Just got done replacing my old worn front coils on my 1985 chevy caprice classic. Without your tip on using the 1/2 couplings I would have never been able to fit the springs into the shock towers. thanks alot!
I've been fighting the front springs on my brother's 71 Riviera for ages. The motor is out for an overhaul/restomod. Without the weight of the engine over the front end I couldn't get the coil compressed enough to get everything bolted up and the excess tool sticking out the top of the coil compressor made that a no-go. That tech tip to use the pipe couplers is BRILLIANT!
@CHEECHMUN I've done em on plenty with the engine in place, it sucks but is just barely doable. Take that 600-800lb lump out.... No way! Update: we just recently got his Rivvy sitting on all 4 tires again. We had a major hangup finding some bushings. We're pushing hard to get the old girl running for a local show later this month. Wish us luck!
These g body springs are the hardest to install good video very tough dangerous job the first time you do it i have a 2000 s10 and the 57035 spring compressor super super super hard to work with been tyring to compress the spring for hours just keeps poping off you could make 6 figures a year specializing in installing these springs very dangerous and labor intensive job good tips
I just purchases bigger moog 7226s springs and heavy duty shocks for my truck , replaced upper lower ball joint and inner outter tie rod , idler arm and centre link , excited and kind of nervouse to install these as they are a bigger spring thn whayt i had in there
I did try it the other way, but it wasn't working due to clearance. The arms holding the springs were secure. I don't think it was unsafe, just like a crane, the more you tighten, the more the arms move in. You are correct that normally the arms should be under the spring, not over.
Thanks so much.been going crazy trying to figure out how to use these other set I had which is the side that and will not go inside of the spring pocket just as you stated I have the wrong that I spent 2 hours trying to figure this out till
Hi Rocko, yes, a regular spring compressor will not work for this application. The regular compressors are fine for McPherson Struts, not for regular front springs. Unfortunately, the tool manufacturers often don't tell you which parts their tools will work on. Makes working on cars maddening when you can't figure it out and satisfying once you do.
@@robthefixitguy7185 yes so true I wasted time effort and energy frustration and everything else that goes along with it thank you for a clear demonstration and education on this subject I will keep it with me as I do all my other knowledge
Hi, you can use your hand to position it as you jack it up. Not hard at all. Don't compress the spring too much, just enough to swing the lower control arm up.
It is possible to pry them out after fully extending the lower control arm. I believe I did use a compressor to remove them. It's safer to do it that way.
I have an 86 National and it's sitting low on the left front. First off thank you for the video.. Second question is I see they sell coilovers conversion. I was curious if anybody or yourself has pros and cons
@@robthefixitguy7185 Thanks for the help Rob. I used some small zip ties. Your trick with the spring worked perfectly for installing springs on my 1982 Trans Am.
I forgot to count the number of shims on the upper control arms. are they unique to each vehicle or? Im doing a complete new front end suspension on a 1984 Hurst/Olds. I bought new factory replacement upper control arms with the balljoints already installed. Going to rebuild the stock lowers. Why did you go with after market uppers and stock lowers? thanks in advance. New subscriber thanks
Hi Keith, the shims are installed by the alignment shop. After you replace all the parts you can put back the same number of shims but the alignment shop will need to change them when they align it. The lower control arms don't affect handling that much. Buying tubular ones will not improve the suspension that much and they are expensive. The problem with stock upper control arms is that the geometry is really poor. G bodies come from the factory with positive camber. That means the wheel axis is tilted out, when you turn it tilts more, so the tire is riding on the outside edge. This gives you very poor turning performance. I installed taller upper and lower ball joints to lower the vehicle and change the geometry to give negative camber. The stock alignment settings also need to be changed.
I got a few questions for you all: -where does someone obtain those coil isolator pads? I can only only find ones for the upper rear. -would the rear isolator pads be compatible with the front? -is there only need for an isolator pad on the tops of the coils? What about the bottom? -if the front isolator pads exist; where can I find them for an Oldsmobile or what other GM vehicle would have a compatible isolator pad for this application? -last question: if this type of pad can’t be found. What are some other options: radiator hose, medium stiff rubber, etc?
Hi Mason, I bought my front isolator pads from rockauto.com. $6, they have moog and acdelco. MOOG K160044 ACDELCO 45G18708. The rear are different. The front are flat like pancakes, the rear are shaped. Bottom of coil is held in place by the lower control arm. No pad is necessary. Not sure you could put one if you wanted to. If you wanted to make your own for the front upper, they are rubber, 1/4 inch thick, donut shaped. Not really worth it for the price. BTW you can use some tape around the coil and the pad in a couple spots to hold it temporarily while you release the spring. It will prevent the pad from shifting or falling.
Love them. I just recently finished the front and rear suspension upgrades and the handling is excellent. You would be amazed how great a G body can handle with the correct mods. I set my alignment at negative .5 camber and positive 4 castor. With bilstein shocks and lowering moog springs it is amazing.
I sure appreciate this video. I just ordered one from ebay. I recently been trying to use the powerbuilt internal one I rented and still having issues. I have a 86 s10 blazer with moroso trick springs. I keep trying to compress the spring but,the unit turns and one side of the tool pops out of place.I noticed on the one you have that the ears on the end is one way and on the other they are in the same direction. I thought they was to go toward one another. I am gonna try this out again the way you have it. Also is the ears on the tool a different size? Is one side smaller than the other? I sure do thank you for this cause I am doing this bymyself and need all the help I can get.Ill check back in .
The tool I have has the same size ears top and bottom. I tried it the same way you did and it wasn't working for me, that's why I flipped the bottom ears around and it worked really well.
Cool deal. I just got the tool in yesterday (the same one you have) and gonna give it a shot today. I see the shaft is smaller than the power built one but,it should be fine. I sure do thank you bigtime for getting back to me on here and helping me out.
Hi Borgo, thanks for your comment. The front dropped the height including the taller ball joints about 2 inches. The springs are responsible for 1 to 1.5".
The upper control arm is from Speedway.com. The link is under "show more" below the description. For the upper and lower ball joints I used Proforged 101-10048 Proforged 101-10020 from Rockauto.com. They are taller ball joints which change the geometry to eliminate positive camber. Don't use stock alignment settings.
Hi d dog, I thought the same thing, but the stock control arm is flat sheet metal stamped in a crazy shape for strength. When you use tubular control arms they are super strong so the shape can be very simple. No issue at all with steering, alignment, or anything else. Also keep in mind that stock G bodies came with positive camber which is terrible for performance. When you turn, the wheel is on edge. With negative camber when you turn the tire tread is making full contact with the ground. The control arm should be level with the ground not pointing down. Use taller ball joints to achieve this.
Hi Rob, the hole is there so you can line up the spring for proper height and probably drainage. If you are not winter driving the car, should be fine. Also if they are both 1/4 inch past the hole it should be fine height wise.
Hi Antoine, thanks for the suggestion. Links are in the description. Just keep in mind you need two 8" right side control arms. They are made for circle track racing so the left side is longer. Just flip the right side one over and install on left side. They fit on both sides fine.
Tool is well made, simple design. You don't need to compress it a lot. For the seasoned DIYer not a problem. Never worked on a car before? This is not where you should start.
@@gregs_garage Hi Greg, I did it that way once before. I had to go to a spring shop and have them compressed and strapped. Then I installed them. You may be able to pry them back on, but I wasn't able to. Let me know how it goes.
I think I would rather use 1 short section of standard black iron pipe( 3/4 nom. size should do it) instead of your stacked couplings. Put a suitable flat washer on each end of the pipe.
nice car wow. just spent three days doing my coils, brake pads and shocks, oh idler arm too on my old Electra. It was a bitch but someone told me I possibly saved like maybe 800 bucks. is that true. if a shop did all of it.
Hi Timmy, thanks for the compliments on the car. Planning to do some G body videos on it this spring. Handles like it's on rails now. As for the savings, where I live, a mechanic won't even touch a car for less than 1 to 2 hours labour charge. Coils at least 2 hours, brakes 2 hours, shocks 1 hour, brakes 1 to 2 hours, idler arm 2 hours. You are looking at 8 to 10 hours of labour. Plus mechanics mark up their parts 30% to 50% and often don't get the best prices because they aren't paying, you are. Most importantly, you learned something by doing it yourself. Next time you can do the work in 1/2 or 1/3 of the time. #1 rule don't get hurt. Doesn't matter how long it takes, never risk getting hurt, always work safely with proper jacks and wear proper safety equipment.
Just spent most of all day putting in springs on my chevelle got the spring installed but the coils were too close together and couldn't get the tool out had to take it all apart again I am so pissed. I wish I would of had the space between the coils like yours this fucking sucks.
Hi Roger, sorry to hear that. I used lowering springs which have less coils. Were yours stock height? Another option is going to a spring shop and having them compressed and strapped. Just be really careful when transporting them and installing them. Don't drop them, don't bang them around, they can kill you. Once installed you cut the straps off and remove them.
Just got done replacing my old worn front coils on my 1985 chevy caprice classic. Without your tip on using the 1/2 couplings I would have never been able to fit the springs into the shock towers. thanks alot!
I've been fighting the front springs on my brother's 71 Riviera for ages. The motor is out for an overhaul/restomod. Without the weight of the engine over the front end I couldn't get the coil compressed enough to get everything bolted up and the excess tool sticking out the top of the coil compressor made that a no-go. That tech tip to use the pipe couplers is BRILLIANT!
I just did one side of my 67 Riviera. No way it could be done without that tool!!!!
@CHEECHMUN I've done em on plenty with the engine in place, it sucks but is just barely doable. Take that 600-800lb lump out.... No way!
Update: we just recently got his Rivvy sitting on all 4 tires again. We had a major hangup finding some bushings. We're pushing hard to get the old girl running for a local show later this month. Wish us luck!
your trick with the spacers worked great 1hr a side 1973 Z28 Camaro lined every thing up and popped them in and jacked up *****
i have done this without the spring compressor. great video thanks.
Prybar & hammer along with jack
How did you do it without the spring compressor that 57035 spring compressor sucks keeps poping off so hard to use on my 2000 chevy s10
Great job I'm trying to take one off of a 1983 El Camino thank you for all your help keep up the good work
These g body springs are the hardest to install good video very tough dangerous job the first time you do it i have a 2000 s10 and the 57035 spring compressor super super super hard to work with been tyring to compress the spring for hours just keeps poping off you could make 6 figures a year specializing in installing these springs very dangerous and labor intensive job good tips
Great tips. Used them all installing springs on my S10.
Glad it helped.
Great vid! Should be able to use this method with b bodies.
Excellent video, can't wait to do my g-body 79 Monte Carlo.
Thanks for your comment!
He said, “got number 2 out.” Hee hee!
But seriously, very informative video.
I like the spacer idea. I'd use the weight of the vehicle to compress the spring, but I'm building a bare frame, so I'm down to using a compressor.
I just purchases bigger moog 7226s springs and heavy duty shocks for my truck , replaced upper lower ball joint and inner outter tie rod , idler arm and centre link , excited and kind of nervouse to install these as they are a bigger spring thn whayt i had in there
Thank you you're the videos awesome like savor
Wow I am surprised you didnt get hurt the bottom arms of the compressor should be flipped over not safe that way but you did get it in there.
I did try it the other way, but it wasn't working due to clearance. The arms holding the springs were secure. I don't think it was unsafe, just like a crane, the more you tighten, the more the arms move in. You are correct that normally the arms should be under the spring, not over.
I have an 84 Monte Carlo SS, and I would like to raise the front about 1 1/2 to 2 inches. Any suggestions.
Guy Massaro moog HD springs
Thanks so much.been going crazy trying to figure out how to use these other set I had which is the side that and will not go inside of the spring pocket just as you stated I have the wrong that I spent 2 hours trying to figure this out till
Hi Rocko, yes, a regular spring compressor will not work for this application. The regular compressors are fine for McPherson Struts, not for regular front springs. Unfortunately, the tool manufacturers often don't tell you which parts their tools will work on. Makes working on cars maddening when you can't figure it out and satisfying once you do.
@@robthefixitguy7185 yes so true I wasted time effort and energy frustration and everything else that goes along with it thank you for a clear demonstration and education on this subject I will keep it with me as I do all my other knowledge
Man, you left out the hardest part! Getting the spring to stay in the arm while you jack it up..
Hi, you can use your hand to position it as you jack it up. Not hard at all. Don't compress the spring too much, just enough to swing the lower control arm up.
Did you need to compressor to remove the springs? Or just to reinstall them? Thanks
It is possible to pry them out after fully extending the lower control arm. I believe I did use a compressor to remove them. It's safer to do it that way.
What shocks did you use
they're called external and/or internal coil spring compressors
Pics of the stance with your spring choice? Trying to figure out what I need to get the stance I want and I think this is gonna be it.
im running into same issue with compressor from autozone. 85 cutlass so far a nightmare
Honestly, for less than $20 order the 8 Mile tool on Amazon. Not worth the aggravation or possible injuries to try without it.
I have an 86 National and it's sitting low on the left front. First off thank you for the video..
Second question is I see they sell coilovers conversion. I was curious if anybody or yourself has pros and cons
Nice thing about coil overs is they are adjustable. Bad thing is they are expensive. If you can afford it, a nice way to go.
Thank you Rob. Very informative video. I do have one question. What did you use to hold the insulating washer on to the top of the spring? Thanks.
I wrapped some electrical tape around the spring and the washer to hold it in place.
@@robthefixitguy7185 Thanks for the help Rob. I used some small zip ties. Your trick with the spring worked perfectly for installing springs on my 1982 Trans Am.
@@ocman6075 Awesome. Nice car.
Check the link of them up and control arms one shot in any other it's from circle track I know I got a set of them
OOPs. Sorry. Didnt know my speakers fried but bass worked.
Hi , can you tell me what size pipes that you used for spacing thanks.
1/2 inch galvanized couplings...
I forgot to count the number of shims on the upper control arms. are they unique to each vehicle or? Im doing a complete new front end suspension on a 1984 Hurst/Olds. I bought new factory replacement upper control arms with the balljoints already installed. Going to rebuild the stock lowers. Why did you go with after market uppers and stock lowers? thanks in advance. New subscriber thanks
Hi Keith, the shims are installed by the alignment shop. After you replace all the parts you can put back the same number of shims but the alignment shop will need to change them when they align it.
The lower control arms don't affect handling that much. Buying tubular ones will not improve the suspension that much and they are expensive.
The problem with stock upper control arms is that the geometry is really poor. G bodies come from the factory with positive camber. That means the wheel axis is tilted out, when you turn it tilts more, so the tire is riding on the outside edge. This gives you very poor turning performance.
I installed taller upper and lower ball joints to lower the vehicle and change the geometry to give negative camber. The stock alignment settings also need to be changed.
I got a few questions for you all:
-where does someone obtain those coil isolator pads? I can only only find ones for the upper rear.
-would the rear isolator pads be compatible with the front?
-is there only need for an isolator pad on the tops of the coils? What about the bottom?
-if the front isolator pads exist; where can I find them for an Oldsmobile or what other GM vehicle would have a compatible isolator pad for this application?
-last question: if this type of pad can’t be found. What are some other options: radiator hose, medium stiff rubber, etc?
Hi Mason, I bought my front isolator pads from rockauto.com. $6, they have moog and acdelco. MOOG K160044 ACDELCO 45G18708. The rear are different. The front are flat like pancakes, the rear are shaped. Bottom of coil is held in place by the lower control arm. No pad is necessary. Not sure you could put one if you wanted to.
If you wanted to make your own for the front upper, they are rubber, 1/4 inch thick, donut shaped. Not really worth it for the price. BTW you can use some tape around the coil and the pad in a couple spots to hold it temporarily while you release the spring. It will prevent the pad from shifting or falling.
No the front isolators are bigger.
Will this work for an 83 oldsmobile cutlass supreme 4 door? Thank you.
It should be the same. Have a look and see if the spring goes in the frame like the 2 door versions.
@@robthefixitguy7185 it does. Thank you for the reply!
What size is this coil springs?
How do you like the upper control arms? Just saw them on the website.
Love them. I just recently finished the front and rear suspension upgrades and the handling is excellent. You would be amazed how great a G body can handle with the correct mods. I set my alignment at negative .5 camber and positive 4 castor. With bilstein shocks and lowering moog springs it is amazing.
I sure appreciate this video. I just ordered one from ebay. I recently been trying to use the powerbuilt internal one I rented and still having issues. I have a 86 s10 blazer with moroso trick springs. I keep trying to compress the spring but,the unit turns and one side of the tool pops out of place.I noticed on the one you have that the ears on the end is one way and on the other they are in the same direction. I thought they was to go toward one another. I am gonna try this out again the way you have it. Also is the ears on the tool a different size? Is one side smaller than the other? I sure do thank you for this cause I am doing this bymyself and need all the help I can get.Ill check back in .
Oh I am on my wifes computer so it comes up her name,My name is Kenny
The tool I have has the same size ears top and bottom. I tried it the same way you did and it wasn't working for me, that's why I flipped the bottom ears around and it worked really well.
Cool deal. I just got the tool in yesterday (the same one you have) and gonna give it a shot today. I see the shaft is smaller than the power built one but,it should be fine. I sure do thank you bigtime for getting back to me on here and helping me out.
Is an astro van the same.... Is it a g body.. Cause it looks exactly the same layout
I had a safari, but I am not sure if they are the same. Could be similar.
@@robthefixitguy7185 Thanks Rob ..... Astro/safari is M body ...but i think its pretty much the same ....just as deadly
Great tutorial. How did those springs affect front end height ?
Hi Borgo, thanks for your comment. The front dropped the height including the taller ball joints about 2 inches. The springs are responsible for 1 to 1.5".
What upper control arm & ball joint did you use?
The upper control arm is from Speedway.com. The link is under "show more" below the description. For the upper and lower ball joints I used Proforged 101-10048
Proforged 101-10020 from Rockauto.com. They are taller ball joints which change the geometry to eliminate positive camber. Don't use stock alignment settings.
@@robthefixitguy7185 thanks alot 👍
So the Speedway upper arms are flat where the stock ones curve down.
This doesn't cause any issues?
Hi d dog, I thought the same thing, but the stock control arm is flat sheet metal stamped in a crazy shape for strength. When you use tubular control arms they are super strong so the shape can be very simple. No issue at all with steering, alignment, or anything else. Also keep in mind that stock G bodies came with positive camber which is terrible for performance. When you turn, the wheel is on edge. With negative camber when you turn the tire tread is making full contact with the ground. The control arm should be level with the ground not pointing down. Use taller ball joints to achieve this.
@@robthefixitguy7185 Thank you!
do you greese the ball joints first? or after install of coil
Hi, I usually grease it after install.
I went maybe 1/4 past the hole. Any problems u think?
Hi Rob, the hole is there so you can line up the spring for proper height and probably drainage. If you are not winter driving the car, should be fine. Also if they are both 1/4 inch past the hole it should be fine height wise.
Thanks I figured. I appreciate it
can you provide links to upper control arm and tool to compress spring and thanks
Hi Antoine, thanks for the suggestion. Links are in the description. Just keep in mind you need two 8" right side control arms. They are made for circle track racing so the left side is longer. Just flip the right side one over and install on left side. They fit on both sides fine.
Rent the spring compressor from auto zone ! Ask google for tubular controll arms joe !
I'd be so nervous about that Chinese spring tool breaking. I hate springs.
Tool is well made, simple design. You don't need to compress it a lot. For the seasoned DIYer not a problem. Never worked on a car before? This is not where you should start.
I have a mid 70s grand prix I'm doing springs on. I got the spring out by prying with a pry bar. I wonder if I may be able to pry the new on back in.
@@gregs_garage Hi Greg, I did it that way once before. I had to go to a spring shop and have them compressed and strapped. Then I installed them. You may be able to pry them back on, but I wasn't able to. Let me know how it goes.
will do. I may have to buy a spring compressor like yours. I have a brake tool kit from the same chinese amazon brand and it's ok.
I think I would rather use 1 short section of standard black iron pipe( 3/4 nom. size should do it) instead of your stacked couplings. Put a suitable flat washer on each end of the pipe.
nice car wow. just spent three days doing my coils, brake pads and shocks, oh idler arm too on my old Electra. It was a bitch but someone told me I possibly saved like maybe 800 bucks. is that true. if a shop did all of it.
Hi Timmy, thanks for the compliments on the car. Planning to do some G body videos on it this spring. Handles like it's on rails now. As for the savings, where I live, a mechanic won't even touch a car for less than 1 to 2 hours labour charge. Coils at least 2 hours, brakes 2 hours, shocks 1 hour, brakes 1 to 2 hours, idler arm 2 hours. You are looking at 8 to 10 hours of labour. Plus mechanics mark up their parts 30% to 50% and often don't get the best prices because they aren't paying, you are. Most importantly, you learned something by doing it yourself. Next time you can do the work in 1/2 or 1/3 of the time. #1 rule don't get hurt. Doesn't matter how long it takes, never risk getting hurt, always work safely with proper jacks and wear proper safety equipment.
Man you couldn't clean up the knuckle before you threw it back on? Butt other than that cool vid. Thanks
9
Just spent most of all day putting in springs on my chevelle got the spring installed but the coils were too close together and couldn't get the tool out had to take it all apart again I am so pissed. I wish I would of had the space between the coils like yours this fucking sucks.
Hi Roger, sorry to hear that. I used lowering springs which have less coils. Were yours stock height? Another option is going to a spring shop and having them compressed and strapped. Just be really careful when transporting them and installing them. Don't drop them, don't bang them around, they can kill you. Once installed you cut the straps off and remove them.
Sound horrible. Cant hear him.