@John Jerde - checked the ink and for it is working , hmm - it is a set with different sizes from 1-3mm in 0.5mm steps . I used the 2mm one. Used it while the nozzle already had a 2mm hole from the backside! so i used that one - I´m sure you have a local store which sells you such a drill bit. Happy printing and using - DM4DS - Sandor
I really like the cutting approach you're using to remove the excess, but I don't like having to pull the entire remainder through the nozzle. It seems like you have to over-size the hole so filament slightly out of spec won't jam on it, but then you'd get oversized splice points that cause jams. I have a method I'm using now (with a recent video showing it) that avoids this.
Hello, sorry for the late reply, hab horrible health problems..... I used a 2mm drill bit. That was the diameter the nozzle already had on the backside. So look what your backside nozzle diameter is and use it. Greetings Sandor - DM4DS
I just run the small spool until it runs out, and the machine pauses and tells you to load another spool. Then hit "continue". Or just load the small spool into your AMS and it will automatically continue with another spool without your intervention
@DennisDay58 are you using different style nozzles? Are they touching each other inside the splicer? Can you "feel" how the touching? There must be a reason why it is not working for you. we figure it out, I´m sure. Sandor - DM4DS
@@DM4DS yes I am using hardened steel nozzles as I switched to Revo Six noozles and gave all of my noozles to my son in law. I have just ordered some brass nooses. one of the things I found out the hard way is Don't glue the Magnets in until you have the nozzle height set as you cannot adjust with the Magnets in place.
@@DennisDay58 It should work with hardened, too. Much more difficult to drill but then , they should even last longer. The height is the main and most importend thing. If they don´t touch + ~0.5mm to "cut", it does not work. That´s why I tell this in the video. It must be little higher, so the "too much filament" can be cutted by turning....Please come back after you made one with the brass, adjusted to the right height and present us a video of it working :) Happy printing - Sandor - DM4DS
@@DennisDay58 Are the form more flat of your style nozzles or why they don´t "cut"? On the brass nozzles, after drilling, there is a sharp edge, both lining up, you have 2 sharp round knives, cutting the filament.
Why? It works perfect for me and others. so why is it worthless? Would be nice to hear your thoughts, instead just saying"worthless". Thanks Sandor - DM4DS
Hallöchen, X mal versucht, nur die Videos schauen viel weniger Leute, somit hab ich nach wenigen Videos ohne große Resonanz immer wieder ins englische gewechselt. Dann dauert es nicht lange und es kommen Kommentare dass ich deutsche Videos machen soll :) - Grüße Sandor
@@DM4DS Kenn ich, im Holzwerkerbereich gibt es auch einen TH-camr (Marius Hornberger) der zwar auch Deutscher ist, aber seinen Kanal ausschließlich auf Englisch betreibt. Da Englisch Weltsprache ist, ist die Reichweite natürlich um einiges größer. Wer kann außerhalb Deutschlands schon groß deutsch? Zum Video: ich bin gerade dabei Dein Projekt nachzubauen. Leider finde ich die Magnete beim großen Fluss nicht und werde es daher erst einmal ohne Magnet versuchen. Sieht auf jeden Fall vielversprechend aus. Diesen Filamentverbinder, den Du kurz gezeigt hattest, habe ich ebenfalls da. Großes Geheimnis bei dem ist, dass das Filament wirklich exakt gerade sein muss. Ich habe ein 3mm Messingrohr da (hatte mal 3mm Durchmesser mit 1mm Innendurchmesser) welches ich mit einem 1,75mm Bohrer aufgeborht habe. Da schiebe ich das Filament rein, lasse das kurz weich werden und wenn es kalt ist, ist es absolut gerade. Mit dieser Vorarbeit klappt es mit dem bei Am..on erhältlichen Filamentverbinder auch ganz gut. Nur das überschüssige Material rund um die Nahtstelle muss auch hier noch entfernt werden.
You can connect a short piece of filament to another spool, not two spool though.
Awesome design. You mentioned 2 drill bit sizes and the link doesn’t work. Could you please comment what size bit to use.
Thanks
@John Jerde - checked the ink and for it is working , hmm - it is a set with different sizes from 1-3mm in 0.5mm steps . I used the 2mm one. Used it while the nozzle already had a 2mm hole from the backside! so i used that one - I´m sure you have a local store which sells you such a drill bit. Happy printing and using - DM4DS - Sandor
Ah. I see. It’s unavailable I’m the USA. I’ll just find one that will work. 👍🏼
I really like the cutting approach you're using to remove the excess, but I don't like having to pull the entire remainder through the nozzle. It seems like you have to over-size the hole so filament slightly out of spec won't jam on it, but then you'd get oversized splice points that cause jams. I have a method I'm using now (with a recent video showing it) that avoids this.
If you were adding to a spool how would you take it off in the middle of a print
That´s what I said, that´s the downside of this variant. greetings Sandor - DM4DS
glad you cleaned yourself up for the video...
I join it by hand with a candle and some patience..
Melt then ends, hold them together, tidy up with some sand paper
Is the drill bit 1.60 or 1.65mm?
Hello, sorry for the late reply, hab horrible health problems.....
I used a 2mm drill bit. That was the diameter the nozzle already had on the backside. So look what your backside nozzle diameter is and use it. Greetings Sandor - DM4DS
I just run the small spool until it runs out, and the machine pauses and tells you to load another spool. Then hit "continue". Or just load the small spool into your AMS and it will automatically continue with another spool without your intervention
not everyone has an ams. or a Bambu Labs printer. there are even people who don't have runout sensors on their printer
@Bolli1983 damn that's crazy. This is the only printer I've used so I assumed it was the norm
Same problem with that splicer too, no good.
@DennisDay58 are you using different style nozzles? Are they touching each other inside the splicer? Can you "feel" how the touching? There must be a reason why it is not working for you. we figure it out, I´m sure. Sandor - DM4DS
@@DM4DS yes I am using hardened steel nozzles as I switched to Revo Six noozles and gave all of my noozles to my son in law. I have just ordered some brass nooses. one of the things I found out the hard way is Don't glue the Magnets in until you have the nozzle height set as you cannot adjust with the Magnets in place.
@@DennisDay58 It should work with hardened, too. Much more difficult to drill but then , they should even last longer. The height is the main and most importend thing. If they don´t touch + ~0.5mm to "cut", it does not work. That´s why I tell this in the video. It must be little higher, so the "too much filament" can be cutted by turning....Please come back after you made one with the brass, adjusted to the right height and present us a video of it working :) Happy printing - Sandor - DM4DS
@@DM4DS I do feel them touching as I push them together.
@@DennisDay58 Are the form more flat of your style nozzles or why they don´t "cut"? On the brass nozzles, after drilling, there is a sharp edge, both lining up, you have 2 sharp round knives, cutting the filament.
there filamenbt welder that already exist that that are much more pratical than this take a look ;)
@maddugqc6911 maybe it is me, i am too dumb to use them :) Can you show us a video using it? Thanks Sandor - DM4DS
That ‘thing’ is worthless
Why? It works perfect for me and others. so why is it worthless? Would be nice to hear your thoughts, instead just saying"worthless". Thanks Sandor - DM4DS
I think the "thing" is what you first showed and said was useless.
Biite Sprech Deutsch , Englisch ist nicht dein Ding . 😂
Hallöchen, X mal versucht, nur die Videos schauen viel weniger Leute, somit hab ich nach wenigen Videos ohne große Resonanz immer wieder ins englische gewechselt. Dann dauert es nicht lange und es kommen Kommentare dass ich deutsche Videos machen soll :) - Grüße Sandor
@@DM4DS Kenn ich, im Holzwerkerbereich gibt es auch einen TH-camr (Marius Hornberger) der zwar auch Deutscher ist, aber seinen Kanal ausschließlich auf Englisch betreibt. Da Englisch Weltsprache ist, ist die Reichweite natürlich um einiges größer. Wer kann außerhalb Deutschlands schon groß deutsch? Zum Video: ich bin gerade dabei Dein Projekt nachzubauen. Leider finde ich die Magnete beim großen Fluss nicht und werde es daher erst einmal ohne Magnet versuchen. Sieht auf jeden Fall vielversprechend aus. Diesen Filamentverbinder, den Du kurz gezeigt hattest, habe ich ebenfalls da. Großes Geheimnis bei dem ist, dass das Filament wirklich exakt gerade sein muss. Ich habe ein 3mm Messingrohr da (hatte mal 3mm Durchmesser mit 1mm Innendurchmesser) welches ich mit einem 1,75mm Bohrer aufgeborht habe. Da schiebe ich das Filament rein, lasse das kurz weich werden und wenn es kalt ist, ist es absolut gerade. Mit dieser Vorarbeit klappt es mit dem bei Am..on erhältlichen Filamentverbinder auch ganz gut. Nur das überschüssige Material rund um die Nahtstelle muss auch hier noch entfernt werden.