Definitely use the tensioner. This is the reason e46 330 loose the oil pump nut. The chains at over 6000 RPM with the slack of not having a tension is was whips on the sprocket causing the bit to back off. There is a video on installing the tensioner on e46 that don't have it.
Safety wire not correct. Should have gone to the farther sprocket and had tension on the wire. IF the nut loosens, then what you did will stop the nut to come off completely right away, but it will be lose, and eventually ruin the splines on the oil pump or sprocket. With the red thread locker it will hold for a while, might never come off because you have the tensioner. lack of tensioner the main cause of the nut coming off.
Enjoying the build! Plan is to follow up soon, still figuring out what is the best combo of the M50 family for bottom end. Maybe I skipped it through the build but didn't catch what crank, rods and pistons are you running? Also which hg and what thickness? If I see right that's M50nv rods but vanos pistons?
Nice! All the bottom end stuff is basically stock m50 vanos parts, just with new bearings and piston rings. The headgasket is a .120" MLS from VAC motorsports if i remember correctly. They recommended between an 0.098"-0.140" range and said every 0.010" thicker than stock will reduce CR by approximately .25CR.
Thats the small oil pump. Bmw redesigned it. That pump with the un used bolt hole loop on the oil bypass. Its 20 or 25% smaller than the vanos pump? Prolly ok for a stock street motor with no vanos.. HOWEVER, DRIFTING... I would swap it for a later pump with out the un used bolt hole. The impeller is about 3/4ths of inch wider on the later pump. I found out cuz i bought a acciles drop in rotor.. wouldent fit.
Good video man! I was just wondering if the ring gap would be different if you measured on the bottom part of the cylinder, since theoretically it should be slighty smaller because of the cylinder taper. Do you think it is small enough to be ignored or should I keep it in mind for a build? Keep up the good videos 👍
![[Part 1] ทารกน้อยถูกทิ้ง👶 หญิงชราเก็บขวดขายเลี้ยงดูเขาจนโต #โลกการละคร](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nPTDvFCExks/mqdefault.jpg)
these are extremely detailed and thorough. thank you a ton for making these!
Nice cool build definitely subscribing to your channel💪🏽I’ve got m50b25tu e36 👍🏽🔥
Definitely use the tensioner. This is the reason e46 330 loose the oil pump nut. The chains at over 6000 RPM with the slack of not having a tension is was whips on the sprocket causing the bit to back off. There is a video on installing the tensioner on e46 that don't have it.
Spank ranch garage has a video install
Great series gotta say!👏 Hm u have spent for rebuilding m50 motor?
Safety wire not correct. Should have gone to the farther sprocket and had tension on the wire. IF the nut loosens, then what you did will stop the nut to come off completely right away, but it will be lose, and eventually ruin the splines on the oil pump or sprocket. With the red thread locker it will hold for a while, might never come off because you have the tensioner. lack of tensioner the main cause of the nut coming off.
Enjoying the build! Plan is to follow up soon, still figuring out what is the best combo of the M50 family for bottom end. Maybe I skipped it through the build but didn't catch what crank, rods and pistons are you running? Also which hg and what thickness? If I see right that's M50nv rods but vanos pistons?
Nice! All the bottom end stuff is basically stock m50 vanos parts, just with new bearings and piston rings. The headgasket is a .120" MLS from VAC motorsports if i remember correctly. They recommended between an 0.098"-0.140" range and said every 0.010" thicker than stock will reduce CR by approximately .25CR.
@@Purpose_Built Thanks, good info!
By that calc you should be around 9.2CR
Thats the small oil pump. Bmw redesigned it. That pump with the un used bolt hole loop on the oil bypass. Its 20 or 25% smaller than the vanos pump? Prolly ok for a stock street motor with no vanos.. HOWEVER, DRIFTING... I would swap it for a later pump with out the un used bolt hole. The impeller is about 3/4ths of inch wider on the later pump. I found out cuz i bought a acciles drop in rotor.. wouldent fit.
Did those come on the vanos M50's? 93+? Im building a forged bottom end on a M50NV and doing the same oil pump mod on mine.
Hello, where can i find the specification sheets for my m50b20?
Good video man! I was just wondering if the ring gap would be different if you measured on the bottom part of the cylinder, since theoretically it should be slighty smaller because of the cylinder taper. Do you think it is small enough to be ignored or should I keep it in mind for a build? Keep up the good videos 👍
Hmmm yeah it’s probably best to check it that way, I’m still learning this process too so that’s a good tip👍
Heyyy what the lbf.ft for the connectons rod screw broo?
17ft-lbs. followed by 70 degree turn
@@Purpose_Built thanks you broo good video 💪🏽💪🏽