How to sharpen a saw: th-cam.com/video/e7YsjKhqk-w/w-d-xo.html what is the difference between Crosscut and rip cut: th-cam.com/video/6RuhVhKlDcQ/w-d-xo.html What is each saw used for: th-cam.com/video/1bBijREFZPg/w-d-xo.html
Good on ya James, I really am happy for you and your success. You present a great product and seem extremely genuine and humble. I am happily 👍🏻 and feeding AL with my comments. Are you starting to hoard rasps and files to go with your killer spokeshave collection? I ask green with envy….. but seriously I could use a genuine recommendation for a durable Slim or extra slim taper file. The new Nicholson line isn’t cutting it and I am running out of the NOS eBay USA made gems like the full box of 6” XSTaper Simmons that I hide in my sock drawer so they don’t walk out of my shop. From one aficionado to another; may the grain always be rising and finish never be paint! -CY Castor (The paint thing is a joke. Every project is unique and the craftsman has the right to finish it, as much as this pains me to say, in whatever way they see fit.) But seriously, save the paint for rust prevention and artwork like Handprint Turkeys.
Honestly my opinion on saw files is by the cheapest one you can find. It's true it will not last as long but generally per saw sharpening it's most cost-effective. The best new one that I generally am good with is the baco
In Germany we call the panelsaw "Fuchsschwanz" which means fox's tail because of the wide shape and coarsely serrated teeththe. I really like this name because I think it describes the type of saw very nice 🦊
James you forgot the D17 Double Duty saw. The hybrid handsaw. Jk. It actually gives a nice aggressive, yet clean cut. It's a good conversation saw in a tool kit. I love conversation saws. Then again all my tools are conversation tools. I can talk about them all day.
I’m looking for a good miter box saw. I put it on my Christmas list. Although I’ve had it on my list last year and I ended up with a cheap saw from Menards. My family needs to see this video.
To some extent, I know that feeling. When I was promoted to O6, the same year I turned 50, I half seriously asked my wife for a used Porsche for Christmas. (I had been trying to warm her to the idea for quite some time, but with little success). Then, a few weeks before Christmas, in cahoots with my wife, my teen daughter “let slip” that “Mom was looking at cars”. I can’t tell you how excited I was. On Christmas morning….my wife, gave me a Matchbox car.
Excellent video. I wanted to ask if you know of an affordable kit to make the frame saw that is for cutting live edge boards or if you plan to make a video and/or kit. I would like to be able to cut boards by hand and I have a Dissiton one person loggers saw to cut logs prior to cutting boards. Thank you.
Here is the video where I made mine. th-cam.com/video/SC_hn3T9AqM/w-d-xo.html the kits are fairly pricy. I know a lot of people find it cheaper to buy and unwielded band saw blade, but those alone can get fairly pricy.
I really try not to worry too much about names but rather about characteristics of the saw and what it means for the functionality of the saw. Plate thickness, tooth size and geometry, set, cutting depth, length, etc. Those are, I believe, the most important thing to understand in order to make your own choices for the type of work you do. There are so many people pretending to know what the "ideal kit" of saws is, and I think it's interesting to look at them for information and inspiration, but in the end, only experimentation will get you there.
It is hard to tell the size from the video, I have a 12" (302mm) back saw, it has about 3 1/2 inches cutting depth, what type of saw is it? I also have a Bahco prize cut, medium size, I guess that would be a panel saw?
the back saw sounds like a tall dovetail saw, but it would depend on the file of the tooth. if it is rip it is considered a large dovetail saw. if it is crosscut it would be a carcass saw.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Thanks for the quick reply. I think it is a carcass, but I don't have a lot of experience with diff saws and it is hard to see the pattern on the small teeth haha. On the Bahco saw I can see it clearly at 7 TPI, they say it can handle both rip and cross cuts but the pattern looks more like a crosscut.
Great video! I just watched your video on Japanese style saws yesterday. I would be interested in any channel recommendations you have regarding larger Japanese saws. I’m thinking of what was used for stock prep from cut tree to getting into the shop. The history is fascinating to me.
Really great explanation. Now I can truly say with a straight face.....I need more saws. I'll add to my watch list and wait for the next MWTCA meeting! ;-)
I'll be talking about that a lot more next week. But basically it all depends on how accurate you want your cut to be. Sometimes you need big teeth because they work faster but the leave a more ragged cut. Sometimes you want smaller teeth that will give you a much cleaner cut. But take longer.
Thank you for that great tour of saws, very informative. I rarely use hand tools, but I might actually be interested in the frame saws? (I have a need to cut logs into usable lumber... some REALLY hard wood too...) What would you suggest? Short of a lumber mill that I cannot afford, making a frame saw or other custom made hand tool might actually do the trick?
A frame saw will do it. If it is straight grain you may be able to split it with wedges and a froe, then clean up with an ax. If you have a lot to do, I'd suggest finding someone with a bandsaw - one or two logs can be fun to cut by hand, but it is tiring. :-)
@@criswilson1140 I have a "14 inch" band saw, but I fear that even with a 3/4" blade on it, it would not do well on re-saw. (probably operator error) I have not gotten it honed in to that degree of precision, and there is too much sway, besides, the larger logs are far too much for getting onto that thing. What I am looking to do is get a log into rough sawn lumber, need only be a few feet in length, but that would do wonders for me!
A good frame saw would do the trick. As long as there's enough space between the blade and the arm for the log to fit into it. However, with any hand tool it just depends on how skilled you are at cutting a straight line. If you're having a hard time cutting a straight line with normal hand saw, then you'll have a difficult time with the frame saw.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo I have some ideas about that... getting a flat plane on one side is essential, then I can make a guide for the blade itself to make it easier to keep level. I just need to find your video on make a frame saw...
James, if I have a very good carcass saw (Veritas), but can’t yet afford a good dovetail saw, would it be a good idea to use the carcass saw to cut dovetails? Or should I use something like a hack saw? Thanks for the great explanatory video!
Theoretically with a new saw, there's nothing that needs to be set up. As long as the plate is straight and the teeth are sharp, it's good to go. Everything else is just personal comfort.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo is just that the rip one has a tendency to deviate to the left every single time. The crosscut it is fine. I would say that it is me if I would have deviation on both sides. But it is left every time.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo I also wanted to thank you for getting me in to hand tools. I am an morning person, and being able to have fun in the shop at 05.00 am without worrying about the noise it is priceless.
I can think of a difference between Japanese vs western saws. One can last a 100 years the other is lucky to last a 100 hours. Perfect example the one in the video looks to have a broken tooth, as woodworkers and craftsmen just the environmental impact of throw away saws is all you need to know about which one is better. Just my opinion.
@@bladen0869 I suppose 99% of western saws are throw away too. It is weird that the unsharpenable Japanese saws have penetrated the hand tool woodworking market though I have to admit. I have a couple, but they get limited use as I actually quite enjoy sharpening my western saws. It's part of the whole hand tool experience in my opinion.
@@ricos1497 you’re right in the fact most new cheap western saws are impulse hardened junk. I should be clear be it any throw away saw I have no interest, that’s just my feelings. I agree with you sharpening your own tools and maintaining a keen edge is a very rewarding side of hand tool work. Using throw away tools seems to go against what it is we’re trying to do, preserving the craft and creating things to last.
I am a saw doctor who manufactured and repaired all types of hand saws in Australia I found that in manufacturing we had a whole different classification system to the consumer who was using them Tooth size, hook angle from rip to xcut to GP (general purpose) TPI, and taper ground blades with no set They were all HAND SAWS. because they had no power connected and you used your hand to use them You have opened a giant worm hole with no end to it Love watching your videos
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How to sharpen a saw: th-cam.com/video/e7YsjKhqk-w/w-d-xo.html
what is the difference between Crosscut and rip cut: th-cam.com/video/6RuhVhKlDcQ/w-d-xo.html
What is each saw used for: th-cam.com/video/1bBijREFZPg/w-d-xo.html
I would love to see that follow up video with uses for each. Some of those it would be great to see in use, particularly in the frame saw category
So is a hacksaw a frame saw? What is your opinion on using a hacksaw for joinery for those on a tight budget? Viable or is there a better option?
Yup it is held in tension
See, saw, have seen.
Saw, sawed, have sawn.
English is weird.
Good on ya James, I really am happy for you and your success. You present a great product and seem extremely genuine and humble. I am happily 👍🏻 and feeding AL with my comments.
Are you starting to hoard rasps and files to go with your killer spokeshave collection? I ask green with envy….. but seriously I could use a genuine recommendation for a durable Slim or extra slim taper file. The new Nicholson line isn’t cutting it and I am running out of the NOS eBay USA made gems like the full box of 6” XSTaper Simmons that I hide in my sock drawer so they don’t walk out of my shop.
From one aficionado to another; may the grain always be rising and finish never be paint!
-CY Castor
(The paint thing is a joke. Every project is unique and the craftsman has the right to finish it, as much as this pains me to say, in whatever way they see fit.)
But seriously, save the paint for rust prevention and artwork like Handprint Turkeys.
Honestly my opinion on saw files is by the cheapest one you can find. It's true it will not last as long but generally per saw sharpening it's most cost-effective. The best new one that I generally am good with is the baco
In Germany we call the panelsaw "Fuchsschwanz" which means fox's tail because of the wide shape and coarsely serrated teeththe. I really like this name because I think it describes the type of saw very nice 🦊
My grandmother was German. She used the word schwanz in a very different way.
James you forgot the D17 Double Duty saw. The hybrid handsaw. Jk. It actually gives a nice aggressive, yet clean cut. It's a good conversation saw in a tool kit. I love conversation saws. Then again all my tools are conversation tools. I can talk about them all day.
I’m looking for a good miter box saw. I put it on my Christmas list. Although I’ve had it on my list last year and I ended up with a cheap saw from Menards. My family needs to see this video.
To some extent, I know that feeling. When I was promoted to O6, the same year I turned 50, I half seriously asked my wife for a used Porsche for Christmas. (I had been trying to warm her to the idea for quite some time, but with little success). Then, a few weeks before Christmas, in cahoots with my wife, my teen daughter “let slip” that “Mom was looking at cars”. I can’t tell you how excited I was. On Christmas morning….my wife, gave me a Matchbox car.
Awesome, James! Thanks a lot! 😃
Hand tools, including saws, are next in my wishlist!
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Once again, I have learned much from your video! Thanks!
I'm glad to say I "saw" your video
If you close the video before the very end, you saw no good portion of this video.
I'd love to see those specialty saws you mentioned. I always enjoy when you show off a cool or unique tool
Excellent video. I wanted to ask if you know of an affordable kit to make the frame saw that is for cutting live edge boards or if you plan to make a video and/or kit. I would like to be able to cut boards by hand and I have a Dissiton one person loggers saw to cut logs prior to cutting boards. Thank you.
Here is the video where I made mine. th-cam.com/video/SC_hn3T9AqM/w-d-xo.html the kits are fairly pricy. I know a lot of people find it cheaper to buy and unwielded band saw blade, but those alone can get fairly pricy.
I've got two saws about the size and shape of a carcass saw, but neither of them has a back to strengthen them. Should I just call them spineless? ;)
Wow those are small panel saws.
I really try not to worry too much about names but rather about characteristics of the saw and what it means for the functionality of the saw. Plate thickness, tooth size and geometry, set, cutting depth, length, etc. Those are, I believe, the most important thing to understand in order to make your own choices for the type of work you do. There are so many people pretending to know what the "ideal kit" of saws is, and I think it's interesting to look at them for information and inspiration, but in the end, only experimentation will get you there.
You'll probably like the video next Thursday then.
Great video!
Thank you James. I thought I had a lot of saws, you make me feel like I am saw broke. Take care and stay well.
It is hard to tell the size from the video, I have a 12" (302mm) back saw, it has about 3 1/2 inches cutting depth, what type of saw is it?
I also have a Bahco prize cut, medium size, I guess that would be a panel saw?
the back saw sounds like a tall dovetail saw, but it would depend on the file of the tooth. if it is rip it is considered a large dovetail saw. if it is crosscut it would be a carcass saw.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Thanks for the quick reply. I think it is a carcass, but I don't have a lot of experience with diff saws and it is hard to see the pattern on the small teeth haha. On the Bahco saw I can see it clearly at 7 TPI, they say it can handle both rip and cross cuts but the pattern looks more like a crosscut.
Great video! I just watched your video on Japanese style saws yesterday. I would be interested in any channel recommendations you have regarding larger Japanese saws. I’m thinking of what was used for stock prep from cut tree to getting into the shop. The history is fascinating to me.
i have a few buck saws.
Really great explanation. Now I can truly say with a straight face.....I need more saws. I'll add to my watch list and wait for the next MWTCA meeting! ;-)
Difference between fret, coping and jewelers saws
Fret and coping are the same, just the use. jeweler's caw is it's own odd item!
Are there any suggestions on TPI when buying hand saws for joinery? I figure a guy needs (“needs”, maybe) one for rip and one for crosscut.
I'll be talking about that a lot more next week. But basically it all depends on how accurate you want your cut to be. Sometimes you need big teeth because they work faster but the leave a more ragged cut. Sometimes you want smaller teeth that will give you a much cleaner cut. But take longer.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo guess I’ll be continuing to tune in! Thanks!
I need that saw for my miter box, I picked up a aprox 50yr old one at the thrift store in April and Def need a longer saw for it.
Another absolutely lovely video James, nicely done you guys/gals🙌🏼⚡️🙌🏼⭐️
Thanks James! Just picked up a veritas carcass saw today and then just found this video!
Exactly what I was looking for, thanks G
Awesome video , waiting for my saws to come in mail , I can't wait . 👍
Thank you for that great tour of saws, very informative.
I rarely use hand tools, but I might actually be interested in the frame saws? (I have a need to cut logs into usable lumber... some REALLY hard wood too...) What would you suggest? Short of a lumber mill that I cannot afford, making a frame saw or other custom made hand tool might actually do the trick?
A frame saw will do it. If it is straight grain you may be able to split it with wedges and a froe, then clean up with an ax. If you have a lot to do, I'd suggest finding someone with a bandsaw - one or two logs can be fun to cut by hand, but it is tiring. :-)
@@criswilson1140 I have a "14 inch" band saw, but I fear that even with a 3/4" blade on it, it would not do well on re-saw. (probably operator error) I have not gotten it honed in to that degree of precision, and there is too much sway, besides, the larger logs are far too much for getting onto that thing. What I am looking to do is get a log into rough sawn lumber, need only be a few feet in length, but that would do wonders for me!
A good frame saw would do the trick. As long as there's enough space between the blade and the arm for the log to fit into it. However, with any hand tool it just depends on how skilled you are at cutting a straight line. If you're having a hard time cutting a straight line with normal hand saw, then you'll have a difficult time with the frame saw.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo I have some ideas about that... getting a flat plane on one side is essential, then I can make a guide for the blade itself to make it easier to keep level. I just need to find your video on make a frame saw...
James, if I have a very good carcass saw (Veritas), but can’t yet afford a good dovetail saw, would it be a good idea to use the carcass saw to cut dovetails? Or should I use something like a hack saw? Thanks for the great explanatory video!
The carcassaw should do perfectly fine for that. I would put it ever so slightly ahead of a hacksaw.
Nice informative video. It will be interesting (for me at least) to see a video about how to set up a new hand sow.
Theoretically with a new saw, there's nothing that needs to be set up. As long as the plate is straight and the teeth are sharp, it's good to go. Everything else is just personal comfort.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo is just that the rip one has a tendency to deviate to the left every single time. The crosscut it is fine. I would say that it is me if I would have deviation on both sides. But it is left every time.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo I also wanted to thank you for getting me in to hand tools. I am an morning person, and being able to have fun in the shop at 05.00 am without worrying about the noise it is priceless.
Nice video, thanks for sharing.
Nice explanation of the likes and differences!
Interesting that you and Mortice and Tennon drop saw videos at the same time even if theirs is just about back saws.
I saw that too lol Great minds and all
So awesome, you came out with this video minutes after mortise and tenon came out with a video on back saws!
Great minds think alike lol
So would a flush trim saw be a panel saw?
Great vid and a reminder I need more saws in my shop.
Yup. There is no back.
What happened to the dovetail video? Did you slice off your hand?
My computer died. Hopefully I'll get in the parts to rebuild it before next week and we might try that one again.
I saw this video!
Congrats on first.
I can think of a difference between Japanese vs western saws. One can last a 100 years the other is lucky to last a 100 hours. Perfect example the one in the video looks to have a broken tooth, as woodworkers and craftsmen just the environmental impact of throw away saws is all you need to know about which one is better. Just my opinion.
You can buy Japanese saws that can be sharpened. Obviously the majority aren't, but they do exist.
@@ricos1497 I know some are, but 99.9% of the ones sold are throw away saws. Western saws also are a lot easier to sharpen or recut new teeth.
@@bladen0869 I suppose 99% of western saws are throw away too. It is weird that the unsharpenable Japanese saws have penetrated the hand tool woodworking market though I have to admit. I have a couple, but they get limited use as I actually quite enjoy sharpening my western saws. It's part of the whole hand tool experience in my opinion.
@@ricos1497 you’re right in the fact most new cheap western saws are impulse hardened junk. I should be clear be it any throw away saw I have no interest, that’s just my feelings. I agree with you sharpening your own tools and maintaining a keen edge is a very rewarding side of hand tool work. Using throw away tools seems to go against what it is we’re trying to do, preserving the craft and creating things to last.
I am a saw doctor who manufactured and repaired all types of hand saws in Australia
I found that in manufacturing we had a whole different classification system to the consumer who was using them
Tooth size, hook angle from rip to xcut to GP (general purpose) TPI, and taper ground blades with no set
They were all HAND SAWS. because they had no power connected and you used your hand to use them
You have opened a giant worm hole with no end to it
Love watching your videos
01:20 @ Wood By Wright How 2 - minor nitpick but it's not a "Ryobi" (the power tools brand) but a "Ryoba".
Technically, the coping, fret, etc. are harp saws. The frame is fixed and tension is applied directly to the web.
why must one always come up with a japanese saw ? can't you just leave 'emm out of the comparisons please ?
It would be unfair not to include them as well. Wouldn't want someone to feel left out lol