Excellent tutorial on coolant flush and oil cooler change out. It is a pain that Ford put that second block drain behind the starter. Your care in cleaning the valley is a good lesson. Thanks for teaching us.
Everything looks great, until you put that Sinister Diesel trash on it. Have fun when that filter nipple breaks free from the dab of glue they use to keep if from backing out of the billet block. It'll do it on the oil high-bypass oil filtration block as well, and you'll wonder why your filter keeps loosening and blowing oil onto the ground. I know this video is a year old, but Sinister is trash, and everyone should avoid them and their junk.
It wasn’t my truck, it’s a customers. He bought the coolant filtration and the thing to NOT say to a customer when he ask you to install something is “hey why did you buy this trash sh**”. I buy Mishimoto when I order one for a truck. If the filter adapter comes out I just reinstall it with red loctite, no big deal. Thanks for watching.
@@ramirosolis3277 Yes, three separate times I was left stranded on the side of the road having dumped half my oil. I finally figured out it was the nipple that was the issue when I took the oil filter off after the third failure and the nipple came with it. I pulled the billet block and that's when I saw the bit of glue that was holding the nipple in place on the nipple and the block. The filter and nipple would vibrate out just enough to break the seal. But when I unscrewed it, the nipple must have had just enough glue on it to make it stay in place, except the third time when it came out attached to the filter! After I discovered the issues I ripped the entire assembly out and went back to stock. Edit: The original poster said to use red Loctite to fix it. No way would I do that. The nipple should be swaged in. It's shoddy manufacturing.
Great video! Have you ever flushed the oil cooler after its removed from engine? Realize if its removed ya might as well replace it but my 285k 6.0 sprung a leak at the oil cooler base and was gonna remove it and replace the seals and re-install. What’s your thoughts?
Put a new Ford oem in it after a good flush. I would never put one back in. Isn’t worth the trouble when you know if you flush good and run coolant filtration with a quality ELC it will last a very long time. Thanks for watching.
Thanks brother. I’m tearing down to the valley on my 06 because a previous owner used the wonderful Dorman gasket/cooler. I’ve been looking at the BPD kit but I just can’t justify the cost. 😢
I came on here to check to see if the oil cooler had 2 small seals or just 1 but I see the small seal wasn't installed on this video its the tiny seal right in the center around one of the studs
Yea I’ve been criticized over this it was forgotten in that shot and discovered it after bolting the oil cooler to the cover. I removed it and reinstalled. Sorry.
I'm thinking about replacing the oil cooler in my 2006 powerstroke F350. Cruising on level ground the delta runs about 8 degrees. This last summer, towing my 5000 lbs trailer up a long grade on a warm day, the coolant temp got up to about 210 and delta to over 20. I've read somewhere that the current version of the Ford oil cooler has some design upgrades and takes the level-cruise delta down to about 2-5 degrees. What is your experience?. Your advise please. Thanks very much in advance!
Great tutorial video! Would you still do the flush prior to the oil cooler replacement if you have oil in the coolant reservoir? Is there a different procedure for that scenario?
Yea, I would still flush but would flush with cascade liquid dish detergent. It cuts the oil pretty good and doesn’t sud. The only scenario that doesn’t work on is if it’s ruptured so bad that your contaminating at the same rate and cleaning and flushing.
Whats the best way to remove oil in coolant? Yes i know my oil cooler is toast. Just want to know whats best and to get all oil out of the coolant system during the backflush. Whats your suggestions? Or advice. TIA
The best way to do a coolant flush is to drain all the system. Buy a big whole house water filter and install into the heater hose before the heater core. Run straight white vinegar in it and put a 100 miles on it. Repeat this 3 times changing the whole house filter every 50 miles. Install new vinegar every 100 miles. Then flush vinegar and get antifreeze back in the motor before flash rust starts. Put 500 miles on it, then change the oil cooler.
Never had issues with mine and I could never sell a customer on charging that much more labor for just driving their truck around for 3 hours. Vc-9 does it’s job and removing the block drains and throughly flushing works and is way more than what the stealership does. Thanks for watching.
Just wandering…. My 04 6.0 is losing major power when towing up a 7%grade mountain with a 7k trailer. Had the ford mechanic with me with the computer hooked up and said my water temp was 198 and when we was close to the top of the mountain going only 29mph wide open throttle it was oil temp was 280. Should that cause it to derate? He didn’t really think that the 04 would derate. He thinks it’s losing power due to thin oil. What is your thoughts? Thanks for the videos!!
@@38vsix shouldn’t lose power because of that but oil temp at 280 is def a big problem because I know it’s cooked a lot of the plastics in your oil filter housing. I’ve seen them melt. Have you checked your drain back valve?
@@AutomedicGarage I actually just took it a little bit ago to the guy that works on powerstrokes. He is supposed to check it out and put an oil cooler in it this week. I wished you was closer to me would have loved for you to work on it. I’m hoping for the best.
I am working on my 2007 Ford F250 6.0 that I just bought. Has a massive oil leak what seem is coming from the oil cooler. Is the oil cooler necessary to replace or will replacing the gaskets just do?
Check the oil sensor on top of the oil cooler cover, common leak but if your replacing the oil cooler cover seal I wouldn’t dare put a used cooler back in after going to the trouble.
@@georgevillagomez3286 yes if your not going the traditional oil cooler route it’s the best. Not everyone wants to drop 2k plus on a oil cooler, plus labor is more for install.
Jesus, TEST DONT GUESS, the people that are considering part swapping àre clueless, I hate fixing theses motors because aftermarket gauges and TH-cam told you so
What did I guess at? Deltas we’re high, how is that guessing? I didn’t know using a scanner with diagnostic software to monitor temps is “aftermarket” it’s literally how you diagnose most anything.
@@AutomedicGarage I wasn't referring to you but the comments mentioning changing parts because they think they need it, you are spot on with proper scan tool data.
Would a plugged oil cooler make the antifreeze puke out the d gas bottle?? I'm having severe overflow of antifreeze out the fill tank?? Thanks in advance
EOT, ECT, (no more than 15 degree delta)FICM main, battery voltage,(to see if your FICM starts getting weak or batteries getting weak, weak batteries kill a FICM)IPR DUTY cycle(if you start seeing high % when the truck isn’t really under a load it will let you know you are starting to get a Hpo leak, you should never see 84% no matter what) and get the probe for EGT so you don’t cook your valves or pistons.
I agree but most kits aren’t set up that way and I also feel to an extent that the slower pass through rate of the coolant allows it to filter better, may be in my head. Thanks for watching.
To each their own, Ford states more than 15 degrees is excessive and seeing as a clean well working OEM cooler stays at a 7-10 degree delta 20 degrees adds up when trying to keep things cool. Thanks for watching.
Hello have you looked into the thermostat 170 is pretty low. I had the same problem but after changing the t-stat my temperature leveled out 7-8 degree split
I’m new to diesels new on your channel. Bought this 06 6,0 beautiful truck almost mint. Anyways just got sludge badly in my degas. Pretty sure oil cooler is bad but my question is should I do the oil cooler and Egr after the flush or would it be head gaskets. It’s like a thick milkshake but the oil is perfect? Please please help me if you can I’m stuck between selling it over this love the channel I’ve been really watching and learning your skills are amazing. Thank you sir. Austin, tx
Do you think a plugged oil cooler would cause a p2290 engine code ? The truck starts immediately and runs great except at wide open throttle , it doesnt seem to me like the symptoms of an hpop going bad im confused on this one
What do you think about doing with well water ,,i have bad iron water some pepole say dont do it at all ,,,i kinda between rock and hard place ,,, thanks for videos,,,,👍
I don’t know how I could seeing as I never took the hpop cover off. This was an oil cooler job, you don’t have to touch the hpop . What hpop orings are you referring to.
im looking to flush mine ive seen a max of 25 delta previous owner said he replaced cooler, pretty sure i got paperwork for it, ive seen people back flush with just a hose n some other with a contraption to hook up water and air to able to jerk the sediment, if i make a contraption like that what psi should i run, just curious if there is any pro to it
Yes the air plus water pressure helps, the system is meant to handle 16 psi so I wouldn’t overdue it but it will hold more than that. I had one of those but loaned it out and went back to my old go to for this video. People often cheap out and don’t use a ford oem cooler cause they want to save a little money when the passages are smaller in their aftermarket or don’t have as many rows and therefore don’t cool efficiently.
@AutomedicGarage good deal! I just did my oil cooler. Heads are off getting surfaced, new valve guides, valves and springs with a slight increase in spring pressure. Also having him o ring the head. New 6.4 Pushrods and valve bridges. Deleting the egr and I'm sure there's something else I'm missing! Oh, new pipes and dummy plugs. I'm sure I'm forgetting something else. Good video though!
Good idea, when I get a little more caught up at the shop I’ll do that. Been slammed and if you noticed my upload irregularity it’s due to how busy we have been. Thanks for watching.
I'm glad you showed/explained the cleaning process you use. I saw the video where you worked on Garys' duelly, was wondering about how you got it so clean and wondered about getting crud in all the openings. Also, I have a bone to pick with Sinister Diesel. Their stuff is so over priced and the stuff I've bought is junk. I used to work in a machine shop that did all the work for the San Diego city bus system. Cleanliness is next to Godliness with all auto mechanicing. One thing that really surprises me is how many knowledgable mechanics on you tube let the coolant/water from the passenger side block drain spray all over the starter. I just put a new one in and I'm going to remove it and stuff a rag in the opening for the first drain and hose water flush. Then when I do a flush with the hose and the engine running, I'm going to go crazy on wrapping it in a plastic bag and taping it on.
None that I deal with leak. Long as they are the style that uses 2 bolts where it bolts to the intake. When you delete the egr your removing the cooler. I wouldn’t weld a cooler because having it gone makes future work or maintenance that much easier.
$800 labor for standard oem oil cooler replacement because I spend a lot of time flushing the system prior to tear down unless it’s a ruptured cooler that is ruptured bad enough that you can’t flush prior to tear down.
Hello, Are you located in West Tennessee? I like the work that you do. I would like to see about getting some things done to my truck like Gary’s white dually.
What Cat coolant are you using? I need to do a flush soon and want to use the best coolant for my 6.0, as I heard the Premium Gold can be problematic with solidifying sediment and messing up the oil coolers. Thanks!
So when I use cat I use the concentrate elc that is a light red pinkish color, in the last year I have swapped to rotella elc, it’s slightly cheaper and is readily available at any tractor supply or co-op. My local oreillys now stocks it for me also since I buy so much. Remember to use distilled water for the final flush and diluting the coolant to 50/50 and go all the way and flush the heater core and remove the block plugs. Hope that helps
@@streetdoc432 maybe untold you it was leaking, the oring seals wear out in the 7.3s. The cooler often never goes bad just leaks coolant if anything cause the seals get hard and expand and contract.
@@AutomedicGarage I'll have to check. I just got the cooler in the mail today. My coolant and oil temps were the same when the truck was off. Also, I got a symptom of the vgt solenoid (2 different ones) behaving erratically when the truck was warmed up. I'll update you
@williamshultz3598 your right if I ran it longer. I took an injector out to replace it since it was junk, and the o rings looked pretty healthy surprisingly.
@AutomedicGarage oil cooler did fix the issue, had to do a couple back flushes to get the rest of the junk out of the system but now my deltas are in spec. Less than 10 degrees
Does it throw a code when you delete the egr valve from the intake and use the blocker plate. I have an sct with the egr selected off I just never put the plate on.
I found your video looking for advice on just simply checking the coolant level. Still not 100% sure if it's EO first thing in the AM or remove cap and crack it up. I monitor my 03 6.0 motor temps thru torque pro and have the delta gauge. Not hauling much I've seen 20° difference cruising at 75-80 mph with outdoor temps 85°-90°+ eot 200 +/- and ect 185°+/- 5°. I can't find any temp recordings to look for under any circumstances. I've heard 190° coolant level is ideal and up to 15° delta so 200 oil temp. Any info on outside temps to motor temps?
I’ve never gotten that scientific with it but the 15 degrees is key you will run hotter coolant temps and oil temps when it’s hotter obviously but maintaining under the 15 degrees is key, as far as coolant level I maintain a lower level than the indicator on the degas bottle. Having more expansion room is key on the 6.0. Thanks for watching. Hope that helped.
@@AutomedicGarage my deltas were 20 degree difference. And I had coolant in oil. Replaced oil cooler and did egr delete, now my Temps are only a few degrees different. I'm happy! My problem now is my oil smelled sweet and was watery when I drained it. Is it possible for coolant to get into oil if my oil cooler ruptured? Or are my head gaskets going now
@@joeycarpeal sounds like you need to check your front cover. Head gaskets won’t get coolant in your oil, head gaskets burn the coolant and also create steam furthering a head gasket problem. Yes oil cooler can get coolant in your oil.
@@AutomedicGarage what front cover are you referring to??? I just changed oil yesterday. Going to test drive later today and see what I come up with. Fingers crossed its okay
@@benjaminjones4279 no the customer is new to 6.0s. He had mismatched batteries which I told him I didn’t like and was explaining that weak batteries will ruin a FICM and that monitoring his battery voltage was always good so that when you start seeing a drop in voltage to ditch those batteries for some new ones
@@AutomedicGarage I've watched that important detail and you didn't put it on. There are 2 small o'ring. One goes in the center of the oil cooler base and the other one is inside of an hexagonal head really close to the other o'ring that I mentioned, between the two big ones. Check the video one more time.
@@oscarcrespo9365 yes in the video it was missing, I meant I caught it after torquing and re-torqued off camera however, that oring doesn’t seal anything, it’s where the stud goes through the cover. Often times it’s never in 6.0s I take apart. But you caught it in the video. Good job.
Pro tip: after you flush, remove only the block plug, put water hose in degas bottle and wait for fill. Turn your heater ON and start the engine. This will remove a lot of contamination
Yes, that’s what I did. I flush throughly with hose water with both plugs out. Then I fill one last time with distilled and drain to eliminate as much tap water as I can. Thanks for watching.
Yes I did remove block plugs and flush through degas with hose water then I put plugs back in, fill with distilled run it then drain again to remove as much of the tap water as possible so it has a true 50/50 distilled anti freeze mix. When I fill after repairs. Thanks for watching.
Doing a quality flush and swapping the cooler takes the better part of a 8 hr day for me. If it’s your first time plan on 2 days and take your time and do it right.
I did prefill the valley. @ 29:10 I was pre filling with motorcraft 10w-30. If you don’t prefill it just takes forever to prime the hpop and reservoir.
@@AutomedicGarage I was insinuating that I made that mistake. Now it won’t start I was wondering on what to do but I guess it I’ll keep trying. Thanks for the reply!
@@RandomReviews13 just keep cranking it’s a lot of air and void to fill and takes a lot of cranking. Do it in 15-20 sec intervals so you don’t burn your starter up
Excellent tutorial on coolant flush and oil cooler change out. It is a pain that Ford put that second block drain behind the starter. Your care in cleaning the valley is a good lesson. Thanks for teaching us.
Thanks for watching.
Everything looks great, until you put that Sinister Diesel trash on it. Have fun when that filter nipple breaks free from the dab of glue they use to keep if from backing out of the billet block. It'll do it on the oil high-bypass oil filtration block as well, and you'll wonder why your filter keeps loosening and blowing oil onto the ground. I know this video is a year old, but Sinister is trash, and everyone should avoid them and their junk.
It wasn’t my truck, it’s a customers. He bought the coolant filtration and the thing to NOT say to a customer when he ask you to install something is “hey why did you buy this trash sh**”. I buy Mishimoto when I order one for a truck. If the filter adapter comes out I just reinstall it with red loctite, no big deal. Thanks for watching.
@@AutomedicGaragewhats ur business location phone number and price for a job like this
My my gosh really I have a sinister diesel oil cooler
@@ramirosolis3277 Yes, three separate times I was left stranded on the side of the road having dumped half my oil. I finally figured out it was the nipple that was the issue when I took the oil filter off after the third failure and the nipple came with it. I pulled the billet block and that's when I saw the bit of glue that was holding the nipple in place on the nipple and the block.
The filter and nipple would vibrate out just enough to break the seal. But when I unscrewed it, the nipple must have had just enough glue on it to make it stay in place, except the third time when it came out attached to the filter!
After I discovered the issues I ripped the entire assembly out and went back to stock.
Edit: The original poster said to use red Loctite to fix it. No way would I do that. The nipple should be swaged in. It's shoddy manufacturing.
Just bought one with this oil cooler issue what do yall recommend as far as who to use
Great video! Have you ever flushed the oil cooler after its removed from engine? Realize if its removed ya might as well replace it but my 285k 6.0 sprung a leak at the oil cooler base and was gonna remove it and replace the seals and re-install. What’s your thoughts?
Put a new Ford oem in it after a good flush. I would never put one back in. Isn’t worth the trouble when you know if you flush good and run coolant filtration with a quality ELC it will last a very long time. Thanks for watching.
Amazing video! Also I love your Trump wrist band ❤❤❤🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Thanks brother. I’m tearing down to the valley on my 06 because a previous owner used the wonderful Dorman gasket/cooler. I’ve been looking at the BPD kit but I just can’t justify the cost. 😢
Bpd is worth every penny for a permanent fix with no problems to ever occur again
That passenger side plug is a PIA. I replaced the plug with a Fumoto valve and a new o-ring. So much simpler.
You forgot the small oring in the oil cooler housing, i bet you had 2 small 1/2 blk orings left over.
@@damonrice8469 nope cause I put it in. Realized it after that shot pulled it back out of the oil cooler top and reassembled.
Take it back apart you forgot the small o-ring between the cooler and the housing.
No, it go put in. I forgot it while making the video but after that take saw it sitting on the table. Thanks though.
Getting ready to do this myself. Going to the bullet proof diesel. Great video great info
Thanks for commenting and watching. Make sure you check out our other 6.0 content out.
Someone was definitely having fun ripping that two stroke in the background!!! 🤣🤣🤣
That would be my boy, was probably his yz80 at the time. He’s on a 250f now.
You forgot the one o-ring in the center under the oil cooler 😅
@@Saltygarage read the other comments
I came on here to check to see if the oil cooler had 2 small seals or just 1 but I see the small seal wasn't installed on this video its the tiny seal right in the center around one of the studs
Yea I’ve been criticized over this it was forgotten in that shot and discovered it after bolting the oil cooler to the cover. I removed it and reinstalled. Sorry.
I'm thinking about replacing the oil cooler in my 2006 powerstroke F350. Cruising on level ground the delta runs about 8 degrees. This last summer, towing my 5000 lbs trailer up a long grade on a warm day, the coolant temp got up to about 210 and delta to over 20. I've read somewhere that the current version of the Ford oil cooler has some design upgrades and takes the level-cruise delta down to about 2-5 degrees. What is your experience?. Your advise please. Thanks very much in advance!
Are you missing a O-ring at 23:12 in the cover?
Yea, it got put in. I caught it after I bolted it in. Should have taken another cut
Great tutorial video! Would you still do the flush prior to the oil cooler replacement if you have oil in the coolant reservoir? Is there a different procedure for that scenario?
Yea, I would still flush but would flush with cascade liquid dish detergent. It cuts the oil pretty good and doesn’t sud. The only scenario that doesn’t work on is if it’s ruptured so bad that your contaminating at the same rate and cleaning and flushing.
@@AutomedicGarage Awesome, thanks for the reply!
Do you have to do all this every time it is due for a coolant change?
You don’t wanna grab the oil cooler out by the filter stand. They will snap when they get old
K
My oil temp is reading 250 😳
Whats the best way to remove oil in coolant? Yes i know my oil cooler is toast. Just want to know whats best and to get all oil out of the coolant system during the backflush. Whats your suggestions? Or advice. TIA
Simple green and water drive 15 minutes. Drain and repeat 5 times
The best way to do a coolant flush is to drain all the system. Buy a big whole house water filter and install into the heater hose before the heater core. Run straight white vinegar in it and put a 100 miles on it. Repeat this 3 times changing the whole house filter every 50 miles. Install new vinegar every 100 miles. Then flush vinegar and get antifreeze back in the motor before flash rust starts. Put 500 miles on it, then change the oil cooler.
Never had issues with mine and I could never sell a customer on charging that much more labor for just driving their truck around for 3 hours. Vc-9 does it’s job and removing the block drains and throughly flushing works and is way more than what the stealership does. Thanks for watching.
Just wandering…. My 04 6.0 is losing major power when towing up a 7%grade mountain with a 7k trailer. Had the ford mechanic with me with the computer hooked up and said my water temp was 198 and when we was close to the top of the mountain going only 29mph wide open throttle it was oil temp was 280. Should that cause it to derate? He didn’t really think that the 04 would derate. He thinks it’s losing power due to thin oil. What is your thoughts?
Thanks for the videos!!
@@38vsix shouldn’t lose power because of that but oil temp at 280 is def a big problem because I know it’s cooked a lot of the plastics in your oil filter housing. I’ve seen them melt. Have you checked your drain back valve?
@@AutomedicGarage I actually just took it a little bit ago to the guy that works on powerstrokes. He is supposed to check it out and put an oil cooler in it this week. I wished you was closer to me would have loved for you to work on it. I’m hoping for the best.
I am working on my 2007 Ford F250 6.0 that I just bought. Has a massive oil leak what seem is coming from the oil cooler. Is the oil cooler necessary to replace or will replacing the gaskets just do?
Check the oil sensor on top of the oil cooler cover, common leak but if your replacing the oil cooler cover seal I wouldn’t dare put a used cooler back in after going to the trouble.
Best Oil cooler for 6.0 & coolant filter?
Usa made oem or navistar if you can find one. I like Mishimoto as far as a budget coolant filtration goes
@@AutomedicGarage what about BulletProof Oil Filtration - Heavy-Duty Air/Oil Cooling conversion?
@@georgevillagomez3286 yes if your not going the traditional oil cooler route it’s the best. Not everyone wants to drop 2k plus on a oil cooler, plus labor is more for install.
Jesus, TEST DONT GUESS, the people that are considering part swapping àre clueless, I hate fixing theses motors because aftermarket gauges and TH-cam told you so
What did I guess at? Deltas we’re high, how is that guessing? I didn’t know using a scanner with diagnostic software to monitor temps is “aftermarket” it’s literally how you diagnose most anything.
@@AutomedicGarage I wasn't referring to you but the comments mentioning changing parts because they think they need it, you are spot on with proper scan tool data.
before you installed the new cooler in the housing you forgot 1 small gasket in the center of the housing the size of ur pinky
Yes, it wasn’t filmed but after I bolted it down I realized I forgot it and took the cooler back out and installed it. Good eye.
what if turbo hose has oil in it? bad turbo?
@@gtzrg which hose are you referring to? Oil supply, oil return or charge air pipe?
@@AutomedicGarage the air pipes
@@gtzrg no, it’s gonna have some in there it’s from the CCV
@@AutomedicGarage thanks!!!👍
Awesome i need that done on my 6.0 excuse me where are you located I'm sorry??
Arlington Tn
That dosent appear to be the original oil cooler that you removed
Would a plugged oil cooler make the antifreeze puke out the d gas bottle?? I'm having severe overflow of antifreeze out the fill tank?? Thanks in advance
No. You need head gaskets more than likely.
@@AutomedicGarage thanks for the response
What is your location I would like you to work in light of 350 6.0 2007 let me know thank you for your Video
West Tn
I am pretty new to the diesel world. i have an 03 F250 6.0. i also have a Edge insight CTS3. what is the PIDs that i should have on it to watch?
EOT, ECT, (no more than 15 degree delta)FICM main, battery voltage,(to see if your FICM starts getting weak or batteries getting weak, weak batteries kill a FICM)IPR DUTY cycle(if you start seeing high % when the truck isn’t really under a load it will let you know you are starting to get a Hpo leak, you should never see 84% no matter what) and get the probe for EGT so you don’t cook your valves or pistons.
You only have to refill the valley right? You don't have to do a complete oil change daring this process do you?
Yes I would change the oil. I always do anytime I open up the motor like this due to possible contamination or debris.
Was all good until you left out that small o ring the threaded bolt goes threw
I caught it off camera and put it in. If you read the comments all the other arm chair mechanics have commented you would have read that I did.
Cooler filters work much better if you run 100% of water from heater thru filter instead of just sipping off of it.
I agree but most kits aren’t set up that way and I also feel to an extent that the slower pass through rate of the coolant allows it to filter better, may be in my head. Thanks for watching.
Did you realize you forgot the small Oring around the stud
Yep, look at the other comments, I realized before I put the cooler back in. Saw it on the table I just didn’t redo the shot.
17:16 was funny as hell😂 I know my man ruined a couple of shop vacs in his day
I’m pretty hard on shop vacs but I like doing a clean job, just another yearly shop expense.
I wouldn't worry about the 20 degrees difference
To each their own, Ford states more than 15 degrees is excessive and seeing as a clean well working OEM cooler stays at a 7-10 degree delta 20 degrees adds up when trying to keep things cool. Thanks for watching.
Hello have you looked into the thermostat 170 is pretty low. I had the same problem but after changing the t-stat my temperature leveled out 7-8 degree split
The truck wasn’t that warm and it was 12 degrees that day
I’m new to diesels new on your channel. Bought this 06 6,0 beautiful truck almost mint. Anyways just got sludge badly in my degas. Pretty sure oil cooler is bad but my question is should I do the oil cooler and Egr after the flush or would it be head gaskets. It’s like a thick milkshake but the oil is perfect? Please please help me if you can I’m stuck between selling it over this love the channel I’ve been really watching and learning your skills are amazing. Thank you sir. Austin, tx
Go to my website get my contact info and get with me. I’ll help you best I can. Will be easier than messaging on here. www.automedicgarage.com
What end up happening with your truck?.
Hiw do you charge for this kind of job.
$600 labor for flushing and oil cooler replacement.
Do you think a plugged oil cooler would cause a p2290 engine code ? The truck starts immediately and runs great except at wide open throttle , it doesnt seem to me like the symptoms of an hpop going bad im confused on this one
Possible but not likely. The oil cooler is part of the low pressure system, but feeds the high pressure pump shortly after.
@harryharvey1057 it was the hpop but at 250k with stock everything even head gaskets and egr I'm ok with doing the hpop its been a damn good truck
great tutorial. enjoyed watching it. thanks for the info
The original cooler would not have any dimples on it
What are you referring to as dimples?
What do you think about doing with well water ,,i have bad iron water some pepole say dont do it at all ,,,i kinda between rock and hard place ,,, thanks for videos,,,,👍
I would say flush it, but on your final flush, flush very very throughly with plenty of distilled water
@@AutomedicGarage thanks for your reply ,your videos realy help THANKS lot 👍👍
And why didn't you replace hpop o rings
I don’t know how I could seeing as I never took the hpop cover off. This was an oil cooler job, you don’t have to touch the hpop . What hpop orings are you referring to.
Done many and got one to do next week. Great video
im looking to flush mine ive seen a max of 25 delta previous owner said he replaced cooler, pretty sure i got paperwork for it, ive seen people back flush with just a hose n some other with a contraption to hook up water and air to able to jerk the sediment, if i make a contraption like that what psi should i run, just curious if there is any pro to it
Yes the air plus water pressure helps, the system is meant to handle 16 psi so I wouldn’t overdue it but it will hold more than that. I had one of those but loaned it out and went back to my old go to for this video. People often cheap out and don’t use a ford oem cooler cause they want to save a little money when the passages are smaller in their aftermarket or don’t have as many rows and therefore don’t cool efficiently.
@@AutomedicGaragedaymm...a dealership just quoted me $824.86🇨🇦 for an OEM filter
Did you not forget the smaller o-ring in the middle for the stud at 23:14 ??
I overlooked it due to videoing but I did catch it and install it. Your not the first to catch it.
I see that too
Pretty sure you forgot the o ring under the cooler
Yep, I saw it on the table after that take. It went in just didn’t retake the shot.
@AutomedicGarage good deal! I just did my oil cooler. Heads are off getting surfaced, new valve guides, valves and springs with a slight increase in spring pressure. Also having him o ring the head. New 6.4 Pushrods and valve bridges. Deleting the egr and I'm sure there's something else I'm missing! Oh, new pipes and dummy plugs. I'm sure I'm forgetting something else. Good video though!
@@AutomedicGarage regulated fuel return system to eliminate the dead head
@@jeffsaxton2847 yep. We’re gonna go with kill devil heads on the 6.0 street truck build coming up
@AutomedicGarage yeah they'd like 16-20 weeks out for heads I think
You should make video on the benefits of CAT coolant over Ford Gold.
Good idea, when I get a little more caught up at the shop I’ll do that. Been slammed and if you noticed my upload irregularity it’s due to how busy we have been. Thanks for watching.
I'm glad you showed/explained the cleaning process you use. I saw the video where you worked on Garys' duelly, was wondering about how you got it so clean and wondered about getting crud in all the openings. Also, I have a bone to pick with Sinister Diesel. Their stuff is so over priced and the stuff I've bought is junk. I used to work in a machine shop that did all the work for the San Diego city bus system. Cleanliness is next to Godliness with all auto mechanicing. One thing that really surprises me is how many knowledgable mechanics on you tube let the coolant/water from the passenger side block drain spray all over the starter. I just put a new one in and I'm going to remove it and stuff a rag in the opening for the first drain and hose water flush. Then when I do a flush with the hose and the engine running, I'm going to go crazy on wrapping it in a plastic bag and taping it on.
Yea I like to clean stuff up and do it right. Thanks for commenting and watching.
11:21
Does that EGR delete they use leak? I am new to the 6.0 but I've read all leak except for welded cooler
None that I deal with leak. Long as they are the style that uses 2 bolts where it bolts to the intake. When you delete the egr your removing the cooler. I wouldn’t weld a cooler because having it gone makes future work or maintenance that much easier.
Do you recommend any particular brand I can go purchase so I can put on
@@christopherellison6447 whatever you can find they are hard to find now.
Great video.
How much would that job be worth?
$800 labor for standard oem oil cooler replacement because I spend a lot of time flushing the system prior to tear down unless it’s a ruptured cooler that is ruptured bad enough that you can’t flush prior to tear down.
Hello, Are you located in West Tennessee? I like the work that you do. I would like to see about getting some things done to my truck like Gary’s white dually.
Yea we’re outside of Memphis, and building a legit big shop right now
Cool, I’m not too far away from you. Just south of Memphis, about 90 miles.
@@pj9731 my contact info is on my website automedicgarage.com
How long did this job take?
Not including the flushing procedure about 3 hrs for me. But I do a lot of them. 3 this week actually.
What Cat coolant are you using? I need to do a flush soon and want to use the best coolant for my 6.0, as I heard the Premium Gold can be problematic with solidifying sediment and messing up the oil coolers. Thanks!
So when I use cat I use the concentrate elc that is a light red pinkish color, in the last year I have swapped to rotella elc, it’s slightly cheaper and is readily available at any tractor supply or co-op. My local oreillys now stocks it for me also since I buy so much. Remember to use distilled water for the final flush and diluting the coolant to 50/50 and go all the way and flush the heater core and remove the block plugs. Hope that helps
ELC, or ELC Nitrite free?
@@jesset4987 all ELC that I use is nitrite and silicate free both of which will ruin your oil cooler.
Great video BTW, I just did this in my driveway using this as reference. Thanks!
@@jesset4987 glad it helped
how much for a job like that?
I charge $600 labor for regular oem oil cooler replacement which includes thoroughly flushing the system. $800 for BPD remote cooler install.
Awesome. I need that done on my 7.3.
Your oil cooler leaking
@@AutomedicGarage you told me it was, the last time you worked on it.
@@streetdoc432 maybe untold you it was leaking, the oring seals wear out in the 7.3s. The cooler often never goes bad just leaks coolant if anything cause the seals get hard and expand and contract.
Where are you located
Arlington, Tn
My oil was 70 degrees higher than my coolant temp. Thank God nothing on my motor was damaged, but I probably drove it like that for 3+ thousand miles
Did a new cooler clear up the problem? Oil temp sensor can also go bad.
@@AutomedicGarage I'll have to check. I just got the cooler in the mail today. My coolant and oil temps were the same when the truck was off. Also, I got a symptom of the vgt solenoid (2 different ones) behaving erratically when the truck was warmed up.
I'll update you
High oil temperatures cook the O rings in the system
@williamshultz3598 your right if I ran it longer. I took an injector out to replace it since it was junk, and the o rings looked pretty healthy surprisingly.
@AutomedicGarage oil cooler did fix the issue, had to do a couple back flushes to get the rest of the junk out of the system but now my deltas are in spec. Less than 10 degrees
Does it throw a code when you delete the egr valve from the intake and use the blocker plate. I have an sct with the egr selected off I just never put the plate on.
05-07 usually does 03-04 does not
@@AutomedicGarage thanks I’ll have to give it a try
My 03 6.0 throws a soft code for the EGR delete. My SCT no longer has the turn off option after I updated it.
@@roblit79 03-04 usually don’t throw a CEL but will give a soft code for “EGR flow below threshold” 05 up will set a CEL
Where are you from?
West Tn
I found your video looking for advice on just simply checking the coolant level. Still not 100% sure if it's EO first thing in the AM or remove cap and crack it up. I monitor my 03 6.0 motor temps thru torque pro and have the delta gauge. Not hauling much I've seen 20° difference cruising at 75-80 mph with outdoor temps 85°-90°+ eot 200 +/- and ect 185°+/- 5°. I can't find any temp recordings to look for under any circumstances. I've heard 190° coolant level is ideal and up to 15° delta so 200 oil temp. Any info on outside temps to motor temps?
I’ve never gotten that scientific with it but the 15 degrees is key you will run hotter coolant temps and oil temps when it’s hotter obviously but maintaining under the 15 degrees is key, as far as coolant level I maintain a lower level than the indicator on the degas bottle. Having more expansion room is key on the 6.0. Thanks for watching. Hope that helped.
@@AutomedicGarage my deltas were 20 degree difference. And I had coolant in oil. Replaced oil cooler and did egr delete, now my Temps are only a few degrees different. I'm happy! My problem now is my oil smelled sweet and was watery when I drained it. Is it possible for coolant to get into oil if my oil cooler ruptured? Or are my head gaskets going now
@@joeycarpeal sounds like you need to check your front cover. Head gaskets won’t get coolant in your oil, head gaskets burn the coolant and also create steam furthering a head gasket problem. Yes oil cooler can get coolant in your oil.
@@AutomedicGarage what front cover are you referring to??? I just changed oil yesterday. Going to test drive later today and see what I come up with. Fingers crossed its okay
@@joeycarpeal you engine front cover. The one that can leak coolant due to waterpump cavitation
My 06 ford f350 shuts down using cat coolant all i cam use is ford gold...
No way coolant is shutting your truck down.
@@AutomedicGarage I wonder what would've been causing that? bc when I changed to ford gold it stopped shutting down.
@@leraybojangles711 ford gold coolant is garbage. Hope you like changing oil coolers.
@@AutomedicGarage That's exactly what it did stop up the oil cooler...but the truck wouldn't run on anything else 🤷♂️
@@leraybojangles711 still won’t keep it from running
Was FICM voltage really only 14v? That can’t be right.
Yea, FICM main power should be same as battery voltage
@@AutomedicGarage I thought the SCT was displaying the FICM ouput. I thought there’s no way it’s that low or there’d be bigger issues.
@@benjaminjones4279 no the customer is new to 6.0s. He had mismatched batteries which I told him I didn’t like and was explaining that weak batteries will ruin a FICM and that monitoring his battery voltage was always good so that when you start seeing a drop in voltage to ditch those batteries for some new ones
do you have to remove the turbo to replace the oil cooler?
On 03-early 04 yes because there is a crossover on the back of the intake. I usually do because you can clean the valley better.
@@AutomedicGarage So for an 05 you dont have to remove the turbo?
@@ethanmills926 it can be done.
You forgot to install one small o'ring on the base of oil cooler.
No. It’s there.
@@AutomedicGarage I've watched that important detail and you didn't put it on. There are 2 small o'ring. One goes in the center of the oil cooler base and the other one is inside of an hexagonal head really close to the other o'ring that I mentioned, between the two big ones. Check the video one more time.
@@AutomedicGarage minute 23:13
@@oscarcrespo9365 yes in the video it was missing, I meant I caught it after torquing and re-torqued off camera however, that oring doesn’t seal anything, it’s where the stud goes through the cover. Often times it’s never in 6.0s I take apart. But you caught it in the video. Good job.
What’s the purpose of that o’ring
Pro tip: after you flush, remove only the block plug, put water hose in degas bottle and wait for fill. Turn your heater ON and start the engine. This will remove a lot of contamination
Yes, that’s what I did. I flush throughly with hose water with both plugs out. Then I fill one last time with distilled and drain to eliminate as much tap water as I can. Thanks for watching.
Yes I did remove block plugs and flush through degas with hose water then I put plugs back in, fill with distilled run it then drain again to remove as much of the tap water as possible so it has a true 50/50 distilled anti freeze mix. When I fill after repairs. Thanks for watching.
How much time should i set aside to do this job (oil cooler swap) i will do the backflush first prevous day
Doing a quality flush and swapping the cooler takes the better part of a 8 hr day for me. If it’s your first time plan on 2 days and take your time and do it right.
I was told to do a coolant flush before replacing the oil cooler by a bunch of mechanics I know. What EOT is considered to dangerous to drive with?
I flushed this one before I did it. Any delta greater than 15 is considered unacceptable by Ford.
How do you crank if you didn’t prefill the valley after installing everything?
I did prefill the valley. @ 29:10 I was pre filling with motorcraft 10w-30. If you don’t prefill it just takes forever to prime the hpop and reservoir.
@@AutomedicGarage I was insinuating that I made that mistake. Now it won’t start I was wondering on what to do but I guess it I’ll keep trying. Thanks for the reply!
@@RandomReviews13 just keep cranking it’s a lot of air and void to fill and takes a lot of cranking. Do it in 15-20 sec intervals so you don’t burn your starter up