You should have one about the extras that you will need to make a boat. Those would be things like a filament dryer, dry boxes, filament storage systems, printer maintenance supplies, ventilation equipment(especially for resin), post-processing supplies, and, most importantly, the filament (or resin).
11:39 not only do you want an enclosed machine. but you really do want an actively heated chamber. i have both my Frankenstein Ender 3 Max with a 400W chamber heater, aswell as a Bambulab P1S. for strenth nothing beats the Ender at 70-80C ambient when printing ABS. its a total gamechanger i have printed parts in abs that use allmost the full E3M volume and they are strong, glossy and flat. i am in the making of an active chamber heater for the bambu
It's also worth noting the patent expiring to even allow this happened very recently, so printers that come with it factory are very new. Designs are still sold that predate this that make it necessary to add your own heater.
If I were to just recommend Jo Blow a printer, it would be an A1 mini or a P1S depending on their budget. The new Core One looks like it could be a good contender vs an X1x at that end of the price range. If they actually know/care about open source vs proprietary systems, then the recommendation would be more nuanced.
Great video! I have a voron trident and an enclosed IDEX. I’m waiting for prusa to release their gen 2 XL and then I think I’ll be happy with my setup.
Excellent video. Great introduction to the world of first printers. You dont cover the worst first printer: the one given to you by someone who got a better one :-)
sv08 is a pretty kick ass printer. fast large. occasional issues (but at that price) and there is work on a multi tool head add on in the community, I suspect sovol will eventually add a tool changer setup as a kit (well here's hoping)
Yeah the only thing that i dont like about it is the probe, mine keeps drifting so i have to realibrate it for pretty much every print even if i use PLA over and over again.
I got a kickstarter print in 2014. rigidbot big. it collected dust for 10 years and only started getting into 3d printing this year. the extruder was garbage and could not make a good print. Got a smart orbiter v3 and install it, klipper, BIQU micro, flex plate and it's pretty good now. Now I want to build a Voron 2.4 :)
Printing things is annoying. Messing with hardware is where it's at. I'm at a point in my 3d printer collection that I want high quality. Double shear everything, exact belt paths, hardware used properly. But I can't afford a pantheon lmao.
I am ready to buy my 2nd printer and got really excited at the thought of the core one, but the size is throwing me off... it's 2024, why is a 300x300x300 not an option?
I started with an ender3 knock-off just to learn, built my switchwire and since then, simply can´t justify spending money on anything else... SW is easy to build, mantain, kinda cheap and with the proper upgrades can do basically whatever most people need.. I have the feeling I would love a v2.4 or even an SV08, but following the advice of buy what you need, not what you want, i´m just keeping my SW until it doesn´t make sense anymore...
Hey guys, bit of a strange question... I can buy a 3d printer for our department at a university, but I'm not sure if the very security aware IT department is letting it connect to the WLAN. So here comes my question: Is it possible to run a Bambu P1S without internet connection? Or is it possible to use my phone as a hotspot to run it, is it possible to connect the printer to the hotspot and start the print and then disconnect it (because I have to go home...)? :) Thanks for your expertise!
you CAN run it stand alone loading files off an SD card, but none of the connected features like APP or the ability to update the FW work without a connection to the internet or LAN
if thats for you, then go for it, but ive also seen many comments over my years doing this of people who did the same thing and quit the hobby due to the frustation of constantly dealing with a sub part, barely functional printer. to each their own
Those kinda died off simply for the fact they were annoying as heck to work with Constaint oozing/dribble issues with the non-active hotend and if the offset wasnt perfect you would have it also dragging all over your prints as well
Nero, brother I need some guidance and I think you're the only person who might have info on my question. Someone told me you run or once ran a "Xol-Metrix" cutter on a Lancer extruder setup. I own a Magneto X which uses the Lancer and I believe is via an orbiter mount and i've been looking into possibly adding a cutter if it's possible and you're the only person who has been mentioned to potentially have done this. Any chance I can message you on discord or something and chew your ear a little bit to see if this is at all possible?
Jup, mostly agree. Except *insert manufacturer* absolutely, objectively is the best printer manufacturer, without ANY flaws and they don't have aggressive, missleading marketing, like ALL OTHER printer companies..... ... ..... 😂😂😂😂
Ok, I'm confused. I know nothing about 3d printing. I want to buy one. I've watched a ton of videos and one thing has me pretty much confused. I notice on some printers, there is the rectangle tower being built in the back left corner and on some videos there is none. What gives? is this just a thing with some printers and not on others? Seems like a giant waste of plastic.
For some printers, I think mainly Bambu Lab printers, they'll enable a Prime Tower when doing a timelapse, this is because it moves the toolhead out of the way to take a nice picture, and then before printing the next layer it has to prime the nozzle so it can print nicely. The prime tower is also used in multi colour/multi material 3d printing for the same reason, you need the nozzle to be primed and full of filament before starting the next layer or next colour/material to make sure you have consistent flow. These towers have to be as tall as you final colour/material change, which is why you'll see them so tall even when there's only one colour change right at the end of print.
Aww, no love for deltas? I still use my poor old Anycubic KLP for tall things, but one of the first things I did was to ditch the ATMEGA-powered mainboard for a Duet 2 Wifi.
Great advice good sir. Sidenote, in your room of misfit printers I noticed a K1 sitting there. I would love to take that off your hands at one of the next events we are both going to attend if you are driving in and if funds are required please let me know. Have a great day good sir.
There was way too much to cover in a single video, but is their any topics not covered here you would want me to cover in a future video?
You should have one about the extras that you will need to make a boat. Those would be things like a filament dryer, dry boxes, filament storage systems, printer maintenance supplies, ventilation equipment(especially for resin), post-processing supplies, and, most importantly, the filament (or resin).
Anet A8 = perfect house warmer. Just place it in your fireplace and hit "print"
you dont even need to put it in the fireplace! it will be its own fireplace!
Lmao right
I can't find the affiliate link for the printer with the wooden frame. I desperately want to get it. 🤪
Fair warning regarding the point of cutting corners on big printer. The SV08 cut *huge* corners on the bed. Be warned.
Superb video covering all the important check points. Follow up video on accessories and especially right to repair!
11:39 not only do you want an enclosed machine. but you really do want an actively heated chamber. i have both my Frankenstein Ender 3 Max with a 400W chamber heater, aswell as a Bambulab P1S. for strenth nothing beats the Ender at 70-80C ambient when printing ABS. its a total gamechanger i have printed parts in abs that use allmost the full E3M volume and they are strong, glossy and flat. i am in the making of an active chamber heater for the bambu
It's also worth noting the patent expiring to even allow this happened very recently, so printers that come with it factory are very new. Designs are still sold that predate this that make it necessary to add your own heater.
I can't believe you would even suggest things are tribal around here!!! You're off the team!
I'm waiting for the Prusa Core One. :D
My first printer was the Anet A8 and it's still working lol (but only as the 6th choice for printing)
If I were to just recommend Jo Blow a printer, it would be an A1 mini or a P1S depending on their budget. The new Core One looks like it could be a good contender vs an X1x at that end of the price range. If they actually know/care about open source vs proprietary systems, then the recommendation would be more nuanced.
Great video! I have a voron trident and an enclosed IDEX. I’m waiting for prusa to release their gen 2 XL and then I think I’ll be happy with my setup.
Turtle box?
TF
Slow printer like an Ender v1
Buy a bunch of bolts and stuff and build your own 👍
Love the retro tv filter
Good video something to suggest is nozzle type and how hard it is to replace one
Excellent video. Great introduction to the world of first printers. You dont cover the worst first printer: the one given to you by someone who got a better one :-)
I love to find a universal multi filament project. I basically print in what ever cheap pla i can find when i got funds on amazon..
sv08 is a pretty kick ass printer. fast large. occasional issues (but at that price) and there is work on a multi tool head add on in the community, I suspect sovol will eventually add a tool changer setup as a kit (well here's hoping)
Yeah the only thing that i dont like about it is the probe, mine keeps drifting so i have to realibrate it for pretty much every print even if i use PLA over and over again.
@@DasRauchendeGnu there will probably be a mod for better calibration at some point (maybe its already out there?)
A nice Thursday morning change of pace.
I got a kickstarter print in 2014. rigidbot big. it collected dust for 10 years and only started getting into 3d printing this year. the extruder was garbage and could not make a good print. Got a smart orbiter v3 and install it, klipper, BIQU micro, flex plate and it's pretty good now. Now I want to build a Voron 2.4 :)
Printing things is annoying. Messing with hardware is where it's at. I'm at a point in my 3d printer collection that I want high quality. Double shear everything, exact belt paths, hardware used properly. But I can't afford a pantheon lmao.
I am ready to buy my 2nd printer and got really excited at the thought of the core one, but the size is throwing me off... it's 2024, why is a 300x300x300 not an option?
It needs to do the dishes and Make me a SAMMICH! lol
I just got a Neptune 4 plus because all 3 of my bambus just work so time to tinker ;) great vid!
I started with an ender3 knock-off just to learn, built my switchwire and since then, simply can´t justify spending money on anything else... SW is easy to build, mantain, kinda cheap and with the proper upgrades can do basically whatever most people need.. I have the feeling I would love a v2.4 or even an SV08, but following the advice of buy what you need, not what you want, i´m just keeping my SW until it doesn´t make sense anymore...
same here, switchwire ftw!
@@thijstriemstra I really love this printer... The only problem is that I already spent much morebon upgrades than a corexy cost
@ i got the ender 3 for free, 20$ skr pico, few rails.. learnt so much though
Hey guys, bit of a strange question... I can buy a 3d printer for our department at a university, but I'm not sure if the very security aware IT department is letting it connect to the WLAN. So here comes my question: Is it possible to run a Bambu P1S without internet connection? Or is it possible to use my phone as a hotspot to run it, is it possible to connect the printer to the hotspot and start the print and then disconnect it (because I have to go home...)? :) Thanks for your expertise!
you CAN run it stand alone loading files off an SD card, but none of the connected features like APP or the ability to update the FW work without a connection to the internet or LAN
I did not expect a wubby reference in my 3D printing video 😂
yeah , still don't see the point in investing more han into an old ender 3 and gradually print mods to it
if thats for you, then go for it, but ive also seen many comments over my years doing this of people who did the same thing and quit the hobby due to the frustation of constantly dealing with a sub part, barely functional printer.
to each their own
Multimaterial - you talk about separate hotends, idex - what about two hotend combined in one? Its really dying now?
Those kinda died off simply for the fact they were annoying as heck to work with
Constaint oozing/dribble issues with the non-active hotend and if the offset wasnt perfect you would have it also dragging all over your prints as well
That intro had serious LoyalMoses vibes
I love my voron 2.4!!
Nero, brother I need some guidance and I think you're the only person who might have info on my question.
Someone told me you run or once ran a "Xol-Metrix" cutter on a Lancer extruder setup. I own a Magneto X which uses the Lancer and I believe is via an orbiter mount and i've been looking into possibly adding a cutter if it's possible and you're the only person who has been mentioned to potentially have done this. Any chance I can message you on discord or something and chew your ear a little bit to see if this is at all possible?
Jup, mostly agree. Except *insert manufacturer* absolutely, objectively is the best printer manufacturer, without ANY flaws and they don't have aggressive, missleading marketing, like ALL OTHER printer companies.....
...
.....
😂😂😂😂
Audio is out of sync at 0:38
What the hell is a Hueforge?
The answer is a quick google search away!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
or you could click this link shop.thehueforge.com/
Gotta be a voron and nothing else right?
P.s I haven't started watching yet 😂
disregard voron, return to hypercube
@CanuckCreator dang it 😂
Ok, I'm confused. I know nothing about 3d printing. I want to buy one. I've watched a ton of videos and one thing has me pretty much confused. I notice on some printers, there is the rectangle tower being built in the back left corner and on some videos there is none. What gives? is this just a thing with some printers and not on others? Seems like a giant waste of plastic.
For some printers, I think mainly Bambu Lab printers, they'll enable a Prime Tower when doing a timelapse, this is because it moves the toolhead out of the way to take a nice picture, and then before printing the next layer it has to prime the nozzle so it can print nicely. The prime tower is also used in multi colour/multi material 3d printing for the same reason, you need the nozzle to be primed and full of filament before starting the next layer or next colour/material to make sure you have consistent flow. These towers have to be as tall as you final colour/material change, which is why you'll see them so tall even when there's only one colour change right at the end of print.
@@Antstar12 thank you
Aww, no love for deltas? I still use my poor old Anycubic KLP for tall things, but one of the first things I did was to ditch the ATMEGA-powered mainboard for a Duet 2 Wifi.
this videos really puts into perspective just how many printers Taylor has, I mean damn son. lol
Great advice good sir. Sidenote, in your room of misfit printers I noticed a K1 sitting there. I would love to take that off your hands at one of the next events we are both going to attend if you are driving in and if funds are required please let me know. Have a great day good sir.
Bigger worse at first learn to lvl you bed.