Kennebec Saws - www.kennebecsaws.com/ Difference between Ripsaw and crosscut saw - th-cam.com/video/6RuhVhKlDcQ/w-d-xo.html It is an old video! Files I use - www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=69854&cat=1,43072,43086&ap=1 File guide I use - www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=70465&cat=1,43072,43086 Making a saw vice - th-cam.com/video/3HWeHRU-OWM/w-d-xo.html
Hi I love your videos it teaches me a lot thanks anyways.. I have a saw to it's a hand saw and I can only just use it one way to Sasa wood and the way I can use it it's just pulling it up I tried to push it down to saw her into the wood and I couldn't do that so I don't know what the problem is what do you think what the problem would be???? Tanks
Whilst looking through the piles of wood at my local second hand store a random stranger walked up to me and asked what I was going to use the wood for, we ended up having a whole conservation about planing, sharpening and he taught me to always sharpen towards the handle and I've worked like that ever since
Nice. There's a lot of people who really hold strongly to that. And there's just as many people who will hold just a strongly to going opposite direction. Once you find something that works for you that's the key.
What a difference! With an old 1950s panel saw, that probably hadn't been sharpened since that time, i decided to conduct an experiment. Prior to sharpening, i took 10 strokes through a piece of hard maple (rip cut). I didn't even make it through the end grain. The actual kerf into the long grain was 5/8" in length and each stroke was difficult. After following James' video, Same saw, same piece of maple: 10 strokes and my cut was 1-3/4", and the saw just sailed through it. That's nearly 3X's the progress as with the dull saw with the same number of strokes. Thank you James!
Excellent video James 👍🏻 I have an excellent tip 😁 that I was given from one of the old guys at work - if you clean off any buildup or tree sap, or whatever might be on your type of blade - and then take a coloured marker (I like to use red) and run it across each tooth, so that when you are sharpening you can see the flat spots very easily, and how many passes you might need to make to remove all the red. I was most impressed, amd it saves a lot of time and eye strain! Keep up the good work I will continue to follow your great lessons!
This is what I needed to know! I just found a beautiful probably 100 year old Disston on the curb while riding my bike through the hood. Some don’t know what they throw!
I loved the video. Thanks for cutting out the need to stress over the high level of detail that may be important in more expensive saws. I’m not of a younger generation but the amount of detail still in this process made me want to just go buy another saw and not spend my limited time on this one thing. Thanks again.
I just want to say I very much enjoy your videos. I'm new to woodworking, and have been looking to move more towards hand tools. Your explanations are very clear and have helped me understand what I'll be getting into. Please keep up the great work.
Agreed! I'm in the same boat. I recently raided my Grandad's old tool shed and picked out a couple of saws probably from the 60s or 70s. They're not in the best shape, but after a few of your videos I'm feeling confident in trying to restore them bac to their former glory!
I watched this video last year when you posted it. I have also had a pair of old, rusted, VERY dull, rip saws in desperate need of sharpening about that long. Today I finally got around to sharpening one of them. It was my very first attempt and took about an hour to do. On to of that, my bench choose is entirely too shallow to properly reach the heal and I don't have any of those nifty jigs so it was done freehand. After I finished, I took it for a test cut. First cut was across the thickness of a pine 1 by. 2nd was across the width of a pine 2x4... Holy cow! The cuts were almost effortless! I couldn't be happier. No more using my general purpose saw for rip cuts. Next I'm gonna change the other old saw into a cross cut saw. All freehand.
I found that your video on saw sharpening very helpful as I am new wood worker with the Australian men shed in Mortdale and it will help me saw better. thank-you
I just found a old hand saw and stanley 55 with tons of blades i need to set my saw and find a left side fence and a locking screw for the adjustable skate where the rod slides theough it attaches to that pin. Idk what its called. Oh i also just got into woodworking but so far ive found a nice collection while antique hunting here in Oklahoma. Everyone has things cheap as dirt here. Stanley 100 mitre picture frame was 59$. My vintage self powered "jigsaw" from sears roebucks and co was 12$. Saw was 8 ive seen over 30 kinds sizes shapes saws and all for less..
A quick one. If you notice after sharpening a few saws that your files hold onto the filings.... Sharpening can cause a slight magnetism over time. Getting a good electronic demagnetizer will save your files and keep them sharper longer... Even if you card the files often, the fines can stay behind and over time they will not only knock down the tips of the files cutting surface, but they will also widen and round out the valleys.
Wood By Wright true. My workshop is in the basement so I need to time it right. Apparently the file makes horrible noises.. . Well.... so says my wife. :)
Great point at 13;45. On a dovetail saw this way of sharpening; 50 - 50 , really gives the saw all the set it needs. Try cutting dovetails in wood 3/4" or less with a saw with NO set - works great and the joint slides together more easily.
Tiny little correction: I think disposable saw teeth are usually impulse hardened, using an induction heater with a little pinch point in the field lines to supply a pre-determined amount of energy to each individual tooth and letting the thermal mass of the saw plate quench it. Great video! The only thing people might be disappointed by is that I don't believe it would advance anyone's Stephen Covey-style self-help efforts.
I have a few old saws that are heirloom tools I’d like to use but am afraid to ruin. They aren’t particularly valuable; just tools that have been passed down and were cared for that I don’t want to be the one ruin. I haven’t sharpened them yet. I’ve been too nervous. I’ve watched a lot of saw sharpening videos. I don’t know if this vid is the one that puts me over the top towards finally doing it, but I feel more confident having watched this.
thanks John. that means a lot. don't worry about messing it up. no matter what you do it will be sharper when it is done. and if you really want to practice you can go and pick up a cheap $5 one at the antique shop.
Hearing you say to just go for it and that I probably wouldn't mess up a saw bad enough that it wouldn't cut, that gave me the confidence to go pick up one of my rusty dollar saws, get it cleaned up, clamped to the bench with a piece of wood, and then start filing. I filed the teeth in the wrong direction, but dammit, I was confident enough to go do it! On the bright side, I am temporarily the owner of a Western saw with Japanese sensibilities. I think of it as my woodaboo saw.
@@WoodByWright Right? Felt pretty dumb when I saw it (no pun intended) but have decided I'll just make a template for the teeth (Paul Sellers has a great technique on his blog) and then sharpen the rest the correct way, then joint it down and learn how to recut the teeth entirely. Wouldn't even think it was possible for me to do if you hadn't explained it so well, though!
Brother, you have an awesome knowledge. You should write it down and make a small How to little booklet and sell it. From A to Z. I'll be your first customer. Keep on preaching!
So James, after watching Paul Sellers, and now your video on sharpening saws, I figured might as well give it a go. I have an old Master Mechanic saw (Ace hardware brand I think) from about 40 years ago. First saw I ever bought and was severely disappointed in it so it's been hanging on a wall in the garage for years doing nothing. Thing never cut worth a darn. Now that I'm learning more about hand tools, figured it was time to try sharpening it. Never did that before on any saw. (I've always just bought the hardened tooth cheapies since then.) Well, after sharpening it with a small inexpensive file from the local Woodcraft I looked at my handiwork with a magnifying glass and found I have anywhere from no rake to about 20 degrees of rake on various teeth. Guess I really need to learn how to keep that file in the proper position. Well figures me, that can't be good! Much to my surprise, the thing cuts very well, either crosscut or ripcut. I mean really, really good. Surprised the heck out of me. Now I've got to practice this so I can get this thing sharpened properly. If it cuts this good from my poorly done sharpening, it must be capable of some really great stuff when done properly. Now I understand why people like you and Paul Sellers tout the benefit of getting old saws and learning how to sharpen them. Time to hit the local estate sales, me thinks. Thanks for the very informative video.
Thanks Don. that means more then you know. that is why I tell people not to be afraid of sharpening even with a poor job it will be sharper than when you started, and the more you do the better you get. from here on out you get to be blown away by how much better it is every time you sharpen it.
OK James, couldn't wait to try this again. So, this time I paid more attention to holding the file in the exact same position each time, and making sure all the teeth looked the same height when I was finished. Went back over a couple teeth afterwards when I noticed they were higher than the rest. Still not perfect I'm sure, but much better than the first time. It is amazing how well the saw cut, especially when you consider how many times over the years I almost just threw it out. The first cut I made curved off to the right, I remembered you talking about that possibility, so I got out a diamond plate and gave it a couple swipes on that side. Still curved to the right so gave it a couple more swipes. Almost straight now, so I made a half dozen cuts to make sure it wasn't me. No matter what I did it still curved right a bit. Took a couple more swipes with the diamond plate and now it looks to be cutting perfectly straight. I am in awe. I think as you mentioned about the burr being all on one side, the next time I will try cutting the teeth from both sides. Either way, this thing really does work well now, and I've only spent maybe an hour total. I'm blown away by how easy it really is, and what a difference it makes. This is the same AHA moment I had when I first found out how to sharpen and use a handplane properly. It truly is unreal what a difference it makes doing something well. It's kind of embarrassing really. I'm a retired tool and die maker, so precision is not a stranger to me. Just it never translated to handsaws for wood. Go figure. This really opened up a new world of how to think of this stuff to me. I have been slowly getting into hand tools for woodworking instead of only machines lately, but sharpening my own handsaws was just something I didn't do. Wasted too much time not doing it. In honor of my new favorite saw, I polished and waxed it. :-) Thank you for making this so easy.
OK, this is all your fault. :-) Bought a saw yesterday from a local estate auction. $6. Finally got the bolts off and the plate is now soaking in a vinegar bath while the handle is drying out after stripping all the crap off it. I think I'll make this one into a crosscut saw. It looks to be about 8 teeth per inch. I need to find a source for new bolts. Actually had to drill one out it was so rusted. Luckily the plate is fine with only one gentle bend at the back. More to come, I'm sure.
Thank you! This will help me a lot, I just restored an old 30-40's saw that my parents found on the attic when they were doing some renovation and were to throw away.
Very thorough video. I like the sharpening plate trick. Thanks. Pilot, eh? I had to quit flying several years ago due to a completely benign heart arrhythmia vs. a rigid doctor performing a routine FAA medical. Oh well, it wasn't a huge issue as I didn't really like flying anymore than driving a car, but it was necessary for me to get from point A to point B in 1:30 hrs in the air vs. 6:00 hrs on the highway. Stay out of the trees.
Very formative it gives me more sense to me to understand clearly how to sharpen a handsaw though I just recently found out that I actually have a kinda man skills, I love fixing any repairs needed to be done in the house, I found that my hidden talent is actually building small things made by scrap pieces which I made a cute little wagon for my bike, but buying handsaw's at a time whenever it gets dull isn't really practical ( money wise) which why would I use scrap pieces for to save some money, or oh yah what the heck like I always tell my kids it'll maybe can help to save our nature if everyone doesn't thrown things away, just maybe for curiosity, I wanna know if there's any of your videos for basic tools for the car as well, not to mention I myself a So is the mechanic for my car, it works any how I can save up and which your video I just watched you just help me save Extra $ to keep buying handsaw, I've watch a lot of videos and the handsaw I just bought last two weeks ago front teeth are all worn out, too many videos I've watched too much talking made me fall asleep and so confusing instructions it drives me nuts and made me so irritated cause I've to buy another one.. thanks a lot :)
Thank you for this wonderful video.I have bunch of questions for you 😀 1)Do we have to joint the saw before every sharpening? 2)I watched Chris Gochner’s video about saw sharpening and he jointed and sharpened a saw twice.What’s the reason of that? Thanks
I usually do joint all the teeth as the ones in the middle get more wear, but some people do it every other time. some people get really picky about sharpening and will do it once and call it shaping the teeth then a second time and call it sharpening. some will also go onto finer grit files as well. for me I find the benefit of it so slim that it is not worth the time.
I been saw sharpening for many years i even have an automatic filer i get some that need jointing, the teeth are uneven, including circuler saws. once thats done then i sharpen them and then set. Now since most hand saws are cheaper, i only do them in bulk 2 to 3 or more, otherwise it doesn't pay.
I have never ever thought about sharpening my saws but new they needed it you have just got my attention on that again and I will give it a shot. Thank you so much for your videos!
Great video thanks James. What I would love to see in the crosscut video is an evaluation of whether it is better to get a vintage sawset, or if there are modern manufacturers you could reccommend. I think the veritas set looks great and I was interested in whether you'd suggest getting their saw set's?
La verdad mire el video para ver si en realidad sabias afilar un serrucho, yo no se absolutamente nada de ingles, pero si se afilar serruchos y la verdad te califico con un 10, afilado perfecto, no miré que lo trabaras pero igual a lo mejor ya lo habias trabado, soy fanático de las herramientas y bonito serrucho lastima que por aquí ya dejaron de venderlos de ese tamaño, saludos cordiales desde Culiacán, Sinaloa.
Just realized, the tape gives more contrast as you work. Good thing my wife assured me my eyesight has gotten worse now that I’m 60 … she of course is still 29 (with some years of experience) 😂
I hope you explain clearly how to keep track of fleam settings on the Lee Valley file guide when flipping sides of the saw on cross cut saws. When I flip the saw end for end to file the other side I always have trouble thinking through how the fleam angle setting on the file guide should be set. I seem to be geometry challenged with the guide;, a rule of thumb to memorize would help.
Great video, clear and easy to understand. Thank you. I do have one question regarding gents saws and dovetail saws. how do you set them? as I can only find a Saw tooth setter that goes up to 15tpi and some of these saws can have many more teeth per inch than that.
you can file down the hammer on a set to do those small teeth. that is one of the reasons I do not have anything finer than 16 PPI I just do not have a use for it. and I have not noticed much difference in cut quality.
Wood By Wright thank you. These sort of videos are great. I am an experienced carpenter but I have been drawn more and more to older tools that you don't throw away and these tools are invaluable.
Thorough explanation. Thank you; I’ve got a lot of work to do now… And speaking of rake, I’ve got to search if you have any such thorough videos on determining rake and splay in chair legs… P.S. I like that your shop looks like you actually work in it.😁
I read the book "Keeping the Cutting edge Setting and Sharpening hand & power saws. By Harold Payson. Nice short 📚. He highly recommend white distilled vinegar to remove dirt. With my favorite trick a ball of tin foil and the thick green scruby works 💪 👍
I’m wondering what do you think is the most versatile saw type to buy for a first timer? I have a carpenter big box style hand saw but I’m looking to get something more useful to woodworking. What would you recommend as a good saw to look for or invest in to start?
I like to keep the saw finish smooth and slippery. I use car wax or furniture wax. Is there something better for saws that are not used often? Like a silicone oil.
Sharp video ! Pun intended as well as another good video i was a Carpenter/ Woodworker my whole life when i was. In my 20s and 30s I. Gave away a lot of my old hand saws because of downsizing and going thru life issues I could kick myself now. But i try not to cry over spilled milk ? Although i. Do have. A large amount of appreciation. For old tools like quality hand saws , planes. And chisels among others ive found every one of your videos not only entertaining but educational as well i am between shops at the moment but i do hope to set my next one up similar t what you have set up. In the videos in order to do a lot of handwork as now i have my very first Grandchild to build girlie things for that could possibly be treasured for many years
many thanks for this video!! When i encounter a tooth with a big flat what i ahve exactly to do? I often press the file against the big tooh trying to save the smaller tooth...am i wrong?
Yes. That is the correct way to do it. Just make sure you're pushing the big tooth the correct direction. You want to keep it centered between the tooth in front and in back of it. So sometimes you have to take material off the front of the tooth and sometimes you have to take material off of the back of the tooth
Not really well. He would want to bounce around on you and you would have a hard time finding one with the right shape. A file would be much faster than trying to hold a Dremel steady.
Great video, I didn` t know about this type of guides filing guides. I` d like to ask whether or not you confirm that a panel or hand saw requires a dead- flat profile?
Sorry What do you mean by dead- flat profile. If you are referring to the fleam of the file. ( angle to the plate) then that depends on you. if it is a rip saw then keep it at 90 degrees. if it is an aggressive cross cut then turn it to around 30 degrees or so. but in the end you can do whatever you want with your saw.
@@WoodByWright James I did know about the saw dressing patterns and rakes etc. and I` ve watched your video carefully. I` m asking about something different: The saws due to usage tend to wear on certain areas (nose vs. heel) much faster than others resulting in a curvature in the profile. Basically I have some old saws which have a belly and probably uneven depth of teeth: should I take them all down ( and re-cut) to get the teeth aligned and the profile straight? (Ordinary sized panel and handsaw).
@@alexzioek9680 If your saw has a belly, it means that the saw wasn't jointed flat prior to sharpening. If the belly is pronounced, it reduces the effectiveness of the saw. It may still work, but not as efficiently as it could.. Proper mechanics of hand sawing should have everything in a general straight line.
@@alexzioek9680 Another place to ask questions like yours and to post pictures is the Wood by Wright Hive Mind on Facebook. Lots of like minded individuals who are happy to answer these questions
thank you James. when i see dull cutters i really miss the shop ( tool grinder ) i had access to on the sub - tender i was on in the 70s lol how ever it would not of done the hand saws you show . if its not one thing its another
Keeping good care of my saws is a problem. They rust, they get build up on the sides. They have a ruff life in the weather. What should you coat the saws with when they deal with rain and snow?
if they are out in the weather then there is not that much you can do other then to keep them constantly waxed and dry as possible. usually I use paste wax to keep mine lubricated for cutting and that alone protects them, but if they are out in the weather that is a whole nuther ball of wax!
Have you ever sharpened a Felling or Bucking saw? If so.. do you have a video of it? If not.. Who or where can I see how it's done? And are the same types of files used as for the hand-saws?
how often do you find that you need to sharpen your saws? I have a couple of Veritas saws that I've had for a couple of years. I'm afraid to use these as my first sharpening experiment. guess I need to find a flea market.
I like your video. I want to ask you. How will I sharpen the saw ( the brand is Stanley saw) ? I try to sharpen it several times but the file just slids away it doesn't sharpen the saw. Please help me to sharpen this Stanley saw because I bought it with big money. Thank you God bless
I'm assuming you bought it new. In that case, it's a hardened teeth and you cannot sharpen it. They are intended to be disposable. Feel free to send me an email with pictures and I can verify that.
I live in Japan and every saw I buy is a pull saw. (Boy did I think they were dull as butter knives when I first used em). So quick question. Would these techniques work equally as well just with the plate flipped around (front to back to address teeth direction)?
@@WoodByWright Cool! I am an A&P of 28 years. From airliners to 150s, specializing in Bonanzas. I soloed but can't justify the expense. A Champ would make it more possible. Thanks again for the info.
My grandfather also owns Bonanza but I have not had the reason yet 2 get high power complex. I'm hoping someday to buy a powered parachute but we'll see
@@WoodByWright Flying Bonanzas is quite addictive. My favorites are the V35 and V35A models (1966-67) but from 1947 until 2018 I don't think they built a bad one!
I have a veritas dovetail saw and tenon saw. The dovetail is rip cut, the tenon saw is crosscut. The dovetail has cut both pine and oak like a hot knife through butter in both crosscut and rip, but the tenon saw is a nightmare. It's hard to start and regularly catches and stops during a cut and it wanders. Granted it was a manufacturing second I bought during Lee valley's black Friday sale. Any tips?
Great looking clogs, did you engrave them? I want some, do you have a link?. Cancel that, I found your video about carving them. Liking your hand saw sharpening video"s too, putting it to use today.
you will be hitting one side slightly more then the other. the idea is to put all of the force strait down. with the teeth racked slightly forward you will be hitting the back of the tooth slight more then the front of the other.
@@WoodByWright thanks! My first attempt at an old tenon saw didn't go so well. My teeth are all over the place and will need to be reset by the time i reshape them. Will try again in a few days.
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Kennebec Saws - www.kennebecsaws.com/
Difference between Ripsaw and crosscut saw - th-cam.com/video/6RuhVhKlDcQ/w-d-xo.html
It is an old video!
Files I use - www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=69854&cat=1,43072,43086&ap=1
File guide I use - www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=70465&cat=1,43072,43086
Making a saw vice - th-cam.com/video/3HWeHRU-OWM/w-d-xo.html
Hi I love your videos it teaches me a lot thanks anyways.. I have a saw to it's a hand saw and I can only just use it one way to Sasa wood and the way I can use it it's just pulling it up I tried to push it down to saw her into the wood and I couldn't do that so I don't know what the problem is what do you think what the problem would be???? Tanks
Sx8
Sx8 l
Whilst looking through the piles of wood at my local second hand store a random stranger walked up to me and asked what I was going to use the wood for, we ended up having a whole conservation about planing, sharpening and he taught me to always sharpen towards the handle and I've worked like that ever since
Nice. There's a lot of people who really hold strongly to that. And there's just as many people who will hold just a strongly to going opposite direction. Once you find something that works for you that's the key.
@@WoodByWright I think it can be a matter of as you file the teeth you get better as you go or for some worse.
What a difference!
With an old 1950s panel saw, that probably hadn't been sharpened since that time, i decided to conduct an experiment.
Prior to sharpening, i took 10 strokes through a piece of hard maple (rip cut).
I didn't even make it through the end grain. The actual kerf into the long grain was 5/8" in length and each stroke was difficult.
After following James' video,
Same saw, same piece of maple:
10 strokes and my cut was 1-3/4", and the saw just sailed through it. That's nearly 3X's the progress as with the dull saw with the same number of strokes.
Thank you James!
I've been looking for a clear tutorial like this for a while, this is awesome, thanks so much. Will check out your others.
Excellent video James 👍🏻
I have an excellent tip 😁 that I was given from one of the old guys at work - if you clean off any buildup or tree sap, or whatever might be on your type of blade - and then take a coloured marker (I like to use red) and run it across each tooth, so that when you are sharpening you can see the flat spots very easily, and how many passes you might need to make to remove all the red.
I was most impressed, amd it saves a lot of time and eye strain!
Keep up the good work I will continue to follow your great lessons!
that's a great tip (ha ha!)--thanks for sharing!
This is what I needed to know!
I just found a beautiful probably 100 year old Disston on the curb while riding my bike through the hood. Some don’t know what they throw!
I loved the video. Thanks for cutting out the need to stress over the high level of detail that may be important in more expensive saws. I’m not of a younger generation but the amount of detail still in this process made me want to just go buy another saw and not spend my limited time on this one thing.
Thanks again.
I just want to say I very much enjoy your videos. I'm new to woodworking, and have been looking to move more towards hand tools. Your explanations are very clear and have helped me understand what I'll be getting into. Please keep up the great work.
Thanks. That means a lot. Let me know if there's anything I can help you with.
Agreed! I'm in the same boat. I recently raided my Grandad's old tool shed and picked out a couple of saws probably from the 60s or 70s. They're not in the best shape, but after a few of your videos I'm feeling confident in trying to restore them bac to their former glory!
I watched this video last year when you posted it. I have also had a pair of old, rusted, VERY dull, rip saws in desperate need of sharpening about that long. Today I finally got around to sharpening one of them. It was my very first attempt and took about an hour to do. On to of that, my bench choose is entirely too shallow to properly reach the heal and I don't have any of those nifty jigs so it was done freehand. After I finished, I took it for a test cut. First cut was across the thickness of a pine 1 by. 2nd was across the width of a pine 2x4...
Holy cow! The cuts were almost effortless! I couldn't be happier. No more using my general purpose saw for rip cuts.
Next I'm gonna change the other old saw into a cross cut saw. All freehand.
Nice. Glad I could help.
Gdcho
I found that your video on saw sharpening very helpful as I am new wood worker with the Australian men shed in Mortdale and it will help me saw better. thank-you
thanks Russel. my pleasure!
I just found a old hand saw and stanley 55 with tons of blades i need to set my saw and find a left side fence and a locking screw for the adjustable skate where the rod slides theough it attaches to that pin. Idk what its called. Oh i also just got into woodworking but so far ive found a nice collection while antique hunting here in Oklahoma. Everyone has things cheap as dirt here. Stanley 100 mitre picture frame was 59$. My vintage self powered "jigsaw" from sears roebucks and co was 12$. Saw was 8 ive seen over 30 kinds sizes shapes saws and all for less..
A quick one. If you notice after sharpening a few saws that your files hold onto the filings.... Sharpening can cause a slight magnetism over time. Getting a good electronic demagnetizer will save your files and keep them sharper longer... Even if you card the files often, the fines can stay behind and over time they will not only knock down the tips of the files cutting surface, but they will also widen and round out the valleys.
You can use a doorframe profile in the vice to hold the blade. It's less fiddling. But the jaws you made are awesome, might make a set too👍
Very good instructional video. Sharpening a saw is something every woodworker should know how to do. :)
And So relaxing!
Wood By Wright true. My workshop is in the basement so I need to time it right. Apparently the file makes horrible noises.. . Well.... so says my wife. :)
Collection of files, unless I was a woodworker I would get that but I'm occasional.
Oh, this is an instant follow! I look forward to seeing more of your content😊
Thanks this helped a lot. I just restored and sharpened some old saws for a friend.
Sweet. Love hearing about an old tool coming back to life.
Great point at 13;45. On a dovetail saw this way of sharpening; 50 - 50 , really gives the saw all the set it needs. Try cutting dovetails in wood 3/4" or less with a saw with NO set - works great and the joint slides together more easily.
Makes for a very nice smooth cut!
Smooth cut is the upside. The downside is that you absolutely must have all the angles in hand before the saw moves - there's no going back!
Tiny little correction: I think disposable saw teeth are usually impulse hardened, using an induction heater with a little pinch point in the field lines to supply a pre-determined amount of energy to each individual tooth and letting the thermal mass of the saw plate quench it.
Great video! The only thing people might be disappointed by is that I don't believe it would advance anyone's Stephen Covey-style self-help efforts.
I have a few old saws that are heirloom tools I’d like to use but am afraid to ruin. They aren’t particularly valuable; just tools that have been passed down and were cared for that I don’t want to be the one ruin. I haven’t sharpened them yet. I’ve been too nervous. I’ve watched a lot of saw sharpening videos. I don’t know if this vid is the one that puts me over the top towards finally doing it, but I feel more confident having watched this.
thanks John. that means a lot. don't worry about messing it up. no matter what you do it will be sharper when it is done. and if you really want to practice you can go and pick up a cheap $5 one at the antique shop.
Agreed, there are plenty of saws out there for $5 or less in garage and estate sales.
شكرا لك تحياتي من 🇩🇿
Hearing you say to just go for it and that I probably wouldn't mess up a saw bad enough that it wouldn't cut, that gave me the confidence to go pick up one of my rusty dollar saws, get it cleaned up, clamped to the bench with a piece of wood, and then start filing. I filed the teeth in the wrong direction, but dammit, I was confident enough to go do it! On the bright side, I am temporarily the owner of a Western saw with Japanese sensibilities. I think of it as my woodaboo saw.
LOL nice. that is a new one!a whole new body mechanic!
@@WoodByWright Right? Felt pretty dumb when I saw it (no pun intended) but have decided I'll just make a template for the teeth (Paul Sellers has a great technique on his blog) and then sharpen the rest the correct way, then joint it down and learn how to recut the teeth entirely.
Wouldn't even think it was possible for me to do if you hadn't explained it so well, though!
18:08 18:08 18:08
Brother, you have an awesome knowledge. You should write it down and make a small How to little booklet and sell it. From A to Z. I'll be your first customer. Keep on preaching!
E-x7 interesting idea. I might have to think about it.
So James, after watching Paul Sellers, and now your video on sharpening saws, I figured might as well give it a go. I have an old Master Mechanic saw (Ace hardware brand I think) from about 40 years ago. First saw I ever bought and was severely disappointed in it so it's been hanging on a wall in the garage for years doing nothing. Thing never cut worth a darn. Now that I'm learning more about hand tools, figured it was time to try sharpening it. Never did that before on any saw. (I've always just bought the hardened tooth cheapies since then.)
Well, after sharpening it with a small inexpensive file from the local Woodcraft I looked at my handiwork with a magnifying glass and found I have anywhere from no rake to about 20 degrees of rake on various teeth. Guess I really need to learn how to keep that file in the proper position. Well figures me, that can't be good! Much to my surprise, the thing cuts very well, either crosscut or ripcut. I mean really, really good. Surprised the heck out of me. Now I've got to practice this so I can get this thing sharpened properly. If it cuts this good from my poorly done sharpening, it must be capable of some really great stuff when done properly. Now I understand why people like you and Paul Sellers tout the benefit of getting old saws and learning how to sharpen them. Time to hit the local estate sales, me thinks.
Thanks for the very informative video.
Thanks Don. that means more then you know. that is why I tell people not to be afraid of sharpening even with a poor job it will be sharper than when you started, and the more you do the better you get. from here on out you get to be blown away by how much better it is every time you sharpen it.
OK James, couldn't wait to try this again. So, this time I paid more attention to holding the file in the exact same position each time, and making sure all the teeth looked the same height when I was finished. Went back over a couple teeth afterwards when I noticed they were higher than the rest. Still not perfect I'm sure, but much better than the first time. It is amazing how well the saw cut, especially when you consider how many times over the years I almost just threw it out.
The first cut I made curved off to the right, I remembered you talking about that possibility, so I got out a diamond plate and gave it a couple swipes on that side. Still curved to the right so gave it a couple more swipes. Almost straight now, so I made a half dozen cuts to make sure it wasn't me. No matter what I did it still curved right a bit. Took a couple more swipes with the diamond plate and now it looks to be cutting perfectly straight. I am in awe. I think as you mentioned about the burr being all on one side, the next time I will try cutting the teeth from both sides. Either way, this thing really does work well now, and I've only spent maybe an hour total. I'm blown away by how easy it really is, and what a difference it makes.
This is the same AHA moment I had when I first found out how to sharpen and use a handplane properly. It truly is unreal what a difference it makes doing something well.
It's kind of embarrassing really. I'm a retired tool and die maker, so precision is not a stranger to me. Just it never translated to handsaws for wood. Go figure. This really opened up a new world of how to think of this stuff to me. I have been slowly getting into hand tools for woodworking instead of only machines lately, but sharpening my own handsaws was just something I didn't do. Wasted too much time not doing it. In honor of my new favorite saw, I polished and waxed it. :-) Thank you for making this so easy.
That is sweet! love to hear it!a lot of fun to be had in your future!
OK, this is all your fault. :-) Bought a saw yesterday from a local estate auction. $6. Finally got the bolts off and the plate is now soaking in a vinegar bath while the handle is drying out after stripping all the crap off it. I think I'll make this one into a crosscut saw. It looks to be about 8 teeth per inch. I need to find a source for new bolts. Actually had to drill one out it was so rusted. Luckily the plate is fine with only one gentle bend at the back. More to come, I'm sure.
Thank you! This will help me a lot, I just restored an old 30-40's saw that my parents found on the attic when they were doing some renovation and were to throw away.
Sweet. Love hearing about a good old tool coming back to life.
8i
LOL.... Bought an antique vice like you showed and never knew what was for. Now I know!
Excellent lesson, didn't have any idea how to start sharpening a hand saw, now I do. THANKS.
Thanks. Glad I can help. Let me know if you have any other questions.
I have grandpa's saws , thanks for the video ,I won't screw them up now
Thank you very much for this awesome tutorial. I learnt a lot watching your video very diligently.
Very thorough video. I like the sharpening plate trick. Thanks. Pilot, eh? I had to quit flying several years ago due to a completely benign heart arrhythmia vs. a rigid doctor performing a routine FAA medical. Oh well, it wasn't a huge issue as I didn't really like flying anymore than driving a car, but it was necessary for me to get from point A to point B in 1:30 hrs in the air vs. 6:00 hrs on the highway. Stay out of the trees.
Oh no fun. not looking forward to the day my wings get clipped.
Very formative it gives me more sense to me to understand clearly how to sharpen a handsaw though I just recently found out that I actually have a kinda man skills, I love fixing any repairs needed to be done in the house, I found that my hidden talent is actually building small things made by scrap pieces which I made a cute little wagon for my bike, but buying handsaw's at a time whenever it gets dull isn't really practical ( money wise) which why would I use scrap pieces for to save some money, or oh yah what the heck like I always tell my kids it'll maybe can help to save our nature if everyone doesn't thrown things away, just maybe for curiosity, I wanna know if there's any of your videos for basic tools for the car as well, not to mention I myself a
So is the mechanic for my car, it works any how I can save up and which your video I just watched you just help me save Extra $ to keep buying handsaw, I've watch a lot of videos and the handsaw I just bought last two weeks ago front teeth are all worn out, too many videos I've watched too much talking made me fall asleep and so confusing instructions it drives me nuts and made me so irritated cause I've to buy another one.. thanks a lot :)
Thanks man. Sounds like a lot of fun. Keep it going!
Thanks for this video, i am from Lumajang City, East Java, Indonesia.
I like teachers and they do a great job of imparting knowledge to others.good job brother, love from india
Learn more of it.thanks . It's wonderfulll the way you explain and easy for me to copy.gracias .from Mexico city.
Thank you for this wonderful video.I have bunch of questions for you 😀
1)Do we have to joint the saw before every sharpening?
2)I watched Chris Gochner’s video about saw sharpening and he jointed and sharpened a saw twice.What’s the reason of that?
Thanks
I usually do joint all the teeth as the ones in the middle get more wear, but some people do it every other time. some people get really picky about sharpening and will do it once and call it shaping the teeth then a second time and call it sharpening. some will also go onto finer grit files as well. for me I find the benefit of it so slim that it is not worth the time.
I been saw sharpening for many years i even have an automatic filer i get some that need jointing, the teeth are uneven, including circuler saws. once thats done then i sharpen them and then set. Now since most hand saws are cheaper, i only do them in bulk 2 to 3 or more, otherwise it doesn't pay.
i knew nothing about how to sharped a saw, apart from a chainsaw.. A very well explained video. loved it. mike
Полезное видео и полезные приспособления, которые можно сделать своими руками. 👍 спасибо.
I have never ever thought about sharpening my saws but new they needed it you have just got my attention on that again and I will give it a shot. Thank you so much for your videos!
thanks! my pleasure! have fun with it!
the best video on saw sharpening I have seen so far.
Very informative. Very good presentation and detail. Thank you for your knowledge.
Wish I could give two thumbs up on this video. Great explanation of cross cut and rip saw geometry.
Thanks man. I am looking forward to today's video with a bit more detail.
Great video thanks James. What I would love to see in the crosscut video is an evaluation of whether it is better to get a vintage sawset, or if there are modern manufacturers you could reccommend. I think the veritas set looks great and I was interested in whether you'd suggest getting their saw set's?
thanks Ray! I will be talking about saw sets soon.
Very good explanation. Thank you very much Ray.
Awesome video might just give this a try! Those are woodworkers shoes!
Dude, your videos are awesome. Thanks so much!
Also, nice clogs.
La verdad mire el video para ver si en realidad sabias afilar un serrucho, yo no se absolutamente nada de ingles, pero si se afilar serruchos y la verdad te califico con un 10, afilado perfecto, no miré que lo trabaras pero igual a lo mejor ya lo habias trabado, soy fanático de las herramientas y bonito serrucho lastima que por aquí ya dejaron de venderlos de ese tamaño, saludos cordiales desde Culiacán, Sinaloa.
Gracias, eso significa mucho. Yo pude hablar más español para poder poner videos en ese idioma también.
@@WizardsNews Seria super bueno pero no te preocupes, con buena intención se entienden los idiomas, se traspasan fronteras y se hacen buenos amigos.
So much more to saws than I thought
I don't even have a hand saw... great video
Just realized, the tape gives more contrast as you work. Good thing my wife assured me my eyesight has gotten worse now that I’m 60 … she of course is still 29 (with some years of experience) 😂
I have a saw that always wants to go left, I never knew the trick with the diamond plate, I'm going to try that. Thank You.
Sweet. Have fun with it.
Thanks for the lesson. You're such a great teacher!
thanks! that means a lot!
I hope you explain clearly how to keep track of fleam settings on the Lee Valley file guide when flipping sides of the saw on cross cut saws. When I flip the saw end for end to file the other side I always have trouble thinking through how the fleam angle setting on the file guide should be set. I seem to be geometry challenged with the guide;, a rule of thumb to memorize would help.
I will be hitting on that in the next one. It actually becomes simpler the less you think about it. I have the same problem.
Great video, clear and easy to understand. Thank you. I do have one question regarding gents saws and dovetail saws. how do you set them? as I can only find a Saw tooth setter that goes up to 15tpi and some of these saws can have many more teeth per inch than that.
you can file down the hammer on a set to do those small teeth. that is one of the reasons I do not have anything finer than 16 PPI I just do not have a use for it. and I have not noticed much difference in cut quality.
Wood By Wright thank you. These sort of videos are great. I am an experienced carpenter but I have been drawn more and more to older tools that you don't throw away and these tools are invaluable.
Got me with the opening line haha
Thorough explanation. Thank you; I’ve got a lot of work to do now…
And speaking of rake, I’ve got to search if you have any such thorough videos on determining rake and splay in chair legs…
P.S. I like that your shop looks like you actually work in it.😁
Excellent video! Looking forward to watching the next one about sharpening a cross-cut saw. Cheers!
thanks man. it should be out Saturday, but I might not have that one edited tell Monday.
Thank you for nice professional explanation.
"The wood Sawyer knows his onions!"Great woodshop too.
Good use of the tape, use it to cover small magnets or a magnetic strip to collect shavings.
I read the book "Keeping the Cutting edge Setting and Sharpening hand & power saws. By Harold Payson. Nice short 📚. He highly recommend white distilled vinegar to remove dirt. With my favorite trick a ball of tin foil and the thick green scruby works 💪 👍
I’m wondering what do you think is the most versatile saw type to buy for a first timer? I have a carpenter big box style hand saw but I’m looking to get something more useful to woodworking. What would you recommend as a good saw to look for or invest in to start?
Oh. Didn't see this here too.
Ya I wasn’t sure which channels you checked and replied to
I like to keep the saw finish smooth and slippery. I use car wax or furniture wax. Is there something better for saws that are not used often? Like a silicone oil.
I just use my home made paste wax.
Sharp video ! Pun intended as well as another good video i was a Carpenter/ Woodworker my whole life when i was. In my 20s and 30s I. Gave away a lot of my old hand saws because of downsizing and going thru life issues I could kick myself now. But i try not to cry over spilled milk ? Although i. Do have. A large amount of appreciation. For old tools like quality hand saws , planes. And chisels among others ive found every one of your videos not only entertaining but educational as well i am between shops at the moment but i do hope to set my next one up similar t what you have set up. In the videos in order to do a lot of handwork as now i have my very first Grandchild to build girlie things for that could possibly be treasured for many years
Thanks Craig. sounds like a fun time ahead of you.
Saws, one of the few times you can blame the tool...great video James, thanks for sharing it.
ok come on I blame all my tools. that does not make me right but I do it!
I think we all do at times...
For storage, what kind of fluid would you use to keep the saw in a ready condition when the saw is going to sit in storage for months?
I would actually use a coat of paste wax.
many thanks for this video!! When i encounter a tooth with a big flat what i ahve exactly to do? I often press the file against the big tooh trying to save the smaller tooth...am i wrong?
Yes. That is the correct way to do it. Just make sure you're pushing the big tooth the correct direction. You want to keep it centered between the tooth in front and in back of it. So sometimes you have to take material off the front of the tooth and sometimes you have to take material off of the back of the tooth
Hi James ,Can you use a Dremel to sharpen hand saws. (Australia)
Not really well. He would want to bounce around on you and you would have a hard time finding one with the right shape. A file would be much faster than trying to hold a Dremel steady.
Great video, I didn` t know about this type of guides filing guides. I` d like to ask whether or not you confirm that a panel or hand saw requires a dead- flat profile?
Sorry What do you mean by dead- flat profile. If you are referring to the fleam of the file. ( angle to the plate) then that depends on you. if it is a rip saw then keep it at 90 degrees. if it is an aggressive cross cut then turn it to around 30 degrees or so. but in the end you can do whatever you want with your saw.
@@WoodByWright James I did know about the saw dressing patterns and rakes etc. and I` ve watched your video carefully. I` m asking about something different: The saws due to usage tend to wear on certain areas (nose vs. heel) much faster than others resulting in a curvature in the profile. Basically I have some old saws which have a belly and probably uneven depth of teeth: should I take them all down ( and re-cut) to get the teeth aligned and the profile straight? (Ordinary sized panel and handsaw).
@@alexzioek9680 If your saw has a belly, it means that the saw wasn't jointed flat prior to sharpening. If the belly is pronounced, it reduces the effectiveness of the saw. It may still work, but not as efficiently as it could.. Proper mechanics of hand sawing should have everything in a general straight line.
@@eodhowland Great thanks for your reply. Much appreciated. It was the information I was just asking for the answer is spot on.
@@alexzioek9680 Another place to ask questions like yours and to post pictures is the Wood by Wright Hive Mind on Facebook. Lots of like minded individuals who are happy to answer these questions
Fabulous and very easy to follow..... time for me to have a go and loose my knuckles lol
Good luck. Let me know if you have any questions.
I learned a lot. Thank you!
thank you James. when i see dull cutters i really miss the shop ( tool grinder ) i had access to on the sub - tender i was on in the 70s lol how ever it would not of done the hand saws you show . if its not one thing its another
Lol yup. Love the right tool for the job!
Keeping good care of my saws is a problem. They rust, they get build up on the sides. They have a ruff life in the weather. What should you coat the saws with when they deal with rain and snow?
if they are out in the weather then there is not that much you can do other then to keep them constantly waxed and dry as possible. usually I use paste wax to keep mine lubricated for cutting and that alone protects them, but if they are out in the weather that is a whole nuther ball of wax!
Great video!!! Thanks!
Have you ever sharpened a Felling or Bucking saw?
If so.. do you have a video of it?
If not.. Who or where can I see how it's done? And are the same types of files used as for the hand-saws?
Here you go. th-cam.com/video/P_fil-XUF-E/w-d-xo.html
how often do you find that you need to sharpen your saws? I have a couple of Veritas saws that I've had for a couple of years. I'm afraid to use these as my first sharpening experiment. guess I need to find a flea market.
Most are every 6 months or so. That is a great use for an old saw.
Great tutorial. Thanks
Thanks James. Really like your attention to deal and close ups...rr
thanks Richard. sometimes that is hard to see.
I like your video. I want to ask you. How will I sharpen the saw ( the brand is Stanley saw) ? I try to sharpen it several times but the file just slids away it doesn't sharpen the saw. Please help me to sharpen this Stanley saw because I bought it with big money. Thank you God bless
I'm assuming you bought it new. In that case, it's a hardened teeth and you cannot sharpen it. They are intended to be disposable. Feel free to send me an email with pictures and I can verify that.
Looking forward to the cross cut saw
I have several videos out on that now. If you search for Wood By Wright Cross-cut they should pop up for you.
#_@@WoodByWright, thank you.
Wow, you really know your stuff, and explain it well thank you. Bout time someone spoke English
I live in Japan and every saw I buy is a pull saw. (Boy did I think they were dull as butter knives when I first used em).
So quick question. Would these techniques work equally as well just with the plate flipped around (front to back to address teeth direction)?
Yup they work the same you just need different files they are more acute then the 60 degree file.
Wood By Wright hmm acute files in the land of cuteness heheh. Cheers!
Did you build the saw vise? Do you have a video on the vise build?
Yes I built that a couple years ago. I have a video on it as well if you want to see that.
Great video, but I honestly couldn't work out whether you are filing down the leading edge of the tooth or the back of it to eliminate the flat spot
both. you push straight down
Good job, thanks.
Thanks for the information. I will try this on an old ripsaw tomorrow. What do you fly?
Nice. My grand father has a Champ he let's me use, I want to build another cozy some time though.
@@WoodByWright
Cool! I am an A&P of 28 years. From airliners to 150s, specializing in Bonanzas. I soloed but can't justify the expense. A Champ would make it more possible. Thanks again for the info.
My grandfather also owns Bonanza but I have not had the reason yet 2 get high power complex. I'm hoping someday to buy a powered parachute but we'll see
@@WoodByWright
Flying Bonanzas is quite addictive. My favorites are the V35 and V35A models (1966-67) but from 1947 until 2018 I don't think they built a bad one!
Have you made a video showing how to sharpen a tree pruning saw blade?
Generally those are not sharpenable. They have hardened to teeth so the blades are intended to be disposable.
@@WoodByWright Thank you for the response. New blade it is then.
As a carpenter. I have never been so bored.....!!!!
But I didn't throw a single hole lol
I enjoyed your video thanks for the knowledge!
Thanks Adam my pleasure.
Excellent video!
thanks Timothy!
It is very helpful I shall try it sooner thanks
mr.wright, I would suggest that you have your Saw clamp under patent application excellent look and height adjust.impressive
Thanks Jesse
I have a veritas dovetail saw and tenon saw. The dovetail is rip cut, the tenon saw is crosscut. The dovetail has cut both pine and oak like a hot knife through butter in both crosscut and rip, but the tenon saw is a nightmare. It's hard to start and regularly catches and stops during a cut and it wanders. Granted it was a manufacturing second I bought during Lee valley's black Friday sale. Any tips?
sounds like there are a tooth or two out of place in the plate making it catch.
You are good teacher
You make that look so easy James nice job brother!
thanks man! it is a very meditative job!
Great looking clogs, did you engrave them? I want some, do you have a link?. Cancel that, I found your video about carving them. Liking your hand saw sharpening video"s too, putting it to use today.
thanks man! they are the best shop shoes you can get. so comfortable and protect the feet.
You covered it all so well. Ell done.
thanks Bernie!
Hi forgive ignorance please can you let me know how to tell between a rip saw and a cross cut saw.
Geoff
Here you go.th-cam.com/video/6RuhVhKlDcQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=jgChDDTitli9ZtyW
excellent lesson
When you run the file across the plate, are you trying to file both sides of the gullet with each stroke, or only one side or the other?
you will be hitting one side slightly more then the other. the idea is to put all of the force strait down. with the teeth racked slightly forward you will be hitting the back of the tooth slight more then the front of the other.
@@WoodByWright thanks! My first attempt at an old tenon saw didn't go so well. My teeth are all over the place and will need to be reset by the time i reshape them. Will try again in a few days.
Superb idea
Nice tutorial...but even nicer shoes!😏