The first and best performance upgrade for a 200 six is to replace the Load'O'Matic distributor with 68+ dist with centrifugal and vacuum advance. The Autolite 1100 spark valve venturi advance port can be plugged with a dab of expoxy. This will prevent excessive vacuum advance.
Seeing the 2 springs inside the distributor means that is a stick shift Load'O'Matic. Many Fords with an automatic have the stick shift distributor which results in the initial timing being set wrong. The automatic Load'O'Matic has a shorter advance curve so it has a higher initial timing. It better to describe the spark valve as controlling "throttle bore" and venturi vacuum. If you look inside the carb. port that the vacuum advance fitting is in on the Autolite 1100 you will see the small venturi port. To run a non Load'O'Matic distributor the venturi port can be plugged by drilling and taping it for a 6-32 phillips head screw.
Thanks for this information...I am working on a 1966 6 cylinder and one of my next things to do is a proper tune up and carb rebuild.....I will try the trick with the vacuum pump. Thanks again!!!
@@AlfsMustangGarage It's great to see the growth, but it's almost all on two Shorts that did relatively well in views (for my channel size). It's been great to have the new Subs join the channel. I guess the Algorithm gods were smiling on me last month, although, I wish they'd do it again! 😆
Oh wow ya that's cool. I haven't played around with the shorts but maybe I should. You're way better at being consistent with your postings and it definitely pays off.
Thanks for video’s. Question: All the same when have electronic ignition I assume? Also, when installing pertronix how far does that affect timing when using a timing light to set timing? Thank you
Alf, could you share where you got the tip for testing the vacuum advance, can not find one in the market with a very thin probe to insert in the line for testing the vacuum. Appreciate a reply. Thank you
Thank you, long time viewer and always learning from your detailed guidance/instructional videos !! General question, I have to replace my harmonic balancer/crank pulley... got the center bolt off and before I go rent the puller, do I have enough room with the radiator still on? Or will I need to remove the rad first? any thoughts? Thank Alf!! -- 65 inline 6
Hey Alan! Thanks for being here supporting me! In my experiences you're going to want to pull the radiator. Even if there is enough room with your puller, it's too susceptible for accidents. They are just too easy to get out of the way and make your life easier. I hope that helps.
Forgive me for bothering you but I have a 1979 Ford, the vacuum does not move at the beginning of the acceleration because that is what it was made for but it does so at high speed. I cleaned the carburetor and it seems to me that the vacuum is very hard. I do not understand why it does not activate at the same time. At the beginning of the acceleration, I changed the vacuum and it improved a little. You know what degrees it should have at the time of activating the vacuum. Thank you. I hope you understand.
In that case you may not have a Load'O'Matic distributor that requires a spark valve. 1966 California emission and 1968+ federal emission engines have a distributor with centrifugal and vacuum advance which will greatly outperform a Load'O'Matic equipped Ford six.
My distributor doesn't have springs just point & condesor. I do have same carb (1100). Problem is it stutters till I floor it/ higher RMP's any suggestions? Yazmin Venice Beach CA
My i6 200 67 stang has a modern vac advance distributor with coil pack on distributor cap. Is metal the only option for the vacuum line? Do i want to use the same port on the 1100 carb as what the stock distributor used?
I'd be happy to help. Are you are talking about the line that runs to the choke assembly? This line runs from the exhaust manifold up to the pipe fitting on the choke assembly. Actual exhaust does not come up this tube, it just draws air that is heated by the exhaust manifold. The opposite side of the choke fitting has a double-looking tube. One of these is for the mounting screw on that side, the other goes into the casting of the carburetor and runs down to a hole in the base of the carburetor opening up to the intake manifold. The intake manifold provides a vacuum to draw that hot air from the exhaust manifold through the choke assembly to heat the bimetalic "spring" and, thereby, open the choke when it gets hot enough. Look carefully at the exhaust manifold in that area to find a built in spot to stick the "hot tube".
I have a 1970 Mustang with the 250 6, when I apply the brakes it rough idles when in gear, if shift to neutral with the brakes engaged it clears up. What could cause that
![เปิดใจ พี่ญา คนรุม หลังทัวร์ลง หนักสุดในชีวิต!! l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/2-OJZRtclro/mqdefault.jpg)
The first and best performance upgrade for a 200 six is to replace the Load'O'Matic distributor with 68+ dist with centrifugal and vacuum advance. The Autolite 1100 spark valve venturi advance port can be plugged with a dab of expoxy. This will prevent excessive vacuum advance.
Seeing the 2 springs inside the distributor means that is a stick shift Load'O'Matic. Many Fords with an automatic have the stick shift distributor which results in the initial timing being set wrong. The automatic Load'O'Matic has a shorter advance curve so it has a higher initial timing. It better to describe the spark valve as controlling "throttle bore" and venturi vacuum. If you look inside the carb. port that the vacuum advance fitting is in on the Autolite 1100 you will see the small venturi port. To run a non Load'O'Matic distributor the venturi port can be plugged by drilling and taping it for a 6-32 phillips head screw.
Yep I changed my Load-O-Matic out on my 62 as per your information. !
Thanks for this information...I am working on a 1966 6 cylinder and one of my next things to do is a proper tune up and carb rebuild.....I will try the trick with the vacuum pump. Thanks again!!!
You're very welcome!
Nice video Alex!
Thank you sir!
Another great video!
Thank you sir! Dude, what is happening over at your channel? You're kinda blowing up over there. That's awesome!
@@AlfsMustangGarage It's great to see the growth, but it's almost all on two Shorts that did relatively well in views (for my channel size). It's been great to have the new Subs join the channel. I guess the Algorithm gods were smiling on me last month, although, I wish they'd do it again! 😆
Oh wow ya that's cool. I haven't played around with the shorts but maybe I should. You're way better at being consistent with your postings and it definitely pays off.
Thanks for video’s. Question: All the same when have electronic ignition I assume? Also, when installing pertronix how far does that affect timing when using a timing light to set timing? Thank you
Ya wheather you have mechanical breaker points or pertronix, setting the timing and vacuum advance should be the same.
Alf, could you share where you got the tip for testing the vacuum advance, can not find one in the market with a very thin probe to insert in the line for testing the vacuum. Appreciate a reply. Thank you
Thank you, long time viewer and always learning from your detailed guidance/instructional videos !! General question, I have to replace my harmonic balancer/crank pulley... got the center bolt off and before I go rent the puller, do I have enough room with the radiator still on? Or will I need to remove the rad first? any thoughts? Thank Alf!! -- 65 inline 6
Hey Alan! Thanks for being here supporting me! In my experiences you're going to want to pull the radiator. Even if there is enough room with your puller, it's too susceptible for accidents. They are just too easy to get out of the way and make your life easier. I hope that helps.
Forgive me for bothering you but I have a 1979 Ford, the vacuum does not move at the beginning of the acceleration because that is what it was made for but it does so at high speed. I cleaned the carburetor and it seems to me that the vacuum is very hard. I do not understand why it does not activate at the same time. At the beginning of the acceleration, I changed the vacuum and it improved a little. You know what degrees it should have at the time of activating the vacuum. Thank you. I hope you understand.
What if you don’t have a spark control valve on your 1100 carb? I have a very similar situation but my carb does not have a scv.
In that case you may not have a Load'O'Matic distributor that requires a spark valve. 1966 California emission and 1968+ federal emission engines have a distributor with centrifugal and vacuum advance which will greatly outperform a Load'O'Matic equipped Ford six.
My distributor doesn't have springs just point & condesor. I do have same carb (1100). Problem is it stutters till I floor it/ higher RMP's any suggestions?
Yazmin
Venice Beach CA
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My i6 200 67 stang has a modern vac advance distributor with coil pack on distributor cap. Is metal the only option for the vacuum line? Do i want to use the same port on the 1100 carb as what the stock distributor used?
Need to know where to connect the hot vacuum carburetor line that is towards the back of the carburetor any help would be greatly appreciated
I'd be happy to help. Are you are talking about the line that runs to the choke assembly? This line runs from the exhaust manifold up to the pipe fitting on the choke assembly. Actual exhaust does not come up this tube, it just draws air that is heated by the exhaust manifold. The opposite side of the choke fitting has a double-looking tube. One of these is for the mounting screw on that side, the other goes into the casting of the carburetor and runs down to a hole in the base of the carburetor opening up to the intake manifold. The intake manifold provides a vacuum to draw that hot air from the exhaust manifold through the choke assembly to heat the bimetalic "spring" and, thereby, open the choke when it gets hot enough. Look carefully at the exhaust manifold in that area to find a built in spot to stick the "hot tube".
@@BlisterBang thank you for your response makes sense now
I have a 1970 Mustang with the 250 6, when I apply the brakes it rough idles when in gear, if shift to neutral with the brakes engaged it clears up. What could cause that
Does it have power brakes? If it does, is the vacuum booster leaking?
Hey where's the gloves! 😆
Lol dude those gloves are expensive!
Haha right! Only use them when necessary!
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