Thanks , Al. It’s a pretty straight forward procedure. I thought maybe it would be better protected with some high temp grease, as those bearing can get pretty hot, I imagine. Wondering if that’s why those OEM packed bearings last longer. But those don’t get the stress of being on a track with kerbstones either. Appreciate the video’s.
Thanks for this. I'm used to working on 70s cars. I just got an MX5 (for the street and occasional hillclimbs) and it's so weird to me that aftermarket parts throw away entire things like a whole hub. It seems wasteful. I'll do this to keep mine good.
Thanks Al, im currently chanign out the shocks that lower ball joint, hammering it didn't work but i bought a ball joint seperator for like $15 that did the trick,, hey on this one i noticed you torqued the front hubs to 100 pounds, I'm changing out the hubs now and I'm not saying you're wrong but from what i can see it varies from 140-170 my ride is a 02 nb you might be working on a na so less torque,, anyway appreciate all the vids you make... see you on the racetrack man!!!!
Thanks Backroad, I was a trans builder for Ford for 20yrs, when I got into racing Miatas I would rebuild them all the time. The parts would normally set me back about $500. The trans would last about 2yrs then start having problems again. Over the years I found that a good used low mileage trans from a NB would last just as long, for about $150. Since then I just don't rebuild them any longer. I could tear one down and explain how they work if you would like. Thank you for watching
@@aracing Oh yeah, I remember you telling me this in the garage when that green NB got stuck in 2 gears at once. If you ever do a teardown, I will be interested to see what everything does
The three dimes trick is fantastic! Can't wait to go into the garage and try it out. In one of your older comments, you mention that you do use a Timken bearing in it. Is the for the front hub? I don't recall seeing that in the video. This is VERY helpful. These steps make is quite doable even for me! Appreciate it.
Yes first I rinse the solvent out with water, then blow dry. The plastic cage drove me crazy too. Most of the time it just broke and I had to toss the entire hub. Since I stated using this method I have very few hub problems.
Hey Al, thanks for the great content. Prepping an NA with my old man for next track season. It’s my first Miata so this channel is a serious help. - I’m repacking the bearings this week and wondering what solvent you recommend for cleaning Thanks!
I ended up using acetone on a toothbrush, some WD40 and then rinsed with water thoroughly and immediately dried with hairdryer. Hoping the acetone wasn’t too harsh on the plastic bits.
Carlos im not sure what choices I have. I normally use a hub from a good donor and install a new Timken bearing in it. I do not have many failures but they do go bad. Thank you for watching
Hey Al im in the middle of changing my wheel hub and the brake pad fell off the back side of the rotor on accident, is it fine if i just put it back on?
Hey al! Loved filming for this. Would love to film again!
Just picked up my first miata, glad your videos are available to reference for the work it needs
Truly my pleasure Jon, best of luck with your new ride. Send a pict if you can and let me know if you need anything.
Thanks , Al. It’s a pretty straight forward procedure. I thought maybe it would be better protected with some high temp grease, as those bearing can get pretty hot, I imagine. Wondering if that’s why those OEM packed bearings last longer. But those don’t get the stress of being on a track with kerbstones either. Appreciate the video’s.
Ive tried many different types of grease over the years and haven't seen much difference. Let me know how your go.
Thanks for the videos! Very informative. Greetings from Ireland
Ireland! dang im trying to get my mom to watch them and she live the next block over. Thank you
Thanks for this. I'm used to working on 70s cars. I just got an MX5 (for the street and occasional hillclimbs) and it's so weird to me that aftermarket parts throw away entire things like a whole hub. It seems wasteful. I'll do this to keep mine good.
Thanks Al, im currently chanign out the shocks that lower ball joint, hammering it didn't work but i bought a ball joint seperator for like $15 that did the trick,, hey on this one i noticed you torqued the front hubs to 100 pounds, I'm changing out the hubs now and I'm not saying you're wrong but from what i can see it varies from 140-170 my ride is a 02 nb you might be working on a na so less torque,, anyway appreciate all the vids you make... see you on the racetrack man!!!!
Thank you for the tips and video
No problem Brian, thank you for taking the time to watch them.
Bro - you rock. Awesome
Great video. Good tips
Answered on Q&A Monday
eventually would like to see transmission rebuild
Thanks Backroad, I was a trans builder for Ford for 20yrs, when I got into racing Miatas I would rebuild them all the time. The parts would normally set me back about $500. The trans would last about 2yrs then start having problems again. Over the years I found that a good used low mileage trans from a NB would last just as long, for about $150. Since then I just don't rebuild them any longer. I could tear one down and explain how they work if you would like. Thank you for watching
@@aracing Oh yeah, I remember you telling me this in the garage when that green NB got stuck in 2 gears at once. If you ever do a teardown, I will be interested to see what everything does
The three dimes trick is fantastic! Can't wait to go into the garage and try it out. In one of your older comments, you mention that you do use a Timken bearing in it. Is the for the front hub? I don't recall seeing that in the video. This is VERY helpful. These steps make is quite doable even for me! Appreciate it.
So you don’t take the balls and plastic holder out? Those always drove me crazy. Do you blow the solvent out with compressed air?
Good question
Yes first I rinse the solvent out with water, then blow dry. The plastic cage drove me crazy too. Most of the time it just broke and I had to toss the entire hub. Since I stated using this method I have very few hub problems.
How frequently are you servicing your hubs? Do you go by how much time is on them, or wait until there's noise/play?
If you wait till they make noise or have play, its too late. So I pack them every year if they need it or not. Thank you for the comment and watching
I’m a little late to the party, but is there anything salvageable from hubs that started to get some play(car is on the track 90% of its road time)
Hey Al, thanks for the great content. Prepping an NA with my old man for next track season. It’s my first Miata so this channel is a serious help. - I’m repacking the bearings this week and wondering what solvent you recommend for cleaning Thanks!
Any solvent that will cut grease. Even Simple Green will work. Thank you for chiming in. Let me know how your car turns out.
I ended up using acetone on a toothbrush, some WD40 and then rinsed with water thoroughly and immediately dried with hairdryer. Hoping the acetone wasn’t too harsh on the plastic bits.
Great video 👍👍👍 What’s the purpose of the longer wheel studs ? Also are the races for the wheel bearings available to purchase ? Thanks in advance 👍😎
It makes it easier to put the wheel back on. Once you try them you wont go short studs again. Thank you for the comment Jack
What’s your preference for rear hubs?
Carlos im not sure what choices I have. I normally use a hub from a good donor and install a new Timken bearing in it. I do not have many failures but they do go bad. Thank you for watching
Why don't you insent the collar of the hub nut? That's supposed to be extra security
Hey Al im in the middle of changing my wheel hub and the brake pad fell off the back side of the rotor on accident, is it fine if i just put it back on?
Yes
@@aracing thanks for the help! mission successfully passed installed my first front hub
Oh crap, never mind, commented too soon