Thank you very much! At 160K miles, the valve cover gasket finally gave out and I barely made it home with oil soaked plugs! She’s running great again.
I have a 2013 1.6 Escape and I have to tell you that your dedication to putting together such a detailed video is invaluable to all weekend home mechanics out there and i am very grateful!!! Now I have a guide to follow as i ran into a lot of the same issues you ran into ie: those darn variable timing solenoids spraying oil everywhere! I'm in my late 50's now and just chuckle to think back when we were younger and didn't have the benefit of watching you tube videos as it is such a great resource. Again, great tool but nothing without dedication from people such as yourself that really put great videos together. Keep up the great work!👍
Thanks for your kind critique of this video! Quite honestly, when I first approached this job, I was scratching my head. Where do I begin? I figured take everything on top of the valve cover off! After I dived in, it was like "now what's in the way???!!!". 😩
Update: 10 Sept 2022: on 2014 Ford Escape, 1.6 ltr . Just completed the valve cover replacement: Your instructions were on the money!!!. The only problem I had was at the fuel rail. Two of the injectors came out with the rail. Easy job to put back. All parts recommended by you were correct. The job took me 4 hours to do. Thank god for dielectric grease.
I just did this job today on my 2015 Ford Escaoe with 141k miles that had an active oil leak at the rear left corner of the valve gasket. I had a boroscope camera and it was leaking pretty good! I appreciate all the information and detail you put into this video. Ive torn my car apart a few times and do my own maintenance. This jobs took me about 3 hours, from hood open to hood closed with a few breaks. For anyone that is doing this, you might want to clean your ignition coil boots and fill the ends with dielectric grease (mine were filled with oil). A tip for when reinstalling your windshield wipers, turn the car on to accessory mode and then turn the wipers on once and then turn them off, this will lock them into the off position. While the car is still on, install your wipers. Can't thank you enough for giving the weekend warriers help. I love wrenching as much as then next guy but gives me confidence when I know exactly what to do!
I have an estimate that is about $1,200 to replace my valve cover and spark plugs on '13 Fusion. Definitely going to take on the task of fixing it myself. Appreciate all the info!
Thank you so much for this video. I was able to successfully do this job because of your help. The other comments of fails seemed to concern the injectors, so I was very careful in removing the fuel rail without disturbing the injectors, and had replacement o-rings ready to go on. Had to order an entire kit for each injector to get the top o-rings, which I replaced as you instructed. Thankfully I did not have to use the other parts of the kit, because the injectors were undisturbed while removing the fuel rail. For others thinking of doing this -- take notes, take your time, be prepared. Hope you have success. Thanks again!!
Gone are the days of the 30 minute valve cover job. I am going to do this on my wife’s 2013 fusion. It was done twice by the dealer under warranty but this time I will do it
Thank you so much for this video bro! I just finished doing the valve cover on 2015 Ford Escape at 170k miles! Your step by step video was perfect 👍🏽 well done!
Thanks so much for the video!! Just finished my valve cover gasket and replacing my injectors at the same time. Took me 4 hours and saved me a ton of money. I’d like to add that it is supposed to be a 3-stage torque on the valve cover bolts. 5 nm 9 nm 10 nm There’s also a specific sequence to torque the bolts that I found shared in a forum. Thanks again!
I've been trying to find the same procedure for a volvo v40 t4 with the same engine. This is exactly what i needed. Spot on! really appreciate this. My oil leak is exactly the way you described it
$850!! I wish my dealership charged me that little. My dealer tried charging me $1565 in labor $100 for parts. Then another $225 in labor to change the spark plugs (oh another $120 for parts). All in all it was gonna be $2600 for valve cover gasket, spark plugs and ignition coils. I told them ill do it myself. This video is awesome help! Glad I didnt spend the money with them.
It's a pattern I'm noticing with auto repair quotes as more people choose to hold onto their cars instead of trading in for a new one. There's the labor problem as well. No one wants to be a mechanic and the repair shops are overwhelmed with service demand.
They're only 10mm fastener bolts that require 10 or less lbs of torque which isn't a lot. I'm going to guess that the fuel rail O rings are not seated properly and you're leaking fuel.
What are the metal cylinders you have to take out on the left side I still have an oil leak in the top left corner and I just replaced the gasket. I’m not sure if that need replacing. 4:26
Those are the intake and exhaust camshaft solenoids. They're exposed to oil and harden o ring seals could be a source of oil leakage. Good practice to replace them.
Excellent video. Very well produced. As others have said informative and to the point. I really like the tips on the electrical connections as they can be a bear to figure out. My valve cover isn’t leaking yet but when the time comes this video will be essential to my success. Thanks. Roger
Also did you use dielectric(spelled wrong probably)grease throughout the video? I noticed at times you said silicone grease. Just making sure I apply right grease throughout. Thanks.
First, thanks so much. Spent almost all day doing this on my Ford S-Max. Never done anything like this before. All generally went well, fuel rail was a b*tch to get off but o rings stayed on injectors so all good. I got an oem Ford gasket which, at the vital moment, I discovered had a defect. So good tip would be get two! Had to put in on regardless. I also did plugs, when I fired it up, started quickly but misfiring. I removed all the coils for visual check, having put them back in now it won't start at all. Thrown in the towel for today but any advice welcome. I have an obd dongle. Once again thanks, I owe you a beer!
I stripped back to the fuel rail and noticed that 1 of the injectors easily rotates if I twist it the others are all solid. Starts now but back to misfire. If that injector came loose with the fuel rail do I need to replace o rings and teflon seal? Or might the misfire clear in time? Where can I send your beer money, would never have had confidence to get this far without your help.
Got some help on this. Turned out too much grease in coils and residual gas in plug wells. Thought it was clean before but he cleaned with brake cleaner and running great.
@@beefheadb0y So I am in the same situation, you cleaned the coils thoroughly and it just magically worked? Every time I take out the coils to trouble shoot they always have a little bit of oil around them. Any suggestions greatly appreciated!
Indeed that was a great very informative instructional video without any useless banter like some other videos and the camera angles were spot on. How long do you figure this took from start to finish? May be doing one in the future month. Thanks
Like the video. Going to see how much mechanic charges in town but I’ll probably end up doing it. Only question I have is how do you get the oil out of the spark plug holes(2 of them)? One was full pretty well. I also put new spark plugs in before realizing oil leak. Do I have to change those new spark plugs after they were in oil? Thanks.
Using a combination of compressed air and brake clean solvent to blow the excess oil out of the sp tube hole. After removing the old plug, a little residual oil leaking into the combustion chamber won't matter much.
Thanks. I stripped everything off the top of the valve cover and removed the fuel rail to find that quite a big part of one of the O-rings had broken off.
I finally did this today on my 2013 Ford Fusion. It seems to be very loud and I forgot to put the foam stuff back under the fuel rail so not sure if that is it. I did have a misfire code and it could be a bad coil but it has me worried . I just quit for the day and will make sure everything is hooked up and maybe unplug the coils one at a time. It was not a pleasant job and I appreciate the video
@@hardlymovingpro My car had a broken MAP sensor and a bad coil. I got it done today and it has never been so smooth. My wife complained of poor mileage so I think the MAP sensor has been broken awhile. I really hope you know how much I appreciate your video. We need that car and I cant afford all the labor. I would watch you do something then go do it. I am in your debit
I have one more question sir, just before you showed the black tube of RTV what was the 2 things you installed new o-rings on? I need to get those and I will have all I need. I didn’t see them in the injector o-ring kit. Thank you
@@hardlymovingprocuánto cobra usted por cambiar el empaque de los cilindros, mi Ford escape 2013 está gastando líquido refrigerante por eso y tiene el cilindro 1 bloqueado
No need to remove the fuse. Place a rag under the fuel rail flare nut and loosen the nut. Residual fuel pressure will release a small amount of fuel and that's it.
i just ordered a valve cover and gasket due too a leak,not sure which is the problem so i have both on order,while waiting on them could you tell me the size of o rings replaced or the names of the parts that require them ,and your video is great thanks.
Besides the injectors orings, what are the other 2 orings called? The ones you replaced in the left side by the oil feeding cap? Looks like sensors maybe? Thanks
Great video man saved me a lot of time. I do recommend anyone doing this job to replace the o ring on the injectors were fuel rail connects to them. I did this at 90k and when went back together sprayed gas.. o rings were faulty and too playable. They are supposed to be hard o rings and yes they are expensive. I suggest rock auto. But the o ring will be the biggest worry for anyone doing this job. I recommend replacing them right off the bat. Just trying to pay it forward. Thanks for the video bro very easy to follow. I would also recommend replacing the cam follower as well on the high pressure fuel pump. If not replaced every 60 k I guarantee you will blow your engine... it's called a cam follower or bucket for the high pressure fuel pump on exhaust cam. I did that during this job as well 10 bucks off rock auto. Easy to install when your right there during this job
Thanks for sharing your valve cover gasket replacement experience! Never had problems re-using o rings as long as I coated them first with silicone grease as well as coating it's contact plugs. But nothing wrong with replacing them with new ones. Interesting recommendation on replacing the cam follower and the hp fuel pump. What causes these to fail and lead to engine damage?
Great video exactly what I was looking for only thing is I fucked up changing my spark plugs i over tightened the coil pack that goes in to the lil gold nut holder idk what it’s called n now it’s stripped n I’m not getting any spark from spark 2 due to the lil type gold cap being stripped went to multiple auto shops said they don’t sell em what is the top piece u took off called
If you overtorque a coil pack bolt, the bolt will force the brass retention nut recessed in the valve cover to spin. Only way to get the nut off is to cut the head of the bolt off with a small rotary cut off disc (i.e. dremel tool). You may have to replace the valve cover because of this damage or find a way to brace the coil pack down.
Man your video has been super helpful, with this video as a guide I replaced this on my Volvo S80 1.6 T4 that has the same engine. 2 Hrs after I changed the valve cover gasket, my coolant outlet gave out (nothing to do with this gasket job btw), where the plastic was as brittle as the valve cover gasket as well. Just falling in to pieces like a pretzel. Do you have any advice for these 1.6 Ecoboost engine for other parts than the valve cover gasket and the coolant outlet that have plastic in them that just gets worn out and brittle over time? I might replace those parts too before they give out but as a DIY-er I have no further experience on these :) Thank you.
Thanks! It's unfortunate that too many car manufacturers are replacing metals with plastics which eventually fail with age as well as repeated heat and cold cycles. I'd recommend you replace vacuum line hoses and check for brittleness of the plastics connectors. Don't attempt to pull the hoses off. Use a razor to make a vertical cut to ease removal. I've also experienced the inlet and outlet hose connections on radiators, heater cores and T connectors fall apart in my hand attempting a hose replacement. Check out this video on a Ford T connector: th-cam.com/video/hL6w2MhvM0I/w-d-xo.html
Very efficient. What kind are the extra long wrenches your using? Also have you had good luck with the aftermarket m12 batteries ? Can't tell what they are. Thanks !
Those plugs for the coil pack and assorted sensors are designed to be pressed from the top, not pried from the bottom. If you push the plug in and press the top of the tab in, it will come off pretty easy. Just FYI. Great video!
Great video. It is both concise and professional. I replaced my valve cover recently and did not torque it down. Would have done so if I had a decent torque wrench. Unfortunately I thought I could get away without replacing the injector o-rings. After assembling everything and running the car for a couple of minutes I noticed a strong smell of petrol and sure enough there was a big pool of petrol on the garage floor. I had tightened the fuel line using the 17 mm ring spanner and thought I had been fairly firm with it. What is likely to be the source of the leak? Could there be a 3rd possibility, that I had broken and injector (although I guess it wouldn't have run properly if that was the case)
Believe its an injector O ring that slipped off. That's why I always coat the O ring and the O ring cap with silicone grease so that the ring slips in place.
Thank you for the video extremely helpful. I just finished mine but now I have a misfire in 3 cylinders. When I pull the rail 3 injectors came out and that the 3 I have a misfire. I replace the orIngs. Thank you
It's direct injection... The tip of the injector that faces the block has a Teflon seal that need to be sized up by seal sizer from Ford. The green o- ring that faces the fuel rail those get lubed with a little bit of oil. But the Teflon seal has to go in dry with no lubrication..... If you don't follow the correct for installing Teflon seals on direct injection you will get a misfire... The car in the video got lucky that they got stuck in the block and only had to replace the green o- rings
Yeah I ripped 3/4 injectors out with the rail. Immediately knew I was screwed... Went ahead and tried to seat em back into the cylinders as snug as possible, but yeah I can hear and smell fuel spitting when the fuel pump charges the rail. Throwing codes. Won't even start today. Completed the install yesterday... So idk what in the hell I need to do at this point. Pisses me off. Clusterfuck of an engine... I've overall had good luck up until this point, but she ain't liking life right now that's for sure...
@@hardlymovingpro yessir. Gonna try and get replacement kit to replace all o-rings and the Teflon seals. Can get a kit for dry fitting those Teflon seals as well I think. Thanks 👍🏻
Hey so if the fuel injector does come out do you need to replace the Teflon seal on the bottom of the injector? The new seals came with the kit but the sizing tool (303-1567) is $150. Just wondering if that's mandatory before buying a tool I'll use once
quick question ... this my first time working on this car .. I was going to do a simple spark and coil change then realize 3 out of 4 coil where slightly wet with motor oil ... that to me is a quick sign of a worn spark plug tube seal!!! after watching you work i didnt see any tube seals .... do u know y my coil is slightly wet with oil.... could if be the valve cover gasket tht bad???? or do i have to keep opening to reach the tube seals????
@@hardlymovingpro so there's no spark plug tube seals on this car?? so my issue is the valve cover gasket itself ?? thank you so much dude .. great vid btw!!!
@@hardlymovingpro thanks for answer. No leaking. Only a damaged Valve of vacuum pump(Orange silicone membrane destroyed). What can i do bad during changing a valve cover gasket that can cause a p132b error and a loss of power...
My question is why does alldata say i need a heat gun to remove the valve cover gasket? Thats the only thing that has stopped me from doing mine. Any info please. Thanks
Doesn't make that much sense to me either. Just don't be too aggressive braking the gasket seal loose from the cylinder head. Pry valve cover corners with wide tip a few driver.
Okay thank you, and do you have the part number for the fuel injector o rings and vvt? The fuel injector o rings look a bit pricey for something that small? Referenced from Autozone Fel-Pro es73118. And should you buy new coil packs as well?
It seems one can't order OEM VVT solenoid o-rings separately, only new solenoids (which come with o-rings). Volvo solenoid part nos. for reference are: 36010300 (intake) and 36011316 (exhaust). This is for the B4164T engine, which I think is the one in the vid. I don't know the Ford part nos. @Hardly Moving Productions, would it be possible to get a spanner under the solenoids so that they needn't be removed?
You might get a little bit of fuel spillage when removing the pipe connecting the high pressure pump to the fuel rail. Just put a rag underneath the flair nut before loosening it.
A problem I had with this engine is the fuel injectors were loose. Are they supposed the be loose? I have white smoke coming from the engine but no overheating and no milky oil, so im assuming the fuel injector seals are bad? Im also assuming the smoke is coming from the fuel injector seals since they are loose? Anyway i could send you a video through email for help?
Injectors are held in place via the fuel rail. The o rings are there to prevent fuel leakage. Without the fuel rail attached the injectors will wiggle around. White smoke could be muffler water heat evaporation during cold morning startups.
Hello I hope you see this comment. I followed your video and something went wrong for me. I replaced the valve cover, spark plugs, and boots but now my car cranks but struggles to start. When it does start it doesn’t stall or anything but it has a very strong gas smell the whole time I drive, my mpg has tanked, and it’s throwing a P00C6 code (fuel rail pressure low). One thing that happened when I pulled out the fuel rail a fuel injector from cylinder 3 came with it, and some gas got down into the connector for the cylinder 1 injector. Some help would be greatly appreciated. I can’t find anything online that narrows it down. Thanks
Awesome video! I have a leaky gasket also. Can you please tell me where you purchased the gasket kit. I can't seem to find one with the o rings included. Thank you for the video.
Im about to dive into this today. My moms car has a broken spark plug to extract! I guess those ole triton spark plug "train wrecks" carried over to the 4 cylinders 😂
Well. Let me start by saying, vehicle was bought used with under 20k, from CarMax. Car now has 70k. She recently got misfire on cyl 3, so I decided easy enough, threw a coil at it, that did nothing. So, orders up a set of plugs. Number 3 was going to be last, so I r&r #1 and #4, they came out as they should. Number #2 was a Trainwreck, I ended up idling the car for 20 min intervals, and applying wrench to "nurse" it out. It was a real bear. But, I got it out. That #2 showed the threads similar to cross threading, but I really think maybe dissimilar metals in combination with forced induction, maybe something else. Anyways, chased the threads and installed that new plug. Moved onto number #3 (initial misfire hole), and did the same process of heating the engine then breaking out tools to work that one loose. IT BROKE, AND LEFT ABOUT 100% of the plugs threads, in the head. I've done service and repair for greater than 25 years,and never broke a plug until now.
I needed your video, to familiarize myself with how much space I can gain, accessing the extraction, with valve cover off. That's how I found ya, lol 😅
Those new O rings are for what I believe are camshaft position sensors. They came with the valve cover gasket kit. Once the sensors have been pulled, not replacing the O rings can result in future oil leaks.
Awesome video. I have a leaky gasket also. Can you please tell me where you purchased the gasket kit. I can't seem to find one with the o rings included. Thank you for the video.
Oh OK, thank you. Now the issue I'm having is that my battery died, but before that while I was cranking it and turned the key to the off position it kept cranking for a little bit, it's that normal?
Great video. Just followed your instructions and when I took the fuel rail off one of the fuel injectors came out with it. I took it off and put it back in it's hole. Finished the job and when I started it up its running pretty bad. Skipping pretty bad. I checked the spark plug and it's covered with gas. Cleaned it off and put it back. Let it run for a minute and still skipping. Checked the same spark plug and it's covered with gas again. Is something not seated properly?
@@n5980 I made sure everything was seated properly and just let it run for a bit. It evened out and is running fine. Haven't had any problems for months.
This is what every repair video should be like.... high speed thru the b.s and detailed instructions for the abnormal parts.
You're right and thanks for your comment and support!
@@hardlymovingpro it helped smash out the 4hr book time job in a fraction of the time!
4 hours? Wow!
Great great great video
Thank you very much! At 160K miles, the valve cover gasket finally gave out and I barely made it home with oil soaked plugs! She’s running great again.
Nice work!
I have a 2013 1.6 Escape and I have to tell you that your dedication to putting together such a detailed video is invaluable to all weekend home mechanics out there and i am very grateful!!! Now I have a guide to follow as i ran into a lot of the same issues you ran into ie: those darn variable timing solenoids spraying oil everywhere! I'm in my late 50's now and just chuckle to think back when we were younger and didn't have the benefit of watching you tube videos as it is such a great resource. Again, great tool but nothing without dedication from people such as yourself that really put great videos together. Keep up the great work!👍
Thanks for your kind critique of this video! Quite honestly, when I first approached this job, I was scratching my head. Where do I begin? I figured take everything on top of the valve cover off! After I dived in, it was like "now what's in the way???!!!". 😩
Update: 10 Sept 2022: on 2014 Ford Escape, 1.6 ltr .
Just completed the valve cover replacement: Your instructions were on the money!!!.
The only problem I had was at the fuel rail. Two of the injectors came out with the rail. Easy job to put back.
All parts recommended by you were correct.
The job took me 4 hours to do.
Thank god for dielectric grease.
Good and you and thanks for sharing!
One of my fuel injectors came out too. Did you just push it back down? It seems to be a little “wiggly” compared to the others.
Doesn't matter if the injector came off from the top or bottom.
@@hardlymovingpro Thanks!
Great to know it can be done without removing the injectors or the high pressure pump. Really wanted to avoid doing that. Thank you for the video
You bet 👍
I just did this job today on my 2015 Ford Escaoe with 141k miles that had an active oil leak at the rear left corner of the valve gasket. I had a boroscope camera and it was leaking pretty good! I appreciate all the information and detail you put into this video. Ive torn my car apart a few times and do my own maintenance. This jobs took me about 3 hours, from hood open to hood closed with a few breaks.
For anyone that is doing this, you might want to clean your ignition coil boots and fill the ends with dielectric grease (mine were filled with oil).
A tip for when reinstalling your windshield wipers, turn the car on to accessory mode and then turn the wipers on once and then turn them off, this will lock them into the off position. While the car is still on, install your wipers.
Can't thank you enough for giving the weekend warriers help. I love wrenching as much as then next guy but gives me confidence when I know exactly what to do!
Thanks for sharing you wonderful repair story!
I have an estimate that is about $1,200 to replace my valve cover and spark plugs on '13 Fusion. Definitely going to take on the task of fixing it myself. Appreciate all the info!
That's a huge price quote on a job that shouldn't take at most 3 hours.
Ouch
Thank you so much for this video. I was able to successfully do this job because of your help. The other comments of fails seemed to concern the injectors, so I was very careful in removing the fuel rail without disturbing the injectors, and had replacement o-rings ready to go on. Had to order an entire kit for each injector to get the top o-rings, which I replaced as you instructed. Thankfully I did not have to use the other parts of the kit, because the injectors were undisturbed while removing the fuel rail. For others thinking of doing this -- take notes, take your time, be prepared. Hope you have success. Thanks again!!
Good for you and thank you for sharing your repair experience!
2013 Ford Fusion Here. This saved so much time and headache. Ty!
Good for you!
You're a super hero brother! Watching this video made the job 10X quicker when I did it.
Good for you and thanks for sharing!
Gone are the days of the 30 minute valve cover job. I am going to do this on my wife’s 2013 fusion. It was done twice by the dealer under warranty but this time I will do it
Use FelPro gaskets in lieu of Ford OEM. May have better luck with longevity.
Thank you so much for this video bro! I just finished doing the valve cover on 2015 Ford Escape at 170k miles! Your step by step video was perfect 👍🏽 well done!
Great to hear!
Thanks so much for the video!! Just finished my valve cover gasket and replacing my injectors at the same time. Took me 4 hours and saved me a ton of money.
I’d like to add that it is supposed to be a 3-stage torque on the valve cover bolts.
5 nm
9 nm
10 nm
There’s also a specific sequence to torque the bolts that I found shared in a forum.
Thanks again!
Thanks for sharing and glad it all worked out for you!
I've been trying to find the same procedure for a volvo v40 t4 with the same engine. This is exactly what i needed. Spot on! really appreciate this. My oil leak is exactly the way you described it
Glad it helped!
Thank you for the very detailed video. I’ll be changing my valve cover gasket this weekend. My local Ford dealer quoted me $850 for this repair!
Wow! That's big bucks for less than 3 hours of work!
@@hardlymovingpro Yes because they pull the fuel injectors out of the engine also claim cant be done with them in their
$850!! I wish my dealership charged me that little. My dealer tried charging me $1565 in labor $100 for parts. Then another $225 in labor to change the spark plugs (oh another $120 for parts). All in all it was gonna be $2600 for valve cover gasket, spark plugs and ignition coils. I told them ill do it myself. This video is awesome help! Glad I didnt spend the money with them.
It's a pattern I'm noticing with auto repair quotes as more people choose to hold onto their cars instead of trading in for a new one. There's the labor problem as well. No one wants to be a mechanic and the repair shops are overwhelmed with service demand.
My Ford dealer quoted me $483 plus tax.
My dad wanted to say thank you for posting this video..
Glad you found it useful!
The audio in your videos are very enjoyable for some reason. Very satisfying.
Thanks! I don't know ... Some people have said I have a pleasant voice?
These are the kinda videos that save me 1000s of dollars
Thanks! Need more guys like you with your attitude!
What was the torque specs for the fuel rail ? My car isnt getting any gas to it after i put everything back together
They're only 10mm fastener bolts that require 10 or less lbs of torque which isn't a lot. I'm going to guess that the fuel rail O rings are not seated properly and you're leaking fuel.
Awesome video. Best repair video I've seen in a while
Thanks 👍
What are the metal cylinders you have to take out on the left side I still have an oil leak in the top left corner and I just replaced the gasket. I’m not sure if that need replacing. 4:26
Those are the intake and exhaust camshaft solenoids. They're exposed to oil and harden o ring seals could be a source of oil leakage. Good practice to replace them.
Thanks for the great video, sir. You are a professional at your job! (I’ve seen a lot of wannabe mechanics).
Thanks 👍
Excellent video. Very well produced. As others have said informative and to the point. I really like the tips on the electrical connections as they can be a bear to figure out. My valve cover isn’t leaking yet but when the time comes this video will be essential to my success. Thanks. Roger
Glad you enjoyed it!
Also did you use dielectric(spelled wrong probably)grease throughout the video? I noticed at times you said silicone grease. Just making sure I apply right grease throughout. Thanks.
Di-electric is silicone grease. Also called plumber's grease.
Thanking for the information. Next question. Can I use a standard o ring for the VVT.
If it doesn't swell if exposed to oil.
Excellent video my dude!! Speed thru the BS and showed us what and where is what......
Glad you enjoyed!
I’m getting ready to replace my VC on 2014. Would you recommend the complete kit with gaskets and o rings? Nice vid.
If the valve cover has no cracks, I'd just replace the gasket and o rings.
@ Thank you.
First, thanks so much. Spent almost all day doing this on my Ford S-Max. Never done anything like this before. All generally went well, fuel rail was a b*tch to get off but o rings stayed on injectors so all good. I got an oem Ford gasket which, at the vital moment, I discovered had a defect. So good tip would be get two! Had to put in on regardless.
I also did plugs, when I fired it up, started quickly but misfiring. I removed all the coils for visual check, having put them back in now it won't start at all. Thrown in the towel for today but any advice welcome. I have an obd dongle. Once again thanks, I owe you a beer!
Double check all vacuum lines and electrical connections (i.e. disconnect and reconnect).
I stripped back to the fuel rail and noticed that 1 of the injectors easily rotates if I twist it the others are all solid. Starts now but back to misfire. If that injector came loose with the fuel rail do I need to replace o rings and teflon seal? Or might the misfire clear in time? Where can I send your beer money, would never have had confidence to get this far without your help.
Not unusual for the injector to rotate. Could be a defective fuel injector or the new replaced spark plug.
Got some help on this. Turned out too much grease in coils and residual gas in plug wells. Thought it was clean before but he cleaned with brake cleaner and running great.
@@beefheadb0y So I am in the same situation, you cleaned the coils thoroughly and it just magically worked? Every time I take out the coils to trouble shoot they always have a little bit of oil around them. Any suggestions greatly appreciated!
Indeed that was a great very informative instructional video without any useless banter like some other videos and the camera angles were spot on. How long do you figure this took from start to finish? May be doing one in the future month. Thanks
Thanks! I'd say around 3 hours.
Like the video. Going to see how much mechanic charges in town but I’ll probably end up doing it. Only question I have is how do you get the oil out of the spark plug holes(2 of them)? One was full pretty well. I also put new spark plugs in before realizing oil leak. Do I have to change those new spark plugs after they were in oil? Thanks.
Using a combination of compressed air and brake clean solvent to blow the excess oil out of the sp tube hole. After removing the old plug, a little residual oil leaking into the combustion chamber won't matter much.
Thanks. I stripped everything off the top of the valve cover and removed the fuel rail to find that quite a big part of one of the O-rings had broken off.
That's not good.
I finally did this today on my 2013 Ford Fusion. It seems to be very loud and I forgot to put the foam stuff back under the fuel rail so not sure if that is it. I did have a misfire code and it could be a bad coil but it has me worried . I just quit for the day and will make sure everything is hooked up and maybe unplug the coils one at a time. It was not a pleasant job and I appreciate the video
Thanks for sharing. The foam is used as a noise dampener.
@@hardlymovingpro My car had a broken MAP sensor and a bad coil. I got it done today and it has never been so smooth. My wife complained of poor mileage so I think the MAP sensor has been broken awhile. I really hope you know how much I appreciate your video. We need that car and I cant afford all the labor. I would watch you do something then go do it. I am in your debit
You bet and thanks for sharing!
I just did my 13 fusion today as well same result. What was wrong with yours? Cylinder 2 and 3 missing is what code reader says
I have one more question sir, just before you showed the black tube of RTV what was the 2 things you installed new o-rings on? I need to get those and I will have all I need. I didn’t see them in the injector o-ring kit. Thank you
Camshaft position sensors.
@@hardlymovingpro I really appreciate you sir
You bet!
Nicely done video!
Glad you liked it!
Thank you just replaced mines using your video as a reference ❤
Glad it helped!
Donde tiene su taller amigo?
Al este de Memphis, Tennessee.
@@hardlymovingprocuánto cobra usted por cambiar el empaque de los cilindros, mi Ford escape 2013 está gastando líquido refrigerante por eso y tiene el cilindro 1 bloqueado
@@hardlymovingpro ahora llevo una hora de carretera y me dice (temperatura de motor alta pare con cuidado)
Cual era el problema y cuanto te costo arregarlo? Gracias
Do I need to depressurize the high pressure fuel pump and fuel rail by disconnecting the fuel pump fuse in order to do this job?
No need to remove the fuse. Place a rag under the fuel rail flare nut and loosen the nut. Residual fuel pressure will release a small amount of fuel and that's it.
Thank you!
i just ordered a valve cover and gasket due too a leak,not sure which is the problem so i have both on order,while waiting on them could you tell me the size of o rings replaced or the names of the parts that require them ,and your video is great thanks.
The valve cover gasket should come with new o rings.
Besides the injectors orings, what are the other 2 orings called? The ones you replaced in the left side by the oil feeding cap? Looks like sensors maybe? Thanks
It came with the FelPro gasket replacement kit. Believe they're O rings for the camshaft solenoids.
Great video man saved me a lot of time. I do recommend anyone doing this job to replace the o ring on the injectors were fuel rail connects to them. I did this at 90k and when went back together sprayed gas.. o rings were faulty and too playable. They are supposed to be hard o rings and yes they are expensive. I suggest rock auto. But the o ring will be the biggest worry for anyone doing this job. I recommend replacing them right off the bat. Just trying to pay it forward. Thanks for the video bro very easy to follow. I would also recommend replacing the cam follower as well on the high pressure fuel pump. If not replaced every 60 k I guarantee you will blow your engine... it's called a cam follower or bucket for the high pressure fuel pump on exhaust cam. I did that during this job as well 10 bucks off rock auto. Easy to install when your right there during this job
Thanks for sharing your valve cover gasket replacement experience! Never had problems re-using o rings as long as I coated them first with silicone grease as well as coating it's contact plugs. But nothing wrong with replacing them with new ones. Interesting recommendation on replacing the cam follower and the hp fuel pump. What causes these to fail and lead to engine damage?
The wrong or oldwayoverdue oil. The extreme pressure additive for these is the D in Dexos.
Great video exactly what I was looking for only thing is I fucked up changing my spark plugs i over tightened the coil pack that goes in to the lil gold nut holder idk what it’s called n now it’s stripped n I’m not getting any spark from spark 2 due to the lil type gold cap being stripped went to multiple auto shops said they don’t sell em what is the top piece u took off called
If you overtorque a coil pack bolt, the bolt will force the brass retention nut recessed in the valve cover to spin. Only way to get the nut off is to cut the head of the bolt off with a small rotary cut off disc (i.e. dremel tool). You may have to replace the valve cover because of this damage or find a way to brace the coil pack down.
@@hardlymovingpro I have a 14 fiesta st but it has the same engine appreciate you u know where I can find a valve cover or what’s the part number
Man your video has been super helpful, with this video as a guide I replaced this on my Volvo S80 1.6 T4 that has the same engine.
2 Hrs after I changed the valve cover gasket, my coolant outlet gave out (nothing to do with this gasket job btw), where the plastic was as brittle as the valve cover gasket as well. Just falling in to pieces like a pretzel.
Do you have any advice for these 1.6 Ecoboost engine for other parts than the valve cover gasket and the coolant outlet that have plastic in them that just gets worn out and brittle over time? I might replace those parts too before they give out but as a DIY-er I have no further experience on these :) Thank you.
Thanks! It's unfortunate that too many car manufacturers are replacing metals with plastics which eventually fail with age as well as repeated heat and cold cycles. I'd recommend you replace vacuum line hoses and check for brittleness of the plastics connectors. Don't attempt to pull the hoses off. Use a razor to make a vertical cut to ease removal. I've also experienced the inlet and outlet hose connections on radiators, heater cores and T connectors fall apart in my hand attempting a hose replacement. Check out this video on a Ford T connector: th-cam.com/video/hL6w2MhvM0I/w-d-xo.html
I am having trouble telling if the coils are seated properly, how do I know they are on the spark plugs well enough?
If there's no misfire after starting the car.
Where did you buy the kid at for the gaskets to change the valve cover gaskets
Any auto supply retailer.
Just changed my valve cover gasket in my 2013 1.6 Escape. Thanks for your very detailed video, it was so helpful!
You bet!
Cleanest repair , this should work on any 1.6ecoboost?
Yes it should.
Thank you for your video. Very informal did my own gasket with your help!
Good for you!
How did you get the clips over the fuel rail? Your supposed to pull the injectors
Injectors stay on the engine block. Unbolt the fuel rail and line and you can remove fuel rail as shown in the video.
Very good video , thank you. Followed step by step perfectly .
Glad it helped!
Very efficient. What kind are the extra long wrenches your using? Also have you had good luck with the aftermarket m12 batteries ? Can't tell what they are. Thanks !
I use Milwaukee's M12 3/8" electric ratchet and impact gun. The aftermarket batteries work fine.
Those plugs for the coil pack and assorted sensors are designed to be pressed from the top, not pried from the bottom. If you push the plug in and press the top of the tab in, it will come off pretty easy. Just FYI. Great video!
Thanks for sharing!
Great video. It is both concise and professional. I replaced my valve cover recently and did not torque it down. Would have done so if I had a decent torque wrench. Unfortunately I thought I could get away without replacing the injector o-rings. After assembling everything and running the car for a couple of minutes I noticed a strong smell of petrol and sure enough there was a big pool of petrol on the garage floor. I had tightened the fuel line using the 17 mm ring spanner and thought I had been fairly firm with it. What is likely to be the source of the leak? Could there be a 3rd possibility, that I had broken and injector (although I guess it wouldn't have run properly if that was the case)
Believe its an injector O ring that slipped off. That's why I always coat the O ring and the O ring cap with silicone grease so that the ring slips in place.
@@hardlymovingpro hello
Do they make a kit that has all those o-rings?
If referring to the fuel injectors, yes.
Thank you for the video extremely helpful. I just finished mine but now I have a misfire in 3 cylinders. When I pull the rail 3 injectors came out and that the 3 I have a misfire. I replace the orIngs.
Thank you
If there's a problem with any of the o rings, you experience fuel leakage.
It's direct injection... The tip of the injector that faces the block has a Teflon seal that need to be sized up by seal sizer from Ford. The green o- ring that faces the fuel rail those get lubed with a little bit of oil. But the Teflon seal has to go in dry with no lubrication..... If you don't follow the correct for installing Teflon seals on direct injection you will get a misfire... The car in the video got lucky that they got stuck in the block and only had to replace the green o- rings
Yeah I ripped 3/4 injectors out with the rail. Immediately knew I was screwed... Went ahead and tried to seat em back into the cylinders as snug as possible, but yeah I can hear and smell fuel spitting when the fuel pump charges the rail. Throwing codes. Won't even start today. Completed the install yesterday... So idk what in the hell I need to do at this point. Pisses me off. Clusterfuck of an engine... I've overall had good luck up until this point, but she ain't liking life right now that's for sure...
Get new o rings, if damaged/torn, lubricate with dielectric grease then reinstall. The grease will noticeably ease installation.
@@hardlymovingpro yessir. Gonna try and get replacement kit to replace all o-rings and the Teflon seals. Can get a kit for dry fitting those Teflon seals as well I think. Thanks 👍🏻
Hey so if the fuel injector does come out do you need to replace the Teflon seal on the bottom of the injector? The new seals came with the kit but the sizing tool (303-1567) is $150. Just wondering if that's mandatory before buying a tool I'll use once
In this video I only remove the fuel rail from the injectors and I used the existing o rings. No need to remove the injectors from the engine.
quick question ... this my first time working on this car .. I was going to do a simple spark and coil change then realize 3 out of 4 coil where slightly wet with motor oil ... that to me is a quick sign of a worn spark plug tube seal!!! after watching you work i didnt see any tube seals .... do u know y my coil is slightly wet with oil.... could if be the valve cover gasket tht bad???? or do i have to keep opening to reach the tube seals????
Leakage from the cover gasket can migrate to the AP tubes.
@@hardlymovingpro so there's no spark plug tube seals on this car?? so my issue is the valve cover gasket itself ?? thank you so much dude .. great vid btw!!!
After changing the gasket i have p132b fault od turbocharger. What should i check? 1.6 ecoboost 160hp mondeo mk4
Check for air hose vacuum leaks with all your hoses and your air intake tube leading to the turbo.
@@hardlymovingpro thanks for answer. No leaking. Only a damaged Valve of vacuum pump(Orange silicone membrane destroyed). What can i do bad during changing a valve cover gasket that can cause a p132b error and a loss of power...
Very good video and very good tips. Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge.
GOD bless you 🙏🏽
Glad you found it helpful!
Hi I have a 1.6 where would the oils be coming from if my spark plugs have some in there
What gasket is leaking
Maybe from the coil pack tube gasket.
What brand of Fuel Injector o ring did you use on the 2014 Escape fuel rail (TOP). 1.6 LTR Engine
Doesn't matter. It's low tech. Get Motorcraft or Mahle.
Thank you for the clear concise video. God bless!
You're welcome.
What was your charge to do thosbqith parts and howblongvdid it take you
Charged for 3.5 hours and $30 parts.
What is your hourly rate and location
East of Memphis, TN
Great job on the video. 🔥🔥🔥
Glad you liked it!
I have the same problem my gasket is leaking what will a fair price to repair at a mechanic shop I should pay ?
Not more than 3 hours labor + cost of parts
My question is why does alldata say i need a heat gun to remove the valve cover gasket? Thats the only thing that has stopped me from doing mine. Any info please. Thanks
Doesn't make that much sense to me either. Just don't be too aggressive braking the gasket seal loose from the cylinder head. Pry valve cover corners with wide tip a few driver.
@@hardlymovingpro awesome thanks for the reply.
Okay thank you, and do you have the part number for the fuel injector o rings and vvt? The fuel injector o rings look a bit pricey for something that small? Referenced from Autozone Fel-Pro es73118. And should you buy new coil packs as well?
The Felpro gasket kit came with new vvt o rings. I re-used the FI o rings. I only replace coil packs when they fail.
It seems one can't order OEM VVT solenoid o-rings separately, only new solenoids (which come with o-rings). Volvo solenoid part nos. for reference are: 36010300 (intake) and 36011316 (exhaust). This is for the B4164T engine, which I think is the one in the vid. I don't know the Ford part nos. @Hardly Moving Productions, would it be possible to get a spanner under the solenoids so that they needn't be removed?
You saved my life. Thank you
Glad the video helped you out!
Hey what’s the name of that red handle tool you used to pinch the hose clamp? I would appreciate it!
They're called hose clamp pliers. I provided a link to a set in this video's description.
Did you have release fuel pressure
You might get a little bit of fuel spillage when removing the pipe connecting the high pressure pump to the fuel rail. Just put a rag underneath the flair nut before loosening it.
How do I find those O-rings you replaced ?
They're included in the FelPar gasket replacement kit.
@@hardlymovingprothank you. The seller doesn't really make that clear.
@dustin1870 you may be right. The kit I bought came with them without stating that they did. Anyway the old o rings may still be okay.
Did you pull out Fuze F56 to depreasure the fuel system??
Nope.
A problem I had with this engine is the fuel injectors were loose. Are they supposed the be loose? I have white smoke coming from the engine but no overheating and no milky oil, so im assuming the fuel injector seals are bad? Im also assuming the smoke is coming from the fuel injector seals since they are loose? Anyway i could send you a video through email for help?
Did you also replace bottom o ring for fuel injectors?
Injectors are held in place via the fuel rail. The o rings are there to prevent fuel leakage. Without the fuel rail attached the injectors will wiggle around. White smoke could be muffler water heat evaporation during cold morning startups.
Do I really need to replace the vvt solenoid o-rings as you did? Where did you source them?
The new o rings came with the Fel Pro gasket replacement kit.
Do you have a part number for the vvt o-rings?
O rings came with the Fel Pro gasket kit. Link to the kit provided in this video's description area.
Very knowledgeable and professional work.👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻.
Thanks!
do the o rings for the fuel injectors come with the valve cover gasket set?
Nope
Hello I hope you see this comment. I followed your video and something went wrong for me. I replaced the valve cover, spark plugs, and boots but now my car cranks but struggles to start. When it does start it doesn’t stall or anything but it has a very strong gas smell the whole time I drive, my mpg has tanked, and it’s throwing a P00C6 code (fuel rail pressure low).
One thing that happened when I pulled out the fuel rail a fuel injector from cylinder 3 came with it, and some gas got down into the connector for the cylinder 1 injector.
Some help would be greatly appreciated. I can’t find anything online that narrows it down. Thanks
More than likely the o ring in one of your injectors is damaged.
Wondering why you removed the VVT solenoids?
Got in the way to remove the cover.
@@hardlymovingpro I see what you mean. They cover a few bolts.
Man great work. Can you do this to my escape? Probably cost me 2k at the dealer
Shouldn't be that much. We're talking about 3 hours of labor.
did you removed the fuel line fuse and burn any fuel left in the system before removing the injectors ?
Nope. Not very much residual pressure.
Where are you located?And what do you charge to do this job
East of Memphis. 4 hrs labor.
@hardlymovingpro how do I contact you to do work
email me at hardlymoving@gmail.com
Excellent vid. Perfectly done ✅
Glad you liked it!
Awesome video! I have a leaky gasket also. Can you please tell me where you purchased the gasket kit. I can't seem to find one with the o rings included. Thank you for the video.
Try rockauto.com
Im about to dive into this today. My moms car has a broken spark plug to extract! I guess those ole triton spark plug "train wrecks" carried over to the 4 cylinders 😂
I like the celaphane under the cap trick, for opened tubes of rtv
Yup. Keeps the RTV from drying out
Not aware the plugs break on these engines
Well. Let me start by saying, vehicle was bought used with under 20k, from CarMax. Car now has 70k. She recently got misfire on cyl 3, so I decided easy enough, threw a coil at it, that did nothing. So, orders up a set of plugs. Number 3 was going to be last, so I r&r #1 and #4, they came out as they should. Number #2 was a Trainwreck, I ended up idling the car for 20 min intervals, and applying wrench to "nurse" it out. It was a real bear. But, I got it out. That #2 showed the threads similar to cross threading, but I really think maybe dissimilar metals in combination with forced induction, maybe something else. Anyways, chased the threads and installed that new plug. Moved onto number #3 (initial misfire hole), and did the same process of heating the engine then breaking out tools to work that one loose. IT BROKE, AND LEFT ABOUT 100% of the plugs threads, in the head. I've done service and repair for greater than 25 years,and never broke a plug until now.
I needed your video, to familiarize myself with how much space I can gain, accessing the extraction, with valve cover off. That's how I found ya, lol 😅
Brilliant video thank you great detail 👍
Glad you enjoyed it!
What were those 2 o ring gaskets? and can I do the job without replacing those?
Those new O rings are for what I believe are camshaft position sensors. They came with the valve cover gasket kit. Once the sensors have been pulled, not replacing the O rings can result in future oil leaks.
Awesome video. I have a leaky gasket also. Can you please tell me where you purchased the gasket kit. I can't seem to find one with the o rings included. Thank you for the video.
Did you clean the spark plug well after the gasket repair? Or did you just let it burn out?
Just a minor amount of oil. Let it burn out.
is it the same for a 1.5 ??
Can't say.
Best I have seen.❤
thanks!
How do i prime the fuel pump?
You don't. Just crank over the engine a few times.
Oh OK, thank you. Now the issue I'm having is that my battery died, but before that while I was cranking it and turned the key to the off position it kept cranking for a little bit, it's that normal?
@@oz4120 malfunctioning starter?
What was actual time to complete the job?
So if I buy the gasket from your link you'll earn from that ?
Yea ... around 4.5 %
where did you get the vvt solenoid o-rings?
It came with the valve FelPro cover gasket kit.
@@hardlymovingpro from your Amazon link?
That's one avenue if not from a local parts store.
@@hardlymovingpro thank you.
How many hours is this job? Looks like fun smh
Around 3 hours.
Thank you this is my project this weekend cheers
Very helpful video! Thank you!
You're welcome!
Wheeew what a pita job!! What's the labor hour?
Around 3. Next time, around 2 or less.
Great vid. How long did the job take?
With the learning curve, around 3 hours.
@@hardlymovingpro Just finished mine. thanks for the video again....
You bet!
THANK YOU FOR THIS VIDEO!!!!
You bet!
Greatest video ever
Thanks!
You are the best
Thanks!
Great video. Just followed your instructions and when I took the fuel rail off one of the fuel injectors came out with it. I took it off and put it back in it's hole. Finished the job and when I started it up its running pretty bad. Skipping pretty bad. I checked the spark plug and it's covered with gas. Cleaned it off and put it back. Let it run for a minute and still skipping. Checked the same spark plug and it's covered with gas again. Is something not seated properly?
Check all fuel line connectors for tightness. Check that the injectors has a its O ring both top and bottom.
Did you resolve this? I’m having the same problem.
@@n5980 I made sure everything was seated properly and just let it run for a bit. It evened out and is running fine. Haven't had any problems for months.