I work for a Rheem dealer, and I find them to be very easy to work on. We do go through a lot of the burner floors, which is the very thin piece of sheet metal below the burners. There is actually a small groove behind the collector box on the backplate of the HX that drains the condensate from the flue gasses- hence the rust on the left side which eventually rots out the burner floor. Not a very good design, but oh well. One would think the burner floor would be thicker but no. The stainless steel tubes in the HX are very robust, but the back plate is what rusts out or cracks around the tubes. I would agree the repair is not worth it, would recommend the unit be replaced too. Rheem does have their issues, but everyone does now. Not one manufacturer is immune to the problems. Good video though. On a side note, those load switches are quite a racket for the electric companies.
![[UNCUT] The Loyal Pin ปิ่นภักดิ์ EP.6 (2/4)](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/GgeGQOP10RQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I work for a Rheem dealer, and I find them to be very easy to work on. We do go through a lot of the burner floors, which is the very thin piece of sheet metal below the burners. There is actually a small groove behind the collector box on the backplate of the HX that drains the condensate from the flue gasses- hence the rust on the left side which eventually rots out the burner floor. Not a very good design, but oh well. One would think the burner floor would be thicker but no. The stainless steel tubes in the HX are very robust, but the back plate is what rusts out or cracks around the tubes. I would agree the repair is not worth it, would recommend the unit be replaced too. Rheem does have their issues, but everyone does now. Not one manufacturer is immune to the problems. Good video though. On a side note, those load switches are quite a racket for the electric companies.
Is that a TP-XXL you're using, with the side meter pockets?
Thy do where I live mo.