thanks for the video i realised i was putting the connector in the wrong way round. your video explains it clearly and i was able to do the crimps on my SN28b crimp tool
Finally! Thank you! I have the exact same crimper and no one, until now, has ever exposed the presence of that inner edge. I gave up mostly on using these connectors because I could never get the darn thing to crimp well. Too many times I would damage the female interface section. I used your method and hit it spot on with an extremely good crimp on the first try.
A trick I use to not have to insert the wire blind is to crimp the empty connector in one of the bigger dies first, which should let you shove the wire in with enough friction to hold on, then crimp it again in the proper sized one
I'm super thankful for all the tutorials on how to crimp but modern cameras just make it so hard to focus that I feel cross-eyed after two videos haha thanks again. I've been doing it close to correct but off by a tiny bit which means I keep failing haha
Thank you! I've been trying on and off again to get these "easy" little custom Dupont cable ends to crimp how they should, but very few people show the process of doing so up close, and nobody else (that I've seen so far) shows the entire process up close. Cleary, I've misunderstood how far the wire should stick into the connector. Not by a lot, but probably enough to make it mess up. Hopefully, I'll now be able to get it to work!
Thanks a lot for the clear video! It's not easy filming something so close-up and the effort is appreciated. I purchased a new and very expensive PC case with a broken front panel wire. I had already exchanged the case once before for a scratch on the inside of the RGB panel, so instead of making another long trip, I decided to repair the break myself. Thankfully, Amazon had a USB header kit and crimper/stripper. All that was needed was a video showing how to insert the pin into the crimper. Asus really needs to work on the quality control especially since both of these problems occurred inside the factory. Thanks again!
Wow! Nice Video to show how to do this, I have been trying to get mine done. But I jack em up a lot. I think after watching your video I might get a better crimp. I never knew about that shelf in there, running up stairs to my work space to check mine out.
Thanx! Something to try when I get home. I have a crimper like that, but have still been using my needlenose pliers as I don't have the hang of my crimper yet. ;-)
got the same tool today but from a different brand. the "w" in the tool which folds over the connector was so bad from production that it didn't crimp at all but made the connector stick to the tool.. weird thing haha need a different one then. thank you for the video!
@David Malawey Yay! I couldn't have done it without you, thanks. The jaws on my plier were backwards, so they got unscrewed and flipped 180 degrees. Next, I found that a 3mm bare wire end is the best. Measure the thickness of the insulation and use that as a guide, or mark the insulation alongside a metric ruler with a Sharpie pen. Also, mark at 2mm beyond that to tell when that mark is flush with the end of the metal insert. And, I stick a pair of scissors in an induction coil for a count of 8 and use them to strip the wire. Very neat results!
If you have 28 AWG wire you NEED a 28 AWG rated pin. Same goes for all sizes of wire. There is no range built into these type of pins. The jaw width matters also when you match your tool to your pin length to make it easer to crimp the pin correctly. Most cheap crimp tools are too skinny and do a bad crimp job. A good tool will make a heart shaped crimp on the wire connection and a circle around the wire insulation creating a wire strain for the pin. Your tool seems to be making a heart shaped crimp on both, I don't know if that is good or bad though. I wish that there were clear and informative TH-cam videos from the companys that sell these products. I have found very few. And the tools they sell fetch $1,600.00 US dollars. Really ! I feel your pain. Good video though !
Done with the proper tooling (the $300-2000 original tools from the contact manufacturer) they are a joy to do. Doing them with inexpensive generic tooling is a nightmare.
Great success !!! These little bastards are a pain in my bottom. I see people doing these 10 a minute. Like... whaaaaa ? I found success with a 2-3mm exposed wire.
Yet another tutorial showing the categorically incorrect tool for these contacts. The offset, slanted insulation wings of these contacts _requires_ a tool with a circular insulation crimp, not the m-shaped crimp that is needed for the (symmetrical, squared off) conductor wings. The result of using an m-shape crimp on the offset wings is the mangled crimp shown in the video.
They were not invented by DuPont. They were invented by Berg Electronics, and the product line was/is called BergCon. The company was acquired and resold multiple times, and one of those owners was DuPont. They resold it, and it ultimately ended up as part of Amphenol. I don’t think the patent matters, whether expired or not. The cheap Chinese DuPont connectors are a cost-reduced design with vastly reduced mating cycles. The original, called Mini-PV, is rated for a thousand mating cycles, and will continue to work ok for longer than that. The cheapest clones loosen to the point of unusability in less than 10 mating cycles. Nobody actually copies the Mini-PV design because it’s much more complex to make (each contact has a separate leaf spring inside made from a different metal than the contact body). Every other design, whether expensive big-name (like TE AMPMODU and Molex SL) or cheap clone, uses contacts made from a single piece of metal. Annoyingly, the appearance alone doesn’t tell you the quality. Harwin M20 connectors look absolutely identical to cheap Chinese DuPont (so identical that I suspect the Chinese may actually be clones of M20), but M20 works well and doesn’t loosen after 10 cycles. I guess their alloy is very different.
Dang that's a really good question. I received it for free from Digikey and then I could never find it again. I guess Digikey has to love you. That ruler remained in the lab of my old office and I really want a new one. If you find it for sale post a link!
22AWG is on the high side (though special 18-20AWG versions of these contacts exist). My impression is that over the years, as the electronics world has moved to thinner wires in general, these connectors have tended to be used with thinner and thinner wire. You can get contacts for wire as thin as 32AWG. When used with individual stranded wires, most commercially bought jumpers use 24-28AWG. Standard 0.05” pitch ribbon cable is 26 or 28AWG, with the majority in the wild being 28AWG since it’s cheaper. Since that cable is designed for insulation-displacement connectors (and those can only accept very narrow gauge ranges), there’s no market for versions with gauges 24 or thicker, nor 30 or thinner.
Dude. Why can't everyone be as thorough as you? Thanks bro!
Thank you! 4 years on, this video was immensely helpful!
Best crimp video I have came across so far. Thanks.
thanks for the video i realised i was putting the connector in the wrong way round. your video explains it clearly and i was able to do the crimps on my SN28b crimp tool
great explanation and truly apreciate you went the extra mile with your macro lense. thanks a lot!
Thanks for posting this. I totally get that it was tough to film with the macro lens, and MAN is it tough to watch, but its the content that counts
Finally! Thank you! I have the exact same crimper and no one, until now, has ever exposed the presence of that inner edge. I gave up mostly on using these connectors because I could never get the darn thing to crimp well. Too many times I would damage the female interface section. I used your method and hit it spot on with an extremely good crimp on the first try.
I watched several videos on the subject and this has been the most helpful. Thank you!
That is awesome feedback. Good luck with your project!
Thanks for this. After struggling to get these right, this was a big help. Seriously thank you
You should prolly get a link for the tool used. Thanks for sharing helped a lot with my wiring project!
A trick I use to not have to insert the wire blind is to crimp the empty connector in one of the bigger dies first, which should let you shove the wire in with enough friction to hold on, then crimp it again in the proper sized one
Thank you cant imagin how hard it is to hold that stuff in focus Great joB!
It really is! I have new brackets to improve this year =) Do you use Anderson connectors?
I'm super thankful for all the tutorials on how to crimp but modern cameras just make it so hard to focus that I feel cross-eyed after two videos haha thanks again. I've been doing it close to correct but off by a tiny bit which means I keep failing haha
Thank you! I've been trying on and off again to get these "easy" little custom Dupont cable ends to crimp how they should, but very few people show the process of doing so up close, and nobody else (that I've seen so far) shows the entire process up close. Cleary, I've misunderstood how far the wire should stick into the connector. Not by a lot, but probably enough to make it mess up. Hopefully, I'll now be able to get it to work!
Thanks David - it was good to see it up close!
Thank you for this!!! Very very helpful. Good job.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks a lot for the clear video! It's not easy filming something so close-up and the effort is appreciated.
I purchased a new and very expensive PC case with a broken front panel wire. I had already exchanged the case once before for a scratch on the inside of the RGB panel, so instead of making another long trip, I decided to repair the break myself. Thankfully, Amazon had a USB header kit and crimper/stripper. All that was needed was a video showing how to insert the pin into the crimper. Asus really needs to work on the quality control especially since both of these problems occurred inside the factory. Thanks again!
Wow! Nice Video to show how to do this, I have been trying to get mine done. But I jack em up a lot. I think after watching your video I might get a better crimp. I never knew about that shelf in there, running up stairs to my work space to check mine out.
Thanx! Something to try when I get home. I have a crimper like that, but have still been using my needlenose pliers as I don't have the hang of my crimper yet. ;-)
I can't believe how small the pins are on my 2013 Tacoma ECM and other connections in modern vehicles now.
Thanks man, you explained it really well.
got the same tool today but from a different brand. the "w" in the tool which folds over the connector was so bad from production that it didn't crimp at all but made the connector stick to the tool.. weird thing haha need a different one then. thank you for the video!
Good demo.
@David Malawey Yay! I couldn't have done it without you, thanks. The jaws on my plier were backwards, so they got unscrewed and flipped 180 degrees. Next, I found that a 3mm bare wire end is the best. Measure the thickness of the insulation and use that as a guide, or mark the insulation alongside a metric ruler with a Sharpie pen. Also, mark at 2mm beyond that to tell when that mark is flush with the end of the metal insert. And, I stick a pair of scissors in an induction coil for a count of 8 and use them to strip the wire. Very neat results!
Fantastic vid. Thanks for the work it took.
Thank you very much. Great tutorial.
Great Video
Thanks a bunch for this video!!!
If you have 28 AWG wire you NEED a 28 AWG rated pin. Same goes for all sizes of wire. There is no range built into these type of pins.
The jaw width matters also when you match your tool to your pin length to make it easer to crimp the pin correctly.
Most cheap crimp tools are too skinny and do a bad crimp job.
A good tool will make a heart shaped crimp on the wire connection and a circle around the wire insulation creating a wire strain for the pin.
Your tool seems to be making a heart shaped crimp on both, I don't know if that is good or bad though.
I wish that there were clear and informative TH-cam videos from the companys that sell these products. I have found very few. And the tools they sell fetch $1,600.00 US dollars. Really !
I feel your pain. Good video though !
"clicky" you said "clicky" I will say "ratchet action" but WOW what a great explanatory super close up video. Thanks
First time I got it perfectly I was shocked. In Hell they crimp Dupont connectors all day, I am sure of it
Done with the proper tooling (the $300-2000 original tools from the contact manufacturer) they are a joy to do. Doing them with inexpensive generic tooling is a nightmare.
Thanks a ton ! Nice
Still helping :)
Great success !!!
These little bastards are a pain in my bottom. I see people doing these 10 a minute. Like... whaaaaa ? I found success with a 2-3mm exposed wire.
Tool name or purchase link please
SN-28B
0.1-1mm²
Yet another tutorial showing the categorically incorrect tool for these contacts. The offset, slanted insulation wings of these contacts _requires_ a tool with a circular insulation crimp, not the m-shaped crimp that is needed for the (symmetrical, squared off) conductor wings.
The result of using an m-shape crimp on the offset wings is the mangled crimp shown in the video.
Never knew this type of connector was invented by DuPint. I guess the patent has expired so they are now dirt cheap and can be found everywhere!
They were not invented by DuPont. They were invented by Berg Electronics, and the product line was/is called BergCon. The company was acquired and resold multiple times, and one of those owners was DuPont. They resold it, and it ultimately ended up as part of Amphenol.
I don’t think the patent matters, whether expired or not. The cheap Chinese DuPont connectors are a cost-reduced design with vastly reduced mating cycles. The original, called Mini-PV, is rated for a thousand mating cycles, and will continue to work ok for longer than that. The cheapest clones loosen to the point of unusability in less than 10 mating cycles. Nobody actually copies the Mini-PV design because it’s much more complex to make (each contact has a separate leaf spring inside made from a different metal than the contact body). Every other design, whether expensive big-name (like TE AMPMODU and Molex SL) or cheap clone, uses contacts made from a single piece of metal.
Annoyingly, the appearance alone doesn’t tell you the quality. Harwin M20 connectors look absolutely identical to cheap Chinese DuPont (so identical that I suspect the Chinese may actually be clones of M20), but M20 works well and doesn’t loosen after 10 cycles. I guess their alloy is very different.
That metal ruler at the beginning of the video? What is it called and where can i buy it?
Dang that's a really good question. I received it for free from Digikey and then I could never find it again. I guess Digikey has to love you. That ruler remained in the lab of my old office and I really want a new one. If you find it for sale post a link!
@@davidmalawey It is called "PCB-RULER-12INCH-PROMO" which has been discontinued, but others make similar ones such as SparkFun
amazing that nearly 100% of the video is out of focus
2:20 28 gauge? I thought the usual for this type of connector was 22 gauge. 28 is very thin.
22AWG is on the high side (though special 18-20AWG versions of these contacts exist). My impression is that over the years, as the electronics world has moved to thinner wires in general, these connectors have tended to be used with thinner and thinner wire. You can get contacts for wire as thin as 32AWG.
When used with individual stranded wires, most commercially bought jumpers use 24-28AWG.
Standard 0.05” pitch ribbon cable is 26 or 28AWG, with the majority in the wild being 28AWG since it’s cheaper. Since that cable is designed for insulation-displacement connectors (and those can only accept very narrow gauge ranges), there’s no market for versions with gauges 24 or thicker, nor 30 or thinner.
I'm sorry, but can hard to watch... the video it self has lots of zoom in and out and not focused.
CANNOT HEAR YOU
wrong cripmer
Thank you! This has helped me tremendously!!!