You, sir, are an exemplary explainer. I’ve been putting off this task for five weeks. I just watched this. Then I clicked subscribe. (I only have about 30 subscriptions...). Respect.
This video cleared a lot of concerns for me. My only other concern is, I've seen two wire lights used as marker and turn signal. How are they able to do that?
I have noticed that on the Prius they use LED bulbs for the stop, backup and running lights. However the turn signal lamp is a standard incandescent. I'm surprised that no one has come out with a automotive flasher module that is no current driven.
latovaas There are several type of LED flasher modules available. However different cars use different types of flasher modules. Its actually possible to modify most factory flasher modules so that you don't need to use resistors. I have done this before and it works well. However on some vehicles it is very difficult to access the flasher module.
Thanks for the video! How did you determine to use a 50w resistor for the 20w halogen bulb replacement? I'm intending to add a resistor to an LED reverse bulb setup and wondering what size resistor I should buy.
The "50w" Resistor rating represents the maximum power level the resistor can dissipate. It rated for up to 50W of power dissipation. For example, for a 12V system with 6Ohm resistor, the current flow is 12V/6Ohms = 2Amps. The power dissipated by the resistor is 2 Amps * 12 Volts = 24W. Now 24W
Could you help me pls? I bought a led tail light with intergrated turn signals for my Kawasaki er6n 2007 and I have to buy load resistors. 2 resistors: 25W 8Ω 12V each, wouldn't be right? I have seen photos with similar tail lights which packets include a pair of resistors, 20W 5Ω 12V each. What should I do???
i did it step by step just like the video said. made sure i didn't mess anything up. and now none of my turn signals work. my hazards dont work its not making any kind of sounds when i put turn signal on. if anyone knows why or how that could've happened i would really appreciate it.
I need advice on LED swap. I did my rear stop, turn, tail (all in one) on my 95 f150. I don't have hyper glass and they work fine without the resistors. But my question is, the lights seem dim, do I need to install the resistors to make the LEDs brighter? :)
i have a question....I want led bulbs 3157 in my tail lights in my trailblazer. so I put some in the top which is the stop/parking light. when I put the bulb in one way the brake light works but the parking doesn't when I take the bulb out and turn it over the parking light work but the brake light wont. they wont work at the same time...would a resistor fix my problem or is it something that just wont work
It sounds like you might have 3156 bulbs. Or, sometimes vehicles use 3157CK style bulbs which look similar to 3157 bulbs but are wired differently. 3156 bulbs have only one metal contact on each side of the bulb. 3157 should have 2 contacts.
I have the exact same load resistor you show connected to H7 yellow LED fog lights.. They are on 7 hours, will the load resistor blow out? Is there any higher quality load resistors other than the ones you show? thank...
Mike Ovanes Hello, it is very dangerous to use those yellow gold resistors in a fog light application. They are not designed to be run with constant current. Only periodic use for turn signals. They will get extremely hot if there is current running constantly though them as with a fog light application. I can provide you with higher quality resistors that can be run constantly. Please send us an email for more info: sales@enlightauto.com
Enlight Automotive - The best LED and HID lights for you vehicle Hey guys! Very informative and helpful video! I have a question though. My car is Honda Accord Type R 2001. I want to replace my stock turning signals with aftermarket LEDs. I am from Finland and i both from the local Motonet store aftermarket electronic LED flasher relay ( 12V MAX 30W)..,i found my stock flasher relay under the steering,and my question is,do i need to replace all the stock bulbs ( 6) with LEDs and the relay,or i need to do something else and what is that? I am not really good at electronics,but just basics. Thank you!
I have a Chevy Colorado.. now, I want to run LEDs for the running lights. Do I need load resistors for running lights? Secondly, my turning signals are part of the running lights meaning when I'm not using the directional function they stay just still and act as a running lights. Will my directionals have issues due to being a running light as well? thx
Normally you would not need resistors for the running lights. You must be very careful when using these type of resistors for running lights or anything that will be on for extended period of time. These gold resistors will not last very long under continuous current load without a very large heat sink, they will also get extremely hot. It sounds like the bulbs you have will be a dual-filament bulb where one filament acts as the running lights, and one for the turn signal function. In this case, you will only want to run resistors on the turn signal function.
im having this same problem. when parking lights are incorporated with the turn signals, relays are used to turn the parking lights off then back on which causes a heat issue with resistors being constantly powered.
I have the Same truck but with 2 gray wires and 2 black wires and 1 blue wire in the socket. I know the black ones are ground but I don't know which one is for the signal wire
So I decided to change to all leds to save on energy. Is there a way to hack the hyper flash to be able to work normally with out adding resistance and consuming near the same as halogen.
Yes, for some vehicles you can get an LED specific flasher module. Most vehicles have a flasher module often located under the dash which controls the blinking rate. Sometimes these units can be physically modified by reducing the size of an internal component. Or you can actually purchase LED flasher modules in different form factors to fit different cars. You will have to figure out if your vehicle has a removable flasher module, and If there is an LED specific module which will fit your vehicle.
Enlight Automotive I've searched everywhere, but I'm pretty positive that a '14 Nissan Juke RS doesn't have a flasher relay. Can you please confirm if this is correct? I think I'm stuck using load resistors..
No mention of how many watts/ohms of your resistor there pal? Vs watts/resistance of the old incandescent bulbs,?.... meh, eryone already left to install LEDs.
+joseph chop Just replace the turn signal flasher relay with one designed for use with LED's. Easier, Faster, and you don't have to cut into a perfectly good and sealed truck wiring harness.
Honestly, ftbs! "Too bright" is str8 BULLSHIT! ! They're just fkn with you! 😉 I was once pulled over in a small 😝 town because "license pl8 bulbs weren't bright ENOUGH"! Just don't be afraid to fight it! 😉🍻
I thought Scotch Lock connectors went of style years ago. Good avenue for salt and corrosion. Not a sealed connection. How much wattage does the resistor draw? Kind of defeats the purpose of a LED light. Why won't a electronic flasher work just as well.
Solder and heat shrink is indeed the more reliable way to do resistors. However many people do not have these tools or may not be comfortable with the process. Also, using heat shrink will require cutting the wires or de-pinning a socket to get the heat shrink around both wires which some people will not want to do or it adds complexity. LED's are often purchased for their visual appeal rather than power saving when it comes to automotive applications. LED turn signals have an instant-on instant-off function that some people enjoy over the pulsing glow of a incandescent bulb. There are other ways to make LED signals work without resistors, but this is one of the most common methods. Never did the video say this was the best way to install LED lights. If you look through the comments, we have discussed electronics flashers already.
These work, but the much better, cheaper and safer way to fix this situation is to just buy a new Turn Signal Relay that is rated for LED bulbs. Literally, that's it. You don't have to buy a resistor for every bulb, and install all of them, just pull out the old relay and plug in the new one. I drive a 1992 Toyota Pickup and replaced every single light to an LED, and had to either buy a bunch of these things, or just one LED relay.
I tried that, but couldn't find one specific to my 2004 1.8s Nissan sentra. I bought a generic one, and the blinkers work but only when the headlights are off. As soon as I turn on the headlights, the blinkers stay ON. But I can sort of get the blinkers to work my manually switching the blinker on and off. Any ideas ???
Thankyou for the detailed info. I went through several videos before finding yours. Yours was the only one to tell me why or why not to resistor-bridge the patking light wire. I know that you said it would overheat but why not if I can mount the resistor to metal so that it will not melt anything. Won't the reduced wattage extend the life of the leds?
I just purchased new headlight assembly’s with led turn signals on my 2013 Mercedes-Benz GLK 350. They came pre-wired with resistors but, they do not work. Any suggestions?? Tom
INCORRECT... AN LED IS A DIODE. This is the only real issue becausd power can only go one direction thru the bulb and the computer is sending power while checking current but ALSO looking for continuity to ground thru the bulb and if it cannot do all three you get a code and the on-off-on-off flicker. Even the older cars have hyper flash because the relay biases power thru the bulb and it cannot do this with an l.e.d or a circuit with a diode in it. Because though it can send power thru the bulb, the relay cannot see ground thru the bulb so after the first blink it goes rapid fishing away because relay has no ground to keep it on the "off" cycle thru a diode. therefore the computer nore the flash relay can use this as it is an incomplete circuit one way but is propper the other way. You need a sure circuit via a wire/ filament resistance and not a diode as the power thru the flasher goes both directions in each bulb, this is how it is designed to my understsnding... for instance you should be able to easily replicate this by puttung the factory bulb back in and put a diode in line on either wire and have the same issue hyper flash and code, because there needs to be a ground reference. I figured out I can use a 25 ohm 25watt resistor that has very little heat due to its low power consumption @14.7 volts due to its high resistance value and have no hyper flash or codes. And the resistor draws less power than the bulb that was in the socket to begin with and it was because I was nervous with the heat the normal resistors is get online so now I order specifically 30ohm resistors (25watt for turns and low power bulbs) and 30ohm 50watt resistors for headlights (though im sure the 25watt resistors would be sufficient on both applications without all the unnecessary heat and waste of power with over sized resistors and severely under rated resistance values. I would "never go less than 16ohms resistance on a bulb circuit to correct a fish issue or code issue. Just plain stupid and id say that's what a non educated person would do 6 ohm and 50 watts is just nuts The blinker isn't even 50 watts! My resistors draw less than 5amps and correct the issue safely! With less heat
Yep, there's not much point changing to LEDs if it's going to require a low value shunt resistor and end up drawing the same amount of current anyway. The higher resistance resistors are good idea. But unfortunately I think the kit manufactures will stick with the low resistance resistors, which are equivalent to the resistance of the incandescent bulb being replaced because it will ensure compatibility to any vehicle. The better option but dearer than using stunt resistors would be changing the blinker unit to an LED type, if the vehicle uses them.
It can sometimes be easier to just change the blinker relay to an LED compatible one, a new blinker can flash all bulb or all led or a mixture of both.
Even by doing so some vehicles still need at least the front directionals to utilize resistors on them. My 03' Tahoe for example. I have a LM487 led flasher I just installed and still have some problems with flashrate, led's in mirrors only partially lit and dim glow in dash. I will be installing resistors in morning to correct the problem.
Thanks for this great video. I just have a question. I installed Sylvania LED turn signal bulbs three each side (one front two in the back) for a Chevy Tahoe. I believe I need a load resistor for each LED BULB that means six of them in the car. My question is how can I figure out what watts should I buy (Sylvania sells 5 Watt and 10 Watts load resistor, and one more with no specific rating) each is 12V 6 Ohms. But I don’t know actually what to buy, and now I see you’ve got 50 watts resistor and now I am more confused
Thanks - This helped me install them. I didn't use the crimps but rather spliced each wire and soldered them in then taped and used some heat shrink. I had to extend the wires from the resistor as I didn't have a close mounting point that was metal.
How is your video not the number one spot on this subject?! Very informative video and now I feel confident on fixing the hyperflash issue the other videos didnt really go in depth as this video great content!
1st it's called a MARKER LIGHT, not park or city or whatever ridiculous term you labeled it, In fact, they are called TAIL MARKER,. The circuit is called in parallel that the load equalizer( resistor with heat sink) makes when wired in to resolve the hyper flash. The flasher circuit is actually BRAKE AND TURN. Which when in BRAKE mode is a constant voltage supply as the turn signal switch hasn't routed it through the latching relay AKA flasher. The resistor has to be capable of extended current flow because it will be subjected to it when the BRAKE mode is illuminated.
Installing resistors is not the proper solution, improper heat dissipation can introduce a safety issue, plus you are negating the advantage LEDs give you and you end up using the same, probably a bit more current from your electrical system. To properly install LED turn signals you need to repace the old electro-mechanical flasher with a solid state (transistor) one which btw works with incandenscent bulbs as well.
So my light has like 5 wires on a Honda Accord my turn signal keeps flashing fast I try the blue and the green it don’t work when I do it with the blue it works but it gets hot can you help
Can you help a buddy of mine just stuck the end pieces of the resistors in the same slot of the ground and turn signals. But now it's saying battery changing that didn't happen before
I have a question if I removed the resistors and put the original bulbs back (not LED) will they work normally like how they came? Please need an answer
10:25 "metal to metal helps with heat dissipation" if it's winter time and cold out but not summertime in Phoenix. I would suspend them in the air instead.
This is not always true as far as needing the resistor. It all depends on the type of flasher unit that's installed on the car/truck. If its the old style type it uses a bi-metallic metal contact inside that when the contacts are closed it heats up causing it to flex and open the contacts (turning off the light), when it cools off it then closes again lighting the light (blinker). True that when you change the bulb from incandescent (not halogen) it changes the load on that flasher causing what you referred to as "Hyper flashing". The same thing happens when you hook up a trailer, the increased load can cause the flasher to flash at a higher rate. The reason I said the above is because if the car/truck is equipped with a "Electronic" flasher it is designed to flash at the same rate no matter the load that's put on it. They sell them at most any auto parts store to correct the above turn signal flashing issues when towing a trailer. installed the provided resistor dose also correct the issues and I'm glad to see that you provide them for those that feel they have to splice it inline with the turn signal lead. I saw another person post about it being installed in the brake light circuit? There is no need for that because the brake light system is a consent 12vdc simply applied to the LED bulb with no flasher in the circuit.
Hey, if the 1157 brake bulb and 3157 blinker bulb consume 27watts on high light, and 7 watts on low light each, can I use 35 watts load resistors for the High light instead of the 50watts one?
God bless you. I've been wondering the same thing. Also thinking of adding additional lights. I could use fender and or grill lights. Perhaps 21 watts is close enough to 27? It would be a shame to switch to led only to gain some brightness and lifespan throwing the rest to some stupid resistor to generate heat
the Resistors Wattage Rating and is defined as the amount of heat that a resistive element CAN dissipate for an indefinite period of time without degrading its performance. So 50 watts means it can handle up to 50 watts. Does mean it operates at 50 watts.
LOL! Don't do what this guy says. You'll send power back through your ground if you do. Ground one end of the resistor to the chassis. What he did here DOES work on some vehicles but, will cause issues with vehicles equipped with Bulb Out features. And always secure the resistor to metal of the vehicle.
OK, I have a 2005 TJ Wrangler, it has the 7443 three-wire socket (Front turn signal and park light in one) that had a factory incandescent bulb, I changed it over to a LED on the front and of course, hyperflash began. I am waiting for load resisters to arrive, but when I do, do I need to worry about the parking light being on constantly on the front lights? I did upgrade to a heavy duty flasher/turn signal relay also. Now the rear lights are really hard to get to since the wire cables are shielded by Jeep beyond belief, so I might just keep them incandescent (back-up light on top, turn/park on bottom inside turn signal box) Right now, until I get everything running normal, I am not driving it, ran a few tests as I went along and the electrical system is going crazy, doing things I have never seen! Is a LED flasher/turn signal relay compatible with incandescents?
Trying to do this on a Harley. Can I mount the resistor directly to the new LED wires then plug them in? The resistors actually fit behind the LED lights right in the light housing.
I have a question. I need your advice please. I have installed led rear taillamps in my 1941 chevy. To make them actaully flash, I had to wire in each circuit, l&r, a standard type3 clearance lamp. They work now. Only thing is, the dash indicator lights don't work. Wire in resisters?
Most of these smaller gold type resistors are not designed to be run continuously. Only pulsed loads are safe. If you hook them up to a fog light circuit they will get extremely hot and wont last long.
I seem to have the opposite problem. Installed replacement 1157 LED bulbs in my '39 Studebaker. Signal light work, but tail lights do not light up. Any suggestions will be appreciated.
Hmm, U can use only one resistor for all four bulbs, and save some money. Just cut out negative from all bulbs, join all of that ground into one wire, connect it to the ONE resistor only and connect resistor to the ground. That resistor is not under load all at once, just when direction lights are in function. (in Your case, 50W resistor is way too much than U actually need, just be aware of what is the power consumption of LED, if it's 3 W than resistor can be AT LEAST 3 but it can be little bit larger, f. inst. 4 or 5W. And it's cheaper). In my example, U can use only 10W resistor, it's enough.
For a 2014 Chevy Cruze.. Im trying to figure out the front and rear turn signal wiring.. Which is the ground.. And the blinker wire? Front is blinker wires are brown and violet? Anybody know?
And another thing, connecting up your LOAD resistor with those shitty crimp on connectors is yet another fire hazard. the make poor connections to the wire, especially thinner gauge wire, about 1 or 2 strands at best. it will work for about 6 months and then start going intermittent on you
Let me see if I understand all of this. The stock incandescent bulb consumes 20 watts, but the replacement LED bulb consumes less than 5 watts. But in order to make the low wattage LED bulb function properly, I have to wire-in a Load Resistor that consumes 50 watts? Are you telling me that I will more than double the load on my car's electrical system by switching to LED bulbs? I thought one of the main reasons to switch to LED bulbs was to reduce the load on the vehicle's electrical system.
can I use (4) 50w 6ohm resistors for all 4 turn signals? I heard some people say you should use 3ohms 50w for 4 turn signal. will it make a big difference? and 6ohm 50w if only 2 turn signals
Thank you maybe this will fix my 93 CB750 led rear signal light problem. Literally the same 3 wire setup without a diode configuration in the headlight.
Hi can you help me with this plz I've got a Vauxhall vector 07 1.8 . My front side light is going off and on I've just got the resistors but don't know how to put them on it can you help Plz .Thanks very much. Yours sincerely Robert Gordon
I completely understand your video thank you. My question is, what if I have 2 signal taillight bulbs on the driver and passenger side? Like the 99-04 mustangs? There is actually 3 bulbs per side but only 2 are for the signal. For a grand total of 6 bulbs for the taillights. The kit I bought came with 6 LED bulbs and 2 resistors. Do I actually need a total of 4 resistors? 1 for each bulb? Resistors are the same exact ones used in your video. Thank you so much for any info, I am electrically declined.
My Mustang has separate warning lights on the dash to let you know when a tail light is out AND when a brake light is out. Does that mean I need two resistors on each power lead on the 1157 bulb? Another question... Do all sockets need to be tapped into? Or will 1 resistor (or two depending on the 1157 issue) be needed? Or does every bulb need its own resistor?
I have a 95 jeep wrangler and I installed led tail lights. they work fine as do the brake lights, but the turn signals don't blink at all. Will a load equalizer fix this problem? Thanks.
ok i have a dune buggy i changed out rear turn signals to LED'S they worked , now the FRONT , they did not blink just stayed on , so i imagine i need more current draw on that circuit as well ? to make my 2 front ones blink what size resistor should i use ? how much resistance ? if you know that , thanks
This is the exact video i needed. You explained this to a T perfectly. Now I can confidently install the resistor and finally get rid of that annoying hyper flash. Thank you kind sir!
You, sir, are an exemplary explainer. I’ve been putting off this task for five weeks. I just watched this. Then I clicked subscribe. (I only have about 30 subscriptions...). Respect.
At about 6:00, that was exactly what I needed to hear. Once you explained it that way I now understand it much better. Thanks for clearing that up!
😊
This video cleared a lot of concerns for me. My only other concern is, I've seen two wire lights used as marker and turn signal. How are they able to do that?
Would you need to do this for led taillights as well
Thank you so much sir👏🏼🥸
Thank you for your advise,one question,do I need one resistor for each side ,thank you
You literally, saved my life! Thought I was going to have a brain aneurysm doing my turn signals on my car
Worked perfectly.
Thank you, very understanding video..
Thanks for the video just fitted these to my fiesta, just need to find somewhere to mount them!
I have noticed that on the Prius they use LED bulbs for the stop, backup and running lights. However the turn signal lamp is a standard incandescent. I'm surprised that no one has come out with a automotive flasher module that is no current driven.
latovaas
There are several type of LED flasher modules available. However different cars use different types of flasher modules. Its actually possible to modify most factory flasher modules so that you don't need to use resistors. I have done this before and it works well. However on some vehicles it is very difficult to access the flasher module.
Can i use them if i want to sequential drl but dont want to install indicator bulb with it, will it work ?
Do i have to put it close to the socket for the resistor to work or can I put it closer to the power ?
Seal those blue connections or expect a failure, try liquid electrical tape ,3 coatings
Don't waste your time throw them in the trash and solder the wires and use heat shrink to seal it.
Good job!
When starting the heating resistor? When you're just use flasher?
Thanks for the video! How did you determine to use a 50w resistor for the 20w halogen bulb replacement? I'm intending to add a resistor to an LED reverse bulb setup and wondering what size resistor I should buy.
The "50w" Resistor rating represents the maximum power level the resistor can dissipate. It rated for up to 50W of power dissipation. For example, for a 12V system with 6Ohm resistor, the current flow is 12V/6Ohms = 2Amps. The power dissipated by the resistor is 2 Amps * 12 Volts = 24W. Now 24W
Is it damage the car computer?
These are only for turn signals? What about daytime lights and built in demon eyes?
Okay you answered my question! 🤣
Could you help me pls? I bought a led tail light with intergrated turn signals for my Kawasaki er6n 2007 and I have to buy load resistors. 2 resistors: 25W 8Ω 12V each, wouldn't be right? I have seen photos with similar tail lights which packets include a pair of resistors, 20W 5Ω 12V each. What should I do???
Quand je mets les résistances dans les phares, est-ce que la température du moteur les affecte ?
i did it step by step just like the video said. made sure i didn't mess anything up. and now none of my turn signals work. my hazards dont work its not making any kind of sounds when i put turn signal on. if anyone knows why or how that could've happened i would really appreciate it.
I need advice on LED swap.
I did my rear stop, turn, tail (all in one) on my 95 f150. I don't have hyper glass and they work fine without the resistors.
But my question is, the lights seem dim, do I need to install the resistors to make the LEDs brighter? :)
Maybe you have an electronic flasher installed. As for dim led's you probably have bad led's
I put 1157 led turn signal lights in the front and charged to a new flasher but the light doesn’t flash
i have a question....I want led bulbs 3157 in my tail lights in my trailblazer. so I put some in the top which is the stop/parking light. when I put the bulb in one way the brake light works but the parking doesn't when I take the bulb out and turn it over the parking light work but the brake light wont. they wont work at the same time...would a resistor fix my problem or is it something that just wont work
It sounds like you might have 3156 bulbs. Or, sometimes vehicles use 3157CK style bulbs which look similar to 3157 bulbs but are wired differently. 3156 bulbs have only one metal contact on each side of the bulb. 3157 should have 2 contacts.
the top plug is definitely regular 3157s it has 4 contact points inside the socket and ive been able to use any 3157 bulb.
So after some research I found out that my lights are wired ck...so what type of LED bulb would I need to buy. what number?
I have the exact same load resistor you show connected to H7 yellow LED fog lights.. They are on 7 hours, will the load resistor blow out? Is there any higher quality load resistors other than the ones you show? thank...
Mike Ovanes
Hello, it is very dangerous to use those yellow gold resistors in a fog light application. They are not designed to be run with constant current. Only periodic use for turn signals. They will get extremely hot if there is current running constantly though them as with a fog light application. I can provide you with higher quality resistors that can be run constantly. Please send us an email for more info: sales@enlightauto.com
Enlight Automotive - The best LED and HID lights for you vehicle Hey guys! Very informative and helpful video! I have a question though. My car is Honda Accord Type R 2001. I want to replace my stock turning signals with aftermarket LEDs. I am from Finland and i both from the local Motonet store aftermarket electronic LED flasher relay ( 12V MAX 30W)..,i found my stock flasher relay under the steering,and my question is,do i need to replace all the stock bulbs ( 6) with LEDs and the relay,or i need to do something else and what is that? I am not really good at electronics,but just basics. Thank you!
How many resistors would one need to convert to led on both sides, front and rear?
2 or 4?
So I put 100w but it still hyper flashes do I just need the 50w?
Welp, there's my problem. Wired it in parallel on the + side. LOL Ty for the info!
can i use this to an led strip
I have a Chevy Colorado.. now, I want to run LEDs for the running lights. Do I need load resistors for running lights? Secondly, my turning signals are part of the running lights meaning when I'm not using the directional function they stay just still and act as a running lights. Will my directionals have issues due to being a running light as well?
thx
Normally you would not need resistors for the running lights. You must be very careful when using these type of resistors for running lights or anything that will be on for extended period of time. These gold resistors will not last very long under continuous current load without a very large heat sink, they will also get extremely hot. It sounds like the bulbs you have will be a dual-filament bulb where one filament acts as the running lights, and one for the turn signal function. In this case, you will only want to run resistors on the turn signal function.
Thank you!
im having this same problem. when parking lights are incorporated with the turn signals, relays are used to turn the parking lights off then back on which causes a heat issue with resistors being constantly powered.
I have the Same truck but with 2 gray wires and 2 black wires and 1 blue wire in the socket. I know the black ones are ground but I don't know which one is for the signal wire
So I decided to change to all leds to save on energy. Is there a way to hack the hyper flash to be able to work normally with out adding resistance and consuming near the same as halogen.
Yes, for some vehicles you can get an LED specific flasher module. Most vehicles have a flasher module often located under the dash which controls the blinking rate. Sometimes these units can be physically modified by reducing the size of an internal component. Or you can actually purchase LED flasher modules in different form factors to fit different cars. You will have to figure out if your vehicle has a removable flasher module, and If there is an LED specific module which will fit your vehicle.
Enlight Automotive I've searched everywhere, but I'm pretty positive that a '14 Nissan Juke RS doesn't have a flasher relay. Can you please confirm if this is correct? I think I'm stuck using load resistors..
No mention of how many watts/ohms of your resistor there pal?
Vs watts/resistance of the old incandescent bulbs,?.... meh, eryone already left to install LEDs.
So i have a 2014 f150 with 2 lights in each tail light. How do i wire 1 resistor to each side?
+joseph chop Just replace the turn signal flasher relay with one designed for use with LED's. Easier, Faster, and you don't have to cut into a perfectly good and sealed truck wiring harness.
Where can I buy those resistors? Thanks
Hands on That you can buy it from your nearest orielys store
Thanks for the video.
I installed an LED tail lights on my vehicle, they're too bright ' illegal".
What should I do?
Please let me know.
Honestly, ftbs! "Too bright" is str8 BULLSHIT! ! They're just fkn with you! 😉 I was once pulled over in a small 😝 town because "license pl8 bulbs weren't bright ENOUGH"! Just don't be afraid to fight it! 😉🍻
I thought Scotch Lock connectors went of style years ago. Good avenue for salt and corrosion. Not a sealed connection. How much wattage does the resistor draw? Kind of defeats the purpose of a LED light. Why won't a electronic flasher work just as well.
Ever heard of shrink tubing? Where the fuck do you people come from?
Solder and heat shrink is indeed the more reliable way to do resistors. However many people do not have these tools or may not be comfortable with the process. Also, using heat shrink will require cutting the wires or de-pinning a socket to get the heat shrink around both wires which some people will not want to do or it adds complexity. LED's are often purchased for their visual appeal rather than power saving when it comes to automotive applications. LED turn signals have an instant-on instant-off function that some people enjoy over the pulsing glow of a incandescent bulb. There are other ways to make LED signals work without resistors, but this is one of the most common methods. Never did the video say this was the best way to install LED lights. If you look through the comments, we have discussed electronics flashers already.
These work, but the much better, cheaper and safer way to fix this situation is to just buy a new Turn Signal Relay that is rated for LED bulbs. Literally, that's it. You don't have to buy a resistor for every bulb, and install all of them, just pull out the old relay and plug in the new one. I drive a 1992 Toyota Pickup and replaced every single light to an LED, and had to either buy a bunch of these things, or just one LED relay.
I tried that, but couldn't find one specific to my 2004 1.8s Nissan sentra. I bought a generic one, and the blinkers work but only when the headlights are off. As soon as I turn on the headlights, the blinkers stay ON. But I can sort of get the blinkers to work my manually switching the blinker on and off.
Any ideas ???
Thank you for this video bro! I just wanted to know why and what are resistors. You answered my question! 🙌
Excellent video. I've been trying to figure this out but I wired it incorrectly. Much appreciated.
If i have LED's for the front and rear blinkers do i need 4 resistors or just 2?
Thankyou for the detailed info. I went through several videos before finding yours. Yours was the only one to tell me why or why not to resistor-bridge the patking light wire. I know that you said it would overheat but why not if I can mount the resistor to metal so that it will not melt anything. Won't the reduced wattage extend the life of the leds?
I just purchased new headlight assembly’s with led turn signals on my 2013 Mercedes-Benz GLK 350. They came pre-wired with resistors but, they do not work. Any suggestions??
Tom
INCORRECT... AN LED IS A DIODE. This is the only real issue becausd power can only go one direction thru the bulb and the computer is sending power while checking current but ALSO looking for continuity to ground thru the bulb and if it cannot do all three you get a code and the on-off-on-off flicker.
Even the older cars have hyper flash because the relay biases power thru the bulb and it cannot do this with an l.e.d or a circuit with a diode in it. Because though it can send power thru the bulb, the relay cannot see ground thru the bulb so after the first blink it goes rapid fishing away because relay has no ground to keep it on the "off" cycle thru a diode. therefore the computer nore the flash relay can use this as it is an incomplete circuit one way but is propper the other way. You need a sure circuit via a wire/ filament resistance and not a diode as the power thru the flasher goes both directions in each bulb, this is how it is designed to my understsnding... for instance you should be able to easily replicate this by puttung the factory bulb back in and put a diode in line on either wire and have the same issue hyper flash and code, because there needs to be a ground reference.
I figured out I can use a 25 ohm 25watt resistor that has very little heat due to its low power consumption @14.7 volts due to its high resistance value and have no hyper flash or codes. And the resistor draws less power than the bulb that was in the socket to begin with and it was because I was nervous with the heat the normal resistors is get online so now I order specifically 30ohm resistors (25watt for turns and low power bulbs) and 30ohm 50watt resistors for headlights (though im sure the 25watt resistors would be sufficient on both applications without all the unnecessary heat and waste of power with over sized resistors and severely under rated resistance values. I would "never go less than 16ohms resistance on a bulb circuit to correct a fish issue or code issue. Just plain stupid and id say that's what a non educated person would do 6 ohm and 50 watts is just nuts
The blinker isn't even 50 watts!
My resistors draw less than 5amps and correct the issue safely! With less heat
Yep, there's not much point changing to LEDs if it's going to require a low value shunt resistor and end up drawing the same amount of current anyway. The higher resistance resistors are good idea.
But unfortunately I think the kit manufactures will stick with the low resistance resistors, which are equivalent to the resistance of the incandescent bulb being replaced because it will ensure compatibility to any vehicle.
The better option but dearer than using stunt resistors would be changing the blinker unit to an LED type, if the vehicle uses them.
It can sometimes be easier to just change the blinker relay to an LED compatible one, a new blinker can flash all bulb or all led or a mixture of both.
RetroCable.com my 2014 jeep wrangler doesn't have that as an option. The ecu controls the flash. Never knew they did it like that
My dodge ram doesn't have them. The new rams or dodge vehicles dont have relays it's in the trim system so we have to use these
Even by doing so some vehicles still need at least the front directionals to utilize resistors on them. My 03' Tahoe for example. I have a LM487 led flasher I just installed and still have some problems with flashrate, led's in mirrors only partially lit and dim glow in dash. I will be installing resistors in morning to correct the problem.
@@discoversunshine you can try to coding your ecu in vw its easy
back in the day i wired a incandescent bulb under the hood to stop hyper flash
Thanks for this great video. I just have a question. I installed Sylvania LED turn signal bulbs three each side (one front two in the back) for a Chevy Tahoe. I believe I need a load resistor for each LED BULB that means six of them in the car. My question is how can I figure out what watts should I buy (Sylvania sells 5 Watt and 10 Watts load resistor, and one more with no specific rating) each is 12V 6 Ohms. But I don’t know actually what to buy, and now I see you’ve got 50 watts resistor and now I am more confused
Do recommend installing a resistor to each led bulb connection site? I have a 1980 Jeep cj 7 with two front signal lights and two side/fender lights.
my L.E.D lights work fine in my car but on ignition the lights flash like a disco
😂
Thanks - This helped me install them. I didn't use the crimps but rather spliced each wire and soldered them in then taped and used some heat shrink. I had to extend the wires from the resistor as I didn't have a close mounting point that was metal.
How is your video not the number one spot on this subject?! Very informative video and now I feel confident on fixing the hyperflash issue the other videos didnt really go in depth as this video great content!
1st it's called a MARKER LIGHT, not park or city or whatever ridiculous term you labeled it, In fact, they are called TAIL MARKER,. The circuit is called in parallel that the load equalizer( resistor with heat sink) makes when wired in to resolve the hyper flash. The flasher circuit is actually BRAKE AND TURN. Which when in BRAKE mode is a constant voltage supply as the turn signal switch hasn't routed it through the latching relay AKA flasher. The resistor has to be capable of extended current flow because it will be subjected to it when the BRAKE mode is illuminated.
Thanks for clarifying that the brake light will cause heat problems. Amazon reviewers are showing pictures of a resistor on each line for some reason.
Installing resistors is not the proper solution, improper heat dissipation can introduce a safety issue, plus you are negating the advantage LEDs give you and you end up using the same, probably a bit more current from your electrical system. To properly install LED turn signals you need to repace the old electro-mechanical flasher with a solid state (transistor) one which btw works with incandenscent bulbs as well.
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Thanks for the content.
Keep up the good work.
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To the fool who says you buy a new relay...can't do that on a harley..why tell people something you don't know about?????
Your pretty warm is over 400 degrees. I checked last night. So don't have the resistor touching anything.
So my light has like 5 wires on a Honda Accord my turn signal keeps flashing fast I try the blue and the green it don’t work when I do it with the blue it works but it gets hot can you help
Can you help a buddy of mine just stuck the end pieces of the resistors in the same slot of the ground and turn signals. But now it's saying battery changing that didn't happen before
Did you cut the turn signal wires and insert them or just clip over them
IRON horse so do you cut or clip
I had the other style and the resistor got so hot I'm going back to stock Bulbs for 2007 Dodge Ram 1500
Thank you for this video , it helped me sort my problem with the over heating resistor .
5:10 your welcome 🙏🏻
Thanks 5 minutes for a 30 second job
I have a question if I removed the resistors and put the original bulbs back (not LED) will they work normally like how they came? Please need an answer
It should. Just reconnect the wires like how it was before, and you should be fine
10:25 "metal to metal helps with heat dissipation" if it's winter time and cold out but not summertime in Phoenix. I would suspend them in the air instead.
This is not always true as far as needing the resistor. It all depends on the type of flasher unit that's installed on the car/truck. If its the old style type it uses a bi-metallic metal contact inside that when the contacts are closed it heats up causing it to flex and open the contacts (turning off the light), when it cools off it then closes again lighting the light (blinker). True that when you change the bulb from incandescent (not halogen) it changes the load on that flasher causing what you referred to as "Hyper flashing". The same thing happens when you hook up a trailer, the increased load can cause the flasher to flash at a higher rate. The reason I said the above is because if the car/truck is equipped with a "Electronic" flasher it is designed to flash at the same rate no matter the load that's put on it. They sell them at most any auto parts store to correct the above turn signal flashing issues when towing a trailer.
installed the provided resistor dose also correct the issues and I'm glad to see that you provide them for those that feel they have to splice it inline with the turn signal lead. I saw another person post about it being installed in the brake light circuit? There is no need for that because the brake light system is a consent 12vdc simply applied to the LED bulb with no flasher in the circuit.
Don't touch the bulbs with your bare hands, the oils from your hand will shorten their life span.
Hey, if the 1157 brake bulb and 3157 blinker bulb consume 27watts on high light, and 7 watts on low light each, can I use 35 watts load resistors for the High light instead of the 50watts one?
God bless you. I've been wondering the same thing. Also thinking of adding additional lights. I could use fender and or grill lights. Perhaps 21 watts is close enough to 27? It would be a shame to switch to led only to gain some brightness and lifespan throwing the rest to some stupid resistor to generate heat
the Resistors Wattage Rating and is defined as the amount of heat that a resistive element CAN dissipate for an indefinite period of time without degrading its performance. So 50 watts means it can handle up to 50 watts. Does mean it operates at 50 watts.
Great video. New subscriber. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for the video. You answered a lots of questions. I do lots of led installs on my cars an trucks. An I wanted to know about those.
Do you need to add a resistor to all four turn signals in the vehicle or just two of them to get the proper resistance to stop the hyper flash?
all. if you change the front and rear that means you would need four.
You didn’t show how to connect to the clips, which is what I’m having a problem with
Thanks much for taking the time to explain this to the rest of us. God Bless!
LOL! Don't do what this guy says. You'll send power back through your ground if you do. Ground one end of the resistor to the chassis. What he did here DOES work on some vehicles but, will cause issues with vehicles equipped with Bulb Out features. And always secure the resistor to metal of the vehicle.
The OEM bulbs are not halogen..... they are incandescent.
OK, I have a 2005 TJ Wrangler, it has the 7443 three-wire socket (Front turn signal and park light in one) that had a factory incandescent bulb, I changed it over to a LED on the front and of course, hyperflash began. I am waiting for load resisters to arrive, but when I do, do I need to worry about the parking light being on constantly on the front lights? I did upgrade to a heavy duty flasher/turn signal relay also. Now the rear lights are really hard to get to since the wire cables are shielded by Jeep beyond belief, so I might just keep them incandescent (back-up light on top, turn/park on bottom inside turn signal box) Right now, until I get everything running normal, I am not driving it, ran a few tests as I went along and the electrical system is going crazy, doing things I have never seen! Is a LED flasher/turn signal relay compatible with incandescents?
Thanks for that. I must admit, I was about to wire them in series ..lol..
Scotch Blocks connectors should be Banned !!!!! :)
Trying to do this on a Harley. Can I mount the resistor directly to the new LED wires then plug them in? The resistors actually fit behind the LED lights right in the light housing.
The connection probably won’t be the best but you can try it
I have a question. I need your advice please. I have installed led rear taillamps in my 1941 chevy. To make them actaully flash, I had to wire in each circuit, l&r, a standard type3 clearance lamp. They work now. Only thing is, the dash indicator lights don't work. Wire in resisters?
Can you use this to completely remove bulb and just put one of these so the car can still think theres a bulb, this is for fog lights?
Most of these smaller gold type resistors are not designed to be run continuously. Only pulsed loads are safe. If you hook them up to a fog light circuit they will get extremely hot and wont last long.
Unfortunately, daytime running lights are frequently on the front blinker, and brakes on the rear
I seem to have the opposite problem. Installed replacement 1157 LED bulbs in my '39 Studebaker. Signal light work, but tail lights do not light up. Any suggestions will be appreciated.
Hmm, U can use only one resistor for all four bulbs, and save some money. Just cut out negative from all bulbs, join all of that ground into one wire, connect it to the ONE resistor only and connect resistor to the ground. That resistor is not under load all at once, just when direction lights are in function. (in Your case, 50W resistor is way too much than U actually need, just be aware of what is the power consumption of LED, if it's 3 W than resistor can be AT LEAST 3 but it can be little bit larger, f. inst. 4 or 5W. And it's cheaper). In my example, U can use only 10W resistor, it's enough.
For a 2014 Chevy Cruze.. Im trying to figure out the front and rear turn signal wiring.. Which is the ground.. And the blinker wire? Front is blinker wires are brown and violet? Anybody know?
And another thing, connecting up your LOAD resistor with those shitty crimp on connectors is yet another fire hazard. the make poor connections to the wire, especially thinner gauge wire, about 1 or 2 strands at best. it will work for about 6 months and then start going intermittent on you
I have a 09 Silverado and I put in the resistors as shown. My right side works perfectly fine but my left side doesn’t work at all
Let me see if I understand all of this. The stock incandescent bulb consumes 20 watts, but the replacement LED bulb consumes less than 5 watts. But in order to make the low wattage LED bulb function properly, I have to wire-in a Load Resistor that consumes 50 watts? Are you telling me that I will more than double the load on my car's electrical system by switching to LED bulbs? I thought one of the main reasons to switch to LED bulbs was to reduce the load on the vehicle's electrical system.
can I use (4) 50w 6ohm resistors for all 4 turn signals? I heard some people say you should use 3ohms 50w for 4 turn signal. will it make a big difference? and 6ohm 50w if only 2 turn signals
Thank you maybe this will fix my 93 CB750 led rear signal light problem. Literally the same 3 wire setup without a diode configuration in the headlight.
Hi can you help me with this plz
I've got a Vauxhall vector 07 1.8 . My front side light is going off and on I've just got the resistors but don't know how to put them on it can you help
Plz .Thanks very much.
Yours sincerely
Robert Gordon
I completely understand your video thank you. My question is, what if I have 2 signal taillight bulbs on the driver and passenger side? Like the 99-04 mustangs? There is actually 3 bulbs per side but only 2 are for the signal. For a grand total of 6 bulbs for the taillights. The kit I bought came with 6 LED bulbs and 2 resistors. Do I actually need a total of 4 resistors? 1 for each bulb? Resistors are the same exact ones used in your video. Thank you so much for any info, I am electrically declined.
My Mustang has separate warning lights on the dash to let you know when a tail light is out AND when a brake light is out. Does that mean I need two resistors on each power lead on the 1157 bulb? Another question... Do all sockets need to be tapped into? Or will 1 resistor (or two depending on the 1157 issue) be needed? Or does every bulb need its own resistor?
I have a 95 jeep wrangler and I installed led tail lights. they work fine as do the brake lights, but the turn signals don't blink at all. Will a load equalizer fix this problem? Thanks.
ok i have a dune buggy i changed out rear turn signals to LED'S they worked , now the FRONT , they did not blink just stayed on , so i imagine i need more current draw on that circuit as well ? to make my 2 front ones blink what size resistor should i use ? how much resistance ? if you know that , thanks
This is the exact video i needed. You explained this to a T perfectly. Now I can confidently install the resistor and finally get rid of that annoying hyper flash. Thank you kind sir!
Metal to metal and add thermal paste so it can dissipate heat
5:20 it's a good thing you said not to do that because that's what I was exactly about to do......good thing I watched the video 🤭🤭🤭🤣😂😂
How much are the 1157 L 40 ?? i have a 2008 Volvo C 30 .i AM pretty sure they are 1157 blinkers ..please confirm. Thank You
hey, i want to leave my front signal light on all the time but i want them to flash when i make a turn will those resistors work?
If lead bulb dies would i get an error to know it?