Good info. Mine are on order. Just barely ridable weather up here in Vermont. I went with the Flatland Racing skid plate ( I sprayed 7 layers of Hurculiner on the inside for noise considerations) The polished aluminum matches well with the silver parts along the bottom of the bike. The little "wings" on the sides of the plate will also serve to protect lower plastics as well vs some of the more streamlined options out there right now.
@@HighDesertHills I've made some strap points on my bicycle with a bit of inner tube to protect the frame and hose clamps. Can't imagine it'd be any less secure on the crash bars, especially if it's lighter gear
hi, did you have a chance to test it in reality ? ;-) I am still concerned about the top mounting point and the affect on lamp rack (however I saw the test video, but in real life there are stone, trees etc ;-) ).
I have spilled the bike since putting these on, and they’ve done their job great. That said, I haven’t had any “hard” spills into the real life things you mentioned like sones, trees, etc. I have seen pictures of a bike that I guy crashed pretty hard at speed, and his crash bars did their job. All of his broken bits were on other parts of the bike.
Ok, so I got my bars ,but, Somethings weird. I'm in the US (Vermont) my Rally was bought in the US (I assume your in the US as well) Did you find that the flange nuts and the the longer bolts that hold the very front of the crash bars to the fairing ( up near the headlight) are not the correct thread. I needed to buy new flange bolts to fit on long bolts that went through engine frame (the bolts went through completely the opposite direction than in Outback's online installation video) and the provided bolts for the front fairing are a totally different thread and pitch than the bike has on it from the factory (female part that receives the bolt). Had to special order bolts and this project will end up taking over a week plus $20 for the ups and bolts. You said you were done in under a half hour. Did all your parts fit right out of the box? Just curious. Thank you.
I've heard several people complain about the factory nuts on the long bolts provided by Outback. For me, it definitely wasn't a super easy spin-on fit. But I just pushed through it a bit and it got easier. Probably not the best thing to do, but I figured the worst case was that I would have to do what you're doing - find some different bolts and nuts. My hunch is that they got a bad batch of those long bolts that are just a hair off, so you have to muscle the nut a bit more than you should. Good luck with the project, and sorry that it turned into a longer ordeal than you anticipated.
Oh, my bad - I should have read your first comment more carefully. I just assumed I knew what you were talking about, because of other threads I've read from people who have had problems with a different bolt. I didn't have any issues at all with those long bolts that that go through the fairings by the headlight. Out of curiosity, did you try to contact them at all to see if they can make it right? I've heard from others that they've gotten replacement hardware sent out when they had a bad fit.
@@HighDesertHills so glad I asked you. I went back and tried those bolts again and they are correct. I just buggered up the threads a bit. Ill retap and they should be fine. You saved me $20. If you come up this way I owe you a sandwich! Thanks again.
Check out DaBinChe, he installed both upper and lower crash bars to his rally, and it looks great, and the mods that he had to make were pretty impressive... I personally wouldn’t want to add that much weight to my bike, but it is the most protection that you can get. I think the outback bars look flipping cool as you can get. And I think Outback did a brilliant job on advertising them. I actually tried to purchase some about a month ago, but they were out of stock. However, in my personal opinion, and for my needs, I think I’ve come to the realization that the lower crash bars are going to suit me best over the upper ones, so I’m going with the SRC crashbar/skid plate combo... I plan on doing mostly trail riding (TAT). If I “crash”, I hope that it will be at low speed due to something like uneven footing, or falling over in a rut, or hopping over a log or bolder, and if the bike starts to go down, I fear that the big bulging part of the fairing at the bottom is going to come in contact with whatever is right below me, ie rut, bolder, log, etc... Of course this is just my personal opinion, and only time and practice will tell, but I feel like the upper bars will save more of the upper fairings and the parts behind them, in a slightly higher end speed “crash”. Because at lower speeds, when the bike just falls over, I’ve already seen it happen countless times where the handlebars/hand guards soak up most of the impact, and the upper fairings turn out unharmed. And the worst damage to the 300 Rally that I’ve seen on line so far was done by MOTORMIGO. I didn’t get to see the actual “crash”, I don’t think he caught it on camera, but that lower fairing appeared to be completely destroyed. I also believe this is why we’re seeing some Rally owners cut the lower fairings off, its much cheaper than buying new ones once they’re damaged.
I’ll definitely check out DaBibChe, thanks! And yeah, I think deciding between the upper and lower versions depends a lot on individual riding style and terrain. And a bit of blind luck - guessing how you’re going to crash 😂 Let me know how you like the SRC guard/skid plate. It looks like a quality product.
@@HighDesertHills will do. But like a lot of products right now, it’s on back order, so it might be a while... I’m putting together my seat concepts seat as we speak. I waited about 2 months for this to come in...
@@HighDesertHills thanks! I’ll tell you now, if you decide to get one, either spend the extra $100 to get the complete seat, Or, be sure and have a pneumatic staple gun to install the new cover. I got most of it together, but there are just a couple spots that are really hard to get into with a regular staple gun, and I don’t have any small staples for my air stapler, so I’ll have to finish this tomorrow. It looks pretty good, and the foam that they use is definitely a higher quality. Can’t wait to try it out.
Yeah, I do have a pneumatic stapler that I bought specifically to put a new seat cover on my XT225. After a lot of struggling, it came out looking pretty good, but if I do a seat on the Rally, I think I’d rather pay the extra money to have the pros do it.
Your answers was beyond my actual questions ! Thanks a lot
Haha - Just me overthinking everything
Good info. Mine are on order. Just barely ridable weather up here in Vermont. I went with the Flatland Racing skid plate ( I sprayed 7 layers of Hurculiner on the inside for noise considerations) The polished aluminum matches well with the silver parts along the bottom of the bike. The little "wings" on the sides of the plate will also serve to protect lower plastics as well vs some of the more streamlined options out there right now.
Yeah, I like the extra protection of the wings on the Flatland plates. Great idea using the spray liner for noise!
Greetings
As always fantastic video 🇺🇸🍾🎉🇺🇸
Keep producing more videos.
Thanks Rosario!
It's been really helpful, thanks;
You bet! Glad it was useful. I appreciate the feedback.
Ha ha great intro. Crash bars look good. 👍
Thanks! Hope they never get used :)
Gestern bekommen! Solide Qualität zum fairen Preis! Ein Muss wenn man ins Gelände damit will
Congrats!
well done - Thank you
Thanks! These bars have saved my bike a few times now.
@@HighDesertHills
Only wish they made them for my 250 Rally
Had to buy the competition
@@dugdug007 That’s a shame. Seems a little short sighted on their part. A lot of 250L riders out there.
yeah i think Itchy Boots has these and she has no problems traveling the world so you should be fine.
Haha, yeah. Exploring the trails around my house isn’t quite as intense as driving from South America to Alaska 😂
Gee some type of pannier bags could attach to those crash bars up front, pity they didnt add some strap tabs.
That's a cool idea. If I ever need a bit more packing space, I may try to jury rig something there.
@@HighDesertHills I've made some strap points on my bicycle with a bit of inner tube to protect the frame and hose clamps. Can't imagine it'd be any less secure on the crash bars, especially if it's lighter gear
hi, did you have a chance to test it in reality ? ;-) I am still concerned about the top mounting point and the affect on lamp rack (however I saw the test video, but in real life there are stone, trees etc ;-) ).
I have spilled the bike since putting these on, and they’ve done their job great. That said, I haven’t had any “hard” spills into the real life things you mentioned like sones, trees, etc. I have seen pictures of a bike that I guy crashed pretty hard at speed, and his crash bars did their job. All of his broken bits were on other parts of the bike.
@@HighDesertHills thanks. Just have ordered mine ;-)
Ok, so I got my bars ,but, Somethings weird. I'm in the US (Vermont) my Rally was bought in the US (I assume your in the US as well) Did you find that the flange nuts and the the longer bolts that hold the very front of the crash bars to the fairing ( up near the headlight) are not the correct thread. I needed to buy new flange bolts to fit on long bolts that went through engine frame (the bolts went through completely the opposite direction than in Outback's online installation video) and the provided bolts for the front fairing are a totally different thread and pitch than the bike has on it from the factory (female part that receives the bolt). Had to special order bolts and this project will end up taking over a week plus $20 for the ups and bolts. You said you were done in under a half hour. Did all your parts fit right out of the box? Just curious. Thank you.
I've heard several people complain about the factory nuts on the long bolts provided by Outback. For me, it definitely wasn't a super easy spin-on fit. But I just pushed through it a bit and it got easier. Probably not the best thing to do, but I figured the worst case was that I would have to do what you're doing - find some different bolts and nuts. My hunch is that they got a bad batch of those long bolts that are just a hair off, so you have to muscle the nut a bit more than you should. Good luck with the project, and sorry that it turned into a longer ordeal than you anticipated.
@@HighDesertHills but you were able to muscle those fairing bolts into the side of the bike to hold the very upper front of the crash bars in place?
Oh, my bad - I should have read your first comment more carefully. I just assumed I knew what you were talking about, because of other threads I've read from people who have had problems with a different bolt. I didn't have any issues at all with those long bolts that that go through the fairings by the headlight. Out of curiosity, did you try to contact them at all to see if they can make it right? I've heard from others that they've gotten replacement hardware sent out when they had a bad fit.
@@HighDesertHills ok, cool. Thank you.
@@HighDesertHills so glad I asked you. I went back and tried those bolts again and they are correct. I just buggered up the threads a bit. Ill retap and they should be fine. You saved me $20. If you come up this way I owe you a sandwich! Thanks again.
Check out DaBinChe, he installed both upper and lower crash bars to his rally, and it looks great, and the mods that he had to make were pretty impressive... I personally wouldn’t want to add that much weight to my bike, but it is the most protection that you can get. I think the outback bars look flipping cool as you can get. And I think Outback did a brilliant job on advertising them. I actually tried to purchase some about a month ago, but they were out of stock.
However, in my personal opinion, and for my needs, I think I’ve come to the realization that the lower crash bars are going to suit me best over the upper ones, so I’m going with the SRC crashbar/skid plate combo... I plan on doing mostly trail riding (TAT). If I “crash”, I hope that it will be at low speed due to something like uneven footing, or falling over in a rut, or hopping over a log or bolder, and if the bike starts to go down, I fear that the big bulging part of the fairing at the bottom is going to come in contact with whatever is right below me, ie rut, bolder, log, etc...
Of course this is just my personal opinion, and only time and practice will tell, but I feel like the upper bars will save more of the upper fairings and the parts behind them, in a slightly higher end speed “crash”. Because at lower speeds, when the bike just falls over, I’ve already seen it happen countless times where the handlebars/hand guards soak up most of the impact, and the upper fairings turn out unharmed. And the worst damage to the 300 Rally that I’ve seen on line so far was done by MOTORMIGO. I didn’t get to see the actual “crash”, I don’t think he caught it on camera, but that lower fairing appeared to be completely destroyed. I also believe this is why we’re seeing some Rally owners cut the lower fairings off, its much cheaper than buying new ones once they’re damaged.
I’ll definitely check out DaBibChe, thanks! And yeah, I think deciding between the upper and lower versions depends a lot on individual riding style and terrain. And a bit of blind luck - guessing how you’re going to crash 😂
Let me know how you like the SRC guard/skid plate. It looks like a quality product.
@@HighDesertHills will do. But like a lot of products right now, it’s on back order, so it might be a while... I’m putting together my seat concepts seat as we speak. I waited about 2 months for this to come in...
Good luck with the seat!
@@HighDesertHills thanks! I’ll tell you now, if you decide to get one, either spend the extra $100 to get the complete seat, Or, be sure and have a pneumatic staple gun to install the new cover. I got most of it together, but there are just a couple spots that are really hard to get into with a regular staple gun, and I don’t have any small staples for my air stapler, so I’ll have to finish this tomorrow. It looks pretty good, and the foam that they use is definitely a higher quality. Can’t wait to try it out.
Yeah, I do have a pneumatic stapler that I bought specifically to put a new seat cover on my XT225. After a lot of struggling, it came out looking pretty good, but if I do a seat on the Rally, I think I’d rather pay the extra money to have the pros do it.
More important, what tail bag this is?
It's the Nelson Rigg Commuter Sport bag. I've been really liking it. th-cam.com/video/dBQO_Qg5VjA/w-d-xo.html
Anyone try these with a src moto crashbar+skidplate?
This guy did both these and the SRC crashbars. th-cam.com/video/d4m-oZDhBYs/w-d-xo.html&si=EnSIkaIECMiOmarE
@@HighDesertHills Hilarious, I'm subscribed to him already! I appreciate the link though.
Haha. Small world 🙂
He used Motoskill crash bars. I just order a src moto. I think the only issue will be the length of the case bolts.