me is no ac on my fusion ... is the hell there in the day is fuck in 107° in north carolina
Good luck bro
Smart man ,Thank you sir
Worked! Thank you!
I cannot twist the sensor back in, just left it hanging in the hole. My try again after summer, works well lol
@@beammeupscottsp7952 lol, I guess that would work. I wasted a ton of time trying to get it twisted in for no reason haha
My Ex has an 11 Ford Fusion and the A/C quit due to thermistor going bad. I tried to replace the $14.00 part ,but felt I was getting in over my head. You have to remove the center console and move the dash back as the thermistor is at the very front of the dash where it meets the firewall. I stopped when I moved the dash and the whole steering wheel moved with the dash. Since her car was still being paid for I was hesitant to cut the dash in any way. I had done the resister in the glove box on the connector and that worked until we could get it fixed by a mechanic. If I had another Fusion and this happened now, I thinks I'd cut the dash like this.
Yeah pulling a dash is no joke, shame on Ford for these shoddy sensors and poor location
I have a 2013 and trying to locates where it would be
Sorry I only am aware of the generation of fusion that I own. I’d try and see if you could locate a wiring diagram on the internet - it’s possible it’s the same or similar sensor in the same location but I couldn’t be sure of that
My Mercury Milan doesn’t have those bolts tho on the top can I still pull it off with the flat head
@@downbaddub what year is it? I think you should be fine, but I’ve never worked on a Milan so I can’t be sure. Try to see if you can find an HVAC diagram online for it
@@jtfoog5220 I found out that I have to take of the plate on the radio and the bolts are connected under that instead of the dash storage hopefully underneath it should be the same
anyone know if this would work on a ford fusion sport 3.5v6 i really don’t want to do some i don’t have to do lmk thank you!!!
Should I vacuum out any of the plastic debris around the sensor after? Not wanting it to all blow out the vents lol
If there's lots of small pieces, good idea. I think mine mainly broke off in large chunks
I've got a Ford Fusion 2012. It's not blowing are out of the front vents. Just the towards the defrost vents. Any suggestions??
Maybe blend door / blend door actuator. sounds like a different problem than this vid. good luck
Hello what does this sensor do? So I have 2011 Ford Fusion and the ac doesn’t work 100% it’s not cold enough, we have put Freon but that doesn’t work. I recently change the ac module part because basically there were times when we would put the ac all the way but for some reason it will start blowing warm air out nowhere and I would turn it off and turn it on a bit later and it will Throw cold air again. We’re unsure of what it might be. Thanks it advance
Hi Lutdalia. Has been a while since I recorded this, but I think this sensor exists to monitor the temperature of the condenser and turn off the AC if it freezes. The problem happens when the sensor fails, so the car thinks the condenser is frozen and shuts the AC off.
What you are describing sounds like the same issue I had.
It might also be the blend door actuator, which controls the flow of heated / cooled air to your cabin.
That's my kind of method right there lol.
Hello if you have time to answer this question. 2012 Ford Fusion Sport cross traffic system fault on dashboard lights on? Car will not start either after picking up from shop my dashboard has been opened and electrical wiring stereo system messed with by shop. Any suggestions
Hey Sharon sorry ifs hard to say, if the shop was messing with it, I’d take it back there
Thank you.. I know exactly what place vandalized the car.. pursuing civil suit. Thank you for response
If your ac isn’t blowing cold, pull out the fog light and run it and see if that helps. Enjoy. Sounds fake but it worked for us.
Hey Rob thanks for that advice. For this specific issue (bad Evap temp sensor) that sadly won’t help, but I have heard a bunch of people report that your fix worked for fusions/Milans etc. not sure why, hard to guess what’s happening electronically on newer cars
@@jtfoog5220 yeah it’s crazy that the fog lamps are connected fuse wise or wiring to the ac compressor but it worked on my sons old beater like a charm. (Meaning zero time, for the moment, for the old man,er me, to be on my back turning a wrench). 2006 Fusion
What did the sensor look like ? My AutoZone has two different ones and can't figure it out
Look up part number AX163 on partsgeek.com, that should be similar. I’m sure there are multiple that would work, it’s just a resistor and wire connector.
No prende el abanico del a/c
Estoy usando el traductor de Google, así que me disculpo si esto no tiene sentido. Si su motor de CA o ventilador no enciende, esta no es la solución correcta para usted. Recomendaría reemplazar el motor del ventilador, creo que está detrás de la guantera del pasajero.
This didn't work on my 2010 Ford Fusion. There's a metal bar going across underneath this compartment.
Sucks - what trim level is it? you mean once you got the part with the AC vents out there was a metal bar?
What’s the symptoms of it going bad
AC will start to cut on and off - you'll be driving with AC working suddenly it will get warmer. it happens more and more frequently until your AC stops working completely.
Same symptoms as low refrigerant. so make sure you test your refrigerant levels before trying this
How do you get the sensor out? Is there a clip?
Literally on the step of trying to get the sensor out, if anyone could help me out it would be much appreciated
@@Gellossgamer try rotating it counter clockwise. It’s kind of hard I think I used a screw driver. Sorry for not being more clear in the video.
@@Gellossgamer it locks in by rotating, there’s no clip
@@jtfoog5220 got it thanks! Can’t believe it didn’t fix my ac though… I had the compressor replaced ($800) and did the evap sensor on my own. It worked shortly after replacing evap but then went back to not working… thank you for the video though.
@@Gellossgamer that sucks... wish I could help troubleshoot more but the last time I looked into this was when I made this video lol
Maybe it's a dumb question but did you recover the refrigerant first? The mechanic is swearing that my freon needs to be pumped out before I switch out this part...they also told me this part would cost $120.00. Look it up online...$20-30.
Lol you need a new mechanic…. They’re completely lying to you. This is a plug-and-play part, you can switch it out no problem without worrying about anything else. Either they are clueless or they want your money.
PS I used the cheap 20 dollar part too and it’s fine
I have used them for years for oil changes and alignments and tire patches, minor things, etc. But the staff has almost completely changed since the last oil change...and when this new guy was talking to me, every warning light went off in my brain and said "Do not, repeat do not, give this man $1300."
Thank you for confirming! I'll get this handled today. 😁
@@mistygrady282 good luck!!
the only thing I can think of… maybe your refrigerant was also low in addition to this part being broken?
Either way my advice is switch the 20 dollar part first, then see if the AC works. You could have a leak in the system as well, but better to work from cheapest to more expensive
I just need to say this before I stop spamming you, holy shit, I cannot believe this man looked me in my eyes and said, "It's illegal to not recapture the freon before replacing the sensor because it will leak," I'm just dying.
Can anybody here give me the part #? Thanks
@@Buddycoop1 try AX163
Wow, holy dash rattles. You can replace the temp sensor in about 1 hour by partial dash removal and then you won't have a terrible noisy dash.
Lol. Show me a video of you doing that in your driveway in 1 hour and I will take this video down.
@jtfoog I just pulled a dash in a 2010 to replace a heater core and put it back in, took 2 hours. It's actually a lot less work then all of the hacking that was done in your video
@@gorillawrenchin If you value your dash not being cracked, and it truly only took 2 hrs then your way is definitely superior. However, I was quoted almost $1k to pull the dash for this job and any tutorial online I found showed a massive job fully pulling the dash. I figured this was better for regular people with minimal money and mechanic skills like myself
@jtfoog all I'm saying is, for the amount of effort that is put into what you are doing, literally could have the dash out of the way. Also, the labor time for it only shows 3.5 hours, abd the part us cheap, so a shop should be charging in the 500 to 600 range honestly for just the temp sender
on a 2008 fusion the labor time is 6.9 hours
This looks like it'd be more aggravating than actually pulling the dash.
Yeah depending on how many dashes you’ve pulled you may be right. For someone with little experience this way is most likely easier
book time for the dash pull is 6.9 hours, almost definitely way worse
I do these at the dealership and at home and I pull the dash board and steering column. . only takes me 1hour 15 mins start to finish
You do an entire dash pull and steering column and put it all back in 75 mins? impressive.....
Most amateurs (like me) would waste an entire afternoon on this, so I posted this vid to help others like myself
@@DeepSouthernTX If you do it that way won't you have to manually turn the AC on and off so it doesn't freeze?
@@jtfoog5220 no because you Disconnect the old sensor and install the new one and run the wire all the way to where the other one was connected. Basically it's just like moving the original sensor to a different position in the box
This video shows which wires where cut and replace with wires from the new sensor
how much would you charge. I would gladly spend $200 in gas and $300 for your labor
Wowwwww
That sensor is TRASH. I replaced it when I got my car around 40k miles. And ac stopped working again. Assuming it’s this damn sensor again. First time I pulled the dash myself. Which isn’t too hard just time consuming.
Really frustrating. hope it worked out for you
I thought I'd never get that stupid thing twisted enough to pull it out! That Ford engineer should be sentenced to life in a 12x12 room full of Legos and no shoes!!!
Agreed 😂 completely absurd to bury any sensor in such a hard to reach area, especially one that will be exposed to moisture and fail over time. They don’t want you fixing your own vehicle but want you to buy a new one. The older I get the more jaded I become towards “newer better” vehicles and products.
I somehow have even more problems than before. Please don’t do this
Must have done something wrong
Really don't butcher your dash not hard to lay the dash back and replace the sensor. The sensor goes open fooling the system thinking that its too cold and cuts off the ac. Easy fix.
How much would you charge to do this..
Ill definately know not to buy a crapped out car from you now. 🤣🤣 This is pure laziness..... only degenerate mechanics would do this.
Hey Daniel thanks for the input… I figure if you were gonna buy a car from me, you’d rather have working AC instead of needing to pull the entire dash (or pay someone $800+) to do it. Not a mechanic, just a guy that likes to avoid funding dealership tech’s vacations