This is the video that clearly clarified the difference between cross cut and rip saw !!! All others I had seen earlier were just beating about the bush for me .
I think this makes good sense if you imagine it at the millimetre level. If you have a mini chisel, you would use that to go with the grain, as it would readily split this and also make a neater finish along it. It’d also fill the gullet quickly on the push stroke and so as you then need to remove this material it would be prudent to have a larger gullet. The chisel edge would also be less inclined to follow a grain and continue in its path unperturbed. The orthogonal cutting edge can also then efficiently transport the material to behind the tooth away from the kerf for the other teeth to dispense. This final process is then the reason for the rip saw producing finer grain of dust! ✅ For the crosscut saw, removing lots of material isn’t priority as you have to cut against the strong fibres. You need more, angled and smaller teeth to break the fibres at two specific points along it which would then break the fibrous material from the stock✅. Extra: I had an epiphany from this logic for I realised I’d been cutting wood in the wrong direction with a band saw for a while and hadn’t sussed the cause of the vibration! (Quite dangerous actually!) Combinations of the aforementioned tooth types also exist. Thanks a lot for this educational video :)
Thank you for saying this!!! I went back and realized it wasn't a wood blade. My first thought was "why not use a real saw?". The lighting was the thing that messed me up. I'm good now.
I watched this video three times haha. I'm a total novice. The explanation is excellent, very thorough, and in terms that laymen can understand. Which leads me to believe that I'm below a layman haha, because I'm going to watch it again. I have to go get my saws though and look at the teeth while I'm watching haha. Thanks for the tutorial though, very informative!
This is such a wholesome video, and I feel so bad because I'm here to refresh my knowledge on saws for my forensic anthropology final... Regardless, thank you for being so comprehensive!
You and I both, McCool! "Someone" 😡🥷🏻 just out of view of my security camera cut down one of my trees. Since I am not an expert in hand-saw kerf marks, here I am!
thanks for simplifying the explanation. I needed to explain it to a youngen, and it's easier to let yo do it. I would imagine most people these days wouldn't know there are such saw a saw is a saw to most.
Very good video. Most ppl that try to explain the difference between the saws usually either don't have the saws with them or show very low or just flat out poor quality video so you can't see the blade pattern. It was also a bonus to have you give the quick run down on the sharpening angles. Now you need to do a video of tooth setting.
+John Burkitt I was about to do video on setting the teeth but my 42 broke. I just picked up 3 more last weekend. that is on my list! thanks for the great complement!
I have an old two man combination cross-cut saw hanging up in my garage, most likely from 1900. It has two cross-cut teeth and a double sided rip tooth. The teeth are about 40mm deep. Sad to say it is very rusty..
Very clear, short and to the point. Seen a few videos about this topic but must admit I get lost in the amount of information and details. Thanks! Was just wondering where the set of the teeth comes in.
+Nearoth Whe I was first looking into hand saws this question drove me nuts! I did this more to answer my own frustration. LOL The set is basically the same between the two.
+Wood Wright makes sense. you'd want a wider kerf on both cuts than the width of the saw. You mentioned the angle for cross cuts between 45 and 10. Would you say that would also depend on the type of wood? And what would be the reasoning behind it... steeper angle = sharper edge for harder woods? Sorry if I turn the comment section into a conversation :-)
The difference in angle is all up to the user. a steeper angle gives you a sharper cut but they dull quicker. Most manufacturers put it around 10-15 but I have no problem sharpening so I like it a bit steeper.
This is a great explanation for hand saws, but I have the same question for circular saw blades. There are only framing, combo and finish (and ultra finish) blades, but that only seems to indicate the number of teeth. I can't find a blade marked rip or crosscut.
James, could you go over the different types of saws to use for different types of wood? I know that a cross cut saw would be for going across the grain, and a rip saw for going with the grain, but when would you use a saw with more teeth per inch vs. a saw with fewer teeth per inch?
I do have a few videos talking about different types of saws but when it comes to size of teeth it's a fairly simple matter that bigger teeth cut faster but leave a more ragged cut. Smaller teeth cut slower but leave a cleaner cut. so if you're doing joinery and you want a nice clean cut then you want something with small teeth. Or as if you're ripping a board to size and it doesn't matter too much cuz you're going to go at it with a plane in a minute then bigger teeth allow you to cut through it quicker.
Which type of saw would you recommend me to cut tree limbs ( some are quite thick) or even trees ( small) ? I'm interested in which one cuts faster, no matter the effort.... Thank you !
Do that you probably want a limb saw. That's a different type of cross cut. It also has rakers that help remove the chips when they've been cut. If you want to go traditional the saw you use is a buck saw. But they're all a modified version of crosscut teeth.
Now that I know the difference between them I would like to know if you have any opinions on a couple good saws for beginners? Thanks and great explanation!
+Josh Millar Thanks! well that depends on what you want to do. I think the best all around is a 10 TPI Crosscut panel saw around 24" that is fine enough you could do fine cuts but big enough you can cut lumber. and it is eraser to rip cut with a cross cut saw then the other way around. but the truth of the matter is I have never spent more then $5 on a saw (other then 2 Special back saws) you can get old saws for nothing at antique shops and sales. Does that answer your question!
I got to watch this again. Question I had in mind is if it is necessary to have automatic tools such as circular saw instead? Let’s say to cut horizontal (against the grain of a 2x4, 4x4, etc.) in an exaggeration of every inch. And, I’m only guessing, based on the video a cross cut saw would do that kind of work?
When do you use a crosscut and when do you use a rip saw? I now know how to sharpen them, but I still don't know if I need both? Is one for cutting across the grain and the other with the grain? Is one for had wood and the other for soft? Does one leave a larger groove? Does one cut quicker? Does one cut finer?
A cross cut is for cutting across the grain. A rip cut is for ripping the board or cutting with the grain. in general rip teeth tend to be a little bit larger than their counterparts for the same cut. Also in general cross cut teeth tend to leave a slightly cleaner cut than rip cut teeth. You can use either saw for either operation but they each work better in their own particular use.
While shopping for saws I see a variety in the number of teeth per inch when comparing a given type of saw. Would you consider a video on when you might use higher teeth count to lower teeth count? Possibly one comparison for Rip cut saws and a second comparison for cross cut saws.
I might have to do that in the future. I go into it a bit in this video th-cam.com/video/1cK-xN2uAUI/w-d-xo.html but basicly the bigger the tooth the faster the cut, but the smaller the tooth the cleaner the cut so you have to balance that. Also, the thinner the board the smaller the tooth you want.
Very Interesting n informative analysis of types of cut. It will aid in my DIY knowledge n future projects. Kudos for upload. New subscriber because of this vid. Anticipating ur next one. Peace
Thanks. That means a lot. Most of the teaching videos are now on the second channel. Wood By Wright How 2 I had to split them up due to the TH-cam algorithm.
Loved the truly "scientific" explanation; will never forget it because of that! QUESTION: At 2:42, you say something about the teeth not being in the same plane at times. Would you mind explaining: a.) Is the sole purpose of staggering alternate teeth in two different planes to make the cut wider for easier cutting? and b) Is that optional on either of the two saws or is it more common on one type? Thank you for the wonderful video!!
"Set" on a saw id the teeth sticking out wider than the plate of the saw. this keeps the saw from binding in the cut and makes it easier to turn the cut. the more set you have the easier it is to turn the cut, but the wider the cut is and the more work you have to put into it. almost all saws have set with the exception of some Japanese saws, and flush cut saws. does that answer the question?
If I am correct the saw that I have was at one point a rip saw, it is now a cross cut saw that I can use when I am out in the woods I now have a couple things to do to finish fixing it, I need to clean the saw up on the sides with Emri cloth and put a new handle on it
I have not as it is just as simple as changing the angle of the file to the angle you want and going tell the flats on the top of the teeth are gone. the only problem is if you want to change the TPI then you got a lot of work a head of you.
Every set of pliers is different and it all depends on the size of the tooth. The bigger the tooth the more set you put on it the smaller the tooth the less set you put on it. It also depends on a very personal setting some people like a lot of set and some people don't like much at all. so in the end there really is no correct amount. I usually say try something near the middle and then next time try a little more or a little less depending on what you want.
Thanks for the video. However, it seems like you made an error when trying to explain the difference between a rip saw blade and a cross cut saw blade. It happened when you tried to illustrate the difference by placing one of the respective saw blades on top of the other respective saw blade. You said that the blade on top was a cross cut saw blade and the blade on the bottom was the rip saw blade. It seems to contradict with what followed, which seems to be accurate.
Thanks for the informative video itreally helps me,but I'm curious how to sharpen my dovetail in terms of an angle of my file,is it same as i sharpen my ripsaw at 90 degree angle? More power and thanks...robert from philippines...
most people make the dovetail saw a bit of a hybrid at around 80 degrees. I generally file it at 90 just because it is primarily a rip saw and I do not see an appreciable difference in blow out between the two. so experiment and see what you like. there is no wrong way.
I’m looking for a saw that I can pack into the backcountry and saw 8 to 10in trees to build a cabin! I’m only going taking one pack and one saw so it needs to be a good all rounder preferably around 26” in length for packweight purposes! since I won’t just be able to run to the hardware store for supplies it will also need to be a saw that I can simply sharpen when it gets dull! (What is the perfect hand saw for this?) I’ll have an axe, chisels, file, rasp and etc! Just want a reliable saw that won’t fail me!
Nice. I would look for a Distin all that was made before 1950. Something around a 6 PPI Crosscut. It won't be easy fastest for large logs but it is small enough that you can still use it for most of the joinery work you'll need
I was wondering if you could help me? I was shopping for Hand saws and they were not calling them cross cut, or rip cut. they were calling them medium cut, and fine cut. is that a new term they came up with or what. im very confused. maybe there hybrid saws I'm thinking I just don't know. Maybe you do.
If you are looking a store at new saws they are all hardened teeth (can not be sharpened) and they are all cross cut saws. they do not sell woodworking saws in stores anymore unless it is a specialty store. medium and fine are talking about the size of the tooth. and how aggressive they cut. they are designed for carpentry and framing
@@WoodByWright I mostly know how to use power tools for woodworking anyway. I was just hoping I could cheat and buy handsaws over a circular saw. Because it's cheaper than buying a circular saw plus the blades you'll need. I do like the draw of hand tools. I like to fallow and enjoy watching your chanal. I hope to buy hand tools and do wood working in the future. But for now I'm focusing on power tools. You can still even make dove tails with power tools. I'm so sad to not see wood worker even make any kind of strong joinery any more. My cabinet teacher in the trade school I'm going to still uses dados for cabinets. And dove tails for drawers if customer will pay were building for. But a lot of wood workers are convincing other wood workers to abandon old fashioned joinery even there faster machined versions. It's quite sad.
Hello! Could someone please tell me what are those hanging on the wall on his back left ? The long wooden sticks with "teeth" and metal on their edge? I got some in my basement but I don't know their usage. Appreciate it.
I beleave you are referring to the beam clamps. They are the older version of a pipe clamp. Extreamly strong and a ton of fun to work with. If you have them you are lucky! They are hard to find.
Hey great video and awesome channel. I really love your work... I have a question ... I have a 20 inch saw that is 7 tpi induction hardened teeth. Pattern looks like a cross cut pattern as per your drawing. When turning the saw to look down the edge of the blade I can see every other tooth is oriented in the opposite direction of the 1 before and after it. Creating about a 1/16 inch wide cut... What would you recommend I primarily use this saw for? To get the best out of it and longest life out of it? ... Your help is much appreciated and really, thanks for the great vids!!! Always clear and educational. I learn alot from your channel ;) cheers
Thanks. That's light bends to the teeth is called set. That allows you to turn the blade a little bit in the cut as well as helping to keep the saw from binding up while moving in the cut. It sounds like you were describing a small panel saw. Often that is used for cross-cutting stock after it has been rough shaped. Not the saw you would want to use for a final finishing cut but not big enough to use on large pieces of lumber.
clean cut depends on the size of the tooth. they can both cut a clean cut. they both will work in all kinds of woods. there you want to chose a saw depending on tooth size as well but that matters far less and most people will not tell the difference other than bigger cuts faster.
They are both used for hard and soft. Rip saw versus cross-cut saw is referring to which orientation you're cutting the board. For a saw there really isn't any difference between hardwood and softwood. The bigger the tooth the harder it is to push but the faster it cuts The smaller is the tooth the easier it is to push and the finer the cut but the slower it is to cut. That holds true across all types of wood. Most of the time when the saw gets stuck in the wood it is because the wood is relaxing and pinching the blade You can fix that by adding more set to the teeth or by waxing the plate so that it moves easily through the wood. Another problem that might cause pinching is if the blade has too much set on one side it will cause it to turn in the cut. This can cause the blade to pinch as well.
The set on the saws should be about the same depending on the tooth size. How much set you want depends on your skill, the wood you want to cut, and the size of the tooth. along with other factors.
Um, the music is a bit loud and distracting! Would have been good to know which direction these saws are supposed to go. But I guess I can as a Sat Nav!
@@WoodByWright Can you share the link please. I'm new at this and I want to make a picture frame with mitered corners which means I have to cut the corners at an angle. I am going to buy a Japanese saw but I don't know which one to choose for cutting those angles on pine which is soft wood. Would I want a rip cut blade or cross cut blade for this?
It is possible to do it with a Dremel cut-off saw but it is incredibly difficult. Of the three or four dozen people I've heard. Try it. I've only seen one successfully sharpened a saw to a decent quality. The problem is the steel is not hardened steel and it's very easy to go too far and if you go too far on on one tooth then you've got to go back and do them all again.
Was just thinking... go back to this topic and explain teeth per inch and why there's a need for multiple saws of both for differing size jobs for those watching to learn a little more...
In India local carpenters do a process called ' belling the hand saw' where they tilt one tooth little right and next to little left and so on till the end. I had not seen similar in similar exotic videos like yours !!! plz opine.
@@WoodByWright Thanks a lot for letting me know the the correct terminology. BTW, this setting is one time process or needs to be done every time we sharpen a saw ???
@@independentthinker7970 That depends on the saw and how much material you take off when you sharpen it. On most saws I will only set the teeth once every four or five sharpenings.
+flysubcompact Not a problem I am happy for the comment eather way! I just love collecting and restoring hand saws from 10" dove tale saws to 36" panel saws. I have yet to jump into full sized crosscut saws but some day I will. Do you do any wood working? Love meeting woodworkers on here and building more contacts.
I do, but only out of need. I built my house (and helped on several others). More of a rough carpenter that only does the pretty finishing when he has to. :) Don't have the patience for refined work, but I love setting the bones of a structure. I don't have many antique wood tools, but I do have a good bit of old blacksmithing stuff.
+flysubcompact now blacksmithing is an art that I HIGHLY admire. they say that is the one craft that is the beginning of all other crafts. one of these days when I get a larger shop I intend to have a blacksmithing section as well.
I'm just a hack with some cool old blacksmith tools. I do like piddling with it though. If I ever get the east wing of my barn finished, that will be my iron fab/BS shop and tractor shed.
This was extraordinarily confusing, and I feel like there is a lot of helpful info here, so I will ellaborate on my confusion. You are talking about a blade on top and bottom, and you had them stacked, so I am thinking that way, not up and down my screen. I would say point to the thing you're talking about. Point to the "knife point" you refer to. Show and point to the bevel on the blade (you talk about bevels a few times, but don't show them until your drawing near the end). You started talking about files, but never said you were talking about sharpening...I assume. I hopped on here cause I learned about saws working in the shop with my dad, but I never learned about ripsaws because we would use a table saw. I never learned how to sharpen a handsaw either. I clicked this to learn first, that I knew what a ripsaw is used for (cause I had a guess, but names can be misleading), second, how to identify one, and third, anything else you might add.
right on this is one of my oldest videos. I ahve two newer ones that are a bit cleaner once I learned a bit more about making videos. thanks for the feedback.
Learned more in four minutes than I had in my entire life about handsaws. Might be useful to demonstrate actual cuts with the saws, too. Thanks
that would have been a great idea. wish I could receve shoot it now!
This is the video that clearly clarified the difference between cross cut and rip saw !!! All others I had seen earlier were just beating about the bush for me .
Thanks. I had the same problem when I first got into hand tools just couldn't find a good explanation of it. Glad I could help.
I think this makes good sense if you imagine it at the millimetre level.
If you have a mini chisel, you would use that to go with the grain, as it would readily split this and also make a neater finish along it. It’d also fill the gullet quickly on the push stroke and so as you then need to remove this material it would be prudent to have a larger gullet. The chisel edge would also be less inclined to follow a grain and continue in its path unperturbed. The orthogonal cutting edge can also then efficiently transport the material to behind the tooth away from the kerf for the other teeth to dispense. This final process is then the reason for the rip saw producing finer grain of dust! ✅
For the crosscut saw, removing lots of material isn’t priority as you have to cut against the strong fibres. You need more, angled and smaller teeth to break the fibres at two specific points along it which would then break the fibrous material from the stock✅.
Extra: I had an epiphany from this logic for I realised I’d been cutting wood in the wrong direction with a band saw for a while and hadn’t sussed the cause of the vibration! (Quite dangerous actually!) Combinations of the aforementioned tooth types also exist.
Thanks a lot for this educational video :)
I'm studying for the ASVAB and this helps a lot on the shop section. Many thanks.
Thanks, many channels talk about using the correct saw, but this is the first time I've seen the physical differences described.
Thanks! glad I can help!
@@WoodByWright So for cutting tree branches, a cross cut is faster since it's cutting perpendicular to the grain ?
@@Choice777 corect!
0:45
It gives me an illusion of saw made of wood from up and one of metal from down .😊
After some time I realized the difference.😂
Thank you for saying this!!! I went back and realized it wasn't a wood blade. My first thought was "why not use a real saw?".
The lighting was the thing that messed me up. I'm good now.
Finally a video that explains the difference properly. Thank you!
Thanks. My pleasure. Back when I got started that was a very confusing topic for me so I figured it'd be a good video that might help will feel people
This video actually explains the difference in the simplest and best possible way. Kudos!
thanks! glad I could help!
Thank you very much Mr. Wright for your useful explanation. I will try to sharpen my saws.
Thank you so much for explaining the tooth pattern so many videos seem to actually skip that fact
Very dope, gonna binge all of your crosscut material
I watched this video three times haha. I'm a total novice. The explanation is excellent, very thorough, and in terms that laymen can understand. Which leads me to believe that I'm below a layman haha, because I'm going to watch it again. I have to go get my saws though and look at the teeth while I'm watching haha. Thanks for the tutorial though, very informative!
This is such a wholesome video, and I feel so bad because I'm here to refresh my knowledge on saws for my forensic anthropology final... Regardless, thank you for being so comprehensive!
I came here because I am watching a trial. Lol
You and I both, McCool!
"Someone" 😡🥷🏻 just out of view of my security camera cut down one of my trees. Since I am not an expert in hand-saw kerf marks, here I am!
thanks for simplifying the explanation. I needed to explain it to a youngen, and it's easier to let yo do it. I would imagine most people these days wouldn't know there are such saw a saw is a saw to most.
so true. most have no idea!
Learnt it the hard way today in the forest
perfect. explained in 2 minutes. you sir, got a new subscriber
That's a really good explanation - thanks for taking the time to put that together.
thanks! I am glad you like it. it was a topic that confused me when I first started.
Very good video. Most ppl that try to explain the difference between the saws usually either don't have the saws with them or show very low or just flat out poor quality video so you can't see the blade pattern. It was also a bonus to have you give the quick run down on the sharpening angles. Now you need to do a video of tooth setting.
+John Burkitt I was about to do video on setting the teeth but my 42 broke. I just picked up 3 more last weekend. that is on my list! thanks for the great complement!
Thanks for this. Have always been confused about identifying which of my saws are rip or cross cut. This was very helpful! Subbed
+Michael and Jessica Marrinan Thanks That is the best complement I could possibly receive!
I have an old two man combination cross-cut saw hanging up in my garage, most likely from 1900. It has two cross-cut teeth and a double sided rip tooth. The teeth are about 40mm deep. Sad to say it is very rusty..
Very clear, short and to the point. Seen a few videos about this topic but must admit I get lost in the amount of information and details. Thanks!
Was just wondering where the set of the teeth comes in.
+Nearoth Whe I was first looking into hand saws this question drove me nuts! I did this more to answer my own frustration. LOL The set is basically the same between the two.
+Wood Wright makes sense. you'd want a wider kerf on both cuts than the width of the saw.
You mentioned the angle for cross cuts between 45 and 10. Would you say that would also depend on the type of wood? And what would be the reasoning behind it... steeper angle = sharper edge for harder woods?
Sorry if I turn the comment section into a conversation :-)
The difference in angle is all up to the user. a steeper angle gives you a sharper cut but they dull quicker. Most manufacturers put it around 10-15 but I have no problem sharpening so I like it a bit steeper.
This is a great explanation for hand saws, but I have the same question for circular saw blades. There are only framing, combo and finish (and ultra finish) blades, but that only seems to indicate the number of teeth. I can't find a blade marked rip or crosscut.
For power saws there are other things that come into play. High speed cutting is a very different beast.
@@WoodByWright Ok thanks for that.
James, could you go over the different types of saws to use for different types of wood? I know that a cross cut saw would be for going across the grain, and a rip saw for going with the grain, but when would you use a saw with more teeth per inch vs. a saw with fewer teeth per inch?
I do have a few videos talking about different types of saws but when it comes to size of teeth it's a fairly simple matter that bigger teeth cut faster but leave a more ragged cut. Smaller teeth cut slower but leave a cleaner cut. so if you're doing joinery and you want a nice clean cut then you want something with small teeth. Or as if you're ripping a board to size and it doesn't matter too much cuz you're going to go at it with a plane in a minute then bigger teeth allow you to cut through it quicker.
Yes --I agree ---angle grinder is not exactly a fine triangular file ---maybe have to be very careful ?
Thank you so much for putting out this video. I was also so very confused about this! This is much clearer now!!!
+Al Gauthier glad I could help Al
Thanks, James! I'd love to see a video on sharpening dovetail saws.... :)
I think I might do that. I have a dovetale saw that needs to be sharpened.
Simple and clear explanation. Thanks.
Which type of saw would you recommend me to cut tree limbs ( some are quite thick) or even trees ( small) ?
I'm interested in which one cuts faster, no matter the effort....
Thank you !
Do that you probably want a limb saw. That's a different type of cross cut. It also has rakers that help remove the chips when they've been cut. If you want to go traditional the saw you use is a buck saw. But they're all a modified version of crosscut teeth.
@@WoodByWright Thank you very much, so crosscut is the way !
Now that I know the difference between them I would like to know if you have any opinions on a couple good saws for beginners? Thanks and great explanation!
+Josh Millar Thanks! well that depends on what you want to do. I think the best all around is a 10 TPI Crosscut panel saw around 24" that is fine enough you could do fine cuts but big enough you can cut lumber. and it is eraser to rip cut with a cross cut saw then the other way around. but the truth of the matter is I have never spent more then $5 on a saw (other then 2 Special back saws) you can get old saws for nothing at antique shops and sales. Does that answer your question!
That seems to help a lot! Thank you very much!
Any time! thanks for the great question!
I got to watch this again. Question I had in mind is if it is necessary to have automatic tools such as circular saw instead? Let’s say to cut horizontal (against the grain of a 2x4, 4x4, etc.) in an exaggeration of every inch. And, I’m only guessing, based on the video a cross cut saw would do that kind of work?
When do you use a crosscut and when do you use a rip saw? I now know how to sharpen them, but I still don't know if I need both? Is one for cutting across the grain and the other with the grain? Is one for had wood and the other for soft? Does one leave a larger groove? Does one cut quicker? Does one cut finer?
A cross cut is for cutting across the grain. A rip cut is for ripping the board or cutting with the grain. in general rip teeth tend to be a little bit larger than their counterparts for the same cut. Also in general cross cut teeth tend to leave a slightly cleaner cut than rip cut teeth. You can use either saw for either operation but they each work better in their own particular use.
My dad would be unhappy that I 'had' to watch this. Hopefully he'd be happy that I 'did' watch it. Watching the sharpening videos next.
While shopping for saws I see a variety in the number of teeth per inch when comparing a given type of saw. Would you consider a video on when you might use higher teeth count to lower teeth count? Possibly one comparison for Rip cut saws and a second comparison for cross cut saws.
I might have to do that in the future. I go into it a bit in this video th-cam.com/video/1cK-xN2uAUI/w-d-xo.html but basicly the bigger the tooth the faster the cut, but the smaller the tooth the cleaner the cut so you have to balance that. Also, the thinner the board the smaller the tooth you want.
**Attempts to crosscut with a rip saw. Upon contacting the wood, blade instantly shatters.**
"NANI?!"
Excellent explanation.
Thank you.
Fantastic video - great descriptions!
Thank you very much for being concise
my pleasure.
Thank you! Finally a clear explanation!
Glad I could help!
Very Interesting n informative analysis of types of cut. It will aid in my DIY knowledge n future projects. Kudos for upload. New subscriber because of this vid. Anticipating ur next one. Peace
Thanks. That means a lot. Most of the teaching videos are now on the second channel. Wood By Wright How 2 I had to split them up due to the TH-cam algorithm.
Wonderful as always.. question though.. when sharpening a rip saw do you introduce “set” or are all the teeth in line with one another?
Yes. Set is used on all teeth on almost all saws. With the exception of flush cut saws and some fine detail saws.
Loved the truly "scientific" explanation; will never forget it because of that! QUESTION: At 2:42, you say something about the teeth not being in the same plane at times. Would you mind explaining: a.) Is the sole purpose of staggering alternate teeth in two different planes to make the cut wider for easier cutting? and b) Is that optional on either of the two saws or is it more common on one type? Thank you for the wonderful video!!
"Set" on a saw id the teeth sticking out wider than the plate of the saw. this keeps the saw from binding in the cut and makes it easier to turn the cut. the more set you have the easier it is to turn the cut, but the wider the cut is and the more work you have to put into it. almost all saws have set with the exception of some Japanese saws, and flush cut saws. does that answer the question?
Yes it does. Your explanation is also very elegant (use of the right words). Thank you!
Thanks. glad I could help!
really lovin your channel
That is a very good explanation. Now i can recognize what i pick up. Thanks!
glad I could help. thanks for watching!
If I am correct the saw that I have was at one point a rip saw, it is now a cross cut saw that I can use when I am out in the woods I now have a couple things to do to finish fixing it, I need to clean the saw up on the sides with Emri cloth and put a new handle on it
sounds like a fun toy
What type of hand saw do you recommend for cutting plywood?
Crosscut as you are always cutting across some fiber.
And what is the best to use for beginners?
One of them is not better for beginners than the other. They just work better in different situations.
Thank you very much!!
best explanation ever
thank you. that means a lot to me. this was something I was confused about when I started.
I love the diagram. thanks so much
Have you made a vid on refiling one to the other, like rip to a cross and a cross to a rip ???
I have not as it is just as simple as changing the angle of the file to the angle you want and going tell the flats on the top of the teeth are gone. the only problem is if you want to change the TPI then you got a lot of work a head of you.
Naw, I dont think I'd wanna change the tpi, that is like making it from scratch, F that.
when setting the rip cut saw and cross cut saw what number do you use on the saw set pliers
Every set of pliers is different and it all depends on the size of the tooth. The bigger the tooth the more set you put on it the smaller the tooth the less set you put on it. It also depends on a very personal setting some people like a lot of set and some people don't like much at all. so in the end there really is no correct amount. I usually say try something near the middle and then next time try a little more or a little less depending on what you want.
Thanx now i realise i have both models but covered în rust, any ideea how to restore them?
I have a few videos on that. It really depends on their condition.
Now I am wiser at 75 ! thankyou !
May Allah bless you ❤
Thanks for the video. However, it seems like you made an error when trying to explain the difference between a rip saw blade and a cross cut saw blade. It happened when you tried to illustrate the difference by placing one of the respective saw blades on top of the other respective saw blade. You said that the blade on top was a cross cut saw blade and the blade on the bottom was the rip saw blade. It seems to contradict with what followed, which seems to be accurate.
So what is the best to plywood cut it straight?
When in doubt crosscut. And for plywood, it's almost always crosscut because no matter which direction you're going, your cross-cutting some grain.
@@WoodByWright thank you very much :)
Thanks for the informative video itreally helps me,but I'm curious how to sharpen my dovetail in terms of an angle of my file,is it same as i sharpen my ripsaw at 90 degree angle? More power and thanks...robert from philippines...
most people make the dovetail saw a bit of a hybrid at around 80 degrees. I generally file it at 90 just because it is primarily a rip saw and I do not see an appreciable difference in blow out between the two. so experiment and see what you like. there is no wrong way.
Thank your sir for your reply,have a nice day..
I’m looking for a saw that I can pack into the backcountry and saw 8 to 10in trees to build a cabin! I’m only going taking one pack and one saw so it needs to be a good all rounder preferably around 26” in length for packweight purposes! since I won’t just be able to run to the hardware store for supplies it will also need to be a saw that I can simply sharpen when it gets dull! (What is the perfect hand saw for this?) I’ll have an axe, chisels, file, rasp and etc! Just want a reliable saw that won’t fail me!
Nice. I would look for a Distin all that was made before 1950. Something around a 6 PPI Crosscut. It won't be easy fastest for large logs but it is small enough that you can still use it for most of the joinery work you'll need
Perfect! Thank you!
thank you
I was wondering if you could help me? I was shopping for Hand saws and they were not calling them cross cut, or rip cut. they were calling them medium cut, and fine cut. is that a new term they came up with or what. im very confused. maybe there hybrid saws I'm thinking I just don't know. Maybe you do.
If you are looking a store at new saws they are all hardened teeth (can not be sharpened) and they are all cross cut saws. they do not sell woodworking saws in stores anymore unless it is a specialty store. medium and fine are talking about the size of the tooth. and how aggressive they cut. they are designed for carpentry and framing
@@WoodByWright oh okay I was wondering why they marked them that way. Thanks for your help.
@@WoodByWright I mostly know how to use power tools for woodworking anyway. I was just hoping I could cheat and buy handsaws over a circular saw. Because it's cheaper than buying a circular saw plus the blades you'll need. I do like the draw of hand tools. I like to fallow and enjoy watching your chanal. I hope to buy hand tools and do wood working in the future. But for now I'm focusing on power tools. You can still even make dove tails with power tools. I'm so sad to not see wood worker even make any kind of strong joinery any more. My cabinet teacher in the trade school I'm going to still uses dados for cabinets. And dove tails for drawers if customer will pay were building for. But a lot of wood workers are convincing other wood workers to abandon old fashioned joinery even there faster machined versions. It's quite sad.
Hello! Could someone please tell me what are those hanging on the wall on his back left ? The long wooden sticks with "teeth" and metal on their edge? I got some in my basement but I don't know their usage. Appreciate it.
I beleave you are referring to the beam clamps. They are the older version of a pipe clamp. Extreamly strong and a ton of fun to work with. If you have them you are lucky! They are hard to find.
Wood By Wright Thank you so much for the response and for the information! Now I can finally make a good use of them!
Thanks that’s a good explanation 👍
My pleasure
In what case would you use each saw?
a cross cut saw id for cutting across the fibers. where a s ripping cuts along the fibers. does that answer your question?
Hey great video and awesome channel. I really love your work... I have a question ... I have a 20 inch saw that is 7 tpi induction hardened teeth. Pattern looks like a cross cut pattern as per your drawing. When turning the saw to look down the edge of the blade I can see every other tooth is oriented in the opposite direction of the 1 before and after it. Creating about a 1/16 inch wide cut... What would you recommend I primarily use this saw for? To get the best out of it and longest life out of it? ... Your help is much appreciated and really, thanks for the great vids!!! Always clear and educational. I learn alot from your channel ;) cheers
Thanks. That's light bends to the teeth is called set. That allows you to turn the blade a little bit in the cut as well as helping to keep the saw from binding up while moving in the cut. It sounds like you were describing a small panel saw. Often that is used for cross-cutting stock after it has been rough shaped. Not the saw you would want to use for a final finishing cut but not big enough to use on large pieces of lumber.
Thanks alot for that... much appreciated :)
Hi m8, which cuts with a clean cut, which is for what type of wood?
clean cut depends on the size of the tooth. they can both cut a clean cut. they both will work in all kinds of woods. there you want to chose a saw depending on tooth size as well but that matters far less and most people will not tell the difference other than bigger cuts faster.
@@WoodByWright Thanks m8
thanks very helpful
Thanks very much!
my pleasure!
Wow really appreciate you!!!
Thanks. That means a lot.
my question is which is better for a hard wood?what the reason the saw keep stuck onto wood when sawing?
They are both used for hard and soft. Rip saw versus cross-cut saw is referring to which orientation you're cutting the board. For a saw there really isn't any difference between hardwood and softwood. The bigger the tooth the harder it is to push but the faster it cuts The smaller is the tooth the easier it is to push and the finer the cut but the slower it is to cut. That holds true across all types of wood. Most of the time when the saw gets stuck in the wood it is because the wood is relaxing and pinching the blade You can fix that by adding more set to the teeth or by waxing the plate so that it moves easily through the wood. Another problem that might cause pinching is if the blade has too much set on one side it will cause it to turn in the cut. This can cause the blade to pinch as well.
@@WoodByWright very well explain.thanks
Glad I could help.
Perhaps I will order a correct file--&wait many months ---or take a risk--its an old saw --terribly blunt --no real loss ?
Thank you, it really help.
my pleasure
Thanks for the good explanation appreciate it.
thanks. this was something that confused me when I first started.
Thanks mate. Just subbed. Good, succinct info.
thanks my pleasure!
Please, do a demonstration of the two.
+Oscar Mayorga what do you mean?
Actually show you sawing a piece of wood with each type of saw, please.
Tnks sir , good explanation
my pleasure. thanks!
Good ❤❤
And what about kerf? Very important on a cross cut saw. Ya need a tool to set it too.
The set on the saws should be about the same depending on the tooth size. How much set you want depends on your skill, the wood you want to cut, and the size of the tooth. along with other factors.
Um, the music is a bit loud and distracting! Would have been good to know which direction these saws are supposed to go. But I guess I can as a Sat Nav!
another video with you actually cutting wood with the different blades please
On my newer version I do that. This was an old one when I was trying to figure out shooting videos.
@@WoodByWright Can you share the link please. I'm new at this and I want to make a picture frame with mitered corners which means I have to cut the corners at an angle. I am going to buy a Japanese saw but I don't know which one to choose for cutting those angles on pine which is soft wood. Would I want a rip cut blade or cross cut blade for this?
Thank you.Now I am sure.Nobody else explained it as well
thanks Kevin. glad I could help.
Can I use a thin angle grinder to sharpen my large RIP SAWS ?---90 DEGREES looks easy !
It is possible to do it with a Dremel cut-off saw but it is incredibly difficult. Of the three or four dozen people I've heard. Try it. I've only seen one successfully sharpened a saw to a decent quality. The problem is the steel is not hardened steel and it's very easy to go too far and if you go too far on on one tooth then you've got to go back and do them all again.
D-I-F-F-E-R-E-N-C-E
Welcome to wood by wright. spelling is flexible here.
Was just thinking... go back to this topic and explain teeth per inch and why there's a need for multiple saws of both for differing size jobs for those watching to learn a little more...
Thanks man. Here is a video where I cover that. th-cam.com/video/jccrJ8ylv0o/w-d-xo.html
Tq sir
My Pleasure
Comment down below.
In India local carpenters do a process called ' belling the hand saw' where they tilt one tooth little right and next to little left and so on till the end. I had not seen similar in similar exotic videos like yours !!! plz opine.
We do the same here we call it setting the teeth.
@@WoodByWright Thanks a lot for letting me know the the correct terminology. BTW, this setting is one time process or needs to be done every time we sharpen a saw ???
@@independentthinker7970 That depends on the saw and how much material you take off when you sharpen it. On most saws I will only set the teeth once every four or five sharpenings.
Apologies...Tried schooling you in another video about rip saws. Then I see this. Humble retraction. :)
+flysubcompact Not a problem I am happy for the comment eather way! I just love collecting and restoring hand saws from 10" dove tale saws to 36" panel saws. I have yet to jump into full sized crosscut saws but some day I will. Do you do any wood working? Love meeting woodworkers on here and building more contacts.
I do, but only out of need. I built my house (and helped on several others). More of a rough carpenter that only does the pretty finishing when he has to. :) Don't have the patience for refined work, but I love setting the bones of a structure. I don't have many antique wood tools, but I do have a good bit of old blacksmithing stuff.
+flysubcompact now blacksmithing is an art that I HIGHLY admire. they say that is the one craft that is the beginning of all other crafts. one of these days when I get a larger shop I intend to have a blacksmithing section as well.
I'm just a hack with some cool old blacksmith tools. I do like piddling with it though. If I ever get the east wing of my barn finished, that will be my iron fab/BS shop and tractor shed.
+flysubcompact thanks! I love his channel. I think the night I first found that boat I was up tell 4am watching his videos!
BTW, great channel. Subbed. Meandered in here via SVSeeker channel.
+flysubcompact Thanks I love his channel!
Explainen my question on how to sharpen a saw
I have several videos on sharpening all kinds of saws.
What is a Difforence?
not sure what you are saying. that is what the video is about.
I was just being stupid. The title on your video says, "The Difforence Between....", so I asked what "Difforence" was.
Actually, you did a really good explanation of the saw configurations.
Oh lol I see. never was very good ay spelling! thanks
This was extraordinarily confusing, and I feel like there is a lot of helpful info here, so I will ellaborate on my confusion. You are talking about a blade on top and bottom, and you had them stacked, so I am thinking that way, not up and down my screen. I would say point to the thing you're talking about. Point to the "knife point" you refer to. Show and point to the bevel on the blade (you talk about bevels a few times, but don't show them until your drawing near the end). You started talking about files, but never said you were talking about sharpening...I assume. I hopped on here cause I learned about saws working in the shop with my dad, but I never learned about ripsaws because we would use a table saw. I never learned how to sharpen a handsaw either. I clicked this to learn first, that I knew what a ripsaw is used for (cause I had a guess, but names can be misleading), second, how to identify one, and third, anything else you might add.
right on this is one of my oldest videos. I ahve two newer ones that are a bit cleaner once I learned a bit more about making videos. thanks for the feedback.
LOL drawing confuses me.
LOL sorry!
The chisel n knife explanation threw me off.
In what way? I do appreciate the feedback!
whe
Uses off saws clearly
I think, you messed up TOP and BOTTOM saws in explaining about their teeth direction..
Pretty vague
what is?