+Mick_Mick Yeah,manners costs the guy nothing.In too much of a hurry to impress with his swimming pools worth of 'Dr X'...Bet it would be cheaper to buy another engine block :)
I use a phosphoric acid based cleaner that they use in restaurants, so much cheaper and the concentrate is 50% Phosphoric acid 5L you can dilute it only costs about $40AUD which is cheap here but stuff is expensive in aus.
generally a gallon of that derusting liquid sells for more than $20 a gallon and there were more than 25 gallons used here, and although the stuff can be reused many times over, an engine de rust process cannot be done prior to a thorough degreasing and removal of oily residues. The latter means a hot tank, as done in machine shops, before the de-rust process, shown here, may be done. Is it worth it? Well there is at least $300-$400 of that liquid needed. If that liquid can be used to remove the rust from say, ten blocks, and considering the time of the shop to handle it is then not worth doing for less than at least $130-$150 extra for that step. again, is it worth it? Probably not to every guy having a rebuild on their hands. Think about it. Maybe it can be used on stuff more valuable than a used cheap block.
Guys it's bull shit I used it it's no better then evapo-rust u can get at Auto zone I left heavily rusted tools in the solution for a week and a half tools that were rusted for a years and it did nothing
This dude has a few screws loose. $600.00 worth of Dr.X Cleaner is insane. If I were to clean a block with this method (Which I'm Not) I'd get an inexpensive pump, like used in parts cleaning tubs, a 5ft piece of 1/4inch flexible tubing, 4 Nylon 1/4inch T's. I would relace his tank with a plastic trash can and position the block so that it stands inside the trash can on its end, not lying on its side. I would connect a section of tubing to the pumps output and place the pump next to the block. Then I would affix the T's equally arranged inside the tank, pointing at the engine block with each one connected to the pump output. I'd perform a brief test assuring that the chemical is being applied across the entire block. Finally, I would pour in only one gallon of the DR.X, place the trash can lid onto the can and just sit back and let run for an hour or two. Once finished with the cleaning, I would use the pump to pump out the Dr.X Cleaner through a filter and then back into its original container. As I said, I wouldn't do it that way. I'd rather set up an inexpensive electrolysis system using a battery charger and a plastic trash can.
Just use low concentrated muriatic acid... (muriatic acid/HCl dilluted with water 1:8 to 1:12 depends how bad/thick the rust) good for the rust but somehow safe for your hand if not prolonged exposed.
Man all these vinegar suggestions, I must be getting shit vinegar, I have tried it many times, it takes about a week to even show a slight move, I can't wait that long
@@llewvirtue861 and after 15+ uses when it's filthy, it will have barely paid for itself and done a subpar job... There is zero benefit in this product when compared to the cost.
Is your product reusable? I actually do this exact thing with EvaporRust which is a waterbase product that won't even burn the skin. I bought the 5 gallon EvaporRust from Amazon for about 75. It is reusable as many times as it doesn't get too contaminated with oil from the engine block or other parts being derusted. But let's be honest, you guys had already treated that engine block and let it rust again for several weeks or a few months. All that rust on your block was surface rust, flash rust; so of course your product was going to seem like it works quick but I don't think any one bought that claim. I too had to dip parts in the EvaporRust after it got rusted again after several months. The rust came out quick because it was just surface rust. The secret to avoid rusting again after dipping the block on rust remover is to chemically etch the block or metal parts with the concrete and metal etcher made by Klean Strip. This will prevent flash rusting for a while but I also spray the block with epoxy primer from Valspar and then I top coat it with a single stage epoxy paint also from Valspar. I spray the etching chemical on the block continuously to keep the block wet 5 minutes then I wipe it dry with clean rags. The next day I pray the epoxy primer. The following day I use a 320 grit sand paper sponge from Sherwin Williams to lightly sand the epoxy primer. Then I topcoat it with the single stage epoxy paint. Obviously I tape up the areas that are not supposed to be painted. Finally I assemble the engine. So all my bolts, nuts, brass freeze plugs, etc., are all visible and are not painted like many of these rattle can painters paint their engines with that cheap high temperature primer and paints. To go through all the trouble of dipping an engine block on a rust removing liquid is a waste of time if that work is going to be followed up with rattle can primer and paint.
Worst product i have ever seen.... it destroyed my 3000gt vr4 engine block that is extremely hard to replace, but not only that i had a bottle of Dr. X still in the Fed-ex package unopened, somehow the bottle started leaking and somehow the vapors got all over the place and everything around it started getting rusty,,, my tools, my 3d printer, some electronics... this stupid company just cost me more than 15k in damages beside stuff that i can't replace... total bs product....you have no idea how pissed off i am wish i would have video taped it but how the hell was i suppose to know that was going to happen...
Seriously? Just delete this video. Poor lighting, poor audio, poor how-to... AND you don't even show the frickin' finish? This is horrible for your reputation.
Take the motor to a machine shop and have them hot tank it. Send your girlfriend to my house. Iron American Dream on TH-cam Share it. Take a ride across the promised land. Ride a Harley.
Went to the website and it says it's 39.95 a gallon? 10% off 5 or more? Not trying to stir up any problems, but I'm pretty sure I can get the block, heads and components vatted at the engine rebuilders for less. Just saying.
O My boss had a 396 big block dipped in our steel pickling process tanks years ago, minus the lube process, , totally clean, of course we did it for him, , ( graveyard shift)
A poorly made video. Lighting, camera shake, in a hurry, bad intro, all the bad things made the product look bad. Put quality into the video and the product will look more appealing.
At $40 a gallon they just put about $500 of that crap in there. Tholse jugs look like they're at least 3 gallons apiece. Probably cheaper to have the thing hot tanked.
I noticed through out all the comments the people promoting this shit are not trying to defend there product. If you believe in what you do you defined it outher wise your a scam artist and you get called out on your bullshit
im trying to buy some but ive messaged the company and have had no reply i live in australia and cant get on to this stuff any ware and id really like to get some rust remover like this
nathan patterson this stuff is bullshit don't waste your money. Vinegar and water will do the same thing and is cheaper. They're probably out of business
Don't do it that way. $400.00 to $500.00 for the DR.X Cleaner. There are many other, far less expensive, and better ways to clean a block shown in youbube.
you, i saw that. but no worries, the block used was a bad one...and for demonstration, only to show the product at work. empty block weighs next to nothing, but if the block had extra stuff on it, then it would be a concern.
They appearing to be using a large amount of "cleaner" that likely exceeds the cost of just buying a brand new block OR having the old part professionally cleaned and media blasted. There is a failure to understand basic Economics: these so called rust removers are made of very inexpensive ingredients but are marked up by exorbitant, indeed economically irrational, amounts. People do not realize they are over paying for these solutions. You are wasting your money.
I assume this product is 85% phosphoric acid? It's cheaper than a brand-name product. He didn't mention that the core plugs should have been removed. This allows the acid to get into all the coolant galleries. The temperature of the acid will affect the time it takes to work. The hotter the acid, the faster it will work. Another thing is the acid won't work if there is too much oil or grease on the block. The block needs thorough degreasing beforehand, preferably with a steam cleaner and/or a high pressure water cleaner with detergent. Finally, choosing a quality paint to protect the freshly cleaned surface is essential. Otherwise the rusty appearance will return within a day.
Your method does work but if I ever have a motor down to the bare block it's going to be tanked at the machine shop anyway. I don't know how much the 4-5 jugs of the Dr. X costs but I don't want to have to deal with that much contaminated chemical anyway. If I was still porting heads at home that might be more of a practical use.
Save the expense, just put a quart of vinegar and 16 oz. of Molasses fill with tub with distilled water and leave for two weeks. Remove engine block from solution and clean with high pressure cleaner. Will come out like new...WARNING be prepared for a very band stink from the solution but apart from that it will work just fine. I have been cleaning rust of car parts for 25 years doing this and it has always worked without damaging parts or rubber or any alloys etc
the block went through a lot before this stage. One thing they forgot is to remove the water jacket 1/4" pipe threaded plugs on each side of the block. Too much salesmanship and obvious hesitation on apart of the dad and son (shop operators) in reciting what appears to be their predetermined lines.
haha, really? nobody else noticed the awkward handshake? 0:07
+Mick_Mick Yeah,manners costs the guy nothing.In too much of a hurry to impress with his swimming pools worth of 'Dr X'...Bet it would be cheaper to buy another engine block :)
+Bonnie its nt, it works well and is cheap ive used it and worked for the guy
Lmao that shit was brutal to watch
ImCujo I know, it was a major cringe
yeah haha
How come at the end of the video I did not see a rust free block?
Needs new video, bad. Three minutes real time of pouring liquid in to a container, and the finished result is not shown.
It would have been more impressive if it had actually removed the rust ...
this is a 10 days rusted block which citric acid or mountain dew would easily remove it
get us a 10 years old rusted block and demonstrate ... yeah
Doha Man i
I use a phosphoric acid based cleaner that they use in restaurants, so much cheaper and the concentrate is 50% Phosphoric acid 5L you can dilute it only costs about $40AUD which is cheap here but stuff is expensive in aus.
Yeah scam
I’ve always used vinegar to clean all my blocks. Never had an issue.
$560 worth of solution.
Yeah, at $40/gal, that's one expensive dip solution. I'll bet they say to toss it after one use, too, don't they?
The solution cost more than the block lol
@@ZERO_42069 not a block for this car, this car would cost like a 1000
@@MrRohanThomas u dont know what ur talking about
Before and after please?
generally a gallon of that derusting liquid sells for more than $20 a gallon and there were more than 25 gallons used here, and although the stuff can be reused many times over, an engine de rust process cannot be done prior to a thorough degreasing and removal of oily residues. The latter means a hot tank, as done in machine shops, before the de-rust process, shown here, may be done. Is it worth it? Well there is at least $300-$400 of that liquid needed. If that liquid can be used to remove the rust from say, ten blocks, and considering the time of the shop to handle it is then not worth doing for less than at least $130-$150 extra for that step. again, is it worth it? Probably not to every guy having a rebuild on their hands. Think about it. Maybe it can be used on stuff more valuable than a used cheap block.
Thx
you can do the same thing with vinegar, citrus acid, or phosphoric acid. All are cheap and available at any hardware store.
Guys it's bull shit I used it it's no better then evapo-rust u can get at Auto zone I left heavily rusted tools in the solution for a week and a half tools that were rusted for a years and it did nothing
"You can put your hand in there and wash the block ..." you never see the guy frantically running to the sink to wash his hands!
only reason he said ' i should not be doing this without gloves on,'' ... is because of rust... '' tekna shot' .
Been nice to see the final product, rather than 3 minutes of pouring it in.
lol
nah i found it entertaining
LMAO!!!!!
Hand falls off a week after the video😂
😂🤣😂
Same effect as household vinager, only twenty times more expensive
It is just vinegar.heavily acidic.
I soak mine in Vinegar and Water and it does the same thing.
You must get better vinegar than us
Oh ya, It really came out like brand new... Yep, sure did...
either this guy left that engine block in a water to rust for the sake of the video or that block was buried in a car that was filled wih dirt
This dude has a few screws loose. $600.00 worth of Dr.X Cleaner is insane. If I were to clean a block with this method (Which I'm Not) I'd get an inexpensive pump, like used in parts cleaning tubs, a 5ft piece of 1/4inch flexible tubing, 4 Nylon 1/4inch T's. I would relace his tank with a plastic trash can and position the block so that it stands inside the trash can on its end, not lying on its side. I would connect a section of tubing to the pumps output and place the pump next to the block. Then I would affix the T's equally arranged inside the tank, pointing at the engine block with each one connected to the pump output. I'd perform a brief test assuring that the chemical is being applied across the entire block. Finally, I would pour in only one gallon of the DR.X, place the trash can lid onto the can and just sit back and let run for an hour or two. Once finished with the cleaning, I would use the pump to pump out the Dr.X Cleaner through a filter and then back into its original container.
As I said, I wouldn't do it that way. I'd rather set up an inexpensive electrolysis system using a battery charger and a plastic trash can.
I used a more fiscally responsible solution too. Made a video about it. I would love your feedback if you take the time to check it out!
Just use low concentrated muriatic acid... (muriatic acid/HCl dilluted with water 1:8 to 1:12 depends how bad/thick the rust) good for the rust but somehow safe for your hand if not prolonged exposed.
use vinegar it works
use white vinegar, i used it to derust my 351 w the other day, it worked and its cheap
OR......use a diy electrolysis tank, save $400, great results.
Exactly what I do...like new !!
Yep
Got a video of how you made yours seems like a great idea looking for insight on what all goes into it
Vinegar mix with water is a lot cheaper
If you have ten years, been there done that
1:07 three men one cup
Gutorov Mike hahahaha
Oh snap..
😱😱😱
suferic acid concrete cleaner
Chevy's are like Bic lighters. When they run out of fuel you buy a new one.
Apple cider vinegar 4.00 a gallon with great results make that doctor your x
Man all these vinegar suggestions, I must be getting shit vinegar, I have tried it many times, it takes about a week to even show a slight move, I can't wait that long
That's crazy I wouldn't give that much for this when can go down to local rebuild shop and have them vat it for $25
The thing is that you can then close up that tub and use the solution over and over and over
@@llewvirtue861 and after 15+ uses when it's filthy, it will have barely paid for itself and done a subpar job... There is zero benefit in this product when compared to the cost.
Not every mechanic has access to a vat service or rebuild shop so this method is a good substitute
I don't see a brand new spanking engine block yet!
No way that stuff cleans that mess in 15 min
More like over night
Is your product reusable? I actually do this exact thing with EvaporRust which is a waterbase product that won't even burn the skin. I bought the 5 gallon EvaporRust from Amazon for about 75. It is reusable as many times as it doesn't get too contaminated with oil from the engine block or other parts being derusted. But let's be honest, you guys had already treated that engine block and let it rust again for several weeks or a few months. All that rust on your block was surface rust, flash rust; so of course your product was going to seem like it works quick but I don't think any one bought that claim. I too had to dip parts in the EvaporRust after it got rusted again after several months. The rust came out quick because it was just surface rust. The secret to avoid rusting again after dipping the block on rust remover is to chemically etch the block or metal parts with the concrete and metal etcher made by Klean Strip. This will prevent flash rusting for a while but I also spray the block with epoxy primer from Valspar and then I top coat it with a single stage epoxy paint also from Valspar. I spray the etching chemical on the block continuously to keep the block wet 5 minutes then I wipe it dry with clean rags. The next day I pray the epoxy primer. The following day I use a 320 grit sand paper sponge from Sherwin Williams to lightly sand the epoxy primer. Then I topcoat it with the single stage epoxy paint. Obviously I tape up the areas that are not supposed to be painted. Finally I assemble the engine. So all my bolts, nuts, brass freeze plugs, etc., are all visible and are not painted like many of these rattle can painters paint their engines with that cheap high temperature primer and paints. To go through all the trouble of dipping an engine block on a rust removing liquid is a waste of time if that work is going to be followed up with rattle can primer and paint.
I was feeling the same way as you. Did you happen to see my video on using only 5 gallons of evaporust to clean an old rusty block?
Worst product i have ever seen.... it destroyed my 3000gt vr4 engine block that is extremely hard to replace, but not only that i had a bottle of Dr. X still in the Fed-ex package unopened, somehow the bottle started leaking and somehow the vapors got all over the place and everything around it started getting rusty,,, my tools, my 3d printer, some electronics... this stupid company just cost me more than 15k in damages beside stuff that i can't replace... total bs product....you have no idea how pissed off i am wish i would have video taped it but how the hell was i suppose to know that was going to happen...
Seriously? Just delete this video.
Poor lighting, poor audio, poor how-to...
AND you don't even show the frickin' finish?
This is horrible for your reputation.
Take the motor to a machine shop and have them hot tank it. Send your girlfriend to my house.
Iron American Dream on TH-cam Share it. Take a ride across the promised land. Ride a Harley.
Went to the website and it says it's 39.95 a gallon? 10% off 5 or more? Not trying to stir up any problems, but I'm pretty sure I can get the block, heads and components vatted at the engine rebuilders for less. Just saying.
How about showing removing it from the tub and rinsing it off. Looks wet and rusty as the video ends.
Any reason the mains were left bolted on?
because every machine shop will scream at you if you leave the caps off. you will need a line boring to fix it if the caps aren't marked.
Classics Rule mark them, but you can figure out where they go if they aren't marked
@@classicsrule8651 pretty sure sbc’s have cast #1,2,3,4 on the caps anyways. 🤷♂️
O
My boss had a 396 big block dipped in our steel pickling process tanks years ago, minus the lube process, , totally clean, of course we did it for him, , ( graveyard shift)
A poorly made video. Lighting, camera shake, in a hurry, bad intro, all the bad things made the product look bad. Put quality into the video and the product will look more appealing.
Oxalic acid is $10 for 1lb, few table spoons per gallon of water does same thing :-)
At $40 a gallon they just put about $500 of that crap in there. Tholse jugs look like they're at least 3 gallons apiece. Probably cheaper to have the thing hot tanked.
Still did not remove the rust. What about water jackets??
Yes the water jacket is the main target to clean out. The rest is more cosmetic
Probably could buy 3 new blocks for the price of all that solution they poured in there. Ummm I'm definitely not sold!
Holly crap this is a terrible vid! Why would he leave it up! 🤔
😔🔫
What an absolute waste of time and money and empty containers!
I buy half gallon then I pay $45 total with taxs so too expensive then work fine in tiny rust not thick rust
I noticed through out all the comments the people promoting this shit are not trying to defend there product. If you believe in what you do you defined it outher wise your a scam artist and you get called out on your bullshit
ummm this could work for a rusted heater core or radiator rusted inside??? it could be nice if it works tbh
BS......too expensive per gallon to do that.
Where's the results?
Thats not new.... ive been a mechanic since 14. That engine needs to be ran over again but this time in a parts washer.
hcl muriaticacid and phosforicacid and acetic acid perfeckt ist to remove rust.
Wonder if coke would work just as good. Lol
I could not see much improvement? What a shit product...
So... Where is this brand spankin' new engine i kept hearing about?
dude on right looks like freddy roach"s twin bro. tf!!
50% vinagre e 50% agua
That $500 of chemicals.
Should be put in jail for fraud....stuff is a joke
And.... his hand fell off days later.
x'D
im trying to buy some but ive messaged the company and have had no reply i live in australia and cant get on to this stuff any ware and id really like to get some rust remover like this
nathan patterson this stuff is bullshit don't waste your money. Vinegar and water will do the same thing and is cheaper. They're probably out of business
How much does Dr X cost?
How do you dispose it properly?
You could have used half the amount by flipping the block over.
Don't do it that way. $400.00 to $500.00 for the DR.X Cleaner. There are many other, far less expensive, and better ways to clean a block shown in youbube.
is it muriatic acid/Hydrochloric acid?
lemon acid
It was apple cider vinegar.
Where did they get these donkeys ,,
Bake and shot blast is the way to go
And the point of the video was??
It is still rusty!
Nobody else saw that they lifted it by one of the main caps?!!?!?!?!!
you, i saw that. but no worries, the block used was a bad one...and for demonstration, only to show the product at work.
empty block weighs next to nothing, but if the block had extra stuff on it, then it would be a concern.
Anyone try vinegar?
I suggest using a block that isn't rusty in the first place. Did it come from a junk yard?
That didn’t prove anything you didn’t even take it out and show us I call bullshit
Hahaha its cringey
Cool shit I can buy this
phosphoric acid is cheaper. Old fashioned naval jelly and dilute it down
Samuel Mason It's called naval jelly
Ask what they use at NAPA when they clean heads. They should sell you some.
+Samuel Mason Advanced Auto or Home Depot. Home Depot is cheaper
They appearing to be using a large amount of "cleaner" that likely exceeds the cost of just buying a brand new block OR having the old part professionally cleaned and media blasted. There is a failure to understand basic Economics: these so called rust removers are made of very inexpensive ingredients but are marked up by exorbitant, indeed economically irrational, amounts. People do not realize they are over paying for these solutions. You are wasting your money.
Big bull sheet
Why don't you rather take this video down? It's really doing more damage to your product exposure than good!
I'm good tooooo
I assume this product is 85% phosphoric acid? It's cheaper than a brand-name product. He didn't mention that the core plugs should have been removed. This allows the acid to get into all the coolant galleries. The temperature of the acid will affect the time it takes to work. The hotter the acid, the faster it will work. Another thing is the acid won't work if there is too much oil or grease on the block. The block needs thorough degreasing beforehand, preferably with a steam cleaner and/or a high pressure water cleaner with detergent. Finally, choosing a quality paint to protect the freshly cleaned surface is essential. Otherwise the rusty appearance will return within a day.
Only in ohio
there ya go folks what?....it was still rusty
Sorry you've got to watch part 2 of the video to see finished product
Your method does work but if I ever have a motor down to the bare block it's going to be tanked at the machine shop anyway. I don't know how much the 4-5 jugs of the Dr. X costs but I don't want to have to deal with that much contaminated chemical anyway. If I was still porting heads at home that might be more of a practical use.
bs
Save the expense, just put a quart of vinegar and 16 oz. of Molasses fill with tub with distilled water and leave for two weeks. Remove engine block from solution and clean with high pressure cleaner. Will come out like new...WARNING be prepared for a very band stink from the solution but apart from that it will work just fine. I have been cleaning rust of car parts for 25 years doing this and it has always worked without damaging parts or rubber or any alloys etc
Lame
PART 2?
شغل امريكي
Thats like $400 in cleaner....
+Greg Burnside no its not, i work for the company its not that much at all
+warrenjohnsen124 8X$40=$320+shipping. ground=$86 so yes.. $400+ dollars in cleaner.
hmm he must have raised the prices, it didnt use to be so much
Just get some kerocen
Only 40 a gallon
So, how long is the shelf life after it's been used? Is it a one time deal? I have several blocks that need 'sweat' rust taken off.
That's just H3PO4. Phosphoric acid. Also known as concrete prep & etch sold at any big box hardware store by the gallon. LOL
Now, now. It does have a fancy label.
Hey man it's called Dr expensive for a reason why pay $5 when you could pay $50
Idk what chemicals you got in this thing but I'm sure you don't want something that eats rust absorbed into your skin
Now you'll have rust free smooth hands. The wifey will be so jealous.
Hands so smooth, you won't need the wife anymore.
Why spend money on that overpriced crap simple electrolysis is what cost of maybe 3 dollars.
This stuff cost a arm and a leg. And yes that's about 600 bucks worth of solution. Lol
the block went through a lot before this stage. One thing they forgot is to remove the water jacket 1/4" pipe threaded plugs on each side of the block. Too much salesmanship and obvious hesitation on apart of the dad and son (shop operators) in reciting what appears to be their predetermined lines.
where could I buy this stuff and will it work on a gsxr1100 motor