I finally mounted the PC board on the right side of the Enderwire X carriage with some Velcro tape. It fit's fine, the flex cable is quite long enough. I'm using the E-extruder end stop port (filament run out) on my SB2040, and I put the filament runout switch on the former HV probe port (only using the gpio pin and gnd). I don't need the filament sensor now, it's to future proof the Galileo2 extruder for possible future ERCF. After installing the G2E I had to add one link to my drag chain as the mounting position for the chain on the G2E was different from the Bowden dummy extruder for the SB. Now to configure everything! Just noticed you also have the G2E on the printer in this video.
1:39:38 I see the site foreman is checking the work. I am surprised E3D would not make it 24v compatible, given how many toolhead boards pump 24v down the probe. I know I ordered a Tap dual voltage board for that reason. But it was good to see this on this stream VOD so now I know that if I ever do this it will be time to change my printer to sensorless and hijack the endstop on the Nighthawk for PZ.
What do you know about the 60C max temperature limitation? Do you know if that's a limitation on the piezo cell itself, or on the associated electronics? Do you know if that specified maximum must be observed *only* at the time of probing, or must print temperatures never exceed 60C?
Hi Steve I sent you an email as I couldn't post a comment. It now seems OK so here it is again Just want to thank you for your video on the Revo PZ. I couldn’t watch the live stream but have watched the recording I received my PZ last week but the timing was bad as I came away on holiday the following day. However, watching your video means I can get it running very soon after I return home. I have a couple of questions The instructions on the E3D website include some configuration lines that need to go in printer.config. I didnt see you put those in. Did I miss it? The board configurations accessed via the push button - were those the default settings from E3D or had you altered them previously? Once again - thanks for you time and efforts on this. Your smoking board was a classic TH-cam moment and very brave of you not to have edited it out! I have made a small donation to you to help you save for a new board 😆 All the best from rainy UK Peter
Thanks! Got your email and replied :) Short answers for everyone, first the piezo sensor is very sensitive, it is a good idea to be familiar with the suggestions from E3D to minimize interference/vibrations during probing moves. Second, since I had to finish the stream with a beta unit with fewer pre-configured options are different, but I'm still just using the pre-configured sensitivity values.
Just saw the announcement for this a few days ago, and it's out of stock EVERYWHERE! I assume that only alpha/beta testers have gotten any of these. I've posted "update me" requests at all the usual vendors (KB3D, Filastruder, West, etc), maybe I might be able to get one by Thanksgiving? I would want to use this on my Enderwire. The bed on the Ender conversion seems stiff enough, the dual rails probably help. I have a CANbus tool head board. Might need to put a 3 wire regulator somewhere to step down the 24V, but I might be able to steal 3.3v from the toolhead with a soldered flylead. Are there any modified STLs for the tool head for Stealthburner to mount the PV board? Think maybe I could design a mount that slides in place of the prox sensor, if the board doesn't mind being close to heated bed. Glad to hear you've got some new feline friends. Does Felix have a bag of tricks?
The general public had quite a bit of availability, they just sold fast. E3D published the Stealthburner carriage I modeled on printables. it works well and is WAY easier to install than what I tried on stream.
@@SteveBuilds I wondered WHY the bare PZ disc even exists. It might be adaptable onto a slot in mount on a V6 style hotend, but a side screw mount (Creality) style hot end would probably NOT play well.
Hi Steve. How the hell did you make a connector cable from the PZ board to the toolhead board? I have got some ST SHR-08V-S-B connectors but they are so small they are impossible to make by hand. E3D really ought to provide a 3 wire cable with a fitted plug. I have thought about cutting the supplied 8 wire cable but that would render it useless for reprogramming. I have emailed E3D but had no reply. Any useful tips gratefully received Peter
I purchased a pigtail kit off Amazon. E3D recommends modifying the existing cable. I wouldn't be surprised if they started offering just the cable at some point. Honestly, for the vast majority of cases you're not going to need to use anything other than the built in settings, not much need to program it.
@@SteveBuilds Thanks. I've found it on Amazon UK and ordered it. I also found similar on eBay that I have ordered earlier. I made a modification to the XOL EBB36 mount to mount the PZ board.
Omfg. This is so eerie. My wife was assembling this last night next to me and watching this now is complete déjà vu. >This is such a cool purple, pity it's never visible. > I can't decide if I could cut the ribbon cable > Oh see this is a different connector. > I smell smoke what the fuck did I do 😢😢😢
Thanks
I finally mounted the PC board on the right side of the Enderwire X carriage with some Velcro tape. It fit's fine, the flex cable is quite long enough. I'm using the E-extruder end stop port (filament run out) on my SB2040, and I put the filament runout switch on the former HV probe port (only using the gpio pin and gnd). I don't need the filament sensor now, it's to future proof the Galileo2 extruder for possible future ERCF. After installing the G2E I had to add one link to my drag chain as the mounting position for the chain on the G2E was different from the Bowden dummy extruder for the SB. Now to configure everything!
Just noticed you also have the G2E on the printer in this video.
Had to catch this on the VOD, sorry I missed the live. Super interested
1:39:38 I see the site foreman is checking the work.
I am surprised E3D would not make it 24v compatible, given how many toolhead boards pump 24v down the probe. I know I ordered a Tap dual voltage board for that reason.
But it was good to see this on this stream VOD so now I know that if I ever do this it will be time to change my printer to sensorless and hijack the endstop on the Nighthawk for PZ.
I don't know what it would take to make it 24v compatible so I won't comment on that, but I really should have known better anyway :)
Another idea for a mount that could be more universal is as a bracket on the cable chain mount to the Stealthburner.
The flex cable is only so long, not sure it would reach or be easy to assemble there.
What do you know about the 60C max temperature limitation? Do you know if that's a limitation on the piezo cell itself, or on the associated electronics? Do you know if that specified maximum must be observed *only* at the time of probing, or must print temperatures never exceed 60C?
They've updated the guidelines to 75C.
@@SteveBuilds any idea whether that's the absolute max temperature, or just the max temperature at time of probing?
E3D support confirmed that 75C max is the max standby (do not exceed) temperature , and it is not probing max temperature.
Steve, can you give a link to the Amazon kit with the connector?
This is the kit I ordered a.co/d/48sfatM
Have you used this for a while now. Would you recommend over the tap ?
I am partial to it. I've been using it for quite a while.
Is the stl available for the Vitalii mount you used?
I really don't like how fiddly it is to mount. I'm working on something different now. Will post on my discord when done.
Hi Steve
I sent you an email as I couldn't post a comment. It now seems OK so here it is again
Just want to thank you for your video on the Revo PZ. I couldn’t watch the live stream but have watched the recording
I received my PZ last week but the timing was bad as I came away on holiday the following day. However, watching your video means I can get it running very soon after I return home.
I have a couple of questions
The instructions on the E3D website include some configuration lines that need to go in printer.config. I didnt see you put those in. Did I miss it?
The board configurations accessed via the push button - were those the default settings from E3D or had you altered them previously?
Once again - thanks for you time and efforts on this. Your smoking board was a classic TH-cam moment and very brave of you not to have edited it out!
I have made a small donation to you to help you save for a new board 😆
All the best from rainy UK
Peter
Thanks! Got your email and replied :) Short answers for everyone, first the piezo sensor is very sensitive, it is a good idea to be familiar with the suggestions from E3D to minimize interference/vibrations during probing moves. Second, since I had to finish the stream with a beta unit with fewer pre-configured options are different, but I'm still just using the pre-configured sensitivity values.
Just saw the announcement for this a few days ago, and it's out of stock EVERYWHERE! I assume that only alpha/beta testers have gotten any of these. I've posted "update me" requests at all the usual vendors (KB3D, Filastruder, West, etc), maybe I might be able to get one by Thanksgiving?
I would want to use this on my Enderwire. The bed on the Ender conversion seems stiff enough, the dual rails probably help. I have a CANbus tool head board. Might need to put a 3 wire regulator somewhere to step down the 24V, but I might be able to steal 3.3v from the toolhead with a soldered flylead. Are there any modified STLs for the tool head for Stealthburner to mount the PV board?
Think maybe I could design a mount that slides in place of the prox sensor, if the board doesn't mind being close to heated bed.
Glad to hear you've got some new feline friends. Does Felix have a bag of tricks?
The general public had quite a bit of availability, they just sold fast. E3D published the Stealthburner carriage I modeled on printables. it works well and is WAY easier to install than what I tried on stream.
@@SteveBuilds Will that fit on Enderwire?
Would you be willing to test the probe on printhead setup that doesnt use the voron heatsink?
Although they make a PZ setup with just a disc intended to be adapted to other applications, I do not have one.
@@SteveBuilds I wondered WHY the bare PZ disc even exists. It might be adaptable onto a slot in mount on a V6 style hotend, but a side screw mount (Creality) style hot end would probably NOT play well.
Can we expect a modified Stealthburner 2 Piece Toolhead PCB thant allows this pcb to be added on ?
Who knows, nothing in the works that I know of though.
Hi Steve. How the hell did you make a connector cable from the PZ board to the toolhead board? I have got some ST SHR-08V-S-B connectors but they are so small they are impossible to make by hand. E3D really ought to provide a 3 wire cable with a fitted plug. I have thought about cutting the supplied 8 wire cable but that would render it useless for reprogramming. I have emailed E3D but had no reply. Any useful tips gratefully received Peter
I purchased a pigtail kit off Amazon. E3D recommends modifying the existing cable. I wouldn't be surprised if they started offering just the cable at some point. Honestly, for the vast majority of cases you're not going to need to use anything other than the built in settings, not much need to program it.
@@SteveBuilds Ive got a tiny JST pigtail kit but it was still too big to fit the connector. You dont have a link to the one you used do you? Peter
These should do it. a.co/d/eudYYdN
@@SteveBuilds Thanks. I've found it on Amazon UK and ordered it. I also found similar on eBay that I have ordered earlier. I made a modification to the XOL EBB36 mount to mount the PZ board.
Omfg. This is so eerie. My wife was assembling this last night next to me and watching this now is complete déjà vu.
>This is such a cool purple, pity it's never visible.
> I can't decide if I could cut the ribbon cable
> Oh see this is a different connector.
> I smell smoke what the fuck did I do
😢😢😢
Uh oh, I hope you didn't also give it an extra 19v.
@@SteveBuilds it didn't seem to appreciate the extra power, somehow
ouch :(
... THREE HOURS?!
The kitties made it smoke real bad :( you sure did pop it and let that smoke out, mr photonicinduction ;)
Such a bad mistake. I should have known better.