HI Kevin, Great video, this is very similar to the Suzuki Alto/Nissan Pixo 2009~2014, just a few minor differences but it and helped me alot wit the clutch replacement on the Alto thank you for uploading it. (new subscription and thumbs up ) whats up with people not giving useful vids a like? Also I dropped the alternator out of the way so I could use a rattle gun/socket on the lower starter bolt........
Hi Kevin.........great to see somebody putting bolts back with the first turning by hand with a little bit of grease instead of all those garages driving them in with powertools......and damaging thread.......!!
And still they’re having problems with mine . Gearbox specialists have opened the gearbox and say there’s no scoring marks on the bearings so their puzzled They did say however their was very little oil in the box . They’ve had the car 2 weeks now . When the garage sends the gearbox off do they drain the oil out first or is sent oil intact ? Any advice appreciated . should I get a refund on the car ?
Wow! What a quick and professional job you did here. Really great to watch. I'm hoping this video will help me change the clutch on my Agila B this weekend. Will be donating to your PayPal for the invaluable help! Do you happen to know where I can find correct torque specs for all the bolts/nuts etc?
hehehehe....hehe...what are you doing here in the yard, almost on the street, on the ground, using a simple jack, it's simply - SHOCK !!! - absolutely professional work!! Hats off!! .... replacing the clutch is very difficult and you need to know it .... I do a lot of repairs in my Suzuki myself, but replacing the clutch is too much for me ... then you need to have experience like you you have... and you made a great video here!! I like it! .... but even for such a great video and a great tutorial, I wouldn't bother to replace the clutch disc, it's a very difficult job! .... nice greetings ... :)
Thanks for the upload! Im up to the part of separating the gearbox from the engine and ive got it off about half a centimeter but I cant get it off any further. Any tips? Thanks.
I don't know why but on these cars there is no bumper cut outs for the front chassis plinth bolts which on ours were hidden underneath (until we made some with a hole saw bit and trimmed them with cutters! Almost looks factory!) Small tip for others as it is tighter in there than it looks, great camera positions Kevin, you can remove the air box and / or front exhaust section for more room /better access to the fiddly starter and back bolts. Adds just a few minutes and the exhaust bolts are the spring tensioned versions each end which do not seem to suffer as bad corrosion as static nuts, bolts or studs. Chance to change the "doughnuts" in these exhaust joints too.
I have just bought a splash i have to fight the gear nob to get it into first gear and it vibrates when in gear. Is the clutch and flywheel needing changed or just clutch?
Hi could I offer a small tip, if you're going to reuse 'stake' type nuts swap them over, ie drivers side nut onto passsanger side and vice versa, chances are you'll end up with a fresh portion of nut to stake back into the groove on the CV joint, thanks for the great videos, happy new year...
Max .,, they very rarely come out those long spanners but really handy to have. Otherwise I would have had to strip down that whole bracket and the mount to access that one bolt. Hope you’re doing great your end .., 🍻🍻
Good work! It seemed as simple as Peugeot 107 but there are a few tricky bolts as in 8:05 ( I supposed you didn't want to remove the dampers there below) and a lot of stuff over the gearbox. I find really interesting the easy way you remove the plastic attachment for battery cables as in 13:50. Yesterday, I had to stop when trying to remove one as I didn't want break it. Was it red grease in the splines of the gearbox before removing the old bearing? Did you use a magnet in 42:50 or did it just fall down to the floor? Do you use an email for PayPal support? Thank you very much for the video!
Oscar always happy to get your feedback., the video doesn’t really reflect how compact the Engine bay is .,, The repair manual does ask to remove the back bracket to access that one starter bolt. But as you can see I have the long reach spanner that does the job of accessing that bolt. Always red red rubber grease on the spline .,, 😁😂 it was a magnet 🧲 job retrieving that socket .., I use PayPal yes. williamsmechanic@gmail.com
A massive thanks for these great videos Kevin. They have been a great resource that helped me change the clutch on my 2001 Toyota Yaris on my driveway. How do you deal with those nasty staked driveshaft nuts Toyota use? I damaged the threads on one driveshaft when removing the nut (despite my efforts to de-stake). Got away with it as the new nut just about went on, but I must have done something wrong?
That’s great to know the video came through for you .., sometimes the clamped part of the nut drives into the thread causing damage. But lucky you managed to get your one sorted. ✨✨🍻🍻🍻
Only Peugeot and a few Far East cars still does cable. But you notice the difference tho. Especially pulling off. I haven’t really seen a rear main seal leaking as of yet, they don’t usually leak unless there is movement in the crankshaft. What a lot of people mistake the rear main for is the sump seal directly underneath it.
Hi mate, can i ask another question please, do you know what torque the flywheel bolts should be for this car, and the clutch plate bolts? And when taking flywheel off, do you have to use new bolts when putting it back on? Or is it ok to put the old ones back in... My rear main oil seal is leaking so will have to take flywheel off Thx very much.
New always replace flywheel bolts. If you send me the reg I can get you all the correct torque settings. You’ll have to use another thread as I can’t see replies.
So I have further found out the gearboxes are MF60b for the petrol version and MF70c for the diesel version. But I still do not know if it is Aisin design, or Getrag etc, or Suzuki own design etc?
Hi, can i ask ur advice please.. Doing this car with a mate today, struggled getting gearbox back in, eventually it felt like it pushed through the clutch disc ok But the bottom of the gearbox is dead flush against the engine block,got the bottom two bolts in that are next to exhaust. but at the top of gearbox theres a gap from engine block...about 1cm or just less.. Does this mean weve not got the input shaft through the clutch disc splines properly.. Or is the gap at the top ok and will close up itself when putting top gearbox bolts in and tightening up?? Thank you..
Definitely the best to use for these types of work especially on the spline. As it doesn’t oxidise and won’t allow dry rust to form which is a main cause of premature clutch wear if it binds
I am about to try and do a clutch on my Suzuki splash. However, the bracket connected to the subframe that you remove from the left side of the car. I cannot get off as somebody has snapped the bolt head but there is still enough of the bolt there to hold the bracket in place. Do I need to remove this in order to get the gearbox out or is there just enough space with it still in place?
Unfortunately neither drive shaft will come out now. I have moved the subframe extension out of the way. But both driveshafts are seized. Do you think it would be possible to remove the gearbox with both driveshafts still in the gearbox?
Why i have small shaking (vibrating) while starting from first gear forward or in reverse without adding gas, so with 800 rpm i cant start to going smooth, i need to add a little gas (1000 rpm) to start going smooth...i was changed clutch set...fiat punto petrol 60 hp...
@@WMCS LUK repset is putted...can it be some mistake of mechanik due instalation of cluch set, badly installed release bearing on fork or friction disk rotated (engine side rotated to gearbox side)...i have only those small vibration when i try to start slowly only by releasing clutch pedal without gas...maybe it need little time and driving to new clutch set adapt on old flywheel?
@@WMCS ok thank you. Credits for you to replying so quickly. No need yet for our Nissan pixo (same car) but I can enjoy your videos. Straight to the point. Keep up the good work.
Can i ask please. When the gearbox is in the car is the rubber cap cover supposed to be over the gearbox Breather Hole or left off so the gearbox can breathe? Thx very much.
100K viewers and only 705 thumbs up. Kevin earns a lot more. It helps his channel and it won"t cost u a dime. Come on people, do it.
Thank you for that. Really appreciate it.
Thanks a lot Kevin. Nice to see your videos. I've successfully replaced the clutch of my suzuki splash by myself. I followed this video carefully. 🎉
How long did it take u I'm looking to do mine on the weekend
The best mechanic in UK ! Thanks for sharing ! Respect man !
You bought new jack and new keys the long version for more strength when tightening or loosening, very nice like that.
Yes new jack and new spanners. For very long reach that ratchet cannot get to.
I like your videos !! High quality, high shooting, and your powerlift !!! Thankss !!
The best mechanic 👨🔧!!! Well done 👍
good job. love these videos. right to the point and easy to follow.
An excellent step by step video which helped me replace the clutch in our 2011 Vauxhall Agila 1.2.
Thanks for the feedback
Your just amazing to watch , another great video . 👍
انا سعيد جدا بكل ما تقوم به من أعمال تخص علبة السرعة لكل سيارة، عمل ممتاز بكل المقاييس، شكرا جزيلا على المساعدة....
HI Kevin, Great video, this is very similar to the Suzuki Alto/Nissan Pixo 2009~2014, just a few minor differences but it and helped me alot wit the clutch replacement on the Alto thank you for uploading it. (new subscription and thumbs up ) whats up with people not giving useful vids a like?
Also I dropped the alternator out of the way so I could use a rattle gun/socket on the lower starter bolt........
Fantastic job all the best Shaun
Thanks Shaun. Appreciate the feedback
Thanks for the video - that was the best online!
Hi Kevin.........great to see somebody putting bolts back with the first turning by hand with a little bit of grease instead of all those garages driving them in with powertools......and damaging thread.......!!
That’s it. Makes sense don’t it.
Love these videos i watch them for hours.
Thanks for tuning in. Appreciate you supporting the channel.
this is so easy for you.
You are a real specialist.
It was quite compact and lots of little brackets. But still a nice repair
Great job, nice camera positions!
Thank you.
You are the best !!!
Thanks a lot for your great work and your shares, and all the details of your videos ! really excellent !
Thankyou
Hi.." The Clutchinator" it's not every day WE see a Suzuki car.... Nice Job mate 👍
Thanks gregos. Hope you’re doing alright mate .. ☕️
@@WMCS no mate... I'm going to hospital today
You are the best 🎉I love your videos
What a Pro: Only what is necessary, and then definitively that!
Thanks for the feedback
great and not easy work! - BRAVO!! - warm greetings from Austria...:)
Thankyou
Getting this exact repair done on my Suzuki Splash tomorrow. Easy when you know how . I'll leave it to guys like this to do it . Excellent video !
And still they’re having problems with mine . Gearbox specialists have opened the gearbox and say there’s no scoring marks on the bearings so their puzzled They did say however their was very little oil in the box . They’ve had the car 2 weeks now . When the garage sends the gearbox off do they drain the oil out first or is sent oil intact ? Any advice appreciated . should I get a refund on the car ?
Wow! What a quick and professional job you did here. Really great to watch. I'm hoping this video will help me change the clutch on my Agila B this weekend. Will be donating to your PayPal for the invaluable help! Do you happen to know where I can find correct torque specs for all the bolts/nuts etc?
hehehehe....hehe...what are you doing here in the yard, almost on the street, on the ground, using a simple jack, it's simply - SHOCK !!! - absolutely professional work!! Hats off!! .... replacing the clutch is very difficult and you need to know it .... I do a lot of repairs in my Suzuki myself, but replacing the clutch is too much for me ... then you need to have experience like you you have... and you made a great video here!! I like it! .... but even for such a great video and a great tutorial, I wouldn't bother to replace the clutch disc, it's a very difficult job! .... nice greetings ... :)
😁
SUZUKI SPLASH (INDIAN RITZ CAR, SAME CLUTCH PLAT REPLENISHMENT GOOD JOB SIR 👍👍👍
Thank you. ✨✨
Another fine job Kevin!
Hey Martin.., thanks .,, hope you’re keeping well your end. 🍻✨
@@WMCS bit quiet my end
Bravo
Great job. What oil are your draining at the beginning. Is it gearbox oil? Doesn’t seem much as this is cable clutch?
Thanks for the upload! Im up to the part of separating the gearbox from the engine and ive got it off about half a centimeter but I cant get it off any further. Any tips? Thanks.
I don't know why but on these cars there is no bumper cut outs for the front chassis plinth bolts which on ours were hidden underneath (until we made some with a hole saw bit and trimmed them with cutters! Almost looks factory!) Small tip for others as it is tighter in there than it looks, great camera positions Kevin, you can remove the air box and / or front exhaust section for more room /better access to the fiddly starter and back bolts. Adds just a few minutes and the exhaust bolts are the spring tensioned versions each end which do not seem to suffer as bad corrosion as static nuts, bolts or studs. Chance to change the "doughnuts" in these exhaust joints too.
Thanks for the valuable input.
I’m sure it will be of great benefits to a lot of DIY mechanics out there.
I have just bought a splash i have to fight the gear nob to get it into first gear and it vibrates when in gear. Is the clutch and flywheel needing changed or just clutch?
GOOD JOB
how did it go getting at the awkward bolt at back of the starter area?😃
Hi could I offer a small tip, if you're going to reuse 'stake' type nuts swap them over, ie drivers side nut onto passsanger side and vice versa, chances are you'll end up with a fresh portion of nut to stake back into the groove on the CV joint, thanks for the great videos, happy new year...
Roy thanks for that. I shall keep that in mid. It’s a very good suggestion..,
Thanks for a great feedback..,
Would you knkw where I can find a clutch cable to fit, found your video in desperation hoping to find one.
Thankyou in advance
Clutch plate didn`t look to bad , bearing looked a bit fucked, is there much adjustment in clutch cable and do you reset it when fitting new clutch.
Hola amigo me gusta tu video un saludo de madrid bmw f30 porvavor
little car big job but no problem for you tho👍, like the look of them extra long reach spanners you have kevin got to buy my self some of them buddy👍👍
Max .,, they very rarely come out those long spanners but really handy to have. Otherwise I would have had to strip down that whole bracket and the mount to access that one bolt. Hope you’re doing great your end .., 🍻🍻
@@WMCS all good buddy 😎👍
Good work! It seemed as simple as Peugeot 107 but there are a few tricky bolts as in 8:05 ( I supposed you didn't want to remove the dampers there below) and a lot of stuff over the gearbox. I find really interesting the easy way you remove the plastic attachment for battery cables as in 13:50. Yesterday, I had to stop when trying to remove one as I didn't want break it. Was it red grease in the splines of the gearbox before removing the old bearing? Did you use a magnet in 42:50 or did it just fall down to the floor? Do you use an email for PayPal support? Thank you very much for the video!
Macarons
Oscar always happy to get your feedback., the video doesn’t really reflect how compact the Engine bay is .,,
The repair manual does ask to remove the back bracket to access that one starter bolt. But as you can see I have the long reach spanner that does the job of accessing that bolt.
Always red red rubber grease on the spline .,, 😁😂 it was a magnet 🧲 job retrieving that socket ..,
I use PayPal yes.
williamsmechanic@gmail.com
Hi , great stuff! can you inform which clean liquid you use to clean the plate ? Thanks
It’s brake cleaner. Or any solvents works just as good.
Good m’y friend 👍
How did you get the firewall side tranny bracket off?
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
A massive thanks for these great videos Kevin. They have been a great resource that helped me change the clutch on my 2001 Toyota Yaris on my driveway. How do you deal with those nasty staked driveshaft nuts Toyota use? I damaged the threads on one driveshaft when removing the nut (despite my efforts to de-stake). Got away with it as the new nut just about went on, but I must have done something wrong?
That’s great to know the video came through for you .., sometimes the clamped part of the nut drives into the thread causing damage. But lucky you managed to get your one sorted. ✨✨🍻🍻🍻
@@WMCS that's exactly what happened with my driveshaft. Thanks for the quick reply.
Not many cars with cable clutches anymore. Great video.
Do you change rear main seals etc if you find one leaking once you've took the box off?
Only Peugeot and a few Far East cars still does cable. But you notice the difference tho. Especially pulling off.
I haven’t really seen a rear main seal leaking as of yet, they don’t usually leak unless there is movement in the crankshaft. What a lot of people mistake the rear main for is the sump seal directly underneath it.
well that looked easy, like a walk in the park, .... and no rain
It was a nice repair even though it was a bit of a squeeze on top half. I still enjoyed it .,, hope you’re keeping well your end ✨🍻🍻
Hi good job mate...whats that grease you use...curious never seen anyone put grease on bell housing before guessing makes it easier to install
It’s red rubber grease. It stops oxidisation of the bolts into the thread.
@@WMCS thanks mate
what is labour cost approximately?
Hi mate, can i ask another question please, do you know what torque the flywheel bolts should be for this car, and the clutch plate bolts?
And when taking flywheel off, do you have to use new bolts when putting it back on? Or is it ok to put the old ones back in...
My rear main oil seal is leaking so will have to take flywheel off
Thx very much.
New always replace flywheel bolts.
If you send me the reg I can get you all the correct torque settings.
You’ll have to use another thread as I can’t see replies.
Who makes the manual gearbox in these cars? Is it Aisin? I've found model number ZV1 and ZV0. But no one says which company designed it.
So I have further found out the gearboxes are MF60b for the petrol version and MF70c for the diesel version. But I still do not know if it is Aisin design, or Getrag etc, or Suzuki own design etc?
a life without Fuel M18 is possible, but without any sense;-)
A life without Milwaukee would be like the dark ages without lights 😁
Hi, can i ask ur advice please..
Doing this car with a mate today, struggled getting gearbox back in, eventually it felt like it pushed through the clutch disc ok
But the bottom of the gearbox is dead flush against the engine block,got the bottom two bolts in that are next to exhaust. but at the top of gearbox theres a gap from engine block...about 1cm or just less..
Does this mean weve not got the input shaft through the clutch disc splines properly.. Or is the gap at the top ok and will close up itself when putting top gearbox bolts in and tightening up??
Thank you..
Slacken the bottom bolt a bit and push the gearbox up and do the top bolts up evenly with the lower ones.
@@WMCS thx so much for replying, its really appreciated. We back on it tomorrow.
Is red rubber grease the best grease to use for the clutch spline? Wondered what grease to buy when doing mine?
Definitely the best to use for these types of work especially on the spline. As it doesn’t oxidise and won’t allow dry rust to form which is a main cause of premature clutch wear if it binds
@@WMCS OK wasn't sure if to use moly grease.
According to you, what brand could I choose for reliability and endurance? Valeo, Luk,Blue Print, Aisin?
Exedy
Thanks for this, need to get my wife's gearbox repaired, much cheaper if I remove it.
That’s it. Saves you the labour cost of removal/installation
I am about to try and do a clutch on my Suzuki splash. However, the bracket connected to the subframe that you remove from the left side of the car. I cannot get off as somebody has snapped the bolt head but there is still enough of the bolt there to hold the bracket in place. Do I need to remove this in order to get the gearbox out or is there just enough space with it still in place?
No just the bolt
Unfortunately neither drive shaft will come out now. I have moved the subframe extension out of the way. But both driveshafts are seized. Do you think it would be possible to remove the gearbox with both driveshafts still in the gearbox?
May i know what cordless drill brand you used?
It’s a Milwaukee
Why i have small shaking (vibrating) while starting from first gear forward or in reverse without adding gas, so with 800 rpm i cant start to going smooth, i need to add a little gas (1000 rpm) to start going smooth...i was changed clutch set...fiat punto petrol 60 hp...
Maybe the flywheel is slightly warped. A good clutch kit should have taken up that vibration. What make did you use
@@WMCS LUK repset is putted...can it be some mistake of mechanik due instalation of cluch set, badly installed release bearing on fork or friction disk rotated (engine side rotated to gearbox side)...i have only those small vibration when i try to start slowly only by releasing clutch pedal without gas...maybe it need little time and driving to new clutch set adapt on old flywheel?
the cable clutch usually don't need be changed together with the clutch kit?
Not usually. Some cars has an adjustable cable then that’s advised to get replaced
@@WMCS cool, thanks . huges from brazil
You did not remove the starter? In other videos the remove the starter but to do so you have to unbolt the intake manifold.
No need. It’s as seen in the videos and very accurate to all the bolts.
@@WMCS ok thank you. Credits for you to replying so quickly. No need yet for our Nissan pixo (same car) but I can enjoy your videos. Straight to the point. Keep up the good work.
🚗🚔👍👍
Hi mate, reg no. WF14 APK
For the correct torque settings for Flywheel Bolts and Clutch Plate bolts
Thx very much
Does anyone know where the crankshaft sensor is located on this car ?
prob bottom of the belts on the otherside of the engine to the gearbox
What are spraying (min 25:10)? Brake Cleaner?
Yes it’s brake cleaner.
@@WMCS Thanks for replying!
That red stuff, is special grease resistant to high temperature?
You made an excellent video!
Would this be similar process for alto?
Similar year 2013?
Alto was a more like a swift. There’s one on the channel.
@@WMCS thank u
Any for clutch cable?
Yes. I’ve just posted one .. subscribe to get regular updates.
@@WMCS thanks
You anywhere near coventry
Yes we are.
Not a job I would have done. Like the ratchet spanners, they were not from Aldi. Ha Ha
😁✨.,, not from Aldi yet .,
Suzuki Splash, Opel Agila B, Vauxhall Agila is exactly the same car.
That’s great bit of info. Thanks for sharing ✨✨🍻
@@WMCS The way you work reminds me that I worked back in the ΄90s
in a small mobile unit of the Greek Air Force.
Can i ask please. When the gearbox is in the car is the rubber cap cover supposed to be over the gearbox Breather Hole or left off so the gearbox can breathe?
Thx very much.
It has to be put on.